Xinjiang Miles by Wu Kai-yu in August 2004 a great country, Xinjiang, Xinjiang beautiful song nicely also popular, "We are a good place in Xinjiang," well-known image that people in Xinjiang are very distant and very mysterious. My husband and I retired, planning a Guiyang, southwest to the northwest of Xinjiang from the self-help travel. July 24 departure from Guiyang, which lasted 25 days and traveled about 12,000 kilometers, nearly equivalent to the Red Army's Long March to go for two years to enjoy the great rivers and mountains of the motherland infinite Xiuse and colorful ethnic customs. Less than Xinjiang, I do not know the motherland's great, to Xinjiang, I discovered the beauty of Xinjiang.
(A) via Xian as early as a month ago, we bought the Guiyang in Guiyang, Xi'an, 4.5 discount airline tickets, 380, 7 days ago in Guiyang bought from Xi'an to Korla, Xinjiang's sleeper train tickets, 287 yuan. At 15 o'clock on July 24 from Guiyang airport more than an hour away from the Xianyang, by air-traffic bus to Xi'an, playing live in Xiaozhai hotel. Taxi and had to wear the ancient city of Chang'an, stands firmly in the Ming Dynasty in Xi'an ancient city wall to the central area surrounded by a rectangular ancient castle, the castle center is the magnificent bell tower, surrounded by considerable ethnic characteristics of the buildings and prosperous commercial district. Night, night view of Xi'an, the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang recommendations of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda built in the lights in the even more majestic and solemn, next to the fountain on the square with the rhythm of the music to the people sprayed with bursts of cool. Ancient history and modern civilization is intertwined with here.
The next morning, bus to more than 30 kilometers away from Xi'an to visit the scenic spots and the Terracotta Warriors. With Li Huaqing Hot Spring Hill, sights, set palace, Tangchi, pavilions in a, is a long history of royal gardens. King You of Zhou flames of drama princes, Xuanzong patronize Concubine Yang, Chang-Bing admonish the historical story of Chiang Kai-shek, etc., can be found here remains. Let me interested in the existing hot springs here, was also a lot of money can be 10 yuan a hot spa bath, hot springs wash hands under the faucet took only fifty cents.
Take the bus or walk 5 kilometers further to the west of the Terracotta Warriors went to the pit. This is the 1974-1976 excavations at the east of Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum 3 Peizang Keng. Total of about 8000 with real live horses, and other real objects the size of the ceramic materials, known as one of the world's eight wonders. Now, on top of each pit has already had built a magnificent grand museum, visitors enter the museum, you can walk around the pits around the tour. It is clear that the an underground tunnel, the firing of the pottery very realistic but hard goods arranged in a regular military array. Some did not discover the place, faintly visible wooden beams placed horizontally above the roadway, paved with mats, covered with mud. Those who collapsed areas off their feet,缺胳膊少腿. Nevertheless, it was a massive undertaking, exquisite pottery, the level of physical shape, so I praise today's people of the world have never been to a lot of visitors here, especially a foreigner.
(B) the granary of the Hexi Corridor in Gansu ----
At 6:00 p.m. on July 25, in Xi'an, the train ride up Korla, the temperature 35 degrees, very hot. Evening before Baoji, Lanzhou, what was invisible. 26 Guo Wuwei, Zhangye, Jiuquan, Jiayuguan, Yumen, Dunhuang, the band collectively referred to as the Hexi Corridor, the ancient Silk Road, the traffic must pass through arteries, the ancient poet of the desert border. I saw the size of the railway both sides of the dumpling-like dark gray sand stone awash in a desolate place. But here is relatively low-lying to the south the snow-pray with ice and snow melt water flow down the mountain for its development of agriculture and animal husbandry provided the conditions, a number of places where water has become an oasis. It has neat rows of green farmland shelter forest will be the central Wai Lin Founder field between the large but, let me, who came from the mountains of Guizhou, envy, and corn are heading, all the crops are growing vigorously, cattle and sheep grazing leisurely on the grass, said this area is the breadbasket of Gansu. Guo Jiayuguan and see the dream of most Western Wall, in fact, it is not perceived as ambitious, sallow mud gravel Ben Zhu made, and the walls nearly as high as ordinary farmers, but it was tremendous destruction, everywhere Cangsang, but several post-built tower was also some style. No need to repair the ancient Great Wall, and it is left to posterity a historical echoes.
(C) the Gobi Desert in the beautiful --- Korla
27, 5 am, the train stopped Turpan station, The sky is dark, there are a bunch of young people get off, is to Turpan tour of Guangdong students, in fact, from the Turpan city, where there are more than 50 kilometers. 8:00 dawn, trucks of the fish ditch. Railway both sides of the endless vast Gobi extended forward, there is no signs of human habitation, no green, endless sand dunes and stone beaches are everything here. Top of the distant mountains, snow-capped, crystal bright, it was beautiful Tianshan. Noon to balgantai, hot weather, workers braved the summer heat trying to fix the double-track railways, working very hard. After a and static, to the Yanqi, Oasis, better and Construction Corps, where reclaiming farmland out of a film, and attracted the Tianshan snow water irrigation, crops grown very well. 16:00 the train arrived in Korla, moved into an apartment tower that reception, 130 yuan standard, we have opened two days. Korla is the capital of Bayan Mongolian Autonomous Prefecture, Xinjiang's second largest city in the Tarim oil exploration in recent years, giving the city a limitless vitality, wheel sets to send natural gas east, but also to make it even more powerful, rapid economic growth. The streets clean, new buildings everywhere, trees, lawns, such as weaving, flowers in full bloom was actually a school of tropical scenery. Most of the flower is a very delicate petunia, red, white, powder a variety of colors, very bright beautiful, but this flower, if one day without water, then finished it Danian, Korla dare kinds of such a flower, undoubtedly send a message to the world - Korla is the Gobi Desert of the most affluent of the most beautiful city. Look closely, you will find, regardless of the streets, each tree, grass per plant next to, there are many, such as capillary-like drip irrigation pipe, garden department will not hesitate to bottled water for these flowers and trees, do not worry about the sun's grill and garden worker's negligence. In the evening, the lights bright Korla, Kongquehe reflects the city's fascinating figure. We walk through the Peacock River, watching Mongolian, Uighur compatriots "Hundred Days Square activities," the street stalls charcoal grilled lamb flushing, blowing and Meat attractive, old people sit around watch open-air movies, young people prefer to take the speedboat water rides, the children learn to swim jump into the river, look to see if they swim really ridiculous, people who can not swim on the desert it is quite normal ah, but, after all, it all has a new beginning.
