"Who day and night sky gazing, who is yearning for a lasting dream, can we say there are songs of praise, or it can not be changed if the solemn. Oh! I saw a mountain, a block mountains and rivers, mountains and rivers connected to a seat, yeah啦Faso, that is, the Tibetan Plateau, yeah啦cable, that is, the Tibetan Plateau! "
2002 Tibet travel
You have to go Tibet, Yunnan, Guizhou, after the idea, but costly to Tibet, altitude sickness is a problem, so the "go to Tibet" is limited to casual, never seriously. Early in July, Portland-based company gave me a SURPRIZE, actually choose to Lhasa host the "China Petroleum & Chemical Technology Development Seminar", and the duration is 7 22 ~ 28 days. Return via Chengdu, Wei Zheng Sen accompany me swim Qingcheng, Xining cousin also Xiequan Jia to the hotel to see me, this is the line in Tibet bonus.
July 21 morning flights on routes to take Ha, noon to Chengdu Shuangliu Airport, places next to the airport, "into the Nikko Hotel", price 100 yuan / day, facilities very poor. Chengdu, Lhasa, fly the route is "Southwest Airlines" monopoly operation, therefore, the sound of a discount, except the route-inch folding not to fight. Finally up, including insurance, airport fees, from Xiamen to Lhasa for a one-way cost of 2565 yuan (Xiamen, Chengdu, Xiamen Airlines, round-trip air ticket discount), "Lhasa Hotel" for six days of accommodation is 1,800 yuan, conference fee is 1,800 yuan, and then coupled with the cost of stopping in Chengdu, a road trip to Tibet be spending nine some one thousand dollars, no wonder that is often said, "leave the country easy to Tibet is difficult!." After lunch, and Wei Masamori contact, he suggested that temporarily meet, when I returned to Chengdu on the 28th from Tibet after a good reception. The Tibet to go through a few places more than 5,000 meters above sea level, more than in the past I have reached the 4,000-meter records (Riyue Qinghai, Sichuan, Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong, Yunnan Bai Mang and Meili Snow Mountain), "plateau response" can not be no defense, therefore, play a special trip into town the afternoon, a large pharmacy in the city and bought a pack of Rhodiola (available five days), the evening began to take.
July 22 morning get up at five o'clock, after a hurried breakfast rushed to the airport. Shuangliu Airport terminal is new, very large, very modern, but the poor efficiency of the staff, security entrance of a chaotic, passengers were rushed to the airport early to receive your boarding pass, and once they have been unable to get timely security checks, resulting in flight delays in take-off time would be security. SZ4403 is the A340 wide-body aircraft, a row of eight seats, in order to see snow-capped mountains, I deliberately want a window seat, but unfortunately the way are cloudy, nothing to see. Block was a company commander with the armed police, soldiers stationed in Tibet "Shannan," chat rooms that the treatment of troops stationed in Tibet is still good, Wu one month's wages more than 3000, and, soon also to the troops stationed in Hong Kong in line monthly salary can be up to 6000. Wu said that the plateau response is individualized, it seems that does not depend on physical fitness, his strong physique, but each time returned to Tibet from the mainland do not adapt to the plane we should drink, "Rhodiola" and return to the resident After that they reclusive week. Contrast to the situation of his family members, although much less physical, but each time to come to Tibet have never seen a reaction to the altitude.
Two hours after the flight landed at the Gonggar Airport, Tengen light rain, the Lhasa Hotel, Central pulled Airport guide, let me stay in the parking lot waiting for latecomers Pakistan. Just felt wrong on the bus, heart rate over 100 / min, which may be altitude sickness, and much cooler temperatures than in Chengdu, I put on a sweater. Waited a long time, then pull over to the Central House of the north of Chen Wei, China and Pakistan and running, along the south bank of Brahmaputra westbound Gonggar Airport more than 100 kilometers away from Lhasa, cars need to open lines more than two hours. The wide Brahmaputra I was very surprised During the rainy season, the river rose to almost the roadside, after the flood inundated Zuozuo green islets and a crown clumps exposed surface, so that the landscape from the far side of the road has been to the middle of a river extension. Walked about 30 kilometers to Qushui Bridge, this bridge is an important transportation hub in Tibet: south east, the West in both directions, respectively Quwang Gonggar airport and Gyantse; the northern end of the East and West were to go to Lhasa and Shigatse . After a bridge, bypassing song Lishui town, the road stretching along the river again, but this time is no longer the Tsangpo, but she was a tributary of the Lhasa River. Lhasa River Landscape and Yaruzampbo are similar with the wide river, the river yellow. I have twice opened the windows have been the driver snapped shot Riverview stopped, for the first time I think he is afraid of rain into the car, to be opened again after the rain smaller windows, the driver yelled: "You are not afraid of very cold ah?", Central la said, was beginning to Tibet after a cold is often followed by cerebral edema or pulmonary edema, ranging from several days in bed, while in life-threatening. Half-way stop, I also took the opportunity to open the window taking pictures, a group of children came up, rushing to greet me, but they are shouting for a long time, I just came to understand a "HELLO", according to tourism manual pointing, I took out several coins in minutes to them, to show that Tibetan unity. Soon come into the city at the roadside to see a colorful Buddha relief, said that such a relief can be seen everywhere in Tibet, but I saw this in Tibet to the office.
