Introductory remarks, "Do not ask me came from my hometown in the distance. Why go wandering? Stray afar. In order to fly the birds, in order mountain streams of light flow to the vast grasslands, wandering far away, wandering ... ..."
To the idea of grassland is from San Mao's youth obsession started there. Unexpectedly, until the 28-year-old this fall, have a chance to close this piece of dream land.
Organize groups (September 29)
Qiu Qiu said by telephone, Zoige beautiful autumn grassland, you can go and see. Nobutoshi listened very excited, and immediately I hit the phone. I was at work, I heard this holiday season can go to grassland, the heart at once across the United Front Work Department of the bars and walls, and flying out.
Soon Nobutoshi sent a short message, saying that the Mission's personnel tentative exploration grassland to six people. In addition to these six individuals the two of us, naturally Dongmei, stars and their friends.
(September 30)
Morning, I was at a meeting Nobutoshi suddenly sent a message that the star's friends with a fever, I am afraid that can not go a plateau. The tickets had been bought, and we have to temporarily looking for "substitutes." I am reminded of a love to travel and university students, in the margins of the meeting sent a message to him: "Where's National Day ready to play?" I never expected him to return to the SMS, said: "I was in Tibet along the Brahmaputra and on." Hey, look Look, there are even more impatient than we are!
Happy start to the (October 1)
To catch the 7:30 train, we got up 5:30. But seeing fast 7:00, and we also carrying a rucksack over his head and standing on the high street such as a taxi. Finally arrived chadianzi stations, satellite has long been impatient. Higashiume the eve of the provisional starting to convince her friend Yan Fu joined our team, together with the National and Star mine, and our mission to gather sufficient prairie adventure six members of two men and four women, mighty set out. Yan Fu and Ray are tobai national friends, bigger than us, and we respect them all the way to "sister." Along the way, several of us complained that handsome guy straight girls are too low, sing it for his "magic weapon status" and proud of pessimists Nobutoshi only worried about the poor, saying that the road dangerous, star is Zhiwangbushang, he a man to take care of four girls, the task is too formidable!
Driving through Wenchuan, road side toilets fifty cents a passenger, I heard that to go any further will be risen to one dollar, so scared we could not even dare to drink the water. Exposed on both sides of the mountains out of sand and rocks, the mountains almost did not see green, landslides leave large traces of shocking.
Noon meal break logical County, to the extra dishes, there is fungus meat, green pepper pork, Fried scoop white children, peas sharp soup, kimchi, as well as a local specialty salad walnut flowers, do not eat half a day know what taste. Bumps more than six hours, we are hungry, even cooking a meal of soup are bubble. Star a full eat three bowls of rice was barely fill their stomachs. This lunch spent fifty dollars on the price high, while the weight is clearly insufficient.
Miyaluo fall from Li County to miyaluo are 60 kilometers away, along the way the beautiful panoramic view of autumn. The afternoon sun through the trees shed, the glaring eyes could not open too people. Birch colorful Ban Lan, dark red yellow, and hill and dale, row of trees to make dye, wanders the dark and distant hazy mountains, exceptionally enchanting. Valley scattered with Tibetan and Qiang houses, their architectural style is unique, so simple at the same and morals, sturdy. Stream from a dwarf bush sparse flow through the winding, shallow to deep, dense thrown ripples. Occasionally, a few yaks grazing leisurely contented in the stream.
The ever-changing mountain light. Originally prosaic hills everywhere, but due to the change of light suddenly structured, undulating, the metamorphosis of an endless color and Yun Zhi. The sky bright and clean, such as washing, showing films such as the water like a deep blue and light blue.
Caoyuanzhiye Che Xingzhi more than 4000 meters above sea level of Partridge Hill, we are slightly dry mouth, ringing in the ears of altitude sickness. However, as early as the plateau accumulated a lot of experience, and my heart Actually, I'm even the slightest confusion. A seat at your fingertips as if snow-capped mountains, in the plateau under the sun shown bright gold. Turn the Partridge Hill, eyes more open, grassland in front of us gradually started her pure beauty of the carcass, with a kind of reclamation had not been the original and wild.
The light slowly down the dark, the sky is becoming increasingly thick, such as the Dan-free spill of thick and heavy in hand, another wild nature itself. "Smoke in the desert straight down the long river of the yen," so the evening scene, I am afraid only of desert beyond the Great Wall and the Gobi seen bar. , Which had just fled the city lights and the hustle and bustle of the people, for the immediate desolation and the poignant and stunned, quietly immersed in the setting sun, such as blood. I suddenly understood why the Tibetans devoutly religious, is to be in this endless desolation and loneliness to seek a kind of sustenance and comfort. In this vast wilderness, in the face of the all-powerful Creator, how tiny people are helpless ah.
While the last hint of redness of the skin was broken the day and night like a black canopy enveloped the grassland. Lights illuminate the road straight ahead, it seems that lead to an unknown direction. Starry night on the vast grasslands of the far larger and hurry us, car lights in front of like bits and pieces such as the fishing boat lights, in the intractable were the darkness shining, the direction toward the red of the original county seat moved slowly, let us feel not alone.
Overnight to reach Hongyuan Hongyuan county was already 20:00, and calculate almost twelve hours sitting in the car. The car, the plateau in October cold wind has given us a Xiama Wei, this time in sub-zero temperature is estimated to have around. Wearing a two unlined garment of tobai frozen shiver, Zhirang "was to continue with."
Hongyuan county is not as we imagine, only a dirt road and a few even traveling shop. On both sides of the small shops have been closing shows signs of Tibetan here is a Tibetan. Wandering the dark streets of 3322 Tibetans, dressed in Bianbu Chu color robes, looked at us curiously strange intruder dressed group.
Watched a few street-side shops, inexpensive, can be conditions to be very bad, to rely on the four to take the air through the cold plateau shop night, think about the people terrified. We all cold and hungry and tired, dragged on any longer afraid of weak to continue, the wound and the decision to move looked it looks a bit "star" flavor of the "Red trade hotels."
To the both over sixty Triple yuan per person, paid paying back the principal, the waiter brought us turned into a hotel next to the alley, turned into the winding of the House look like a two-story old buildings, we discovered that cheated. Narrow dark room, were three false "Simmons" bristle bed, red and green do not see the cleanliness of the beds, 3 bedside lamps can be used only one and a half. TV is a temporary move from the lounge attendant them there. Bathroom dirty wet, could not bear to look into the detail. Outflow of hot water pipes inside Daoshi hot water, can be full of yellow sand and the water rust. We can only so-so on a cold water wash a moment, sneaking into the sleeping bag, in the bathroom next door, "tick tick" sound of the water to the dawn daze.
