Tibet has always been in my mind a Holy Land, to set foot on the land that she had been a long time my heart's desire. I aspire to where the snow-capped mountains, meadow, and the blue sky, more pairs of Tibetan culture is full of a sense of mystery. Still in the United States, they and friends yoyo to set up the Dream Adventure Club, our first destination is Tibet! In August 2001, my family moved back to Beijing, he and the yoyo with the planning of organizing groups into Tibet. The results do not happen to, yoyo day of departure from San Francisco is September 11th!
In September 2002, yoyo back again, and establishing a new friend along with Tibet, I would not open due to the timing did not take place. Lixin kneel down to the yoyo at the foot of Everest marry, she said "yes"! Back to the United States, the two men to marry well! I am moved by their romantic, for their happiness and blessings also from Tibet each year thereafter listed on the New Year's plans.
LG 11 this year, the time, I began early research. Friends Xiaotong this year, 51 had accompanying Tibet, she walked the line very pleased, recommended I take her trip. I quickly found a travel agent in Baidu's information, also went to the travel agent 11 product launches will be. "Everest advance, pay homage to the holy lake" 11-day line sounds perfect to us! Readily paid the tour fare per person per ￥ 7880, to begin serving a week in advance to alleviate altitude sickness drug - Suoluo Ma Po, the Tibetan side of buildings in the City of Victoria to buy, but unfortunately did not buy Rhodiola Oral Liquid. Went to the location to open accounts prove that in the space bridge to run the Shigatse region, border card, 2 inch photo, ￥ 2 yuan.
I and LG is also to start in July this year, five times a week to the gym, jogging + even more. Moment he began to run away a while a total of less than 3 kilometers, each additional 200 meters to the end of September, he can already run six kilometers in one breath! Despite the reports on to the plateau before the exercise should not be deliberate, but more than two months after this exercise, we have a lot to improve physical fitness, or sweat, did not in vain.
And the year-old son wanted to share this sacred journey, taking into account the hard way, and his current interest, we decided to arrange for his maternal grandfather, grandmother had 11. Ken happened to friends of the two couples to bring their children to Japan, his son, and Ken's son, Wells is a close friend. Ken invited us to join her son to go to Japan. We readily agreed with her son!
2004/09/28, Tuesday, overcast, Mid-Autumn Festival
7:25 am the son sent school buses, Taxi ride to the airport, the CA4112 by 9:15 AM to fly to Lhasa via Chengdu, air tickets ￥ ￥ 2480 + 50 airport tax. Because there are a few days holiday from 11 aircraft Exalted small, and our first class seat on the back. The guy sitting next to one person alone to go to Tibet, there is no plan, just a look impressive. In Chengdu, transfer delay for one hour. Replacement of the bus, I met an old America is called Mark, is the National People's Congress this year's Academic Writing of the foreign teachers. He first came to China from San Diego not long, the students are in military training, he get paid for a month without working, the use of vacation to Lhasa to walk around. Heard that we lived in Northern California, and it would chat up. He said he also no plans, just want to walk around in Lhasa to see. Especially Coincidentally, I and LG on the streets in Lhasa were also encountered the two of them! Notes from Mark and also exchanged numbers.
A Lhasa airport, holding a travel agency saw to accompany the brand to meet us. We are a group of 10 people, and soon Ju Qi, and only a delay in appearance, till the whole plane of people had sneaked away, to accompany and Beijing ties, I discovered that the wrong old chap who put the morning flights as of 9:00 pm flight - did not come into!
Parking lot, the way to each of us to accompany members presented a pure white hada - our trip to Tibet started.
To introduce themselves to accompany the first generation is called Cui Peng, and then proceed with the introduction of Tibet and Lhasa. From Gonggar airport to the city 100 kilometers, two-hour drive, Cui guide told us a full kept for two hours! With a presentation of the province of Tibet, and then describes the city of Lhasa. We are all touched by his dedication, worthy of one of Tibet's top ten tourist guides! (We learned later) along the way, Brahmaputra, have been around the roads around the blue sky and white clouds reflection in the surface of a calm river, the shore was short, there are some shrubs, has been Fanchu a touch of yellow, where the fall is more than in Beijing early.
Lhasa has finally come! Lhasa is actually a city, if not dressed in Tibetan clothing and wearing a red robe of a Tibetan lama, perhaps she could be any city. Of course, foreigners and backpackers here is the city's Another landscape. We were scheduled pedestrian street in Lhasa Milky Way Hotel (Yu Tuo Road, 5) on the third floor, no elevator! Climbed up on the third floor, panting, his legs become soft, head straight faint, slightly feel altitude reaction or two. Cui guide repeatedly reminded us that do not go out at night, to rest in silence and calm and ease of altitude sickness. In the door of the drugstore to buy a "plateau An" capsules and began taking.
Today is August 15 Lunar New Year Mid-Autumn Festival, Lhasa, the weather is the imaginary white clouds and blue sky + is a good day for the full moon. My younger brother just in Lhasa, he was out on September 11, from northern Sichuan-line all the way to Lhasa in Tibet will naturally be getting together with him. He took us to the Majiemi bar (Makye Ame). From our hotel out to the Jokhang Temple Square tricycle ￥ 3. Booth on the square have been dismissed. We look inside Jokhang Temple right away, though already dark, the road there are many people who long head knock, clockwise turn Temple. Majiami in Beijing Silk Street South, also has one, I wonder if with a chain. Possession of the restaurant's layout is based + westernized, shake and comfortable sofas candle gives a romantic warmth. We went straight on the third floor terrace, really there is a table available. Point of a pot of butter tea is said to be able to alleviate altitude sickness. LG afraid of all dairy products, he points a cup of carrot juice.
This year's Mid-Autumn moon is very special, more than a year are large, but 15 of the moon than the 16 yen. My brother also said that notice of the Hong Kong Observatory at 9:09 pm today, is the biggest moment of the moon. We have brought out from the Beijing moon cakes, and the neighbor's three Beijing Mix-sharing, products with a strong buttered tea, and enjoyed a bright moon in the clouds in the crosses. Today's Moon is indeed big and bright than usual, I wonder if the thin air of the reason why the plateau. I am reminded of my father first came to the United States, Texas when he said that the United States, Beijing's brighter than the moon really - because no pollution in Texas. I think that today's moon, as in the United States to see the moon, clear-cut above the crater, as well as winding sinking, sweet-scented osmanthus trees. A toast with us for this special Mid-Autumn Festival.
Bar menu home page, about the origin of the name of the Majiami: Majiami VI Dalai Lama's lover is said to VI, the Dalai Lama is very romantic during the day reading in the temple, to the city at night is often said, Shall We爱. Of his life created a lot of poems, many poems have been compiled into song spread far and wide, the most famous one is the Ma-Card Ami:
In that high jian Orient,
Whenever the moon rises it Jiao Yan,
Majiami intoxicating smile,
On the slowly rising up in me Xintian.
A beautiful night, accompanied by the legend of the beautiful There's nothing more beautiful that the Mid-Autumn Festival!
2004/9/29, Wednesday, sunny
Today's arrangement is to visit the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple.
Potala Palace Potala Palace overlooking the square from the panoramic, majestic and sacred, how familiar is finally presented in front of the screen, I really can not believe a little bit. No matter what corner of Lhasa, the Potala Palace will see the rise of hope; looked in one direction no matter where, this majestic palaces are magnificent mountains of losing momentum. The face of the Potala Palace, the Eiffel Tower might be applied to describe the argument Maupassant to describe: the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the only place to see, that is, the Potala Palace above! Let's ride to the White House from the left has always been on a nine-story, and from there the door began to visit the ticket ￥ 100. Cui said that the temple does not guide the toilet before the toilet door to everyone. That toilet is said to have the depth of 100 meters, there is fear of the high estimates have liver disease, children tremble!
