Hand lazy, and increasingly unwilling to what to write, but to see the kind of friends of grassland have been eager to do the same with me when I opened the CD, in that the songs from the grasslands, the re-picked up a unforgettable memories ......
The first impression of Mongolia from the child, his mother talking about a Mongolian ma'am, just remember that my mother said that whenever he went to when she was a headache that Mongolia aunt massage the head, will be well up quickly. Childhood's impression is so amazing Mongols.
Do not know when will be a strong desire to Mongolia together, but also had made a name "Mongolia's Moonlight" page, just look forward to year after year, in a second brother returned from a prairie description , I finally had a chance to follow the older brother went to the Hulunber to mind flying in the vast grasslands of Inner Mongolia.
Blue Prairie - Journey South Hulunbeier
2004.07.28-2004.08.01
First day: the warm Hulunbuir
July 28 Daqing - Zalantun - yakeshi - Hailar by yellow eye for an eye by yellow 15, etc. to the sister school in Changchun, we have accumulated for a long time with a yearning for driving non-stop from the Daqing departure of the. Onto State Road 301, a generation after the eldest brother said, Qiqihar toll Trinidad and Tobago, the fruit is not enough, stopping along the way frequencies are not I be paid a nap child. 10:30, we sailed out of the industry in Heilongjiang, Inner Mongolia, the first thing that catches the eyes of a large sign - "Hulunbeier welcome you", but I know that the real grassland very far away from us.
The way forward, gradually greet the eyes of the Daxing'anling Yumo. Daxinganling is a kind word to me, since when did Eryi young educated youth as a mountain countryside in the Daxing'anling a place called the large poplar worked and her mother often gave me Let's talk about her to stay when visiting Eryi when the various horizons in the Daxinganling. Mother talked about all the children at the time the people seem so filled with longing, when my youth is what the general thinking Daxinanling satisfactory end.
Are all the mountains north of the northeast stretches like that, although not unexpected, but it is full of perseverance. The car with a speed of 140 step, perhaps because both sides of Castle Peak road is too long and too ambitious and did not gallop in the urban areas where speeding like feeling. Driving through arun qi and Zalantun Shortly after the road on both sides of the landscape gradually to life: blue sky, clouds, mountains, streams, pine trees, green grass ... ... There are from time to time to see cattle and sheep, a Jardine natural rural scenery. Burke plans to sail to the vicinity of the car, and we get off at rest, where lush, verdant verdant grass. My mouth just could not help saying "nice, nice" and kept photographic camera.
However, in practice the scenery more beautiful still to come, when the car is not a long time to reach out again, Unur (Mongolian "beautiful and rich"), near the town, when a piece of the golden greet the eyes, across the blue car windows first, I thought it was a dry grassland, but not much like. When the stopped cars to go that one golden side, I can not help but exclaimed: "It's beautiful!!." Yes, really very beautiful, because it is the thing that catches our eyes can almost be described as endless flowers of the year in the "Traveler" magazine to see the southwest into the film made a deep yearning for the time rape, but no surprise, he was just in our hundreds of kilometers of Inner Mongolia, there is no inferior to far away to spend thousands of kilometers of the sea. And my cat went into this piece of the display, squid is almost able to drown us. Thin to scrutinize a flower, Mongolia will be more delicate touch of tenderness.
Daxing'anling Panshan Road has been re-repair the past, because roads are often narrow and sloping side this vehicle accidents, especially after heavy snow in winter, often car turned down the slope. Today, the road has been significantly better than a lot, as long as caution over, no problem. The Blossoming of the road on both sides of wild rhododendrons, but if the car is pulled over to enjoy as well.
Two to three points the afternoon bell, Che Xingzhi yakeshi, the result of very poor road traffic, in the rough for more than two hours later, the distance a city can still be seen, that is grasslands center city - Hailar (now renamed To Hulunbeier city). Gao Gang in the road to the right of the overlooks mergel meandering river twists and turns in the flat valley. Mergel River originates from the middle Daxinganling length of 300 kilometers. Snake river flows from the northeast to southwest winds Chenbaerhu grasslands, in the bayan hure Town 10 kilometers import hoh Knoll Lake, and from south of the lake outflow import Hailar River, because the basin is flat open , river twists and turns, was Mr. Lao She described it as "best in the world Qushui." Because of distinctive features, often on river mergel Hulunbeier picture even in Inner Mongolia.
During the nine hours after the rush, after 17 o'clock, we finally rolled into the Hulunbuir prairie the first leg of trip - Hailar city! 7,8 month is the most beautiful season of grassland, so at this time to a maximum of Hulunbeier league tourists, in the Bell Hotel, a lot of travel agents bus parked outside, but room prices have gone up naturally. Triangle business district near the Chinese restaurant is full ... Finally, we live in the Chinese opposite Hulun hotel standard room 100 yuan, with a bathroom. Lying on the bed and turn on the TV, in addition to the central and provincial satellite TV, there are several Mongolian TV channels, Hong Kong's Phoenix Satellite TV and Sun TV signals been made a technical processing, shaking non-stop can not watch, and good For people who travel, television, and little interest.
