Potala Palace

Norbulingka

Jokhang Temple

Trepung Monastery

Barhkore Street

Sera Monastery

Mt.Namcharbawa

Ranwu Lake

Trekking beyond Everest base camp (16900 ft, 5150m) should not be attempted unless you are prepared to take the time to acclimatize properly while ascending to the higher camps. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a serious environment-related illness that can strike anyone, especially at these extreme elevations. You should be well acquainted with the symptoms of AMS and be capable of monitoring others in your group, as well as yourself, for the adverse affects that can occur on a trek such as this. Headache, nausea, vomiting, and shortness of breath are early AMS symptoms that indicate a person should halt their ascent immediately to prevent more serious complications, including death. AMS and other health-related problems are discussed in more detail in the chapter "Staying Healthy."

This adventure, which I call the Highest Trek in the World, is an incredible journey to Camp ¢¯(20800 ft, 6340m) and to the base of the North Col via the East Rongphu Glacier (also called the Rongphu Shar Glacier). Nowhere else on this planet can you hike on a trail to such a high elevation without the need for crampons, ice axes, or mountaineering skills. This eastern tributary of the main Rongphu Glacier flows through a remarkably flat valley in a great arc around the Changtse massif (24878 ft, 7583m), Everest's North Peak. Along the central crest of this glacier a wide corridor of morainal debris, known to climbers as the Serac Highway, winds safely between the towering ice pinnacles all the way up to Camp¢¯.

The East Rongphu Glacier is relatively free of crevasses and other hazards on its surface, though ice conditions and the location of the trail vary from year to year as well as throughout a single summer. Caution should always be used when traveling upon a glacier. Climbing gear may not be necessary, but common sense definitely is. If the weather deteriorates or trail conditions become unsafe, turn back and be satisfied with where you stopped. Or try again in another day or two.

A trek of this caliber is best left for a professional trekking company to organize: the food and equipment requirements are more than most people want to carry at these elevations, and arranging yaks to haul gear beyond base camp is not possible unless you can supply tents and warm clothing for the yak herders.

The best months for good walking conditions on the glacier are June, July, and August, though this is also when monsoon clouds can obscure Everest's summit for days at a time. The route up the East Rongphu Glacier is not particularly difficult to follow, with the exception of the rough terrain between Camp¢ñand the Interim Camp near Camp¢ò. To ensure proper acclimatization, I highly recommend walking up to the Rongphu base camp from Dingri or by the route over Pang La East. After reaching base camp, a total of 9 to 10 additional days, including rest days, are required to safely complete the round-trip journey to Camp¢¯ and back. At least 1 night should be spent at Dza Rongphu monastery and at least 2 nights should be spent acclimatizing at base camp. Don't just laze around during these rest days: a dayhike to higher elevations is one of the best ways to help your body adjust to the altitude. Allow a minimum of 5 days to reach Camp¢¯ from the base camp, plus 2 more days for the return trek.

The daytime temperatures on the glacier during the summer are quite mild despite the elevation, but that doesn't mean it can't get cold. Light snowfalls occur; at times it may rain. What is considered sufficient sun protection for the rest of Tibet can be harmfully inadequate here, especially if the sun is reflecting off fresh snow. Sun block should be applied frequently and dark glacier glasses are absolutely necessary. A broad-brimmed felt hat like ones the Tibetans wear is a good pre-trek investment.

The ascent to Camp¢ñfrom Everest base camp is s steep climb that initially follows the trail along the east (L) side of the main Rongphu Glacier (the beginning of this walk is described in "Rongphu Glacier Dayhike." One hour south from the glacial terminus is an elevated flat area between the ridge and the lateral moraine, suitable for pitching several tents. The trail forks here, the smaller track leading up the ridge side to the left(east) toward Camp¢ñand the East Rongphu Glacier. The larger path continues straight (south) from this camp, descending into a ravine carved by the crashing melt waters of the tributary glacier. This is the route used by climbers attempting either Everest's North Face or Changtse. Due to the difficulty of this crossing, some expeditions erect a single-cable bridge over the creek; even yaks have trouble swimming this torrent during July and August. The advance base camp for these climbs, known as Tilman's Camp or the Lake Camp, is several hours farther south in a shallow basin above the main Rongphu Glacier (18100ft, 5520m). Beyond this camp it is sometimes possible to continue across the upper part of the Rongphu Glacier to Lho La ("South Pass"; 19704ft, 6006m), with its breathtaking views overlooking the Khumbu Glacier in Nepal. Use caution, for although the glacier is relatively flat it is prone to forming crevasses.

