Coincides with "atypical pneumonia" in China, when a pandemic, a crowded rush for northwestern Yunnan tour on the 16th.
April 19 stars
0840 arrived in Kunming -1.4 thousand left to go to Shanghai -1140 Lijiang -2.2 thousand arrived in Lijiang, Su
For this excursion, we have done a lot of preparatory work. I have a lot of information from the Internet to collect information on Nu and Dulong, I again reviewed the records of the last trip to Yunnan. OZOKA bought a new coat and NIKKO hiking shoes. The original focus on crossing the Biluo snow-capped mountains, on foot or Dulong Nu. However, taking into account the travel time constraints, they adjust to climb snow-capped mountains and foot Biluo focus on Tiger Leaping Gorge.
Planes began landing multicolored earth rushing toward us, relieved against the blue sky and clouds, pink outside the enchanting. Has finally arrived.
Got off the plane, we went to Kunming Bus Terminal, sold tickets to Lijiang. Then simply eat something.
Luxury VOLVO Bus only more than 10 individuals, each of us has a market share of the two seats, one seat himself, a release package and something to eat. Along the way, on our side to eat, while watching the scenery, as well as the beautiful names: the peace, Choi Wan ... ... difficulties, and sleep a while, woke up in the fishing village of Erhai Lake side dining. Of course, a simple dish, but I finally see some common roadside weeds. There is a profusion of green grass, branches with reddish tip, the original thought it was after the change of color by the frost, look closely know that this is flowers, Rosa xanthina, dark red. There are blue, purple flowers of the grass. Like their low chairs, low tables, which are also mini-grass floret type.
Had arrived in Lijiang at night, the stars and extra large, extra bright. Small Gu said that this may be because almost from the day's sake bar.
April 20 Maoniuping Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Maoniuping - Baisha Mural
Last night, before the break about the driver, starting 8:30 am to tour the Yulong Snow Mountain.
Out of Lijiang, after Ganhaizi, Guo Yun Shanping directly to the Maoniuping. Riding up the mountain, more than an hour destination.
This is also a plateau at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain lawn, but lower than Yunshan Ping Gao and large, there are ups and downs. Dismount after a half-hour trip along the turf to protect the wooden plank road a step by step uphill. Huangcao wanders the dark blue sky, snow-capped mountains exposed first step in a long, indicating the present. To the other end of the lawn, face the snow wall, sit-in clear thinking. In such places, in addition to not doing anything and still have the enjoyment do better than this?
Return in the passing Dongba God Garden, overlooking a huge wooden carving of totem; in cottage and bought two kinds of jade to eat local thing, first, the same thing as the hawthorn, taste is acid, like, the other for the pod, looks like a broad beans, but the folders inside the flesh is thin, the nuclear large. As one would like to see preserved for six centuries the town Baisha murals. Where the original 20 pieces of paintings, after the Cultural Revolution, leaving only the one. Close to watch the painting has faded, but the features fairly clear: multi-religious unity of the Buddha's teachings of reincarnation heaven and earth; colored black, red, blue, yellow, green, mixed with paste gold, precious stones embedded.
Out of the small temple in the town of Baisha walked quite a number of ancient atmosphere. Brick-wood structure of the old house, around the display of blue calico, a stall on the gadgets, very eye-catching.
April 21 shopping, bars Heilongtan - Old Town of Lijiang
Early morning pain, but still went to the Black Dragon Pool. Back there again, the sky is blue like the water is the same clear, no water on the last paper lamps, feeling much better.
After the return to the city, go shopping. Small Gu bought some clothes. Two hand-painted T-shirts, the moon is the Dongba gods and totems. There are a bright red pants, divided into before and after the two, very fun, you can wear at the wedding. There are some Miao embroidery clothes, very beautiful, but too expensive, and were dropped.
Hint of the sun in the afternoon, sitting at the Venice Cafe for more than two hours, quiet. Nothing to do, where they see people coming and going; catch a glimpse of the newspaper to the State Department's notice to cancel 51 holiday, it seems, "atypical pneumonia" has been very powerful, otherwise the Government will not give up this much and promote consumption a good opportunity. Some people in the portrait, there is a long-haired guitarist for the two tourists, he wrote to sing the "Lijiang." Tune pretty good, that is, a lack of passion when singing may be the reason too many times to sing bar.
The sky dimming, bar street lights up, shaking in the breeze, it was placed in the stream of light to see it to drift far away to go.
April 22 Bay of Yangtze first straw
0700 Departure Bay -1.1 thousand bridgehead -0.9 thousand first-1200SHEN 'S CAFE-1300 began to arrive on foot Tiger Leaping Gorge -1630 Naxi Ya Ge, Su
Leave Lijiang, a beautiful and quiet city, we began a program of intense and exciting journey. I remember last year's Christmas in Guilin on foot, so that the small Gu love this closeness with nature, but challenging form of travel. Therefore, in this program, including three paragraphs this trip, on foot Tiger Leaping Gorge, Tang Yongming glaciers, snow-capped mountains crossing the Biluo.
First Beach has come before, as compared with the previous, water is more green, more and muddy, and no one standing on water's edge fishing.
Shek Kwu over the town, the small Gu Naxi woman on the roadside grass not put it down. Things to see such a large volume of mail I thought I could go home, they chose two grass stool, the size of two grass basket, only took a total of 11 yuan.
In the bridge, find the post office, package shipping and postal costs of 40 yuan!
Send these lovely items to go after SHEN'S ate lunch, took a map of the three Tiger Leaping Gorge.
