Memorable line of his son three-Yunnan-Guizhou
Xin Jie a long time the "Shangri-La" dream, Xin Wang 98 years, admitted to university and I have promised to take him to the clouds, your play. 99 year, Cheng Wei to Xiamen, conversation, invited me to go to Yunnan and commitment to provide shuttle bus trip to Shangri-La finalized. Had intended to take place early in July, but I went in June Panjin, work delayed until mid-July to get out, returning later on to arrange Liuzheng Yang Xia graduated from the respondent, has been busy at the end of it after finishing all the procedures, bid farewell to sunny, the "Shangri-La "The dream finally come true. After returning Ha always felt some of the Yunnan-Guizhou-line enough, making use of summer travels spare time writing articles, Ctrip has recently become a member of the old text will be posted this to share with netizens.
July 30, 1999 Xiamen Airlines (15:30 flight) delayed takeoff, 18:00 Wujiaba more to arrive at the Kunming airport. Cheng Wei happen is a meeting in Kunming, by the way with his friend Yujing Li went to the airport, and two children take the risk of Santana, Cheng Wei and I have a ride from the airport directly to the famous bridge to open to the garden restaurant, from Yujing Li Please eaten Bridge Rice Vermicelli (while watching folk dance). During the meeting agreed that our three-day arrangements in Queensland: 31-day tour Expo, August 1 Tour Shilin, August 2 tour scenic Dianchi Lake and Western Hills. Yu is responsible for the city by car, Cheng Wei on August 2 will be sent to a Mitsubishi Jeep, Queensland, made a special trip to take us to go to northwest Yunnan tourism. After dinner, Cheng arranged for us to live in provincial chemical training center, standard room 200 yuan / day. Room with two beds and a ground floor shops, Xin Wang readily selected ground floor. Cheng farewell, we get in touch with the Shan Chen, "fight" to her house and saw the husband of super-Dian Chen Shan.
July 31 morning, Miss Yang Kai-Yu Jingli arranged Santana sent us watching the "99 Kunming World Horticultural Exposition." Expo-called "gardening around the world is the outcome, including the China Pavilion, the International Museum, Museum of Man and Nature, Science and Technology Museum, greenhouse five venues, In addition, there are 34 national exhibition park, 30 foreign exhibition garden." However, it is did not come to the door already is drawing huge crowds, as if some are busy temple, as is the crowd noise after marrying, exquisite hard to find, so we have a "well-known hard to break" feeling. In fact, there is only a few domestic exhibition show garden, a butterfly museum (with a variety of live butterflies flying everywhere), and greenhouse worth a visit, and other attractions (especially foreign Hall) is "abuse of the line charge number", in which the United States Pavilion just a fast food restaurant selling fried chicken. Three sons are not too many tourists as possible to find some place to take pictures in the hall eating tropical fruit in Thailand, in Sri Lanka with the Sri Lankan State Museum for lunch at the French Pavilion taste of the French ice cream (table tennis great ice cream sold 10 yuan), the at about four o'clock in the afternoon from the garden. When we go out to see the large number of "taxi", with cell phones do not have to take notice Young, on its own "fight" back to residence.
As early as August 1, Miss Yang to take us to the Stone Forest, due to start late, about 11 points before that, Young stay in the outside, our own admission. Stone Forest is packed, but the chance encounter in a crowded Beijing University alumni, Huli, Xiamen, the former Director of Development Office, "Ch'en," he said a lot of places to go after retirement, this should Zaiqu Chengdu and Tibet. Compels us to avoid the huge crowd a number of hot spots, try to pick routes with fewer visitors and ultimately took a "Stone Forest is also much better than this," left the impression that many people, such as ants, large and small stone forest. However, only separated from the way things are is a whole different realm of Shilin, warning signs at the entrance of the Public Security Bureau (not allowed to enter after dark) would let people a sense of mystery into the scenic area, after 4 weeks empty and boulders can be seen everywhere Tsui grass, there are large tracts of flowers, refreshing. Here visitors have been scarce, you can leisurely to enjoy the scenery, the election scene photographs, and that the security patrol was also more than the tourists, we only encountered a group of tourists, but they encountered two groups of security. The only regret is that very few road signs and three lost in the Stonehenge in the way of self-feeling as if the path is always along the same spin, and that has not seen the other tourists around, and my heart has been some anxiety, but finally because it encountered a very friendly patrol security, will be considered "safe escape."
More than three in the afternoon to leave the Stone Forest, Miss Yang has yet to eat lunch, back to Queensland on the way, she represented Yujing Li Chenggong in Yiliang junction with a rather well known (the door to stop a lot of cars) restaurant chain invited us to eat roast duck and yiliang ham, goat's milk cheese and other specialty folders. Yang is "Chuanmei Zi", 13-year-old will drive a truck, his father is a three-line project car captain, son preference, for she was very strict, she said: "Changzhemeda never opened his father had a joke", and therefore I has repeatedly said that he was among the rapport between father and son We are the envy. Yang and Xin macro relations are particularly good, demand Xin Wang said she was "Young Sister", the macro agreed with pleasure. Back to Kunming, Yunnan Province after the super-Hu plays host to a feature in a restaurant to eat dinner, Xiaoying paternity, ultra-Yunnan's eldest son to do the loan officer at China Construction Bank is the Czech counterparts, the two talk about the special speculative.