1 to Hailar, my brother will be kept to his Mongolian friends called his cell phone ringing off the hook. Because the working relationship between the brother had a row in 2023 all went to work in Inner Mongolia for some time, to get to know a lot of local friends. People did not expect is that his friend Ao day to Hailar Law grad, and pine actually lived in the Hulun hotel! Ao Day Gele not tall Nongmeidayan this year after 26 years old, but looks than the actual age of the maturity of many, has shown signs appeared to be very shy, but when night time when the gold-roofed restaurant for dinner, but he looked very lively. Pine also dinner of three friends, two female one male, are also Mongolian. During the meeting, grumble mile Du Lu's spoke Mongolian. This supper is a dietary meal is coming from the Han to the Mongolian diet transition, both potatoes cook in soy silk, pine nut corn have Congshao mutton, milk and tofu Roberts, burned lamb chops ... ... first let me enjoy the meal to the Mongols enthusiasm, whether wine or beer, the cup is almost always full, they go to the northeast of people do not like some of us do not drink like you say you do not give him face and so unhappy, but always smiling, whispered advise you to drink the bar drinking it, you do not drink and then he would do as the King before, so you Shengqingnanque. So in this kind under the dinner ended, I put inside the stomach to eat delicious spit out will fall into another. This Leighton eat into the night, middle of the night was again kind invitation of the Mongolian friends out for a walk to eat barbecue drinking.
The first one arrived in Hulunbeier night, on the kind and spent a daze.
The next day: the quiet Nomonhan
July 29 Hailar - Ewenki flag - the new barag zuoqi (East Flag) - Norman Hampshire, Japan and Germany - Bayantala morning and woke up, give up the hotel provides breakfast, was again on gel, and the pine and so on Ao called out to dinner. Drinking tea after eating mutton dumplings, Ao pine accompany us on gel, and went to get Russia Hailar Mall.
Russia mall is located in the busy downtown area Hailar, is a six-story red brick building, but on the first floor there are many Russian goods stalls distribution of goods throughout Russia with the Heilongjiang goods stores similar. Here to a family friend brought some wooden comb horn in Inner Mongolia after what they did not allow me to buy interest. Hulun hotel side there are many wife and children of ethnic merchandise stores, which sell a lot of goods with the Mongolian ethnic characteristics, there are Mongolian clothing, as well as Mongolia's unique knife, silver bowls and chopsticks, cortex of the flagon and leather painting, made from lamb wool ... ... Perhaps it is because commodity prices in the downtown is not cheap, a palm-sized leather flagon to their sixties and seventies yuan, a small sized leather paintings have fifty or sixty yuan, big lamb in general is also the sixties and seventies yuan, medium should also be forty or fifty yuan. There are a lot of Mongolian boots store, look absolutely cool and the quality looks good.
Because we rush our way to the East flag, Ao Japan also wanted to go to grad, and pine act Manchuria, near noon then we bid farewell to each other, the Ben North and South.
Ewenki flag is located in the Hailar City, only 20 minutes south, is to visit the new barag zuoqi to pass. Ewenki museum is located in the town of Ewenki Tuohai flag Bayan, on the road leading to the East next to the flag. Museum courtyard stands the Qing Dynasty Ewenki hero name - the equestrian statue of Hai Lancha. Hai Lancha is a warrior Ewenki hearts of the people, he Qing fighting north and south, a prominent military exploits. Junggar, Xinjiang Binh Dinh Department of rebellion, from the levy Myanmar, Sichuan, Taiwan, Lin Shuang-wen pacification of the rebellion, to move into Tibet, expedition in Nepal ... ... his military life, bravery and combat skills, in Taiwan, Heilongjiang, Hailar have built a shrine for the Hai Lancha commemorate his exploits. Ewenki museum tickets 10 yuan, the museum displays not only the national production and life are Ewenki appliances, and informative text with images presented Ewenki the historical development and cultural practices, is a reflection of historical development of the three-dimensional picture of the Ewenki.
Ewenki originated in the Ussuri River, is a small minority of our population is one of the existing population of 20000 people. Are mainly distributed in Inner Mongolia, Heilongjiang, Xinjiang, there are a few distributions. Ewenki Hailar is the largest neighborhood in Ewenki Autonomous Banner. "Ewenki" means "living in the mountain forests of the people"; In addition there is a saying, "living in the south slopes of the people." These two interpretations are indications Ewenki generations living in the forest, only because of historical development, and most people out of the forest, came to grassland, there are still some people are still living in the forests. As for the origin of Ewenki people, and some say that in this Russia's Lake Baikal, with some saying that the Ussuri River basin in China.
After visiting the museum, the Pro out of the counter to buy souvenirs before a set of "Beautiful Hulunbeier" postcards, 10 yuan, and Buren Bayar's CD "Hang Gai," 30 yuan. Buren Bayaer Inner Mongolia Hulunbeier born singer, he and Stengel, Aldan its contemporary Mongolia, the cells are three strong singers, but a different style. Mongolian singer Aldan its the grid, her hometown in the amount of Gina flag Badain Jaran Desert, Inner Mongolia, where the amount of Gina River (Mongolian: the Mother River) because the upstream dam construction has been drying up, oasis, lakes disappear Her song "Golden Holy Mountain" (in fact the desert) there is a stirring lament the desert and desolation. Stengel's hometown in the Yih Ju League, more than 85% of the severely desertified grassland, and he shouted himself hoarse to sing out of the Elgin Doss plateau grief, helplessness and the memory of the past. The Buren Bayar was born in Hulunbeier, where there is 25% of the prairie (the others are 50% of the forest, as well as 25% of the grassland had been cleared), where the prairie is still a beautiful song he could hear the big grassland beautiful, vast and grassland pastoral life, I Buren Bayar heard the song the artist on the steppe tenderness.
After the car driving out of the Ewenki flag, the real prairie will be rushing toward us Hulunbeier! Few cars on the road, audio, playing De Dema's "Hulunbuir prairie," looked out the window with its endless green filling my eyes ... ...
My beloved in the horizon, the horizon there is a vast expanse of the vast prairie grasslands between heaven and earth white yurts scattered on the river of my beloved is deep in the alpine mountain Daxing An Linhai vast clouds of golden eagle between the vigorous overlooks my beloved Prairie In the bend across the prairie grasslands Argun Mother I love you deeply deeply wish Hulunbuir prairie river floating clouds blossoming in my heart of my beloved prairie Hulunbeier my Silian ... ....