Departure, enjoy good health, but the line to the "Sunshine Inn", the abdominal pain intensified, rest for half an hour, taste the famous Po Dutch tea, very refreshing. Also supports to the Naxi Ya Club, it no longer had to fight.
Stay there more than two hours after the sleep, get up and eat dinner, the spirit has been restored. Has come to more than a dozen foreigners, twitter talk late into the night in the hospital.
April 23 HALFWAY toilet
0915 to leave the Naxi Ya Ge -1200 to 28 Shui top -1,345 Glen Inn (PEACE GEORGE) -1620 HALFWAY (HALFWAY) -1945 in the TINA (TINA'S)
All the way on foot, on the 28 Shui the most difficult. Feeling unwell, weight-bearing, one can not see the top Shui Po pairs 1. Climbed over after the acute slope Mashimo, and then along the contour lines of the narrow winding path, over one hundred Palace Falls, and then downhill to the Gap Inn lodging.
Foot tiger jumped impressed me most was the inn along the way will be provided free tea, rest, and enthusiasm to guide your journey. We are half-way in Glen Inn and the Inn for free tea break. In addition, the accommodation is 10 yuan per person, dinner is also a more reasonable price.
As with all of the Mix said, HALFWAY toilets and bright. Before I left, I deliberately visit, the whole window including the Yulong Snow Chiaki, toilet while a green tree.
Gap Inn in the local chicken dinner taste, taste great, it is worth a try.
April 24 - the tiger jumping water
0920, under the tiger jumped into the River -1,100, -1,230 water back to their teacher's house -1,405 Zhang arrived on the train -1,700 baishuitai
Tiger Leaping Gorge upper, middle and lower three sections. Jump on the tiger to tiger jumped stone known, the water suddenly close to 30 meters, there is a boulder into the river divided into two, not to mention the legendary god tiger, the tiger can be ordinary jump. The river flows all the way to go through a number of rocky beach, splash Mitsue spray, saying that sky full of stars, is the tiger jumped features.
Along the teacher is said to Zhang (who mixed the Internet, is a dragon in the first but not the tail, see figure) the amendment of the trail, has been in Tiger you can jump down to the riverside. According to plan, in the riverside water, looked up and saw the surging river coming to my head. A time when noon, the river rising fast, and take the water back to the rubble mound when finished, just the local stations already drowned.
Back to Psychology home, bought a large iced weighing 7 pounds of watermelon, sitting in front of while watching the mountains, while Chigua. Blue skies, sun shining, the temperature as high as 30 degrees, think about two days ago to cloudy, light rain the weather really helped us very busy.
Two in the afternoon to catch the bus to go baishuitai the way through the next tiger jumping, overlooking the large set, crossing the Haba Snow Mountain, the five o'clock baishuitai.
Haba Snow Mountain is the Jinsha River and the Lancang River watershed, the original plan was to walk along the trail Haba Haba village, and then ride to the baishuitai, but having regard to the spend the night in the wild, and in poor health, he made adjustments. Pakistan car around the snow-capped mountains turn呀turn, flip over the pass and saw the large tracts of forest are felled under residual stumps, startling; also see the residents, a group of people dressed in Tibetan clothes to celebrate.
As the Dongba sacred and China's largest single sinter topography, baishuitai attractive. Tableland edge of the berm along the stairs, the "fairy left fields" style emerge. This season the water is also small, can be wade by. There are many top Koike, growing green algae, and the bulk of fish and other aquatic animals. As the sun sets behind trees in the white, leaving a long shadow.
April 25 lying on the cloud point of view according to La Prairie
0830 start -1130 to Zhongdian - travel that Pahai and Songzanlinsi
At this time that Pahai not yet returned to green, but the water began to rise more, herders have begun, where grazing, cattle, sheep, pigs, horses lazy to roam the grasslands. A 73-year-old Tibetan took us to ride into the center of grassland, and then sit down and watch cattle and sheep grazing, listening to him to participate in People's Liberation Army, serfs story. He also knew that the recent outbreak of the war in Iraq, strongly criticized the U.S. military hegemony.
To listen to get tired, they lay down, in terms of grassland blue sky, white clouds, basking in the sun, and let the wind blew from the side.
Then, went to Songzanlinsi. Songzanlinsi has eight health parameters, large one or two hundred people, two or three Living Buddha, there are also dozens of small. Kang reference is to Zhongdian region actually came in. by 8 Lotus divided into eight districts, each district has a health parameter, the local Tibetans responsible for the supply of their own health parameters, Kang Participation in the lamas to learn through books, become the spiritual leader of the region.
Back from the temple, the body basically resumed, on the opposite side stay, "Pang Ge Hotel" to eat fish and tiger tile Sichuan peppers, very tasty.
April 26 overlooking Kawagebo
0840 Departure -1100 benzilan lunch, had arrived in the East Chikurinji -1,500 Deqin Akinaga -1645 to -1600 on the grid to see the arrival Kawagebo -1900 Mingyongcun
Car from Deqin out, circled in the mountains on one side is a mountain, on the other side is a ravine. Time seems to have stopped, mountains and rivers has been stopped.
In the Tibetan moving train, the way will be playing the Tibetan songs. Singing loud and clear, as here, the high talent in the field, use the "Travels of Lao Can" and described Mr. Wang Xiaoyu song's words, "as wire thrown high altitude." In Shanghai, sound is so harsh, but here is very occasion.
Ming Yong from Deqin to the way flying just over Temple in the sky Kawagebo reveal his majestic appearance. Thick blanket of clouds, exposing a sharp peak. Tibetans all over car cheered.