(October 2)
7:00 am, we packed luggage, ready to pack a car to Ruoergai. People here are still very strong business sense, let's van was also at home up late. Medium in the early morning wind for nearly an hour, finally found a micro-surface. Van pitifully small, after the exclusion of three individuals, and I sat in the row Dongmei, before the plug is almost one of four tall backpack almost no footrest areas, we Hen Buneng his legs carry on shoulders . If it were not for famous Vientiane Daiji Falun forest and nine first bend of the Yellow River, in such a position in the car bumps over 100 kilometers is simply inconceivable. The owner is a Tibetan, called "Wo Lo" (sound), physiognomy a bit rude, attitude is fairly good. 450 asking price, he said that afternoon can go to Ruoergai the. We were enjoying the cool shade, the Tibetan people will let us eat enough of headaches.
Early lessons we are in luck, just to catch up with the early lessons in Vientiane Temple. As early as class is probably recite verses of the class, usually early in the morning from 5:00 to do 17 o'clock, the monks to live in poverty is obvious. A 40-year-old tour guide took us into the main hall monk.
The outdoor light just enter the room, after a while they began to slowly adapt to the dark hall in the light. The air was filled with intense butter flavor, the beginning of smell, stomach suddenly there was a reaction. The number of roots deep red pillars prop up a huge big Dianding light slanting from the high roof to shed the past, we have discovered that the roof is transparent glazed tile. Hundreds of square meters large hall with no windows, the lighting during the day thanks to the roof of the natural light. We can not but admire the Tibetan architecture cleverly designed to make full use of natural resources.
Monks chanting over the sound loud and clear and highly magnetic, with poetry and music, like rhythm. There followed several hundred monks chanting, there are sixty or seventy-year-old man, there are teenage children. Robes of deep red is the color of blood, the long horn blow low voice, and the monks sing the harmony, drum, gong, in the magnificently decorated the hall echoed, convey the mystery of Tibetan culture. We are far from the corner of the hall stood, almost to hold your breath, a kind of religion and the fear of the gods looms over us so that we soon can not breathe.
A group of tourists do not know the slightest respect for other people's religious practices, regardless of guides to dissuade the monks, monks sat Muta ran the middle class to do so as early as the monks as background pictures, the quality of the poor so that we could not help but blush for them.
We lit prayer hall of the corner of the butter lamps, each representing a wish to light a candle. I never believe any gods, but in this moment, my heart is extremely devout. In the vast earth, in the face can not predict the future and the fate of drift, I prefer to believe that somewhere there is the Buddha really exist in the weak and helpless, they can have a force, there is a belief that we can trust to be able to rely on .
Out of the hall, the sun is still bright immense plateau, we seem to re-touch into the lives of the bright and real mood suddenly brightened.
Number of 17, eight naive little monk looked around the star frame on the ground gull 120 camera, interested in the full study can be conducted, star took the opportunity to hang around the neck with the Nikon camera to film this rare moment of down. Most of them probably still would not have a chance out of this vast prairie, to see the outside world. Nobutoshi monks together with a Qiyuxuanang a shadow, Ray is very envious of her sister, but also Kung urged a fourteen or fifteen-year-old monk with a small grow Meiqingmuxiu camera. Did not expect the small monk blushed refused. Lei sister can not be reconciled, but still the hand to catch him on the shoulder. According to the last photo is unable to become, and we understand This, the original of these more than 10-year-old eyes of a young nun: women are tigers.
From the first bend of the Yellow River Zoige the way to the red of the original, there's a small town called estanque. TANG Ke-known reason why is because nine of the Yellow River Po where the first bend.
We drove here, is already noon. The car, near sogcanggoin the monks on the Circuit in the ranks. A monk wearing a pair of sunglasses seems to be a significant person in charge here, he had seen a lot of our luggage, we walked up to us and said: "You can put things commissary." I have always been the behavior of the monks to solicit business very disgusted said coldly: "No, we are on her car." sunglasses of the monks did not seem to care about my lukewarm attitude is still very good to say: "on the car very, very good. "We later learned that his name was Dan Qu Gyatso, is the prayer sogcanggoin divisions, social position was the first bend of the Yellow River tourist spots in the head. We were an absolute surprise, we will return to the first bend of the Yellow River will be with this song called Dan a monk built up edge.
Front of the Yellow River is the famous first corner. From the meandering flow of the Yellow River in Gansu, Sichuan territory here with the White River confluence, to continue to eastward course. Wide flood after another curved, showing continuous s-shaped, has been extended to the horizon. The afternoon, more and more of the bright and clean blue sky, big clouds duo duo very large three-dimensional feeling to hang in the air, purple Toyama ups and downs stretching. Surrounded by a quiet, just listen to be birds and our own breathing, and we sat quietly on a hill, immersed in the Shuiguang mountains in a long time and refuse to leave.
After lunch at the Yellow River, Nobutoshi whim, want to stay to live on the night to see sunrise and sunset. We immediately expressed support, Star, and Nobutoshi volunteered to go to accommodation separately. About an hour later, Star and Nobutoshi excited to come back and say that a monk named Dan song of home, rental shops, 30 of money a person, the room is warm and clean, and warm milk to drink. We are very seductive, immediately go to "nest Luo and" the teacher talk.
Rider in mind because it has to start with the good Zoige, we changed halfway let "Wo Lo" very angry and refused to take the can, but the car the money to pay 400 yuan. On a good beginning from the red of the original 450 yuan to Ruoergai only now that two-thirds of the distance necessary to close 400 is indeed unreasonable. Can "nest Luo," the attitude of tough things that we can not cause deadlock, and had to reluctantly give up the shore of the Yellow River overnight wonderful plan to continue to drive forward.
Enjoying the cool shade, away from the Zoige there is more than one hour's drive, and we very tragic car broke down. It seems the heavens that we should bend in the Yellow River first settled here. Standing on the dusty road side, the former shop in the middle of nowhere, we can dumbfounded. Dongmei kinda glad that Zhexia Ke to the plains to find a person who lives down the slow play. May be the actual situation is not optimistic: stay here with us, grassland, is not without others may be away from our recent fears have to go a few hours; ride it, we have a large luggage and more I'm afraid there is no car dares to stop; to Braving the scorching sun plateau, weight-bearing foot into the Ruoergai county bar, and our physical strength and willpower will face a great challenge.
More than half an hour passed, car repair looks good, Nobutoshi hailed the decision and the stars so that we girls go first. Just now on the road, they also joked that cars will be other bad, if bad, had to select a tall sexy beauty school Hollywood movie plot, standing at the road central, Lulu thigh, the expense of sacrifice "Hue"; otherwise only Let Nobutoshi and Star undressed, charm with the male driver to intercept the car. Now, we have only criticized his "big mouth"'s sake, and Dong-mei is also high spirits to say Hey, the removal of the off, do not play a steady Ha!
