Tours Guizhou and Yunnan and a half months alone lines (1)
You alone are my nine years of adhering to the traditional activities. You can experience the wandering alone and enjoy solitude.
Travel together to Guizhou and Yunnan, two provinces with the first in the Southwest, and the adjacent; two by other 29 provinces and autonomous regions have been here before, only not yet been involved in Guizhou and Yunnan.
Shanghai Mountain Soul outdoor club friends know my intention, I sent 13 Zhang Yunnan pictures make me very popular with encouragement. Access to the Ctrip travel-related information online, determine his own line. Departure from Wuhan Huangguoshu Waterfall → Guiyang → → → Lijiang → Kunming → Ruili Shangri-La. Guizhou and Yunnan provinces, in order to focus on Yunnan. Highlight the two World Heritage Tours Yunnan: Lijiang, the world's historical and cultural heritage, the Three Parallel Rivers World Natural Heritage Area (Center for Shangri-La).
Starting from July 1 to July 15 to come back. The specific schedule and related costs are described below:
The evening of July 1 from 10:42 aboard k109 Wuchang starting the next day at 5 pm to Guiyang. (Hard sleeper 262 yuan +5)
Lived near the Grand Cross of the Shun Cheng Shin Street, No. 20, Friends of Guest House, single room 30 yuan a day (Zhu Liangtian and a half, 75 million)
July 3 to participate in Hongyan Travel (Guiyang Railway Station Exit out of the east about 100 meters walk) organization Huangguoshu, Tiantai Mountain, Miao Village tour. (160 yuan)
July 4 morning walking tour of Guiyang city, looking Jiaxiu Lou, Grand Cross of the Square, the People's Square and so on. Afternoon break.
July 4 evening 7:30, multiply 2079 times car to Kunming, there is no sleeper, only the hard seat. (65 million)
At 7:30 on July 5 to Kunming. Exit immediately to the west by the railway station to go out of Ruili, long-distance sleeper cars (191 million) 8:00 start. At 6:30 on July 6 to Da Ruili. Live in the South Street 2, Limin Mao Hotel, standard room 40 yuan a day. (Live for a day and a half, 60 million)
July 6 to participate in Myanmar's Muse, Namkham tour. (170 yuan)
Foot the morning of July 7 Ruili city visiting the border trade Street, Jumbo City farmers market. Afternoon break.
At 6:00 p.m. on July 7, by sleeper bus to Dali. (97 million)
At 5:00 on July 8 to Dali. 7:30 by Iveco to Lijiang (35 million). 4 hours later arrived in Lijiang.
Live in the Old City, Lane 76, small peak Jishan youth Inn. The pavilion in a shop 15 yuan a day, before and after living for four nights. (60)
Stroll the afternoon of July 8th Street. Xuan Ke evening under the auspices of Naxi ancient music appreciation concerts. (50)
July 9 this morning went to Wood House. With Hubei privilege card to enjoy half-price concession for the elderly (20 million). Afternoon stroll Street.
The morning of July 10 to a democratic way travel agencies do Yunling Shangri-La Two-Day Tour of the procedures, contract, paid the money (240 yuan, 10 yuan with life insurance coverage). Afternoon stroll Street.
At 9:00 on July 11 by China and Pakistan go to Shangri-La. You Changjiang first corner on his way to look at Tiger Leaping Gorge mouth. 1:30 to reach Shangri-La. After lunch, tour Songzanlinsi, Napa lake and museums.
Tour the morning of July 12 are all lakes. The afternoon return to Lijiang. Young people are still living the small peak Inn. Square Street Reception Center that evening to buy a travel ticket back to Kunming the next day (150 million) and scheduled on the 14th back from Kunming Wuhan k110 hard sleeper ticket (paid deposit 200 yuan, to Kunming to get votes).
At 8:30 on July 13 during the long sea terminal start the evening 8:30 to Kunming. Get off to Beijing Road, Kunming Lake Hotel, on the third floor reception center to receive tickets. (Padded Ticket 202 yuan) (a total of 372 +30 million)
Welcome live in hostels (15 per day).
July 14 early morning stroll near Beijing Road, mushrooms, and a wholesale food market. 9:21, k110 away from Kunming.
At 15:30 on July 15 back to Wuhan. (Car trip ticket costs amounted to 2057 yuan. Eat, shopping outside.)
Tours Guizhou and Yunnan and a half months alone lines (2)
Before starting, we often will do a lot of understanding of the place to do a lot of research, because the destination is not the famous monuments. However, we will journey to be very little concern, because all the way through the landscape of mostly anonymous. Years of traveling experience tells me to enjoy the famous mountains and rivers is a pleasure to enjoy the scenery even more obscure is a discovery. I often enjoy the journey as nameless landscapes of classroom learning.
We are in their sleep after Changsha, Xiangtan city in Hunan wake up is Loudi. Toward western Hunan, the train winds before the line, got into the mountains from the hills formed array, through caves, cross rivers. Many of the mountains residential buildings, arched windows, octagonal door, rather pay attention to. In the wall to see the "wholesale Guizhou lacquer" message, although not to Guizhou, Guizhou has been able to feel.
Driving through Lianyuan saw a dirty black r. - Lianshui; car off Lengshuijiang, owned the water is very clear, there are two fishing boats in the reef between the wavering. Landscape displays the pollution, but also displays the pollution control efforts.
Trains through Xinhua, which brought a lot of homes have high horse wall, roof on both sides to make horn-shaped tilt, roof, there are some porcelain mascot, in the middle seems to be a sun, inside the embedded a picture of Mao Zedong, or a "blessing" is used. Commemorates Mao Zedong, or Mao Tse-tung pray for blessing their homes and their homes? In Mao's hometown, the revolutionary culture is through the hands of ordinary people, with such a form of local customs and achieve a return to traditional culture.