(D) of Populus euphratica, and Tarim, Rob human village, the Taklimakan Desert
July 28 morning, we intend to participate in tours to the train station to the village of Wei Rob pears to make day trips, saying no, and no passenger station to the bus Wei pears. Fortunately, a Szechwan the taxi driver told us, united only cars went to South Wei pears. Road to unity or not public transportation, and finally back to Wei pears with two Uygur cadres Santala with a car ride to go to 10 yuan per person, distance 50 km. In Xinjiang, you must learn to work with others. By Wei pear county, then the two of us rented a Uygurs Changan car 90 yuan package back and forth, and thus the voyage towards Rob who ran the village, we saw the green grass on both sides of Highway One person tall, boundless side. Reminds me of an ancient poetry: the green and wild and fog, wind-swept pastures see the sheep and cattle. Want to come then a pair of green bar will certainly have a lot of cattle and sheep. However, the driver told me that it was reed, cattle and sheep do not eat. Can not think of it, only know how long the water reed To her surprise, also has Gobi Desert, it is a good papermaking raw material. Gradually less green grass and yellow sand is exposed, some low trees appear in our sight, we hardly pay attention at first, slowly, more and more trees, and thick high-mostly, and Zhuiman The lateral branch of green leaves extending to four weeks, beautiful tree, like the artist's masterpiece, a large suburb of looks a bit like Korla Pear. This, of course is a Populus euphratica. It is said of a planet's most ancient poplar, and the vitality of an exceptionally strong, "born alive a thousand years, death being overthrown in a thousand years, but never broken down a thousand years" is the hero of the desert trees. We hurriedly called the driver to stop, to his own shadow freeze-frame in the hero's side. Populus euphratica is said that a golden autumn, it can be called a real landscape. Through the Populus euphratica, to Rob who had a village, received 20 yuan tickets and went in. It turned out a man-made village of Rob, which Rob built a number of people living in sod houses, stocked with Rob were fishing and living The utensils, several staff members sit there and chat, there is a man from the village hired Rob centenary old man sitting there, waiting and tourists photographed, according to a fee for each 10 yuan. In fact, this area there are a lot of people Rob village, who was originally said to Rob Lop Nor of indigenous people, fishing for a living, dried up after the Lop Nor moved to here and still live a primitive self-sufficient life, in the end they are race, national , today's Chinese and foreign scholars and experts have all have their own say. Rob the village edge, a small river from west to the eastward, the river is very muddy riverbed is very shallow, almost a ditch, which is the country's longest inland river - the Tarim River, is about to stop here, and a bit disappointing. Fortunately, the Taklimakan Desert and its intersection here, there is always something worth a visit. The bridge across the river, you will have an impulse before your eyes are endless yellow sand, a seat with undulating dunes stretching. I come! This is to let a lot of people curious about yearning for fear of the Taklimakan Desert but do? Go go, a very fine yellow sand is very soft, shoes are always a deep fall into the trap to go, simply put shoes off, and not, very hot. Continue to walk on to the sand dunes and tried to always step back half a step, finally, on to the top of the dunes in front of another, there is no end. Sand and connected to distant days, the sky gray, the color monotonous, near a special light, people could not open the eyes. Climbed over two dunes, so tired No choice but to go retracement. In fact, here is just the edge of the Taklimakan Desert, go look inside, its name is sea of death. But the more such places, the oil reserves larger Tarim oilfield is one of a part of. It is now in the round of the South and Minfeng north and south between the repair of one aspect of the highway through the desert hinterland of a total length of 400 km, by car through the desert now a possibility.
(E) Asihati taught me to ride to the Korla day (27 days), we went to enroll in the sun on the 4th tour travel agents, each 580 yuan. 29, early in the morning to travel to the car, Who would have thought we were sold Guomai travel agents, because only three to register for this, but Guomai travel agencies have four enrollment, so the seven of us became a group, together with A total of nine drivers and tour guides. Like us to Korla to attend college was low, people did not expect. Gold Cup by a 10 o'clock start, Xinjiang, people work longer than two hours late in the Mainland. A city is the Gobi, boundless border, a desolate beauty. 2:00 arrival balgantai lunch - noodles. Then go west, gradually with the grasslands, but some yellow grass is said to be reasons for the low rainfall this year. Many cattle and sheep, each group there are always a 200, a shepherd leisurely riding horses, ferocious Shepherd vigilant inspection four weeks. Mongolians mainly live in this area, the Qing Dynasty, under pressure from the Tsarist Russia of the Wo Baxi owned by descendants of the East, they are very patriotic to a nation. Approaching kunas, the grass is more green color a bit. Into the valley, kunes he appeared in around us, it is not clear the water is not bottomed out, seems to look inside pour some milk, cream, Tianshan snow melt water may have been like this, the two sides of the slopes, Tasson extremely dense spruce , and used to be called kunas forest, forest workers, the task of logging, but now renamed as kunas National Forest Park, Bavaria has become the one bright spots, loggers are also diverted to do something else. 10 o'clock darkness, to pull narat town, accommodation.