The Potala Palace was built in the 7th century AD, is Zao Songtsan for marrying men of the Tang Princess Wen Cheng in Tibet was built. In Lhasa, 3,700 meters above sea level on the construction of the Hongshan 999 houses Miyauchi - the Potala Palace. Mountain castle was built entirely of stone and wood structure. Red Palace is the Dalai Lama Temple and various Buddhist temple. What impressed me most was the pagoda of the Dalai Lama V, located west hall, is one of the largest pagoda of the palace, shared 3721 kilograms of gold, precious stones 10008 1000, and a lot of silver cast! In addition to the Qianlong Emperor Yu Ci hall of "Chung-lian first land" plaque, but also the preservation of the Kangxi Emperor bestowed a pair of big beautiful Man Zhang, for the rare treasures inside Potala Palace. Upstairs hall from the west through the gallery to the songs on the guitar bamboo & Poor's (that is, amending the law Songtsan holes), this building is the seventh century Potala Palace, one of the most ancient buildings, which keep a Songtsan, Princess Wen Cheng and his ministers of the statue. Songtsan statue's head has a little gold Buddha. The maximum red palace palace Mingjiaosasong Namgyal (meaning wins Three Realms), which enshrines the Qing Emperor Qianlong portrait and "Long live the" tablets. In the half-way up, there is a platform, watching the Dalai Lama is said to be ancient singing and dancing places. Here overlooking the Lhasa urban area, south of the snow-capped mountains and the Lhasa River, as well as the panoramic view of the Potala Palace Square are. This escalators and on to the White House will be the largest east of the palace hall. Here is the successive Dalai Hing Hong seated Chikamasa ceremony and other major religious and political events. Two hours later, we have ups and downs of the slab along the slope road, back to the square foot of the mountains.
At noon we are on the left side of the Potala Palace, a restaurant. After dinner I go to the bathroom, the other members were on the car. Out dianmen, there are two eight or nine years old boy to the door, do not give you the money would not let me out! I am disgusted that there is no money. The results of two children arrived in the back door with one, and then a man grabbed my arm - the one-Ming robbed! I am furious, struggling to throw off the two of them, Duomen out, and tell them the more so the less money is given them. Master Han said he was the driver saw me in the car, he said that sometimes the Tibetan people are very wild.
To the west of the Potala Palace Square, the trade unions of friendship, shopping. LG bought the old Tibetan silver knives, ￥ 168, mail sent to his son to return home. I bought a thin Tibetan silver bracelets, ￥ 60. Later in the evening visiting the Barkhor, we also encountered a similar thing, though the price is cheaper.
Went to the mannose Cangyao Chang is a state-sponsored public companies. A doctor told us about the history of Tibetan medicine and effectiveness. Anatomy of Tibetan medicine is very accurate, due to a long history of burial rituals. Of particular interest is Tibetan medicine under the pregnant woman's belly to determine the baby's sex: If the stomach Zhaoyou side, is a boy; yanked if the stomach is a girl. I am a mother on the whole regiment, he really put it right. When I was pregnant with his son, his stomach on the right drum some, I thought it was the sake of the bladder. And baby so often, right downtown in the static and dynamic! He said he received so many tourists, there is no exception! God has.
Mannan about a total of 40 brand into a few of medicine and pharmacology, respectively, with different ingredients according to Tibetan tradition of Tibetan medicine formulations configuration made. The most famous when the number of RNSP, attending cardiovascular disease. Doctors said that Tibetan medicine ingredients are taken from the Tibetan plateau, due to the hard-won, so the high price. And some components have been difficult to find, so today's RNSP Perhaps only 65 or 59 taste the flavor.
The following is advice Vein and Tibetan, and Chinese medicine almost. Then a few men and women also diagnosed, what a man kidney ah, fatigue, weakness ah, women menstruation is not stressed like bad stomach, I am quite skeptical. Mannan in all Tibetan medicine into a unified number, No. 1 drug called lalong, attending the above symptoms, Nannvjieke taking the most expensive, one-month dose ￥ 420. LG wanted to buy the try, because he is very interested in Tibetan medicine, interested in future research efforts. Bargaining to the discount for each purchase transaction, bought a one-month dose. I and several other wives of the regiment bought some top-saffron, ￥ 20 / g, bargain to ￥ 18 / g deal, I bought 5 grams, ￥ 90, and only a small pinch.
The afternoon visit the Jokhang Temple. Jokhang Temple was built in the seventh century AD Songtsan period, the legend is as dedicated to the Princess of Nepal to bring the non-moving King Kong was built, and the Potala Palace, dating back as 1,300 years of history, the three major monasteries in Tibet first. The main hall to sit east west, overlying Jinding, brilliant spectacular Dianding the middle of two gold sheep guarding a symbol of reincarnation Kanawa. The main entrance in the repair, we learned from the right side door to enter, with the turning of the line to go through a long turn through the corridors into the temple. Jokhang Temple is the most famous statue that 12-year-old life-sized gold statue of Sakyamuni. For example, when he was alive to this Sakyamuni himself, spreading a very Shu St a Buddha, can be described as rare treasure. Knock long pilgrimage from all over the head of the faithful come to pay a formal visit to the Buddha statue. Then selected Panchen Lama's draw ceremony held in front of this statue. Tour finished, we came to the top floor of the temple, there can be overlooking the Potala Palace, as well as the southern mountains and the Lhasa River.
Come out from the Jokhang Temple, and the tour guides to discuss tomorrow's trip, it was informed that due to road detours, Yang Zhuo Yong measures and baiqoi monastery will not go in! Immediately and Cui-mediated tension up, we come to one is not easy to want to look at some spots as much as possible. LG immediate and travel agencies in Beijing to negotiate the result is still the same, not only those two spots will not go, because they must also take the bypass road 100 km of dirt road! Travel promised to retire ￥ 50 per person. The money is not quite important, but to recognize trouble. Dinner, I did not want to eat together. Travel arrangements for group meals is no appeal, I want to use in Lhasa last night stroll Bajiao Street, a taste of Tibetan foods, get the response the whole regiment, tour guides agreed to withdraw meals ￥ 15 yuan per person.
Back to the rest room a moment, then, and LG go to Barkhor shopping. However, turn one eye did not much fancy stuff, only bought two Tibetan silver rings, ￥ 5 1, and a ￥ 10 Tibetan silver bracelet, want to buy an incense burner but did not see a total like. Results This has become our only shopping time in Lhasa, has been purchased less regret, I really ought to buy some souvenirs Cai Dui. As subsequent to the place, less and less optional, prices are more expensive. Should really do to buy a horn cup or turquoise buttered tea cups as souvenirs.
Has wandered the stalls were closed, we called a tricycle to Ganglameiduo Restaurant (Ganglamedo), is my brother recommended, on the hotel he was living in Asia (Yak Hotel) opposite, outdoor decoration is unique, it The recommended use Tibetan, Chinese and English three kinds of words read, "Ganglameiduo bar" message. "Ganglameiduo" is the meaning of Tibetan snow lotus, so numbers printed on a large white duo of snow lotus, I like the name. The restaurant's decoration is also a half-hidden, half-Western, easy pleasant. Surrounded by walls adorned with a Tibetan theme painting, watercolor works, estimated to be the boss of the works of artists, both exhibition and sold. We are prior to 9:00, and there are a few tables optional. I picked the back room to the left corner of the table. Called the Tibetan-style deep-fried lamb chops, tsampa, Tibetan Zheng Bing, highland barley wine, and two cups of black tea in Nepal, ￥ 58.
Our table is next to a lot of foreigners, two tables put together is not enough to sit. Two cups of black tea in Nepal Xia Du, LG had to get up to the bathroom, sitting next to two tables of people had to get up your seat, he was allowed to leave. Proposed that the foreigner sitting next to our table and they fight together, can occupy a Woliang they may be relieved something. I readily agreed. Since sitting on a table, and to chat up. They had a large table are bikers, foreigners were German, an Asian Koreans, and the other Asians are Singaporeans. Everyone has their own line, only because it hit in Lhasa gathered together. I left the old German named Matias, quit her job, and his girlfriend Tina departure from Germany in preparation for a year, traveling around the world, destined for New Zealand. This time they departed from Beijing, via Hohhot, all the way ride on Lhasa, the next stop is the port into the Nepal via Zhangmu. Opposite to me old German named Martin, is a typical handsome, blond, handsome. He was second in Tibet, the last one who alone Riding Ali! He was a Chinese to understand it, a travel book is not, hit the books of the Mix data on the copy number of the next stop, and then buried alone ride - Zhengou crazy! Martin has 39 years of age, which looked like a 20-something, a little bit there is no outdoor people a look. He said his secret is a multi-rubbing sunscreen and a vegetarian. They are kind of typical of Mix, do not have any money, there is no dazzling job or career, regarded tourism as a way of life. Matias said he did not know whether it can return to Germany to find work, Martin was a Taxi driver in Germany. Later came a young man in Singapore, just out of the army, all the way from Singapore to ride on through the Yunnan Lhasa, and his destination was the United Kingdom! He was thin, small, cheeks had been thrown Gaoyuanhong can be a little tired there is no meaning.