Four-star hotel close to Lhasa, Norbulingka, the whole of Tibet's most upscale hotels, but apart from the standard rooms in the two beds are very spacious, other facilities also and the Mainland, almost three-star. West Jiaotong University Li Xuxiang and I share a standard room, Lee than I was delayed, a door, complaining about the price too high in Lhasa at the airport to buy bottles of mineral water, actually COST his ONE DOLLAR (RMB 8.00 million). Settle down, the feel is still good, would like to seize the time Tour Norbulingka (conference there is no such arrangement), but caution must be the central pulling a good rest and not rash, if attract a reaction to the altitude will affect the following trip. To see her put it so seriously, my mind somewhat timid, had to give up Norbulingka and honestly to stay at the hotel for a rest. Miss this opportunity to be up to 28 from the Tibetan, I can not find the right time to visit the Norbulingka (Although they were at the window), which is regarded as the Tibet trip, one of the many regrettable. Schedule of this meeting as follows:
July 22 〔〕 meeting Monday and pick up rest of adaptation
July 23 〔〕 day meeting Tuesday
Wednesday July 24 〔〕 Lhasa tour, visit the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Street
Thursday July 25〕 〔Lhasa - and that wood wrong - Lhasa
Friday July 26 〔〕 Lhasa - Nyingchi - rouland, overnight Nyingchi Guesthouse
Saturday July 27 〔〕 Nyingchi - Lhasa
Sunday July 28〕 〔end of the meeting, send the airport
July 23, when the morning wake up somewhat headache, This is said to altitude sickness, but not as legendary as piercing, in fact, in Xiamen, I would Ougan this headache. Looking back in 1999, in Yunnan Zhongdian and Deqin have had a similar feeling, when played with thought it was too tired and would like to think that up is probably the only plateau respond. 9:00 on the third floor conference room at the hotel to meet the North by Wai and the Chinese Academy of Sciences Beijing Institute of Chemistry of the Hu-Liang academicians for academic reports, talking all about the content of polyolefin catalysts, "Petrochemical Technology and Applications" Wang Jingzheng editor also introduced the the idea of a magazine, will break the door when you shoot in a hotel lobby a "family portrait." Afternoon session is free to speak, delegates were briefed about the situation in this unit, I also talk about our ethylbenzene dehydrogenation catalyst research and development and industrial application.
7 pm in the "ZAP restaurant" dinner, the Lhasa Hotel, Western restaurant, Chinese restaurant and the Tibetan restaurant, "ZAP restaurant" the supply of Chinese food. I would like to try the Tibetan meal, the waiter chose to take possession of restaurants to tsampa, a small dish lying on the size of three gray duck dumpling, at the same table to try a little bit each person (together enough semi-groups), the dare not say too familiar, but the idea is out, I do not eat a little bit sorry waiter ran this special trip, with the courage to swallow a whole regiment, eat well pain. During the meeting, that individual representatives have severe altitude sickness, Daqing Wang Gang is one of an old friend, he entered the hotel on the bed-ridden and not only unable to attend the meeting, had not even eat dinner. Lhasa, the sky until nearly 9:00 before dark, alone, went for a walk after dinner to take light rain along the east went to the Potala Palace, Beijing Road, go through the palace square in front of Yu Tuo Road, and then went together to Barkhor and Jokhang Temple the final fight-back hotel. Lhasa is not, so a walk on the east-west direction is almost half the city. When you first saw the Potala Palace is a side, I feel a little known hard to break, to be shifted from west to east, its positive after see its majesty.
July 24 weather, get out of bed when the head has not hurt, and everyone in high spirits after breakfast to prepare to participate in "Journey to Lhasa Tour", even the day before yesterday, Wang Gang, also to join the bedridden. Arrangements for the morning visit the Potala Palace, a total of three sent CMB, our "bus captains" is "Petrochemical Technology and Applications" editorial Chen Yaping. Tour guides in Lhasa Hotel Pando, cheerful girl, speaking bluntly, we called her Pandora, the name behind the more a "pull" is the Tibetan custom, and respect. Pando seems more than 20 years old, is a descendant of aristocratic grandfather was originally a manor, during the Cultural Revolution was driven out Zhuang Yuan. Pando was not yet born, and she claimed to have never been to his grandfather's estate.
The Potala Palace stands on the Red Hill above the mountains on the south slope, depending on the mountain winds built to the summit. We drive along the west side of the ramp up the mountain palace, to the mountainside at get off and walk to the mountain top, by the back door into the Potala Palace. A large number of Tibetans and we are crowded in together, they come from different parts of Tibet as well as Sichuan, Qinghai, Yunnan, Gansu and other places, an arduous journey just to pray to the Buddha next life, they have done everything for this life afterlife happiness. Potala Palace, the building is divided into two parts, the Red Palace and the White House, the Red Palace center, the White House on both sides of the separation. Red Palace within the activities engaged in various Buddhist temple and the pagoda of the Dalai Lamas, the White House is the Dalai Lama's daily life and engage in political activities take place. "Abdallah" is Sanskrit, but also translated as "Putuo Luo", originally referred to the Guanyin Bodhisattva of residence of the island (Tibetan Buddhism, the Dalai Lama is the reincarnation of Goddess of Mercy). The 7th century, the Tubo Dynasty, the Tang Princess Wen Cheng Songtsan married for the "One City, built in order to boast later," ordered the construction of this temple of the palace there are 999.
I have been to a lot of the famous monasteries of Tibetan Buddhism, such as the Lama Temple in Beijing, Chengde Eight Outer Temples, the Tar Monastery in Qinghai and Gansu Labrang Monastery and so on, I found the contents are similar, but really is one of the Potala Palace The most ambitious person. There is a palace called "Fukuda wonderful fruit" (Qianlong's hand-written) Buddhist temple, follow the crowd to queue up to enter after I discovered the need to pay DONATION, and must kneel before the statues, I was an old lama by pressing the first (top-mode blessings) , for the first time a head knock to the Buddha, thinking that even if the bow down to the Tibetan people off. Later heard that the old lama was not easy, not only versed in Buddhism, but also speaks fluent English and Japanese. Potala Palace, the oldest temple within the age is a King-dong, located between the Red Palace and the White House is a Tibetan relics, according to legend of self-cultivation for Songtsan hole, there Songtsan, Princess Wen Cheng and Princess and the Lu-foot statue Tung Chan, who's statue. Inside it is a stove, legendary culinary touch can be clever, I would go in line touched a bit, hoping to be able to cook good food. Welcome Hall is the only casual photographs of intrauterine room, had received, Jiang Zemin, I was sitting in the seat sat on the river took a picture. Potala Palace, the top of the seven golden roofs, commonly known as "Golden Summit", there is a large balcony, panoramic views of the city of Lhasa to view: from here you can see Chakpori right above the tower stands tall ; forward-looking is the Potala Palace Square, Tibet's peaceful liberation monument, erected in the square's southern end, and then the distance is wide Lhasa River; to the left front of the lookout you can see are braving the thick smoke (incense) in the Jokhang Temple . Lhasa is not a tall building as a whole, are everywhere around 4 ~ 6 layers of Western-style buildings, with the exception Jokhang Temple area still retains two ~ three-storey Tibetan houses, prayer flags fluttering, filled with pale green wafting from the Jokhang Temple smoke.