Life for the first time a stranger waved to the free-rider, we are a bit embarrassed. Or pay for his sister, sister, and Dongmei Lei relatively brave, has taken the lead, standing on the road loess stopped flying from the car. Look Who says咱women than men? National Day to Zoige visitors come mostly from the car, see our large group of people and several large rucksacks, who is not willing to give themselves trouble, have too far away, angry and cursed our inconstancy of human relationships, people do not Ancient. Occasionally there is a local truck stop, to understand our request, pointing at the Yak Farm Transporter loaded up, shook his head, said nothing could be done.
Finally, a Santana 2000 stopped, the driver was a three-year-old husband about the side sat a young woman dressed up a bit young to be similar to me. Rear seat is only a nearly 40-year woman, were sleeping. They seem to still meet first time such a thing, and some hesitation. Dongmei and Nobutoshi not for their very careful consideration, I would open the doors of others into the go, I knew I was physically inadequate, afraid of letting you create a drag, there is no Tuirang. The back of the lady is somewhat reluctant to set aside a space, I am holding one of the largest backpack sitting inside. At this time, we were impressed that the initiative in front of another vehicle stopped, Dongmei, and Nobutoshi Mangjiao to pay her sister on the train. Can pay for her sister but firmly refused, saying his good health, to walk with everyone. Seeing well-intentioned people to stop the car waiting for Hao Bantian, and Dongmei anxious almost curse, and to pay his sister reluctantly got on.
2 car the road, leaving behind a sister, Lei, Dongmei, Star, and Nobutoshi four individuals, a broken down car and hot-tempered of the Tibetan driver "Wo Lo."
I take the car travel from Chengdu to Zoige, their Zijia fleet of four vehicles 13 individuals. Is the lead car, and driving skills are good young man Populus euphratica. That beautiful young woman, a Chongqing accent, character is very pungent, to me this strange, long is not too ugly homosexual somewhat alert, for me, but pretty far from warm and friendly. The back of Ms. Wei, I told her sister, she asked that we not come to Chengdu, the students may be our way of dress and backpacking gave them that impression. However, a lot of age can be regarded as student, I can not treat it as a compliment.
More than an hour later, allowed to gaze longingly see Ruoergai county, and finally cell phone signal. Is also concerned about the living in the vast grasslands of several brothers and sisters, I hastened to mad text messaging, called again. But the phone can not get through, text messaging and no echo. Estimated that they are on their way and did not know there is no riding in a taxi.
Ruoergai into a county, we saw a half-hour before I arrived to pay his sister stand by the roadside, looking around anxiously. I immediately asked the euphratica stopped the car, just in time to rush to them to get off of the Tao Hsieh. I can only silently in his heart a few well-meaning friends for these blessings, today's encounter, believed to be a hundred years of cultivation of fate, hoping Duo Zhenzhong wind and rain on the road.
Ruoergai realignment of approximately 40 kilometers away from the county Ruoergai flower lake, it is our plan to watch the sunrise tomorrow morning place. We consulted the rental van on the roadside the driver, saying that poor road conditions flower lake by car takes about two hours. My sister, not sure in the end should be paid Ruoergai county set its hotels and so on them, or wrap the first car, so they went to a night spent on the Ruoergai Lake. At this point it is exciting for the afternoon of 56 points, it is estimated that they would also not go 1:30, Wolia after consult decided to stay there to say.
Little town, looked very desolate, the city is only a dirt road, dusty, and people feel like in the "Spring no degree" of Beyond the Great Wall frontier. Small town where hotel and asked a few are inhabited. Tibetans to find an open "Pan State Guest House" has only a few room. Here are called "guest houses" was in fact considered at most a hostel, but the home than the red of that of the original "Red Trade Hotel" or is much easier. Although there is no separate toilet, and there are public bathroom, as well as hot water can wash. Lunch or at the first bend of the Yellow River to eat dry food, this time stomach has been cuckoo called, and would like something to eat from the bag turning point, only to find dry food is not on us. We indiscriminately washed my face, tiredness showered hit. When we sleep wake up days have been completely dark, and a look at Table: 19 o'clock before. We also began to mad a mobile phone may still fail to connect their phone. We could not help but start worrying.
Here totally unfamiliar Moreover, they are Tibetan, they stay in the grasslands four with luggage, in case what happened to how to do? A lady's imagination is rich in fear scare themselves up on his own. We had to console each other. Is already 20 o'clock, and still do not any of their news, we want to, since fear is useless, first downstairs to eat bowl filled Tian Duzi then.
Are eating noodles, my phone suddenly ring tones rang out, yes Nobutoshi calling! I am excited to pick up the phone, Nobutoshi say that they are all safe, only a few minutes walk from the town of! This fall we hung the heart of the land.
Our team has finally joined forces in the victory. They sounded very weary, even though the four-color, full Daohai emotions, but just a few hours of separation, we meet just to see their loved ones, after going through the same ordeal. Looked for a sit down after the Sichuan Museum, Nobutoshi distress who introduced me to help solve the problem when asking for Chan master. Chen master more than 40 years old, a black and red in the face filled with vicissitudes of life make him look much bigger than the actual age. He is Pixian people, the red of the original repair the road for three decades, the last to remain in the grasslands in transportation.
Our experience (Nobutoshi oral):
You have gone, for security reasons, we have decided we can no longer be separated in any case. At first, I have also been under repair with a "nesting Lo" chat, like a good relationship with him. But when we go forward to present our first paragraph, and so he repaired vehicles to catch up to pick us, "Wo Lo," the fire, and he thought we should get rid of him, and did not want to give you the money. We want to actually put into it so bad people! I Qiangyanuhuo to try to communicate with him may be the Tibetans completely unreasonable and I sing an opening he was angry. In desperation, his sister had to go by Dongmei and Ray told him he give 300, we go first paragraph, waiting for him to connect us to pay the balance. "Wo Lo," is still rudely refused, he said you can go, let's go to the full 450.
Is his car broken tired and we are living on the prairie, we do not blame him for that, he was not a trace of regret, but also justifiably want us to pay the full paragraph under the sun What kind of logic? At this time, is the master of the van, Chen strangers stopped. Master Chen proposed that he could drag us some, "Wo Lo" unceremoniously Chen master simply to drag the car Ruoergai. Probably drag a few kilometers down the road came to a road maintenance of the Road class of resident, in front of a certain slope, but Chen master board also contains a full and baggage, any further delay I am afraid a little bit difficult. Chen Tao master classes, let us hang out, and so he went over with some people Ruoergai repair. And road construction workers in remote places with better than to be much safer in the wilderness, and most importantly, there are lights, there is water to drink. "Wo Lo" very reluctantly, but we feel that this is the best approach. All we can do is only wait.