At 10:00 on the 30th, take advantage of the narat Prairie Gold Cup. Narat grassland is a high-altitude grasslands, elevation higher than the town, several hundred meters. Our car along the narrow winding mountain road up, grassland slowly, and an even one, the grass is green Hennen, Mimicengceng, as artificially propagated lawn. Low wet places, Tasson into the film growth, straight point to blue sky, wild fruits sub-trees, wild flowers are everywhere, are there Marmot haunt in the hole, to sit in our car looked. More than an hour, we finally reach their destination. It was an open pasture, and the light streams flowing Qi the shore, cattle and sheep, such as pearls sprinkled grasslands, and sometimes a Baiyun Piao blue sky, the clouds projected on the grass, soon drift away, Kazak boy riding a horse chasing each other on the grasslands. To see us, they are enthusiastically surround over, asked us whether or not to ride, one hour 20. I quickly selected Esihati horse, I feel that his horse seemed relatively tame. Asihati is a Kazakh boy 13 years old this year, and a look of Gaoyuanhong. He and his sister in a Han Chinese primary school in fifth grade, so they can still Han said. Although on the primary can be good schools, tens of miles away from home, brother and sister both live at the school to study, their light a fire to cook, to go home once a week. When we go during the summer, he and partners to treat the family to ride horse-drawn out to tourists, Zhengdian tuition, Western children are not quite easy. I get on a horse, put on pedals, Esihati sitting behind me. He told me to relax the reins on the fast-running horse, tighten the reins to stop horse forward, pull the left rein to turn left on horses, pull the right rein to turn right on the horse, I have to follow suit quickly grasp the essentials, Zermatt Mercedes-Benz in the grasslands feeling really good, I think this is in Xinjiang Zuishuang day. Take a look at the hour is late, tour guides took us to a Kazakh nomads yurt to go for dinner, the owner very well-off, immediately kill the one sheep, playing Nang, fried cake, noodles, boiled milk, and so eating a calculation, 300 pluralistic, guides shocked quarrel with the master up, but do not want our business, we do not utter a sound. However, suggest that you eat at home after going to herdsmen should first set the type and quantities of good food, speak a good price. Night, the former forestry worker to live kunas opened hotel, but also clean.
31, the morning, tour guides arranged for us to climb kunas behind two mountains, he and the drivers waiting for us at the foot of the mountain. First on the west PTZ, kinda high, and spent an hour before boarding the Peak, landscape quite well, the northern slope of the spruce Tasson tall and straight but thick, from the top of the tree to the most lower branches have to see go up a bit unreal. The southern slope of a lot of wild flowers, colorful.
East of the mountains from a boardwalk down to the upper berth, quite good to go, but already a bit tired, on the Mid-Levels mushrooms, mushroom immense and very thick, mostly white, color can not eat toxic, taken back to the hotel owner He identified after the processing for us to taste, taste is very fresh. Afternoons Panchen ditch Panchen Lama is said to Xinjiang when he lived here for several days, chanting in meditation under a tree, accept the world worship. We went when the tree in front of a man-made mound, next to the monument is inscribed with a number of scriptures, we do not recognize and follow visitors around the turn of the man-made mound three times and two dollars donated money to plug cracks in the man-made mound of stones We have done so, I do not know whose idea. Panchen ditch does the United States, it is one of kunas Valley, Tianshan snow and ice melt-water valley from east to west flow of Shun, and we take off your shoes to walk in the water, biting cold. Slopes on both sides of Tasson spruce upright and lush, the lower wildflowers Everywhere, there is a flower hanging down like the Admiralty, a large purple-red, tour guides say it is Codonopsis, peer playmate incredibly excited, dig, and dig Stubbs Yeah, but tightly Codonopsis buried too deeply, and failed to excavate a large. Did not expect such a well-known Chinese herbal medicines are everywhere even here.
(F) Ili water waves turned
August 1 tours the end of the mandate to return Korla, we do not intend to backtrack, and decided to go west from the Mission,. But here is the state and static Bayan County, while the narat a new state of the town of Yining is a source of county, 60 km apart between the two places, there is no bus traffic is very inconvenient, had implored a just concluded kunas trip tours, please go there they took us to the town of Lahti, finally agreed. We are very pleased Zuoshang Che, when there are more than 10 kilometers away from the narat when the tour guide told us to get off, saying that they have to shunt to another place. Carrying a gray backpack that we had to get off the Buzhao days, the next Buzhao, the very helpless. Fortunately, soon came in a Kazakh herders Changan operating the truck waving stopped, and the inside are filled to capacity, and all Kazakhs, wow wow la la say what we all did not understand, like when they go abroad . By narat town, quickly got on a bus traveling from Korla to Kashi, Yining pass the bus, finally successful.
Buses sat mostly Uygur people, who spoke Uygur, then the car stood Uygur songs, here we are a real minority. Along the way we watch the scenery, the beautiful Ili River flows from east to west, the last exit into the Republic of Kazakhstan. Reveal layers of milky water waves, the shore is a dense forest, far from the pastures and farms, large neat Tianchou on the green crops boundless side, this belt is the development of Xinjiang was the first place, it is rich, really makes Jaaksi. 17:30, bus to Yining, live Asia hotels, standard room 100 yuan, we have opened two days.
