My honeymoon trip to Ganzi
In April, on the marriage of the tourism program and I considered his wife for some time, but not able to determine down. When I saw several articles on the Internet rice Cheng Sichuan Ganzi Aden natural beauty articles and pictures, I am arbitrarily made a decision to go to Inagi Aden. It's so let me longing, and rolling hills, wide pastures, gurgling streams of water, more importantly, where there are well-known Tibetan mountain adjacent to the beginning of Russia's Inagi God peak - "Say Green Day Song Gongbu Gongga "This is regarded as holy mountains of the three Tibetan snow-capped mountains. "Read Green Day Song Gongbu Gongga" in Tibetan language means "the snow does not protect the law of the three holy mountains sacred", which is located in the center of Aden nature reserve, this three snow-capped mountains are Xiannai Ri, Yangmai Yong, Xianuoduoji, peak names according to legend for V up to puncture the seal: North Peak Xiannai Ri, which means Guanyin Bodhisattva, elevation 6032 meters, the southern peak Yangmai Yong, meaning Manjusri, elevation 5958 meters, Dongfeng Summer Nuoduo Ji, meaning Vajrapani, elevation 5958 meters in the world, ranked 11th in the Holy Land of Buddhism 24. "Benevolent Leshan", of course, pleased to go.
There are two routes to Daocheng to choose from, one from Sichuan, Yunnan, Zhongdian, north through the towns and to the Inagi, then there is the walk from the west, Chengdu, Sichuan Sichuan-Tibet line (318 State Road) via Kangding and Yajiang, in Litang to the South folding to Inagi. I decided to go to Chengdu, from Chengdu to the Inagi. To Chengdu, I began to contact fellow, as one would like to know the Internet go to User - hellhammer. hellhammer is a tall, handsome young man, very love of mountain climbing sports, chatting with the atmosphere is very harmonious, I know that our journey will be very happy.
In April, has not got to the tourist season, from Chengdu to Inagi non-stop bus has not yet opened, we can only buy long-distance tickets Kangding, from Kangding traveled to Inagi. I am extremely excited about sitting on the bus, like a holding popsicles happy singing children. I have the right front seat are two Tibetan monks, one dressed in yellow clothes sitting inside seemed tired, the other sat near my seat on the side of Sight to me from time to time, probably my excitement aroused his curiosity. Chengdu to go out into the ya car speed, and have a Tianquan soon to cross the Erlang Mountain Tunnel. Erlang Mountain Tunnel through the principle of time-sharing to take a day, from Chengdu, Kangding bound car adopted after six o'clock in the afternoon. Our car 10:30 departure from Chengdu New South Gate Bus Station, to the Ya'an break to eat lunch there almost an hour, continue to move forward less than four minutes the car stopped. I see a lot of cars are parked in front, which is waiting for the passage of Erlang Mountain Tunnel. It is said that there is no reconciliation before the Erlang Mountain Tunnel, all the cars have to drive through over the Erlang Shan, read a lot about Erlang article, know it with high mountains, steep slope, bending urgent. I remember Yu Chunshun's book put it into a roll-over described the casualties of the dangerous road accidents. But now this lonely journey do not think that there are so dangerous, since the National Road construction standards are high, the road is very flat.
Into the car through the tunnel there is a long time, I put his wife to stay in the car, walk down their own. In the course of a walk, I also met those two monks, and they walk down. Of religious interest and I chatted about their days, so I am surprised that the clothes of the nun who turned out to be Yellow River VIII, Mary Deng Living Buddha, I respect mood arises spontaneously, as early as heard of Tibetan Buddhism a lot of Living Buddha, Living Buddha, and many of the high attainments wander everywhere, did not expect the first day I went to Daocheng encountered such a monk, really feel lucky no words to form, I feel that my luck will continue.