"Wo Lo," I do not know why we have so much anger, out of the car on the right came up with the Tibetan locals are not aggressive to reprove us. I am a little anxious, and this time the sky is already getting dark, and this Tibetan way of life starts at the event, "Wo Lo" to incite the local people together to deal with how we can do? They are numerous, we can not hard to. I see the Road class road maintenance workers are Han Chinese people, busy they tell the truth of our experiences to draw people worth mentioning win sympathy matter whether, if there is really any point to what we are not alone.
Our Road class Handworker shed suspense waiting, feeling like a hostage with its own characteristics. More than two hours followed by a master's car is really coming back, he brought three lorry mechanic. Mechanic check the "nest Luo," says the car can be repaired quickly, we are finally relieved. Master Chen completed a mission to the red car fled in the direction of the original. Dongmei and Ray returned to the toilet sister and found the car gone Chan master was busy, said to me: "how do you master Chen to go?" This way, I could react, the mechanic also told us Zoige the same car back, we have so much baggage, "Wo Lo," Micro-face no less than seven individuals simply sat! Chen master is gone, we really alone in! Under way in our despair, we found that the way to the dark red of the original has a bunch of car lights from us getting closer. We finally see, and is the Chan master's car! Master Chen's car actually curious coincidence to turn around and come back!
Master Chen had just left a post and remember to let mechanics take along words to Ruoergai on the transfer head. At this time we saw him almost more than even the pro-family, in any case refuse to came alive again he was gone. After difficult negotiations, "Wo Lo" finally promised to car hire sub-80 to the Chan master, let us go. Later we learned that, from the red of the original to the Ruoergai, car hire market price also 350. "Wo Lo," knocking on our 450 or so service levels.
Pan back to the state guesthouse, the room next door lived a girl suffering from a cold, there has been a serious altitude sickness. Girl lying in bed, pale to oxygen, and her partners are anxious in the side of the helpless, Dongmei, and Nobutoshi into busy to visit. This is a group of students from the Chengdu UESTC, came together out of tourism, but they have no experience of high altitude travel, even the anti-altitude sickness medicine no band. Nobutoshi Mangqu brought Tibetan Rhodiola, sub-some of them so that they immediately immerse themselves in water to drink to the girl. I took Nuodikang capsules, wait on the girl ate two and then the rest of Zheng He left them both drugs. Moved by these young people do not know how to do, only he kept saying thank you. Later, Yan-chun told me, these students is to master the train ride Chen, Chen chef for our trailer, they are still very reluctant, for fear affect their progress. I am very pleased for me to have such a group of broad-minded and good for evil friends and feel very proud of. Away from home, who is also more likely than non-event points, difficult, and sometimes someone else is helping themselves. Is believed that these young people will not leave the school to remember that today's experience, in the future journey can also reach out to those in need of help warm hands.
That night, we free up a bed, leaving behind a well-intentioned teacher Chen intends to rent his van to go tomorrow, flower lake. Chen's master Ruleiguaner the snoring, the toss of the day we fall asleep.
Flower Lake Sunrise (October 3)
Flower Lake to catch up with the sunrise, we got up 4:30. Outside the car a dark, only our headlights in the dark, staggered along the gravel path to the mountain grasslands Fuxin Zoige embarked on a flower lake. Flower Lake is said to be as beautiful as fairyland, especially in the summer, the lake clarity, wildflowers bloom, flower lake hence the name. We were not able to catch up with the best of the season, I do not know will not let us down.
Despite a serious shortage of sleep, everyone is very excited and singing along. Stars in the past on the road on a cold, sore throat, coupled with altitude sickness is simply speechless. We are very worried about the state of the photographer, as this will directly affect the photos taken effect, so that left regrets to the trip. So all the way to give him encouragement, I hope he High up as soon as possible.
Six o'clock or so, the horizon gradually reveal bright, it looks likely that thick clouds. For fear of missing the most beautiful glow, and we desperately urged Chen master speed. Saw the hazy morning mist, the grasslands of the Central a calm water surface, which presumably is to spend a lake.
Nobutoshi the first one jumped from the car, pick up the camera on a while Kuangpai, I do not know because of the cold or excitement, he shook hands kept shaking the camera. Stars have not had time frame a good tripod, the sun from the clouds jump out. Glow and haze in the autumn of grassland a brilliant golden yellow. Blue-purple sky with clouds rolling, strong winds, freezing temperatures only up and down, we are still wearing winter clothes frozen straight tremble.
From our place to get off even walk more than 100 meters of the Plank Road, to reach the lake. Waiting for the most beautiful lens, photographers from around the globe who have been here for several days Shouhou. They early on in the Plank Road occupies a favorable position, a good frame of "Zhangqiangduanpao" I fool the camera in front of their professional equipment, I am a bit ashamed. Who is filming "fans" to see my embarrassment, kindly consoled me that it does not matter as long as the King made good, "fool" the same can be拍出好照片.
Sun in the clouds looming, 10000 Xiaguang piercing the clouds, sprinkle in the calm as a mirror of the lake, not tell where the water where the skies. With the fast conversion of light, the lake can be among the twinkling of an eye out of a scene changes. Boundless expanse of blue water on top of a group of unknown birds gently skimmed the morning chill filled the air, only they are crisp and the endless tweet. Lake, a reed, which is already turning yellow and numb, can be presented under the sun has an intoxicating golden than green in summer to hand, simply have become more Yunzhi. Clear lake bottom, lush grass in the bottom gently, a gust of wind blowing, appearing calm light sparkling off the water immediately. If it were not witnessed, it is difficult to imagine vast, desolate of the Zoige of Fuxin, there will be so imbued with feminine beauty of a natural lake.
Prairie weather ever-changing, this time the empty half of the sky glow over the sky, half of it covered with dark clouds, thunder bursts. Toyama Light in the fog was almost invisible in Olivia, Lake on the other side of ranch horses in the pasture and one group leisure travel at ease. Ray Meimuqingxiu sister walk in the wood to build a berm on the front of the lens Nobutoshi out "," delicate voices melodious, panic broke the morning quiet, back and instantly have a stunning beauty.