August 2 as early as 8 o'clock, Miss Yang to hotel breakfast with us and sent us to the Western Hills, cars to the Mid-levels, Hong Ying Xin requirements, "Young girls" pictures taken with us, and then she again we send Nishiyama park entrance. Park, there are small temple blocks, commonly known as "Dragon", its high cliffs of living in Britain for the Dianchi Lake, visitors take the tunnel on a cliff along the winding climb before being arrived at. This tunnel is an ancient craftsmen spent his whole life a hammer with a drill to break out, and only about one man's height, sometimes bending over to bow their heads to move forward, "boring", often encountered on the way if the window did not place stones, Shentou visits, The following is an abyss, it is alarmed. Of several climb through cliff platform is a good place for photo sessions, we use wide-angle and a telephoto lens photographed a few fairly good photographs (Huibin a few years ago to this one tour, but the photo of the photos do not reflect the out of here, the landscape). Mountain Road, who is also the tide, but fortunately at strategic locations to have a large number of civilian police in maintaining order, therefore, although is drawing huge crowds, but also an orderly manner, otherwise, a huge crowd in such a strategically located and difficult areas will inevitably have an accident . We are extremely long line patiently walked "Dragon", reach the top, the time is noon, three men agreed on between the tea mountain tea mountain view and enjoy Dianchi Lake, with corn and barbecue lunch on behalf of. Rest for about two hours later, take the chair-style cable car down to the Western Hills park entrance and then take over the room-style cable car to the Dianchi Lake, the national park. Travel Guide Introduction: "National Park, a collection of various ethnic groups in Yunnan sports, the essence of folk activities every day, Miao, Yi, Tibetan, Wa, Lisu and other ethnic dance performances and Lisu ethnic folk activities on the arbor and the Asian group As the performance .... and so on. " However, "Young Sister" has been warned that in many programs, only the elephant is indeed wonderful performances, and other very general. Therefore, we went straight to an admission on the elephant, but the time has not yet performed that, nothing better, three to find a nearby restaurant, then eat one meal snacks Yunnan characteristics. Performing elephants after the commencement of a well-established practice six tame elephants in the elephant performing under the command of members of a variety of thrilling, funny shows, people tickled pink and exuberance, overjoyed. To go through the elephant show, then visited a number of ethnic villages, then use the IC card and Beijing on the phone to inform that we have arrived in Yunnan Province.
17:00 have left the national park, is about to go out suddenly Yujing Li received a phone call about our dinner had been sent to pick Miss Yang. Shangyu respect me as a VIP dinner, I ate a King beheaded, and I quite got the message, to borrow his cell phone to report on my Cheng Wei, the warm hospitality. Two children in the wine on the table very well, and frequently a toast to you elders, everyone also to my "son of two" big plus compliment. During the meeting, was informed that Mitsubishi Jeep has come to Queensland, after dinner, "Young girls" to send us to a jeep driver with the Su-jung met the next day 9:00 Meet start.
As early as August 3, the Soviet Union proposed straight hair Zhongdian (700 km from Kunming), but super-Yunnan Dali City Planning Office has been entrusted on behalf of Mr Lee set the date of the stay in Dali, it was still decided to go to Dali. I am attracted Dali has been a long time in middle school in Beijing, from the "Travel Home" magazine had read about "Cangshan, Erhai Lake, Hope-fu cloud, Butterfly Spring, and Dali Three Towers" story. However, when because of inconvenient transportation and into Yunnan's journey, time-consuming, and expensive, but also difficult, in general, the many splendours of the marble is almost far away, seductive fascinating, so far. After college, watched the movie "Five Golden Flowers" of Dali's love added to their strong fascination with ethnic minority customs. Over the past 40 years, now the traffic is very convenient to go to Yunnan, coupled with the "Kunming World Expo," triggered by Yunnan Tourism heat, every day tens of thousands of tourists from all over the country poured into Yunnan. It says David Chao, Dali hotels, restaurants, is already a full day by day, he repeatedly cautioned us to be booked in advance to pre-empt the passive.
After breakfast, start taking a 320 National Road, via Kunming Xishan, tranquility City, Lufeng to Chuxiong, and then drove Chu (male) large (Li) motorway, and then by the South China and Xiangyun County in the afternoon arrived at the seat of state government Dali "Shimonoseki." Xin Jie of China Unicom phone here, no signal, only with a roadside public telephone contact with Mr Lee, the first guest houses in the city that had been scheduled for the room. To find a stroke and a smooth stay there, but the 100 yuan / day rent is not discounted, paused to settle after the restaurant opposite the hostel for lunch, eat marble dish "casserole Erhai fish", taste good, but the price is not cheap.
Immediately after a meal to the old town, Dali Ancient City in the "Shimonoseki" north of 13 kilometers, built in the Ming Hongwu fifteen years before, facing Erhai Lake, back Cangshan, criss-crossing the city streets are the north-south, east-west, for a typical checkerboard layout. City's business climate is quite thick, full of shops selling souvenirs, and other tourist cities in China very much the same feeling as if I was walking in the Gulangyu leading the way, nor to have "a rich ethnic customs." We have gates, the city's streets and the city Da Shuaifu and photo sessions, etc. to stay after a slight departure city did not have a special favor.
To leave the city and went to Chong San temple with three towers, three towers 1 km away from the city, point Cangshan Zhi Subsequently, Erhai embedded in the former, three-tower Ding Zhi, Yu-zhu marked empty, the Cang-er attraction. Three Towers of the main tower were Chihiro tower, square, 16 layer, Miyan Shi, Big Wild Goose Pagoda and Xi'an with the Tang Dynasty architecture. Stop under the tower looked up and saw cloud tower-chu, shift tower in cloud, it seems there is dumping trend. The middle of the east tower has a stone screen wall, a letter to "Yong Town, mountains and rivers," four characters, calligraphy and solemn Xiongqi quite a lot of spirit. Three Pagodas behind a pond, lake Taying shooting for the nirvana, the three are pictured here.
Butterfly Spring, 15 km away from the Three Pagodas, Bai gathered through well-known area, to see a lot of the typical Bai courtyard, but it is almost invisible to passers-by wearing national costumes. 214 State Road in this part of the road is narrow, the speed is not up to mention, nearly dusk when the arrival Cangshan get Mineshita yun. Butterfly Spring tickets 20 yuan / person, but according to the provisions of Yunnan Province, Xin Wang (students) to buy half-price ticket, and, butterfly museum has been closed (the museum to feed a number of live butterflies, but butterflies can not fly after the Tian An), Accordingly, after negotiations to buy tickets the old man agreed to the three of us two tickets. Butterfly Spring because of the film "Five Golden Flowers" and known, where springs surging clear, to Xin Jie left a deep impression. Every Lunar New Year in April said that in previous years, "butterflies", the overwhelming butterfly tree flowers in the fountain attracted hundreds of thousands of butterflies flying all over the sky, not even enough to be strings of a butterfly hook, head and tail Xiang Xian, hanging from the big acacia tree to the water, colorful, spectacular. However, in recent years due to changes in the natural environment, "butterflies" has long become a beautiful memory. But we were lucky three were Yaoguan Erhai Lake and climb the mountain when, in the mid-levels found in a small Tingbian never seen a beautiful butterfly, I could catch it, but for pity and ultimately did not start with forbearance.