Merrill's people are pilgrims from washed him, in the nine Tibetan holy mountains, he was the only male Kamiyama. This year, the Year of the Goat is his Benming year, so this year once the equivalent of Mt Mt usual twelve. To this end, April 28 held a grand temple will also be flying activities, there is Living Buddha to come.
April 27 Mingyong, pilgrimage Lennart Meri, flying in the afternoon Temple
0740 starting up the mountain -1,030 taizimiao -1100 Lotus Temple -1,335 to -1,200 started down the mountain scenic spot to leave the door -1,500 Mingyongcun -1,600 to fly Temple
Mingyong is the lowest elevation temperate continental glacier, the next from the Lancang river, just 800 meters. However, when you first saw glaciers, but he out of my expectations.
After walking uphill for more than an hour to reach a small bridge, cross river by. In its upper reaches about 30 meters of water from the gray block out under the hood, which is glacier tongue. Up, is a tilting cover gray, mixed-ran, such as boulders, it seems there is no coin Bai glory.
Miaohou in too late, we have a clockwise turn for a week; in Lotus Temple as well. When the Tibetans and the only difference between the annual hajj pilgrimage is not kowtow. I do not believed in Buddhism, mind has come to also Bale. Prince Edward Temple office to have a second viewing platform for the steel-framed wooden plank road along the right side of the glacier has been tie-up, even to the first observation deck. At this point, you can see a huge ice cracks and crevices of Yingying green.
The upper glacier first glance, like a construction site on the lime, was massive, piled on the hillside. The mid-day sun, the ice melted, issued a loud creak giggle. So ugliness is my first impression, I can not understand the nearly 30-degree temperatures why it has not completely dissolved.
Deqin by 3:00 pm shuttle back to the temple flying under the auspices of the Living Buddha of the monastery to wait for tomorrow's ceremonies; of course, one important reason is that want to see a magnificent view of sunrise golden dome.
Stay there, the time is too early to be sitting on "the Merrill Inn" (MEILI JUNCTION) the door of the sun to see snow-capped mountains and chat. Time throughout the afternoon on a quiet mid-stream to this. This is the journey of the most relaxed moment.
Merrill Inn is like a base camp, from where four of the tourists will be set. There are four young people from Guangdong who have been here to stay four days will be at 5:00 every morning get up, quietly the stars, moonlight, and the pre-dawn sky, changing colors. The purpose of their trip out of a book to introduce the local scenery. Therefore, their equipment, so I envy: PAJARO more the more cars, APPLE portable, full range of digital cameras. This brings me started to seriously consider digital devices. Plus hand-held camera, the weight of the equipment with me quite, but the unit cost is much lower photo, which also makes it possible to mass of the photography to improve the success rate of the work.
Evening, four teams invited to dinner with them. Said to be dinner, in fact very simple: medusa stewed chicken, sand cabbage, Chinese chives. 10 Personal eat very happy to continue to chat until late at night after dinner.
April 28 pre-dawn hanging in the air bringing a Kawagebo
0500 wake up and see Kawagebo -0600 Kawagebo appeared -0650 sunrise, sunshine -1.0 thousand Jinshan Temple, -1400 starting to go away fly -1.83 thousand arrived in Tribulus terrestris Tribulus terrestris in the -1910 to the "wine Inn"
Get up when the air there is a lot of dark clouds, only not fresh Hanxing the flicker. I thought today do not see the sunshine in Jinshan. Sit at the Inn of the corridor, keep looking at the sky, watching him from the long lead into a dark blue gray.
6:00 look, the sky began to light up. Well the camera frame, waiting for the arrival of sunrise. Suddenly, a small Gu shouting, "Look there!" Down to her fingers, the dark blue background of Kawagebo reveal his bringing a presence. By dark clouds which cover the mountain, only the peaks hanging in mid-air, high, Qingli look. Just put down a tripod, on the corner of his white clouds rolled up a group, more than 10 seconds of the time covered. This Yi Sha, he's white, pure, leaving not only the surprise is not.
Sunrise, the clouds finally retreated again. Sharp Kawagebo is the rising sun shines, the one golden; his wife, accompanied by Goddess Peak in the quiet side.
Have no major trips to photograph. Eating breakfast, waiting for the arrival of the Living Buddha. Tibetans in the Tibet side of the road a small table to sell incense, Pak-chi, and streamer with the rising incense smoke covered the sky. Living Buddha did not say in advance that occurred, but added police car off from Temple and cleared. Ten more have not yet moving, he would ride back to Deqin.
To Tribulus terrestris in the train at two in the afternoon before driving. So we eat a lunch, shopping. I chose the two knives as souvenirs, also bought a Tibetan Nepalese cap, brown, cool look. As usual, returned to Shanghai packaged.
From Deqin to Tribulus terrestris, the highway was built along the Lancang River, along the way to turn the Yunling. Looked at the Lancang River more than 10 meters wide from a few tens of meters wide river into a river. Mountain yellow to red from the soil, covered with green plants. The river has not, such as his name look good, all the way are all yellow, rapids Mashimo. The way, saw the two horseshoe-shaped bend, the river stretching from the hillside is a green, simple is the world outside the pick idyllic park; for the first time saw the Liusuo, each Department has two, but also colorful streamer with the guidelines.
Tribulus terrestris in the famous bridge is only a medium-sized concrete suspension bridge, cross the bridge in the village is Tribulus terrestris. Village built on the hillside, from the bridge to the center of the village church a full 30 minutes away. Along the way, the local review their homework after school and primary school students at the roadside brings us to the only inn in the village "wine Inn." This is a pretty strange name.