From Jinding down, but also visited several halls of the White House, and then the sun from the east hall Chugong along the positive ramp down, ending a tour of the Potala Palace. Chugong a small street filled with outdoor stands, I fancy a turn through the use of the prayer wheel, women stall holders asking price 60, I also 20, she let the 50, I said 30 and finally to 40 yuan turnover, additional also requested that she presented a turquoise bracelet. Tibetan prayer wheel surface Liuzizhenyan "hum do it Padme Hum", within the full texts, is said to have been rotating on the ring is equivalent to the wheel of the scripture song read it, so pious Tibetans always leave their hands through the wheel.
Abdallah where the Red Mountain and the ridge originally Chakpori linked to the construction of Beijing Road (Beijing aiding Tibet project) through the ridge cut off at the time of the Potala Palace Square, and later in the original location of the ridge and both sides of the middle of the road Red Mountain and Chakpori foot, the added repair of a White Tower, Three Pagodas a line, a symbolic expression of the Hongshan Chakpori connected with the original conception. Now, the Potala Palace was under repair, the local authorities in the palace walls before the brush on the two red banners, the content is to thank the Party Central Committee's concern, must be high quality to complete the repair work ... .. and so on. Came to the Potala Palace Square for nearly noon, I, Li Xuxiang, Wang Wei and Gao Xiao-Dong and his wife were quite a few travel was concentrated people everywhere will want to return other people early on the ground vehicles, anxious to rush back to hotel to eat lunch. The few of us take into account the Potala Palace in Tibet is the major photo sites, and therefore, regardless of aroused public indignation, insisted on a satisfactory photo shoot before the Pando return repeated calls from cars, this time, three China and Pakistan have opened two away.
More than three in the afternoon, all the staff again in the hotel lobby concentration, preparing to go to the Jokhang Temple, boarded the bus before I found the lobby in a very Tibet ornaments feature shot standing next to a pretty good photo. Jokhang Temple fantasy land full name of Yang Xian Temple is the oldest temple in Tibet. Pando said, the Jokhang Temple the most sacred treasure is the 12-year-old life-sized, like the Buddha. Recorded in Tibetan Buddhism, Buddhist master was still alive, the Indian god of artisans who have completed the stretch of ge Ma, he had eight shape the life-sized Buddha Sakyamuni were recorded at the age of eight and twelve true capacity, from Lord Buddha himself opening light. Buddhist peak, the 12-year-old seated in a king from India presented to China, AD 647, the Tubo Songtsan marrying men from Princess Wen Cheng, Emperor Taizong shifts this respect as a rare treasure, a dowry transfer snowy. Around the same time, the first ruler of Nepal, Tibet, Yuwen Cheng married Princess statue brought in from his hometown of eight life-sized statue of the Buddha seated. To do this event, Songtsan ordered the construction of the Jokhang Temple and Ramoche, respectively-foot statue dedicated to Princess Princess, Culture and brought into the Buddha. Wen Cheng Ramoche built over, she will design Ramoche doors east, to form Si TANG Wei was intended. Foot statue presided over the construction of the Jokhang Temple, but the repair of the wall down, Princess Wen Cheng was found in Lhasa valley is like a sit with the Rakshasa woman, red Shandong plane lying Pool Lake is the heart of Rakshasa woman, she made only to fill Horizontal Pool Lake, will be the Jokhang Temple built in the heart of the witch in order to quell the demons, and must use white soil can be broken pack goats Raksasa magic woman. Songtsan incorporated into the text of the proposed filling the order to construct a temple. In the Tibetan language, the "White Goat" made "hot" sound, "soil" issue "Sa" sound, so Buddhist temple hall was known as "Jalan Sa" to commemorate the achievements of white goat pack soil. Jokhang Monastery, west door, expressing the West-foot statue miss my country's mind. Over time, the "hot Sa" evolved into "Lhasa", meaning from the "white goat pack territories" into "the Holy Land." Al-Quds "Lhasa," so named because of the Jokhang Temple, showing the noble status of the Jokhang Temple. But by the 8th century AD, the Tang Princess Jincheng Tubo married again, this time is the grandson of Songtsan Manson power, he would foot statue of the Buddha moved Ramoche Princess, Princess Wen Cheng of the Buddhist diversion to the Jokhang Temple worship. After the gradual decline of Buddhism in India, to stay there for six life-sized, like the Buddha is not destroyed, is thrown into the sea, in the Buddha Ramoche also "Cultural Revolution" destroyed by "Red Guards" of the damage, so , Jokhang Temple in this 12-year-old life-sized statue of Sakyamuni, as has become the world's only remaining, was the Buddha himself has opened the main light of Buddhist relics.
We are from the main gate to enter the Jokhang Temple, first came to a spacious open-air courtyard, where Lhasa pray Dafa will "Meurant Qin Mo," a place, in the past during first month in Tibetan calendar, the three major monasteries in Lhasa monks should be gathered here, prayers, debate the scriptures, exorcism, and to greet the Buddha and other activities, but experience in previous years, the "snow lion flag" incident, the authorities in order to prevent monks who rioted, has temporarily prohibited the Buddhist activities. From the open-air courtyard to the right to enter a gate, hundreds of butter lamps behind the lights is the famous "Jue health" Buddhist temple, which is the main body of the Jokhang Temple, was enclosed courtyard style, four-storey, there are large by the central government Hall, is a place where monks chant amending the law. The hall has a large middle Qianshouqianyan Guanyin statue, which the left side of Padmasambhava, the right side Jampa Buddha statue. Sakyamuni Buddhist temple located on the side of the Great Mosque, dedicated to Princess Wen Cheng brought the life-sized statue, here is the core of the Jokhang Temple is the ultimate desire of the pilgrims at. However, unlike the case during a visit to the Potala Palace, I was again a large number of Buddhist statues, murals, Thangka hangs up, as if seeing a lot of things, but almost nothing to remember. Temple was not allowed to take photographs (photographs need to pay the cost of more than hundred), I take advantage of monks who did not pay attention, and holding the camera pretending to rest leaning against the railing, facing the chosen direction of the lens, using slow-speed (not open flash) photographed a few, after the control guidebook knew, was the one I photographed a bearded Buddha is the master Padmasambhava. Filmed delay time, me and everyone got separated, alone in a temple when you return to an open-air courtyard, surrounded by only the pious Tibetans. Meng a rise and found a number of companions is the roof terrace on the camera, waving to them, actually, "turning a blind eye," not loud calls for holy temple, look around and they can not find the stairs, had to "herd", followed by Tibetans to enter a covered corridor through the round, but also learn of their appearance, keep pushing along one by one through the wheel. Who would have thought to go for a long time, not only did not see the stairs, and then return to the original open-air courtyard. Helplessness the occasion, had to pin down a monk, to say "le," and then inquired where the stairs, turned on my side not far from a small door. Only later did I know that Tibetans in Lhasa is the Jokhang Temple and transiting through the Sakyamuni Buddha as the center, inside, middle and outer 3 by turning the Road: around the Jokhang Temple, Chakpori, the Potala Palace, Xiao Zhao Temple walk around the "outer circle", the Tibetan language known as "Lin Kuo"; turn a lap around the Jokhang Temple as "the circle" (actually on the clockwise walk around the Barkhor), the Tibetan language known as " 8 profile "; I just turned the promenade called terra Gallery, around the most sacred and" unwilling to health "Buddhist temple turning circle for" inner circle ", the Tibetan language known as the" capsule profile. " I unknowingly went so far as to complete the "capsule profile", perhaps because it is destined Buddha was the Buddha enchant.