(Vii) Sailimuhu, Horgos Port, Ili Da Yining Bridge the night of the wedding went to a nearby day trip to consult a travel agency on matters not that no one application, if we want to go, then They can send a Santala, with a guide, 400 dollars a day. No way, and only reluctantly luxury once. August 2 morning, drivers and tour guides to the hotel to the door to meet us. Reaching out of the city, the roadside village of peasant, Ben Zhu's low-rise walls surrounded by a one courtyard, the courtyard is a low, mud room, flat-topped, hospital apple, peach, apricot covered with branches, I think they housing up to much, but the tour guide said that this house Dongnuanxialiang, very good. We have bought quite a few in their door peach, apricot, Li. Tour guide told me that the fruit trees here, no pesticide use, there will be no fruit flies, so I do not need to wash not need peeling, I am dubious about using toilet paper rub eat together, it is fresh and sweet. Vehicles to enter the 321 national highway, roads on both sides of a tall poplar shelterbelts, fields, the golden sunflower, and corn are heading, is not yet ripe grapes, and cotton are flowering. Here the soil seems gray, is very fertile, as long as there is water, crops are grown well. Into the guozigou and would like to look at the pen, Mr. Bi Ye's "hundred flowers where no tours, hundreds of years nobody Zhai cooked fruit," the scene, but the 28 kilometers long guozigou a fruit had not looked at, Dao Shi road side slopes covered with Schrenk's spruce, bulletin board reads: Protection of natural forests, power in the contemporary, will benefit future generations. It seems it is a natural forest. After a guozigou the car along the winding road up, Several turnings, the beautiful Sailimuhu are displayed in front of us. It is a plateau lake, stream coming from the east, where snow and ice melt-water pool, while the west has not been exported, creating some 600 square kilometers of the Great Lakes, sunny days, azure blue lake. When we went to was a cloudy, gray everywhere, so we are seeing is a Silver Lake, lake forest sandwiched grasslands, Kazak yurt spread the meantime, of course, horses and sheep.
The next destination is the Horgos Port. We follow the same route to return to the water, guides say to do to get off the border card, and later learned that the elderly can be virtue of the identity. Horgos Port is a port of trade between China and Kazakhstan, in the ports on the Chinese side, there is a small commodity market, wool shawls, Turkish tapestries, very beautiful, all kinds of jewelry, Yingjisha knife, really everything. We bought a 20 yuan ticket to enter port visit, we saw very busy here, customs clearance, container trucks equipped with long line waiting for border inspection, from Kazakhstan to the car are mostly empty, there relatively scarce materials, our side of the truck-mounted to a very full, anything to the Chinese side is very rare. Our pillar before the camera, standing next to the mighty Chinese border, hearts filled with endless pride. However, we still see a stigma here, monument, it is Tsarist Russia, the Qing government and the treaty entered into Ili relic of a big piece of land burned by the Tsar accounted for in the past, until more than 10 years ago, the Chinese government and Kazakhstan before With a compromise solution.
Yining City Yili River Bridge is located in the west of Ili River flows from east to west, from north to south across the bridge was on it, whenever the sunset, sunset Dress sky, the river was the setting sun dyed, Tianshui the same color, standing on the bridge the distance, makes people feel good, here is a rare beauty. We came back from the Horgos time a little bit early, but also it began to rain, but to the end of a one-day tour returned to the hotel resting. After dinner, 9 o'clock, sunny days together, the sun has not gone down, we spent 5 yuan by taxi to the Ili Bridge. Sure enough, live up to this line, see the bridge sunset the whole process is interesting that young people have also seen the wedding of Kazakhstan. Kazakh city of Yining young married, there is a wonderful program, that is, before sunset, the bride wore a Western-style wedding, the groom wearing a suit, playing the accordion sound of hand, in the company of friends and relatives, they slowly walked Ili Bridge, also requested a special team for this process of photography, of course, to bear witness to their love and marriage, everlasting and unchanging. These shows every day, is said to Saturdays, Sundays up, it has become a local custom.
(Viii) oasis, oil field, Mo Guicheng,
At 9:00 on August 3 passenger transport bus from Yining, pass through the northern foot of Tianshan Mountains to the essence of Usu Kuitun. Production Corps, along the way everywhere, not far there is a large oasis, crops long did well. At noon on a small town on the parking in front of a restaurant to eat lunch, the driver was invited to the inside of the master, the owner went quickly gave them the side with a big mutton and noodles, in this wilderness, the owner of the business on the entirely-driver. I carefully observed their customers to do noodles process: surface lay on the pot after cooking, remove and come in the raw water Li Jin, and then out on the clutch plate, then tomatoes, celery, green pepper and the Class fried good fell to the surface, your point there is a few small points, beef and mutton, a bowl of noodles, it may lead, and about 8 yuan. I do not advocate on the raw water will be interviewed by Li Jin of the shop for me to do a bowl of noodles with chopsticks so thick, addition of weight, eat half of the left half of the Xinjiang people are used to, and no one say no. The most embarrassing is that there is no toilet, it is necessary to facilitate the wilderness of North Korea walked behind the hotel, without shelter, in broad daylight, in here, no need to install Sven, no one condemned you, everyone is the same as with the nature of cattle and sheep, and the name of all call animals. In the subsequent long-distance car, I got used to this way. 19:00 arrive Kuitun, live transmission guest houses, standard room 70 yuan. Kuytun is a city of immigrants, the Han more, prices cheap, food tastes good.