Perhaps Hulunbeier grassland America, what words describe all seemed so weak, only with song and musical notes can be a reflection of your body has been integrated into each sub-shock.
Two hours later, we come to a new barag zuoqi. "Baltic tiger," the term is a nomadic tribe, named after the name of the name. Barag Mongolia is the Mongolian Ministry of the oldest one, who was first in the northeast of Lake Baikal barag Makawa (now the Russian territory barguzin) nomadic and hunting and fishing in the vicinity of the production. Lake by mountains and rivers of spring and the Mongols to the nomadic life resident name of the family name was customary for them to be known as the "Baltic Tiger" has. Later, with the constant migration of the Mongols barag scattered to the east and south of Lake Baikal. Qing Emperor Kangxi, a part barag Mongols were incorporated into the Eight Banners, Zhu Mu butha vast areas east of the Daxinganling, as well as part of a Khalkha (now Mongolia) tribes of the genus department. In 1732, the Qing government to strengthen the defensive Hulunbeier area will include Soren (now Ewenki), which WO Seoul, Oroqen and barag Mongolian soldiers and their families were relocated in 3796 Hulunbeier pastoral areas, to prevent intrusion into Russia. 275 of them will be Zhu Mu Mongol barag Chenbaerhu flag in this territory. In 1734, the Qing government again in the ancient Chechen Khan Kaer Meng Department of more than 2,400 volunteers to join the Eight Banners barag Mumba who moved downstream and Hulun in herlen term of the present cross-strait about two flags on the new Baltic tiger territory. To distinguish these two parts barag Mongols, so he called in 1732 relocated to the region from the butha for "Chenbaerhu," that is "first come from the barag Mongolian," meaning; in 1743 from the Khalkha Khan moved to the Ministry of Chechnya while the relative is known as the "new Baltic tiger" that is "New barag Mongol" was intended. The new Mongol they live in the Baltic Tiger Xinba'erhuzuo Qi and Xinbaerhu flag.
We stop in front of the flag of the government rest and wait for a good friend of his brother Batu Bi Li Ge Gege's arrival. Dong-qi Center amgalang very small town, but it is quite tidy and clean, the construction can be seen in the last two years new. Banner government is located in the middle radius, is a five-story gray blue building. Because it is noon rush hours, it seems no one inside the building, I went inside the building would like to find a bathroom, looked up and building numbers, but still are Mongolian language. Fortunately, the building structure is similar, it is easy to find:). From the flag out of government building is opposite the "Kanjur Square", a fly of the Maxima sculpture into the sky, God is the Mongolian horses under the stone, dance, bow, and Latin American dances and music, a gift ... look ... vary, lifelike.
Kanjur The word comes from the important texts of Tibetan Buddhism, "Kanjur scriptures," is the Tibetan Tripitaka an important component. Qianlong six years (in 1741) before and after the new left and the right to obtain a Baltic tiger "Kanjur by" treasure here, names also will be renamed the "Ghanghir flowers." "Sweet Jill Flower" is a Tibetan, Han Italy is dedicated to "Mani mantra" are. Emperor Qianlong Sanshiliunian award "granted" the precepts of humanity approval, aside from the Qing Shi Yin temple, Qianlong personally wrote "Shouning Temple" plaque. As the collection has been Shouning Temple Tibetan, Mongolian, "Kanjur Jing" and therefore I have again called Kanjur Temple. Since 1948, in the Kanjur Temple 11-time All-League那达慕大会. "Cultural Revolution", the Kanjur temple turned into ruins. In early 2001, the new Government's compliance with the general barag zuoqi herders and religious believers, religious voices of those who decided to rebuild the temple Kanjur, so that this nation once renowned Chinese and foreign religious shrines to re-standing in a beautiful and fertile grasslands barag . August 30, 2001, in the Kanjur temple on the site held a grand ceremony. To July 2003, Ganzhuer basically completed the construction of the main temple, of which the courtyard area of 11.33 thousand square meters, the temple hall 2218.7 square meters. Main Temple - Suo Keqin temple area of 646 square meters, high 17.5 square meters, the temple-Ming-chu, 46, column table carving and coiled dragon, the former have a high canopy package mansion, a symbol of Buddhism in the top of copper gold-plated by the wheel, through the round edge inlaid with coral, jade items, faction Whatever You Want.
2003, 7, 18 days, Kanjur, spreading a ceremony held in the temple. Throughout the country at home and abroad, and 10 thousand people gathered here, the herders wear festive costumes to participate in this long-awaited event, holding hands, praying white hada good weather, cattle and sheep fat. From this bustling crowd and the crisp, copper bells seemed to see past Kanjur temple style.
A little more time, Batu, Hu Zzica and several other Mongolian friends over, they were in the Border Police Station and Bell Bayantala the work of border police station, just eaten lunch together, and learned that morning that we have not yet come from the Hailar to eat lunch then asked what we eat. At this time my brother has long had coveted meat clutch in Mongolia, he came to the East with the famous flag shop children - "a flock of sheep."
