I grew up close to the Wonders of exploration interest in maintaining an incurable, and that two feathers from time to time also I am deeply moved. I always miss an opportunity to attempt a variety of literature found in their tracks. Such a needless effort continued for many years, until the sophomore year, in Mianyang, a brochure introducing the first time I saw "White Horse" and the title, but attracted me is the book description, "White Horse" and who heads is hooked up on two white feathers, they live in Mianyang Jiuzhaigou Pingwu the mountains near the northwest corner of ----" ah --- Cut!!!! I served ME, finally found you, and if the sea surface The tip of the iceberg. From then on, I aspire to that place to become a "paradise," Yahoo's site, "White Horse" and become my most frequently searched for words, I have thus accumulated a certain amount of information. But the more we learn, the more want to know what was going on. I stubbornly believed: there is no investigation, no right to speak.
In April the spring time, a fortuitous opportunity to contribute to my "personal self-study trip to the White Horse." I'm like a fish into the water again, like excitement, full maintained high morale. My carry-on items include: satchel (from bags to replace), a fool cameras, binoculars, maps, travel cap and wearing a ski jacket. Before his departure, this would like to invite two associates, but in my under all sorts of rendering, they are still unconvinced, stern refusal. Start making some of my frustration, rather than imagined scenery.
Good morning from the minibus ride to the Mianyang Deyang, from Mianyang, China and Pakistan to take Pingwu, 168 km, essentially the mountain bumps powerful. Car stop-go, a short ride up and down many a mountain, a very spicy sauce taste Han Yan, with a lot of the goods. Drivers, and they all seemed familiar, I was surprised. 4:00 pm to Ping Wu, a small town, there is no new construction, are three, four stories tall old buildings, very common in mountain counties. There is a Hoonji city is said to be modeled on the pattern of the construction of the Forbidden City, there are 500 years of history, the national heritage conservation units, only 10 yuan tickets too expensive, and not willing to go in, at the door according to a few images, the right to commemorate the day morning, it began to rain Lin Lin, the distant mountains being shrouded in a hazy. Inquiries, from the county to the Baima Baima Tibetan-populated village 50 kilometers, and unreasonable bus, and only rented van to the local. And a surname Ho glasses chatting with the driver, he was looking for a person to the White Horse were purely a long-time dream for many years, said they could not believe, and later said that incomprehensible, because the mountains in the White Horse were known there were no nice , why bother to run to the mountains. He master asking price 150 yuan, and I had empty pockets, counter-offer only one-third of asking price and finally actually deal is that I was secretly grateful.
Into the mountains after a mountain ride along the way, into the large bag of goods to Sierra Leone like a small van canned. Chat, a smoking old man who casually said that he is a white horse. Wow thiophene! I really wanted to sing "ONLY YOU!" Worn out shoes in fruitless searching, even in this canned food inside and close contact with the first time the White Horse! Jiao Yang Botta old man, 60 years old, in the Baima Tibetan villages, "the text to do" (do not know what organization the first time I heard of) work, retired. Respectfully handed him a "Hongmei" cigarettes, the old man and I chatted about the Baima people. Baima People who claim to be descendants of the pre-Qin clan, the "Historical Records" as the certificate, the existing population of more than 5,000 people, mainly distributed in Pingwu of White Horse and the Mongolian gazelle, veneer, wood block a few Tibetan village near the Three Gorges and the grass, Do not angle and Wen County, Gansu has a small amount of the distribution. Baima people are now vested in Tibetan, known as the "Baima Tibet," but they have their own language, common Chinese characters, in dress clothes, habits, religious beliefs, psychological characteristics with the Tibetans are very different. In 1980, Sichuan Nationalities Research Institute has published a "White Horse is a discussion on the case of ethnic Tibetans," a formal discussion on this issue, the famous anthropologist Fei Xiaotong, Mr. On the issue of national identification, the first one to raise is the White Horse person's clan is a problem. Young old man said that they were the White Horse to the Central Committee's request to become an independent nation has been for many years, but so far inconclusive. In my strong suggestion, Young talked about the old man has quite proud of the white horse, then, it sounds strange, but not like the Tibetan, eyes closed listening to thought people speak Cantonese in Guangdong. White Horse Village on the way to go inlay Mang Lin Tsui, the endlessly rising peaks, dense virgin forests to protect very well, fir, spruce, red birch, dotted with shrubs and wildflowers in the Rain in the Mist under the form of the gorgeous mountain forests世界. Noon to reach the White Horse Village. Zhai Men is a newly built, the doors there are two cement made of feathers, is a sign of White Horse were different from the world. Into the stockade, far Mulou saw a hillside, it is a place to live for generations, the White Horse. My heart said, "I come, Baima people." Strangely enough, I do not feel excited, but a quiet, like smoke rising slowly drizzle. I am an outsider, one with a curiosity to explore into this paradise, and even at the moment, for the White Horse, I as much as a trace of guilt. Hidden in the mountains for generations among the madding crowd of White Horse were willing to face me to explore those.