Seen in the park several of IC card phones, with a telephone conversation with Hui-bin, and then leave the Butterfly Spring, in the vicinity of a "Garden Hotel" for dinner. Environment of considerable charm hotel, dining table placed in the courtyard, the white-blossomed plants in the overhead climbing scaffolding into a natural shade. However, as with tourists taking pictures to accompany Hudiequanbian "Five Golden Flowers" different, where the attendant lady wore T-shirts and thick crust of platform shoes, it seems the boss does not know how to use the national brand to attract customers, said Bai girls now only the New Year will wear national costumes. In contrast, Xiamen University, the door selling "Crossing the Bridge Rice Vermicelli" Miss Han Chinese restaurant but the people are all full of "wind, flower, snow, month" line first, it wanted to come with a little funny. Shop serving rather slow, I sat alone in locally produced marble round table, patiently waiting for the hot and sour taste of live Soviet master point in time to make mountains mushroom soup dishes such as the Bai, the two children to raise people out of the fish catch play, the Soviet Union and kitchen chef is immersed in the Bai girls in a chat each have their own fun. Dinner the day after tomorrow is already black, driving back guest houses, on the way see the Three Pagodas and the Dali Old Town have opened the scene lights, in the ancient city at night photo sessions.
August 4 to accept the Soviet Union proposed a temporary moratorium on first go to Zhongdian, Lijiang tour, starting early in the morning, eating breakfast at the roadside stalls throughout the city (fried dough sticks, soy milk), the drive to go large (Li) Li (Jiang) high-grade tourist highway, along the north line of Lake Erhai. Soon enter Eryuan County, find a gas station to add a little oil to continue road, the terrain gradually rise, passing through an alpine Pingba after the tank training ground, but also into the Heqing County. Are all along the mountain roads, scenic excellent car to walk on clouds, clouds floating in the foot of the mountain, many parking photography, still in Ma On Shan summit (3985 meters) next to the vehicle leaving the road into a mountain pine meadow sightseeing. In this chance encounter a caihua farmers, although he was a peasant dress, but carrying a single-lens reflex camera seagulls, but also with a fairly good flower photography.
Noon to Lijiang, not into the city, in the city opened the Tibetan side of the election a "Diqing restaurant" Tibetan Yak to eat hot pot, a restaurant's tables are located in the courtyard, with Root and Potted Plant will be separated from table to table to form a chic rooms. Dinner driving westbound, after pulling city (sea) on State Road 214 north, cross the Jinsha River Tiger Leaping Gorge and then to the bridge in the town, then this is too small Zhongdian Jinsha River to the West Bank, around three in the afternoon into the tiger ticket jump gorge scenic area.
After starting from Lijiang, everyone eager to see the snow-capped mountains, from the map view, the left by Tiger Leaping Gorge Haba (5396 meters), right-o Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (5596 meters), so one could not wait to Gap area to both sides of the hill observation. The right side of the mountains in the mist-shrouded in a gray exposed, but the four half-day can not be seen with a telescope to determine the peak of the white is the snow? Or a stone? Had to use a telephoto lens photography as evidence, to be determined later. The far left peak (Haba snow-capped mountains?) With our location far away from while it is true like the snow-capped mountains, but can only wait and see with a telescope can not take pictures. Zhongdian Tiger Leaping Gorge is located in the southeast, 105 km away from the county, 35 kilometers away from the Yangtze River First Beach is divided into the tiger jump, the tiger jump tiger jumped the next three paragraphs, a total of 18 rapids. Narrowest point the river is only 30 meters, the river has been Yulong, Haba snow-capped mountains of the two embrace Zhi, height difference more than 3900 meters above sea level, deep canyons, the highest in the world. Tiger jumped on the town nine kilometers away from the bridge, the whole valley in the narrowest section of middle of the river there is a 13-meter-high boulders, known as the tiger jumped stone, this stone is said the tiger had to skip the Jinsha River for the transition. It is like Koho processes in the middle of the river rapids and boulders in this fighting, triggering the H-Gu Ming Shan, such as full steam ahead, the momentum of an extraordinary, awesome the heart. However, the Su-master dealers worried about the inconvenience can not be afraid to Zhongdian before dark, only took us on a tour of the tiger jumped back bridge after the town back on the 214 National Highway, through the Haba mountains straight to Zhongdian.
We are facing the raging river, along a small river meandering north Zhongdian, the car's barometer shows a gradual increase in elevation, Mitsubishi vehicles have drove through three hydroelectric power stations (red river hydropower stations), along the way are the Castle Peak green, clear water torrents, great scenery. Around 18:00 into the vast grasslands of small Zhongdian, parking view, surrounded by unusually quiet, hear a little voice, the occasional car pass by, far will be able to hear the deep sound of a motor, and then have to wait a long time before we see a car all the way from roaring gallops. Zhongdian, as night approached to large, first reached the "Shangri-La" near the airport, which is a small plain between the mountains, there are wide roads, beautiful sculptures and a solitary city hotel, but we wait and see but I do not know of four Austin County, where they are. Frustration among the suddenly see the distant hills next to a busy road, so to play our jeep off-road capabilities, across a washed up this wilderness road, and then follow other people's cars to bypass the hills, the town appeared in front of the. This is a new city, large-scale, but also quite modern. We will car storage in the county bus station parking lot, people could live in traffic next to hotel, standard room asking price 170, but was cut down to 120 Xin Jie / day, Xin Wang entered the room after the accommodation is extremely satisfied, very admiration for her brother's haggling skills. Settled later, in a nearby house opened Zhuo Zang Min small restaurant for dinner, once again enjoy a variety of mountain mushrooms, dinner with the IC card in the street Huibin on the phone.
August 5, at the Traffic Hotel restaurant After breakfast, drive to go to baishuitai (101 kilometers away from the county seat), to go first to a gas station, add a little oil out after the county seat, but also the way climb, the temperature-by-drop, the vehicle had reached a minimum temperature of 7 degrees. Along the road is not good, but the beautiful scenery, high mountains, Bi, sparsely populated, large tracts of virgin forests and beautiful alpine meadow, full of simplicity of the natural landscape. Here, both with long branches of the "beard," Su said master locals call it "hanging tree" is a kind of moss, you can be a vegetable to eat. Baishuitai arrived at noon, which is located in Zhongdian County, 3 Canton Township, Baidi Village, "baishuitai" in Naxi language, meaning "flower growing up," is said to be China's largest sinter terraces. Controlled flooding along the hillside springs from above down, the water deposited minerals on the hillside, forming a unique "terraces", from afar they move sluggishly like a waterfall, it is a rare landscape. The strange thing is, although there is water everywhere, the ground they are not slippery, we can seem quite dangerous to walk freely on the slopes. After playing about an hour down the mountain, just a wooden structure of the local Naxi little restaurants for lunch, then ate several mountain mushroom, reportedly one of only this season can eat.