Opened the door, in the narrow narrow lane, there are a donkey body sideways blocking the avenue. Carefully around it and into a courtyard. An old man doing carpentry, like a child sleeping in bed. He stopped the hands of the work, we introduced a house, said, "more rabbits, I have a new rabbit cage, was divided them. In just a moment, you first take a break." Thus, on our side his rest, while watching him saw wood, nail, and visited his family's "Zoo", a total of three pigs, two bigger chicken, two chickens, three chickens, one plus one in Tai Wo box of rabbits, a cat, as well as the door when you see a donkey. Was finally completed in about half an hour later.
Dinner is a very good and very easy to eat local food. The staple food is rice beans, and vegetables are fried leek roots, cold mountain tofu and egg. Fried leek root is well worth mentioning, is said to be a combination of local broad-leaved leek roots dug washed, steamed before drying. Look before eating fried with sesame oil, put some salt. Tastes crispy and fragrant.
When we finished, the main talent and his wife for dinner. Drink homemade liquor.
Meal, the owner told us he surnamed Liu, a Naxi people, this year's 65-year-old. Early in Kunming read primary and junior high school. And then read the Teacher's College for two years after graduation to teach in the Deqin II. You have not seen a few years, he was back in the Benz. The house, as well as his sister's house next door were his own cap.
There are 100 small Tribulus terrestris to households, mainly Tibetan, Naxi and Han. Now that the young people out to work at, all mixed marriages, so there has been Lisu, Yi, Bai and so on. 80% of the villagers to Christianity, the rest of Buddhism. The village church was built in 1875 by two French missionaries built, just next door to his house.
After dinner, chatting in his room, he invited us to drink his own red wine. Taste is very Qingchun. He told us that, in addition to red wine, he has also stuffed white wine, highland barley wine, rice wine. So he named the inn as "red wine Inn." Tribulus terrestris in a good geographical location, temporary slope water, climate temperature and humidity, a prolific fruit: every family kinds of grapes; In addition, there Yamanashi, apple, loquat, oranges, bananas and other dozen.
Over and over again he used to do piano mapiri cauda equina pulled two lively Tibetan song. Listening to him read his brother in the Teacher's College, the job finished college, the election of deputies to the NPC on the Diqing; now retired, but still Yunnan Provincial Party Committee member.
We have decided to turn Biluo tomorrow, snow-capped mountains. His wife went about helping us to find the two wizards, are Mr. Liu students. The Jiao A tall race, Chinese, said some better Christian; the other is called dual-power, to Buddhism. Reward they reached an agreement to return home ready to go.
Night, quietly.
April 29th camping in the mountains
Benz in 0720 to visit the church -0810 starting -1.04 thousand hills turn the first one to reach the second -1,200 lunch -1.42 thousand highland pastures, to the wooden house, the house was built -1.5 thousand plus top -1730 Dinner
Tribulus terrestris has been in the church 100 years of history. Mr. Liu, because they live in close proximity, so the key to keeping the door a long time ago took us to visit.
It is a brick building, the door is a courtyard surrounded by Wai House, a two-storey. Even earlier is the lobby entrance, on both sides there are flower beds and tall coconut trees. The entrance of St pool, the above is the bell tower, but no bell. Denglou distance, school of rural scenery, walnut trees, the green of the crops to grow in the quiet. Church of the Virgin Mary for the image, stool that is resting on the floor board.
8:00 arrived, and double-A game and asking us the right to the left of the. The first village along the flat path of more than 10 minutes, then turn right on the village grazing trail began to climb over. Accompanied by a large group of cattle we have come a long a way, that is, to go to alpine pastures. There are a group of young people are also the mountains, to the logging is used to build a house.
The roads are in the rocks began to move through, and then on the one over 50 meters high Suidan Po. This is a difficult way to go today, the first paragraph, danger is steep and slippery. Turn first, after a small hill, with logging, meet again. These trees are more than 40 cm DBH, felled after the peel, do parties, sawn of about 2 meters long, and then carry down the mountain from the human. Path is very narrow, has seen a lot of azaleas.
Days began to rain. At this point all the way downhill, not too tired. And then along a stream and the line, water, large, are also extremely anxious, but Pohuan. Over the first mountain (summer) pasture land, a hillside on 20-30 head of livestock in the pasture and rain poured off of alfalfa and other forage showing a pale yellowish green.
12:00 pm lunch at a gentle slope, a simple bread on the hot pepper sauce plus coke. The wild environment, a half-day campaign, it makes the food so very delicious. In the large trees, ashes beside the water droplets on the leaves down. There are around lying on the ground covered with moss and trees. Fern long after the rain has just come out very tender green, a foot to a high, sharp still rolled up. Water is the source of vitality.
Half an hour later we hit the road. Azalea, streams, the way we arrived accompanied by a second pasture. Was significantly higher elevation, not to judge by the difficulty of breathing, but the vegetation - all were still yellow. Flat slopes on both sides of the stream there are many cabins, do not have roofs, would like to be afraid of the winter snow to board crush bar. We gave up the lower hut, along the stream to continue to go up. We have chosen the other side of the stream a hut.
Primary care is facing her first challenge, from the single-plank bridge on the stream. Here are 15 meters wide and the water looks deep to lead a waist. A tree cut off inadvertently cross the water. Because of rain, no one walked a long time and become slippery. Wizard to find the one about 2 meters long branches, inserted into the water, giving her a third pivot, and finally after a river.