"A flock of sheep," may be small, but well-known because of the grasslands a few dishes to do authentic food and a minor celebrity. There is a shop outside the yurts, of course, is not living, just a temporary dining tent. Bending into the yurt, in the face in front of the Mongolian nation Patriarch - Genghis Khan's portrait. Everyone sitting around the round table, the waiter to pour a bowl of tea per person, compared barag light taste of tea, a touch of milk, a touch of tea, Xianyan faint smell. In front of each guest had put a knife is used to handle meat to eat. Batu each one of us a knife to cut a lamb, dip chives entrance, the taste is very delicious. A little taste and no smell of mutton, they said the local sheep eating grass is good, there are some herbs, there is no elsewhere, the smell of mutton mutton taste. Later on the cook Yang Du children, blood sausage, fried Yang Gan, fried dried meat ... ... and so on, different flavor. Yang Du children to eat up clear, and there is no smell children. Meat is very chewy, Xianxiang palatability. Fried liver is very tender, mellow flavor, Batu said that they sometimes kill the local sheep look after the Yang Gan Shui Tang directly with the food, or even eaten raw. Hu was also a meal together on the investigation, show congruent few friends, then a few days, we almost all together, by their care through the grasslands on the tour saved a lot of trouble.
Eaten lunch, maps and in Pakistan under the leadership of the whole show, we drove to Norman Hampshire, Japan and Germany. Nomonhan known as the Second World War in 1939 in Japan, the puppet Manchukuo and the Soviet Union, the Mongolian People's Republic of the border war broke out between. May 4, 1939, Mongolia Jun 24 border guards involved ice from the West Bank to the Halakhah River east of grazing, Manchukuo Garrison Army cavalry post in the north Xingan soldiers immediately opened fire on interdiction, and Riding to catch up, the Mongolia Jun Lian Rendai horse back to the West Bank. As a result, the two sides continue to bid competitively in the region, the war escalated. In fact, the Japanese Kwantung Army in this area has long wanted to attack the Mongolian People's Republic, the occupation of its eastern halaha River area, as a next step a springboard for invasion of the Soviet Far East, so as to realize long-planned "North into the plans," to attempt to German pincer attack from the east and west line of the Soviet Union.
Soviet and Japanese troops continued to send more troops to Nomonhan district, and launched several large-scale air and ground offensive. Back when the Japanese Kanjur Temple amgalang, generals, assembled around the temple a large number of troops, tanks and aircraft, the construction of a field airport at Nomonhan over the area over a three-day battle with the Soviet aircraft, there are dozens of aircraft crashed aircraft was destroyed here in the savannah.
Soviet war in the end, the victory came to an end, the entire war, which lasted 135 days, the two sides more than 20 million soldiers to the battlefield, artillery over 500 doors, aircraft of more than 900 planes, tanks and armored vehicles, thousands of casualties, more than 60000. Either air or a tank battle in military history at the time the world is unprecedented. Japanese historian says Nomonhan war is "the Japanese Army in the history of the biggest defeat." Arrogance of the mighty Japanese Kwantung Army in this piece of less than 600 square kilometers of sand dunes loss of 54000 soldiers and a large number of heavy weapons. This is the Russo-Japanese war has been exposed to the Japanese for the first time such a disastrous failure.
15:30, we arrived in Norman Hampshire Border Police Station of Japan and Germany. A little break here, a bit, my brother and his friends reminisced, I was busy to the DV charge, cat and sister tease rip of a female police stations to support large yellow-dog "Bean." Peas have been pregnant, docile temperament, it is estimated it will be soon followed by a few dogs on a leisurely walk in the grasslands of the ... ... in Pakistan, accompanied by plans and others, we came to the "war ruins Nomonhan museum." Exhibition Hall is the most Nomonhan Central Primary School, west room, a very common building. Into the exhibition hall, a piece on display will be presented in front of things: bullet holes scarred helmets, rust saber, scattered shells, piles of heavy bombs, artillery shells, in addition to drug packages, canisters, the Japanese-made beer Canned bottles, maps, books, etc. ... ... All this shows that took place here, a brutal war, and even biological weapons has also been involved in the battlefield. Come out from the museum, we drove to the Nomonhan border observation posts. About 15 minutes away, we came to an approximately 30-meter-high observation tower, the board slightly swaying in the wind, looked down the observation tower, the vast grasslands, such as the green carpet, to the endless horizon stretching, there is no end. Few dozen meters in front of the tower stands a circle of shells, artillery shells towards the middle is placed into the direction of Mongolia, the two characters - "peace." In the tower looked forward with a telescope, observation posts across Mongolia and the wire can be seen.
Nomonhan the grass can often be seen a white clusters of pink flowers, petals and colors like cherry blossoms. These flowers are Mongolian called "Yila Gang", commonly known as "Mikie plum", the pharmacy name is "Limonium bicolor." Then the Japanese losing the battle with the Somun, see "Yi Lagang" flowers like cherry blossoms, they evoked feelings of homesickness, so I do not know who Bianba It's called "Nomonhan Sakura."
After visiting the ruins of war, and we drove back to Germany on the way Bayan Bourges, car startled a group of birds, then the smoke Nomonhan 4, grasslands a scorched-earth, wild cattle and sheep carcasses storm. Today's Nomonhan, Grass flourishes, cattle and sheep flocks, is a school of life.
De Bourges in the Bayan (bajan - rich Bourges Germany - blisters) waiting for dinner before the cat came to me and to the edge of a lush village of grass land. I swear I was the first time to see what a lush garden, where fresh air, such as washing, the color becomes rich and beautiful, where lush green grass, cows and sheep everywhere, all kinds of birds fly from your head that we could clearly hear the birds flap their wings Diming and even the voice of everything from nature, everything is so pure, so to feel comfortable and everything, a sky-blue to a color picture of the net, no matter who you are , whether you're experiencing in the city of what kind of impatience with annoyances, here in this moment, your mind will become calm and tolerant. Cat Yong Zhao me, that moment about what we do not want to say ... ...