Early morning of August 4, from the Kuytun Corps air-conditioned bus transportation company by proceeding along the gurban Tongut the western edge of the desert to go through Karamay, Urho to Burqin. Kuitun north, rows of poplars planted shelterbelts around the Corps, crops, Tianchou neat, cotton up, as well as corn, sunflower. Further north, it is blowing in the desert, and hundreds of kilometers of road lines, on both sides of hundreds of thousands of wells, pumping unit is in operation, it was slowly Ke head looks a bit like a superficial and out of the oil through the piped into the tank, and then sent to the refinery processed lose. Not see the workers on site, completely automated operation. This is the Karamay. Karamay city in the middle of oil fields, the new building a block, street and tidy, tree-lined, hard-working and wise people attracted Karamay Irtysh water, greening the city very beautiful, and our car from the edge of the town through the , a mirage in the desert in front of, but it is not a mirage. Before noon, Urho, the landscape with some special, nowhere to be seen, there are a number of earth and rock units, more than a few meters above the ground ranging from several tens of meters, like grotesque, gods, people call it Mo Guicheng, scientists It's called Yardang Landform is the number of million years of wind and rain erosion and wind sculpted results. Burqin County arrived in the afternoon, living passenger guest houses, standard room 100 yuan. Burqin County in Altay Prefecture is a beautiful little town, there are 160 km away from the Kanas, Kanas National Nature Reserve portal.
(9) Human Pure Land Kanas
Early morning of August 5, we Burqin terminal waiting for a train to the Kanas, there would be no buses to go, can only be played, and 200 yuan, there are generally more economical to gather sufficient four people. Urumqi, etc. to finally come from the night bus, but some three-gang, and some group of five people, will not work. Finally came two Sun Yat-sen's students, we helped the driver to go to convince them, they also look to make the alert for fear of being deceived, our patience and attitudes are good to the extreme, and so they are slowly eating breakfast, the driver has to drive to send them running a border card, more than 10 minutes before departure. First off grassland, the way all the cattle and sheep herders, the crowd rarely seen. The second half followed a winding gravel, narrow, traffic is also bad, until one o'clock until noon to. Kanas National Nature Reserve and Xinjiang are the most unique natural scenic spots, there is the snow-peaks, luxuriant virgin forest ecological system, China's deepest alpine lake, Kanas lake is said to have monster, herders of cattle Sheep graze the shore often disappear for no reason, there have been a lot of people carried out exploration and study, but has not had the results, the scientists found that this is a big red fish called salmon Hucho, there may be more than 10 meters long , very scary. With a bit yearning and curious, and we embarked on a piece of Pure Land Kanas.
After a Jarden valley, into the Kanas valley. Kanas River came to us the face of the Pentium, water blue, but also with a dash of cream, the two sides into a piece of birch hill towering straight, foot flat where the green grass and wild flowers everywhere, cattle and sheep grazing leisurely . After a frontier post, a number of broad rivers, and winding. The so-called Wolong Bay, fairy Bay, Kamosawa Lake, Kanas Lake Kanas is connected between the river bend, shape beautiful, especially the heights overlooking the stand, such as jade jade belt mounted on the mountains . The driver to take us to the "Business Village" accommodation, 180 yuan a night's log cabin, in fact, apart from two beds nothing. The Mansion of the wooden huts rented to local Tuvans do business, those who commercialized the red and green cottage expensive to person ranging from 500-1000 yuan, but also to one month in advance in order to set to.
We took a scenic green cars proceed through the thick pine forest, full of wild flowers across the lawn, came to Kanas Lake. A big lake, ah, blue water, melt milk blue, the beautiful stretch of the pier lake, Lake surrounded by mountains and trees are tall and dense, white clouds floating mountainside, is the blue sky overhead. People have boarded the tourist pier, or take photographs, or watching, and some went straight to the lake shore speedboat ride, enjoy this piece to melt into the original beauty of nature. Then we take the scenic car across the bridge to the other side of the lake, side and another tourist trucks up to Guan Yu Ting. Guanyu Pavilion Lake is located in the West Bank, Kazakhstan opened special mountain peak, about 700 meters higher than the lake, standing on peak overlooking the north, snow-capped peaks of friendship, blanketed by trees, it is China and Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan, the four countries of the border. At the foot of a vast lake, shuttle boats on the lake in the distance the arrival of tourists had broken the quiet Kanas, as monsters, people do not seem to care about whether it does not worry about its appearance. The evening, Kanas is still surrounded by noise of the two camps are being held outdoor bonfire party, recruited from the city have received more points trained singer, sang songs in Xinjiang finished the tickets of up to thirty or forty yuan.
August 6, we got up early, walk along the lake, sitting in the thick forests, the marching pine board paved Linjian Xiao Tao, listening to the foot of issuing crisp rhythmic sound, the shadow of Dawn The Kanas Lake tranquil and harmonious. United Nations officials inspected Kanas said Kanas value, is to prove the humanity incomparably beautiful habitat of the past. Now, such a wonderful habitat to become less and less, and Kanas also facing the same problem.