Hill grew deeper and deeper, the water more and more urgent. Cloud in the water into a fog, fog in the mountains into the clouds. Mist-shrouded, the sun shining, very spectacular. More than 10 consecutive passes through a long tunnel connecting Dong Dong, the window has been fog smoke, hazy landscape, through the small station called "Smoke Creek", worthy of the name.
Railway close to the mountain, slope pressed the road. Landslides during the rainy season is definitely the most railway headache thing. However, such a road slope protection works quite well, multi-stage solid reinforced concrete walls sealing the roadside slopes, stand like a wall of rock has a huge Optimus Prime it locked, and some sections like moving train passing through the lock at the Three Gorges Dam , the security is fully guaranteed.
Driving through Yuanjiang large estuary, the mountains have not looked up to see River, but overlooking the mountains getting higher and higher, deeper and deeper valley. Electrified train lines such as climbing only slowly run. Climbing away from the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau and Vietnam should be more near. After a Huaihua, there has been some hanging Xiangxi Te foot wooden home, with wooden pillars support the bottom three feet from the ground, presumably to avoid moisture. Six feet above the roof away from the house, leaving a four ventilated viewing platform, is probably enjoy the cool summer casual lies. Bamboo should be set off, elegant leisure, very poetic to see distant mountains, such as the shading has caused the ink, infinite Painting.
I do not know when to enter, Guizhou, and because there is no see the "Welcome to the Guizhou Province," the banner, perhaps in off the mountains hold water Sinko shortly after the roadside a "Welcome to the Huaihua road of peace" when the , into the Guizhou. It seems seems to be a bad Zhang Yang Guizhou provinces.
My car was parked Yuping, a beautiful green everywhere, people pleasing. Guo Chen-yuan, see the river a bridge, the bridge has a central pavilion pretty tall and straight, and I feel stir. Drifting away, pavilion quickly disappearing into the mountains in Guizhou, the mountains are constantly introducing new landscape, pleasing to note that make people excited, this is Guizhou. Guiyang is coming.
Tours Guizhou and Yunnan and a half months alone lines (3)
Huangguoshu Waterfall is the longing of my life. The afternoon of July 2, out of Guiyang station, a travel agency staff Hongyan initiative introduced me to Huangguoshu day trip, I accompanied him to the station next to the travel agency listed post office east of the problem is a regular travel agency, quotes 160 , which is not high, so they organized a Jiaoqian procedures.
The next day 7:00 geese travel agents to send light to send me and a few FIT into the road in an Iveco Ruijin to Huangguoshu. A total of 20 individual guests, from Shandong, Shanghai, Jiangsu, Fujian, Yunnan, Hubei and other provinces. This shows that people who aspire to have a broad Huangguoshu.
A rare sunny day. "Heaven on the 3rd, sunny, ground level without three years." Yes, from childhood to learn the basic geography to form an impression of Guizhou. Can be embarked on in the sun to Huangguoshu is our luck. The way the morning saw a Miao Village in Anshun. Lunch, everybody is satisfied. After lunch, arrive at Huangguoshu Zhenning County tickets 90 yuan, we have a unified ticket from the tour guide Xiao Ping. Xiaoping gave us a half-hour free activity, although the time is not long, but better than walking a line with one or more free.
Huangguoshu Falls, 74 meters higher than the first of the Changbai Mountain in Northeast to 10 m high waterfall. Wide and 81 meters higher than Jiuzhaigou's Snow Day Long Falls, more than 20 meters wide. Is Asia's largest waterfall.
It is said that the dead of night, the ten-mile outside can hear the roar of the falls. We are the door, the door waiting for the tourists out of the noisy sound, they heard in the distance came the deep hum of the buzzing sound.
Through the thick bush, to see we are facing a long valley, from the outside in a gradual contraction, like a giant speaker. Speaker at the end, Po is the right one Huangguoshu Falls. Huangguoshu Falls gives the impression of the special ring may be related to the effects of the Laba valley. A powerful flow of water from the mountain top of the devaluation, the devaluation of the process, the impact on rocks, scouring the rock, the last to fall into the bottom of the Black Dragon Pool, with a staggering amount of collision forces to the deep end with overturned Heilongtan , rolled up huge waves, waves to millions of tiny water droplets, thrown over the Black Dragon, beat the waterfall on the opposite hillside to watch the people on the cheek. Soratani acoustic, Great Falls shock rock, shock waves pushed forward after the pit as well as the waves thundered out progressively in the lonely valley of the pools and the sound reverberated on all sides of the echo from the inside to be several times larger. Gives the audio-visual as well as hearts with great shock.
In the waterfall across the slope on the left of the woods, there is a Xu Xia-ke like. Wuyi Mountain in Fujian and Guangxi Hechi and other places, has repeatedly seen his statue. But the statue is still left me a deep impression. Xu Xia-ke sat cross-legged on a lotus-like stone head, left hand stroking his right leg, supporting the upper body tilted to the left front of the first micro-Yang, toward the upper left corner, as if watching with rapt attention, and praise the magnificent Great Falls momentum, as if in the attentively listen to and enjoy the roar of the voice of nature, seems to revel in the nature of good fortune, and with this natural blend. Here Xu Xia-ke no longer just a wearing a bamboo hat, pedal straw sandals, hand-held umbrella monk, but a natural beauty of the pursuit, exploration, discovery and appreciation of who is a great travel pioneer.
Huangguoshu Falls is not only audible to watch, but can feel with your skin. Heat of the summer, visitors down to the valley, you can feel the cool breeze blowing off waterfalls very cozy; in waterfall side, you can feel the spray and mist of beating the breeze, very Shuangqi; in waterfalls on both sides, you can feel the Fei Liu Mashimo when the cold pressing and the droplets when dashing dazzling.