Wait until the car finally passed the time, a lot of cars rushed to launch, like more than the car in front, losing no time to rush to the destination. Our car is also accelerating, the narrow mountain road, beyond a lot of cars. After a Erlang Mountain Tunnel, I feel that if they have entered another world, and clearly felt that the whole sky are not the same, and the sky bluer, clouds whiter, much of the mountains are hidden in the clouds, the only shows a small cusp. Pointing hellhammer the distance a small mountain told me, that is the highest peak in Sichuan Province - Gongga Mountain. I saw a white snow-capped mountains towering among the many peaks, then high above, this is the king of Shu. According to legend, it is still difficult to climb than Mount Everest, one of the peaks, the number of climbers who want to conquer it are buried in his arms. Heard that the top can be seen in the Erlang Mountain Gongga picture, but after the repair of the Erlang Mountain Tunnel on the very few people have such a treat.
Gradually become narrow road a lot, but we still kept the driver of the overtaking other vehicles, the hands to do is click one's tongue the sweat, she said she felt like driving the wheels as if vacant, scary too fast the car will be turned go. This fear is not redundant, 318 State Road is notoriously accident-prone section of the car turned down for the driver to see here, to hear too much, but if something goes wrong such an incident, even the relief efforts are difficult to implement. Come here to really feel the "difficult roads of Shu extremely difficult for" mood. I have also silently in his heart, said: Wife Yeah, you come here with me a honeymoon wronged you.
Gradually the black days down the car a lot of people have been asleep. After all, who often pass by the people, the beauty of the window is too commonplace, and its innocently staring out the window of time might as well lose sleep a nap. Passed Luding, more dark days, and the car began to rough up and down, the original in Kangding and the section of the road between Luding not yet repaired, roads are very poor. Car bumps the first stop took us to the terminus - Kangding. I looked down to see my watch, it is already half-past nine in the evening. We direct traffic at the station hostels stay there, the price is 20 yuan a bed, tomorrow morning would also like to ride the bus to go Inagi. Comparing the room fairly clean, or at least better than I imagined some, sheets and quilt cover is a new wash.
After dinner, we began to stroll in the small town. Kangding, Ganzi Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province is indeed the capital of which goes to a 22 o'clock number, there are many shops do not close, it makes me very unique. There are many characteristics of monopoly Tibetan goods shops, doing very fine. Local people told us that if you want to buy in Sichuan Tibetan characteristics of commodities, Kangding must be the first choice, because it stores up here, most complete variety. Went to the other one on the road, next to a river. Stopped to listen to the voice of the river, looked up its sights, top of the head above the blue sky is black, eyes are a big mountain, this river is flowing at the foot of this big mountain, Kangding City, it is in several of the surrounding mountains into , including the famous Pao Mashan, as Kangding love song sung in the "Happy Valley, the hills a Yo-Yo-Yo cloud, end to end Yo-Yo's shining city of Kangding Yo," Regrettably, however, at night, can not see yo cloud.
5:30 the next morning, bright days have not yet got up. Grooming, I packed my things, and our car 6:15 start in the car we met a tourist to Inagi the "Lone Ranger" - Xiao Li, our team increased to four. Kangding everywhere in the morning a fresh taste, slightly cold air makes the spirit of the particularly well. Roadside hut or a dark one, the sky suffused with deep blue, bright crescent of lying idly on the roof, behind it are Paoma Shan smooth contours. Either saw this beautiful scenery, I would think that such a view can be seen only in paintings do. From Kangding to Inagi are mostly long-distance car Tibetans, dressed tourists like us is like rare animals. Sitting next to me, a guy with a strange vision Kham look at us, looks not a little dark face, it seems curious, but also seems to be confused. I am a friendly nod to him and come up with our way to eat chocolate and to share with him that he was readily received, and showed his smile. After a mountain of Kangding to all. From Kangding to Litang to climb four mountains, 4298 meters above sea level, respectively folded mountains, 4412 meters above sea level Temple of Gore Mountain, elevation 4659 meters of the scissors curved mountain, 4718 meters above sea level Kara shan. As long as looked out the window at any time to see snow-capped mountains. Blue sky, big duo clouds silhouetted against the snow-capped mountains were especially elegant. On the road most of the time mobile phones have no signal, I feel like an isolated, only to have the signal slowly around town, you can SMS and family报平安clockwork.