Farewell Tuvans fellow, good-bye cabins, we had to leave Kanas. People are said to Tuva Mongol one, when the footsteps of Genghis Khan Altay through the descendants of old and sick left behind, the existing fewer than 2,000 people, this secluded and beautiful environment of the place has become their home. Tuva people with hunting and herding for their livelihood and have their own language, religious practices. Houses built of wood and surrounded by floor ceiling are wood Lei Qi, looks a bit like a yurt, top covered with mud, the roof of grass still grow very high, this house is said to Dongnuanxialiang. Our owner is more than 40 middle-aged man can say a simple Han, we say Wo Baxi, and Genghis Khan, he also noncommittal, for their life experience a variety of still another argument. Now he will be a daily task is to ride a horse-drawn out to the guests a day can earn up to a few dozen on the hundred dollars, the National Day after the snowbound mountainous, very few tourists. Finally, we gave him a melon, he was pleased to accept. Gather the four individuals, take a taxi back to Burqin, still live in Ferry hotels, discount of 20 yuan more than the day before yesterday. Burqin evening stroll the night market, the Uighur's grilled fish, kebabs Trinidad and Tobago, the taste is not bad. Stadium, where there is the "Hundred Days Square activities", and we sat in the stands for a while and enjoy the authentic Xinjiang folk dance, especially the two hosts were used in Chinese and Uighur announcer is really interesting.
(10) Turpan Karez, Sugong tower, Grape Valley
August 7 early in the morning by bus to leave the Burqin, from backtrack Kuitun. There are two Dutch men on board, 50-year-old, um, surrounded by a Chinese girl accompany tours, look annoyed. The other one was a young man, face hair, the lower lip was also wearing a ring the size of a silver lip ring, I may be a rare multi-strange.
August 8 from the Kuitun ride to Urumqi via Shihezi, here is the liberation of the early frontier and the Shanghai branch side of youth with the sweat watered the Land Reclamation base, the Xinjiang region of grain, cotton, oil, sugar, textiles, the main producing areas, roads on both sides of the crops bloom cheerfully, truly an oasis. 12:00 bus to Urumqi, Turpan We Ride buses go via Salt Lake and Dabancheng, nowhere to be seen, a Salt Lake vast expanse of whiteness, while the Dabancheng more than 10 kilometers along the highway within a few hundred cars a typhoon rules were neatly arranged in the wilderness , each windmill has three enormous silver shiny impeller, driven by the wind rotating around the clock, through the power plant conversion, the power delivered to Urumqi and other places. Dabancheng long braids girl did not see. Two in the afternoon arrived in Turpan, live in 168 hotels, standard room 120.
Look at the time still early, we take 1 yuan for public transport to travel around the Karez, take public transport to travel 2 yuan Sugong Tower. Turpan Karez in a lot of it is cited to take groundwater for gravity irrigation from the Tianshan Mountains, is actually a kind of underground canals, with a total length of several thousand kilometers, an embodiment of hard working people of ancient wisdom, it has a long history with the Great Wall, the Grand Canal and the Ancient China, said the three projects are still in effect. We enter the Karez, walking in the culvert on the shore, watching water has a long history, clear and bright, rising heart infinite respect. Karez above, is home to a number of Uighur villagers, we visited one of the Guli, Gul Xinjiang Medical College students in reading, summer home to help her mother manage tourism. Into the courtyard, we saw planes overhead Mimicengceng under the vines festooned with strings of crystal clear grapes are placed in the middle of the courtyard paved with several blankets xintaizi, the owner greeted us warmly sat on it, and then come up with just picked under the melon, watermelon, grapes and other fruits and entertain us. We also visited their houses, about their lives and customs, take pictures, finally paid 5 yuan per person. Sugong tower is Turpan Prince Sulaiman mark the Qing Dynasty, and Zhuo Emin Uygur leaders built, and there is 200 years of history, it is Islam in Xinjiang's largest ancient building in the existing tower, tower majestic tall, the appearance of the several dozens of patterns, colors popular in Xinjiang khaki-colored buildings. Next to a large mosque, with the formation of a tower overlooking a pattern of Yang, but also purely for naturals. Temple center of the hall, covered with the faithful used to kneel before owned carpet, surrounded by dozens of arches connected with each other, but do not see what they worship Allah, this is completely different from other religions, they may be in the heart of God.
