A human being. Backpack. Northwest
Does not take an unusual road, Gadjo dilo
---- Taken from a description of the northwest travel guide
Everyone will have a dream, but unfortunately most of these dreams in the real environment were always rain blew down. But my heart, there is a small dream of the past few years has not been rain and wind to go, but more and more clear. This dream is a man backpack trip north-west. Why is a person, not only because now or isolated, but also because of 20 years no one has traveled alone to a distant ... ... ... .. I have not been local and have been to places, like there are still many, but I still choose the Northwest, because home is located in the southeast, in the opposite direction of the north-west of the I have a fascinating magic; but also because a large part of the heyday of Chinese history started here, where you can see the moon during the Qin, Han Dynasty can be seen off when the mountain, you can see the rise and fall of numerous dynasties honor, you can see the tyranny of kings, service workers and the people of the great bitter.
I finally had to wait until such an opportunity, with nearly half a month's holiday in the south or the swallows in the beam between the昵furans Rhapsody, HP PDA, SONY DC, compass, all placed in backpack accompanied me start a.
A lot of the northwest province of Shaanxi, Gansu, Xinjiang, Qinghai and Ningxia, a total of five provinces, I went to the road made prior to the general arrangement, Xian (Huashan, walls, and terracotta figures hole of History, Big Wild Goose Pagoda Plaza) , Gansu (Dunhuang and Jiayuguan), Qinghai (Tar and Qinghai Lake), Yinchuan (Helan Mountains, Western Xia Imperial Tombs, movie, and Sand Lake).
A person's journey, we must long period of walking, in the end decided that the time being not to Gansu, as a matter of time (I was only close to half a month's holiday, if it still wants to leave the last two or three days rest, then, and only 12 days or so, which is April 23 to May 5), but also because I Dunhuang murals and sculptures does not have any knowledge of, or left to go along with the next, and Xinjiang.
After the tour route, to be in there a Huashan problem is on the go or in front, on the back go? Because if the trip starts to go is almost 24, the Lunar sixth days is certainly not the bright moonlight night, and if come back until May 3 climb Mountain, just 15, when the moon illuminated the Huashan sure beautiful. A friend advised me not to climb during the journey and the beginning of the Mountain, or after 10 days of the journey there would be no body of it? But I finally decided on the 24th to climb Huashan, because so many people during the 51 unsafe, there is another reason for this is the first bitter sweet, climbed them Huashan, if not get on the ground, after which the journey will be more Easy.
Well, nonsense has been said too much, I decided to return K178 Yinchuan, Beijing-bound train was starting.
On the road has been long Feiniaohuoyu empty on my luggage a thing I love the wind blown my miss my birds to go fish my silence in the desert
... ...
- Animal husbandry were a cloud. On the road really do not understand why I use this poem as a prelude to the road, perhaps the beginning of each journey will have had a empty feeling.
"The kids, you come from, we should go there ah?" In the K178 Yinchuan to Beijing, the train, I was struggling with a carrying a big luggage compartment on the 14th just go to my shop No. 3, next to a middle-aged man and a young woman had been sitting a little lower berth sleeper bed, a look of the old man has experienced many vicissitudes of this middle-aged man said, obviously he was on the train than we were before. That middle-aged man smiled, obviously not very satisfied with this call, "I came to give as gifts." "Grandpa, you also look like some 50-year-old, if yes, how do we call the children?", I think it looks like the elderly uncle, should be a knowledgeable person, so I chipped in a. "You are the children do!." That young woman wearing a cheongsam, speaking voice is very gentle, readily took one of Shakespeare's plays, although the skin is not very good (a lot of people are making the north-west), there is a kind of oriental women, creating tranquility amongst beautiful. I think if the film gave her a black and white photos, photos of Zhang Ailing and 30 years will certainly compare the feeling of a bit similar. She said she was Yinchuan who work in Beijing, in Fujian Province before moving a year and a half, went to Fuzhou, Xiamen and Quanzhou, and feels great. If not for a business trip, she said that life might have not have thought about a trip to Fujian Province. Hear people praise their own home, and my heart is always thus elatedly of the Hehe.
A few young men in Beijing this time is that they came out with 78 individuals, shops do not together, a portion of Shop No. 3,4, part of Shop No. 7, Shop No. 7, they want a few other people's seat adjustment over, Grandpa and I said that we must change, and we paid heed to shop for No. 3 on the 7th to the shop. Ye Hao time is around 17:00 pm from the rest's early yet? Zhe Xiake a good chat with, and uncle, and I always felt he was a story of people. Grandpa was a man of Xinjiang, in the government sector.
"The old man, you must walk in many places, and this time come from A"
"I'm starting from Xinjiang, Ningxia, transfer to Beijing to see my son, the Beijing SARS then, I have slowly come along and see if the situation returns to Buxing Le, but now Beijing SARS, or those few people, does not matter, and A child you come from? "
"I came out very early, 23 to Xi'an in Xi'an, turning four days, and then go to Qinghai to stop three days, went to Yinchuan spent four days"
"The kids, Xi'an marvelous! Have gone to where Ah!"