Talked for an hour faster, and our food was up. Tsampa good unpalatable, there is no taste. Zheng Bing little touch of salty. Highland barley wine is brewed, and a bit like rice wine, but the taste Huancou He turbidity. I tsampa and Zheng Bing knife cut into small pieces and shared. Lamb chop is the last on, and not tender. We have every kind of taste a little bit, even if the goods had possession of a meal.
Good-bye to gang bikers, I walk back to the hotel, and LG. Bringing a moon again rose to the air, shops are already playing pretend, we have come to the front of the Potala Palace. Unfortunately, there is no night-light, do not see the night view of the Potala Palace was ablaze with lights, but in this Haoyuedangkong night, it is brilliant. Later, listening to tour guide said that when the lights are bright, but very little is estimated that only lighting the Tibetan festivals. Tibetan Lunar New Year's Day were, however, a few days later found that even the National Day and they are all.
The mission of the Lucy want to take a tripod with the camera the moon, but time is almost 11:00 PM, they had fallen asleep, and we back into the house to sleep. Sleep die, altitude sickness bar.
2004/09/30, Thursday, sunny
8:00 am start to Shigatse (Rigaze) open, 9:30 to Yangbajain, here is China's first thermal power plant.
Even earlier, began this morning's 180 km of dirt roads, bumpy incessantly, watching the cars丰田越野车growing and becoming a super-four to us, should not really regret it now mission of their own chartered enough. My younger brother and three packages of a User丰田越野车, to avoid the roads where the driver, or take them to the Yang Zhuo Yong measures and baiqoi monastery. He said the baiqoi monastery of Ten Thousand Buddhas Tate stick. Unfortunately, this time, we missed the second largest holy lakes in Tibet and is one of the three temples.
A result of taking a devious route from Lhasa to go north, in the middle there is no district towns, the fast-food lunch is lunch. We are at noon on the Brahmaputra side picnic, accompanied by yak, the river, and the snow-capped mountains, do not have some fun, I think that group than in the restaurant to eat meals happier. In the Riverside murder a lot of film. Lunchbox years for us to prepare eggs, sausages, roast chicken, bread, cakes, and cucumbers apple, kinda rich. My intestinal upset stomach noon, ate anything. Tashilhunpo whole afternoon to give a beggar woman carrying a baby.
Turn the two pass the afternoon. The first is the snow kura p., Cui said the elevation of 5454 meters lead. The second is the winter of Dracula Pass, elevation ~ 5100 meters. There has been little response.
Around four in the afternoon to Shigatse, first visited the Tashilhunpo. Here is a post-Tibetan, is the Panchen Lama's turf. Central support for the Panchen Lama, construction Xigaze significant expenditures, many of the province to aid Tibet have a beautiful building, but the overall feeling here, far worse than the popularity of Lhasa, and is quite different. Tickets are ￥ 40. When we went to, did not see a knock long head of the Tibetans. Cui said the guide will be the morning near the entrance.
Tashilhunpo also, and most of the monasteries in Tibet, like hillside. From afar, layer upon layer upon layer, patchwork, like a town, a magnificent sight. It was built in 1447 by the Dalai Lama I created the root Dudjom Pakistan, is one of the Gelug Sect Yellow Sect four temples. Terauchi A total of six landmark buildings:
1) The Dalai Lama I did not open;
2) The measures chin hall, dedicated to the world's largest gilded Buddha statues Jampa high 20.5 meters, shoulder width 11.5 meters, common brass 115,875 kilograms in 1914 by the ninth Panchen built;
3) The Panchen Lama as the V to the Panchen Lama by the repair of the buried;
4) 4 Lama Panchen Lama - is very simple, only took more than 270 kg of gold, precious stones are not many;
5) The Panchen Lama of Lama - which is since the founding of Buddhism in China to invest up to building the largest events, sharing 640 kilograms of gold and silver more than 270 kg, and ￥ 64,000,000;
6) side there is a huge sun temple Buddha walls, white walls and black eaves, there are 900 square meters, almost any corner can be seen from Shigatse. The annual May 14, 15, 16, were hanging out here in the past, present and future of the great Buddha Thangka, the sun light shines in the Buddha, the shiny, Tibetans from all over come, worship Buddha, and in Shigatse city, trade exchange will be organized.
Legend was the Dalai Lama IV, IV, V and the Dalai Lama's teacher, because he was older. V, emperor, the Dalai Lama has been canonized, the Dalai Lama IV, V, had his assistant, established a theocratic regime. The Panchen Lama IV position in the hearts of the Tibetans is very high, during the Cultural Revolution, the Panchen Lama V to IX of the pagoda was destroyed, only the Panchen Lama is Tibetan IV protected down. However, the Dalai Lama and the Potala Palace, where the pagoda of the V compared to the Panchen Lama IV is too humble a. The regiment's Yang Zi, with feeling: first, amnesty, or cost-effective, ah!
Panchen Lama's lifetime has a central application to the V to the construction of a buried Panchen Lama. Repair the tower began in 1985, completed in January 1989. Panchen Lama arrived in Beijing at that time, in order to buried at the pagoda of the grand opening ceremony and the Law will be light due to overwork, on January 28, 1989 passed away. Central government in 1990 began the construction of the tenth Panchen Lama world, built in 1994.
We live in Golden Dragon Hotel, Shanghai Road No. 10. This is our trip 11 days where the best living conditions for the hotel. Two days ago in Lhasa, have dared to bathe, today could finally washed in a shower. Notes from Shigatse signal is very clear. LG evening and night to go to Shanghai Internet cafes across the Internet, an hour ￥ 3. Here at Fengshahenda.
Tonight is the third day of Tibet, feel a headache, bad sleep at night. ~ 3,800 meters above sea level here.
2004/10/01, Friday, Qing
Starting as early as 8:00 from Shigatse to Tingri, along the 318 National Highway, full dirt road.
A city, there is a Tianzang Tai above Incense smoke. Cui guide said it was clear that although there are burial. Tian Zangshi burn incense and chanting before the burial, surrounded by the vulture smell the smoke will come like a conditioned reflex. The world's most famous three Tian Zangtai are: India, Sri Lanka white-Taiwan, Taiwan satin the north of Lhasa, Tibet Shannan Green Pu Taiwan. Here are five Tibetans are usually buried the bodies of law:
1) tower burial for monks;
2) celestial burial, for ordinary Tibetans;
3) The burial for the bad guys, so that they can not ascend to heaven forever;
4) Shuizang for widows and orphans, so the Tibetans do not eat fish;
5) The cremation, for general monks.
4 hour bus ride to Lazi, in Hong Four Seas Restaurant for lunch, we ate these the best one ton. Cui guide said it was his temporary point, is not scheduled, because a small town like this can not be scheduled. He saw this good, they took us to come, results also point after a standard meal. We all eat very satisfied with less in Lhasa say that simply forget our meals.
From the Lazi two and a half hour's drive to Tingri. Turn the Gyatso La Pass (Gyatsola Pass), altitude 5220 meters into the Qomolangma National Nature Reserve. Yamaguchi next to a small summit, and I went to take pictures LG climb. Since yesterday, after a pass of 5454 meters the snow Dracula, like today, do not think what the. Yamaguchi Department has a mother carrying a baby, there is a six or seven years old boy, apparently begging to passers-by. I gave the boy some food and some small change, other members gave him Jigen pencil, he happily smiling face full of brilliant.
More than four points went to the Everest Hotel in Tingri. Check in later, LG has repeatedly advised the front desk to the driver Lee master a rest room. This is because a hotel is full because of the Shigatse, Li masters and guides no bed to sleep, be arranged to sleep on board in the office. We are a group of so many lives can be both controlled by Li master hands!
I and LG out of the hotel, walk around in the surrounding. I thought, to the Tingri, went to the headquarters, and did not expect that from here there are four hour drive to base camp! Of course, poor road conditions. I thought 11 National Day on this day to see Mount Everest it. Turn right out from the hotel, a few steps to Tingri on the Tourist Service Center, hit the border card to do here, and buying tickets Choi Everest guide, where the border card to ￥ 50! But compared to my younger brother in Lhasa run ￥ 100, or a cost-effective. Forgot to ask Everest ticket price. Service Center raised a few big dogs, there is a like a Tibetan Mastiff. The driver reminded us that we must hide them farther.
Roadside everywhere is a dog's tail grass, LG do not forget they call me back I was collecting a lot of camera, smile!