1420 to reach the upper end of the ranch. Began to board covered with beams, giving the house plus the top. More than 20 minutes after the completion of the. We began to break. The sun was out, basking in a small care of the bottom to pants dry. Peak in the mist in the walk through, such as the peak of Huangshan pine in the clouds, like Hui Zhao traditional Chinese ink landscape. Wizard of Health has played a fire, smoke from the roof emerge in the gap, giving it a natural with a hint of unlimited human breath.
The wizard from a nearby pot to find a hiding place, went to Amoy in the river of rice. Dinner is rice on the sauce, there is a packet of mustard on board the aircraft.
1730, Tien is still light, we have done things one day intends to sleep. Were in fact not a very tired, but for tomorrow's climb, an early break is not a bad thing.
Roasted on one side of a very hot fire, while the other side is cold. Lying quietly, drinking red wine brought Liu teacher's house, watching the great launched into Mars on the wood, listening to the sound of an explosion of charcoal, sleep.
April 30 Xuefeng Adventure
0630 Breakfast -0,735 starting -0,815 Guo snow bridge -0945 being buried 2 meters of snow on the roof of lunch breaks -1230 Yakou -1,330 reach the top, with the guide down to the snow line break -1700
Breakfast is porridge made of rice last night, there is no what it's like, fill the stomach. Above the snow line to walk, there is no melting of snow from time to time encounter. We have been walking along the creek where the water will come to this. 0815 to a snow bridge. The so-called concave slopes of the snow bridge is located in the snow, there are streams in the following through. 0855 after the road began to believers together, the snow becomes increased recently. Lu gradually disappearing in the snow not easily identified. We follow the flow of small stocks to go up, soon became a river trekking. 0945 at a rest on the roof. Snow buried the whole house, only directly exposed beams. Wizard who crouched beam, we are looking for a piece of wood shop stood in the snow on the rest. Calculated according to yesterday's overnight hut, where the snow depth has exceeded 2 meters and a half. Since then the road is entirely above the walk in the snow.
Shen days down, Piaoqi the snow. We reached the summit of the snow zone. Lu has been completely out of sight. Wizard just to identify the hill, take the nearest way to the pass forward. Gradient from more than 30 degrees to 50 degrees, 60 degrees looks like. They one by one in front of Cai Chu footprints, we walk along the footprints. Out of snow rolling down along the slope, forming a Snow Cake. Nearly 11 points, the wizard from time to time to stop, and then told us that turning is not passed. Small advisers, How far away from the Peak. Replied that there is probably more than an hour way.
Snow also too big a word. Small care wanted too, we encourage them to say yes. Only the road more than an hour at this time to return, not to waste another day and a half of the time? Moreover, only a return to the starting point. Although in the mountains, we also made the intention of returning empty-handed, and they asked for from the Tribulus terrestris in the shuttle to the vici, but in only one step away from the success of the place, would be reluctant to return to the starting point.
Wizard and went for a while and then stopped, using the Tibetan language was discussed at length. At this point, leave them there is no possibility of progress and had to explain why.
The new product up just under the snow, very loose. A no go on foot to the knee, there are not many places to the thigh. Have come to a semi-slow zone, the wizard came up with yesterday's leftover bread for lunch. We have eaten all the food things, including that a bottle of chili sauce. Negotiations are continuing, we have sent the request from the snow line, has been taken to give way to the summit, and then tell us the direction.
They finally agreed to. Now passed 1230, we continue to move forward. In 1330 arrived in Yamaguchi. Great snow, visibility is only three to 50 meters, 150 meters at the bottom of the wizard, pointing to a ridge, said flip over the ridge, next to the river, walk along the stream at four o'clock one can proceed to the village. For them, this argument, I am not very sure.
End up with accounts starting down the mountain, snow covered everything, and only a few stones exposed snow surface. I will first down, try to walk along the rock, but the snow is very loose, as if there are gaps. Guide in the above that from which the snow away.
So I left the left side of the rock, just to the right step, he punched a slip, there has been Huazhui. I had previously been holding and intend to stick with a home deep into the snow, want to use this stopped down, but without success, had to let go. I can not stop, the only can do is to keep the wrists, feet down. The brain only fell off when you fly off the screen slope. Ten seconds later, finally saw a protruding rock, force in their legs, in the stone stopped. My legs trembled, his arms become soft, heart Daohai can. But I do not know what to do next. I shouted up little care, let her walk the edge (in fact, wrong), slowly underground. But did not answer. Slope of the believers, I do not see her presence.
I adjusted his posture, stand firmer more, everyone wonders how to get this, but do not know what does. After a few minutes to see the shadow queen down from above, and then a small Ku, standing on her Caichu footprints one step down to go. He told us that when you use the snow slope in the walking heel, foot stability of re-moving the next step. So I use this method, small-Gu Yibubuxiang closer. More than 20 minutes later, we have finally come together, slowed down to a point on the slope.
Looking within the meaning of the ridge is not far from the wizard, but how much time and did not come to the end. We started in the 80-degree snow slope down on the distance. Zigzag walk, every step I was forced to heel trampled into the snow, leaving behind a more than 40 centimeters deep footprints, small care of my footprints on the tread down. Sometimes, one foot to the knee down they would have no top, but did not reappear Huazhui heart, gradually, a sense of security. But you can not look down, 80-degree slope, or heartbeat.
In this way step by step down the slope. Later, looking at China Central Television broadcast to climb Everest, they can be seen in the footsteps of climbers on their experience and physical strength. In fact, this kind of action is very laborious.