The second hand eating meat, the group has more than 7 points, we have a special preference for the next rain clouds took more than an hour of time back to the East flag (new barag zuoqi). Simple bought some things, to continue to drive west to the Batu brother's house - Bayantala (Mongolian fertile land intended), to dabatou Brother house is more than 21:00, yet warm and the owner is prepared to a table of the hand meat rich meals, warm people no longer have to know to add to it what it is. Under the influence of alcohol, I have晕晕Huhu, just remember a lot of hosts and the guests drank wine, sang songs later Batu, Hu Zzica also sang a song, Big Brother also sang "My father's mother river grassland "... ...
Day three: clean water sacred mountain
July 30 obo Bell - Lake Bell - Bell - Bao Shan 4:00 Gedewula more than they have been awakened by the wind outside the window, the sky clouded, Mimeng subconsciously pulling the quilt went on to sleep, changing the grasslands Surprisingly, also a grand and spectacular. Get up at 6:00, feeling not very comfortable, can be certain that yesterday's wine and meat to eat too much. Batu's son, Bo tung than I woke up too early, children under one year old, less talking, walking instability, Han and his mother looked like, but obviously like his character, Mongolian father , in particular the lively and love to laugh, what things are curious, and kept playing with my DV. Waiting to eat breakfast gap, I take him on the floor playing his car, found him there at once squatted a lot of honest, when I come to Huiguo Shen child after a sleek and throwing feces of children has been cut and polish finished chewing.
Ate mutton, small fried fritters, pickled vegetables, drink milk tea, mutton porridge, we are a 4 and Batu wife, Xiu-Quan, Hu Zzica waiting for a friend aboard two vehicles go to our most important purpose of this trip - Bell Lake . Sky clouds gradually dispersed, but the wind is still great. Lake Bell from Bayantala go the distance is not far, but need to go through a border post, had Wuerxun military pontoon bridge on the river one. Ordinary tourists driving to not only easy to find road, but also because the basic can not be allowed through the pontoon bridge here, so make go to Bell Lake is not an easy task. But is also because of this, unlike the Hulun Lake Bell, as many visitors, maintaining a more natural the natural essence of the original is always so mysterious.
From Bayantala less than 20 minutes south on to the Bayantala checkpoint, the checkpoint is a brick structure, courtyard, street erected a "stop check" the word of warning signs. Road on the left of the slope inlaid with two lines of red characters "as the Party and the country for the people and fulfill their duty to make loyalty, roots to defend the frontier frontier frontier peace of mind the building of the border." Pakistan plans to stop cars with guards and other soldiers grumble miles Dulu said after a while, we have been successfully released. Was adopted from the pontoon bridge, the iron plate issued咣咣sound, as if the train did pass through the Songhua River Railway Bridge.
After a Wuerxun River to the west line of less than 10 minutes, far we can see that a very large man-made mound - Bell obo. This is my first time to see the real life on the prairie obo. Man-made mound in the Mongolian word for "rubble" or "drum kits" mean. In the geographical boundaries of the pastoral office or at the direction of the base stone identification to record called obo. Obo usually located in the scenic view the open prairie Takaoka, in the long history of development, man-made mound gradually evolved into a place for worshiping their ancestors and gods, functions similar to the Tibetan Mani Dui. The transmission from generation to generation and nurtured, so that the Mongols of the man-made mound has a unique understanding and feelings of people to come obo front, always pick up a few stones or both hands Tim a few hailed the man-made mound on the earth, but never trample or damage to man-made mound, the course of time Naturally, made of man-made mound piled more and more tall, has a long history of man-made mound in the tens of miles you can see outside. Bell, man-made mound on a high 3,4 m to build a semi-circular slope, is in section with tree branches, made of stone banding. We boarded the mound next to man-made mound in accordance with traditional customs away three times clockwise around the man-made mound. Obo branches, tangled with colored hada a look at man-made mound inside candy, coins, whole grains and other ritual items, even more surprising is that there are strings with the rope knot lamb's ear.
Bell obo a group photo after they went south, the most important destination for this trip - Bell Lake. Along the way see a lot of crane, as well as unknown birds, which shows that we have not far from the Bell Lake. About 20 minutes later, I saw a wire out the window. This Road is a Sino-Mongolian border fence between the first wire, Bell will be in this lake, after the first fence, and if there are second wire land is a buffer zone between the two countries of the demilitarized zone, and then forward that is Mongolia has. Sino-Mongolian border 4676 kilometers long, known as the most peaceful borders. Batu the car at the first fence stopped in front of a large iron gate, we drove through to the later, he also enter the barbed wire, and then turn off the door locked. When the car stopped again, when the Bell Lake has been unfolded before our eyes.
Bell Lake is a lake shared by China and Mongolia. Lake oval shape, long 40 kilometers wide and 20 kilometers, an area of 608.78 square kilometers, only one fifteenth of all of our country, 14/15 in the territory of Mongolia. Lake Bell, around the grassland is the best in the history of the grassland, but also thrive best northern nomadic pastoral areas. This piece of grassland through the ages has been their growth, development, and expand the history of the cradle. Xianbei people, Khitan, Jurchen, Mongols are all grown up in the cradle, but also all here youth spent time in their history.