Lulu when the bridge across the river, over a group of Tibetan children, seem to be getting home from school, talked and laughed all the way trot. They are up to me asking for something, I say do not take anything, they say giving money is required. I have coins from the bags out of his pocket Yida is a change in the Potala Palace where the. A sudden they were surrounded me, and how to say no to queue up in order to use, rob them of the more backward. The result is able to grab, and grab several times, can not be robbed, with an estimated fighting over nothing. In order to get rid of them, I had to go up, they are behind. Tingri 4200 meters above sea level, but also Zhengou me to receive the! When they look at me really is no longer given, and some kids come from behind to grab money out of the hands of the count - really can not underestimate them!
The sky clouded over, the east there is a black cloud seemed to rain, lightning direction of Everest, I really worry about tomorrow's weather is not good, can not see Everest. Back into the house through the corridor, suddenly found the hills a golden window, the background is a cloudless blue sky - sunshine Jinshan! Quickly, and LG jumping through the window out of the next snap this valuable 2,3 minutes. I ran back to the corridor to inform the other members out of photographs. We have been deeply attracted to this beauty, it is regrettable that the sunshine of the mountain is not snow-capped mountains, or even more beautiful.
After dinner, LG said the headaches, eating a plateau security, but also served an Advil, lay down in bed early. My brother called to say just camp down, immediately went to Tingri. I said I was in the room waiting for him. My brother said that morning at the observation deck to see Mount Everest and the next two peaks above 8,000 meters, but a meal at the Rongbuk delayed for an hour and missed the best shot at the headquarters of the time. He said that in general one-off at noon, clouds will be up, cover Everest, it is necessary to grasp a good time tomorrow. They camp from noon to wait until 4:30 p.m., in the middle of Mount Everest is only slightly exposed face and the whole rest of the time in the clouds.
This let him stay there in that, he insisted to go back and teammates together. Only later did I know that he walked alone, when the bridge was also run into money of Tibetans. Fortunately his headlights is very powerful, he Dakai Deng direct that person's eyes, Huang halo him, while Paoyuan of. Think of it really a little scared.
Have to thank him for his sent a tripod, taking pictures for our Everest, Liledagong.
The night seemed to ignore Shuisi, 4200 meters above sea level, something higher.
2004/10/02, Saturday, cloudy morning and 5:00 to get up, 5:30 breakfast, 6:00 start trek to Mount Everest! The first had a depot, check border card. 7:00 Shiyou had a depot, inspection has been completed, the depot's claim that there is both a child, want to take us for a car. The door opens, up five children and teenagers. Tingri County at the time they are junior high school, on weekends to walk to the depot, and so ride home. We are into the mountains today, the first call, they obviously have the depot waiting for the night! They do not understand Mandarin, may be understood not say. To see if they look really miserable cold and hungry, we have to give them points out to eat. There is also a child motion sickness, but fortunately I carried a halo by Ning, gave him half a slice of children. Asked them what off, they can not tell. Because we did not walk the road ahead for fear of giving them pull off, and kinda worried. Later, a thought, they were certainly familiar with here will not be sat.
Bangoura pass through the shelter around 8:00 (5220 meters) viewing platform, not yet dawn, sky clouds, that is, light is also overlooking an estimated less than Mount Everest. Sorry!
8:30 or so, we made a cover gora, has completed a period of resistance silky like a winding mountain road down to the foot of the mountain, the surrounding villages began to appear. Two children indicate that they arrived,哥俩Mingjiaozhaxi cases in the village where the train. Also open for a while, the remaining three children were out of the car. I think they are not easy at all, reading a junior high school to go that far way. Cui guide said that most of the Tibetan children are not reading, ask them to read free of charge do not read, because they feel useless, grow up cattle sheep, like these little children. I really wish they can stay in school, one day come to look beyond the mountains of Tibet.
10:00 to reach Rongbuk, cloudless, Alleluia! Everest Tingtingyuli like a young girl, clearly, openly and stand in front of us! ! ! Could not believe my eyes! It's almost too good to be true! Have been worried about the way see the true face of Everest, I thought to myself even if it would be able to see across the mist is also doubtful about contours. This time All the hard times are paid off! All the pain of bumps on the road are written off in his heart! I praise God's uncanny workmanship in mind, worthy of one of God's Greatest Masterpiece!
LG teams a good tripod to get him transferred to the new Canon EOS300D maximum pixel carbazole carbazole cha cha to shoot up.
Cui said guide carriage to wait for a while, we can go look at the Rongbuk Monastery. Rongbuk to listen to my younger brother said, most of them closed up, to watch part of the very few, we only had one film together outside shots, then turned to Everest transferred. Tour guide said that he had brought the group has never been clearly seen Mount Everest, tour guides and drivers are competing demands on photographic pictures that they have to record this memorable moment. We are all also were photographed together. Yang Zi members is the star of the entertainment industry, has turned out a good few MTV. He asked for a personalized expression of the pose, should not be lined up in rows! Really admire his idea! We are 10 people each gracefully pose, fully Zhang Xian personality, I called LG lifted me! LG frustration on the plateau itself is not original, panting my hold up, yet my brain on the outside of the frame! J
Pull us to base camp of the carriage had not come off the Yangtze listen to tour guide said he could ride in the past, but have to pay ￥ 90. It also used hesitate? Yangtze make a prompt decision should be under the guide, turning us all call on the carriage return. There are 8 kilometers to the base camp winding dirt road, drove at least have to walk a half hours, if again in Rongbuk wait any longer, we also have younger brother and I, like, missed the best shot at the base camp of time. We all thought that the reason why is because the carriage to not allow the car! It is really thanks to Yang Zi.
To the headquarters of 11:30 am, Cui guide so that we stayed 12:20 pm. Longing for home base, but a few broken temporary tents composition, and the hearts of the imagination that all of the world the sanctity of climbers to climb Everest from the starting point somewhat. Listen to my younger brother said, to go any further, we must each received $ 200 dollars in mountaineering pay. Also saw a broken tent and a sign that read branch: Welcome to Hotel De California, '0 'Mile, Alti = 5220M. In the case of California where fellow, naturally wanted to take a photo to leave a shadow.
A stream flow from the foot of the mountain, and we all went to the river to the camera. Mile carbazole twitter whispering sound to pose according to the various times of the month. Also at the headquarters of stone before and was filled streamer pictures of a small hill, then about 12:15 pm or so, clouds have been slowly up the basic cover on the hilltop! It seems that we arrived in time, it would be a little late, perhaps only a shame!
Ride back to Rongbuk, all of us including the driver Li Cui lead once again the master and his photo. At this time 12:30 pm, the sky clouds have been a lot of half-way up Mount Everest has been cloud covered, only showing a jian had! Apart from excitement, more lucky that our luck is indeed fleeting呀! This is also how much is a pity, we have in the past two and a half hours, the basic picture has been in the mood, the film scene, getting people to shoot mountain, getting promoted, but Jing Xiaxin gradually appreciate, savor the time is almost no. Rongbuk Monastery next to the slopes, just built a hotel, pink colored walls, the windows were all the rooms are on the Everest. If we can live there one day, 24 hours a day to see Mount Everest of different features, it should be more contented thing.
Today, we have four hour drive back to Tingri, and two and a half hour drive to Lazi - with the mission demonstrated the shortcomings of another - takes a car hurry to get somewhere. After the return cover kura p. viewing platform, the sky clouds, we do not overlooking the Mount Everest, let alone the other two peaks of more than 8,000 meters. Sorry!