"To Xi'an, I most want to go is the Huashan, then walls, then the hole of the and the Terra Cotta Warriors, Shaanxi Provincial History Museum and then, finally, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, these places are all gone, I also went to the wall twice, once on foot, one was riding a bicycle. Huaqing Pool did not go, Concubine Yang of the bath there is no good place to go, A Fanggong site did not go, burn reconstruction of the building is not feeling. Taibai wanted to climb mountains, but the feet Buxing Liao, and time is not enough "
"Yes, Huashan go, and the main attractions are also gone, Taibai the mountains rather than in Xi'an, Baoji, is the Kunlun Mountains in a vein, the Kunlun Mountains called Nanshan, Xi'an, Nanshan Zhongnanshan means to an end here, at the end it? Shaanxi Provincial History Museum is China's best museums in A, can, and she may only have a ratio of the National Palace Museum, is not should take a look at "
"Shaanxi Provincial History Museum is a good place ah, but we are a lot of people may not know, to see there are a half was a foreigner! You came from Xinjiang, Gansu and Ningxia along the way through, certainly through the Qilian Mountains, and it seems that some Chinese where the ancient poems written in the Tianshan is said to refer to the Qilian Mountains, rather than you Xinjiang Tianshan "
"Yes, the ancients did not aerial equipment, the Qilian and Tianshan considered to be connected together, that is there. The original 'days' in an old saying where is the time to do 'qian' a, 'qi lian', 'Qi' in consonant and "Even" the finals together, not that qian do, it is also the Tianshan Qilian Mountain. When the Chinese Tianshan not all poetry is the Qilian Mountains, great poet Cen Shen been to Xinjiang, there is a historical record. He is a real pen Tianshan Tianshan the. "
Shortly before the train arrived in Inner Mongolia, Ningxia's territory, I am reminded of the previous has been troubling me a question: "Huns in the early Han Dynasty used to be so strong, the early Han Dynasty basically adopted a defensive policy against the Huns. Han Wu Di, of the Huns turn taken the offensive against the Huns, under the strong gradual decline of the Han dynasty, this year the boundaries of the Huns is not present inside and outside the scope of Mongolia do? Hun decline later go? "
"The Huns, the ancients referred to as Hu, 'but makes Dragon fly in, do not teach the barbarian degree Yinshan', this refers to the Huns Hu, in Inner Mongolia is one of the Yinshan mountains. Xiongnu the beginning known as the" Xian Yun "(sound : risk-yun), "Xian Yun", "Xian" in consonant and "Yun" and similar vowel vowel "iong" synthetic "Xiong", originally called the "Hungarian", was later added to the slave, the dynasty Chinese look down on the border national or foreign, so in 'Hungary' behind the addition of a 'slave' the word that low status people. "Xian Yun" radical anti-dog next to the This is the meaning. Britain is also said to the original Chinese characters on the left in Britain added an anti-dog beside that people are animals, wild animals do not inflow. Hun its heyday, mainly in Gansu and Ningxia in some areas, Mongolia (including today's Inner Mongolia and Outer Mongolia) activities in the area. Xiongnu decline Later, the rise of other ethnic minorities, such as Xianbei, so Huns or westward (near the Central Asia as far away as Europe), or be stranded in grasslands, through marriage, annexation, succumbing, moving gradually integrated into the final form of the other ethnic groups. "
"Young man, what kind of work do you do ah?" At this time Grandpa suddenly asked me, do not call me a child.
"I was engaged in technical work"
"Today's young people, like you know so much of human knowledge, not many people? What do you think you know these things work for you there is no effect (the benefits)?"
"I understand not many, but interested in fills that would affect, I think a lot of things are subtle, difficult to say clearly that"
... ... ... ... ... ... .... Sleeping time, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ....
The next morning, "Eileen Chang" to our shop before the bench and sat down, I began to hear her gentle voice.
"Now very few like to see pure literature, how do you see go on!"
"That I might just belong to those relatively few number of people bar" finished she just laughed.
"How do you come out of a person ah! One person out of the road would be more boring!" Turn she asked me.
"I always wanted a man out of time, because there is no companion, on the road will encounter many people from far apart have different experiences of the companion, it is a completely different experience. There are eight students in Xi'an, I was accompanied by Climbing Huashan, there is also a backpack out of people to travel to Shanghai and the boy and I went to see the hole of terracotta warriors and horses, as well as Chongqing, a girl and I ride a tandem bicycle together to the wall. to Qinghai encountered two Taiyuan and 2 a Zhengzhou friends, and go and Qinghai Lake, I had only one person would like to travel alone in the feelings of loneliness and solitude, did not expect along the way encountered a lot of interesting friends and fun thing. "
The train to Beijing soon, I have less to stay in Beijing, the aircraft will be transferred back to Fujian and the north-west of the trip is over, each time quietly recalls scenes are also slowly slowly stretch in my eyes.
Dream dimly, but it was the moon when the Qin, Han Guan Shan!
It evaporates at the lights, Nagqu riverside banquet,
That waterside Lady, then laugh when the clay spring touring Hu Ji stays a long time is issued for circulation
Still be able to fully loaded, kept trained on thoughts
Back to our story of Chang Sheng!
2 Xi'an
23, left the afternoon, westbound first stop was Xi'an, Xianyang airport from the plane is already a night bus ride to the bell tower of civil aviation. They pass through an overpass, overpasses, under the lights to shine like a golden dragon, as if to tell this to people in Xianyang is a dragon Huju land. Miss crew is very enthusiastic introduction to the Xi'an, of course, inevitable to mention the best accommodation and tourism. I said I'm going to Western Electric House shelter, I said I was last year's younger brother had just graduated from Western Electric. She said she is also a graduate of Western Electric, I had a sudden intimacy. I said you can not go to Huashan to go at night, she said it was something a long time ago, and since the rope has been since very few people on the evening of the Mountain climb. Her company, Mountain Travel organized day trips, as long as 260 yuan, including sitting down on a rope 110 per ticket. I do not know what she said was true or false because the rope was not repaired this year, but I know that some people still climb in the evening. After the bell tower and get off a taxi to the west of electricity, found my brother, a fellow in West to study electrical and power on the street in the West simply to eat a bit for dinner, a dish a soup bowl of rice 10 money, and vegetables weight is enough, you can imagine Xi'an consumption is not very expensive. Villagers said that the evening just two days ago and some students to climb over the Mountain and promised to help me ask. Because of this trip was too hasty, two hours before his departure are still working overtime, as fled in panic, like, physically and mentally a bit tired, up very late the next day at noon, and fellow dinner, he helped what I have learned, he is a classmate night climb, and climb a lot of people, from the beginning 23:00 at night to climb takes about 6 hours so you can climb Higashimine to watch the sunrise.