Huangguoshu Falls is also very fun. People took to gorge on the iron chain was placed on the bridge, shaking Akira ah ah near misses, in Great Falls to experience the embrace of Lvxianruyi's nice to feel. Over the bridge went down the hillside path waterfall edges, which are coiled up in the hanging rock waterfall side, emerged in a cave, next to the late painter Mr. Liu Haisu written by three characters: water curtain tunnel. Drilling into the cave as if the belly falls, the dark picture. Caves up and down, secretly obviously, throughout the Great Falls. Walking in the inside, at the foot of a stone water slide, surrounded by a tick, the outside is the brawl brawl. A number of chimney and gaps in a waterfall view from the waterfall behind the viewing window and observation deck. Lian through the waterfall to see the landscape outside, do not have some fun. Where the kids yelling in the water curtain tunnel can be happy about where they really did a Monkey King.
Take a look at it is almost time rushed to the export of a collection of office. Had only spent 1 hour and 20 minutes, I was ahead of schedule to collection. After everybody got together, all the beautiful scenery of Huangguoshu wow.
Tours Guizhou and Yunnan and a half months alone lines (4)
Tiantai Mountain in Guizhou Pingba County, 13 kilometers away from Pingba, the relative height of only 60 meters, although not high, very famous. Tiantai Mountain, cliffs on three sides, there is the temple Wulong Temple, built in the Ming Dynasty, dating back 600 years. Is a national key cultural relics protection units. With a typical temple, the temple is different from both as a religious and cultural buildings, is a military building, is a Yifu when closed, Wan Fu Mo open castle. Yes Chu Yuan-chang strengthening border control, development of border areas, unity, the product of remote ethnic minority policy.
On Wulong Temple is only one road, Temple wall, tall and thick, Temple has three times the bottom-up building space, a very steep slope on the stone steps circling the monastery connected to a whole. Stone steps through the three doors that can be closed were outside. Peak has water all year round without a break. Is easily defensible. Today, history is here opened its mystery of the iceberg.
Wulong Temple, also known as Dragon tunbao. Tunbao people claiming to be near the people from Yingtianfu (Nanjing) and today, Jiangsu and Anhui Zhejiang region is the first Ming soldiers sent to the descendants of this settlement. While they differ from the local ethnic minorities, but also different from other Han Chinese. They wore came from so far south in the vicinity of the Ming dynasty costumes, shoes, retains many of the customs of the Ming Jiangnan area. I also Nanjing, in the Dragon tunbao to see the first generation of tunbao brought kinds of people from the Nanking under the ginkgo tree branches and leaves are still lush, mid-fruiting. This is not the result of the season, branches are festooned with red tape knot suddenly feel warm. Ginkgo biloba tree is a kind of longevity, Nanjing has always regarded as a sacred tree ginkgo tree, ginkgo tree reverence, kneel before ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba tree to pray for blessings bestowed Shou. Childhood when the family was always there for me all on a red rope neck holidays, the door would lead me to the west a large ginkgo tree before burning incense, and then kowtow, and then removed some time wearing the red rope, fastened with a small tile, asking me to throw energetically to the tree, red ropes hung in the high trees, the family were relieved. This way, I see the tree covered with a red rope, and now seen in the tunbao very similar.
Tunbao I very much admire people, these ancient warriors Production and Construction Corps, in order to ancient China's security and prosperity, they bid farewell to the then capital of a family and with his family, came to the year in remote wilderness, the more advanced the then Central Plains culture and the production techniques spread to here, from generation to generation to take root here, and the harmonious coexistence of all ethnic groups, for the development of southwest Guizhou, the building has made its own contribution.
Xiao Wu is a tunbao girl guides, Nanjing, she is just an abstract concept, I asked her what the wishes of Nanjing, said she thought for a while to have the opportunity to go look at the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum in Nanjing. Why do want to go to Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, she did not say. Is it because a buried inside of her family had decided the fate of the emperor for hundreds of years, or because only paid homage Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, in order to express their ancestors generations tunbao people and homeland. She did not make this choice on the ancestors of complaints, nor 600 years did not give them back to the city to develop policies to take care of the history of the blame, she was even a bit beyond the historical sense of pride and civic pride, because they withstood the 600 tests for many years the most sense of the nation, most of the Nanjing national sense of responsibility to future generations. Although there are no flowers, no honor, history is not only the history of Guizhou, in particular the history of Nanjing tunbao should keep in mind that today's Nanjing If tunbao as a patriotism education base to open the history of patriotism and vision, development scattered outside of the historical and cultural resources, I think it is very meaningful.
Tours Guizhou and Yunnan and a half months alone lines (5)
Ruili is a border with Myanmar, southwestern Yunnan, a border town. Streets are not wide, floor is not high, not a lot of pedestrians. Middle of the street lush banyan street trim of coconut, palm, and elegant in Bambusa Multiplex Dianran an attitude of southern scenery.
I was the coach sat day and night, in the early morning of July 6 to 6:30 from Kunming Da Ruili's. As the time difference, where in fact higher than the mainland late in an hour, so although 6:30, very few pedestrians on the streets, hotels, shops did not open the door, along the south d street to move forward, around 7:00, they finally found an open - Hotels ride out the door, so the registration stay there, while enroll today to Myanmar Muse, Namkham two cities a day trip, paid 170 yuan. 8:00 left, to a tour guide Xiao Zhang, use motorcycle to take me to the City Tourism Office photo entry and exit permits (no additional charge), around 9 o'clock, Xiao Zhang to run the relevant documents, by mini buses coming to pick me leave. Have heard from Yunnan is China's least temper of the people (which means things slow, lack of time concept), the efficiency of Ruili, Yunnan, who gives me a new view of temper.