To 5:00 pm to Tingri before they can eat lunch, I think everyone was hungry. Departure from Beijing, I bought a box of food: spiced corned egg, butter beef vacuum bag, biscuits, pickles, dried meat floss, instant noodle. . . Heard that Everest road is not good, I fear a bad car on the road middle of the night, hungry, frozen, which goes can not eat children. This time really to spend, and they just eat out for everyone to fill their stomachs. Especially drivers Lee Master, he was most critical.他要血糖一低，一走神，我们可都玩完了！他很喜欢我带的食品，吃了四个卤蛋，一包酱牛肉，还有一包饼干！ LG又给了他一瓶水。把李师傅伺候好了，是全团人给我俩的任务。
8:30pm到拉孜。崔导从未在拉孜住过，当时天色已晚，找了半天才找到旅行社预定的拉孜宾馆。崔导很负责任，他先进去看房间，出来说有味道，没法住。后来问到拉孜县城最好的宾馆是四川招待所，他又先去看房间，说可以住，订好房，再带我们去吃晚饭。
每次李师傅放下我们，都先检查车况，要么修车，要么加油打扫卫生，每次上车时，车里都打扫得干干净净。今天他查车时，发现有一个钢板被震断了！他饭也没吃，径直去修车，一直到我们吃完还没回来。一天下来这么辛苦，他的晚饭还要打包回房间吃，特让我们感动。他说他和崔导昨晚在定日又没休息好。他们住六人间，有一个藏族导游，呼噜打得震天响，就像一辆轰隆隆的拖拉机！今天又从早上五点开始，干到晚上十一点！
今天也是我们的一个记录: 早五点吃早饭，下午五点吃午饭！可是看到了珠峰，谁还会在意呢？
在拉孜这一夜，是到目前为止我们住得最差条件的一晚。房间紧挨马路，楼下是KTV，没有毛巾肥皂，一开始还以为没热水。但这一晚是全团所有人，包括司机导游，睡得最香的一晚！看到了珠峰，每个人都心里踏实了。崔导和李师傅终于有了一次双人间。每个人都美美地在拉孜睡了一觉。
2004/10/03，星期天，没注意天气。
今天全是回头路，从拉孜一直回到拉萨！五百多公里的土路，预计要开十四小时！
我和LG贪看景色，从飞机场一出来就坐在了右边最前面司机旁的两个单座儿。这儿的视野开阔，但最危险。我总对LG说，如果真有个急刹车，他第一个飞出去，我第二个飞出去！
今天因全是回头路，早上一上车，LG就坐在杨子身边。现在我们一团五对儿十个人都已混熟。杨子是我们团里的明星，特别幽默。他曾是北京红极一时的婚庆主持，也是拍过数张MTV光盘的业余歌手。他思路敏捷，出口成章，极具天分，不服不成。一路上他总能逗得大家哈哈大笑。也幸亏有他，我们团的气氛特别活跃和融洽，是我们跟过所有的团里最开心的一次。 LG准备好好和杨子聊天。他俩从历届国家领导人，到娱乐明星，到体育明星；从北京大事，到国家大事，到国际大事；如数家珍，从早八点一直侃到下午五点！直侃得导游瞪大了眼，无比崇拜地望着杨子！估计崔导从未一天里这么长过见识。我一开始坐在LG旁的加座儿上听，结果那个座位被我这不到45kg的人愣给压折了！有时路颠得人整个从位子上飞起来！ Lucy他们小两口一直坐最后一排，可真够受罪的。和LG杨子他们坐不成了，我又回到前面的位子。本想小眯一觉儿，无奈昨晚睡得太好，竟然不困！今天和杨子学到一新词儿――侃资。绝了！
中午在日喀则吃午饭，外面正在举行过节的贸易会，路边有很多小摊。我又抓紧机会，买了三条挂饰，￥15/条，两根是蜜蜡的，一根是玛瑙石，我都很喜欢。
下午我肚子一直不舒服，总有憋尿的感觉。我几乎不到一个小时就让师傅停一次车，可每此都没有什么尿，但还觉得憋。晚上八点左右，从最后一个山上下来，都可以看到羊八井的灯光了，但司机说还有很远一段。我再次要求停车。没想到崔导神情紧张地警告大家，谁也不要睡觉，要保持警醒，他从未走过这一段夜路，怕碰上打劫的匪徒！车里的气氛可以用立即凝固来形容。团里的薛总是我们团年纪最大的，他年轻时曾当过兵。他告诉大家别怕，万一有劫匪，我们就全体打一个，往死里打，只有这样其他的匪徒才会害怕，才可能跑掉！
崔导说2001年时，有一帮藏民五六十人，专门天黑以后抢劫旅游车。他们通常在路上放一排大石头，拦下车后，冲上车一个一个抢。有一次他们抢了一个老外团，报案后，才引起公安局重视。公安局了解情况后，派两个特种连化妆成旅游者，并放出消息说最近会有一个超豪华团进藏。当这帮匪徒作案时，被一网打尽。但我们觉得崔导身上的余悸至今未散。他还告诉我们明晚住那曲时，一定要放把刀在枕头底下防身。
怪不得他总是带不够团费，本来今晚我们可以住当雄的。这样明天就可以节省三个钟头从拉萨到当雄的路程去纳木措。但崔导计划回到拉萨取下一段的团费。打电话安排此事时，旅行社通知他青海旅行社接我们的人已经到拉萨了。用杨子的话说，今晚就得交接战俘，开追悼会了！ J 崔导和李师傅都流露出sad的表情，他们已和我们成为朋友，本想再送我们一程到那曲的。
11:30pm我们到了拉萨的红灯区太阳岛吃晚饭。停电。我们坐在玉包子二楼昏暗的烛光里，情绪低落。已经在黑暗中颠簸了半夜，正想大家一起热热闹闹大吃一顿，甚至喝点儿，谁也没有情绪enjoy这烛光浪漫了。杨子代表大家给崔导写了很不错的评语。
又回到天河宾馆，俩导游交接。青海的小导游姓甘，看上去没什么经验，为明天几点出发的事和我们闹得不太愉快。
从拉萨到大本营来回一共四整天，行程近1500公里，大部分土路，路上经历了风、雨、雪、和冰雹，往返我们一共坐了42小时的车！可每个人都很开心，斗志昂扬地要求明天早点儿起出发去圣湖。今晚睡得很香。
2004/10/4，星期一，多云早上6:30起床，7:30出发去纳木措，朝拜圣湖。甘导说昨天他们从北边过来，下大雪，到纳木措山口时，盘山路上全是冰，不能下去。几辆冒险下去的车翻到了山沟里。结果那个从青海过来的团没去成湖边！
过了羊八井，就看见念青唐古拉山脉，它的最高峰是念青冈第斯山，海拔7110米。念青唐古拉山脉把西藏分为藏南藏北。
9:15am到青藏公路通车五十周年纪念碑拍照留念。
10:30am下主路，进入开往纳木措的土路，共60公里。我弟打来电话，说他已到湖边，天气不好，湖水的颜色发灰。我们在山口远望湖面时，天上乌云密布，也不乐观，不过至少比昨天强。天上开始下小雪。
纳木措(Namtso)是西藏第一大圣湖，也是我国第二大咸水湖，海拔4718米，面积为1940平方公里。传说纳木措是一位少女的化身，和念青唐古拉是一对恋人。
12:20到达湖边，风很大，有七、八级，湖水像海浪一样卷起很高拍向湖岸。我和LG都穿上了羽绒服。天上只有一小片蓝天，其余全是乌云。导游只给我们半个小时的时间，理由是山上在下雪，气候十分恶劣，怕走晚了出不了山了。我们又是嘁哩咔喳照了一通，等我们快走时，天却放晴了。湖水的颜色从蓝灰变成亮蓝，水深不同，颜色深浅也不一样，有的地方是蓝绿的，十分漂亮。我弟打来电话，说他在山头上，湖水的颜色正随阳光变化万千，特别漂亮。真想爬上去看看，可惜我们要上车了。