24 Shortly after, a friend teach you in Xian Hui Street and walls. Muslims in the street in the strings and Liang Pi ate lamb, mutton string of a string of five cents, taste can be, Liang Pi would not flattered, and may not be suitable for southerners stomach bar. Street Muslims to go out by bus from the south gate of the walls, the wall south gate tickets 10 yuan, the Chinese and English tour guide at the entrance there is the record button, you can play listen to the walls of the profile. Know that the wall was built in the Ming Chao, in the Tang Dynasty on the basis of the construction of walls made of. But I still do not understand all the Ming Dynasty was founded in Nanjing and later moved the capital to Beijing, Xi'an, why would they build such a complete circuit of walls? Foot wall, 10 meters high, it should be about four lanes wide. Ancient city wall color of Health fragrance for a breeze blowing in the morning and evening under the sunset afterglow, walking and cycling are the best choice. To see than I imagine the tall and wide walls, forget the night they still climb Huashan began walking the city wall. From the South Gate entrance up to the towers, the east has come to an end, I actually spent more than two hours of time. Down play from the east gate to the railway station square, ready to ride to the Mountain. Station Square, there are state-run buses to Huashan, fares 20 yuan, travel two hours or so, people filled the open. Would like to climb at 19:30 Huashan friend recommended to do prior to the railway station square car usually has a vehicle. Take the train can also be, but more troublesome, because the train can Xi'an to Huashan to Huayin, but also their own by car to get to the foot of Yuquan Huashan Hospital, it is recommended not to take the train, trouble.
Got in and started sitting in the back seat, looking around the faces, not finding the appropriate chat object. Look at the front next to the driver's seat empty, we moved to the front to do. At this time up the two little boys who look like students, found that he is also a chat in Fujian, and the other one is in Hunan, is Xijing University students, too many people afraid of 51, in time for the 51 pre-climb Huashan. Right next to the six students who know they are in chat, Shaanxi University of Finance and the. Why climb at night to talking, I said, very simple: "First, since ancient times, Huashan Road, one evening, only climbing up, who do not down people feel more rods; second, climbing the worst, inevitably sweating at night relatively low temperatures to climb, not easy to sweat; third night, of course, to climb in the morning just to Higashimine can see the sunrise; last night of course, sinister wind high, a lot of things can not see, she does not feel so dangerous Oh !. " Everyone feels justified, so that with a good climb Huashan, along the way Shuiyuexiaoxiao quickly to the edge of Huashan Hospital at the foot of Yuquan a comprehensive restaurant. Rest for a while, drink water, and then began to prepare pack. First Mountain map, a money one, you can look at the sights along the way, in fact, do not see anything at night, these spots can act as a docking station; gloves are a must, climb Huashan many places are dangerous, to both hands clutching iron chain, do not buy gloves, I'm sorry our own hands; flashlight is also necessary, because the mountains there is no street lamps, 24-day Shang Xianyue not bright, at least with a few people together it is necessary; there is a buying point to add energy things and water, climb Huashan a long time, it is consuming body, many people buy a Red Bull, but I do not like cattle, bought a box of ginseng tablet; the mountain of water more expensive, it is recommended to buy two bottles of mineral water; The final step is to point Small snacks trunks of most trees milk tablets, jellies and the like, in order to rest when there is nothing to do; recommendation to buy bottles of Double pot or too white wine like liquor, with the alcohol on the Mountain came to show the pride, which are equipped with, if we could you are wearing sports shoes or cloth shoes and carrying the shoulders backpack (I had not bought shoulders backpack, carrying a shoulder bag up the hill, miserable ah), then congratulations to you, almost to the things that you have brought with Qi had. Rest to 23:00, you can set off.
Yuquan Hospital did not take a few steps from the road, they arrive at the mountain's entrance, where we bought tickets, each 70 yuan, 60 yuan student tickets. Walk moment later, it was felt that an occasional light rain began to drift off point. It seems likely to rain today Deng Hua Shan, and it is more dangerous, but finally come to a trip, we can not give up easily, and only pray for opening the eyes of God. April 24 is the sixth days of the evening, even with the moon when the moon is still a child, can not see the "moon among pine photos, springs stone upstream" of the scenery everywhere the dark, but finally due to 51 on the eve of , mountaineering are very many flashlight light scattered, the idea is so lonely Huashan is not necessary. Walking for about twenty minutes, we embarked on a trail into the mountains. Path paved with stone, winding Yishanbangshui and build. To go for a while will feel tough, the original Road looks like this flat is actually a slow-slope, slowly upward. Climbing felt hot, but also the feeling of the wind outside was cold, I was wearing short-sleeved, feeling heat outside the cold fear that they will Ougan cold, then I wasted on the trip back, they still added a long-sleeved.