After dinner drive to go to Bita Lake, baishuitai sun in the sky, but it is rainy Bita Lake is said to accommodate a high altitude, where people have baishuitai 2,000 meters above sea level known as the low-lying areas. Bita Lake is a famous freshwater lake in Northwest Yunnan, scenic tickets 30 yuan / person, tickets to enter, but also the forest along the newly built highway about 20 minutes later, reached an altitude of 4,000 meters near the parking lot. Get off, simply can not see Lake, because the Bita Lake hidden in dense forest in the valley, and, where heavy environmental protection, and are not allowed to trample vegetation, visitors to the Plank Road to be laid along the logs down the mountain. The four of us playing three umbrellas (two brothers-one to), the walk through the rain in the jungle, surrounded by spacious shrouded in ancient Japan, under a tree covered with a variety of fresh grass and moss, passers-by rare, very quiet. Down to 3300 meters above sea level, the immediate emergence of a vast green meadow, meadow at the end of that Bita Lake, "Bita" in Tibetan is "Cui grass into a carpet of it". This is a typical highland lakes, the center has a small island in the deepest lake is about 40 meters from the sea to the right of the first renewal of water, from the left end of the sea water, so clear green water all year round. Bita there are few places to go, days, rain, me and Su master most of the time sitting in a cottage in the sheltering shore, viewing, the two brothers have spent 30 yuan rent a roof of the boat, take the Rain in the lake around the island of fun. To be the Czech Republic, Hong abandoned boat landing, the weather is late, attractions Tibetan managers have to pack items ready to work, feel a deserted four weeks, we dare not stay for long (it is said there is a bear lake activities), and public visitors to go hand in hand, along the years backtrack when parking. Mountain, we all experienced the high altitude of interest, we walk in silence, there are no words to laugh, I have to climb 20 to 30 for each step should be to stop big mouth breathing, with a break in order to climb again. The crowd quickly distanced themselves from the virgin forest in the dark, we can not see others around the silhouette, Xin-Jie take the initiative to leave to accompany me, and Xin Wang is the way non-stop, as early as we reach the parking lot for a long time, however, the I immediately returned to normal after the vehicle, Xin Wang had dizziness, vertigo, tingling hands and feet, there is a clear reaction to high altitudes.
Dark, he returned to the county seat, Zaiqu small Droma family dinner, listen to her sing. Small Droma claiming 16 years old, but seem even smaller, is Deqin people, the hotel proprietress is her "goddess", working non-stop singing when the Han Chinese pop songs, asked her to sing Tibetan songs for us, is somewhat shy, refused to sing. But the Tibetan girl is a natural singer, while we no longer pay attention to, the Droma but self-serving to open up singing voice, singing a series we have never heard of Tibetan folk songs, we all applauded for her, Xin-Jie said that if the just listen to the sound but no one, no one can imagine that not so little kids singing. Owner of the hotel after dinner to listen to the traffic speaking, Zhongdian long and almost invisible year-round snow peaks, snow-capped mountains to see the need to Deqin, where a number of blocks of more than 6000 meters high mountains, year-round snow, but also climb Mingyong. Therefore decided to suspend the temporary stay in Zhongdian, the next day to continue northward along State Highway 214, drive 180 km straight Deqin.
August 6 morning drizzle drizzly (Traffic bosses say the hotel is difficult to see the snow-capped mountains in this weather), after breakfast proceed on the way the first paid a visit to Napa lake and ira grassland (the legendary Shangri-La reasons). Not far out of town to see a beautiful prairie, along the road can be seen everywhere point to different locations, "Napa lake" signs, the local Tibetans circled an area of business tourism, however, we can only see the prairie, I do not know "sea" Where was forced to select one of the signs indicated the direction of tickets (10 yuan / person) into a group called "ira prairie style garden" of the place, the owner said Napahai seasonal lake, at the moment there is no water, only grassland. Rain days wet, cold pressing, the four of us only three umbrellas, is difficult to know when the tickets are free of charge here for the umbrella, so take the rain umbrellas into the grassland. In addition to our vast inter-alia that only yak and cattle, grasslands do not have some fun in the rain, wandering circle photo with the yak, the weather turned fine on some of the temporary before the car stalls after a pause of a Tibetan woman, buttered tea tasting and tsampa, asked how much money? Let us arbitrarily to the old lady, one dollar, two dollars will do, we gave five yuan each other a "Tashi Chandler" post-Sheung.
Dealers about twenty minutes, in the mountains a large loop to switch between the emergent surface of the water, this is the authentic Napa lake. Photo sessions continued after hiking, road conditions deteriorate significantly, not only narrow, many broken curved line along the mountains, but only a gravel road along the way have not seen deserted. Peak bypass car, here is a canyon into the abyss, though days have been clear up, but the sake of high altitude, the temperature is still relatively low, the height of summer to wear sweaters. Also moving about an hour later, appeared in front of a huge canyon, cars along the Gubi more than a thousand meters to the bottom of the drop of the road along the bottom of a jet stream in the gorge walk through at the moment of the 214 National Highway has become very narrow, by a Tibetan village difficult to narrow into the wrong car when you are. Out the canyon, the river suddenly saw a cross in front of us, view the map after that, we have encountered the Jinsha River. Earlier in this stream into the river, although the stream is clear melting snow, but the Jinsha River is a yellow water. Jinsha River surface elevation of about 2,000 meters, in Fulong, and pictures of the bridge crossing the river, when, wearing a sweater has been Xiantai heat.