Xiao Zhang The Myanmar side said some of the limitations of the visitors photography. Romans do, do not get as saying. Successfully passed the inspection, from the Ruili Jiegao Jiangnan door out of customs, our exit procedures and immigration formalities Myanmar handled entirely by tour guides. Myanmar Myanmar, the reception unit is the Muse treasures travel company. This is the one operated by the Myanmar Chinese companies. Manager heard I was from Wuhan, come out to meet Myanmar's self-introduction knives Chinese name, Chinese name Jiao Li homesick, native of Hanyang, his father 50 years ago with the Nationalist troops to Burma, Burmese mother, he was born in Burma, 98 years been back to Wuhan. He also has an aunt in Yichang, Hubei. In Myanmar, to see a successful career of the fellow, or make people happy. It has been met by drawing the relationship between the villagers to sell shoddy goods, which suffered a major loss, but I saw this fellow did not sell anything to me.
China Tour guide us to the Myanmar side Xiao Yang, Xiao Yang is also Burma's Chinese, and a meeting on Burma to me selling banknotes, coins and stamps, 50 yuan a bag, in order to Liugejinian I bought a bag. On the bus, she taught us a few common Burmese: Thank you, (brother in law come to your mother); You're welcome (your mother did not come I come); on the toilet (beaten); Good morning, (the United States Old Bus) drivers ( high blood pressure) ... ... all the laughing and joking in the imitation. I think a few steps from the language quite different, really out of the country has.
In accordance with arrangements to visit the morning of Muse in the afternoon visit Namkham. Muse and Namkham is a small town in northern Burma in two, separated by the same elite league Ruilijiang and Ruili. Although all small town, a great contrast. With our eyes, like a town of Muse, Namkham like a township, construction and size can not be compared with the Ruili.
Muse has a street, middle of the street there is a green belt, motorcycles are more pedestrians, many more than the integration of women dress, men also have unified skirt. There are deep-set eyes and big nose skin black man, potbellied dress, flower dress unification walking in the streets Xiao Yang said that it was Indians, came here to do business. Myanmar and India are neighbors, historically the same as a British colony, so people had frequent contacts. Xiao Yang took us to the mall, and the Wuhan Hanzheng Street similar, only the very Hanzheng Street corner, there is no customer, Xiao Yang enthusiastically to our shopping guide, we know where most of the goods from the Ruili approved for, so I just take a look at both. Asked Xiao Yang, before we know the people here are generally monthly wages 10000-20000 Burmese currency, the renminbi and the ratio of 1:100 kyat. Those who have not many. Running the streets are mostly second-hand Japanese cars, the police standing on street Shouzhi whistle with a whistle to divert traffic.
In Muse, the focus is to visit Deer Temple. Unter den Linden Urn Emerald Buddha, carved with large-scale. Deer Temple is a temple, but also an orphanage. When we go in just when the kids alms to come back, we saw a dozen of the little monks dressed in orange cassock, staffing a bowl, in silence with a row of columns, in single file Entering. Myanmar is a Buddhist country, every village has a temple monk boys must be getting married when the two monks. Influenced by Buddhist culture is being affected by the Myanmar people do not ask too much of the material life, fed on the line, more than money Xiumiao, they burn Buddha on a charity. So, with fewer people crimes. Temple, Buddhism seems to have become the backbone of social stability in Myanmar. There are several temples door begging women and children, Xiao Yang said that they are refugees in northern India.
From Muse to Namkham, is a narrow rural roads, residential areas on both sides focused on the road, mostly to do with the Luxi wall, although simple, but the ventilation ventilation, suitable for hot and humid climate here. Because Luxi is not strong, year after year had to renovation of residential buildings. What is intriguing is that people in the Luxi out on even prepared a variety of patterns, so that the primitive dwellings show a particular kind of simple beauty. Residential buildings against a background of vast fields of rice growing very well. The picture largely reflects today's Burma is mainly an agricultural social reality. On the way over two streams, rivers, respectively, hobble around in Iron Bridge framework, the framework there is no fixed upper berth of a few boards, the driver to drive carefully in the past. Xiao Yang said that this was left behind by the Japanese invasion of Burma bridge. I understand that she is not praised the aggressor durable repair of the bridge, but lamented 60 years changed little.
Namkham markets much worse than the Muse, decent housing small, relatively messy streets, fruit vendors placed in the middle of the road selling. However, the temple is not less than the Muse, pagoda higher than the Muse, Muse statues than the big Buddha cultural content-rich than the Muse. Street, where a Buddhist temple in the central shrine, shrines on the high-sat a huge golden Buddha, next to the hanging of a picture that year the Japanese bombing of the temple after the shooting, and the ruins of a stone Buddha statues sit. Namkham thought it was the bodhisattva spirit appeared and statues fried not bad. After the war people are actively donate money to the Stone Buddha laced with gold, the Temple of repair larger and more spectacular than before the bombing. Golden Buddha has actually become the Burmese people's suffering as a spiritual symbol of strong and indomitable. Namkham Buddha Buddhist stories for the most part the contents of groups of Buddhist statues arranged into a story of a scene, Buddha's shape is relatively close to life, liveliness, the image of different, quite personality, rather close in humanity, rich in taste. So that those of us who is completely unfamiliar with Buddhist scriptures, visiting them is also great interest. Baita in Namkham Grandpeak near Xiao Yang us to look at a group of monk as a leader a lot like Zhao Benshan? Really like. I ask Xiao Yang, "You are familiar with Zhao Benshan?" Xiao Yang said, "We are also watching Chinese TV." Perhaps this is also a statue of the shapers of a fan Zhao Benshan it. Exotic is what you have me, I have you. In the radio link, especially in today's world.
Skimming over the surface to the end of Muse, Namkham swim back to Ruili, as if already left for a very long time to see the pillar, especially the pro-door. Tour not only let me up close and friendly neighbor of Myanmar, but also imperceptibly deepened my own country for granted aspects of some of the original understanding of and feelings.