Peers are young people who are 10 years of negative heavy burden, there are five or six pounds less, but the way Shuishuoxiaoxiao, for the first time to climb Huashan, there is a sense of conquest, who is also to be outdone, we knew we has gone through a "fish stone", "five miles off", "Shihmen", "Mao female hole" and the Cloud Gate, to the stone Rhodobryum roseum. The sights along the way before all the lighting and commissary, food, drink, use, and varied, ranging. Shopkeepers are dressed in military coat, up at night. However, these stores do not want to imagine the kind-hearted, if you have a rest not to buy things, he will drive you go. Some shops in order to give you more to stay for a bite to eat, will "false military intelligence", for example, there are four hours before the Dongfeng, he would say only take a few more than 1 hours on that to you more to sit for a while, or to the Dongfeng premature to be very cold. Along the way we have had one or two spots on the rest look at the beginning, we all climb quickly, I advise you not to climb too fast, because the journey is too far away, in front of too much physical exertion, is not sustainable long-term, it should be steady and . In one of the attractions about five miles off, accompanied by Xiao Mu began to eat a bowl of Liangpi store. Finished Liang Pi, originally Jianbu like a champ, she began to keep up with the pace we finally decided to pull her little handsome guy Xiao Huang 1. Lasts more than an hour passed, Xiao Mu only began to recover. Hehe you Mix, Do not eat and drink on the way to climb Huashan Oh!
Say "Rhodobryum roseum stone." Huashan said of people on to here, will, stamina will be subjected to the test, if there, "Rhodobryum roseum" not crawl and you still have time. To "Rhodobryum roseum stone", the flat end of the route, and move forward climb, "Qianchi blocks" and "continuing success Gap" to go back and think about it is not easy. Wind increasingly large body Rehan has been blown dry, cold, whole body trembled, we spare sweater, coat a piece brought out to the body kits, still can not resist the cold, it seems the only way is to mountain climbing, hiking, or mountain climbing.
"Qianchi buildings" is a big crack on the cliff, I need to climb the 370-level in order to reach the peak. Here, the gloves come into play. Climb "Qianchi blocks of the" middle can only be grasped with both hands on both sides of the locks and practice, but difficult, almost vertical, upward climb, it seems this is the so-called "Huashan road since ancient times," the. Because the stone steps here and elsewhere, not the same, very narrow, barely able to sideways down a foot, above that person's foot is almost standing on that person's head below the climb. Plus everyone in the climbing pace is not consistent, often can not, the next can not come only stiff where it is. At this time I brought dry milk tablets come into play, while nutrient supply points, while climbing, is used to relieve the "stalemate." Thought of Chen Zi-ang's "Neither the front nor the ancients, who, after not see to read a heaven and earth has passed, but tears Cang alone," I hope so much this time around the elderly, no one has a few meters, it is how ah life happily. However, I then can only pre-see "the ancients" the soles of the feet, after seeing "to persons" head, the leisurely read Qianchi buildings dilemma, single-Cang, however, an old man in tears almost. After a Qianchi buildings is accomplished by folder, its dangerous buildings are not under the Qianchi, here is an elevation of more than 1.6 thousand meters above. After a hundred feet caught in the wau Taiwan, rest, drink a Double pot, suddenly warm current rise in my heart, in the next climb, there was the chest while its own soul-stirring sense of wonder the great novels of Jin Yong Xia is an alcoholic, the original because they often practice climbing out at night.
The next most difficult way to go is "black dragon's Mill." "Black dragon Ridge" at the foot of a photo shoot Unfortunately, Ye Taihei, only shoot a fire dragon shape. "Black dragon Ridge" of the terrain and for the strategically located and difficult, both sides are lofty Shen He, steep, such as cutting, climbing stairs on both sides, cold cable was placed, potential scaling ladders, if almost impossible. When visitors climb if they leave the chain-packed. Two, three feet wide ridge, shaped like wulongbei. No wonder people call it a "black dragon Ridge" the real from the top down it down, uh, and Marx had to go dating. According to legend, the great Tang dynasty writer Han Yu came here, we saw rugged and mountainous terrain, clouds transpiration, panic eclipsed that one must see Laoyan the (not yet born when Marx), wrote a suicide note to the cast Ridge, and later said to be by peers who carry down come. It seems that we can go beyond today, "Han son of" the.
After nearly a dozen minutes of effort, and finally climbed up the "black dragon's Mill." Reach "jinsuoguan." "Golden gate" is the path to Dongfeng, the southern peak, Xifeng, throat, also known as Heavenly Gate, originally the throat of this lock is the meaning of your speech, but later generations see it as a place to express good wishes. Here on the stone steps on both sides of the chains, locks filled with thousands of sizes, a wide variety of locks son, the longest of course, see the "safety lock" and "even the heart lock", accompanied by Xiao Huang , Xiao Zhang, who would have bought a safe lock, a three money can also be engraved above the family's name. I always look forward to that can also be willing to share adversity with love, will find intimate lover, I must with her again on the Mountain, in the jinsuoguan hung an "even the heart Lock", and "even heart-lock" itself no meaningful significance of the Mountain can work together to witness a period of going through a difficult journey. Is said to travel back will be a lot of couples break up because of long-distance travel can often make a person's character is exposed, the siege which has also said that after a long journey, if not hate each other, it can be married Oh.
From jinsuoguan to Dongfeng road is not far away, because the victory is in sight, walking up and did not feel hard. Coming here, many people have been extreme hunger, cold and bad weather are likely to see the sunrise of the frustration of the uniforms, on the road can be a sheltered place to lie down and rest, the real climb scheduled 5:30 am Eastern peak is not a lot. I do not know how other people's ideas, but Dongfeng just a goal for me, we need to arrive around 5:30 where, as to be able to see the sunrise, for me, there is only icing on the cake, and I am already read Huangshan and Taishan sunrise, although enough, but even this can not see there will not be sorry. I think the essence of Huashan lies in its rugged and beautiful, of course, there is a deep feeling inside, that is said to Huashan, one of the Department of the birthplace of Chinese culture, according to well-known scholar in the Qing Dynasty, Mr. Zhang Taiyan research, "Chinese", "China "were so named by the Mountain.