Yajiang stopped the car to eat lunch, we have no special discomfort. Although the climb all the mountains over 4000 meters above sea level, but it is only Yajiang County, more than 2000 meters, for those of us Zheng Dangnian young man is no big deal. Eaten lunch, car continued moving forward, there will be 12 Tibetans scattered on the road house, roadside grassland, valley sometimes see a few yaks grazing. The back of a guy start puts Kham Tibetan characteristics of folk songs, musical melodies full of small cars, adds a touch of joy to the journey atmosphere. Climbed over the last one, after snow-capped mountains, in front of the road there is a similar arch Beijing the same building, above the words "city of Litang in world," we came to Litang county, car maintenance in here, and then leaving to the State Road 318 South towards Daocheng of. I Cong Juli go down, I feel a kind of the feeling of walking on cotton, walking as if to fall, I realized that the plateau had already begun to respond. Litang County, more than 4000 meters above sea level, where oxygen in the air is said to contain only flat in the air oxygen content 40-50%, people will walk asthma Shi Shi. I tried to run a few steps, do a little bit difficult, not Paobu Dong, but felt a bit dizzy head.
Litang county car out I knew, from the arguments to the Inagi city are dirt roads. This section is very terrible, bumpy road to say the least every other section of a road construction would have dug the big ditch, because there often snow-capped mountains of the melting of snow in a small stream, so construction of drainage ditches on the road. This is the most horrible I have walked the road, perhaps after the national highway will be repaired here, but in reconciliation, I would like to go this section of track of you that ask you to do a good job must be fully prepared, if the motion sickness, then is best not to come out of Britain will have internal organs. This section has very little crosses, is a typical plateau topography. Here is indeed sparsely populated, take tens of miles on the road have not encountered a pedestrian, and occasionally a few sparrows flying, foraging, as well as the black eagle as a bird, a broad, between heaven and earth if only they happy free lives. There is a way which is quite a bit characteristics, stretching tens of miles of the plateau are a variety of large stones, large small, square of the round, there are many colors. Some stones have a house so much. I really do not know that this stone come from. In fact, the scenery is beautiful the way, but sitting in this bumpy bus, enjoy the scenery did not mind a little, and only quick thinking mind is to reach the destination, leave this damn car. In this way a clear reaction to the altitude, it is a headache, as if the same head along with a straitjacket. Wife uncomfortable sitting next to me, looking like she was suffering, I am extremely distressed, and constantly reassure her: soon to come, a strong point. As the traffic reasons, we drove the car very slowly, from Litang to Inagi approximately 150 kilometers of road, the car drove for a full six or seven hours, the time when we arrived inagi had been almost 22:00 o'clock. From the foot out of the car Daocheng of the land, I feel a kind of new lease of life, I really have some doubts about why to this weird places honeymoon. Inagi, according to Ancient records, the Qing Dynasty Emperor Kuang Hsu had ordered the implementation of rice in this, "Inagi," hence the name, there I wish the success of Italian rice. I think certainly the Qing Dynasty did not show the traffic developed, in the circumstances Bashansheshui here to grow rice, then the person was so quite a lot.
In this journey there is a car from Tianjin to photograph old comrades - old Guo, he decided to go the same way that we go to Aden, these young people, so we increased the ranks of five. Came to the famous hotel Daocheng - Aden communities, we began to contact Aden things go tomorrow, car rental. Aden Nature Reserve, there is the county seat away from Inagi more than 100 kilometers away, this section of track there is no long-distance car, only to go rental. There are many Daocheng can rent a jeep, unified management, the price can be discussed, as our team rented a jeep is the most accounts, the old Guo sat in the copilot position, we have four young men crowded behind. Fortunately, we have four very slender, sitting pretty comfortable.
