|
Damzhung ("Center
of the Marsh") is an unremarkable, windblown gathering of chhang halls, shops,
and a few Chinese restaurants. The largest building in town is a multistoried
tourist hotel with few amenities.
The
walk to Nam Tsho initially follows the dirt road from Damzhung over Lagaen La.
Plan on 2 to 3 days to reach the lake and another long day of walking to arrive
at the Tashiy Do cave hermitage. Hiking along roads is usually unpleasant, but
this track is an exception: most of the traffic consists of yak herders and people
on horseback. Years ago this was the old caravan route for the salt traders of
the Jhang Thang, Tibet's great northern plateau. From May until July it is still
possible to see loaded yaks setting off on the forty-day journey across this plateau,
taking tea and other goods to remote herding settlements and returning with salt,
butter, and animal hides. The
best season for trekking in this area is late May to mid-October, though you must
be prepared at all times for wet weather, snow, and cold winds. Nam Tsho is a
very high lake (15060 ft, 4590 m), situated at the edge of the severe-weathered
Jhang Thang plateau. During July and August the monsoon rains can be quite persistent.
Also, snows of up to a foot or more can fall on the mountains during any of the
summer months, blocking the road over Lagaen La for several days at a time.
Tents and fuel
stoves are a must for this trek and most provisions should be purchased before
arriving in Damzhung or Nam Tsho Qu. Noodles, powdered milk, and a few other basics
are usually available in these towns, but don't count on finding much more. The
roadside Chinese restaurants in Damzhung will probably sell a few fresh vegetables
if you ask. |