Because of the rain, passing mountainside Department Lake-Taiwan, we did not see the beautiful Lugu Lake, the whole of a vast expanse of whiteness, there are clouds, fog, rain, but also lake.
In the Lugu Lake I bought expensive tickets for the visit, the Shen master hundreds of times to bring us to the village of Lake fell into the water, finally drove the car into the village house compound. Along the way, Shen master has told us a lot about the legendary story of Moso and Moso Jia Zuoke a reminder to a number of considerations. With regard to the custom of Mosuo people go pro, his vivid descriptions, explanations hear us fascinated, he said that all call Assia girl here, boy are Jiao A column, Assia 18-year-old, the night can not live at home, only a person to stay away from the village hillside repair a woodshed independent living, if she took a fancy to which A column in the evening, when she was dancing Guozhuang give him a very obvious secret codes, so it will go to midnight A column wooden huts of her rendezvous with her, until Assia pregnancy gave birth to a child in order to move back home to live at the same time to achieve its rightful place of women and respect. Outsiders do not know who the father of the child, as long as Assia understand his inner self, where tourists can only ask the mother of a child who must not asked the child's father is. Mosuo people are matrilineal society, each family, in addition to his mother and brothers and sisters, up is a grandmother, great-grandmother, women's status is paramount. There is no father in this title, the highest position among men only uncle, but also come to find a place to sleep at night because of family beds are all women.
Mosuo people do not split the habit, so an ordinary people often have dozens of mouth, we stay at the village house is like that. Since it is a daughter of the country, I imagine the mayor must be a very powerful old Assia, in fact, the village head is a middle-aged man, was the only visited the village in Beijing, seen the world of the characters, the reason can be nominated for the village, according to Shen master's explanation because he was the time when the A column, was very courageous, to address a number of disputes between villages, he can call people in the village who go out with the neighboring villages, gang war and achieve victory, so the current village head must go to him. Although expensive for a village long, but the home of the highest standing, but it is his elderly mother and uncle. When we seek shelter from the rain when his family and did not see the mayor himself, warmly received us, was his sister, sisters, and their tall are high, the plain face of melon seeds. Later I learned that the reason why a master Shen pulled up brings us home village, because the sister village, there is one of his old lover, he sent tourists come every year to use the opportunity to go the way the pro - a back, this is something.
In fact, the village fell into the water has been developed quite a travel size, every family occupies a large courtyard, central courtyard has a caress people's old building, facing the lake is almost two, three-story wooden structure of buildings, both viewing platform is room. The village's most powerful family, his home village, fell into the water Menlian is only a four-story building, is clearly the high ground of the village. Our rooms on the third floor, bordered by a lake clean up the room was far greater than we imagined to be clean, and even equipped with a 25-inch color TV. Shen master did not live with us, he said that after the floor has his private room (in fact there should be a village and sisters who live in places).
Simple settled, Shen master that come greet us, let us follow him into a village home, the old house sit. The old dark house, in addition to the roof ventilation windows, four weeks would not see any window. House in the wall of the ground, there is a burning fireplace, an elderly old woman was sitting cross-legged Huo Tangbian anaphoric with firewood, to see us coming, she stood up smiling Yaogen greet us. She has more than 70 years old, slender bones of the body looks tough enough, the line is clear and could not help but imagine the faces of her young years, when she is definitely the best beauty here, and I find out I quietly Master Shen speculation, he did not answer, just smiled to me out of the thumb. Elderly people greeted us politely to kick down, slowly turned out of the room, while, she gives us a client to a health sunflower seeds, melon seeds down, she went out again, while another client into a fruit, with a smile on the We have before us, with gestures to indicate that we're welcome, Shen chef said it was just fresh off the tree bonus is a local specialty fruit, also have this season. I taste a few, shaped like hawthorn, apple flavor rather being.
Grilled with a warm fireplace, and we looked at the furnishings from the room, everything looked very simple. Behind the old woman had a very old-enclosed bed, but also the old house only a bed, Shen chef told us that that is the most distinguished family, the best wooden bed, a woman's own sleep, and if she died by the uncle to sleep. Above the fireplace there are many pine shelves, Shen chef said it was hanging smoked fish used in the past, the lake, there are a lot of big fish every year to play a lot of leftovers on the smoke hanging in the fireplace on a dry preservation, was later Sichuanese over-fishing lake on the other side, electricity Ma, medication deep-fried, and made the lake is now only some small fish shrimp, smoked fish home furnishings shelving will become idle in.
Are chatting, suddenly from the outside came an uncle, presumably this is the village chief's uncle, indeed, uncle, calmly sat down cross-legged on the seat belonged to him (at that location is that it must not touch the outsiders). Uncle is very talkative, very happy to share with us in Chinese, but fortunately there is Shen master the side as an interpreter, otherwise none of us did not understand his vague words. Uncle one up just shout across the Sichuanese to eliminate light gave the fish the lake, and bitter Mosuo people now have no good fish and hospitality to guests from afar. Afo heard they come from the island of Taiwan uncle's spirits suddenly higher up, he said that he had been a young man at the Xichang KMT soldiers, and later many of his relatives and friends who went to Taiwan with Chiang Kai-they have a lot of who is still alive. He also told us that Mr. Jiang Xichang eat the sprouts in particular, he came to Taiwan after the planes had also devoted to Xichang air bean sprouts in the past. For the elderly is very politically minded, he said that Taiwan and mainland China, just like brothers should not be split. Curiously, the elderly also referred to Japan, that Japan had also it is our Chinese, Japanese, originally migrated from mainland China in the past, the old man said he was the ancestors of these words are his mouth down.
But for mayor's sister, cried over our dinner, we still have to talk with the uncle. To leave the old house, we came to a large village house kitchen. Meals are on the table gracefully, and clearly admitted village house guests this evening with several dial. Arrangements for our dinner table, soup pots, already pushed to the front a Caidie, Zhuojiao also arrayed two pottery jars, one can tell it is installed inside the Mosuo people Homebrew wine, see, today's Dinner was very rich. Shen chef reach for a jar, give us a man down a bowl of wine, imagine killing a tiger hero Wu Song Jing Yanggang three bowls in the post, but the proud, I am Duan Qiwan up is a big mouth who wants to get that wine actually spicy I am straight tongue, thinking this is certainly more than 60 degrees Shochu, my other non-alcoholics were obviously good enough for sufficient. Everyone says not to drink spirits so, so Shen chef Youji we gain another jars of rice wine, this wine but the degree is too low, but also mixed with Yigu very strong smell of smoke, into the throat of the It feels very strange moment, A Fu, Shixun they said, it is a good wine to drink, a bowl of a bowl next to actually Heliaohaoji bowl.
For me, this dinner is truly tastes better, is very pale basin of the soup boil. Small basin, which there are dozens of fish, are two fingers wide and a long fish that can not give you the name, a bit like our old home out of a small river carp melon seeds, the village chief of a sister said that this is lugu the lake are now able to catch the biggest fish. Tang bitter, slightly fishy smell that is obviously very bad pick up these fish, and good soup boil was very strong, but it is absolutely fresh authentic, and soon, we would bottomed soup pot.
Dishes on the table is already very rich, and could be the kitchen, there have also been fresh stir-fry the tables to, when an appearance and dress is very simple for us girls Duanlai Yi plate of scrambled eggs, I hasten to politely right She said: "dish is too rich, and we have enough, please stop for us Tiancai of." and that simple girl listened to me, actually laughed at me: "This is the last one dish, we have the kitchen has no other dishes. "
So everyone had laughed. . .
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