Star wearing only a Mianshan plus a "Nikko" The Fleece coat, shivering in the cold wind howling can be covered in order not to symbolize his "professional capacity"'s Kodak photography vest, he obstinately and resolutely refused Higashiume kindly provide winter clothes, dragging cold already suffered a "Bingti", adhere to the "fight" the first line in photography. Have been too lazy to reason that in order to "dignity" are not even the life of the guy, but I am really worried about him, when you press the shutter tremor affecting the photo quality, and forced him to wear a woman of my gloves. Although reluctant to Star in every possible way, but unfortunately fail to beat me, had to make compromises in order to temporarily sacrifice what "image."
Say goodbye to the lake to spend the time, it is already 9:00 a. We sat Chen master's car, to the junction of Sichuan and Gansu, embarked Langmusi.
Find Tianzang Tai drove two hours or so, surrounded by mountains, there have been a bridge. Chen said that there is a master of Sichuan, Gansu and Qinghai provinces at the junction of the. I am the only "vegetable pigeons," did not know we have been moving in the direction that we actually have to ride from Chengdu, Gansu, could not help but pleasantly surprised, very proud.
Here is quite a well-known backpackers in the Gannan Tibetan areas of the. Into the boundary of Langmusi tickets 60 Qian 1, your too staggering. This time we travel almost entirely spent on the car rental and tickets. Our so-called Grand Canyon forests turn full circle, I can not bear to spend time on projects of these tourists, it really could not bear and a group wearing a fur coat, high heels, suits and ties together with the tourists visit these artificial scenery, and before everyone has completed half of the agreed withdrawal.
We went to Tian Zangtai Langmusi was attracted to, but maybe it is because of a religious taboo or taboo of death, many local Tibetans are all Tianzang Tai reticent about the location, which gives us the process of looking for the event to the difficulties. To tell the truth, for burial to see I am a bit timid, and could not find Tianzang Tai down Zhenggewoyi. But I was brave friends who did not attain this purpose will not give up one's posture, I have to bite the bullet, and everyone's looking for. If not what is asked from the adult's mouth, we have only had the idea of playing children. Tibetan children face a Gaoyuanhong could not withstand our Polishing rigidly applied, in the temptation of chewing gum, and eventually to us pointing direction.
We are right on the bare top of the hill, waving streamer is the place we have been looking for a Tianzang Tai. Far looked at there, think of all the legends about celestial burial, fear of the cold slowly hit. I took a deep breath to calm yourself down, and everyone began to climb upwards. Plateau unpredictable weather, one minute before the burning sun, or take the lead photo, an instant covered with dark clouds, the mountains, went so far as it began to snow. Fortunately, the weather haze lasted only a few minutes, then sunny, and really "the mountains there are four seasons, ten-mile different days." Hill is not high, it took more than an hour to board the ridge, the reason may be due to altitude, so that the height has been sufficient for us to breath in. At that time, Nobutoshi found that a group of monks on a cliff, around the fire, it seems that what the ceremony was being held.