Fulong Bridge is a steel and concrete bridge, but I do not know why one side has another suspension bridge, curiosity drove me to see what was going on, fleet bridge has been abandoned, leaving only a suspension, but could not bridge board, however, in 1959 to celebrate the opening of wall was built of red banners, still quietly standing on the bridge of the abandoned house, in grassland. Look at "mobilizing all positive factors, go all out to strive for more, faster, better and cheaper to build socialism..." And so they have a long absence, the text, as if time and return to the "Great Leap Forward" and that "vigorous "years. Living in deserted secluded Jinsha River shore, thoughts they fly away in Beijing, some long past began to emerge in my mind, 58 years "Great Leap Forward" when I obtain Peking University, "young and vigorous," was the scene seems to still able to "vivid", but what a pity photocathode似水, 41 years have been in the "twinkling of an eye" between the passage of time, thought of coming up next year retirement, sense of loss of love can not help but remember with affection, only to see around two children have also become useful, their can be no fear for looking back, I was Shaojue feeling of relief.
Across the river is Deqin County, the Jinsha River in the canyon walk through, crossing the river to the northwest running for some time, the other side already, Sichuan, Yunnan and Sichuan to become the Jinsha River boundary rivers, both sides of the roads, high mountains and narrow river reminds me of the Red Army march, when, and Joseph Across the river in parallel with each other propaganda scenarios. Noon to Benzilan, a Tibetan town at the entrance to open the "Ji Long Hotel" lunch. Shop seems to be newly built, the walls were Koshiro brush, the customer is only four of us, appeared to be very quiet. Sunny window, interior layout simple and clean, after a long bumpy to Since then, it seems everyone has a "home" feeling, unrestrained, his choice to open one's refrigerator to cook Meat is called the owner. The dining-room across the back of the Jinsha River in Sichuan across a large balcony, nice scenery, and so hungry when idle, to carry two children on the balcony photo sessions, the Soviet Union then went into the kitchen as usual, "guidance" the owner of the two Tibetan-law cooking. Apart from individual store's food is too salty can still outside the mouth, but the price is cheap, as long as 30 yuan six dishes, as well as Jianlibao frozen drinks, such as in the mountains benzilan Piye, which can be regarded as a delicacy.
Benzilan left the road began to climb to the summit and then overlooking benzilan valley, a level of visible dividing lines, a green line, on-line near-desert, on everyone's lips do not know whether it is an oasis of foot due to river water for irrigation with the rules. Before the trip along the Peak Wilderness not far turned a mountain, the eyes suddenly is a green, it is indeed something of a surprise, a roadside monument tells us that here Baima Snow Mountain (6054 m) nature reserve. The same altitude, the landscape not far away from as much as such a big difference, do not know which is nature's good fortune? Or man-made ecological damage caused. Xin Jie speculated that because benzilan is a small basin surrounded by mountains and file lived in rain clouds, thus causing localized dry desert. Protected areas, often in mist-shrouded, so lush grass and trees, we saw a typical alpine vegetation landscape.
And then moving forward, the mountain gradually high, I was put on a sweater, about an hour later, distant snow-capped mountains emerged the real, which is probably the Baima Snow Mountain has. Two parking photography, especially the second time, the Soviet Union, under a master in the way the car reached the west side, facing the snow-capped mountains of the alpine meadow, where bottom-up distribution of different types of vegetation, mountain is a dense pine forest , pine trees above is a slightly stunted purple barbed plants, to a level that we at the foot of Xi Cao. Higher terrain east hill road, exposed a serious weathered gray rocks, grass, it is estimated where the snow is melting only recently, perhaps before long will be on the snow-covered (Su chef said that this road in winter can not be prevailing). Facing the mountain wind in the meadow a few goshawks fly over the hanging call and two brothers climbed up a hill covered with grass bag sit-view eagles.
Farewell Baima Snow Mountain, the former line near another case of Meili Snow Mountain, lucky enough to see the Kagebo peak (6740 meters), she often shrouded in clouds, it was said that only people can be particularly good luck to see, however, due to the time elapsed At noon, the mountain backlight, shooting not been too effective. Meili Snow Mountain is the Tibetan mind the first eight Kamiyama, rather royal statue, a total of 13 peaks, peak Kagebo is a pyramid-shaped mountain, known as "the world's most beautiful mountain", so far no one can reach the top.
Starting from Dali, after the car left the highway, often in towns and villages, farmland in the walk through, Xin-Hong Chang a lot of insight along the way, I've met many "strange things", such as in Daejeon grow tobacco, corn, sesame seeds and potatoes and so on. Quick-open to the Deqin county car when he suddenly pointed out the window shouting: "look! Quick Behold! Big Blackbird!" I looked after him, said: "They're呀! The bird was also there is another name, it is also called a crow!. "
Evening to Dade Qin, the first thing to refuel our cars (all the way from Zhongdian to Deqin no gas stations), this time only tell us that the fuel tank in the Soviet Union left eight liters oil (only enough to run 20 kilometers), on the road He has been worried that not Deqin. In the gas station experience a postal truck driver, pushed out when the waist belt butt is busy filling in the exposed casually sticking out of a pistol. This area is Tibet, many people have guns in Zhongdian Droma family meal once a small shop owner to see (in plain clothes) hanging from a gun, he said that he's Procuratorate work, you can gun. Deqin county seat is located in a valley surrounded by the mountain streams, cars built in the mountains along the bumpy road down through the site of many busy roadside ravine in a number of the high dam was being constructed, this may be in order to prevent debris flow built project. When in Kunming, Yunnan Province said that he had super-hearing to come here, think Deqin urban planning are very unreasonable In case of landslides throughout the city will be destroyed. After entering the city, the road is bumpy, and everywhere in the trenching roads, the town is small not many shops, selling mostly some daily necessities and food, this city reminds me of the age of 60 to 70 small county in Fujian. Deqin There are several beautiful hotels appearance, I am worried that housing prices prohibitively high, after a taxi driver by pointing to find county hostel stay there, standard of 50 / day, there are toilets but no hot water supply , tap water is difficult bone-chilling cold baths. Although there is a typical Tibetan, it is difficult to see people who wear robes, and, with the Dali Bai girls, like guest houses, Tibetan lady said, "We are only at Chinese New Year, people wear clothes." Guest house in the county is faced with a self-help travelers to Beijing, as if couples, in order to save money, respectively, live in Tongpu, I did not ask them where they come from, but both men and women do not know what tribe dressed in national costumes. The couple of the boys, especially talkative, for we are also particularly friendly, and repeatedly reminded us, climb glaciers and the need to bring their own lunch need to get up early, because the glacier area will be the local Tibetans eat fierce slaughter. Settled out to eat after dinner, though not dark days, but time is at 8 am, and to find a state-run restaurant is ready to work when the others managed to arrange a meal for us, after dinner the next day to buy bread and other prepared early, Lunch is available.