Embark on the second floor, standing on the platform, gold-plate as the Golden, golden buildings and the wheel in the sun shine, look magnificent. Looking west, the distance stands the magnificent Potala Palace, the rise of looking at the heavens, a very high blue, and clouds were dazzling white, bow their heads under the hope and the Jokhang Temple gathered in front of a large number of followers, are haughty disregard of others to worship on bended knees knock long头. Smoke burning wormwood's ascension into the sky, smell filled the air, floating streamer, Gaojuguotou believers held their palms together, then moved to the face, chest, and then the body prostrate, hands-reach, forehead tap the ground, was cast in five body shape, mouth constantly reciting scriptures, and so back and forth, this may be the world's most pious way of prayer. The face of these circumstances, his childhood suffering from atheism-round education, and I can not for the Tibetans moved by the pious.
From the Jinding down, out of the Jokhang Temple, the next program is to visit Barkhor. Barkhor in Lhasa by turning the Road "in circle" around the Jokhang Temple. Pando has repeatedly explained, visiting the Bajiao Street, we, following a clockwise direction, to show the Buddha (I understand that for the Tibetan people) respect. However, the so-called "Bajiao Street" concept does not seem to be limited to a circular of the pedestrian street, it should include that a single piece around the Jokhang Temple, Tibetans have a strong flavor of life in neighborhoods. Walk in the Barkhor, the bustling around the crowd there mutter prayers in turn by the people, there is the way of pilgrims kowtow crawl forward, but also like me gaze of visitors. Different dressed people, with varying purposes, mixed in the same crowded streets, along with the flow in one direction. I followed the crowd to go and feel wonderful on this street: a rich business atmosphere, he also permeated with a bit solemn and dignified, which is an ancient religious culture and the modern business community the most unique and the most natural integration. Bajiao Street on both sides are full of street stalls selling a variety of souvenirs, street stalls is a behind the indirect one of the small shops. It is said that most business people from Sichuan and Qinghai, one brought over by the little Lhasa locals. Wang Wei, Gao Xiao-Dong wife and I have these few people with similar interests to go in together, sharing in each store to slowly pick, play counter-offer. Pando had been explained, 5:30 to be concentrated in the Jokhang Temple square in front of the car, ready to pull us to a few markets and go shopping, but few of us agreed that only in Barkhor shopping, and then he "fought" back to hotel. After carefully selected and that there is a satisfactory harvest, Wang spent more than 20 yuan to buy a turn through the round (cheaper than I bought more), I spent 100 yuan to buy a bronze of the seven "white ferry Mother" statue (asking price 300 yuan), Xiao-Dong Gao couple is also quite good gains. However, let me surprise is that some went so far as openly on display on booth personnel system, skeleton skull bowls as well as the personnel who made the femur bone flute, it reminds us not forget the brutality of serfdom in the past. Bypass Bajiao Street week, went back in front of the Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, has completed be transferred by the road "in circle", I have inadvertently become a turning on the three "profiles" in the "capsule profiles" and "Eight profiles . " Still has many followers in front of the Jokhang Monastery, they came from all directions, in the sunset time and again prayed, that kind of dedication, that kind of devotion, total disregard for our curious eyes and a good camera flash.
To leave the Jokhang Temple, the high Xiaodong suggested going to drink "sweet tea", he found from the tour guide manual, near Danjie Lin Lu Zhaxidajie hotels here are a Lhasa's largest sweet tea. 4 portraits did not like the first flies to East Turkistan, West hit, multi-party inquiries, I found this tea, but the scale is much smaller than expected, the waiter, but 3 to 4 people. Each of us asked for a glass of sweet tea (6 yuan / cup), Tibetan young girl whispered to wait for such a long number, ask how long, replied that about ten minutes. I was I was too thirsty, and there should be a cup of butter tea (5 yuan / cup). After ten minutes, but no tea, we just took the opportunity to sit in the window over to see streetscape. Waited for 10 minutes, not moving, he recruited young girl asked, and a look sorry to say that being prepared for us. Next-bench than we do later years, but something to eat meals have begun the meal, and we speculated that because of our spending is too low, by the snub. Butter tea came, Tibetan young girl said just play well, I am drained, in addition to butter flavor and a touch of salty things, ate out the other tastes like. To continue to wait more than 10 minutes, 4 cups sweet tea came at last slowly, dark brown color is like coffee, a good taste, in praise of tea and also did not forget a good waiter is too snobbish critics, see our consumer deliberately neglect the low . Little girl aggrieved and said: "Do not cook so long, not the color of tea lies." Suddenly we came to understand it, Lhasa, 3,600 meters above sea level, the boiling point of water, just over 80 degrees, where the tea is not used to open blisters, but rather out of brick tea cooked a long time.
July 25 overcast with light rain, and is scheduled to go to Namco. Nam Co lake elevation of 4718 meters, an area of 1940 square kilometers, is located in Damxung County in Lhasa City and the counties in Nagqu Ban Ga, known as the Great Lakes is the highest in the world. Tibetan "wrong," namely, Lake Nam Co means "Heaven Lake" is a Tibetan holy lake in mind, every year tens of thousands of believers come to turn Lake pilgrimage. Guidebook warned: "If to Lhasa after the break for less than a week, better not go to Nam Co, rapidly rising 1,100 meters above sea level, prone to altitude sickness." However, we arrived in Lhasa only three days, so are quite obvious response to people (such as an old friend, Wang Gang) have already come to abandon the trip.
