D7 7 / 16
5:30 am to get up at 6 o'clock on the don poncho ran out. It is still dark outside. Lhasa and Shanghai similar latitude, longitude is a difference of 30 degrees, straight-line distance of almost 3,000 km. Therefore, also sunrise and sunset later than in Shanghai for two hours. The strange thing is why the Tibet and Xinjiang are not the same as the Eastern six-time?
In this the equivalent of Shanghai 4 am, when, it really did not encounter along the way a person can only see a Department of taxis from all directions towards the same destination - the Jokhang Temple Square.
Find a smooth ride of that of the bus, this time sitting almost half of the people, and also one after another people come up, it should be 6:30 on the grid has been also set it up. Tibetan lady on the train to sell Hada and plastic bags packaging butter. Such a great age, is so cold rainy day, really hard in order. In the case of language barrier there are two boys do Kham translation, asked her if she bought a bag of hada.
Hada is a long article jacquard fabric, texture should be raw silk, but I bought this bag to take back people said to be nylon. Having said that only sell a pack of four 4 money, if it is raw silk, then there would be no profit space. When the Potala Palace, he saw duty Lama Hatta brought to wipe the dust around the statue. For believers, presented hada if their access to the sacred Buddha, probably already is a kind of times gone by.
There are two quite hard with the car to see the Korean girl, two carrying a big package together with the same hump trench coat, heavily armed special forces were like a little foreigners, plus I am a total of five visitors. Almost all the rest of the Tibetans in Sichuan Kham up the boys, using acrylic blankets, baby holding back behind the grandmother, the young couple. Look tired street was on the sidewalk begging for money to beggars and those who train in Shen Zhaoshou prepared to tourists Tongzhan knife at a stall that today faith can and these have dignity Tibetan counterparts really happy.
7 o'clock, day daybreak up, we finally set off.
Ganden Monastery in Lhasa, Lazi County, east of distance, but more than 40 kilometers. But according to the speed of highways in Tibet has opened nearly two hours, and finally the opening of a long crooked a muddy mountain road, which finally saw a large red, white and yellow palace homes communities, in the gray mountain is especially eye-catching bright colors.
Ganden and Drepung, Sera collectively, the "three temples" is the six major monasteries of the Gelug Sect in the first, but also the beginning of the Reformation in the 15th century home, Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug Sect master of self-cultivation and passed away in the office during his lifetime. In the Tibetan Ganden inside means "Tusita days," Buddhacarita Maitreya Buddha of the fourth day of the six days of the desire realm. Ganden Tripa over the entire head of the Gelug Sect, although few people know in the Mainland, and its position in Tibetan Buddhism after the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Erdeni. However, the relics during the Cultural Revolution had almost been destroyed, have been depleted, and now the whole building is 80 years after the reconstruction. For this reason, in the field, with few tourist's itinerary, including the Ganden arrangements, but also precisely because not too many tours and Wai Dike, holds many lessons for the Ganden Monastery was able to maintain the tranquility and simplicity of a character . We went too early, the monastery has not yet opened. A group of people crowded under the eaves shiver, cold laugh. Fortunately, inside the monks who heard noise outside, and soon ran out for us in advance opened the door.
Because the Tibetans have with a rush, but still no one reminded me of Mai Menpiao. Although a variety of free riders circulating online canon that I have this time was purely by accident. To compensate, I bought a piece of Ganden Monastery, the sixth a few lines, that is, one painted black, rectangular wood, carved Tibetan painted a color, can be used as a very beautiful decoration.
Write here, I am a little not find a successor. The two Kangba little brother was talking animatedly to take me tour Ganden Monastery - even though they are only the beginning of his visit here. Travel up the road has always been accosted, there are already three or four people take the initiative to leave me a contact, if I am not a pretty girl, they are still so hot? I doubt it. In short I do not, and Kham boys counterparts, but Shumenshulu another trailing behind in a tour of. And it was soon recognized several people yesterday afternoon I was in the Jokhang Monastery has been trailing them one back guy. In short, "Shame Brigadeのはかきてhomes," simply on the old with the nerve, and we approached them.
Discussed with great interest by the destruction of Ganden during the Cultural Revolution of that period of history: What is the reason to make Tibetan children swore off for hundreds of years of ancestral beliefs into a single-minded support of the great leader Chairman Mao's Red Guards.
