October 4 8:00 am, I Rigby Island, Tashi home eating breakfast, 8:15 am to begin my solo hiking around the lake, which originally had an appointment with a Hong Kong friend A JOE peers, because things change in the decision , and I do not want to give up, but to act alone!
I Tashi bar out to the side of the mountain, the next had a hollow climbed the opposite hillside, along the highway but OK, after Nicet Village, a small two vehicles fell into the water village, Namu and Yang family. Nicet and small Luohe Village is a small village, located in Gamla goddess Hill (also known as Lion Rock) at the foot, the more ancient, from Rigby Island, not far off, but there is no commercial Rigby Island, thick atmosphere. Small Luohe In the past, along the road turned a mountain corner, one built on the lake cove foot, single detached households, quite impressive, a little taste of courtyard buildings, is the Moso Cultural Ambassador Yang Namu two cars home, the door in front of a wooden pier, caravans to the passing tourists to boost business. I can not let them succeed.
God always liked toss me, not to mouth the village day it began to rain, lightly armed, I had no umbrella of the street under a tree shelter from the rain in the lake, when a village, dressed in dirty, rotten from the mouth of the Mount Soe aunt stood roadside Zhirang to their home to eat lunch. My stomach is not hungry, and know that rice is not quite unlikely. Rain stopped fast, take a look at the time, hurry early as possible. 10:30 to mouth the village - the site Yanyuan County, Sichuan Province, to small shops can not buy tobacco in Yunnan, deeply local Mosuo people's living conditions worse than the next door Yunnan far. Here were also very mixed, 56 big men in a small pro shop inside the canteen, there's money to come up with 50 yuan and I want to change to zero, no Dali - as I can tell it is fake money . Miserable! Mouth through the village, a large group of caravan, even the adults bring their children with strong follow me, in order to get rid of their struggle, I had to trot, with a good endurance put them away for. Business to do it, a child simply rushed to come directly to me for money, the money did not go to, also I have to fill in an ideological and moral education classes.
11:00 to a daughter, Moso country village, the road along the lake shore here, and suddenly separated from the side of the road will actually lose from the shore go straight forward. I am prepared to eat lunch then taken. Roadside Inn a family restaurant, into a point of a soup bowl of rice actually want me to 20 yuan, the boss Zhengou heart black, even more expensive than Shenzhen, but fortunately, after a meal for my boss before the line specified paths, 20 yuan meal do not mind the money. He wanted me to continue along the road while the line, this will save time and enthusiasm, and not toward the shore of Lake Road, and although they have to bypass the Caohai bridge, but more time-consuming and difficult to walk. The boss said Caohai bridge, just that it may be place names, I did not ask.
Daughter, Moso country out of the village, highway straight forward extension of the end of a boundless. Muttering all the way, I have to go very far in the end, we must spend the night in the mountains do? Wolf to eat me? (Xia Xiang, laugh at yourself) can do way along the road? Of course, not forgotten and roads on both sides of the 3322 grass cutting pig greet the children.
12:20 to the left of the area Yanyuan county, it is worn a market town, the town center there is the intersection of two road stage, as the ancient wooden pavilion attracted my attention, but dependent on a number of heterogeneous Mulou outside advertising, people turned me off. Stomach pain suddenly up in the town to look around for public toilets, in an old lady I found under the correct guidance, but the toilet of dirty rotten tortured me almost faint. The right to leave the Left Bank is not far to go Caohai dirt road, along the road almost straight away too far! The dirt road leading to Caohai muddy, difficult beyond imagination to encounter oncoming car, the mud Sixia Li splash, I would like a monkey jumping like a helter-skelter way avoidance, this time there are two riding a high first Malaysian tourists a rocking one to leisurely put me away, envy my eyes glaze over. This is why bother, I do, rent it four, five can be, who are not have no money! I do this is not looking for cheap?
After a lamasery, the door shut, it may be covered with dust for a long time, I thought go. It is not far in front of Caohai, I estimate the time and distance, in the dark at least be able to go Waterinfo to the Luohe Omura not afraid of the business. I have confidence. Clock points to 1:20, I was far away in Shenzhen, I called his wife at home to tell her own position (Shenzhen at home with a map of the lake), let her be assured.