August 7 is also a sunny day, we got up early date in order to bread on behalf of the breakfast, guest houses, central cases by Dolma (who lives in Mingyong foot) lead the way by car to a 214 State Road, landslides can be seen everywhere along the way, is said to the Salt Well in Tibet Road has been blocked due to landslides. Fortunately, we just came up OK in the 214 State Road 29 km, that is, left the national highway, swerved into an easy road, along the Lan Cang River canyon wall all the way downhill to the river bank, after the bridge turn right, heading straight for glacier . This road is designed for easy development "Mingyong" tourist spots and built, traffic is even worse, is full of landslides falling rock, the Soviet Union masters say that this road can not be driving in the rain.
Glacier is located in Yunling Township, Sri Lanka in rural areas, Ming-Yong community, is a Tibetan village, where we have to buy travel tickets (30 yuan / person) hired after four horses, riding up the mountain, give me the name Tsering Lama of the Tibetan Nepal Mary, but also cater to our Tour guide, he is very friendly and very helpful to us, we can say we can not lead without him climb glaciers. In the glacier at the entrance to the main peak once again lucky enough to see that Lennart Meri, Nyima also said that the main peak is a rare one to see. After entering glaciers everywhere tall Ice Wall, the sun makes ice melt continuously, there is danger everywhere, always can be heard I do not know where they came from the sound of ice and snow avalanches. Nima walking alone in front, paragraph by paragraph to explore the way to find the highway (usually gravel piled Office) and then greeted us forward. Sometimes the need to climb above 70 degrees Ice Wall, Nyima Zachu foot on the ice with stones and pit themselves up first, and then pull us up one by one. To climb, I have been wondering whether it can continue along the same route, but this can only have "courage", and all worship Tuoni Ma, I believe that since he can protect us on the glacier, will certainly find ways to protect our under the glacier. Glacier at noon to eat some bread and mineral water, down around 13:30. I am riding alone, other people walking, riding down the mountain did not expect that much more difficult than riding up the hill, on horseback, to the general fear that they will fall, only dismount on foot, people leave the horse galloping horse. Nima looked very anxious, has been urged us to ride, but the trial Xin Jie and Aron up like me after they'd rather walk. I have repeatedly Nima guarantee, if not riding his horse, but the rental horse costs down I will make payments, however, still feel very uneasy Nyima, again and again, he advised me three horse . He finally persuaded not stand again on the horse, according to Nyima approach leg forward stretch to the thrown back, saddle with a single pull Bantang way on horseback, did not expect such a way that although initially very dangerous, but riding for some time, people find it very comfortable to relax and later, Nyima also happy that puts on "Tibetan Plateau" tunes.我比步行的人提前十多分钟到山下,孩子们下山后都很疲痨,人懒洋洋的。返程再过澜沧江,我想好好照几张,但昕宏一点兴趣都没有,小捷可能是碍于情面才勉强下了车,一付臭脸在江桥处随便照了一张。但幸好他们对县城附近的大峡谷还有点兴趣,拍到了一张很不错的照片。