See the pine trees, in fact only a small cut on top of exposed Shujian. As a judge on the slope of snow over five meters. Standing on a diameter at breast height over 40 centimeters of pine branches fork rest. We firmly embrace heating. I closed her eyes, because I can only see the vast expanse of whiteness of one. A very great snow, surrounded by all the snow; the other is that I might have taken place in a slight snow-blindness. Wet pants and shoes into the water makes me shivering with cold. The vast field, and only Wolia really a little "had each other" feeling.
Open your eyes to continue down the mountain. We must before 17 o'clock the night down to the snow line. Even here, there is no place to sit. Pohuan a little, there are a number of trees, a sense of security addition of a few minutes. I stick with the direction of the shortest path along the washed downhill. At this time no longer need to go in a zig-zag. Straight line, fast, down to the snow line is the only idea in mind. This section is going very fast, the slope appeared bamboo, we have to go down with both hands grasp the bamboo, with out gloves played a big role this time, without fear there will be thorns stabbed the palm. Primary care walk in front of me, carrying a large bag, dragging a tripod, the whole a Canbingbaiqiang image. Suddenly, my left leg buried in the snow, pull it out. Right leg fully bent, but also lack access to fresh. Have to let go in front of a small Ku Pa snow to come back to help me.
Side walk this path with a climbing roll, hands and feet. Fortunately, there is no trouble backpack is very close. See the snow line in a pasture, the grass do not grow back. Scattered bungalows have roofs, this roofing can save the time and physical strength. We rushed the latest in a wooden huts. At this point it is 17 o'clock.
Not open the door, look through the crack into, there is a bolt, and choose to open, or it does not push open the door. Also saw a wooden withstand slowly away, rushed in, threw down backpack. Opposite the door was a fireplace, still sported a large piece of charcoal and ashes. The left and right is the hobble around the two rows of wood, from the ground about 30 cm high, sleep shop. There is a fireplace with the rope hanging bamboo plaque, usually is used to bake things.
The first event was a fire. Whether or not hurry, light a fire for heating is of paramount importance. However, searched every room, that is, there is no dry wood. Only a thin little stick and the two one-meter-long bamboo canes. I was turning two laps in the house outside the house, or there is no dry wood. Smoothly dragged on for a few large pieces of wood, raw fire, you can roast one side while burning. Gu from the bag to find a few small print of these have been useless, and can be used to play with fire. For reasons of economy, we have a one to ignite, but used up all six pieces of paper, fire or no health up, just stick to dry a little. Gu found a small compressed towel. This is what, burning a lot longer, ignited a bamboo frame in the above. We use a wet cardboard when the fan, and finally ignited the small wooden Flanagan. And then the shelves of small pieces of wood, large pieces of wood, took a full 20 minutes before lit a bonfire.
Frozen powerful, squat all started when the ignition is not squat down. Now stand up by. Dry clothes and can not find a replacement had to freshly baked. Underwear is also wet, and they can not all be off, but to let off, the underwear under the pretext of coat roast. The fire is still not very prosperous, very wet wood smoke, the wind blew from the cracks leak in, choking everything together.
Disposable raincoat shop do the plank bed, to do things on the side of the wet stuff on the other side. Bare belly to the fire, warm, spirit began to relax. The two sets of underwear to dry on the spent more than an hour.
Jeans hanging in the fireplace on the top of the ropes have been braving the water vapor, seemed like an instant.
Almost nine times more than all the clothes dry, and wood grilled side while burning, the fire also Wang had. Sleep, wake up, Tian Chai, but also to sleep ... ...
May 1st Mountain and Flowing Water
0740 to leave the cabin, across the river from the right bank of the -0,630 to go back to the starting point, from -0915 to go off the left bank of the snow bridge -1,000 flat and open encounter flood -1,100 bushes on the left bank the right side of road -1,200 interruption is also a ranch began to see the first signs uphill -1,300 encountered -1645 first person, but can not communicate -1,705 meet the second person, tell us here is that the boundary of Di Ma Luo Ma Luo -2.0 thousand to da village, there is no accommodation , there is no dinner -2,300 ate a bowl of rice, a bowl of soup, fried potato - 2 km south Gongshan, "SARS" isolation zone -0.1 thousand Closed
More than seven in the morning wake up, bonfires are still burning. Outside the rain has stopped. Breakfast is only streams and chocolate, although it would take only four hours yesterday, the wizard can be reached in some of the village, but I am not sure how. Hurry to get somewhere early departure is down to business.
Not far from the cottage there is a single-plank bridge that with yesterday's experience, the bridge must be off. So while the line on the bridge. About 20 minutes later to a downhill at a very believers. Gu said the blind alley of small, but this time the other side of the trail is very obvious. We then return to starting point. Yanxi the left bank of the road.
0915 Shiyou to a snow bridge. Small Gu suddenly slid down, this time intentional, quick and a good way to save strength. I tried standing on the decline, and then on to the trail. Road is very obvious that, in places along the river bank 34 meters has been extended forward. Lu is very flat, which is a large open flood, vast on the horizon, even an animal did not.
Then, after a river, road beginning, some ups and downs. But always visible at the foot of the river flowing. Drop began to become large, white spray in the dark green background is very easy to identify.
About 11 o'clock to see a four head of cattle, see people not afraid of, it should be domesticated, and placed on the mountain grazing. We want to have cattle should be someone, approaching the village of the bar. Next, a slope, came to a flood, covered with shrubs. The hills opposite the waterfall hanging down, the sun came out, then faded. Fog up again.
The ground is a swamp, and we move closer to the river, hate quickly found a dead end road. We can only walk through the woods. I now understand why you need a machete into the jungle, because there is no way.