回去的山路上下起了雨。我们在当雄吃午餐时，已下午三点，结果饭菜等了很久，因为今天是旅游高峰，就见几个导游站在厨房门外抢菜！我们的甘导还算手快，我们吃完往那曲开。
刚上青藏公路没多久，就看见一辆桑塔纳出租歪在路中央，看样子是撞在了一辆大卡车上。对面的车辆已堵了很长，我们这边就前面一辆长途班车。班车司机从主路旁的土坡下去，绕过肇事车辆，又拐回主路上。我们的司机也照搬。结果刚绕过出世地段，被一辆逆行的大卡车挡住去路。眼看再等一会儿，我们的路面就会被逆行车辆占满，彻底堵死，结果那辆逆行大卡在别人劝说下，终于决定冲下土坡，绕过我们继续逆行！我们也因此而成为能够穿过这片chaos的幸运车辆之一！否则还不知路上得等多久故障才能被清除，车流何时才能畅通。杨子不失时机地表扬甘导抢菜有功，逗得大家哈哈大笑。
当雄城外有八个白塔，九十年代建的，却已倒掉一个――不仅不是古迹，还是个豆腐渣工程！
出了当雄，公路两边是辽阔的草原――藏北当雄草原。这里因地势低，纬度低，比再往北面的那曲草原肥沃。游牧藏民通常在夏季时，赶牛羊上到高山上吃草，现在天气冷了，山上下雪了，他们再来草原安营扎寨，靠肥沃的草甸度过寒冷的冬天。草原上处处是藏民的帐篷，有的地方连续十几公里，十分壮观。
青藏公路的沿线，有很多兵站。军车出来拉练时，每次三个连，每连30辆军车。所以常常看到绵延十几公里长的军车队伍，也算是青藏公路的一景了。
我们住在那曲饭店，据说当地治安不好，甘导不许大家晚上出门。晚饭就在出酒店左拐的路边。我们也都仔细地检查了房间的窗户才踏下心睡觉。
2004/10/05，星期二，多云
早上还在出门左拐的小店吃早饭，他们的素包子很好吃。
8:25出发。过了那曲，就是藏北羌塘草原。这里因海拔高，已到处是雪，草甸只是稀薄得薄薄一层了。路边是黑河。经过申格里贡山脉，平均海拔4900米，最高峰7180米。
路上因天气不好，基本每半小时就看见一起车祸。两小时后我们就到了今天的午餐点――安东。安东的面片儿很有名，我们每人一碗。里面放了很多菜，有点像熬菜，味道还可以。餐馆里挂了一幅巨大的拉萨航拍照，LG毫不犹豫地给拍了下来。
吃完饭12:00出发，50公里后到达第一个唐古拉山口，海拔～5200米。唐古拉山脉是长江、怒江、和另一个江(忘记名字了)的三江分水岭。进入唐古拉山脉后，路边有很多像镜子一样的小湖泊，在雪地里闪闪发亮，倒映着蓝天白云，十分漂亮。 40公里后，1:30pm到达第二个唐古拉山口，海拔5231米，是西藏和青海的省界。这一段公路很颠，坑坑哇哇的。甘导说青藏公路的维修全部由西藏负责。又看到一起事故，我们的车慢慢绕过时，和对面打车突出来的车胎刮了一下，有惊无险！
过了省界50公里，有一个唐古拉兵站。我们停下来“唱歌”。正赶上军车在车场中整装待发。战士们先排好队，喊口号。他们的嗓音特别宏亮，尤其在这说话都得放慢速度的高原，格外响亮。然后九十辆军车浩浩荡荡地往西藏方向开去。
3:30pm到通天河，就是西游记里沙僧的老家。通天河汇集唐古拉山脉的融雪，绿绿的河水，最终汇入沱沱河，成为长江的一部分。我们下来照相，我尝了尝河水，淡淡的，没什么味道。
路过雁石坪，有一个青藏公路通车后被废弃的天葬台，矮矮的，一点儿也不高的小山破。因为离公路近，秃鹫不敢过来，就被废弃了。
4:30pm就到了沱沱河――长江的源头，这里有江泽民题词碑，还有青藏铁路的长江第一桥。长江源区由正源沱沱河，南源当曲，北源楚玛尔河组成。沱沱河发源于唐古拉山主峰格拉丹东雪山的冰川。遗憾的是我们从公路上看不到格拉丹东雪山。
吃完饭，我们在宾馆后的沱沱河边看日落。 7:40pm，太阳从青藏铁路第一桥的桥洞里落了下去，晚霞满天。河边由两个八、九岁的小女孩，都穿着红色的衣服，那个大一点的长得十分漂亮，LG给她俩拍了很多照片。为了感谢她们，我送给她俩每人一个鱼罐头，要她们把地址留下，我会寄回照片。她俩欣然接受。拿来姓名地址时，才知道她们是藏族。
今天一共看到九起车祸！
今晚我们住在沱沱河宾馆，是全镇最好的宾馆，甘导说是满天星级宾馆―― 没有自来水，没有电，窗外满天星斗。这是我们住的最艰苦、最冷、海拔最高(4500米)的一晚。房间里有一面火墙，外面楼道里生火，热气通过火墙加热房间。天黑透后，才有柴油机发一会儿电。
我们在房里点燃蜡烛，晃动的烛光，映着葡萄酒般红色的灯心绒的窗帘，别有一番浪漫。
天黑后，我和LG出来看星星。从来没有看到过这么多星星！整个苍穹，从地平线开始，布满了星星；银河像一条雪白的哈达，蜿蜒飘过头顶；一颗人造卫星，不紧不慢地穿过银河；两颗流星，还没来及许愿，瞬间滑过夜空；牛郎挑着担子，隔着银河望织女；大熊星座的大勺儿低低的，像要舀起沱沱河的水！ So beautiful!以前在美国的国家公园里看到过没有污染的星空，但是这里海拔4500米，空气稀薄，看到的星星多很多。但这里的星星没有美国亮，不是那么璀璨，一闪一闪的，好像成千上万颗钻石发光，也许是因为空气稀薄的缘故吧，星星都不闪了。我把Lucy的LG也叫了出来，他说他的朋友曾特别叮嘱他要在高原看看星星。我们试图把这美丽的夜空拍下来，但试了半天也不成，只拍到几颗特别亮的星星。
今夜是最冷的一晚，穿上绒衣、长裤，钻进睡袋，再压上两床厚棉被，差点儿喘不上气儿！
2004/10/06，星期三，晴，万里无云
7:50am沱沱河看日出，河面上一层薄冰。因为空气干燥，又没有污染，太阳一出来就光芒万丈，十分刺眼，没有拍到完美的日出，十个手指头快被冻成了冰棍儿。
今天我们要穿过可可西里自然保护区，希望能看到一些野生动物，特别是受保护的藏羚羊和藏野驴。今天天公又很做美，是个万里无云的好天。
8:45am出发，先看到风火山。传说孙悟空借到假芭蕉扇后一扇，火焰山成了一片火海。他的虎皮裙也被点燃。他随意地一丢，就被扔在了这儿。这座山红红的，山上的一棱一棱的竖纹，的确很像火焰山，不过小一号。
有人看到路右侧有动物，我们要求司机停车观看。离我们一百多米的地方出现了一群藏野驴，棕色的背，白肚皮，有近二十头。全团只有Lucy的数码相机有30倍变焦，可以拉到最大。 LG把Lucy的相机支在我弟的三角架上，请他为全团拍下了这群国家一级保护动物悠闲的样子。
9:30am左右，我们看到两拨藏羚羊。可惜它们十分警觉，有时车子刚停下，它们就跑开了。藏羚羊也是国家一级保护动物，猎杀者死罪。八十年代末期以来，由于藏羚绒披肩的价钱涨至$5000美金一条，藏羚羊遭到盗猎分子大肆捕杀。藏羚羊身体轻巧，跑起来很轻盈，白屁股一跳一跳的，样子更像小鹿，个头比我想象的小，很可爱。我们总共看到有60多只，拍了很多照片。
十点钟过风火山口，海拔5010米，是我们今天的最高。过了风火山口，就进入可可西里自然保护区，共23万平方公里，青海占7.5万平方公里。 11:40am左右，远处左手边出现了一排绵延的雪峰――玉虚峰，厚厚的积雪扣在山顶上像要流下来的icecream topping！看上去好yummy！相传玉虚峰和玉珠峰是玉皇大帝的两个妹妹的化身，终年积雪，冰川众多。即使在盛夏六月，依然银装素裹，分外妖娆，形成闻名遐迩的“昆仑六月雪”奇妙景观。
过五道梁时加油、唱歌。五道梁也有一个兵站，和唐古拉兵站相对应。俗话说，到了五道梁，不见爹和娘。可见这里对人体的挑战。我们也一直以为过唐古拉山口和五道梁身体会很难受，可谁也没觉得。可见我们这些天已身经百战，几乎每天都经过5000米以上的山口，到这儿已经没感觉了。