回到德钦县城已是下午3点多,吃午饭太晚,晚饭又太早,决定先以方便面充饥,休息一下,晚上再大吃一顿。车快到招待所时,遇到因修路挖沟而造成的堵车,昕宏下去买方便面,我们在车上见他频频地进出一个个小店,都笑他“太猪”, 方便面都买不到,但等他上车后才知道这里的方便面多是几个月前的,他几经选择终于买到较新鲜的产品。吃完方便面大睡一觉,下午起床并在公共浴室洗个热水澡后,自我感觉好多了,晚上就在招待所餐厅用餐,为了弥补中午的“损失”,特别要求杀一只鸡(但忘记事先问好价钱),饭吃得还算满意但价钱不菲,一只鸡要80元,付款时昕捷脸都黑了。
8月8日早上是阴天,山头云遮雾绕,苏师傅说今天路上的时间会比较紧张,所以起得很早。在招待所餐厅吃米线当早餐后,又遇到那对北京来的情侣,男女都换上了在当地购买的藏袍(据说花了500多元),正准备出发进藏。与他们告别后,我们也开车踏上归途,再经中甸奔丽江。返程一路阴天,云层很低,在德钦境内根本看不到任何雪山,回想起昨日,还真是运气好。驶经白马雪山垭口,云层低得几乎是压在头上,这里是沿途海拔最高处,车外温度只有摄氏5度,父子三人下车抢拍“垭口飞云”,共同的感觉是“冻得够呛”。中午开到奔子栏,仍在吉祥饭店吃午饭,饭后立即赶路。过金沙江,再翻过一座高山,我们又回到中甸草原,昕捷的最大愿望是拍到显示香格里拉风光的照片,多次停车选景,总算如愿以偿。
离开中甸草原后又在小中甸河边加了一次油,海拔一路下降,途中时晴时雨,柏油路面较滑,苏师傅开车十分小心,沿途见到两部翻车,其中的一部小车烧得只剩一个黑乎乎的空壳,它显然是这一两天才出事的,因为我们来中甸途经这里时并未见到翻车。经虎跳峡的桥头镇并由鲁南桥再过金沙江后,我们驶离来时的原路(214国道),改走一条新修的公路沿金沙江东岸南行,下午日西斜时到达丽江县的石鼓镇,立即登望江楼观“长江第一湾”。下楼时见到一部IC卡电话,随与惠彬通了电话,她正在为我们三人的失踪而担心(昕捷的联通手机除昆明外都不能用,德钦又无IC卡电话,我们近三天没与彬联系)。
著名的石鼓是一块鼓形的大理石,放在冲江河边的小亭中,相传是褚葛孔明南征时为镇土蕃所立。 “鼓面”原本无字,明朝的纳西土司为纪念在此大破土蕃军,又在鼓面上增刻了文字。参观过石鼓后,在一间路边店吃晚饭,品尝石鼓特产的(金沙)“江鱼”,这是一种大头细身的小鱼,苏说由他请客, 45元一斤他听成每斤15元,一口气要了两斤,还特地点了由当地特产“树挂”腌制而成的小菜。
饭后天已昏黑,车开大灯上路,时值当地少数民族的火把节,沿途随处可见玩弄火把的人。到丽江时已是晚9点多,城内人山人海,热闹非凡,到处是巨大的火堆,不相识的人们手拉手围着火跳舞。然而,此时住处(特别是标间)非常难寻,我们开车往返奔波,一直到半夜才由昕捷在位于市中心繁华地段(红太阳广场北侧)的二星级玉泉宾馆,找到两个标准间。宾馆的民族院为纳西民宅别墅式院落,很有特色,但房源非常紧张,这两个标间只能让我们住一晚,次日已被别人预订。入住时是晚11点,经昕捷交涉,给我们打折价,每间140元/天。
8月9日早饭后办退房,总台说中午可以空出一套有卫生间的四人间(300元/天),当即预订了这一房间,然后,将全部行李都搬上汽车,开车去云杉坪。途中经停“白沙”,观纳西族“明代壁画”,壁画展示了藏传佛教和儒、道等各种宗教的生活故事,融汉、藏、纳西文化为一体,属省级重点文物保护单位。 “云杉坪”位于玉龙雪山半腰,车至“玉龙”后只能停在山脚,父子三人决定上山时不乘索道,沿马帮所走的路线徒步攀登。不料途中遇小雨,道路泥泞又没带伞,进退两难,但人已至半山,只得脱下外衣顶在头上冒雨前进。一路都是原始森林,雨大时就找颗大树躲雨,雨小后继续前进。在树下躲雨时曾遇一位颇健谈的宁波独行侠,他说云南的景观以怒江最佳,金沙江不如澜沧江,澜沧江又不如怒江。
树海茫茫,方向难辨,在一个三叉路口我们甚至分不清哪条路是上山?哪条路是下山?几经周折一筹莫展,最后还是因为遇到一队登山的马帮,才能继续前进。至云杉坪后,雨渐停,该处其实就是一片隐藏在原始云杉林中的小牧场,远看好似玉龙雪山脚下的一片翠绿的地毯。历史上,这里曾是纳西族青年男女因恋爱受阻,双双逃亡的驻足地,所以,又是恋人们的圣地。在天空晴朗时,云杉坪是观赏雪山草坪的绝好去处,但因刚下过小雨,我们遥望玉龙只见云雾不见雪山,颇为扫兴,只得安慰自己说:“梅里雪山都去过了,见不到玉龙并不太遗憾”。草坪边有7~8位身着“披星戴月”服的纳西女表演歌舞,声音非常嘹亮,在空旷的大草坪上很远就可以听到她们的歌声。
令人意外的是,当我在为两儿摄影时突然听到熟悉的福州口音,仔细观看,发现竟然是我97年在武夷山参加省委组织部学习班时的同班同学,福医大附属第一医院的庄永宗主任医生,两人相聚甚为亲密,合影留念。
游毕冒小雨乘索道下山,找到汽车后已是下午两点多钟,直接开车进城,在一家看似颇有名气的餐厅吃沙锅鸡,餐室只是三面有墙,顶棚用塑料花装饰成葡萄架状,可在室内直接观看屋外景致。沙锅鸡味道不错,但席间突降倾盆大雨,一面吃美味,一面观雨景,回想被困云杉坪半山,更是庆幸我们在当时没有遇到这样的大雨。
饭后回玉泉宾馆洗澡,休息,晚上冒雨夜游丽江古城(正式名称应是大研古城),给我最深的印象是到处都有流水。城中老外颇多,有些饭馆中的食客竟是清一色的老外。我们也在古城的四方街找到一家小饭馆用晚餐,房子为二层,全用木建,古旧残破,上楼时感觉楼梯和地板都在颤动。我选了一张临窗的小桌,窗外就是四方街的夜景,因次日要和苏分手,不免有些惜别之情,晚饭边吃边谈,吃得很晚,其间,昕宏还被别人请去做摄影师。