Water's edge is clearly impossible. Then made to the uphill, in the hope to go back to a height of a small road, but easier said than done. Like the roots of thin bamboo like bamboo trellises, fortunately my shoes have steel liner, not afraid. There the water flow down the mountain, interrupted the way forward. We Panzhao Creek across the stream on the recline of the Trunk. Be careful not to wet himself. No knives, more than 50 meters of the road by more than 20 minutes before returning to catch a glimpse of a small road.
Fewer stones on the ground and land on the thick humus left a deep Cattle Footprint, integrated with the rain last night. This leads us to the village the only clue. Once again, we had single-plank bridge, to the right bank. Stream has become a river, flow hurry. If you fall into the water from here, you may look at will be out very far. A huge gap so that you can not find the support areas.
Nearly noon, we arrived at a ranch-like plains. Here the plants have grown very lush, but also saw the familiar huts. We do not have lunch, just in those huts, under the shade of a rest.
Road, this will end. Only the road leading to the wooden structure, there is no way to leave the huts! Primary care began uneasy, "if this is a pasture, grazing the hills of people come here, there is no way of down!"
Left the snow line, there is no danger from the cold, my heart is not worried. Although the walk along the river down to the people will definitely be a place where the water will be imported into the Nu River, I do not doubt. Only water can go where people do not necessarily done. So I let her rest under the eaves, I explore the direction of a probe into the river to see if there are roads.
Roads in more than 30 meters away from the house about a place along the river extends forward. We once again find confidence. Small Gu's face also revealed the reassuring look.
Lu gradually deviated from the creek, along the slope upward. Look to the future, is outside the mountain valley. We are still looking for people to leave traces, in addition to Cattle Footprint, one or two cigarettes and never found anything. The sun shining well, glad that is not such a good time up the mountain the sun, otherwise I'll die Khan.
My sole detached. First half of the shoes, the whole palm of the screw slip out. From the bag to find a rope tied at continue to walk. This is a V-shaped ravine, the slopes on both sides are dense woods. Waterfall on the hillside opposite the hanging, the river flowing at the bottom. At about 13:00 pm saw the stones on the roadside markers. This is obviously the first person to mark in the vicinity there are some boxes filled with explosives. Others mark the words "here to relax the 30 cm." This must be newly constructed paths, away from the crowd nearby.
But not until 16 o'clock before we see a water mill, which in grinding corn flour. I caught one put in the mouth, very hard, but could swallow. 1645 hours, met a middle-aged woman, carrying a large ax Yibing. We are extremely excited, the brain immediately thought of the delicious chicken soup. Tonight we have to sleep properly, first drink a bowl of hot chicken soup, to the kind of chicken stew for three hours.
We came up asked her if she had a place to eat and sleep. She do not know Chinese, but the living one must compete is a good thing. 5:00 for a long time to see the roadside cabin, there is a good looking woman, holding a child.