The United States and the United States of slept. Morning, we rented a car on time to pick us hit the road, the driver is a Tibetan boy named Buciu. Similarly, the road from the Inagi to Aden are also dirt road. However, does not seem to like the bumpy road yesterday, after all, gone through the test yesterday, we already have prepared, but also comfortable to rest one night this lonely journey feeling exceptionally relaxed, his wife has also returned to its former vitality.
Here was a complete mess of sky blue, clouds drifted across as if on top of your head, snow-capped mountains, grasslands, yaks, as well as each plant the idea attracted me. Heard that before coming here must take the full film, because there is not a one of the photo camera, but a roll of a roll of the photo. Old Guo is a special trip to photograph landscapes, and his huge bag installed four years of professional camera. We stop walking every walk near where we could not help but stop and shoot, Buciu Daoshi to great lengths to stop to take pictures at any time to meet our requirements. At noon arrived at the Geneva lunch. After a day-watt, the car began winding around a mountain. Inagi county is 3200 meters above sea level, and we want to go to Aden is more than 4000 meters above sea level. The way I asked Xiao-Li: Do you have any reaction to high altitudes? He was contemptuous look at me: "Is it true that there is no reaction to high altitudes who do? Heads are Tengsi of." We were amused to laugh, there seems to Bicibici to deal with altitude sickness the best way to alleviate a word : Ren. The car continued to walk forward, a big snow-capped mountains receding into the past, I finally see its true face: that is, Xiannai Ri! It is like a fairy quietly sitting there, I can clearly identify his arm, his arm, his demeanor. No wonder the Tibetans will see it as a holy mountains, it gives the impression that too shocked.
17:00 minutes to a destination - Long-long dam, from the Long-long dam to Chonggu Si was a mountain, to embark on their own to go, if not want to go from the scenic area management office if you can rent horses, old Guo rented a horse pack luggage, his package is too big, too heavy. We decided to go their to join Chonggu Si. The streams along the way have a sound to accompany us. Mountain is very steep, walking on the plateau itself is very strenuous, not to mention we are carrying heavy baggage. As yet the tourist season, where few people, apart from us, no one disturb the quiet here. About an hour away, and finally to the Chonggu Si, I almost cried out of excitement. Chonggu Si in Aden is well known, and because it is situated at the foot of the only temple in the holy mountains. I think this temple incense must be very strong in a long time ago, but a little lonely in the past some time had. Now Chonggu Si devastation everywhere, and only one intact courtyard, Living Buddha in the courtyard north of the upper house, a housekeeper cooking monastery life, there are two small zaba chanting.
Chonggu Si into the small hospital feel that way until the exertion of sitting there puffing kick into gear. Chonggu Si, there are a group of cock and a beautiful old cat, rest when the rooster and the old cat from time to time in passing with the rooster are always hostile eyes stare at us to see, it would only old cat is actually very gentle and kind, I stroked its hair, it obedient to my Tuibian rub rub to go. Old Guo, Xiao Li, hellhammer reached Chonggu Si, respectively. Rest a bit, the old housekeeper, and two small Zaba began to prepare dinner, we also brought out their own food and eat with them.