8月10日,一大早起来开车到古城,在城中(大石桥附近)一清溪木桥旁的小饭店吃早餐,边品尝纳西族食品,边领略“小桥流水人家”的风韵。饭后,四人“组团”游览,两个孩子显得有些无精打采,为了活跃气氛,我自告奋勇扮演导游,根据旅游手册上的内容,编造了生动的导游词,激励跟团的三位团员(捷、宏、苏)打起精神,沿古代马帮行走的石板路寻觅探访。大研古城海拔2416米。始建于南宋,距今已有800多年历史。城内街道密如蛛网,以四方街为中心向四方辐射;玉泉河水分三岔入城,在城内又分成无数支流,穿街绕巷,入墙过屋,形成“家家临溪,户户垂柳”的高原水乡风貌,被誉为“高原姑苏”,是我国保存最完整、最具民族风格的古代城镇。古城中至今仍居住着4千多户纳西人家,弥漫着浓郁的生活气息,很多路人(特别是中年以上的妇女)都穿着传统的纳西服装。城中居民酷爱养花,溪旁、门前、院内、甚至是墙头上,到处都摆放着各色盆花。沿街商店虽多,但多数店铺既出售旅游纪念品,也出售各种日常生活用品,并非像大理那样只为游客而设。 “四方街”广场是古城的中心,条条石板路自城中不同方向聚汇到此,据说,从遥远的年代一直到民国时期,这里都是滇藏茶马古道上各路马帮聚首交易的场所。时至今日,四方街也还是古城中最吸引游客的“商业中心”,广场上的游人“比肩继踵而在”,拥挤的摊位上排满各种土特产和手工艺品,穿着民族服装的小贩们大声吆喝着招揽“远方的客人”,繁华景象可谓“不似当年,胜似当年”。广场附近有小溪流过,溪中之水清澈见底,两岸都是间间的小店,店门前遍植鲜花、翠柳,座座木桥横跨清溪方便游人来往,琳琅满目的商店与小桥流水非常协调地融合在一起,品味明显优于大理古城。
9点左右返回宾馆,退掉住房,整理行装,出发回昆明,出城前又在玉泉公园稍停,拍完了手中所有的胶卷。玉泉公园位于丽江城北象山脚下,俗称黑龙潭,潭水源自玉龙,清澈见底,天晴时可见玉龙雪峰倒影潭中,景色十分迷人,但我们达到时正下着小雨,“玉龙” 被云雾遮掩,未能见到雪山倒影。黑龙潭周围翠柳垂帘、古木葱郁、楼阁亭台掩映在绿树红花之中,园内还荟萃了古代纳西族的建筑群,有众多省级重点保护的明、清建筑。在游园时又巧遇庄医生,同为“武夷第八期”的学员,居然能在云南两次不期而遇,实属缘分不浅。
出城后,再走大(理)丽(江)高等级旅游公路返大理。途经鹤庆,淅淅沥沥的小雨依旧下个不停,汽车横穿“草海”,湖面上荷花盛开,如烟细雨朦朦胧胧,红花朵朵点缀着大片翠绿,真是“风景这边独好”。再次驶上鹤庆境内的高山后,雨渐停,山下的云景比来时更好看,很多人都停车拍照,苏师傅建议我们也下去拍,我听了一声不啃,昕宏替我回答说:“他没胶卷了!”。这段山路修得很好,景观颇似挂历上的美国公路,然而,就在这样的路上却频频发生车祸,我们先是见到一辆白色桑塔纳掉在路边沟中,随后又在坦克训练场的路边见到十多部警车,其中两部前后撞在一齐。我们不解为何在路况极差的德钦沿途未见车祸,到高等级公路却祸不单行?苏师傅说这是很正常的,因为路况差时司机一般都会小心驾驶,路况好时反而会放松警惕。
经洱源返大理,中午到蝴蝶泉,又在上次去过的白族花园饭店用餐,因时间紧迫,餐后立即赶路。在下关上高速公路,开行不久后又见到一部中巴冲出路面翻倒在公路边的水田中,来往交通为此暂时封闭,父子三人乘机下车活动了一下腿脚。傍晚在安宁与昆明西山区交界处的一个加油站加油并用晚餐,这里并排有好几间餐馆,竞争激烈,因而服务态度极佳,我们受到VIP式的接待,车刚减速马上就有人冲过来接车、指引停车位置,然后又有人免费为我们洗车。因马上要与苏分手,晚餐较丰盛,还是请苏点菜,又吃了一只宜良烤鸭。也许是吃得太高兴的原故,昕宏离座时忘记把挂在椅背上的外衣带走,幸好收拾餐桌的服务小姐及时发现,拿着衣服大喊大叫地追出来(当时车已起动)。
晚十点左右开到昆明体育馆,因事先已用昕捷的手机和小瑛取得了联系,她到体育馆来接,把我们带到她住处附近的轻工厅招待所,安排了住处,苏师傅自已上路。
8月11日早,父子三人自己在外吃早饭。饭后到小瑛家,小珊和守巽都来看我们,守巽已为我们买好晚上去安顺的火车硬卧票。中午由守巽做东在外吃饭,饭后补买了三个胶卷。下午无事,守巽先回家一下,两个侄子和两个姑姑打扑克,侄子大胜。晚饭是小瑛在外面买的面条,饭后昕宏的“杨姐”奉虞经理派谴开车过来,送我们去火车站。两姑姑打的相送,守巽也带女儿来送。
8月12日早4点多到安顺,以正原说会到车站来接,但火车到站时并不见人,用手机联系才把他从床上叫起,匆匆忙忙带车来接。早五点多到大舅家,先由大舅妈安排吃了早饭,八点左右以正的车到, 立即出发去龙宫游玩,该处景观颇佳,蝴蝶甚多,漫天飞舞,但昕捷被蝴蝶的幼虫蛰到,所幸只是痛苦十几分钟而已。从龙宫出来后,经不起一个“导吃”的拼命劝诱,到一间小饭店用午餐,被老板很宰了一刀(是小捷抢付的餐费)。点菜时以正要了一盘炒“鱼腥草”,这是当地的特色菜,我们三人品尝后都不敢恭维,以正说这道菜是本地人的宠儿,但吃多了可能会上瘾,他初由北方来黔时亦觉得难吃,但现在也和贵州人一样迷恋此物。饭后游览漩塘,乘船在一短河中航行,此河虽短,但流量颇大,源自一个山洞,止于一个不大的池塘(漩塘),因塘下有洞,大量水在洞中消失,使水面出现旋转的浮萍,故称漩塘。
游毕漩塘,再访黄果树,这里的瀑布确实名不虚传,非常壮观,特别是水帘洞,很难想象竟会是天然形成的。然而,美中不足的是景区商业色彩太浓,到处都是摊贩,而且,我们的导游(以正)对黄果树又过于熟悉,介绍得也过于认真,我们总是能提前知道每一个景点的所有细节,使旅游的新奇感荡然无存。所以,黄果树虽然名扬中外,景色也的确壮丽,但我们的心情总不如游云南时那样激动。以正说他以往每周都要陪客来此,但最近已有很长时间没来了,昕宏问:“有多久?”,以正答:“恐怕快有一个月了!”。傍晚回到大舅家,小敏和小乾都来,以正的女儿也在,大家一齐吃了晚饭,并在客厅里合影。晚上安排我们三人住一间,睡得很好。
8月13日早,以正找来汽车陪我们游“天星”,该景区是典型的喀斯特地貌,到处是深谷和流水,灰色的岩石上长着巨大的仙人掌,还游览了一个溶洞。午后回安顺,途经镇宁县城,在公路边选一餐厅吃午饭,以正张罗了一桌丰盛的贵州菜,阿宏吃得特别满意。席间,以正突发奇想,电招他在该县下属公司的领导“谈工作”,两位头头风尘仆仆地赶来,立即要酒向我们敬酒,但“工作”好象并没谈多少。饭后还是昕捷抢先付款,但两头头执意要算他们请客,硬是把钱塞还。事后以正说:“你们不让他们埋单是不可能的,他们心中很明白,叫他们来的主要任务就是付饭钱”。晚上小敏和小乾夫妇都来大舅家,一起吃晚饭并合影。
8月14日,回厦的飞机是下午6点10分从贵阳起飞,因此,上午被安排访问各家。早饭后大舅妈先带我们去小乾家,然后,小乾夫妇也和我们一齐去以正家。以正家很漂亮,照了几张照片,但大部都照坏了。离开以正家后,大舅妈先回去准备午饭,小乾夫妇陪我们逛街,走了老街,参观了孔庙,望子成龙的老爸叫昕宏在龙柱前留影。
午饭吃饺子,大家动手包。下午三点,以正的车来,他陪我们去贵阳机场。六点十分,飞机及时起飞,到厦门时已是万家灯火,昕宏第一次在天上看到厦门的夜景,云贵之行圆满结束。到家时已是晚上九点多,我次日又要乘早7点的飞机赴青岛开会。
作者:1020222782