August 9 to the terminal early in the morning to participate in Turpan day trip organized by travel agencies, 10 people by a Gold Cup, 60 yuan per person, including lunch. Main attractions are Flaming Mountains, Grape Valley, Ancient City of Gaochang, Bai Zi Creek Thousand-Buddha Caves.因当天最高气温达37度，我们要求早晨先游火焰山。 9点出发，直奔吐鲁番东边的火焰山。传说铜脑袋铁身子到了那里都要化成汁，唐僧西天取经时，多亏孙悟空借来了芭蕉扇，师徒四人才得以通过，我们受得了吗？出城不久，远远地看见一座座红山，呈上下方向的折皱条纹在太阳的照耀下如红色的火苗上升，坐在我旁边的一个老者，还在他的小本子上描摹着山体的形状，我好奇地向他打招呼，他居然只是笑笑，后来得知他是个日本人，不会汉语的。我们戴上墨镜，打着阳伞，小心翼翼地下了车，结果并不像想象的那样热，而且风还相当大，吹得手中的东西飘了起来，这时我们才放下心走近山体，不少穿着维吾尔族服饰的漂亮姑娘主动过来请我们与她们合影，还可以骑骆驼，当然是收费的，每次5——10元。火焰山是吐鲁番东部一种独特的景观，东西走向的一群山脉，约有百来公里长，南北10来公里宽。海拔500公尺左右，山体由红色砂岩、泥岩和砾岩组成，日晒风吹雨淋的结果，形成一条条上下折皱条纹，加上这里的气温很高，山顶地表气温最高可达七八十度，给人一种很强的威慑。
火焰山中段，木沟河西岸的悬崖峭壁上凿有一排佛洞，名叫柏孜克里克千佛洞，它是汽北朝时留下的佛教遗址，历经唐、宋、元代，始终是西域地区的佛教中心之一。公元13世纪，伊斯兰教的传入，佛教渐渐衰败，佛洞在异教冲突中惨遭破坏，19世纪初，又遭洋人的盗窃，佛洞已是面目全非。我们去的时候，能开放的洞只有二十多个，占应有洞窟的四分之一。洞口呈拱形，高约5米，宽约4米，进深大约七八米。走进洞内，讲解员拿着棍子在壁上比划，为游客讲述着洞壁上的内容和它不幸的遭遇。洞中的佛像据说雕塑和绘画相结合，强盗便把雕塑那部份割走，剩余的壁画便缺头少臂，有眼无珠，惨不忍睹，20元门票买来的是无言的愤慨。
葡萄沟是火焰山西侧的一个峡谷，长约七八公里，宽约一公里，葡萄沟人将天山雪水引进峡谷灌溉，使这个被称为火洲的地方成了瓜果飘香的人间乐园。我们买了60元的门票从沟的南面进入景区，因为已到中午，就先到一家农户家里吃中餐。主人院子不算很大，但头顶和四周都有绿色的葡萄屏障遮蔽着，门前是一片很大的葡萄园，感觉很凉爽。主人先摆出新鲜瓜果招待，然后问我们中餐吃什么，两个日本人和两个以色列人听不懂也不会说中国话，导游也不行，幸亏先生还能说一些英语，就权当一回翻译了。其实吃的也不是很复杂，无非是拌面和抓饭，这次我吃抓饭算了。接着，我们参观了景区的葡萄长廊、民俗园、葡萄酒酿造作坊。在葡萄长廊的浓荫下行走，身边是潺潺的溪流，头顶倒挂串串晶莹剔透的葡萄，衣着鲜艳的维吾尔族姑娘穿梭其间，长廊两边，维吾尔老乡向游客推销他们的葡萄干和水果，葡萄干的种类多得让你眼花缭乱，不用吃你都能感受到那浓浓的果香。民俗园里展示有巴依老爷的豪华住宅，它是维族同胞典型的民居，还有阿凡提的故居，也不知是真是假。民族餐厅里人们边吃边看维族歌舞表演。酿酒作坊中摆放原始的酿酒工具，工作人员向我们介绍酿酒的过程，不过很现代的工艺已代替了传统的方法。在作坊里的柜台前，我们坐在高高的独脚凳上，慢慢品尝现榨的葡萄汁和真正的葡萄酒，味道真是没得说的。
高昌故城在吐鲁番东南约40公里处，买10元票进入大门，远远地看见高低不平的黄色沙堆土堆，导游说进去有三公里远，很难走，建议大家坐驴车，我们不相信，自己步行，边走边看。只见城中有许多黄土和沙砾夯筑的土台土堆，据说是故城的寺院、宫殿、民居、作坊等等，倒是周围有比较完整的城墙，十几米高，这才有点像城的样子。我们仔细地寻找先人留下的遗物，那怕是生活用的陶器小碎片也行，但一无所获，要不是有历史的考证，谁能相信这是公元1世纪时西汉王朝屯田部队所建的古城呢？后来这里一直有人居住，也发生过多次战乱，古城元末明初毁于战火。
（十一） 博斯腾湖金沙滩
8月10日星期二，吐鲁番的气温是370C，9点钟在客运站乘车离开，出了城又是无边的戈壁。下午2点在库米什下车吃中餐，有两个四川年轻夫妇带着孩子游新疆，同车从吐鲁番过来，下车时打量我们可能是内地人，赶忙过来打招呼，问这问那，很亲热，到新疆旅游的内地人太少了，特别是自助游。 4点到乌什塔拉镇下车，25元打了个的士前往博斯腾湖的金沙滩，入住一家庄园，标准间70元，我们开了两天。后来才知道，平时这里比较冷清，价格也下浮，星期六、星期日比较火爆，游客大都是从乌鲁木齐、吐鲁番、库尔勒过来的当地人，住宿餐饮靠这两天都能赚不少钱。博斯腾湖是中国最大的内陆淡水湖，人称西海，面积有一千多平方公里，景区跨和硕、焉耆、博湖等县，美丽的博斯腾湖以水面浩瀚，风光秀丽著称，景区的龙头老大金沙滩更是得天独厚，去年就曾在这里举行过全国女子沙滩排球赛。绵延两千多米长几百米宽的沙滩会让你领略沙浴、水浴、日光浴的感觉，特别是那些沙漠中人，感受大海不是梦。