The last day tour in Ruili, a Southeast Asian style garden dinner, all of today's traveling people, regardless of the team gathered together, eating, watching folk dance performances. And then by team guide to all vehicles returned to their place of residence, respectively. The people along the road I was walking back to the hotel, from the style garden to the south d street, basically came from the south-east of Ruili, the northwest through the whole city. At dusk, regardless of rural or urban areas, everywhere, orderly and peaceful atmosphere, the beautiful border town has a good law and order environment, come here to travel, security is completely not worried.
Tours Guizhou and Yunnan and a half months alone lines (6)
Lijiang is the focus of my current excursion destination. Ruili no direct Lijiang car, go to Dali and transfer. At 18:00 on the July 7 start from Ruili, the next morning 5:00 arrival of Shimonoseki station, Dali, Dali was also sleeping in the night rain, the temperatures low, the driver so that we continue to rest in the car. Dali to Lijiang cars, luxury cars 9:00 start, in order to save time, I boarded the 8:00 start of the Iveco, 4 hours after I left the streets in Lijiang.
Come to find a place to live, I think we should buy a ticket to live in the ancient city where to live outside the city have to buy a ticket for each entry. Jiangsu and Anhui and Jiangxi in the past travel experience of a village town, the village into the town, the first ticket. Old Town of Lijiang is the world's cultural heritage, the fares will be a lot of money. But I could not find how in the ancient city at the entrance to a place selling tickets, the original need not buy a ticket into the Old Town of Lijiang. Where they live are so different.
In the ancient city where turn, the ancient residence in the inn has attracted me, and a small courtyard next door alleys, carved wooden brick floor, quiet bar. Garden more spacious and bright, relatively light transmittance breathable, more civilian-oriented, more humane. Unlike the ancient dwellings so rich in Anhui and Jiangxi official gas or gas supplier, then the heavy, so dull, so good-looking and good living. In order to experience the ancient city, I chose the Jade river Jishan Lane 76, small peak of youth Inn in the Attic a hut, accommodation cheap, only 15 yuan a night. During the day, opened the curtains overlooking the scenery below: corridors hanging yellow corn, red lanterns; in the yard, one or potted loose on a 20, 20 Root-stent; two big white cat lying on the rattan chair on a small white dog was walking towards the cat ... ... the evening, listening to night rain curtains can be lying on Tamagawa, and the sound of running water.
Naxi Lijiang is a place inhabited by people of all nationalities in Northwest Yunnan is also a fair place. To Lijiang, Naxi ancient music is a must-listen. Old Town is the tangible cultural heritage, intangible cultural heritage of ancient music. Booked a night at the inn 8:00 Naxi ancient music concert tickets, 100 yuan and 80 yuan in the middle of pigeon-holing, I bought a 50 yuan ticket is San Xi, it is necessary to find the edge of their seat in, I am almost in advance a hours, to stay in Taiwan, accounting for the edge of a seat. Many people come to half-listen to ancient music, half want to see the president of Xuan Ke presence. I also do so.
8 points less than in the blue flowers gown, red flowers or blue flowers vest Waichuan a group of old gentleman in hand the national musical instruments, in the young actor's arm, the trembling climbed to Taiwan to. For ages never occur again, so many antique-class musicians to sit the national stage, awe-inspiring. Audience enthusiastically applauded.
8 o'clock sharp, Xuan Ke stage. He's like a middle-aged, quite sturdy, face micro-black, wearing glasses, dressed in a blue gown to wear, do not see that he is already 74 years old. He glanced field there are some vacancies, humor, says: "Music and equality before the performances start on time now." Face the market some foreign guests, he repeated in English once (after each time he bilingual speech) . He said that does not just belong to the Naxi Naxi ancient music, the content is mainly Han Chinese court music, the Ming Dynasty Hongwu years spread to Naxi, Naxi well preserved from generation to generation. After listening to his presentation here, playing not only aware of a remote minority Xiaojiabiyu, but almost lost the brilliant pearl of the Chinese nation. He said with amusement that he did not know that the national operator, so named Xuan, because ancestors in the Ming Dynasty from the Anhui Xuancheng to be here. Han should be counted, but in a few hundred years, how many other ethnic groups to enter his family, he did not know. He only knew his grandmother are Tibetans. He said China's various ethnic groups are you have me, I have you.
"The first music" gossip "by Li Longji." He asked the audience "Do you know Li Longji Who are you?" Did not answer. He said, "is Yang Yuhuan's wife." Bottom no response. "Is the Emperor Xuanzong, the Tang emperor." Active response below, many people will be given carefully, "the Tang emperor." "Well, show started."
A hoarse voice came from the band stand the depths: "gossip." Play began, young people are playing a very spirited, middle-aged man playing a very steady, and some old man with eyes closed Gently rocking the body while playing, they indulge in playing music in the. Music concert was great momentum, solemn mischievously. With Taoist music on color to convey the mystery of the year Li Longji palace for the peaceful completion of the mood to celebrate.
"A second song is" Gold and Sand ", the word author Li Yu." Xuan Ke, introduced Lee emperor and his achievements in literature and art after the tragedy of life, focused on the first song after the word, that is in accordance with the requirements of a certain song lyrics is very difficult to create, the modern One everyone is familiar with the artist will be entered for Hong Yi, he has a song is a song filled with a foreign word, very popular. Xuan Ke and then softly began to sing "Farewell": "Changting, the old road ... ..." Grand were singing along together, the atmosphere is very warm. As usual, by playing that did not appear before the hoarse voice of the band stand the depths of an announcer: "Gold and Sand", "One River and Wind", "Shan Poyang" ... ... to give people a strong sense of the historical vicissitudes.
"Gold and Sand" is the side played while singing, performing over, in order to deepen our impression that Xuan Ke is also a soloist of "Gold and Sand," the end of the section, a warm welcome. In the performances interspersed with chorus, solo, ensemble, solo and so on, Lost Horizon, introduced into the world of these ancient music to dozens of countries, thus enhancing people of all countries have a long history of understanding of Chinese culture by people of all countries and dignitaries welcome to get media in various countries spoke highly of the situation. Foreign newspapers that it is really the music had not been contaminated, and some think this is a sound of peace. So that we an eye-opener.
