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Kanding County Sitting 2500 meters above sea level,
Kangding is cradled in a narrow gorge along the raging Zheduo River. The river's
continual rumble can be heard in its alleyways where nomads from the west come
to sell Tibetan herbal medicine, Khampa knives, traditional Tibetan garments,
and the ever popular yak butter tea. For centuries the town has held the status
of 'Gateway to Tibet' (regardless of current political boundaries) while serving
as a demographic border that separates Han China from the predominantly Tibetan
and Qiang populations to the west. like any
border town, Kangding has an interesting mix of cultures. The city's thriving
market (Da Shichang) sells blocks of Ya'an tea and electronic equipment from China's
Eastern seaboard alongside a variety of Tibetan goods like prayer flags and leather
saddles. A mosque for the growing Hui minority population and a Catholic Church
built by French missionaries in the nineteenth century stand amidst Tibetan Buddhist
temples and lamaseries. Lamasery
in Kangding The two main lamaseries, the Anjue Lamasery
and the Nanwu Lamasery, both belong to the Yellow-hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism.
Although Nanwu is a much bigger structure that houses close to 90 monks, Anjue
is older, with a history all too similar to that of many Tibetan monasteries.
First constructed in 1654 under the direction of the Dalai Lama, the lamasery
used to house 300 monks on a large plot of land in the old city's center. All
this ended during the Cultural Revolution when the entire structure was destroyed.
Now the monastery is a simple structure with a small courtyard that houses only
twenty monks. New renovations and additions, however, will be completed at the
end of this year. Paoma (Horse Racing) Mountain In
the southern edge of Kangding is Paoma Mountain (Paoma Shan), the subject of a
famous Sichuanese folksong and site of the annual 'Walking around the Mountain
Festival' (Zhuanshanjie) which takes place on the 18th day of the fourth lunar
month (May 10, 2001; May 29, 2002). This is reputedly the best time to visit Kangding
-- Tibetans from all over the region set up tents on the hillside to watch and
take part in trading, wrestling matches, tug-of-war contests, folk dancing, and
horse racing. Besides hosting this festival, Paoma Mountain offers visitors a
spectacular view of the city and the surrounding mountain ranges. On exceptionally
clear days, it is possible to see Mount Gongga (Gongga Shan), Sichuan's highest
peak (7556m), from Paoma's summit.
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