Could be argued that theocracy's traditional Tibetan culture in a relatively closed environment, it is still capable of maintaining stability and balance, but once the government under the leadership of the Communist Party, democratic reform, changes come, the old hierarchy and values collapse, and In many people's minds have been completely denied, many in this piece of land on the bow to endure the suffering of the children of serfs made the destruction of religion, but religion and enslaved the people of anesthesia for many years a rebound?
The afternoon riding his tricycle, Yi Liuyan panoramic view of the Potala Palace ran Chakpori shoot. Potala Palace to the west of the White Tower, is a hill behind. Hanging wooden one: "Here to prohibit climbing." Disregard of everyone else and competing to climb. All those who have come here to climb the Potala Palace, panoramic film, and wonder about all of the Potala Palace, panoramic photos are only two angles: either take pictures of the Potala Palace, from the 30-degree angle where the side slope plus two Baita; or photographed in the square that is completely positive that it will be a five-star red flag, a number of ugly lotus-shaped lamps, and Abdallah foot of a huge banner on the wall - I went to this for some time to celebrate a What Lhasa Beer Festival - also be captured on camera.
Moreover, according to all the wonderful landscape of Lhasa, its basic conditions must have a very blue sky as the background. Huang days like me, who do not need to Lhasa thought. The result is hand-full of dirt climbing, and then, as always, dressed in similar clothes, arrayed similar POSE, his face is almost an embarrassment of a smile, took one apart from the background behind the other and previous similar "to this 1 Tour "photo. Hands full of dirt and then the climb down.
According to idle after I finished and saw the Tibetans started from the back of the Potala Palace, Hula啦to turn the past, had an idea to follow them to turn up. Then see the magnificent palace behind the scene of an extraordinary people's livelihood: the right hand is an attached one continuous turning round, the left is a small stall after another. Is not sold on the street was designed as cutting off foreign visitors and fake antiques, but for local residents, general household goods, clothing. In addition to large barrel-shaped beam incense, air-dried beef and dried goods such as Tibetan characteristics, reminding me of this, who is living in Tibet, and the rest, and some mainland cities are not much different from the small. North Kangang out from the pocket, came to the big vegetable market in a return visit, I just feel more species-rich than in Shanghai also. In addition to the price of fresh fruits and vegetables 1-2 times more expensive than in Shanghai, the seems to have no lack of material.
Line is the most bustling Beijing Road business district Belle shoes with a sell off not playing too well, Baleno Bossini brand stores such as road, to get almost all the goods here. There did not expect things - Gesang duo on North Road, D version of video stores, "the city's only disc edition of" Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, "" Fahrenheit 911 "DVD has come." Colt on the road is more wash your hair shop, wearing high-heeled sandals, shampoo Diaodai Qun, and younger students (non-Tibetan) one's face smeared in red sitting on the door in vain, but somewhat blankly expression of.
This will not be any one of those who have not been to the plateau of Tibet imagination. However, such a character has been lost in the Mainland under the influence of culture, has become neither fish nor fowl Lasa You make me feel warm. Instead of having to keep in Lhasa for several decades, a century before the original, I am more glad to see her now in this way.
D8 7 / 17
The thought of going home tomorrow, back to my normal life of those vulgar and work go, and I feel like too little to be added. My work with the "pure" ah "pious" ah "sanctity" ah miss such an elegant word, but in addition will allow me to support themselves every six months to feed myself and a small amount of money she saved the extent allowed everywhere around in circles, came back not only to themselves, but also guide and support my family has had boasted to friends of the capital. My next goal is to Urumqi Turpan Kashgar line, for the next six months, have to continue to desperately save money.
Lhasa travel to complete the last task, Drepung Monastery, the starting!
From the city by taxi to the Drepung 20 yuan may have been open to the root Pei Wuzi mountain hillside positive door, save a lot of climbing effort. However, between the road I saw a small truck to devote pilgrims go into the mountains, sitting mostly Tibetans, if their journey with the car should be able to increase the number of fun. Refrain from that.