Program also arranged a 84-year-old man chanting Zhou Dun-yi's "Reminiscence", very rhythm and texture, giving to the United States of inspiration and enjoyment. Xuan Ke endorsement of this ancient way of reading a soft spot, he also recited the "Everlasting Regret" part of it. He argued in the traditional culture, we spent a memorable night.
Looking at the entire field ancient music concerts, the real protagonists and soul Xuan Ke. He is also the stage of a huqin hand, but his main role is to guide young and open mind ancient music, narration musical instruments, explain the history of ancient music will explain, explain themselves and the mentality of ancient music form lasting bonds. That he put up an ancient music toward the audience, the audience accepted as an indispensable bridge between ancient music. An audience, he stood up on the excitement, he has been constantly and audience interaction, set off one after another to a climax. Lost Horizon, who, as the collation of ancient music, as the organizers and leaders of ancient music, and his achievements and his ups and downs (class struggle, he was a miscarriage of justice 21 years of age) and the legendary life, and his insights on life and philosophy, and his legendary family history, and mystery of the human environment are inextricably linked to Lijiang. For me, this night is: insights ancient music, history, sentiment, sentiment life, sentiment Lijiang.
Understanding of Lijiang not be unconcerned about the history of the Naxi, Lijiang, can not but concern about the history of the development process has played an important role to play, had been ruled for several centuries Lijiang Naxi toast wood clan. 9th morning, I went to the Wood House - Wood Naxi chieftain's palace. The wood is now 97 years later, the government is mainly re-designed built. Most of the old wood was destroyed by the Qing Dynasty government, and the rest were destroyed in the Cultural Revolution. Now the construction of wooden House the basis of the existing historical data, there are people today on the government's understanding of wood, of course, ultimately, the tourism industry needs. About 400 years ago, Xu Xia-ke was visiting, and released "palace of Korea, to be king."'s Lament. Wood House is the new focus reflects the eight Chinese characters. Notes in a feudal society, class is extremely tight, not king to "to be king," is to lose his head for. Wood House why she was so impressive to repair luxury? Xu Xia-ke that "cover large send U.S. troops, then the bow by the rein, the division returned to the Yelang from the male, so no big Bingxian from generation to generation, and mine alone produced Sheng, and are advised of their rich crown princely county cloud." Passage to the effect that today's words it is the wood's toast to pursue a policy of peaceful development, it became toast of the richest man in that area. This is one. Second: Naxi has been working with central government maintained good relations, and won the trust of the central authorities. Naxi have 2000 years of history. There White Wolf Wang Xian Shi Han Luoyang, Shanxi, said Mosha Yi, Tang Chao more analysis in order to suppress the Nanzhao Dali, Song No. Flower Ma, Yuan set Lijiang Road, Ming Cixing wood, the World for a long toast. Old Wooden House on the establishment of the Ming Dynasty. Ming is the toast of the Naxi Wood's heyday.
Of particular note is the wood's toast to strongly absorb the culture and promotion of the Central Plains culture was advanced. Wood attaches great importance to the public to learn Chinese culture. Xu Xia-ke came, Wood changed his or her public and asked him to help with the manuscript written in Chinese and personally proposition: "Ya Chung their proper place", please Xu Xia-ke taught her four sons to write articles. Xu Xia-ke was also noted at the time the largest Confucian temple in the central Yunnan Lijiang south Heqing, Heqing Lijiang Mu Kung Temple of Confucius is a silver sponsor 1200 revised up. When the identity of Xu Xia-ke with ordinary Scholars come to Lijiang, the Mu Kung temple relief reception, 2 Yi-ying, personally. Sat on the floor when you sit on Xu Xia-ke board, with himself sitting next plank. Such a respect for the intellectual that he really set an example of Confucian ethical code. Current and Naxi Ren Xu Xia-ke contacts but also through "Interpreter" (ie, translation), today we have direct contact without a hitch, wood has a soul, if the public would certainly be gratified. ,
Wood House building, water system, squares, gardens are all carefully designed, wood House, St. Paul, palaces, buildings, pavilions, promenade, set Dacheng contemporary ancient architecture. Is full of stone carving, wood carvings, brick carvings, as well as exquisite calligraphy and paintings reflect the court of public will and the concept of wood plaque, can be said to reflect the wood's a toast in political life, cultural interests, and family life, as well as the Naxi and the then central government and a comprehensive museum. Worthy of careful observation, taste. Fortunately, I did not with the group, there is no time limit, no tour guides shouting, you can leisurely, you can will want to return, I spent four hours inside, if not an empty belly tough, really wanted to stay for a day.