Must be celestial burial! Nobutoshi My first reaction was raised cameras. We are a bit worried, afraid of monks was found in case violated a religious taboo, we have got me to sacrifice to the altar, it is not fun. So Nobutoshi sister hiding behind mine, separated by tens of meters distance, far shot in the past. Blue sky, the monks of the dark red robes wind Piaowu, who is a vigorous behind the peaks. Monks mouth mutter prayers, around the fire while walking in the air and throw a piece of paper printed texts. We are not out of the atmosphere nervous, clutching palms are out of sweat. But looked at for a while, but it feels a bit wrong, not only do not see the deceased, but also do not see the families of the presence of people chanting monks emotional high, a number of monks also issued a happy little laugh. Is this not a burial?
Are doubts, the ceremony was over, the monks leaving exudes a sail a sail blue smoke of the fire, step off a cliff, to us. Appears to be a misunderstanding, this is just an ordinary Jishan ceremony, we are relieved, but somewhat disappointed. Master Chen came up with a young monk cotton, want to reconfirm the Tianzang Tai position. Monk who had a friendly smile, he said Han well, it seems well-educated, he says, pointing close to another of our mountain peaks. Along the direction of his fingers, we have seen close to the Peak where there is a hillside surrounded themselves with the streamer, it seems that is there. Breeze, clouds covered the sun again, I looked at the Tian Zangtai closer, it seems to smell of death, and a great burst of cold hit, I could not help I called chills.
我最终也没有勇气去接近那个藏族人心中神秘而圣洁的地方，恐惧和疲劳让我放弃了前行。东梅、雷姐姐和延俊留下我和星，向那座山头进发。
那些生命之花（延俊口述）
走了大概二十分钟，在一片平缓的山坡上，我们看到了散落四处的塑料编织袋，我以前看过有关的资料，知道编织袋里装的是人的碎块。我怕东梅和雷姐姐不知道，一脚踩上去，就冲她们努努嘴：“那些编织袋就是……”雷姐姐瞪大了眼睛，满脸惊诧。
天葬时，人的遗体就放在山顶的天葬台上，喇嘛为死者超度后，僧人们会吹响号角，秃鹫听到这特殊的声音就会聚拢来，贪婪地享用难得的美食。藏族人相信，人死后灵魂出窍，人的肉体就像脱下的旧衣服一样，已没有任何意义。而秃鹫是罪恶的化身，人把自己的肉身奉献出来，是一种最虔诚的积德行善。对于虔诚的藏传佛教徒来说，肉身被秃鹫吃得越干净，人的灵魂就会越快得到升华。吃不完的肉体，就被斩成碎块，用编织袋装起来继续供秃鹫吞食。
在我们之前，一男一女两个“老外”已经在天葬台上逗留了很长时间了。他们围着满地的编织袋走来走去，脸上写满好奇和迷惑，男老外还不停地自言自语：“Why……Why……“那些编织袋有的用绳子系住袋口，有的袋口已经散开，有的已经空了。满地的碎石中，零星散落着红色藏袍的碎片，像一块块的血迹。几把斧头和藏刀胡乱地扔在一块木墩旁，看上去触目惊心。
死亡，就这样赤裸裸地，甚至充满残忍地呈现在我们眼前。这些连荒冢都没留下的人们，也曾经象我们一样活过、爱过，有过青春、热血和梦想。是怎样的信仰能让他们看透生前身后事，让一切就这样随风而去、不留一点痕迹？他们的亲人和爱人怀念他们的时候，又到哪里去凭吊、去诉说思念和哀伤？面对人生这样的归宿，我内心的坦然更大于恐惧，我不信奉宗教，我有的只是活着的人对死亡的敬畏与尊重。我默默地用摄像机镜头记录着这一切，刻意地回避了些特写镜头。东梅问我拍不拍照片，我不知为什么拒绝了，似乎怕惊扰了那些还没走远的魂灵。
天葬台的风很大，似乎可以吹散一切前世今生的恩恩怨怨、爱恨情仇，死去的人们抛下俗世间的一切烦忧，借着神鹰的翅膀去寻找属于他们的天堂。四周的山坡上，开满了不知名的野花，是一种娇艳的蓝色。这是在秋天草原满目的苍凉中很难见到的，我想这定是那些逝去的生命所滋养、灌溉的吧。尘归尘，土归土，源于自然，归于自然，循环往复，生生不息。生命的意义就在于这样的过程中，在尘世间留下的些许痕迹吧。
（延俊、东梅和雷姐姐走下天葬台的时候，都有些愣愣的，一副还没回过神来的样子。我远远地看着他们，突然感觉有些陌生，好像他们身上有一种森森的鬼气。）
若尔盖会议回到若尔盖，我们又到潘州宾馆投宿。与县城里的其他旅馆比较，还是这家旅店干净又便宜，难得的是还有热水供应。唯一的毛病是，这里暖瓶里的水经常是温吞吞的，洗漱间里的水却烫得要命。在这里洗过一次澡，咬牙洗了五分钟就夺命而逃，这哪里是洗澡呀，简直就是烫鸡毛。
