| Except
for the Western Buddhists who come on regular pilgrimages to the home of their
spiritual leader, the Karmapa ("Man of Karma"), few trekkers have discovered the
powerful beauty of Tshurphu monastery. The sprawling ruins of this monastic complex
are set high in a tributary of the Tolung valley, just 40 miles (64 km) by road
from Lhasa. A wild and scenic trek of 3 to 4 days originates from Tshurphu, crosses
Lasaa La ("New Pass"; 17500 ft, 5330 m), then winds through a series of remote
valleys to the seldom-visited Dorjeling ani gompa. The trek ends at the Yangpachan
monastery, set in the vast Yangpachan Valley at the foot of the Nyanchhan Thanglha.
Despite its proximity to Lhasa, this sparsely populated area provides a relatively
undisturbed habitat where herds of blue sheep, Tibetan gazelle, and an occasional
fox are not uncommon sights. Tshurphu
Monastery The
grand ruins of Tshurphu monastery (14700 ft, 4480 m) stretch magnificently across
the base of a steep, scrub-covered ridge. This complex was once the seat of the
Karmapa, the incarnate spiritual head of the Zhanagpa, or "Black Hat" Karma Kargyupa
school of Buddhism. (The name is derived from the legendary black crown worn by
the Karmapa, said to be made from the hairs of a million fairies and to possess
magical powers. The crown is now stored at Rumtek monastery, in Sikkim.)
Tshurphu, one
of the many great monastic institutions established around Central Tibet's leading
religious teachers during the eleventh and twelfth centuries, was founded as a
meditational retreat circa 1187 by Dusum Kyenpa, a lama from Kham who received
his teachings from a disciple of the hermit ascetic Milarepa. Dusum Kyenpa is
now regarded as the first Karmapa, beginning a lineage of truku that continues
to this day. During the next five centuries Tshurphu grew into a great religious
center. Like most of Tibet's large monasteries, it was eventually drawn into the
political arena, leading to its destruction by Mongol armies in 1642 during a
lengthy war between rivaling noble families in U and Tsang provinces. Tshurphu
slowly rebuilt and gradually restored its status as an important Kargyupa center,
nearly a thousand monks were in residence when the Chinese army arrived in the
1950s. foreseeing the plight of Tibet, the sixteenth Karmapa fled to Sikkim with
a large retinue of disciples and many of the monastery's most important treasures.
His new seat of power is at Rumtek monastery, 25 miles (40 km) from Gangtok, Sikkim's
capital city. |