To the wood House, from Guangyi Street, through the customs gate, rain Liufang arch, they came to a small square, the square there is a two-story structure west of the large stone arch, the upper central government is pitched, "sacred", the lower is the edicts of the large pitched content: "loyalty." Four stone lions crouch in the arch ago, and glory. Wood House behind in St. Paul.木府的朝向是座西朝东，与一般古代官府座北朝南不同，木府是朝向皇帝所在的方向，体现着“忠”。
进了大门是一个大广场，左右是钟鼓楼，穿过广场步上三层平台是一座巨大的宫殿式建筑“议事厅”，土司木公在这里办公，厅前高悬三块金匾，是明太祖、明成祖等三位皇帝赐给木土司的，内容都是“诚心报国”，既是褒奖，也是希望。
议事厅后是座落在水中央的三层的“万卷楼”，木土司藏书学习的地方，环境清幽，门窗木雕精美。万卷楼的后门上是嘉靖年间皇帝赐的“忠孝文武”匾。
往后去是“护法殿”，据说这是木土司处理家事的地方，中间供奉“天地君亲师”的牌位和土司祖先的画像，后门上挂着“乔木世家”匾。寓意只有按当时中国的主流意识形态伦理道德来处理家务，才能使家族兴旺发达。
护法殿后，一条街道把木府分成两边，靠过街楼连接，从后门进入光碧楼，楼上陈列着丽江古往今来的杰出人物的画像照片，有古代的清官、支持蔡谔的护国军反对袁世凯的近代地方民主革命领袖、帮助过红军长征的社会贤达、现代的纳西艺术家、纳西民族学家……借木府展示这些地方人物，可以帮助人们了解丽江是个人杰地灵的好地方。
光碧楼的后边是亭亭玉立的玉音楼，演奏乐曲，接待来客，应该是一座很快乐的建筑。但是看到二楼后边悬挂的一块匾就快乐不起来了，匾上写着“天威咫尺”，意思大概是不要以为山高皇帝远，如果过分放纵自己，忘记自己对国家的责任，那么灭顶之灾顷刻就会降临。这是一位名叫木增的土司对后世子孙意味深长的警示，要求后世子孙千万要加强自我约束。
木府最高处有座道观，三清殿掩映在狮山的古柏深处，这是木府的家庙。具有浓厚道教音乐色彩的纳西古乐得以世代相传，恐怕与木府信仰道教也有一定的因缘。
从北边的长廊向下走，拐个弯便进了木家院，堂屋中央挂了一幅木增的草书，这幅土司的书法作品保存至今很不容易，里边是不是还有什么故事呢，不得而知。木家院里还布置了一些不同身份的人的起居室，布置了反映纳西服饰和风俗的展览。院门口是重建木府时从地下挖掘出来的老木府的一些建筑构件，如巨大的石雕柱础等。使人们在中断的新老木府之间建立起近似同一性的联想。
结束参观，正要出大门，抬头看见四个大字：“辑宁边境”，又是明朝皇帝赐的匾，有些事在历史上是很难讲清楚的，不过丽江木府的爱国土司们从政治、经济、文化等方面的确发挥了辑宁边境的作用，人民可以认同，历史在此是公正的。
吃了中饭，回客栈休息了一会，便打算去逛老城的老街。其实此前此后，我一直在不断地逛。丽江最古最美最真实的景物在老河老桥老街，所有来此旅游的人都把逛河逛街当作最主要的活动。
玉龙雪山雄峙于北方的天空，玉龙桥扼守老城的入口，导游说，在丽江没有地图不要紧，顺着河流的方向走下去，就是老街老巷老民居。从黑龙潭流来的玉河到此一分为三：东河、中河、西河，它们在穿街走巷往前流的时候还会分岔，小的支流忽而潜入地下，忽而涌上地面，在小街小巷边形成哗啦哗啦的激流，像猫狗在追逐嬉戏，十分有趣。河流和支岔结成了水网，这里的水网很密，支撑着丽江老城几百年的发展；这里的河都比较小，不通航船；这里的河都是活水，在形成落差的地方，水流很急；这里的河都很清，清得水中游鱼历历可数；这里的河都很亲近人，没有高高的堤岸，房屋与河没有距离，到处可凭栏，河水触手可及。不论坐在屋里还是走在街上，总有一种感觉：流水就在身边或脚下。在灯红柳绿的街边或桥头，河水形成倒影，会给人带来一些美丽的幻觉，云在水下飘，人在天上游。
河流挡不住人的脚步，在人要走过去的地方总能找到桥，连接街道和街道的有石桥、钢筋水泥桥，连接店铺和街道或者人家和街道的有木桥、石条搭成的桥、铁焊的桥。老城老桥多。最老当数七一街和崇仁巷连接处的万子桥，徐霞客曾经在上面走过，当年叫做万字桥，至少400年历史，桥栏的巨石已经被岁月蚀剥得满身孔洞，苍老得失去原来的形状。桥头有块石碑，年代久远字多漫灭，桥面铺的大石块也很不平整，桥身两边长满荒草，但是荒草遮不住没有变形的拱形桥洞。河水流过，唱着古老的歌。
最能给人神秘感的是老街。老街里藏着茶马古道，七一街边有块碑记述着古代驮着普洱茶和各种物资的马帮从大理经过这条街去香格里拉、拉萨乃至印度，马蹄声从黎明至夜幕低垂不绝于耳。老街里还藏着许多明清古民居，在百岁桥附近我找到一处丽江重点保护的明代民居刘家大院，深巷导引，庭院广阔，楼宇四合，木雕精美。丽江人比较开放，对人态度友好，即使在居民区，不少人家都开着大门，让外地游客进去看。