To lead a ladder to the Dongfeng is a vertical cliff, digging a pit above a springboard, there are two chains on both sides to do handle must be hands and feet to climb up. May be because this is too dangerous, next to another repair of a certain tilt of the ladder, do not want to climb the ladder to climb from there. Now come, I certainly have to try ladder. Safety is always important. I have been under the ladder and so on, until everyone has completed above, I again began to climb, I think, more interesting than rock climbing.
Till Dongfeng, began to feel bursts of coolness, and finally to understand why the called the "infinite beauty in the dangerous mountain peak," strong winds can also see the sunrise, not "beauty" do. Dongfeng Chaoyang Taiwan because there is a considerable peak at sunrise, so called sun peaks. A lot of people to the sun sets, goals achieved, they can be rented pieces of military overcoats, where "Lay" the. Because it wanted to see the sunrise and started looking for a place to sit down. Because the static hit the campaign continued with the cold wind began to cool down the body, like rent military coat, after all, and only then rent a 10 yuan, but I have bought a 5 yuan a raincoat, you can wear to the wind. Double pot, half bottle left, accompanied by a girl a drink, I drank one. Into the sun sets here, not many people it lasts about twenty or thirty individuals. Day micro-light, I would sit calmly in the iron chain xintaizi outside and began to appreciate the mountain's scenery, according to records, "Huashan Department of a complete huge granite composition derived its history can be traced back to 27 million years," which is the good fortune of the power of the mountain is white, the color is said to say what the Huashan mountain, unlike most of the mountain is not the same.
Before reading the scenery of Huangshan return later Zaiqu Wild Goose, and Wuyi, feeling "Guilaibukan Huangshan mountain" seems to be saying the truth. But today I began to wonder whether this statement is true, the beauty of Huangshan is cison, rocks, sea of clouds and the sunrise, the beauty and Huangshan Huashan vary, each has its advantages. Perhaps if the board Huashan Laomao year would "not on the Great Wall of non-hero" to "Golden Mountain is not the non-hero" mean? . "Confucius Deng Lu Dongshan and small, Goldenthal mountains and small world", and think pedant then travel around the world have certainly not been to the state of Qin, in Lu's plain cropped up in the mountains over 1000 meters above sea level, "will be when Ling in excellent shape, "natural" List hills small ", and Qi do not know always other able men, mountains there are mountains outside Oh.
I started out taking pictures of the guys to fiddle about in one night, did not shoot any pictures, the hand began to itch a little.
"The camera looks great! What is the brand?" A girl sitting next to me asked.
I thought it was accompanied by Xiao Zhang, nor care about: "SONY DSC V1's"
"You are that school ah?"
Then I turned and saw this century I've seen girls feel most comfortable one, a pair of big eyes, wearing very few clothes in a very cold sunny smile. Surrounded by an army coat, but she was not useful. I sincerely admire a girl took six hours to climb the peak altitude of 2100 meters can also so refreshed.
"You see, I'm like still reading? Are you not cold?"
She began to laugh, and perhaps aware that a little bit cold, after a while, she put the military coat wrapped around a part of your body.
"I have worked for several years, this time a man ran out of play, and you study at the University in which ah?"
"I'm Xi'an Academy of Fine Arts! Where are you from ah?"
"I'm in Fujian, and you?"
"I'm home in Wuxi, and childhood growing up in Xian"
Wuxi feeling to hear a little bit warm, because "I have studied in Nanjing University, and how do you come without a canvas painting ah!"
"That's how climb up ah!"
... ... ... ... ... ...
Distant mountains on the distant clouds floated here and there, Dawn of the Mountain is beautiful.
"Thief thief America ... America America thieves."
She may nod and silently Feelings of looking at the distance, a row that the United States for several several more thieves. That I could not help but give her an air of a photo shoot, Xu trembling hand to see the sake of beauty (of course also possible that the sky is still black Oh), she gained a lot a very fuzzy picture, they then delete it out. Do not know why, I think of where this passage seems to read: "Let Your Heart girl, there are two, the first one you see you'll know and you will certainly be happy with her; another kinds of is that you see one you think you should make her happy. The former allows you to find a sense of paradise, the latter will be your motivation, to create a paradise! ", which later honored her with the boy should be belong to the first.
I stood up to the activities of what, it looks likely not see a sunrise. "Are you going? Do not look at the sunrise it?" Girl asked.
"I did not? We stayed 6:30, the sun do not come out and left"
The sun has finally come out or not, because otherwise there is no high expectations, I do not feel any disappointment. I and a few fellow students there taking pictures, the girl called away by her companions, and they seem to say that is no longer climb the other peaks, directly down the mountain. We must continue to move forward next goal is to Huashan very top of South Peak (Harmony between peak), 2160 meters above sea level.
To the south peak very top of a photograph as the climb to the top of the "evidence" is how Willful Unfortunately, too many people have this idea, and the South peak of the 2160 written on the stone sign, there are too many tourists in this photo souvenir, because disorder become very slow, I suggest you line up, after all, be able to board the very top of the Huashan who is not vulgar No symbol of believers, we also responded to the proposal, efficiency is greatly improved.
Xifeng on the way from South Peak to the edge of the cliff rock walls have the words "think about Cliff" is but a vassal Jin Yong's "Willful" story fills a pen on the concave and not to go in a small platform, it is impossible令狐冲training where and sister, Chong Ling Ling Shan sword's. However, Shaanxi Province, accompanied by a little girl, still disregarding difficulties and dangers, the hand clutching think about the one edge of a cliff chains, foot of a stone edge of a cliff, resolutely to let me photograph her.