Night Chonggu Si overnight. The conditions here are poor, we live in a house without beds, capped with a plastic sheeting on the ground, above covered with a thin layer of cotton-padded mattress is our place to sleep. Room is probably sleep more than a dozen individuals, all of them to lie down side by side, a side by side. My wife also took out hellhammer bring sleeping bags, bedding clean than many of the temple, old Guo, and Xiao-Li did not bring sleeping bags, only a makeshift. Chonggu Si Xian Nairi located in the foot, across the woods to see the outline of Xian Nairi. East Xianuoduoji also revealed the sharp peaks, only the Yang Maiyong not see, so tomorrow we go to Luorongniuchang be able to see it. The evening, the sky full of stars, even though only a curved crescent, can be surrounded by the bright moonlight to illuminate like a day, the stars of light is also very bright, so many stars in the sky, as if asking for a can off How many pieces, there is a galaxy floating in the air in Beijing, I had never seen such a beautiful night sky. Sleep time, everyone appeared in reaction to high altitudes, was even more severe than during the day. Fortunately, we do not have insomnia, or suffer from the pain already gone to sleep. In the dream I saw a way to meet the Buddha, I am a devout kneeling in front of him, he prayed for my safe journey.
Slept, feeling whole body is full of vitality, last night's discomfort disappeared. Mountains, especially the fresh morning air, feeling the wind in their faces are full of whole body cold. Days gradually whiten the sun began to shine in Xian Nairi's Peak, the mountains shining with dazzling light snow. Within a short while, the whole Xiannai Ri are bathed in the sun, the reflecting Can-golden, like a luminous Shuoshuo Jinshan. 8:30 am, we have some of the horses came, and everyone happily go Luorongniuchang Sheung. The cattle uniquely positioned, located in between the three holy mountains, water abundant pasture rich. The way we ran into a team to turn the Tibetan mountains, the two experienced forty to fifty-year-old Han dynasty with a team of Tibetan women and children, some children still nurse was holding her mother to turn Kamiyama. Tibetan religious tradition has taken a turn Kamiyama, a lifetime to study at least once a Green Day Song Gongbu Gongga Mt pilgrimage is a long-cherished wish of every Tibetan is said to switch to an equivalent of 100 million Mani concept of merit. Follow their footsteps to move forward, to more than 10 kilometers away Luorongniuchang actually took less than two hours.
In Luorongniuchang, we and the transfer of the Tibetan mountains separated, we are here for lunch. Eaten lunch, I and my wife decided to go to sea and colored sea of milk. Along the ranch to move forward, I have become impossible to separate Old and rely on to identify the direction of the surrounding landscape. Xian Nairi, Xianuoduoji, Yang Maiyong around the three holy mountains around me, the sun reflected through the snow becomes very glaring. Luorongniuchang is the best place to see Yang Maiyong, it is a positive face of our line of sight does not want to see if it will not work, sharp peaks, like a natural pyramid. My wife did not people lead the way, and they asked the direction of the Haizi the set out. There are many yaks grazing on the road, tells us proudly wagged his tail. There are many pristine prairie stream, which is the best natural drinking yak were. Through sun exposure, streams are suffused with green color, is very good-looking. Blue sky, white clouds, snow-capped mountains, pastures, streams, in order to stay here, the scenery natural and spent a lot of film.
Of us will know that milk is far from the sea in April of milk is also covered in a thick sea of snow, look at the past one white. We do not go near to, but much appreciated for a long time. From Milk Sea to colored sea mountain is difficult to walk on the road there are a lot of melting snow and ice without ballast. Efforts forward, reached the song 9 Zhaga, said Yang Maiyong where the snow line can be seen in northern Tibet, Shambhala kingdom of God, laid-off cypress, with music a long time Zhaga God can wash away the personal store of springs dirty the objects, begging the gods song 9 Xi ugly law-enforcement protection. Also going up for a while and saw a sign with the words "sacrifice rock", where I feel good from the mountain and close, as if one could touch the same as asking for. Three in the afternoon, did not dare to go any further, I fear that they will not have time to down the mountain. My wife retrace their steps back, encountered hellhammer and Xiao Li, the two of them had decided to spend the night in the Luorongniuchang. I bent back Chonggu Si, so an appointment the next day Chonggu Si collection.