Stockade little hillside, there are 100 to households make up a river called the wins from the zhaiqian streams flow. Whitehorse homes with wood-based, sub-bottom layers, the lower grazing animals, the upper living people, on top covered with gray tiles. Most of the old houses in the valley where the surrounding flat terrain, there are some new homes being built, said to be preparing to engage in the development of tourism after the reception. I was a little Sese feeling. Perhaps the reason is due to rain, stone walkways are very quiet and very few from time to time there are several more cows is called from a wooden block came downstairs. I took my camera into the stockade alone, quietly, try not to say anything. Road is very narrow stone walkways are steep, and some mud, almost slipped several times. Occasionally, one or two white horse who will be sitting at home doing housework front, it gives me an opportunity to see them up close. Regardless of gender and age, they all wore the same plate, like a small white cap, the edge of the formation of lotus leaf crepe, crowns the side of the chips in two white pheasant feathers fluttering in the wind, great style. Shu Cheng dozens of girls hair root pigtail, then beaten up a large braided pigtail, plates in the head. Women's costumes are very bright, with red, yellow, green, blue, black and colored woven into a linen shirt, black linen woven into a skirt, and lined with red-green skirts and hand-woven belt. Man was wearing a white gown, long and knees, Xie Jin deduction, tied a red long belt, and some like the Mongolian robes.
I brought the camera to give them photographs, but they seemed not interested in very shy, one can see me give the camera to go away, or turned his back towards me. So most of my photos are long-term or a profile shot, is regrettable. The only one facing such a white horse from her mother. Mother sat Mulou two-story, the look of casual, face expressionless, wearing clothes very old and do not see the original color has faded head feathers, such as Mongolia died. At that time I was downstairs from a wood through, attention focused on the foot of the mud next to the upstairs suddenly there was a slight moving, he shocked me. I looked up an old woman sitting in its own upstairs, woodenly looked at me, mouth mutter prayers. I subconsciously raise their cameras, she did not escape, not the least bit curious. I looked at her, and we have no facial expressions, it is so depending on the right. But I'm sure, my thoughts and feelings at this time complicated than she. from what I found her to pick up the camera, press the shutter, and then leave, she did not move, we did look at me. Perhaps she had never left the over the stockade, had never been out of the mountains, had never lived such a dull life of the original, never seen the traffic rolling, people coming and going, and never passed them, like, but she remains indifferent in the face of my break persons, and her unceremoniously on the film set in Georgia. Perhaps this photo of her will be circulated in the distance, and therefore has been known around the world. However, she did not think about these, she is still sitting there, mouth mutter prayers . I finally realized, perhaps it is because of that generation of talent will have a white horse Shangri-la, live a pastoral life.
Rain is still coming, listening to the stockade to be a Liangsheng masi. I quietly away, taking away a heart filled with tranquility.
From the White Horse Village is 40 kilometers away go down to where China's first giant panda nature reserves protected areas --- Wanglang. Where the original forest has never been left Mang extraordinary footprints, national treasure, where giant pandas to survive, to contend from the Lok. Beyond that where walking is the famous Jiuzhaigou scenic spot ---. It is said that because of White Horse Village is located 9 ring, but also because of its mysterious ethnic customs, will serve as a tourist area to be developed. In this regard, I do not know is happy is a worry. Baima People is the open-minded, Zouchudashan;, or the continuation of their ancestors for thousands of insular life, I look forward to the right answer.
Attachment: "Tourism is not entirely self-service manual"
I.1). By bus from Chengdu to Mianyang (expressway), fare about 30 yuan.
2). By bus from Chengdu to Deyang (expressway) fare 15.5 yuan; Deyang, Mianyang by car (highway), fare 9 yuan.
3). Said that passenger traffic north of the city center of Chengdu to Pingwu car (not available).
2. Mianyang terminal: Mianyang by car to the flat-wu, 168 km, charges 25.5 yuan, about 4 hours.
3. Pingwu no shuttle to the Baima Tibetan township. In the "Pingjiang Road Monument" near the van can be chartered to. Ping Wu - Baima Tibetan village, 55 km, package purchase price of about 150 yuan, about two hours.
4. Baima Tibetan village - Wanglang Nature Reserve, about 40 kilometers road to go bad.
5. Baima Tibetan villages (Wang Pa Chu) --- Jiuzhaigou, in the nine loops.
6. Pingwu City, cheap accommodation, bus stops next to a fuel company's guest houses. Single 10 yuan / person, a TV, fan. Free bath is a shower. Baima zhaili accommodation more expensive, about 50 yuan / person.
7. Baima Tibetan Township, more than 2,000 meters above sea level, the lower the temperature required to prepare a thin sweater, rain gear.
8. Pingwu town has a Porcelain Tower of Nanjing, known as "mountain palace", is worth a visit.
Li Zhengyu .2001 May 13 at the West China diaries attached by Address: Huaxiyitai School West Building (if issued Department is requested real name, thank you!)