7:30 the rain start to the northwest along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, and soon, Lhasa have been left far behind, cars on the gallop in the open wilderness. Appeared in the left side of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway under construction and saw a lot of road construction workers lived in barracks and a lot of construction machinery, engineering progress beyond my imagination, some of the tunnel seems to have already begun to take shape in. And then move forward into the grasslands, along the way neither houses, but also less deserted, only occasionally encountered some grass being grazed sheep and yak. The rainy season in the grassland is full of water, clouds of grass between the exposed water reflection, so vast earth looks very much like a Red Army that year came the big swamp. Way parking, watching, shooting prairie scenery encountered in Tibet People's Liberation Army fleet of 100 vehicles into the wilderness in the open on the dash, one in front of us received a roaring past, when everybody was pleasantly surprised, have rushed Road Edge抢拍this spectacular scene. Guo Yangbajing, the Qinghai-Tibet Highway off to the northeast, along the slope slowly continued to climb, the railway line has shifted to the right of pre-, still accompanied by road forward. This part of the railway embankment is still in the formation stage, scoop up the turf has been neatly yards on the roadside in preparation for the future, backfill, which is the environmental characteristics of the Qinghai-Tibet railway construction. On the left is a stretch of the Nyainqentanglha Snow, roads, and mountains in parallel, it is said whenever he was fine, the Qinghai-Tibet line, the past, visitors can see one another in this area one of the snow-capped mountains, and even a line extension to the distant horizon. But we do not have such good luck, falls to the bottom parts of the cloud and rain is almost filled, snow-capped mountains hiding in thick fog in Jimuyuantiao can only see the constant extension of roads and drizzle in the vast expanse of grassland.
Near noon that when hung, car to accelerate and decelerate, as we all get off the activities, where as it is the county seat, might as well say that a big town, except when Heroman station (in the Qinghai-Tibet line is quite reputable a White House) outside the , we are only a small number of low room. Damxung 4200 meters above sea level, rainy days, the temperature very low, although a mid-summer, but the falling Bingzha rain also mixed with a lot of people frozen wah-wah Zhijiao, coincidentally ran into a roadside shop to purchase warm clothing, high Xiaodong buy 1 robes, immediately put on, I almost put him mistaken for Tibetans.
When hung from the Nam Co to climb Nyainqentanglha, cars turn left away from the Qinghai-Tibet line, open fooled male prairie highway. However, in most cases, the so-called "highway" is only printed rut left by passing vehicles only, which reminds me of Mr. Lu Xun said, as saying: "In fact, the earth had no roads, people walk (car) more, have become a road. " Far ahead to start and crosses, it's still the way of the highland pastures, but with the elevation, lowered the rain gradually increased snow composition. Of about 5400 meters above sea level close to the "Flanagan pull" Pass, the team into a valley between two mountains, mountain's "rain" in this place has become a "sky snow", the surrounding mountains, "Silver Art Su wrapped "look" exceptionally enchanting. " "Flanagan pull" There is a Mani Dui Peak, surrounded by hanging colorful streamer and hada. Car parked in Yakou, we climbed the hills抢拍Piaoman streamer with snow, biting wind burst head descend quickly, coupled with high-altitude, so I feel some difficulty breathing.
Flanagan has been pulling through even turned over Nyainqentanglha, and then you can move all the way downhill, reaching as far Nam Co Lake, and Pando said, we want to go to places that wooden wrong Tashi peninsula. Down the mountain, the weather gradually turned fine, Nongyun dissipated, revealing a blue sky, Nam Co Lake in the distance of the sun shining dazzling light, as it were, kind enough to call us. Around the lakeshore again opened OK for a long time finally came that two high towers of "together in prayer stone" side, which is a sign of Tashi peninsula, it seems that two huge palms together in prayer to heaven are praying for the peace of all sentient beings . Tashi peninsula in the northeast corner of Nam Co is the largest lake in the peninsula, is Namco's most beautiful places: from here to the west overlooking the clear blue water suffused with the distance blue water Haomiao, cloud water connected, it seems is the sea; across Lake south of view, the other side of the white mountain peaks Nyainqentanglha rolling, and the horizon-phase clouds, hazy, hard to tell where is the snow-capped mountains, there are clouds. There are many small Mani Dui shore, although they stacked the lake is only a few stone, but it is to express the wishes of the Tibetans to the gods a way to visit the holy lake of the later ones are the pious predecessors of the Huai a deep respect for no one to touch them from the rubble, so they can be all year round after year to standing at the lake, day after day, keep looking at the snow-capped mountains days Lake, describing the barriers to the spirits of the pious pray, and Shiren OK longing for. The northwest side of the hillside there is a huge 50-meter-long rubble, neatly stacked with thousands of blocks of Mani stones, engraved stone surface winding Tibetan, they all come from distant places, pool pilgrims everywhere those of the afterlife prayer. I walk alone in the lake, broke the ambient air felt thin, close to 4800 meters above sea level, oxygen supply, and only about half of Xiamen, may be the brain of oxygen, the actions and thinking everyone was a little slow, however, mood seems to be unusually calm, serene. The bluest of blue skies, clear lakes, Didi De was short, Baiyun close to the snow-capped mountains, surrounded by 10000 Lai Ju Ji, Ji Si with a little quiet in another mystery, I stood overlooking the lake cloud water phase at the sky, the green, water and fog, unknowingly created a wonderful feeling, as if the sky and the earth has been seamless, from the days have been very close to its own.
Sips of holy lakes of water, the prosecution of the few holy lakes of stone, of course, forget the photo sessions, the crowd have to return car, ready to return to Lhasa Road. After the car talking about the feelings of the Nam Co, Portland-based company's technology development office of Mr Lee said he was walking at the shore to see the high slope, One Tibetan woman, Shu Sleeve Dance, curious and take a look at, has been came close to not only find that the "Tibetan Women", but the bright streamer is a Mani Dui wind Piaowu. Everyone says he met Nam Co Lake, Fairy, Pando said that next year the Tibetan Year of the Goat, and numerous angel to meet "Heaven Lake", therefore, Namco has always been the best choice for pilgrimage Year of the Goat, to the There will be a large number of Tibetans from all over flock to "Heaven Lake", Mr Lee and if you might really be able to meet him miss the "fairy."