看到一对儿鹰，灰底儿，翅膀有黑条儿花纹。我们全团都是野生动物迷，看到个动物就高兴得不得了，连司机导游都很impressive。他们说我们的运气也真好，看到那么多动物，他们送去拉萨的团，全团恨不得都带的专业的长焦镜头，愣是一只动物没看到！我们在去珠峰的路上还看到一只狐狸，可惜没拍到。青藏的乌鸦都大得出奇，常常让我们误以为是老鹰！
经过长江北源――楚玛尔河。
青藏铁路分段铺设，一路上我们看到一个个中铁X局X局的牌子。好像大部分都已修好，特别是青海这段，有的地方已铺好铁轨通运输车，运输架在桥墩上的一节节桥梁。青藏铁路最长的桥就在可可西里自然保护区，桥长30多公里，高架的设计就为让野生动物能够自由穿行。在不能铺设高架的地段，铁路周围修了很多maze，像迷宫一样，一排排的水泥墙，就为discourage动物们穿行铁轨――真是体贴！
12:30pm我们到达索南达杰野生动物保护站和藏羚羊救护中心，参观了生态和藏羚羊保护图片展，在藏羚羊申奥吉祥物的倡议书签字，全团的人都为保护站捐了款，为藏羚羊的保护做出一点微薄的贡献。索南达杰是一位为保护藏羚羊，反盗猎而牺牲的藏族人，为了纪念他，这个保护站用他的名字命名。青海省可可西里国家级自然保护区管理局的才嘎局长正好在保护站，我们全团和他和了影，他是藏族人，对我们非常热情。
过了没多久就是不冻泉保护站，它不对外。看见了可爱的藏羚羊，真想明年暑假带儿子来当志愿者，到救护中心，护理受伤的或baby藏羚羊，要儿子从小就爱护动物。
这一段青藏公路的冻土层很厚，路上出现了像旗杆一样的一排金属棒，有三十多根。甘导说这是恒温棒，为防止路面结冰，一根成本一万，撞坏一根罚十万！
从索南达杰保护站到昆仑山口这40分钟的路，窗外看到了成群结队的藏羚羊和藏野驴，悠闲地喝水、吃草，享受着雪山和蓝天。之前我还一直在数今天一共看到多少野生动物，已多得数不过来了。本来对看到它们我没报太大希望，真是感觉太幸运了，同时也说明保护站的努力没有白费！特别不能理解为什么去拉萨的团没看到任何动物。
1:45pm到达昆仑山口。 2000年8月这里曾发生8.1级地震，旧石碑被震塌。那块石碑高4.767米，正好是昆仑山口海拔4767米的千分之一。一块新的石碑已重新立好。这里还有索南达杰的纪念碑，北大山鹰社五位登山遇难者的纪念碑，以及可可西里国家级自然保护区的纪念碑，因为这里是保护区的北界。
昆仑山位于亚洲正中，平均海拔5500－6000米，被称为龙脉之祖，亚洲脊柱。它是中国道教昆仑派的发祥地的昆仑主道场，传说是姜太公修炼五行大道四十载之地。又称中国第一大神山，有人间仙境的美称。西王母瑶池，传说是西王母举行蟠桃盛会之所。昆仑神泉传说是西王母酿制琼浆玉液的泉水。但昆仑山是沙石山，山上寸草不生，昆仑山上一颗草是对昆仑山植被稀少的形容。
2:00pm，我们停在西大滩吃午饭，正在玉珠峰脚下。玉珠峰是攀登珠峰的训练营，2000年时，北大山鹰社的五位学子就是在这里遇雪崩而罹难。玉珠峰整个山体都被白雪覆盖，银装素裹，十分漂亮，加上蓝天白云的映衬，不比珠峰逊色。午餐在聚仙川味饭庄，河南焦作的老板娘。我们的餐桌正对雪山，虽然饭菜味道一般，但景色绝佳，可以和去日喀则那天在雅鲁藏布江边的午餐景色一起并列为最佳午餐景点。
出了西大滩，右手边有一片高高的土山，突兀嶙峋的山脊上像泼墨一样，染满了时浓时淡的黑色和墨绿色，像极一幅水墨山水画，再次感叹上帝的奇妙造化！
路边有一片片红颜色的草，甘导说叫骆驼草，羊不吃，只有骆驼吃。
又过了30公里，到达无极龙凤宫――据说姜子牙曾修炼的道观。门口有三座石雕，哼哈二将两旁，后面姜子牙正中。道观是个非常新的小房子，甘导说里面供奉着西王母，我们没有进去。道观背面的山，直上直下，仿佛一面照壁，山里面有玉矿，出产昆仑玉，导游说，在地上就能捡到炸山崩出的玉石。道观正对青藏铁路第一高桥――三岔河大桥。旁边有一个土墙砌的厕所，门上书一“凤”字，很有意思。往山里有一条土路，甘导说那是去玉虚峰西王母瑶池的山口，往里70公里，只有越野车可进。台湾的道教信徒很崇拜这里，带着法师到这，边放鞭炮，边行大法。甘导还说，西王母瑶池有1100平方公里，四周都是终年积雪的山峰，比纳木措还漂亮。
三岔河大桥全长691米，最高的柱子54米。
30公里后，到昆仑神泉，就在公路边儿，这儿叫纳赤台，海拔3700米，传说着当年文成公主进藏时在此歇息。甘导说这泉水喷出地层前，在地下蕴藏潜流达20余年，从周围环境中溶解锶，钙、钾、碳酸氢根等对人体健康有益的化学元素。我们把水瓶里的水全部倒掉，罐满了清冽甘甜的泉水。
路旁的河应是昆仑河，已基本干涸，但河道很宽，峡谷绝壁相对，Lucy的LG说这是雅丹地貌，很像一个mini version的Grand Canyon(大峡谷)。这条河汇入雪水河，再汇入格尔木河。绿色的雪水河，也像一个mini Grand Canyon.
距格尔木50公里左右，几公里内有20几家加油站，大多是私人的。甘导说是大家离近点，相互照应，怕从格尔木来打劫的。
看到一座土山，样子像卧着的雄狮回头。都想快到格尔木，没有停车拍照。
绿色的格尔木河，水流很大。甘导说，格尔木河的水资源可建八座梯级电站！现已建好三个。
6:15pm到格尔木。格尔木(Golmud)本是蒙古语，意思是河汊多的地方，海拔2780米，是世界上辖区最大的城市，有七个台湾省大，但市区只有30平方公里，支柱产业是钾肥和炼油厂，原油来自敦煌。现已成为西部旅游枢纽、集散地，以及青海西部旅游发展中心，共有人口20万，其中10万为外来人口，治安不太好。
我们先去了火车站旁的格尔木大厦，三星。房、餐都安排好了，却发现不能洗澡。全团十人齐心要求换酒店，LG要求决不能低于这家。最后甘导安排我们在一家新的准三星――翔宇宾馆，江源路24号。
Hooray!!! 终于又返回了文明社会！自从离开拉萨、日喀则，从未好好洗过澡，沿路白天经过的地方，都没有自来水。我洗了起码半个钟头！
下楼吃晚餐，全团的人都已到齐，等着我们举杯！真是个值得庆祝的好日子，我们一团一起颠簸了近三千公里，度过了九个日日夜夜，分享了那么多让我们终生难忘的美景！杨子点的白酒的牌子叫格尔木情，颇能代表大家当时的心情。不能喝酒的LG居然和四位gentlemen干了两瓶白酒！平均一人四两！我们的餐标是￥200，LG又添了三个菜，共￥414。
吃完饭我本来想打车出去转转，甘导说格尔木的街灯很有特色，一街一景。杨子挤得我说：“你从北京过来，还在这儿看灯，别坷碜啦！”逗得大家哈哈大笑，又学一词儿――坷碜！
想出去已不可能，LG已喝高，回房躺在床上看电视，我写游记。
2004/10/07，星期四，晴甘导今天要带我们去察尔汗盐湖，她说去早了，光线不好，盐湖不漂亮。所以十一点才会来接我们。我们吃过早饭，决定打车出去转转。和Lucy夫妇、Christine夫妇一起打车到昆仑公园广场，已九点半，街上没什么人，店铺大都还没开门。格尔木的大街都十分宽敞，但车少人少，没什么人气。城市的硬件设施不错，难怪是青海省第一座最佳旅游城市。看到五只山羊在昆仑广场悠闲地散步，我们觉得很滑稽，但路人都没有反应，估计觉得我们很滑稽。
因为晚上要在火车上过，去超市采购了些吃的。
11:00am，甘导接我们去察尔汗盐湖。察尔汗盐湖位于柴达木盆地中南部，海拔2670米，南距格尔木约60公里，南北宽40多公里，东西长140多公里，总面积为5800多平方公里。它是柴达木四大盐湖中面积最大、储量最丰的一个，也是我国最大的天然盐湖，在世界排名第二。远远看去，电线杆林立，这里说是个景观，不如说更像工厂。