休息了一会，我们就朝湖边走，沙滩上一顶顶鲜艳的太阳伞支撑着，伞下少不了穿泳装的男女，或躺着、或坐着，也有将身子埋在沙中的，泳场的安全范围用一些彩色漂浮物作界限，水中不少人在学游泳，都用游泳圈。我们是冲着这里可以游泳而去的，当然不会错过机会。很快我们就引起人们的注意，直夸我们游得好，其实在内地，我们还不及格呢。第二天没事，除了游泳便是闲逛，这是一种休闲旅游。据说旅游分三个级别，一级是观光游，走马观花，二级是体验游，一步三停留，三级是探险游，寻找刺激。到一个地方，不要妄图有多么迷人的风景等着你，只要有一种全新的体验全新的感觉就行。景区内宽广笔直的大道纵横交错，路边杨柳随风飘扬，不同档次的度假村上百家，可吃可住，都打着烹调博湖鱼虾的招牌招揽顾客。我们进了一家四川人开的餐馆，一看菜单，一盘鱼六十元，怎么这样贵啊？老板说不贵的，仅是鱼就有两公斤重。谁吃得了啊？最后老板同意只做半条鱼。据说为了保护博湖的鱼资源，小于两公斤的不让捕捞，否则罚款，我们错怪老板了。景区的外围，有个小渔村，几十户人家以捕鱼为生，要向当地政府交一定的钱领取捕鱼证才能下湖捕鱼，他们捕的鱼卖给当地的宾馆，供不应求。
（十二） 国际大巴扎、天山天池
8月12日一早，五人共乘一辆夏利车前往乌什塔拉镇，10点钟换乘从喀什开来的长途卧铺汽车，司机三人和售票员一人均把他们给自己留的铺位卖给旅客，这样能为自己增加些收入。我们两人得了一个卧铺，将鞋子脱下放在车门入口处，踩着地毯走进车厢，和大家一起开始了前往乌鲁木齐的行程。车上大多是维吾尔人，女人都戴着头巾，男人戴着小花帽，其实天气很热，穿戴这些可能只是一种民族标志。还有一两个非常执着的伊斯兰教女信徒，全身包裹得严严实实，只露出两个眼睛。我们小心翼翼，不敢乱说话，深怕有不尊重民族习惯的表现。维族人很会做生意，也比较有钱，妇女穿得花花绿绿，大都佩戴有金属首饰。这些人中大都是到乌鲁木齐国际大巴扎去采购物资的，然后贩运到喀什去卖。下午3点到达乌鲁木齐，住新疆粮油宾馆，红山公园附近，这是互联网上得到的信息，交通方便，价格适中，标准间100元，我们开了两天半。到乌鲁木齐，游国际大巴扎是首选，位于二道桥附近的国际大巴扎，是新疆民族风情最浓厚的地方。放下行李，我们便乘1元钱的公交前往。这一带居住的大多是维族人，与我们擦肩而过的大多是衣着艳丽的维吾尔妇女和戴小花帽的男人，也许不仅有维族，但我们分不清。路边的小商店和人行道上，摆放着当地时兴的商品：衣料，披肩，铜器，玉器，工艺品，英吉沙小刀。 . . . . .买卖平静地进行着。朝前走，“国际大巴扎”几个大字映入眼帘。两条平行的大街之间，三排高大的伊斯兰建筑群耸立，他们的功能主要是贸易，据说商铺就有三千多个，商品种类和质量比前边所说的高档多了。其中的一幢是观光性质的伊斯兰清真寺，旁边耸立着一座80多米高的观光塔，清一色的土黄，行走在街中，你仿佛置身在阿拉伯的国度。室外3000多平米美食广场，汇聚了全国56个民族的食品精华，当然最多的是新疆美食和饮料，如烤全羊、抓饭、馕、凉皮、卡瓦斯，我们当天的晚餐就在这里解决了。同时还购买了好几把英吉沙小刀，维吾尔小帽，手工艺品。后来才后悔没买披肩，很纯的羊毛，花色很多很漂亮，价格也不算贵。
8月13日一早，我们在人民公园门口的一家旅行社——“新疆旅游出租汽车（集团）公司”参加天山天池一日游，每人50元。 10点钟上车，11点多钟到达天山天池入口处。司机叫每人交60元给他去买门票（车号为：新A、30696），21个人交了1260元给他，到了检票处，一个男子上来，我们的车便开了进去，票买了没有，不知道，直到返回乌市，我们一再要求给票，司机才给了我们两张印有天池风景的明信片，其余的人大多忙着下车，不要票了。等我们看清手中的票，车子早已无影无踪，这里的奥秘不得而知，管理太令人失望了。天山天池是新疆国家级风景名胜区，距乌鲁木齐约100公里，从进山开始，景区分为四个自然带：低山带，针叶林带，高山亚高山带，冰川积雪带。上山的方式有三种：坐索道，乘景区车，徒步攀登，我们选择了最后一种。这一路的风景太好了，登山的小路掩映在茂密的塔松之中，天池溢出的天山雪水从山的高处向我们迎面奔腾下来，激流冲击山石，跳跃跌宕，卷起很高的浪花，发出震耳的声响，登到最高处，一幅平整的瀑布倒挂下来。徒步登山的人不是很多，所以多数人看到的天池风景，是个四五平方公里的水塘，我们则不同。上到顶上，一泓碧绿的池水进入眼帘，四周被群山围住，那是小天池，转一个弯，那就是天山天池了。真的并不很宽广，一眼就能望到对岸。站在海拔1900米的天池岸边，近处是森林和草场，远望南边，5000多米高的博格达峰，积雪皑皑，由湖泊、森林、草场、雪峰、冰川组合而成的风景才算天山天池的全部。
一个星期前，我们买了8月14日下午6点的返程火车票。今天还有时间，就顺便游市内的景点“红山公园”，公园依山建造，顶上有一座宝塔，据说有200多年的历史，一座远眺楼能鸟瞰乌市全景，林则徐先生的塑像巍然屹立在山顶，人们怀念他老人家在新疆的功绩，更难忘那段复杂的历史，可以说，禁毒尚未成功，同志仍需努力，包括新疆并不例外。 14日下午8点乘火车离开乌鲁木齐，17日上午6点到重庆，两个钟头后又上了开往贵阳的火车，下午6点到贵阳，完成了历时二十五天行程一万多公里的新疆之行。
Author: wuyangkaiyu