These nomadic peoples into the one followed by one here, in the historical arena, but also a disappearance from the area followed by an exit stage of history. Genghis Khan established the Yuan dynasty in history, that is, set foot on this piece of grassland on the journey to conquer Europe and Asia. His descendants 100 years later, in the area are also from the historical. AD 1368, Ming Dynasty to overthrow the Yuan Dynasty, Yuan Emperor properly affixed Mu Er Huan Mongolia was forced to return. He tried to restore the rule in the Central Plains from time to time send troops Assault in the Mainland. Duly affixed Mu Er Huan's death, in 1378 his son succeeded to the throne Tuogu Si paste wood Seoul, changing era name to "Tianyuan." He teeth account is located in near Lake Bell has repeatedly sent troops to the Central Plains in the Mainland. In June 1388, in order to counter the invasion of the descendants of the Yuan Dynasty, Chu Yuan-chang sending generals army of 200,000 led by Lan Yu, day and night at double speed, directly toward the Bell Lake, defeated Yuan army. Tuogu Si paste wood Dole, West and Prince Edward escaped slave Mary Rose, was killed by subordinates had speed Diego children. Ming army captured the second son of Emperor Yuan of guarantee of slaves and Princess, Princess Margaret and other eight thousand people, livestock, 15, and so return after victory Hui Zhao. A minority of the dynasty, on the foot of our land Huashangjuhao ... ...
Wind, Bell Lake Enpa Haomiao, lake gulls fly. I had imagined was not as calm, the wind big wave rolled toward the shore from a distance, wave after wave to hit, and the countless birds with open wings teasing the waves, the waves in the distance deep rough, with the the roaring wind in order to treble the end at the foot of the beach. To ordinary people's eyes, Bell Lake is also a boundless marginal. At noon the sun shining on the lake, the wind will be rolled up the lake, while the waves will be breaking the sun, loaded with crystal, exile them to the shore and that between the thin sand and gravel. Lake of the orchids, orchid to my heart, surging, as if between the ardent lover call. By this time I do not want her calm, just as helpless when the quiet silence. There are songs that, while on the lake are lying on the earth a tear, I hope, it was a drop of tears of happiness.
Close to lunchtime, we came to the town of Bell Lake Bell Northwest Yongsheng Hotel. Lunch is a sumptuous feast, in addition to Bayantala of a few friends but also have a few friends from the Bell Border Police Station, friends, more than one, natural and inevitable drink. It is not me and the cat Jiu Li Zai-sheng also have slipped out of the middle sister, wandering in a nearby hotel. Bell town small population, mostly mud-brick houses, there is a gas station. The town tree grass scarcity of a car through when they dust. Has been eating lunch for almost 15:00 minutes because it is still early, we decided to go to treasure island, the Mongolian name is "treasure Gedewula Mountain," while here in the area of the Mongolian people are called "mountain." Bell Looking to the treasure island, only vague outlines of a cloud in the distant horizon inside a dark shadow, even the Pakistan map and show the locals had not been congruent. Today the weather good, so we have Kai car.
Prairie Road, staggered aspect, there is no point of reference is easy to become disoriented. Although his brother has been there twice, but each time did not go the same way. Fortunately, for thousands of years on the mountain, where, regardless of Zouna a way, as long as it is the direction toward the end will definitely arrive. Po-sum administration Gedewula Barr Lake right under the new flag (west flag) jurisdiction, the location in the East and West flag flag between the west of Ulan bubbles. As the saying goes, "Mount Hope running dead horse", and our car all the way toward the treasure Dongshan gallop, it appears to have been very close to the mountains there are always like, and you keep a certain distance. Because of changes in the relative position, Po Tung-shan is continually changing its shape, sometimes big, sometimes small, sometimes disappearing into the vast grasslands.
Nearly five o'clock when we finally reach the treasure Gedewula foot of the mountain. The magic lies in the vast treasure Dongshan Hulunbuir prairie a flat, the sky like a mountain out of thin air really can not explain. Po Dongshan elevation of 923 meters, but because in the Mongolian Plateau, so it is not very high relative height, but because the radius is flat grassland makes it majestic. Deng-bao Dongshan there is a need to pay special attention to the taboo, that is, women are not allowed to climb the main hill, one can only board the primary side of a hill-side elevation of lower hills. Not such as we speak, Mongolia, friends, pointing at my cat and my sister so that they take the next hill. Several women said to have very little to break the taboo has landed on treasure island, however, have suffered adverse consequences, as to whether it is a coincidence that rumors are not know.
In order to facilitate worship sacred mountains, in 2002 repaired the stone steps leading to the summit, down the mountain, a Mongolian and bilingual legislation monument inscription reads as follows:
『Po Gedewula Mount Athos - Po Gedewula Holy Mountain Lake is located in the new Baltic youqi altan emel town 45 kilometers due south, elevation 922.3 meters. "Treasure Gedewula" is a Mongolian, translated as "holy mountains" or "Holy Mountain."