Ben Chong Gusi from Luorongniuchang back, I feel really good long section of track. An appointment with me and his wife stopped after every 15 minutes rest. Two Luorongniuchang encountered on their way down the mountain from the Tibetan, I will know that this is a buttered tea to drink at noon to our people, a grandmother with her little granddaughter. I bring out chocolate and beef jerky to that little girl, grandmother quickly thanks, and her Chinese is very bad, a lot to do not understand. We four became a fellow traveler, grandmother walking chanting, has been sent back to Chong Gusi us.
Old Guo decided to go to Long-long dam, where he spent the night shooting people, Chonggu Si-ri, leaving only two people to me and his wife, I think quiet a lot. I like Chong Gusi night, distant and tranquil. Despite the poor conditions here, but it can satisfy a person's desire for primitive life. I tried to carry water to the temple, to the stove where Tian Chai to help them to do something impossible to do live in the city. Also face a small stream, in the courtyard of those beautiful cock tease. Temple there is no electricity, wife and I spent two days here on a good day live in poverty.
May be too tired, and I feel has always been a big sleep light, two small Zaba had already started chanting. After breakfast, I and my wife in the Chonggu Si around a walk. This temple is really worn out, I found the house we lived paste plastic sheeting windows are broken, and no wonder always feel a small breeze came in the night. Temple next to a number of Tibetan workers in the construction of wooden huts, and so after the huts built, and visitors will no longer live in the Chonggu Si inside, but to live in a newly built wooden huts. To see us coming, the Tibetans is very warm invites us into the huts inside, come up with dried meat and yak butter tea hospitality. Although squatter huts built a very crude, but much more comfortable than Chonggu Si should be. My wife sat in the fire hearth health, while eating meat and drank yak butter tea, very pleasant.
Ten in the morning and more Buddha came forward to ask us a smile Have you been to pearl harbor, we answer: not yet. Buddha proposes to take us to the pearl harbor, speaking guide walked us to the mountains. We are naturally pleased to go, I really feel flattered. Chonggu Si along a path from the mountains, walking about half an hour to the sea pearls. Pearl harbor in Xian Nairi next to the lake it is not milk the sea is also covered with the snow, but a clear green lake Wang. I guess Xian Nairi the melting of snow in a beautiful pearl sea. Xian Nairi illuminates a green lake, pearl sea was like a mirror, wind appearing to the surface of the water ripples. Pearl Sea is the last one we plan to tour destination, about an hour, we returned to Chonggu Si, packed up and ready to come down, old Guo Long-long dam has been waiting for us. Buciu drove his jeep to pick us. To leave the life of a two-day Chonggu Si, looking at gradually away from the holy mountains, my heart full of memories here, bit by bit. I would like to come back here, waiting for me when the dirt road may have been revised into a flat asphalt road, living in wooden huts to tourists will be repaired, there will be more comfortable conditions for tourists to come here close to nature, feel the snow-capped mountains of the magnificent mountain and solemn.
Back to Chengdu on the way down the snow hill 318 State Road, blanketed by a Su-wrap. When leaving Chonggu Si said to be snow on the living Buddha, and Buddha's prediction really come true, I once again feel the unique plateau climate.
When in a car once again turn the Erlang mountain tunnel, we left with the mystery of the Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan, but also the end of my two-week honeymoon trip. Back to the modernization of Chengdu, I think everything was fine like a dream, but I really do not want in a dream, wake up sleepy, breathing the air where the natural and feel where the simplicity of folk customs. I know that my and their lives are completely different, but it is this difference will attract so many people Bashansheshui to enjoy the atmosphere there, and feel the atmosphere there. In Chengdu, some nights I do sleep, constantly recalled all the things I went through this road bit by bit into my mind was full of equipment, each piece in a flash before my eyes. Finally, I smiled and fell asleep in a dream, I seem to have returned and that a mysterious land, as if they dreamed of on the road encounters the Living Buddha, he was still kind of looked at me then, as if praying for me , and then turned towards it a part of his land, towards that distant place ... ...