由于下午四点才在甘肃境内吃了一碗地道的兰州拉面，和一大盘卤牛肉，仗着肚子里还有食儿，干脆连晚饭都省了，饿了就吃方便面。
晚上聚在东梅她们屋里看这两天的录像，正看得高兴，突然发现我们第二天在白河边骑马的镜头没有了，同时消失的还有我们在公路上拦车的那一段。大家都愣住了，一直负责摄像的延俊慌了神，忙把录像带都捣腾了一遍，自然毫无结果。我的心情简直可以用愤怒来形容，白河骑马的镜头倒也罢了，可公路拦车的那一段是我即兴抢拍的镜头啊！这种抢拍镜头的珍贵在于它无法重演的真实，一旦抹去了将会是永远无法弥补的损失！
延俊这才想起来，原来那天他们四人困在道班等车时，闷得发慌，就把录像放出来看。没想到看了一半，摄像机没电了，延俊就忘了把带子倒回去。可能是因为我有过当电视台记者的经历，头脑中残存的所谓“专业精神”，使我完全无法容忍摄像者这样愚蠢的错误，几乎想要冲延俊发火了。大家看我的脸色越来越难看，怕我们“夫妻反目”，连忙劝了这个劝那个。延俊像做错了事孩子，嘟囔着为自己辩解了几句，就龟缩在屋角的椅子上，低头生闷气。
按原计划，我们的若尔盖之行到今天就要结束了，四号乘车到松潘，五号返回成都。可三天的行程实在太短了，我们还没有真正领略到大草原的神奇，谁也不甘心就这样离去。我们算了一下兜里剩下的钱和胶卷，决定再回黄河第一弯去住一夜，看看落日与朝霞，以弥补二号那天的遗憾。
延俊由于工作疏忽，给大家造成了直接的精神损失，被免去摄像师职务，由我接任；付姐姐也因帐目出错，引咎辞职，由雷姐姐接任财政总监一职。这一次会议被我们称作“若尔盖会议”，有着和“遵义会议”一样的深远意义。我们戏称，这是一次拨乱反正的大会，一次转折的大会，从这次会议之后，“工农红军“一步一步走向了胜利。
丹曲和阿桑经过上次的教训，我们对藏族人有了点敬而远之的味道，延俊和星一大早去找车，特意挑了位姓肖的汉人司机。
我们在旅店里休整了一番后，上午十点出发去唐克。这位肖师傅很有经验，带我们闯过了唐克镇上的卖票点。我们这一路买了不少冤枉票，动辄六十元一张，专蒙我们这些外地的冤大头。
路上，我们遇到了一个去拉萨朝圣的老人。他在布满碎石的山路上，虔诚地用整个的身体去叩拜他的神灵，千百遍地重复着三步一拜的动作，好像永不知疲倦。没有人知道他从哪里来，他的身后留下了一条长长的痕迹。老人满头白发，脸晒成紫黑，身上的衣服很脏，看来已经走了很远的路。不知道今世什么样的苦难，让他情愿以这样的方式去祈求来生？听人说，从这里拜到拉萨要花上三年的时间。不管他能否在有生之年走到他心中的圣地，我想他的内心必定是充满安宁和快乐的吧。
回到唐克的黄河第一弯，远远地就看见丹曲和几个僧人站在路边，还是戴着他那副大墨镜。他不过三十多岁，常年高原的紫外线和风沙的作用，使他看上去比实际年龄大得多。下了车，丹曲带着我们去他的家。依山而建的这些房屋都是索格藏寺的产业，丹曲的房屋出租给游客，收入用作寺院的自养。藏族的僧侣和汉族不同，寺院的供养难以完全负担他们的生活，因而他们通常同家人住在一起。丹曲有个侄儿，叫阿桑，是个清瘦的英俊小伙子。他曾在印度留学三年，说得一口漂亮的英文。丹曲的房子不大，石块砌成的小院里，堆放着一些干草和旧家俱。靠着屋外的墙壁有一块太阳能电池板，提供夜间的照明，可以算是丹曲家中最现代化的装置了。总共三间房，进门的那一间顶多算是个过道，里屋左边一间是卧室兼厨房、客厅。屋子中间有一个烧干牛粪的藏式铁炉子，烧水、做饭和取暖都靠它了，有排气管通到屋外，保证了屋内空气流通。丹曲还酷爱拍照，屋子四壁都挂满了他的作品。
右边一间就是租给我们的客房。三张厚厚的床垫铺在地上就是床了，被盖雪白干净，柔软厚实的花毛毯是全新的，上面的商标还没来得及撕掉。靠窗有个木踏板，算是一张床。性格豪爽又热情奔放的雷姐姐一路上都吵着要睡通铺，看来今晚就可以实现了。付姐姐指着地铺对着雷姐姐和星两个未婚青年，寓意深长地说：“故事，就从这里开始。”
白河的午后安顿下来之后，我们步行去白河拍照。黄河第一弯就是白河与黄河的交汇点。现在是水枯季节，白河的水很浅，裸露的河床把白河分割成数条窄窄的河道。河水倒映着湛蓝的天，在正午太阳的照耀下，显得色彩斑斓。
我们找到一处能避风的山坡，坐下来午餐。阳光暖暖的，白杨树在风中轻轻摇曳着金黄的树叶，两头正在吃草的牦牛犊好奇地盯着我们看。星突然看见公路上一个骑着山地自行车的僧人，兴奋地冲他挥手大喊：“喂，把你的自行车给我骑一下好吗？”这是我们在草原上见到的第一辆也是唯一的一辆自行车，这个在城市里多得让人厌烦的交通工具，在这里居然如此奇货可居。那个骑车的年轻僧人可能听不懂汉话，只是友好地冲我们挥挥手，笑容如高原的阳光一样灿烂。
一位三十多岁的藏族女子带着个四岁左右的孩子，从山坡下面走过来，慢慢靠近我们。那女人脏得完全看不出模样来，头发乱如蓬草，黑紫色的脸上皱巴巴的，像个蔫茄子，使她看上去像个老妪。她好奇地站在我们面前，离我们不过几米远。在藏区我们常被当地人这样好奇地盯着看，一看就是老半天，我们都已经习惯了。她拄着根木棍，腰弯成几乎九十度，全身的重量似乎全落在在拐棍上，这是藏区的女人常见的体型，这应该是艰苦的劳作造就的畸形，不由得让人感慨，这里男人们到底承担着什么责任？东梅和付姐姐给那个孩子吃糖，藏族孩子回过头去得到了母亲的默许，才怯生生地接过去。
大家正安静地或躺或坐地在山坡上晒太阳，东梅突然唱起生日歌来，我愣了一下，真的，今天是延俊的生日，我这个做老婆的都差点忘记了！大家都反应过来，跟着拍手唱起来。延俊把自己藏在太阳镜后面，极力掩饰着激动。今天早上他们偷偷在若尔盖街头逛了半天，就为了买一把藏刀，给延俊一个惊喜。我们让延俊唱首歌，他轻轻哼起了他最喜欢的英文歌“Sailing”：“I am sailing ,I am sailing ,home again,cross the sea……”
还没等唱完，东梅哭了，延俊的声音也哽咽了。东梅、星、秋秋和延俊是十年的好朋友了，这些曾经一起醉过、笑过、快乐过、悲伤过的朋友，经过这么多年的风风雨雨还能在一起，也算是上天给我们最好的礼物了吧。我想我们会永远记得今天：风从静静的白河谷里吹来，带着草原的气息，我们热泪盈眶，为着曾经飞扬的青春和梦想，为着共同经历的寂寞和痛苦，为着那些年那些生命片段，为着风雨中彼此从不曾放开的手，我们热泪盈眶……
静静的白河午后，只有我们，和那首没唱完的歌。
黄河落霞索格藏寺后面的山坡，是观看九曲黄河第一弯落日的最佳位置。延俊和星为抢占有利地形，背着摄影器材先我们一步上山去了。山坡不算太陡，但由于没有路，走到山顶还是要花上近一个小时。等我们几个女生在山下的四川小餐馆订好晚饭再走上去，已经是夕阳西下了。
落日黄昏里的黄河第一弯，像日妆换了晚妆，有种让人惊艳的感觉。霞光透过蓝紫色的云层，一点一点慢慢渗出来，很快就映红了半边天。火烧云以落日为中心，充满张力地向四周呈现出喷薄而出的形态。天空像一副印象派的画作，色彩浓烈得令人窒息。
小小的山头汇集着十多个摄影发烧友，延俊的家用摄像机也煞有介事地混在“长枪短炮”中。傍晚安静的空气中，“喀嚓喀嚓”的按快门的脆响此起彼伏。他们中有的人为守候黄河第一弯最美的光线，已经连续三年来到这里了。
晚霞的色彩越来越浓，山顶的风很大，气温也越来越低，我们裹着防寒服互相依偎着，用体温彼此温暖，静静地坐在山坡上体味着“落霞与孤鹜齐飞，秋水共长天一色”的秋日黄昏。相识不相识的人，不时地为着光线变化的神奇而不约而同地欢呼起来。大自然毫无矫饰的美丽和生命瞬间的狂喜，可以穿过时空与地域的界限，冲破一切人与人之间的距离与隔阂，将陌生人的心在这一刻紧紧地连在一起，哪怕是萍水相逢呢，也可以感觉如此的亲近。