Turn the Okanagan La Pass, once again onto Damxung grassland, the way the blue sky Bicao, thick clouds lifeless down on the horizon, picturesque scenery. I was intoxicated by the beauty of eyes, despite the intense car bumps, with maximum aperture and 1 / 1000 sec speed,抢拍of the few beautiful grassland Cloud. The Damxung County town back on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the days, overcast and it began to rain, the road back to Lhasa again, after the famous Nyainqentanglha peak (7162 meters), snow-capped mountains are still hiding in the thick fog, only a giant Mani Dui standing all alone in the vast grassland, it shows us the location of the holy mountains. Colorful sutra streamers fluttering in the wind and rain, unwilling to see the people Nyainqentanglha peak quietly slip away from us.
Day trip, wherever he went the lowest elevation of Lhasa (3600 meters), the maximum is phenergan La Pass (5400 meters), the obvious reaction to the altitude appear on our return from the Nam Co, was about to climb Mt nyainqentanglha time. Should you request, Pando let the car pull in the Okanagan grasslands pass the following pause, there have been very far away from the Nam Co, around Nyainqentanglha Mountains Zhu Feng (5000 meters above sea level are all above) also looks Block of the hill like a pack. Off events, we say a little headache, Chen Wei said that from his body's reaction, on the ground here, the less there are 4900 meters above sea level. Headache, feeling has always been with us for a reach "YBJ", the Qinghai-Tibet line where there is a clear downhill, too, "Yangbajain" after, everyone said that the first does not hurt, "Yangbajain" the altitude (3,800 meters ) and the Lhasa similar, it seems that we have all the "Lhasa group".
July 26 Yin, starting as early as 7:30 to Nyingchi. Nyingchi less than 3,000 meters above sea level, known as Tibet's Jiangnan's reputation, especially in rouland mountain pastures, where there are tourist brochure on the Namjagbarwa 7782 meters above sea level (the world's 15th peak) and the elevation of 7294 meters of the gala White base peak, snow-capped mountains, forests and grassland coexistence, Pine mountain, sheep everywhere, known as China, Switzerland, Tibet, OK this is what I most aspire to place. Provisional driving before, Pando suddenly called off, our tour guide replaced by central pull. Yang graduated from Beijing Foreign Languages Institute pulling mother is Tibetan and Han Chinese father, and her name is Yang Han. Announced after the central one way or another car, today's trip about 590 km, driving more than eight hours, has been open to the rouland, and then return to Nyingchi County, 81 towns, pristine Nyingchi guesthouse.