Xifeng in the way to see scenery, set Huashan's show, beautiful. It is a pity the mountain's rock crevices grow the bushes, is actually depressed the green and did not know was a good Feng Shui Wa Shan, or Mountain of the stone also has the role of natural water storage. Xifeng peak road bridge looks like there is no fence, both sides are cliffs, walked nearby discovered that in fact relatively wide, and be regarded as the best way to go Huashan is one of the. Xifeng looks like lotus, also known as the Lotus Peak, it appears Huashan previously also known as "Ha Fa Shan," The root cause here. I remember Huangshan also have a Lotus Peak, elevation of only 1,800 meters, lower than the Mountain Lotus Peak 200 meters. The westbound, encounter many shapes, such as lotus mountain, I will mention later.
Climbing Huashan quickly meaning that the distance between each peak is very short, will soon be able to turn a few peak end. We started about noon and 12:00 hours down the. Easily down the mountains is difficult, because it is during the day, down the mountain people often will encounter, not to mention at this time I like the filling of the two legs of lead, appears to the external heavy foot to lose control. Walking unsteadily, how are unhappy to go. After an uncomfortable North Peak and see the rope, I almost collapsed. But fellow brothers and sisters, both students, they have to live frugally, and decided to walk on two legs down. I am reminded of a few years ago, when still in college to go to Huangshan is also a longer follow the path all the way down and decided that once again. Rhodobryum roseum from North Peak to the stone and then down the road is better to go up, but continue to go bad, especially the last few kilometers of the slow slope, there is no stairs, feeling toes have to move for the force, it is are not used. Cable car ride is said to like only 10 minutes, 60 yuan, but the foot has to spend three or four hours. Because everyone's step with nine peer into several squads, thanks to a fellow small yellow, Xiao Zhang Xiao Mu, and chatting together, while down the mountain, that they do not feel less pain. And to the foot of the mountain is close to 18 o'clock, which is sky, it started to rain. Originally intended to follow the same track at the Mountain at the foot of a meal, but most people have a rain-wet, and then began to set off back to Xi'an city. Nearly 20 o'clock to the railway station square, and after the separation of his companions to eat dinner, and then find a place to stay away from places relatively close to bubble a bit feet. I found socks off, left a long one centimeter long blisters. This is but the crystallization of Huashan 18 hours on foot.