藏式生日Party
下山时，天已经几乎黑尽了，天边还残留着一丝绛黄色的光线。黄河岸边帐篷中透出的火光，闪动着，如点点渔火一般。
没有路灯，藏民居中传出来的灯光微弱得可怜，索格藏寺成了黑夜中的迷宫。我们深一脚浅一脚地摸黑往前走，凭着感觉找回了丹曲家。
我们邀请了丹曲和他的朋友们共进晚餐，一进门，几个穿红袍的僧人已经等候我们多时了。屋里炉火烧得旺旺的，滚烫的奶茶清香四溢，小餐馆订的菜已经摆在桌上了。担心晚饭还不够丰盛，我们拿出了自己带来的全部的肉食，雷姐姐细心地把火腿肠、牛肉干切好，盛在盘子里。延俊看来下午的兴奋劲还没过去，一激动就把自己今天过生日的事说了出来。
丹曲是个有心人，他高兴地说过生日要喝酒，还说我们汉人爱喝白酒，就和他的朋友出去弄酒去了。过了大约半小时他们才回来，除了几瓶酒之外，他们还拿着一卷哈达。几个男人笨手笨脚地躲在屋角将哈达一条一条裁开、分好，那份细致与诚心深深地打动了我们。我们这才知道，丹曲他们刚才出去，是摸黑走到几里外的寺庙的小卖部里去拿来酒和哈达招待我们。
丹曲将一条印满经文的哈达捧到延俊的面前，微笑着用不太流利的汉话说：“欢迎你和你的朋友来到若尔盖大草原。祝你的生日扎西得勒，吉祥如意。只要你有一颗虔诚的心，佛同在，幸福无边。”第一次听到这样充满宗教色彩的生日祝福，我们都很兴奋。丹曲又把一条索格藏寺两百多僧人“加敕”过的黄色的金刚结系上延俊的脖子，还有一串佛珠和一张丹曲自己拍的黄河第一弯晚霞的照片作为生日礼物。丹曲淳朴木讷地朋友们在我们这些客人面前反而显得很局促，站在一旁用谦和的笑容表达着他们用汉话难以表达的热情。托“寿星“的福，我们每个人都得到了丹曲献上的的哈达、金刚结、佛珠和照片。整个过程都很安静，我们用一颗虔诚的心接受了僧人们真挚的祝福。
大家举杯的时候，意想不到的事发生了。阿桑突然掏出身份证给我们看，说他发现今天也是他的生日！若不是身份证上清清楚楚地写着十月四日，我们无论如何也难以相信这样的巧合！丹曲很高兴，笑盈盈地对我们解释，藏族人都不太重视生日，阿桑的生日连他自己都记不清，是延俊今天过生日才提醒了他。场面一下活跃起来，大家纷纷举起酒杯向阿桑和延俊祝贺生日。细心的付姐姐为延俊准备了一碗长寿面（因为条件限制，只能用方便面代替), 他们俩便一人一口吃了起来。我们告诉阿桑过生日吃寿面是汉族的传统，代表长长久久的意思。
唱生日歌的时候，丹曲忘记了藏传佛教禁止僧人唱歌的戒律，拍手跟我们一起唱起来。东梅眼睛红了，这次若尔盖之行我才看到，这些年来一直待我们如大姐的东梅，看似坚强的外表下竟藏着一颗如此柔软的心。
我一直相信缘分。茫茫人海中，能够擦肩而过的能有几个？六百多公里的漫漫旅程，冥冥中会不会就是为着这一次相识？我们只是若尔盖草原的一个过客而已，上天居然如此慷慨地给我们安排了这样一场缘分，让我们在欢喜之际对生命充满温柔的感激。
晚饭很晚才结束，他们还在聊天，我和付姐姐撑不住先跑去洗脸。站在院子里，抬头就看见满天的繁星。高原的空气稀薄，能见度极高，感觉从来没有如此地靠近苍穹。正在惊叹的时候，一颗明亮的流星突然划破天际，坠落下来，付姐姐悄悄对着流星许了个愿。希望在这个神奇的高原之夜里，我们所有的愿望都能实现。
延俊和东梅的谈兴正浓，似懂非懂和一个叫阿旺的高僧探讨一些深奥的宗教和哲学问题，亏得人家高僧修养好，一一耐心地给予解答。丹曲汉话好，在一旁充当翻译。他们对我们的世界也感到新鲜。延俊不忍心辜负他们一双双充满渴求的眼神，忍着睡意，尽力解答他们提出的每一个问题，给他们讲现代生活的一切。延俊还鼓励阿桑好好利用自己的英语优势，去外面开创自己的天地。
夜已经很深了，丹曲家客厅的灯光一直亮到夜里两点。
丹曲的炒白菜床铺干净而松软，我和付姐姐一觉醒来，已经是上午十点多了。东梅、延俊、星和雷姐姐六点钟就起床去山顶看日出了。
外面阳光明媚，四周很安静。邻院的僧人站在墙头向远处眺望着什么，他深红色的藏袍在晨风中轻轻飘动，构成一副动人的画面。一头不知谁家的粗壮牦牛堵在院门口，歪着头，饶有兴趣地盯着我们看，黑乎乎的鼻翼“咻咻”地扇动着，带着点好奇和戒备。
丹曲向寺院告了假，让侄儿阿桑替他在小卖部值班，他带我们去参观索格藏寺。可今天天气不太好，出了一会太阳，天就突然阴下来，刮起了大风。草原的风可真厉害，狂风夹着沙石，扑面而来，刮得人几乎站都站不住。我们决定跟丹曲去小卖部坐一会儿，这是黄河第一弯唯一可以避风的地方。小卖部是索克藏寺的公有财产，出售一些廉价的小食品、日用品和纪念品之类的东西。
小卖部很小，炉火烧得旺旺的，挤满了避风的藏族人。好客的人们把火炉边最好的位置让给了我们。他们彼此都很熟悉，有一搭没一搭地用藏语交谈着，我们坐在他们中间，不但没有感到害怕，还感觉格外的安全和温暖。看来丹曲和他的朋友们的纯善完全扭转了我们一度对藏人的成见。丹曲拆开一袋小卖部里的花生请我们吃。东梅和付姐姐两个“香香嘴”看到别的游客买的新鲜黄河鱼，艳羡不已，忍不住顶着大风跑出去找打渔人。
大风早不知把渔船刮到哪里去了，两姐妹失望地回来了。午饭自然没有黄河鱼吃，丹曲把昨天晚餐的剩菜热了热，煮了一锅热气腾腾的稀饭。虽是粗茶淡饭，我们却吃得香极了。丹曲顾不得自己吃，又忙着炒了一盆大白菜给我们下饭。随着红红的干辣椒和花椒落进滚油的声音，香气迅速弥漫开来，强烈地刺激了我们的食欲。上高原以后这还是第一次吃到家常的清炒蔬菜，一盆菜很快被我们一抢而空，连一片菜叶也没剩下。丹曲自己连尝也没尝一口，全留给我们吃了。高原藏区的蔬菜很珍稀，丹曲他们平时都舍不得吃，可他看我们吃得香，执意要把剩下的最后一棵白菜也炒给我们吃，我们坚决推辞，他才作罢。
送别（十月五号）
告别的时刻终于到来了。按计划，我们今晚将回若尔盖县城住一夜，坐明天一早的班车回成都。付姐姐一直很喜欢她在藏区看到的一种夹胡须刀，临走时，丹曲将自己的送给了她。延俊见状，忙跑回我们的房间翻出他的“吉列”手动剃须刀送给丹曲。丹曲很开心，脸上露出憨憨的笑容。
当我们把120元住宿费递到丹曲手中时，丹曲突然不好意思起来，好象他做了什么对不起朋友的事，捏着那几张钱，也不知道如何是好。他，很局促不安地微笑着解释说，床上的用品全是寺庙花钱买的，所以不得不按规定收费，如果是他自己家的，他绝对不会收我们的钱。我们忙告诉他，这是我们自愿为寺庙尽的一点心意，请他千万不用客气。正是丹曲身上诚挚和淳朴的品质，使我们与他如此投缘。
下午两点，丹曲替我们叫的车来了。阿桑和他的朋友们抢着帮我们把行李搬上面包车。临上车前，延俊把他自己戴的棒球帽送给了阿桑作为纪念。我们同丹曲和阿桑有个约定，明年五月我们会再来若尔盖，那时阿桑会带着我们去他草原深处的家，和他游牧民的父母一起，带我们去策马扬鞭，放牧牛羊……
汽车扬起尘土，索格藏寺在我们身后越来越远。我们在十月的风中轻轻地挥别，生怕惊碎了这里原始的宁静。我梦中的草原啊，待到野花烂漫、绿草萋萋的季节，我们会再回来。耳畔又响起那支永恒的旋律，“不要问我从哪里来，我的故乡在远方，为什么流浪，流浪远方……”
我们就要回到来时的方向，可却为什么总感觉将梦留在了这里？
我们已经飞过，而天空没有痕迹。
后记回成都后，我们收到丹曲从红原打来的长途电话，说我们走后，若尔盖的旅游淡季就随之而来了。他收到了我们寄去的照片和信件，说很怀念和我们在一起的日子，希望我们明年一定再去若尔盖，再去九曲黄河第一弯。五月的草原很美，他和阿桑会等着我们……