出拉萨后，沿318国道（川藏公路南线）向东，汽车一路飞驰，周围环境与昨天的藏北草原完全不同，到处是郁郁葱葱的青山，很像是福建的山区，但景观更为粗旷、原始，放眼所见多是开着各色野花的草滩和灌木，偶尔才能见到几座藏民的小房和不大的青稞田。拉萨至林芝路段的最高点是米拉山，海拔5020米，从地图上看，沿途应经过达孜和墨竹工卡两座县城，但车行一路居然没有遇到任何可被我确信为是“县城”的建筑群，西藏之落后由此可见一斑。爬上米拉山后，汽车在山口稍停，大家下车观景拍照。坐在车上时尚觉一切正常，但下车活动后就感到有点气短，看来，五千米的海拔已接近我的容忍极限了。路旁的玛尼堆上挂满经幡和哈达，央拉说：“经幡也叫风马旗，它有红、黄、蓝、白、绿五种颜色，分别代表五种自然元素。其中，红色是火，黄色是土地，蓝色代表天空，白色代表白云，绿色是河流。有的经幡上还写着表达吉祥平安的经文，风吹经幡飘动，藏民对天神的虔诚就会随风轻扬，飞向世界的每个角落。”
翻过米拉山就算进入了林芝地界，汽车开始下行，植被更加茂盛，景色也越发地美丽。不久，公路旁出现了蜿蜒的尼洋河，车子在平整的公路上沿河飞奔，尼洋河是雅鲁藏布江的支流，她的下游地区就是我们要去的林芝。然而，倒霉的事又一次降临，在快到工布江达时，迎面来车带来了坏消息，“前方出现塌方，去林芝的道路已被封闭”。闻讯后，我们这一车人都坚持要向前开到塌方处，亲自确定一下是否真的不能通过，但会议领导集团所乘的“头车”担心返拉萨的路被后面赶上来的车辆堵塞，决定抓紧时间立即掉头，返回拉萨，我的“中国瑞士”之梦也只好中止于林芝边境地区的尼洋河畔。
返程路上，我们都不甘心西藏之行就这样划上句号，特别是高晓冬和吉林大学的吴通好等几个还自费带家属来藏的人，央拉答应向领导反映。快到拉萨时，她的手机传来了领导的决定，今天给我们临时加一个“色拉寺”游，观摩喇嘛辩经。藏传佛教格鲁派（黄教）在拉萨有三座最大的寺庙，即：哲蚌寺、色拉寺和甘丹寺，统称为拉萨三大寺。色拉寺在拉萨北郊的色拉山上，是三大寺中最后建立的，现以辩经活动闻名，每逢周一至周六的下午三点都要辩经。辩经是僧人的日常功课，他们可以通过这种方式不断提高自己在众僧中的地位，直至获得最崇高的“格西”学位。我们到达色拉寺时，辩经活动早已开始，辩经院绿树成荫，僧人席地而坐，这时，若有人站起来猛击一掌向坐着的某僧人发问，这就意味着一对一的辩经已经开始，两人一问一答，问的严肃，答的紧张，答出来则喜笑颜开，答不出或答错都要挨罚。辩经院分前、后两院，前院是低级别喇嘛的活动场所，后院都是高级喇嘛。潘多认识后院中的一位喇嘛，据说只有三十多岁，但看上去要老得多，已钻研佛学二十余年，明天就要参加争取最高学位的答辩。经潘多介绍后，大家争着向他提出问题并要求合影留念，他都来者不拒，我也凑上去拍了一张。由于前几年“雪山狮子旗”风波的影响，目前拉萨寺庙中的气氛仍不正常，较大的寺庙中均有当局派驻的工作组，负责监督喇嘛们的行为，辩经活动也只准在各寺庙内部组织，不准在寺庙间辩经，每年一次的大昭寺辩经（各寺的喇嘛都要来参加）已被禁多年，以防喇嘛们搞大串联。我觉得西藏的主要问题是藏民把希望都寄托在“来生”，共产党对他们的“来生”鞭长莫及，而“保证来生幸福”却又正是达赖喇嘛（号称观音菩萨转世）的特长，所以，要根本解决西藏的问题，只有加快提高藏民的生活水平，使他们能够看到今生的希望，把注意力都集中在今生。
从色拉寺出来，又到拉萨藏医学院参观。说是参观，其实就是旅游购物，学院内有一间藏医药展览馆，推销藏药，其运作方式与内地旅游区的药材购物点大同小异，但在做法上要委婉一些，内地导游往往是强行将游客带往购物点，这里的导游只是介绍情况和劝说，然后由我们自己决定是否上钩。我本已下定决心什么都不买，但经不起同伴们购物热情的熏陶，最终也买了一个羚羊角，准备留给日后的孙子用。潘多等人站在一旁非常激动地看着我们购物，估计她们也会从中获益匪浅。
7月27日临时安排羊卓雍湖一日游，导游仍是潘多。由于高原反应，我们这支队伍已减员近半，只开出了两部中巴。我在成都买的“红景天”已吃完，王伟指点我到饭店医务室去做体检，虽然没查出问题（血液中不缺氧），但为保险起见，还是向医生买了两包“高原安”（他极力推荐）服用，这至少在心理上也会是个安慰。羊湖海拔4441米，面积648平方公里，位于拉萨与江孜之间，距拉萨100公里，与雅鲁藏布江仅隔一座岗巴拉山。
汽车离开拉萨，过曲水大桥，沿雅鲁藏布江西行，不久后即折向南方，进入岗巴拉山区。天空阴沉沉的，开始下起小雨，周围群山云遮雾绕，路边树木青翠欲滴，但不知为何在这样的环境中居然还会遇到一座大沙丘，西藏的神奇真是让人捉摸不透。开始翻越岗巴拉山，公路坡陡弯急，汽车经常在险峻的山岭间盘旋，这是我进藏所遇最陡峭的道路。沿途见到许多挤满藏民的车辆，有的卡车还装满了货物，乘客就坐在高高的货堆顶上，在山路的颠簸中摇摇晃晃地前进，看上去极其危险，毫无交通规则可言，然而，这就是西藏。这些人是要赶赴阿里地区岗仁布钦山朝圣的信徒，据说岗仁布钦（冈底斯山脉的主峰）是天上诸神在藏历马年聚会的场所，今年正是马年，人们相信今年转“岗仁布钦”一圈就相当于在平常年份转山十三圈。登山路云雾弥漫，一直下着小雨，土石路面泥泞不堪，沿途多次遇到堵车，长长的车队摆放在险峻山崖上。到达公路的最高点后，汽车钻出云层，大家下车拍照。又是一座巨大的玛尼堆，五彩经幡和洁白的哈达迎风飞舞，好像是在宣告：“这里是我们的圣地，这里离天神最近，这里的文明已有数千年的历史……”。遥望远处的山岗，可以看见一座白色圆球状的雷达罩，那就是世界最高的岗巴拉雷达站，雷达兵们长年就驻守在这样艰苦的环境中。山顶上还有一块牌子，上面写着“岗巴拉山海拔4850米”。我花五元钱骑上藏民的牦牛，在牌子旁摆着POSE拍了一张靓照。高高的岗巴拉山脊阻档云层，形成了奇特的阴阳界景观，山北侧是茫茫的云海，山南侧却不见一丝云雾，美丽的羊湖就展现在眼前。羊卓雍错在藏语中是天鹅湖的意思，也是西藏三大圣湖之一，从地理上说是高原堰塞湖，它的水源是周围雪山的融雪。我站在山上，美景尽收眼底，羊湖弯出一个巨大的弧形，宛如一条缎带围绕着群山，婀娜地伸向远方，消逝在连绵的山峦之中。湛蓝的湖水宁静安详，西边远处可以看见层层的雪山，其中有一座特别显眼，司机说它是宁金抗沙峰，意思是“夜叉神居住的高贵雪山”。