There are many sacred mountains on the Po Gedewula beautiful legends.相传当年成吉思汗西征时，一日被敌军袭击，躲进了宝格德乌拉山。霎时，云雾缭绕，山上山下一片云海。敌军怕有埋伏，不敢进兵。登了三天三夜没有发现成吉思汗的踪影，只好退兵撤走。成吉思汗下山后抚胸告天“我得以免灾，我之区区性命，被宝格德乌拉山所搭救，日后我必常常祭祀此山，我的子子孙孙当与我一般祭祀”说完，他向着太阳把腰带挂在脖子上，将帽子挂在手上，屈身拜了九拜，撒马奶酒以祭。从此以后，每当绿草如茵，鸿雁北归时，草原上的牧民就进行祭山祭敖包活动。
祭敖包形成与元代，是图腾崇拜和祭拜天地的祭礼。祭敖包原本是萨满教的一项图腾祭祀活动，后来喇嘛教取代萨满教后，这一祭祀活动也被纳入到喇嘛教，同时也增加了宗教色彩。为了祭天，在高山平坦的地方，用石头堆成敖包，将柳条之类植物捆成大捆树在中间，上面挂上红、黄、蓝、白色布条，以示草原的吉祥。祭祀活动由高僧主持，他们诵经时，群众坐在两边，并分享祭祀的肉食，这称之为“敖包贺喜格”（敖包的福禄）。人们都期待分享这一口福。之后，进行摔跤、赛马、射箭等传统的“男儿三艺”比赛。自1738年始，每年的农历五月十三和七月初三，草原上的牧民都要在宝格德乌拉圣山举办隆重的民间祭山盛会，数百年来，方圆几百里，千万牧民如期而至，有高僧主祭，为凡黎祈福。呼伦贝尔市委书记连辑2001年夏视察工作经过宝格德乌拉山，正值盛况空前的祭祀盛会。欣然挥毫写下了“草原六月绿初匀，帐下枯灯照老僧，但为牛羊人祈雨，跪听坐诵平安经”的诗句。
公元2002年六月二十三日』
看似不高的山，但是登到山顶还是让我在石阶上休息了三次，气喘吁吁。山上的风更加直白突兀，几乎吹得人站立不稳。山顶有一个巨大的敖包，这也是呼盟最大的敖包之一，从山顶平台处算起有三级，足有十余米高。底座由石块堆砌，柳条中间插有主幡杆，在基座上约高10米，敖包东南西北各有3个副幡杆。敖包上插有很多杆子，上面挂满经旗和哈达，以蓝色居多。蒙古哈达颜色有红白蓝黄绿五种。蓝色表示蓝天，蒙古人崇拜“腾格里”，即天或者天神，也称为长生天，因此以蓝为尊，认为蓝色象征着永恒、坚贞和忠诚，蒙古族人把草原称为“蓝色的草原”，记得德德玛的演唱过的一首歌曲便是《蓝色的蒙古高原》。蒙古族在迎接贵宾的时候，都是敬献蓝色哈达，而不是白色的。黄色象征大地；红色是愉快的颜色，象征着幸福胜利和亲热；白色是白云；绿色是江河水。我们通常熟悉的西藏的哈达实际上是在元朝时期从蒙古传入的。当年，八思巴会见元世祖忽必烈回西藏时，带回了第一条哈达。
按照习俗，我们绕敖包顺时针走了3圈，向敖包上投撒了一些糖果和谷物，并默默地在敖包边许愿。细看敖包，枝条内滞留很多糖果、稻米、钱币，还有串结的小羊耳朵，枝条的经旗上面刻画着玄妙的佛教图案和梵文。
从山顶向下望去，茫茫草原如绿色的海洋向天边无限伸展，风将敖包上的经旗与哈达吹得呼呼作响，在我们耳边吟唱草原千百年的沧桑。多少年，有多少人，曾走过我们眼中这片草原？曾带着或喜或悲的心情，站在这片四野空旷的草地，静静地，听着心灵深处的低喃诉说。天上的雄鹰，俯瞰辽阔的草原，谁的眼睛看得最远？万里晴空，阳光普照，没有任何东西阻挡你的视线。草原的天特别蓝，地绿的那样鲜，两种颜色在天边合成一线。人仿佛就站在画间，在呼呼的风声中，却又出奇的安静。清新的空气自动流进你的全身，一切都是天然的、清新的、和谐的，你会感到从来没有的自由，完全融入自然。
晚上七点钟，我们回到了贝尔。在贝尔边防派出所短暂逗留片刻后，赶回巴彦塔拉。原路经过乌尔逊河浮桥的时候，太阳刚刚落山，在晚霞的映照下，乌尔逊河显的更加宁静与安详。它像一条蜿蜒的丝带，连接着传说中的英雄贝尔与他的情人呼伦姑娘。
第四天：草原深处情深处
7月31日巴彦塔拉草原-贝尔湖早上遇到一件有意思的事情。大家起来时候，巴图的儿子博桐还在睡觉。博桐的奶奶怕孙子被吵醒，便把小门关上。不多时，博桐的爷爷以为是我们把门关上了，过来又把门打开， 说让他的孙子通通风。爷爷走后一分钟，奶奶又过来了，怕孙子被吵醒又把门关上。奶奶走后，爷爷又过来把门打开……这就是我遇到的两个有趣的蒙古族老人。
去一次草原深处真正的蒙古包，是我们此行的一个愿望。千百年来，草原都是寂寞而单调的，牧民能够迎到来自远方的朋友是令他们高兴的事。虽然现在牧民们几乎都有了摩托车或汽车，但是热情好客的传统却没有因此而改变。