老街上有不少茶马古道留下来的古老店铺，我们不知道它们过去曾经经营什么，现在则和那些新开的店铺一样，不是卖旅游商品就是经营客栈或饮食店。这里的旅游商品颇有特色，一是带有纳西文字、丽江风情、高原印记，如丽江木刻、牦牛肉干，让游人把丽江带回家；二是自产自销边产边销，游人可以看他在T恤上写上纳西文字或画上纳西图案，可以看他在木片上刻丽江风光，这就增加了商店的可观赏性；三是注重满足人们特别是年轻人的个性化需求，喜欢神秘的朋友可以选择某个神秘图案的样品，让他给你做一个；四是兼顾纪念性和实用性，这里的手工艺品许多具有实用价值，手缝的马帮皮帽子可以戴，木雕的纳西脸谱可以做房间的装饰。丽江人很精明，他们知道游客只会为买别处买不到的有丽江特色的而且货真价实的东西才掏腰包。
云南人喜欢怪，有个旅行社的名片反面印的是云南十八怪，丽江老街的店名也有些相当怪，围绕四方街走一圈，不难发现“一间木虫”、“一米眼光”、“最后部落”、“今生有约”、“在水一方”、“雨后初晴”、“无言斋”、“暗地”、“臭皮匠”、“土木匠”……不论雅俗，只有怪才能引人注意。从这里又可以看到丽江人的聪明和风趣。
老街也是藏龙卧虎的地方。不经意间走进了东大街的“和志钢书斋”，徐霞客记载明太祖在给丽江纳西人赐姓时，“官姓为木，民姓为和”。和志钢看来是一位纳西的民的后代。这可是一位全国知名的年轻人，第14届中国十大杰出青年之一。他11岁被电击失去双臂，他不向命运屈服，学会自己穿衣做饭，喂猪放牛马，学会以口代手写字，读完高中。他在残疾人运动会上先后获得32块金牌，他的口书书法作品获得世界残疾人书画展金奖，他多次在国内外举办书法展览，外国人说从他身上进一步了解了中华文化和当代中国人的精神风貌。他不但自食其力，而且通过办书斋为十来位健全人提供就业机会，还先后为社会慈善事业捐款十多万元。中央电视台和台湾电视台都为他拍过专题片。人们称他为“纳西魂”。在他卖自己书法作品的“书斋”门口，还挂着一块牌子：“丽江青少年爱国主义教育基地”。
如果说丽江的过去充满神秘，丽江的今天则充满神奇。
独游黔滇半月行（七）
当年徐霞客到了丽江，曾经写信要求土司木公帮助他去忠甸（即今天的香格里拉），木公复信“路多盗，不可行。”留下了千古遗憾。
我游了丽江，最大的愿望也是去香格里拉。香格里拉位于世界自然遗产三江并流区域的中心地带。适逢雨季，虎跳峡封峡，去香格里拉的路也不大好走，能不能去不知道。 10号上午，民主路云岭旅行社关经理给我办了香格里拉二日游的手续。
丽江到香格里拉距离不到200公里，由于要翻越崇山峻岭，跨过金沙江，几年前要走两天才能到，现在路好了，只需要四个小时。我们11号上午九点这样左右乘香格里拉国际旅行社的中巴出发，在丽江西北翻越一座大山后，沿着山间公路西行，直到长江第一湾，大家下车拍照观光。然后车向北驶下到金沙江河谷，沿着江南岸东行，过金沙江大桥到了江北，进迪庆藏族自治州地界，沿北岸东行，到冲江河口的虎跳峡镇急转弯，顺着冲江河谷向北跑，看风景有点像西藏拉萨东边的尼羊河谷，山高路险，水流湍急，风光秀丽，几近童话中神仙出没的地方。下午一点多到达香格里拉。
导游尼玛领我们去环城东路的达瓦风情园安排住宿和用餐。达瓦风情园从外观看是一座很气派的藏式宾馆，比拉萨色拉路的诺达康桑差不了许多，大门的两根立柱都是原木，粗得要三个人伸出双臂去围才能围得过来，两层楼的餐厅前一排五根大立柱，也都差不多粗。听藏民说，长四、五百年的杉树才能有这么粗。少见多怪，在以后的一天时间里，看到藏民盖的新房，许多都有这么粗的木柱。他们说这样的房子能站几百年，将来就是文物，可值钱了。他们瞧不起西式别墅，那不值钱。这里藏民盖新房一般要花四五十万，深山野岭哪来这么多钱。他们说靠山吃山，上山采天麻虫草；上山采松茸，松茸卖给日本人，采得好一个夏天能弄三四万。
午餐后去有小布达拉宫之称的噶丹松赞林寺和纳帕海。松赞林寺是云南藏传拂寺之首，寺院从山下延伸到山上，山头上大殿的屋顶金光闪耀，从远处看寺院的建筑群，气象万千，真有点像布达拉宫。纳帕海不是海，是香格里拉最大的草原。和蒙古草原不同，这里野花盛开，红黄蓝各种颜色，漂亮极了。远山扬风，马儿在草原上奔驰，爽极了。
12号上午驱车35公里去属都湖，属都湖是高原冰碛湖，这里的草甸也是开满野花五彩缤纷，这里的空气清新而芳香，这里的水面清澈见底。这里远离任何污染，是现实的世外桃源，是看得见摸得着的人间仙境。
蜻蜓点水，跑马观花地游了香格里拉，谈不到多深的了解，只能说香格里拉我来过了。下午回丽江，司机换了扎西格仁，他健壮得像一头雄狮，毕业于西南民族学院，不习惯于分配给他的政府秘书工作，半年后改行当了司机。为人豪爽风趣健谈。他一边开车一边给我们介绍香格里拉的风土人情，有人问他什么时候可以方便一下，他说“前边卖东西的地方有卫生间，你们方便，我停车可以领十块钱。”后来店家给了他一包云烟，他举着烟对游客说，“得了包烟值八块钱，”随手抽出一根，“谁想抽谁抽。”仿佛烟是刚才大家共谋的收获，仿佛他已经和大家成了哥们。只要听到谁说这里的景色好美，他就会立刻停下车来，让大家下车拍照欣赏。他是我们此行接触最多的一位香格里拉人，从他身上我们进一步了解了美丽的香格里拉。
我们比徐霞客幸运。
我已经走过祖国大陆的31个省市自治区。旅游开阔了我的视野，在开阔生命空间的同时，也开阔了自己的内心活动的空间。每次从外边回来，感到自己又多拥有一片蓝天。生命有限，空间无限。当自己生命的脚步多走过一座山岭，多走过一条河流，多走过一块草原、沙漠或戈壁，生命便会更加丰富，更加充实，更加值得咀嚼。
在旅游的途中，我和自然的造化对话，和历史和祖先对话，也和一些萍水相逢的朋友们对话，留下许多美好的记忆。也使自己的意识不断产生结构性变化，使自己真正与时俱进。旅游真好。
作者：lyr37