The next day (26 days) to ten o'clock before climbing up to the train station and buy one on the 27th at 22 points more than the train from Xi'an to Lanzhou. And then eat a bowl of noodles, when leg muscles have come back to almost half, in the train station next to the hotel in front of the liberation of 306 to the hole of the terracotta figures on the green car. Sitting next to me is a fourteen or fifteen-year-old girl, and she said she would like to read junior high school, but her parents wanted her to go abroad to study in Australia, and maybe several years back. I say you are still so small that a person went out very hard. She said that people always want a little independence it, but her childlike face full of confidence. Car to the Huaqing Pool, the conductor said he could first spots, then go to the hole of reading and terracotta figures, and asked whether anyone get off the train, behind a handsome guy saying there is no good-looking spots, and I realized that I have found a can be accompanied by partner. Chitchat we know that he was in Shanghai Xiao He, who is also a backpack out to the hole of the same today, and terracotta figures, so had arranged to come along.
秦陵(实际上应该叫秦始皇墓冢或当今的秦陵景点,实际的秦陵陵园周长据记载就有30多里,因为真正的秦陵应该包括兵马俑坑等),秦陵在被发现前是一个比较大的土丘,上面据说什么植被都没有,四方锥形,底部的南北长515米,东西宽485米,高55米。但我们看到的秦陵整个封土上到处都是郁郁苍苍的灌木。据说是98年才种植的,现在已经长成这样子,可见秦始皇的功力真的是深厚无比,秦陵的风水也是没的说的。秦始皇陵的风水特点是,南面背山,东西两侧和北面形成三面环水之势。秦始皇特意选择的风水宝地特点就是"依山环水",南面的山为骊山,就是西周末年的周幽王与爱妾褒姒曾在这里演出了一场烽火戏诸侯的戏剧而葬送了西周王朝的那个骊山.三面环水指北面的渭水,东面的源自骊山的鱼池水和西面骊山的温泉水。渭水就是从咸阳往东的一条河流,渭水边上的咸阳即唐时的渭城。唐朝的王维有一首著名的诗《渭城曲》, “渭城朝雨浥轻尘. 客舍青青柳色新. 劝君更尽一杯酒. 西出阳关无故人”,这首诗后来还被谱成《阳关三叠》这首名曲,称为为送别诗的典范,广为流传。扯太远了,再说秦代"依山环水"的造陵观念对后代建陵产生了深远的影响,连我在银川看到的西夏王陵这种边疆帝王的陵墓也都是这种特点。
我和小何看了一下秦陵的地图,然后决定先叫辆马车环陵墓四周绕一圈,然后再沿台阶爬到封土的最顶端。我们叫了一辆敞棚的马车,绕一圈20元。那马好瘦小,我觉得纳闷,在我印象中陕西的马应该是威武神俊的,那赶马车的大爷告诉我们这不是关中的马,而是贵州的马,个头虽小但很温驯听话,两三公里的路程证明这句话是正确的。赶车的大爷兼做导游讲解,马车向东走去。大爷开始娓娓道来,这边下面是铠甲坑,那边是骊山,山陵向五朵莲花环抱秦陵,这边下面是文官坑,那边下面是铜车马挖掘出来的地方。同行的小何来之前先对秦陵秦俑做过比较详细的了解,不断的提出各种问题,大爷在我们不断的询问下也很热情的用我们勉强可以听懂的陕西话回答我们的问题。值得一提的是1980年底在秦始皇陵封土西侧发掘出的两乘铜车马,据说是按原物缩小一半仿真制作的。前面的叫立车,是开道车。后面的叫安车,是秦始皇乘坐的“高级卧车”,设置精美豪华,可坐可卧,安稳舒适。车厢有一门三窗,门在车尾,前窗可上下启闭,左右两窗板镶在两个凹槽之间,可以来回拉动,象现在汽车上的推拉玻璃窗,既便于观览沿途景色,又可通气采光,“闭之则温,启之则凉”,可说是秦代的“空调”车了。这两两车现在存放在兵马俑博物馆,可谓是镇馆之宝。车在挖出来时很多东西已然成为碎片,立车上的伞据说是变成了几百片还是几千片,免不了那些专家门费了好多心神修修补补才恢复了原型。在陵墓的西侧还有秦陵排水管道的实物展览,那些石头的弯管,直管等和现在的排水管道我看除了材质的区别,和经过几千年进化而来的现代的排水管道也没有多大的差异。说到为什么铜马车是在秦陵的西边。据说秦始皇是个“视死如视生”的家伙,所以搞了个怎么庞大的地宫陵寝,里面文官武将(当然是佣),车马等等应有尽有,他的皇宫咸阳在秦陵的西边,秦始皇每天从寝宫去皇宫上班,当然是从西边出来了。
从秦陵出来,有辆的士就过来说两个人只要三块钱就把我们送到兵马俑,我们觉得还比较合算,就上了车。司机开始跟我们吹嘘说蓝田玉如何如何好,要带我们直接去蓝田玉加工厂买玉,甚至把车开到了路边的玉石加工厂门口停了下来。我们一致说蓝田玉是好,但我们还是想先去兵马俑。司机见我们意见如此绝决,又把话题转了一个方向说兵马俑现在门票提价已经要九十元了,如果要看兵马佣还不如去附近的临潼博物馆,东西是一样的,但门票只要二十四元。我生平最恨别人我已经表示毫无兴趣却还一直向我推销的那种人,我们一致谢谢他的好意但表示我们赶时间还是要先去兵马俑。司机没有办法只好按我们的意思走,一两公里收三块钱,连起步价都没有,今天没有赚到外快估计会后悔半死。
到兵马佣这个地方不请导游是不行的,我们请了个导游30元,讲解时间一个多小时。秦始皇陵兵马俑坑被誉为“世界第八奇迹”,可谓名声在外,所以外国游客也相当的多。兵马俑共有三个坑,三号坑呈“凸”字形状,出土有战车,马俑,武士俑等。坑内陶俑以夹道式排列,据称是秦军的指挥中心。二号兵大部分还没有挖掘完成。一号坑以车兵为主体,车、步兵成矩形联合编队。兵马俑一号坑并没有电影上看的那样气势磅礴,据说兵马俑总数据探测应该有8000个左右,但现在挖掘修复的才1000多个,电影上兵马俑阵势是经过艺术加工的。很多兵马佣在挖掘出来时都是残缺不全的,据说一个专家要花三个月的时间才能修复一个残缺不全的佣,所以兵马俑发现20年来也不过挖掘修复了1000多个佣,未来的路还很长。保护也是一个很困难的事情,我们现在看到的兵马俑大部分是很朴实的陶土的颜色,其实在刚出土的时候兵马俑都是彩佣,但见光和空气后颜色慢慢褪去。怀疑可能是因为配色的颜料是采用天然材料, 近年德国提供了一种用于附着的胶水,据说在兵马俑刚挖掘出来是涂上去颜色就不会再褪去。