"What is this place?" We asked.
"Dimaluo."
Dimaluo too familiar names, many people from the Dimaluo Biluo as a starting point to climb over snow-capped mountains of the. We have already approaching the destination of the! She told us to move forward along the road, about half an hour can go to the village, it is the foot of a cottage.
But the left fork in the road, eight hours before entering Dimaluo step by step. People looked at with amazement the two of us. Carrying a large backpack, there is no guide. NIKKO of my white coat has become brown, looking like the Dao Shi and locals, but very tired.
村中没有旅店,可以在村民家中入住;村里也没有饭店,可以在村民家中搭伙,买菜的钱还是要出的。找到一家村民,放下包,买了两份方便面先充饥,我又找了一个村民,很漂亮的女人,让她给我们找只鸡做汤。
这时来了两个村干部模样的人,让我们测体温。山中方一日,世上已千年。非典大爆发,使这个医疗条件落后的边境小村对我们两个来自上海的外来人口,如临大敌。我拿了体温计就放在腋下,却听到小顾与来人发生了争执。小顾要把原来的的37.4度先甩掉,那人却说我们不配合。他收走了我们的温度计,给县里打电话去了。
我们不能离开,也已经走不动了;也不能住下来,睡觉。只好坐在小店前,喝水,等待。小顾在嗑瓜子,我却只想睡觉。我们告诉围观的村民,我们在山里走了三天,已经两天没吃东西了。有人听懂了,把我们的话翻给其他人听,但并没有人有任何反应。我们就像两只疲惫的猎物,被一群猎狗看着。
只有那个原来去帮我们找鸡的女人比较好心,给我们做了一大锅饭,炒了一个洋芋,烧了一大碗番茄蛋汤,还不收我们的钱,但我们最后还是在桌上留了十元。
十一点多时,来自五区的专车终于到了。一辆皮卡,从车上下来两个人,一个穿着迷彩服,戴着口罩,背着怒族人的鲜艳的胯包。另一个人看上去像是武警。医生从胯包里拿出两个口罩让我们戴上,又让我们量了体温,问了一下刚才的情况。然后让我们上车。
我不管他们的“押送”,在车上睡了一觉。到了一扇大门口,他们让我们下车。感觉是进了牢房。在院子当中的布棚下,两名医生又问了一遍同样的问题:从哪里来,出来多久了,体温如何,有何不适,等等。问完了,就给我们指定了一个房间休息。
我很快就睡着了。
5月2日 逃离贡山
0910贡山-1630六库
非典的观察期由两周变为三周,这使得我们不可能在观察点呆到观察期满,取得健康证后继续留在贡山。于是我们决定马上离开。问了医生,他说有九点的班车去六库,他就在车上给我们留了位子。近九点时,我们走出观察站的大门,就象从狱中出来一样,在路边等车。有一名武警站在路的对面看着,直到我们上车,并告诉司机确保我们离开贡山县境。事实上,医生还与贡山县边境的医生打了电话,在离境时,他们还上车来确认有两名上海人在车上,随车出境。
车一路沿怒江峡谷而行,公路外侧就是汹涌的怒江。黄色的江水冲过岸边的石滩,泛起白色的浪花。
一种逃犯的感觉笼罩着我们,并无多大的兴趣看窗外的景色。不时看到的高山瀑布从碧绿的山崖上挂下来,也不能激发我们的兴趣。这里没有溜索,已改成吊笼,在两岸拉起钢索,吊着铁笼。由马达牵引,往来于江的两岸。我只是拍了几张照片而已。
下午四点时,近六库。路边有一个温泉渡假村,司机就停车,告诉我们可以下车住宿,免得在进城时再受体检之苦。
这也是个不错的旅店,作为休息点已很不错了。住下后,很认真地洗了澡,我们两个变白了许多,但换洗衣服已经没有了,只好继续穿着变了色的NIKKO外衣。
晚饭是在对街的小饭店中吃的,点了炖鸡汤,但明显比不上飞来寺的。也罢,广东人煲汤是有名的,没法与他们比。
实际上这里很安静,四天的跋涉已非常辛苦,睡得也香。
5月3日 远眺片马边境
1030出发去片马-1400抵片马,体检-1500午餐-1620去边境-1700到片马抗英纪念碑-1900晚餐,蘸水罗非鱼-2100上车去大理
逃离贡山使我们无法看到怒江第一湾的雄姿,片马之行可能是我们此行最后的一个亮点,却不想成了一次六小时的行车骑马观花之行。
从六库到片马要翻越高黎贡山。从网上查到的资料中表明我们将看到高山瀑布,植被的垂直变化。但我们的运气并不太好。天很阴,近山口时小雨有雾,连“片马垭口”碑前留影都成问题。但我们确实穿越了“高黎贡山国家级自然保护区”,路过姚家坪的“小熊猫繁育基地”,经历了全程最严格的防非典检查:洗手、登记身份证、行程笔录、联系电话。在卫生院量了体温,回答了二三十个有关感冒症状描述的问题,还包括司机的身份证和手机。
沿公路下到十六号界桩时,已是下午四点。但边境警察就是不让我们到边境线,说那里是警戒区,只有办理出国手续后才能去。我们努力与班长商量也无成果,只好从边防所的门前远眺三百米外的国界。
返程中参观了片马抗英纪念塔和纪念碑,没有见到听命湖,镇上的人说要带上干粮走三天才能看到,当然只好放弃。片马的经济主要是木材进口及粗加工,一路上并无游客,当地的依维柯也只是运些当地人,此外就是载重十吨以上的大卡车装着原木或板材向昆明方向而去。心中想,难道市场上所谓的缅甸进口实木就是这样运进来的?
在离六库六公里的一家店中吃罗非鱼。罗非鱼本不是当地特产,但引入后养殖很成功,再向外输出。当地还有一种调料,称为“蘸水”,是一种干辣椒粉,极辣且鲜。当地的做法是水煮整鱼,然后用鱼汤调蘸水,加盐加葱,蘸着吃,味极美。
晚饭后赶到六库汽车站,乘九点的车去大理。车离六库约三四公里有边境检查站,两名士兵上车检查身份证,问我们这时怎么还出来旅游,“难道不怕非典?”本想做答,但话到嘴边,又不想说了。旅游也是生活的一部分,并不会因为有非典就可以随便取消。当然非典也为旅游带来了许多麻烦,顺其自然也就是了。
5月4日 大理看病
0600到大理,宿“南昭招待所”-2040到“大理市第一人民医院”看病
车到大理,防非已经开始采用耳内测温的先进仪器了。
一夜的颠簸终于使我的胆彻底混乱。路况差,车速快,颠得我胆绞痛复发,早上抵大理时,疼痛使我直不起身来。就在车站对面的南昭招待所(原77263部队招待所)住下。一整天,我寄望于自行缓解,小顾也不断地给我按摩。情况并不如意,疼痛几次反复,不断加剧,到了晚上也没有好转的迹象,而我已有超过三十六个小时没有休息,体力也已用尽。于是又过街去医院看病。药费不贵,动作也很快,只是其用药方法实在让人心惊胆颤。 6542在上海只用一支,肌注,但在大理却是四支,静脉滴注。效果当然很快,只十分钟,疼痛就已缓解,睡去。直到凌晨三点,也吊完了所有的盐水。小顾一直在身边赔着我,累得趴在床头打瞌睡。
5月5日 昆明的同学
1005离开大理-1645抵昆明-与同学会面
途中无话,因车祸使行程延长了两个多小时。例行的测体温之后,终于到了昆明。
我们去了小顾在昆明的同学家。此人姓丁,是小顾在小学时的同学。在昆明承包崇明社办企业驻昆办事处。现已有房有车,并把父母接到昆明,享受当地宜人的气候。
5月6日 胜利大逃亡
1100飞机离开昆明-1400抵沪
连日来的非典阻击战不停地测体温,使我在进入机场后,感到了一种胜利大逃亡的气息。
昆明的机场空然无人,我们在机场买了两束鲜花,白玫瑰和抚郎。
上海的机场也一样空旷。十余分钟就把人群散尽。不像从西安回来时,等了一个多小时才乘上出租车
到家的时候,屋里还是很乱,十分莫生的感觉。必竞离家已有近二十天,在非典的高峰期经历了这次难忘的旅行。
Author: herbertw