The trail to the East Rongphu Glacier climbs quickly in a series of steep switchbacks above the turnoff at the small campsite. Although Camp¢ñcan be reached in less than 1 hour of actual walking time from here, the breaks needed to fill your lungs during the ascent can easily double this figure. Take advantage of these rest stops and enjoy the views of the Himalaya and the Rongphu Glacier's frozen waves of blue ice. The graceful, bullet-shaped summit across the glacier to the southwest is Pumori; behind this peak is Kala Pattar, a popular trekking destination for viewing Mount Everest on the Nepal side. Thirty minutes above the campsite the trail passes a tall rock cairn. A camp is located on a hill off to the right overlooking the gorge, but the traditional first camp is still another 15 minutes up the ridge.

Camp¢ñ(17900ft, 5460m) is set in a barren world of morainal hills under beautifully sculpted, yellow-orange granite cliffs. It is easy to recognize, for dozens of tent sites have been leveled throughout the rocks and boulders. The next camp is too far to reach in a single day, so to help yourself acclimatize spend the remainder of the afternoon exploring the gravelly snout of the East Rongphu Glacier, only 20 minutes beyond this camp.

The glacial terminus resembles the tailings of a huge gravel quarry, with great mounds of crushed rock and sand filling the valley floor. The outlet creek emerges from the base of these hills, though little ice is visible until farther up the valley. The trail descends to the water's edge along a cairned route, then angles to the south over the gravel hills, reaching the west (L) side of the glacier in 10 minutes. Depending on the season or whether a climbing expedition has been up this way recently, the trail across these hills can be difficult to follow and laced with dead ends where the ice has melted or collapsed. Look carefully for the small rock cairns that usually mark this route.

The trail descends from the gravel mounds onto a small mud plain beside the glacier. It then climbs from these flats into a large jumble of rocky moraine. The route is generally well marked, though it is easy to be sidetracked onto different dead ends. Keep looking for the rock cairns. The trail climbs and descends over the gravel hills, always staying above the west (L) edge of the ice. There is one particularly unstable section where small rock and gravel slides often obliterate the trail, making progress slow, especially for loaded yaks. Ninety minutes above the glacial terminus the trail climbs high onto the hills above the west (L) flank of the glacier. The large tributary ice floe entering from the left (east) is the Far East Rongphu Glacier. Directly across from it and in the middle of the main glacier is the Interim Camp (18900ft, 5760m) between Camp¢ñand ¢ò. This is a good place to spend two nights acclimatizing before advancing to Camp¢ò. Nearby, the first ice seracs, or nieve penitents, rise like white sails from the dark debris-laden surface of the glacier. (Nieve penitents, a Spanish term that means "snow nuns," is used in the Andes to describe the peaks of ice rising from the surface of glaciers, for they resemble the white-robed attire of many South American Catholic nuns.)

The Interim Camp is a 15-minute descent from the trail's highest point along these hills. A smaller path branching off to the right from the main trail was used by the British expeditions in the 1920s and '30s. It stays high on the hills and passes dangerously close to the long wall of crumbling cliffs. Stay on the large trail, descending along the right side of a yawning crevasse on a safe, well-marked trail. The campsite is located near a depression on the glacier's surface. A long gravel-covered hill rises behind this camp and continues up the center of the glacier. The hill is a good landmark, for the route to camps ¢òand¢¯follows this central spine of ice and talus. The Interim Camp is just to the right (south) of this ridge on a smaller, adjacent hill. If there are no tents visible, look for flattened tent sites with beds of straw laid over the rocks. A creek flows below the camp along the base of the glacier's central ridge, though early in the season it is usually hidden by a thick snow bridge. For trekkers who have climbed 2000 feet (610m) in two days, this Interim Camp is a well-placed rest stop. Not far from camp are views of Everest emerging above the smooth white wall of Changtse.

When the snow bridge spanning the creek is intact, the climb onto the central ridge behind this camp takes 20 minutes. By mid-to late August this bridge has often melted, exposing short but slippery inclines of ice that can be a problem to get past, especially for loaded yaks. Hunt around for an alternative access. It may be necessary to cut a few steps in the city slopes and pile up small rock platforms to help the yaks through.