我们在路边一个有盐花的小盐池停下。盐池是用来晾晒采盐船采出的浓盐水，结晶出的盐粒被工人推向池边，然后运往盐山――堆积如山的盐堆。如果晾晒过程中，在结晶上不断地浇卤水，就会形成形状各异的盐花，有的像假山，有的像小动物，有的像宫殿。 . .特别是和倒影称在一起，十分漂亮。
盐湖的岸边，一层光滑平坦的盐盖，湖水拍打着岸边，远看就像细细的白沙海滩，走进去才发现盐盖非常硬，踩都踩不动！甘导说可以泡泡脚，我们都怕冷，没敢下水。在水边打起了水漂，我最多打了四个！
又去了万丈盐桥，实际上是一条修筑在盐湖之上的用盐铺成的宽阔大道。它既无桥墩，又无栏杆，整个路面平整光滑，看上去，几乎同城市里的柏油马路无两样。盐桥的养护方法十分奇特。平时，一旦路面出现坑凹，养路工人从附近的盐盖上砸一些盐粒，然后到路边挖好的盐水坑里滔一勺浓浓的卤水，往上一浇，盐粒很快融化，并凝结在路面上，坑凹处便完好如初。盐桥全长为32公里，折合市制可达万丈，横跨整个察尔汗盐湖，所以称万丈盐桥。
从盐湖回来已经下午两点多，因为甘导四点半要送我们去火车站，所以她说先请我们喝酸奶，再大吃一顿，也就是说午餐和晚餐并为一顿。好像大家都不太痛快。酸奶摊儿就在昆仑广场，只不过我们早晨来时，都还没开张。我们在一个标有新疆伊犁老字号的小摊儿，每人叫了一碗酸奶。酸奶浓浓的，表面一层厚厚的奶皮和黄黄的清油，很香！可惜LG抵制一切奶制品，越香他越不喜欢，我把他那碗也据为己有finish了。
去买土特产。我买了四盒人参果，300g包装，￥10/盒。 Lucy发现旁边有一个小门脸，专卖皮子。我们仨分了一盘擀面皮和一盘米皮，￥2/盘，Lucy的LG买的。我觉得擀面皮是吃过的最好吃的，米皮好像不太吸味，味道有点淡。 LG不喜欢吃小吃，更不吃辣的小吃，他一边和杨子聊天，一边吃栗子。格尔木卖的一种小栗子，个儿特小，又好剥又甜，￥6一斤。
午饭有很多菜，但没一个好吃的。甘导还破例给我们点了啤酒。
吃完饭，本想逗逗甘导，我们说要去买昆仑玉，结果她果然笑逐颜开，两眼放光，逗得我们偷偷直乐。在假一赔十的店里，我们几个女人你一句，我一句，侃了半天价，忽悠得售货员就差跟我们急了。我买了条藏银项链￥20，和一条昆仑玉项链￥40。好像还意犹未尽，侃价比买东西更有意思。 LG们则站在店门外说笑话，他们似乎很开心看我们侃价。
然后上火车。火车站的管理一团乱糟糟，每天唯一开往西宁的夕发朝至的列车破旧不堪，服务根本没有，连差都算不上。看来最佳旅游城市的称号也不过是个空幌子，稍微涉及实质性的问题，就不灵了。本来就觉得格尔木配不上，有刻意扶持的嫌疑。看来我没错。好在我们十个人都把铺位换在了一起，杨子他们四人敲牌，我们几个吃吃喝喝，有说有笑。 Christine的LG还买了一瓶青稞酒，青海互助县产的，46度！女生都没敢喝。十点关灯，我们都躺下睡觉。我睡中铺，挺香，比以往睡软卧还香，可能是中铺没那么响的铁轨声。不记得谁告诉过我，睡火车不要睡下铺，而且要头朝过道，铁轨的噪音会比较小。看来果真奏效。
2004/10/08，星期五，晴
早上7:30到西宁，本来想下车前吃泡面的，结果没开水了。出了车站，就看见LG联系的航空旅行社的Coaster Van。北京参团的旅行社，今天没给安排活动，把我们仍这儿一天，傍晚的飞机回北京。在沱沱河的那天，LG就争得大家同意，比较了三家西宁旅行社，搞定了今天的青海湖一日游，每人￥140，包火车站接站，日月山和青海湖门票，送机场。
我弟昨晚到的西宁，他今天和我们一起去青海湖，晚上飞回北京。我们到时，他已在车上。导游冯小姐接待我们。从一开车，她就像上紧了的发条，开始滔滔不绝地给我们介绍青海和西宁，最要命的是她不喘气，常常是让我觉得蹩得透不过气来。因为在火车上没吃早饭，现在想吃点东西，可伴着冯导的语气，越吃越噎得慌，真没辙。
西宁看来是下决心要开发旅游，高速路修得像美国一样，特别是穿山而过的公路，比美国的很多路都棒，只可惜高速路上有贪图省事怕绕路的司机逆行开车！第一次看到，吓得LG半死，结果我们的司机根本见怪不怪！
路旁的山上，树叶已变黄，树木成林的地方，秋色正浓，有时染满了一片山坡。这里的秋天比北京要早两、三个星期
9:30am我们经过倒淌河――一条从东往西流的河，东起日月山，西止青海湖，蜿蜒四十多公里。距此不远就是青藏高原、黄土高原的界碑日月山，“素有“进藏咽喉”之称。传说当年文成公主在赴西藏途中，到达日月山时，回首不见长安，西望一片苍凉，因思念家乡父母，泪流不止，公主的泪汇成了这条倒淌的河。早晨的倒淌河，河水倒影清晰，远处的雪山和近处的牦牛构成了一幅完美的图画。公路另一测，上千只羊从山坡上奔跑着冲向河边，好像它们已很久没喝过水，到河边挤到一席之地开始静静地喝水。难道它们能听懂牧羊人说的“前面有水”而开始奔跑？
10:30am到达青海湖。因为下午4:30就得赶到机场，我们决定不吃包团午餐了，自带干粮，在湖边picnic，多看一会儿湖。而且我也对命令禁止捕捞的湟鱼没有兴趣。湟鱼学名裸鲤，生长于寒冷的咸水湖，生长期很长，十年只长一两肉。近年来，由于非法偷捕，青海湖湟鱼正面临枯竭的危机。如果大家都能自觉不消费湟鱼，偷捕者也就无利可图了。冯导对我们的决定十分不开心！
青海湖是中国最大、世界第二大的内陆咸水湖，南北宽约63公里，周长360多公里，面积4500多平方公里，湖面海拔3200米，平均水深近20米，含盐量6‰。它四面被雪山环抱。可惜天气有些hazy，远处的能见度不高，周围的雪山看不太清楚。不过天很蓝，深蓝色的湖水，一望无际，碧波连天。二郎剑像一根长长的手指，指向湖心。离岸边不远，就是中国鱼雷发射实验基地的红房子。我弟开玩笑说，如果相片里没有这个房子，随便说在哪儿拍的都行，北戴河也成，因为青海湖太像大海了。一句话其实也说到我心里。因为现在是十月，油菜花没有了，我们又没有时间去鸟岛（当然就是去了也没鸟），除了湛蓝的湖水，青海湖就没什么太多的特色了。不过能到此一睹芳容，还是觉得很庆幸。
沿着湖堤，有许多招徕生意的藏民，其中有穿着艳丽民族服饰的小姑娘邀游客合照，喊价5元。她们也就5、6岁的样子，见到你就开始用稚嫩的童音唱歌，围在你左右，特别可爱。
导游说可以坐船去海心山。我觉得这么好的湖不应允许开机动船，大家都抵制坐船。在停船码头周围，看到湖水污染严重，一层黑乎乎的油漂浮在湖面。
中午12:00返程，一点钟到达日月山。日月山因文成公主西行进藏而得名，也是青藏高原和黄土高原的分界线，西为牧区，东为农区。传说文成公主进藏经过日月山，看到东西两边景色迥然不同：山麓西边是广袤苍茫，牧草丰茂，牛羊成群的大草原；山麓东边是村落点点，梯田阡陌，麦浪滚滚的农区。知道从此再看不见长安，心中无比凄凉。
也许是季节的原因，我们站在山头往哪边眺望都是一片荒凉，差别并无传说之大。日月山口的南北各有一个山头，山头上各有一个亭子，名为日亭和月亭。月亭不开，我们参观了日亭。日亭正中有一石碑，是纪念文成公主出藏的碑文，墙上有四面瓷砖画，分别记载着当时吐蕃的迎亲大使（忘记名字了）巧答李世民考题的场面。我最喜欢的一幅是唐王李世民要吐蕃大使在众多宫女中挑出哪一位是文成公主。传说吐蕃大使买通了公主的宫女，给公主用了一种叫“千里香”的香料，在挑选时，公主的身边有闻香而来的蝴蝶，环绕公主飞行，吐蕃大使毫不费力地选出了公主。
离开日月山，我们直奔机场。本来时间还算充裕，想让司机导游绕道塔尔寺，在门口稍做停留。无奈因为没吃团饭，没有坐船，少了回扣，司机导游都拉着脸，也只好作罢了。下午三点就到了机场，飞机晚点半小时，六点钟起飞。
头脑里满载着西域的美景，心中满载着喜悦，拖着疲惫的四肢，顶着黑黑的眼圈，裹着脏脏的衣服，我们到家了！
作者：coffeemug