By Caohai, suddenly aware of what is Caohai bridge, Caohai was originally a large lakes, the water deep, the water was full of green plants, a long wooden trestle on the light-shop in the lakes. Beautiful scenery. Wooden trestle is the only access road opposite the village, but the wooden bridge 2 / 3 cut off 56 meters, there is a Moso girl insisted on passing a small wooden boat to do business, a person 5 yuan. I asked the little girl why do not study, the bridge of her "deliberate" cutting the? (And she was joking) she said: "The family was poor, can not afford to read the bridge was broken by accident." I did not ask, from the broken bridge at the small wooden boat on her, over the broken bridge, after quietly forward.
Caohai bridge Some time later, they arrive at a fabric X village, the village name, I could not utter it to ask if a few dragging the nose of the child, I did not understand they have to say, asked a bigger girl, reckoned there are fifteen or sixteen years old, I still do not understand, so she wrote, she said no literacy, saying that the poor at home, reading books can not afford. Today, the second time to hear these words, heartache, heartache, heartache!
I bow to walk along the dirt road Men Men, by Miwa Village, this time and miserable, and muddy dirt road to the lake flooded some roads, and reckoned to have one foot deep, the water dirty. I tried to go around, then along the other side of the fence separated to live with the grass side of the village house to avoid the vicious dog, wearing a vegetable corn onto the mountainside to avoid a flooded road, actually around to the front of on the road. Word response ears: "There are no road ... ..."
Miwa village to village, the road is still muddy Shannan, Shannan village to village homes collapsed a good way to walk a bit, but still have to walk through a village water submerged the road, water is not deep, but also put wet shoes, but also Good shoes do not give me my disgrace,
3:00 pm to the village of homes collapsed. Two years ago, an earthquake so that the village has suffered serious losses, and enter the village, entered the eye along the sides of the post-earthquake reconstruction of new houses, the village center after the legislation of a seismic record Kebei, observation with a moment, but also around the the old village, the Baita interchange turn a half-circle, I actually forgot Zhaimao the ceremony. To go through the homes to collapse Luohe Old Village, but through the Old Village homes collapsed a little bit more difficult, several villagers were asked to go out.
From the cloth X Village, Miwa Village, Shannan village, then collapsed homes line the village all the way, I feel the living conditions of local villagers than Luohe, Rigby, after a lot of other villages, the local villagers are more afraid of Moso-sheng, a little boy , shy little girl to avoid the total me!
Out of the village homes collapsed, along the hillside path move on, 4:00 to 10000 villages, Lapu village, mountain, lake then remitted to the one, I know Luohe sight of. I went back to the boundary of Yunnan, found a mound to sit down, take a look at another of the small lake.
I found the foot of the road seems to lead to distant hillside check-in station ticket fear of unnecessary misunderstanding, I have left aside the road, down to the lake of corn, the walk through to the ferry terminal. Barbecue stall at the pier sat a while, Mosuo big sister know that I walk around the lake had come to a glass of hot tea with enthusiasm. I drank two and asked Sister Moso Island, Georgia fell into the water to inside the distance, today we must go back to Rigby Island. I thanked Mosuo eldest sister got up from the ferry terminal side of the village to pass through the checkpoint in front of the road around to move on.
5:00 pm just reached the big Luohe of Tashi Hotel. Days indicated its intention to dark. This is where the grid has more than 10 kilometers road, roadside addition to pine forest, very few signs of human habitation, occasionally a car to wear through. At this time, because of the walk round the clock, I began to pain in the ankle bones together, but did not dare to stay. Out of Luohe village, I speeded up along the lakeshore road speed. At this point, God once again to toss me - it began to rain, as if with the rains begin and end the morning of that echo, but in a very long time. No place on the road and rain jacket, rain-hat I wear, stumbled in the rain line. God! It is 6:50 Oh!
Finally saw the Rigby Island啦, walked down the bar at night Tashi 7:10, the night will be heaven and earth in a cage JANSEN, my hiking lake today, with the draw on the night to an end.
11 hours, I used 11 hours a week, Central Lugu Lake on foot, when I was excited and Rigby Island Tashi handsome guy that I only spent 11 hours on the bypass circle the lake, and he said great, that If he must take 12 hours. Today, the number of way to go in the end, I do not know, there is no calculation, but it is not important, it is important for their way along the road I am very happy, after all, few people could walk around the Lugu Lake.
Lugu Lake, beautiful as paradise, but it is hidden behind the beauty is some regret, over-exploitation (Yunnan territory) caused by environmental pollution, to retain the original (in Sichuan) also bound to the poor and backward! Lugu Lake on foot, and I have a deeper understanding.