, And Ganden, as is equally earn Drepung was built temples connection, it is highly layered. Follow the steps going up a step by step, slowly, the roadside murmur of mountain streams flow down, simple hydraulic drive wheel unit one by one by the cylinder rotation, is very distinctive. The other side of the road - it is very much a country as a whole is relatively characteristic of Tibet, but Tibet is not within the scope of local characteristics - beggars. These people there are men and women, there are monks there are vulgar, rare for the elderly or the disabled, but added to the limbs completely, looks sturdy than I mainly of middle-aged. There are as large as 10 years old will be small enough to just go kids, dress still looks neat, pro to go, holding out his hand to scream aloud: "Auntie, give me money." If the pregnant countless corner of zero votes, can see that all money the gave him one, so play down the amount of exercise a day Avalokitesvara is not expected that, under the long head knock in the front of the Jokhang Monastery.
Some people say that the Tibetan custom of the case, but definitely not a good custom. Everything should still promising aspects: Although they beg, but at least do not steal or rob, nor the General Assembly discuss holding someone else's legs strong (but reportedly large number of foreign beggars in recent years, the influx of bad line rules).
But tourists like us, after all, thousands of miles from the purpose is not to give non-productive and locals tribute. Hope that they will work better on their own lives, in particular, not to teach kids to school this set.
Closer to home, before the Dalai Lama as Tibet's Drepung Monastery Ganden Phodrang the core of the regime, the scale at the three major monasteries are among the most massive. Architectural pattern such as the maze general, if there is no "visit this out" signs from time to time guidelines, much may be lost. Every time that may take us to repeat, however, into the next hall and found that once again, was not visited locations. But apart from fresco style seems different from other monasteries, I just feel Dianwai Buddhist scripture painted on the rocks, as well as Sour Milk Drinking Festival Buddha drying rack to watch some more fresh. The ground measures Chin hall is greasy, as if the past school cafeteria wall murals are also being put out of butter lamps are not year-round oil and gas smoked a shiny visible. The temple there is a "Non-means woman in this hall," a small room, so the door on the poly-filled laughingly female compatriots, waiting for a gay male from the inside out to explain the mystery of what is included in the end.
Drepung Monastery is the main tribute Buddha in Lhasa said the whole "only" has three of Qianshouqianyan Guanyin, like the other two one at the Jokhang Temple, one in the Potala Palace, they have all seen it.
As for the various temple lamas on duty, always repeating the same work - a large basin before it votes in a few hair. Not even look at people feel dull matter to. Chatted with him a moment to learn about modern life as a monk has to go through national institutions (the National Commission said that a total of only 3) standardized assessment seriously and is lined with barriers is complicated, and by the need to obey the allocation of post-admission. Can be assigned to such a big Drepung monastery in the good fortune to really good fortune, the probability of no more than test Peking University Tsinghua University.
Drepung Monastery is also a large kitchen must not be left out in a good place to go. Drepung Monastery of the most mature phase cluster of tens of thousands of monks, it is necessary for so many people in the same pot for cooking, the kitchen's size and the size of the kitchen can be imagined. The food is also definitely want to come then, is very simple, there would be no room for renovation of nutrition with colors. Now monks have their own sub-group is basically made from rice straw, large kitchen and buttered tea is only responsible for providing special treatment for the leading cadres. Chuihuo also were using electric fans, pumps butter, but the shiny polished bronzes and pot, or as in the past. Can be in such a style of the kitchen cooking, certainly have a good sense of accomplishment.
Finally forsake the proper channel along the winding paths, and passed down a general direction to go global. Drepung Monastery At present, only 600 people. So many shag been abandoned. Looking at the scale of these buildings, then imagine how the heyday of the general proposed projects have been Jiaoren raspberry. Year three temples have organized a political regime, many monks armed gang fights. Results are to win Drepung and Ganden suffered greatly from Sera ended in complete failure. After the past few days visit, I think Sera an alley to go in the end most certainly is not conducive to the layout of the offense and defense, win the Ganden Monastery, Drepung Monastery and the maze-like in the most favorable geographical conditions, especially for organized street fighting.
Several ten-year-old monk, wearing did not fit the big shoes, chasing each other kick an empty drink bottle. A 20-year-old Di Liu a young lama is a plastic bag of vegetables, prepared to start doing lunch dormitory. In fact, the monasteries and living area of our universities, there is no different. Monk lay people, all the same to live.