The scenery from this ridge top is stunning. Huge pinnacles of ice soar as high as 50 feet (15m) above the glacier's surface along both sides of this rocky spine, resembling dozens of Sydney Opera House sailing on a choppy gray sea. The trail remains a safe distance from these icy turrets as it roller-coasters over the great heaps of gravel. At times the path becomes rather faint, though the route used by the expeditions typically follows the ridge crest and is usually marked with rock cairns. Unfortunately, candy wrappers are as good as cairns for identifying the way.

About 2 hours above the Interim Camp the central ridge line leads into a confusion of ice at the confluence with the Changtse Glacier, which enters from the right (west). Camp¢ò(19600ft, 5970m) is only 10 minutes from here, but the correct route can be difficult to find. This camp is located at the far west (L) side of the glacier, below a large cliff at the southern limit of the Changtse Glacier junction. The abundance of rusty tin cans is a sad tribute to the many expeditions that have camped here. The most historic bit of refuse in this area is an old cloth-and-rubber insulated wire that pops up now and again amongst the rocks and gravel. This is the original telephone line laid between base camp and the North Col in 1924 to keep the British climbers informed about the advance of the monsoon from India. It's not unusual to see the herders using lengths of it to tie down loads on their yaks.

Camp¢òis set in a beautiful location; glaciers large and small spill into the valley from every direction and the appropriately named Serac Highway continues to extend its unusual gravel arm through the center of the ice formations.

Depending on how your party feels, a decision must be made between moving tents up to Camp¢¯or visiting it as a dayhike and spending a second night at Camp¢ò.Camp¢¯ is another 1200 feet (370m) higher. If anyone has a rough time trying to sleep here or wakes up with a headache in the morning, the best decision would be to visit Camp¢¯and spend a second night at Camp¢ò.

The route to Camp¢òreturns to the center of the seracs from the second camp. The glacier now bends to the left (southeast) around the eastern flank of Changtse, and the trail soon ascends the largest series of hills on this part of the trek. This is a hard way to start the morning, though soon the morainal spine mellows into a gentle incline that is sometimes no more than 30 feet (9m) wide between the icy walls. Eighty minutes beyond Camp¢òis a small camp that can be recognized by its garbage. The seracs here are very close together. The infamous "Unclimbed Ridge," the Northeast Ridge of Mount Everest, can be seen at the end of the valley. ( The Northeast Ridge was finally climbed by Russell Brice and Harry Taylor in 1988. No one has yet reached the summit via a complete traverse of this ridge.)

As the glacier turns sharply to the right the seracs quickly lose most of their height. Less than 30 minutes beyond the small camp the icy pinnacles disappear. The trail along the moraine now follows a series of low gravel humps on the west (L) edge of the glacier. As if a magic spell has been cast, the rough, broken surface of the glacier transforms into a smooth, vast plain of snowy ice fields lapping onto the ridgesides and spilling over the passes in great white sheet. Nowhere else is there an area so large and flat this high. Follow the cairns (and the candy wrappers) along the gravel slopes to the top of a ridge. There are a few cleared tents sites here and several discarded oxygen bottles. The main camp is still 10 minutes farther up the valley, depending on how well your lungs are handing this climb.

Camp¢¯(20800ft, 6340m), the advance base camp for the North Col route up Mount Everest, is situated within a group of flattened gravel mounds beside the glacier. The Pinnacles, the frightening group of rock palisades that kept the Northeast Ridge unclimbed for so long, rise nearly 1 mile (1480m) straight up from this camp. Toward the west is the North Col (23182ft, 7066m), a snow-choked dip in the mountains straddling Everest's Northeast Ridge and Changtse. Most amazing of all is the ridge extending above the Pinnacles to the southwest: the striated rock summit of Everest. The top of this mountain appears phenomenally close, for it is little more than 8000 feet (2400m) higher than Camp¢¯. This is the closest nonclimbers can get to the top. With a pair of binoculars, you're almost there.

The gravel hills can be followed beside the glacier for another 40 minutes beyond Camp¢¯, passing more littered campsites along the way. The elevation is around 21200 feet (6460m) where the moraine ends at the snowfields extending from the foot of the North Col. Don't attempt to walk across the glacier unless a safe route has been previously established.

The return journey from Camp¢¯to base camp is a long walk that can be completed in 1 day. If you have the time (and enough food), spend 2 days walking out so you can enjoy the scenery and get your eyes off the ends of your boots.