在巴图的指引下，我们驱车前往巴彦塔拉苏木北面的草原。不久一座洁白的蒙古包出现在我们的视野当中，包的后面竖立着一个用来发电的风车，旁边停放勒勒车。我们的车在包外停下后，几只狼狗对着我们狂吠不已。一位看起来不到40岁的男主人出来跟巴图寒暄了几句后，便很礼貌地示意我们到屋里坐。蒙古包具有浓郁的草原游牧民族文化特怔。蒙古高原地处内陆，气候寒冷、干燥、多变，牲畜对气候和草场的依赖性促使牧民一年数次地逐水草而居，有时甚至距离很远。易建易拆、冬暖夏凉正是蒙古包为适应游牧的特点和蒙古高原的自然环境所具备的特性。进入这个蒙古包，包内陈设很整齐，迎面并没有看到成吉思汗的画像，也许是主人比较年轻的缘故吧。我们坐在了门内左侧，靠门一侧放置着水具和炊具。谈话间，一只小狗扒在门槛上露着脑袋像里面张望，神态极其乖巧可爱。蒙古包是蒙古人家庭的重要象征，一个蒙古包就是一个家。有民歌这样描写蒙古包：“因为仿照蓝天的样子，才是圆圆的包顶。由于仿照白云的颜色，才用洁白的羊毛制成。这就是穹庐，我们蒙古人的家庭；因为仿照苍天的形体，天窗才是太阳的象征。由于仿造天体的星座，围壁才是月亮的圆形。这就是穹庐，我们蒙古人的家庭。”
从蒙古包出来继续向北，我们远远看到了一个庞大的羊群。巴图说那里至少有上千只羊。草原上的牧人其实上是很富有的。不过如果遇到天灾疾病等，羊群的损失也可能是会在一夜之间。此时天空已经飘落起雨滴，牧羊人骑着马在草原上飞奔回家，放任他的羊群自己去吃草。我们开足马力追赶上了骑马的牧人，巴图哥跟牧人说了几句后，我们便逐个登上马鞍，在真正的蒙古草原上骑了一回蒙古马，只能幻想着马儿在奔驰，我们这些仅仅在城里骑过被驯服拍照游玩的马匹的人儿，根本没有驾驭这些彪悍的蒙古马的能力。巴图最后也骑了骑这匹马，我让他这个蒙古人骑着奔跑一段，他晃着脑袋，用带着蒙语口音的汉语说：“不-不--，这马厉害的、厉害的……”
我们还在寻觅着草原原始风情的时候，哥哥接到了胡日查的电话说他在贝尔湖边准备了鱼宴，让我们一定要去。盛情难却，我们于是掉转车头再次奔赴贝尔湖。一点钟我们到达了贝尔湖边一处经过特殊批准的开设的湖滨饭店，这个饭店是数个大型蒙古包搭建而成，我们进入最东面的一个蒙古包后没几分钟，各种贝尔湖产的鱼便被烹调成各种口味依次端上桌来。烧狗鱼、炖鲤鱼、茄子鲇鱼、煎银鱼、脆炸鲤鱼皮、煮白鱼、纯渔丸汤…… 吃了几天羊肉，今日能够品尝如此多天然的鱼味，真是鲜美无比，惹得我们大流口水。哥哥与巴图胡日查他们喝酒，而我们几个则大嚼鱼肉……
席间发生了这样一件事。胡日查为了宴请我们还专门带来三条鱼送去后厨，但是我们边吃边等了许久也没有见到那三条鱼上来。胡日查便亲自去催问，回来后一脸怒气说他们的领导也来这里用餐，厨师为了讨好领导将他带来的三条鱼做了两条给领导端去了，只剩下一条鱼。蒙古人火气大，他当时就火了，将剩下的那条鱼连同厨师的锅顺窗户都扔到了外面，厨师也是个蒙古人，依仗着他们的副苏木（镇长）在，照胡日查脸给了他一拳。因为身份特殊不能打架，胡日查回来后跟我们说了情况，大家听了都很气愤。巴图、秀全和大哥都是膀大腰圆的大汉，得知胡日查为我们挨了一拳都义愤填膺，但是怕他喝多打架受处分便让他留在席间，巴图和哥哥去后厨找厨师理论。不多时他们回来，情况令大家都诧异不已：厨师又说没有给领导，只是一下子忙不过来没做，还拎出了两条鱼作证明。现在这事情就像一个冤案没法解释清楚了，既可能是发生了误会也可能是那厨师在胡日查走后又找出两条鱼来洗脱罪责，湖边饭店鱼多得是，而谁也不无法辨清那鱼的模样。这个结果令本来就喝多了的胡日查大为恼火，厨师不仅把他的鱼做给别人还用别的鱼来解脱自己的过错，他挣脱了众人的围劝一下子便冲出蒙古包，我们赶紧都跟去防止事情闹大。待到厨房外时，胡日查和厨师已经从屋里打了出来，除了我们之外，饭店里的其他顾客也都忙着拉架，可两个人都好似受了刺激的老虎，众人拉住胡日查，厨师挣脱跟他扭在一起的大哥，捡起一个大石块我见状赶紧死死抱住那厨师的腰，那厨师又挣脱了我们欲冲回厨房被众人强行围住，整个饭店一片嘈杂……
席散临走时胡日查仍然怒气难消，我们车已开出饭店的围栏后看到胡日查的车又掉头转回饭店，远远看到饭店里的厨师和几个人背着手也慢悠悠地出来，情况很不妙。我们的车便加快速拦住了胡日查的车，把他驱回贝尔。因为喝了酒也因为明天即将离开呼伦贝尔了，一路上大哥不停地说他的好兄弟胡日查去年就为了他打仗，今年又为了他挨了一拳。很少掉泪的大哥有些抽泣，我们在后面都酸酸地。在这辽阔的呼伦贝尔大草原上，那兄弟般的情谊，真的就比贝尔湖水深，比乌尔逊河水还要长。
第五天：离开
8月1日巴彦塔拉-东旗-海拉尔-大庆时间过得真是太快了，今天就不得不离开呼伦贝尔。早上六点多，秀全便赶到巴图家来给我们送行，巴图的妻子、父母和他的儿子都跟我们告别，我们也依依不舍地说再见，并邀请他们有机会一定要来黑龙江做客。巴图和秀全跟我们一同开车到东旗，在东旗吃了早饭，最后喝了一次草原上的奶茶后，他们在几天前迎接我们的地方跟我们挥手告别。
车子在草原中间的公路上飞快地奔驰着，音响中播放着那首我们百听不厌的《呼伦贝尔大草原》，从车内望去，不时出现的羊群、敖包、湖泊、蒙古包又都慢慢地消失在视线中。那平铺在天地之间的草原，是每个人心中的自由王国；烟波浩渺的湖水，是与草原相映的无限柔情。绿色与蓝色交织成的呼伦贝尔，充盈在我的眼中，却永远留在我的心里……
2004.08.16
注：部分历史资料摘自呼伦贝尔www.hulunbeier.com
作者：ohmygodlemon