PM to complete the trip last task: to buy local products. The most you want to manually turn the system through the tube (there are now many sewing, and Wu Su incomparable, designed to coax the field punch), street vendors one by one, pointing copper-nickel alloy to you say "silver" and even the eyelids are also asking price 150,180 do not blink. Try two days ago has been price, but in the end the value of its geometry not sure, but also the gas shortage are starting to fail. Today in temple monks from Drepung Monastery small shop has opened to see the light, as long as 85 yuan. With the end of a sudden heart at ease a lot. The asking price of 180 hawkers in condemning the meal after the 40 to force a purchase price of the next four. But even so, maybe the other dark-ri still earn fixed miles of laughter.
Street was fake fake antique beads I am not the slightest interest in Tibetan silver bracelet on the wrist as long as one day bring the lap from a week to ensure no red bubble faded. I vow never to send door to give Tong Zhan, specialized to the street was a tributary of the fall in. alleys to see where many would go visit the Tibetan people together where to go. In the Tibetan Tibetan clothing purchased a pattern of jacquard fabric, 25 yuan / m, pull up a sofa and two meters better to do; roadside stalls auspicious pattern pieces curtain 1, asking price of 25 also went to 20; the same reservoir -type pattern jacquard cloth bag a smile, asking price is also 20 to 18. There are the national mall in India Xiang, Nepal, paper lanterns 4-5 Yuan / month is an appropriate venue to give the students my colleagues look at 60 bought. My street was once a time in between the contacts with hotels, like moving hamster keeps making the same variety of things to move to the residence. Significantly over a shopping addiction.
Dinner at Sichuan Kodate point of a Haggis soup pot, a person holding a small basin as a large pot of eating light. Tomorrow I will return to Shanghai, I think this is especially a good appetite. Lhasa is also a lovely place, but I did not intend again. Ha ha ha, A Farewell to bar, Tibet!
The next day from the dark bed, playing the hot way to the mother by the Civil Aviation Center, 6:00 shuttle, and will, unfortunately, I lost in Paris, a three-city taxi. With me more than a week, it will already have completed their historic mission. In the way of the Dao Lang arrived in the airport for the first time saw a handwritten boarding pass, and sat in a large group tours in Japan Aoba Sang. Guides young men say a few words for each whole body will be twisted together, like a clown funny television appearance, the original Japanese really have such a sick man.
Once again, Shuangliu Airport transfer, a discount air ticket back to Shanghai is not playing. Sad. Shanghai temperature of 35 degrees, I like carrying a large bag, hand woven bags migrant workers are still talking about a month. When I got home almost dead weight.
Impressions:
At first, I like many people, singing "Sister Drum" and "return to Lhasa," on the plateau, they found that people here just listen to Dao Lang and Rene Liu. There is singing and dancing to Indian music. Shanghai people Hara, northern Kazakhstan and South Korea, Kazakhstan and India on the Tibetans.
First of all, we must destroy is the need for altitude sickness almost superstitious like fear. I went through two does not apply to the extent that its reaction can be entirely within the scope of patience, in addition to the original poor heart and lung function of people, most people should be able to rely on their own bodily functions to adapt. 50 years a large number of troops into Tibet in the Mainland after the high mortality rate, or even "dead even" This kind of extreme examples, reasons, or because people were poor in their own physical fitness, lack of materials supply and nutritional intake, physical less than meet the on a daily basis a large number of manual workers engaged in several aspects such as the negative factors lead to consequences. For today's tourists that can fully rest, specifically for treatment of altitude sickness drugs have been widely developed. As soon as you pay attention, even children and senior citizens can secure the completion of the plateau of the tour.
Is not a mysterious land of Tibet, in the past simply because she was on the particularity of the geographical environment, the lack of communication with the outside world, the relative isolation in the long form its own unique customs. However, since many of the Buddhist concept of the ideological foundation that she and we have a lot to common areas. Uighur Muslim, compared with the Tibetans and the Han us closer together.
For my point of view of Tibetan Buddhism tend to the negative: The measurement of the body to the path of pilgrims devout Tibetans say they Yehao, but such devotion from the lack of choice. The more backward regions or countries, people will more and more dependent on religion, and religion to human control and the stronger the degree of restraint. That is why the existence of Islamic fundamentalism in Afghanistan, rather than Turkey or Malaysia reasons. Than in developed countries, this time people have had the freedom to choose, so religion must turn to "people" have made service in order to avail choice.
Author: _wfo07959