翻过山脊后，汽车一路颠簸下降到湖边，潘多立即跑去喝圣湖的水，我也跟上去喝了几口，味道淡淡的，好像还有一点甜味。西藏的三大圣湖我造访了两个（另一个在阿里），它们的景色完全不同：那木错一片荒芜，天上没飞鸟，地上无人迹，放眼所见只是雪山、赤岩、蓝天、白云，显得神秘兮兮；羊卓雍错则不同，湖畔有一些小村落，农田里生长着绿油油的青稞，盛开着金黄色的油菜花，水面上不时有各种水鸟掠过，岸边还有一座码头，停靠着几艘柴油动力的小船，显得颇有生活气息。在湖边拍照，高晓冬因为身穿藏袍，成了大家的模特，争着找他合影，为的是能在圣湖边留下与“藏胞”相聚的纪念。潘多在一旁看了发笑，我责怪她不穿藏装，否则与大家合影的模特就不会是一位假藏胞，她答应明天送我们去机场时一定会换上藏袍。
乘车向卡若拉冰川进发，弯弯曲曲的羊湖一直伴随着我们前进，这一带雨水丰沛，水草繁茂，是天然的牧场。途中不时可见成群的山羊在湖边吃草，西藏的羊好像也与内地的羊有所不同，它们都身披长长的绒毛，头上长着尖尖的长角，显得很漂亮。有的羊还披红挂绿，潘多说这是被放生的羊，它们身担主人向天神许下的某种诺言，可以一直活到老死，永远不会被主人宰杀。途经浪卡子，县城就座落在公路的右侧，“浪卡子”在藏语中意为“白色的鼻尖”，县城海拔4454米，面积1.5平方公里，人口千余人，有银行、商店、邮电、饭店等设施，在西藏算是一座大县，然而，我远远地只能看见几座三、四层高的楼房，西藏的大县也就不过如此而已。过浪卡子后，羊湖逐渐退出了视野，道路越走越高，汽车驶入一条山谷。天下着小雨，雨水加上冰川融水生成小溪，聚成小河，流淌到公路旁，形成汹涌浑浊的奔流泥水。前行不远，路面上出现了用石块堆起的路障，迎面开来一部拖拉机，车上的人说前面的路已被洪水冲断，叫我们回头。大家不死心，下车搬开石头继续向前，不久就到达了出事地点，只见三分之二的路面被洪水冲垮，汽车无法继续前进了。但不幸中的万幸是卡若拉冰川已在这里露出一角，浓雾笼罩的两座雪峰间延伸下一条巨大的冰舌，它好象离我们并没多远，司机说这是小冰川，只能隔河相望，前面五公里处还有一条大冰川，规模比梅里雪山的明永冰川还大，游人可以一直走到冰川上，我鼓动大家步行前往，但是无人响应，只得隔河拍了几张照片，算是曾经到此一游的见证。
返程天空逐渐放晴，沿路欣赏晴空下的湖光山色，羊湖的汊口较多，湖岸蜿蜒曲折，平如镜面的湖水忽近忽远地在我们的眼前游荡，岸边山坡上芳草戚戚，绿树成荫，途经一藏族村落时还见到一处漂亮的湖滨草甸，翠绿的青草地上开满各色的野花，附近还有大片金黄色的油菜田，使我再次感受到羊卓雍错与那木错景观的差异。羊湖还有“西藏鱼库”之称，盛产高原特有的无鳞鱼和裂腹鱼，途经一个汊口时见到有人赤手空拳下湖捉鱼，不一会就扔上岸十几条，每条鱼都有尺把长，但这位朋友只是好事而已，并不是真的想要捉鱼吃，我们不忍心看着鱼儿白白死去，大家动手把它们又扔回水中。
再次翻越岗巴拉山，山北侧的云海已变成晴空下的白云朵朵，汽车穿云下山，我故技重演，又利用高速度和大光圈在剧烈的颠簸中拍下了漂亮的云景。回到雅鲁藏布江边，汽车沿江疾驶，柏油公路笔直向前，路边树木忽闪而过，江水欢快地流淌着，远处的雪山在阳光下发出耀眼的光芒。过曲水大桥时本想停车拍照，但潘多说这是被禁止的，因为躲在印度的达赖集团经常派人回藏搞破坏，曲水大桥是他们的重点爆破目标，所以有武警日夜巡逻守卫，不准任何车辆在桥上停留。
六点多钟回到拉萨饭店，西藏游到此结束，回想起来，此次进藏基本上可算“不虚此行”，然而，“憾事”也确有几件，诸如去当雄没能看见念青唐古拉雪峰、赴林芝遇到塌方、卡若拉冰川只看到一角、罗布林卡近在眼前却一直无缘光顾，总之，到西藏来要有随遇而安的心态，不要坚持一定要去哪里，只能是“可以走到哪儿，就算哪儿！”，不要强调一定要看到什么，只能是“能看到啥，就算啥！”。但愿日后还能有机会再来藏，也许会是携子同游。
7月28日匆匆吃了早饭，立即去贡嘎机场，潘多果然穿上藏袍来送，大家都在机场门口与她合影。办登机时我又要了一个靠窗的位子，希望这次能看到雪山。起飞时是晴天，宽阔的雅鲁藏布江一览无余，拍到几张颇佳的风景照，然而，好运不长，没飞多久又遇到阴天，窗外景观除白云外什么都没有。接近成都时云雾开始消散，有几座雪山钻出云层，这大概就是“西岭雪山”了，我终于在即将降落前在飞机上看到“窗含西岭千秋雪”的美景。魏正森与他大儿子到机场接，把我送到岷山饭店附近的“华能电力培训中心”，标间170元/天，新装修的，条件还不错。在楼下餐厅吃完饭后游杜甫草堂，拍了几张照片，还在“草堂”门前与正森合影。晚饭是火锅，正宗的川味，吃得很满意，由魏公子埋单。魏正森说，他已试探性的把公司交给儿子掌管，给他月薪5000元（魏正森自己只领四千元月薪），但儿子仍想出国，至今尚未下决心接好老爸的班。晚上打电话与希宁表弟取得联系。
7月29日早魏正森来宾馆接我赴青城山游玩，青城山是道教名山，素有“青城天下幽”的美誉，距成都70公里，位于都江堰市西南15公里。汽车走“成灌高速公路”到都江堰，下高速后又向西开行，不久即到达青城山，司机留在山下，正森陪我上山。时间已近中午，一进山门就觉得肚子饿，在福建宫附近找一餐馆用膳，青城山的道家名菜是“白果炖鸡”，但服务员说今天没有鸡，只得改吃“白果炖猪蹄膀”，味道淡淡的，其实并不好吃。饭后两人决定不乘索道，徒步登山，按照地图选定了“建福宫”至“天然图画”、至“五洞天”、至“天师洞”、再至“上清宫”的路线，决心一直爬到青城山顶（海拔1260米）的老君阁，不到顶峰非好汉。山路两旁古木参天，浓荫覆地，更为难得的是游人稀少，大多数时间只有我和魏正森两人在行走，实实在在地体会到了“青城天下幽”的意境。两人边走边谈，走够了就坐下休息，休息够了再慢慢前进，因此，虽然是徒步，但一点都不觉得累。快到上清宫时，在一座山间小亭中巧遇“藏胞”吴通好（吉林大学）一家，他们是乘索道上山的，下山后还要赶赴都江堰，然后还要去乐山和娥眉山。上清宫位于青城山的半山，再往上爬就到青城山的最高点老君阁了。我们到达山顶时忽然下起小雨，四周雾气弥漫，迷蒙中的老君阁仿佛是飘浮在浓浓的云雾中，真好像是到了太上老君的仙界。
乘索道下山，魏正森用手机招来了司机和汽车，回到成都时已是晚上，魏还想请我吃晚饭，但被我劝阻，因为他家住得很远，我劝他早点回家。晚饭后希宁夫妇携子到宾馆来，希宁是大舅的长子，以正的哥哥，我与他40余年未见，虽然年少时都住在北京，但当时他年龄太小，不能与我玩在一起，所以对他没什么印象，这次见面我觉得他长得很像大舅。希宁好像是华西医科大学的公共卫生学教研室主任，夫人是“心血管外科”杂志的主编，谈话中得知北京301医院的李功宋是她们杂志的编委，当即拨通北京的电话，让他们两人也拉上了亲戚关系。希宁一家告别后，因时间尚早，独自出去逛夜市，买了一个仿古的青铜酒杯。
7月30日早饭后稍事休息，然后打的赴机场，厦航8402航班机11:55起飞，15:20回到厦门。
作者：1020222782