兵马俑之奇在于:
奇一:俑高每个都超过1.7米,和当时的真人模特应该是1:1比例。
奇二:佣的面目各异,据说目前找不出神态完全相同的两个来。
奇三:佣制作的时候考虑很细致,从服饰、甲胄和排列位置可以分出不同的身份,有将军、军吏、材官、射士、骁士、伍卒等,据说还可以看出是那个地方的人。这里还有一个细节,地位较高武士的脚趾往上翘,是为“趾高气扬“,而地位低下的脚趾是平的。
秦俑环幕电影院内有专卖玉石画册的商店,当年挖井挖出秦俑的西杨村农民之一杨培彦,以“发现人”的身份在这里为游客签名。有个女孩买了本画册去让杨老签名,因为签名写得龙飞凤舞,这小姑娘没有看明白,就坦率的去问杨老“请问您叫什么名字啊”,呵真是好玩啊。再说那蓝田玉,据说秦陵所在地就是当时的蓝田,李商隐有诗云”沧海夜明珠有泪,蓝田日暖玉生烟“,这诗名气太大,以至于我对蓝田玉来了兴趣,以至于商家跟我们说蓝田玉是中国四大名玉之一。经过了一番讨价还价,买到了两个玉镯,一个号称是江花玉,黑色的色块点缀期间,晶莹透亮,价钱是180元;一个是芙蓉玉,涣着紫色的光,在灯光下可以看到棉絮状的类似冰块的东西,价钱是120元。回家后请稍微懂行的人鉴别一下据说是真玉,当然这样的价钱也别指望买到好玉了。但我后来去网上查了一下,发现中国四大名玉是指是新疆产出的"和田玉"、河南南阳产出的"独山玉",湖北郧县等地产出的"绿松石"和辽宁岫岩县产出的"岫玉",并没有包含蓝田玉。
从兵马俑出来已经18:48分,懒得再去找306的专线车,坐上了一辆中巴,结果千古遗憾,本来几十分钟的车程,这中巴居然走了两个多小时。和小何商量要补偿一下自己的情绪损失,决定去百年老店“老孙家“吃羊肉泡沫。汤味道挺好的,泡沫吗我是南方人吃起来感觉就一般了。老孙家地点在东大街,名气响得很,墙上挂的那些老照片表明了老蒋、张学良、鲁迅等人都曾经到此一游。当然这里泡沫和其他的东西的价格也是超强,别的地方一碗6元左右的泡沫这里一碗13元,别的地方5元的啤酒这里一瓶要12元。
晚上住宿决定换一个地方,本来一个朋友帮我联系西安交大财经学院的招待所,我也很乐意去住在名校里面,不过吃完泡沫后已经快22:00了,不好去叨扰,于是决定去住小何住的那个西安书院国际青年旅舍。在这里我又碰到了第二天可以和我一起去玩的小冉。
小冉来自重庆,快人快语,她自嘲自己不像重庆人,因为重庆姑娘皮肤都润白润白的比她好的多。她还在读大三,这几天不开心就跑出来玩,到了西安连去哪里都还没有确定。我说第二天要去城墙骑自行车,她说要一起去。
对了,该先介绍一下国际青年旅舍,国际青年旅舍是指加入国际青年旅舍联盟并按照其标准来运作的一种旅舍。其特点是卫生,价位相对低廉,青年旅舍提倡的是一种健康,回归自然的生活方式,它提供一个各国青年交流的平台(所以找天南地北同游的旅伴比较容易)。西安书院青年旅舍就在南门城墙根下,同时也是在书院门边上,交通和旅行都很方便。会员价双人间120元/天,四人间40元/床位,非会员价略高10-20元。当然日常用品必须自理,四人间的房间每个人都配一个有钥匙的柜子,为上下两层的床。旅舍外国旅客很多,如果你英语还行可以很容易找到同游的外国驴友。西安青年旅社总体感觉氛围不错,如果您是背包族,到西安不防联系一下青年旅舍,电话是029-87287720,87287721。
27日早上和小冉去城墙骑双人自行车,依然是向东方向走一直到尽头然后再返回原地,花的时间差不多1个小时。只要天气不热,在城墙边骑自行车边看风景绝对是一种享受。从城墙下来开始去逛书院门,书院门是卖各种古玩和旅游商品的地方,对古玩我没有兴趣,我们逛了一圈,买了一些东西如贾平凹《废都》里提到的那种古老乐器埙(xun),当然还有陕西很出名的剪纸。埙有很多种形状,上面也有各种不同的图案,我买的其中一个是半坡遗址的图案,非常的精美。扁的比较贵差不多要20元左右,其他形状的5-20元不等。剪纸比较精品的店里都比较贵,一本《红楼梦》的剪纸十二张也差不多要20元左右。当然这里还有出售笔墨纸砚古玩印章等各种东西,同行的小冉就花100元买了一对很漂亮的石头印章(褐色的石头,合在一起仿佛是一条大河的图案,非常的美,开价是380,我们费了九牛二虎之力才把价格砍下来)。
27日下午去陕西省历史博物馆,这座根据周总理遗愿建成的在大雁塔附近的博物馆堪称中国博物馆之最,据说可以和之相提并论的只有北京故宫博物馆。陕博充分体现了博字,“地下看西安,地上看泉州”,西安作为十三朝的古都,而且中国最强盛时期的秦汉唐都建都于此,出土文物非常之多。博物馆为我国著名女建筑师张锦秋设计的、建筑面积达5.6万平方米。张锦秋曾设计了西安的唐华宾馆、唐歌舞餐厅、唐代艺术博物馆等突出唐代风格的大型建筑。她在设计陕西历史博物馆时,也着意突出唐风,反映一个博大、辉煌的时代风貌,有一种梦回唐朝的感觉。展出的2000多件文物,是从馆藏的11.3万件文物中精选出来的,大部分属于国家一、二、级文物。在这里犹如置身于历史的入口,是中国几千年来各个王朝的各种活动和文化包括四神、星象、宗教、建筑、仪卫、狩猎、生活、友好等的一个缩影。在这里花费这么多的笔墨,显然是因为陕西省历史博物馆的名气可能在国外比国内更响,外国游客占可大半就是明证,我们枉称有五千年的文化,却如此的不懂得去珍惜。
从博物馆出来开始去大雁塔广场。大雁塔北广场中央设有音乐喷泉,号称是全国最大的音乐喷泉。水池中的八级变频方阵据说可以变换出各种不同的造型,无奈我去的时间不对,喷泉并没有启动,不过黄昏独坐在喷泉水池旁边,梦回唐朝那进士们雁塔提名、曲江宴游的旧事,想起那个当年屡试不第可怜的孟郊在考了25年之后终于一朝登科,写下了“春风得意马蹄急,一朝看尽长安花”那种暴发户心态的诗句;那个被顾况宣传“居于长安很容易”的白居易比孟郊就幸运多了,28岁就高中进士,写下了“慈恩塔下提名时,十七人中最年少”,傲气漫溢于诗中。
从大雁塔广场出来差不多17:40分,想到晚上要离开西安了,想去看看那个在华山顶上邂逅的那个“贼美”的朋友所在的西安美院,在美院呆了一个小时。开始去青年旅舍收拾行李去火车站。
旅途上最有意思的地方之一就是火车,可以碰到天南地北的朋友一起瞎侃神聊,西安往兰州的火车上我碰到了一个西安搞电力的工程师,奇怪的是我这次碰到的很多人都来过泉州和厦门,他也不例外。他断定我是在西安读书的学生,我顺水推舟说我是西安电子科大的学生,学的是微电子,我发誓我没有说谎的企图, 只是想试验一下我毕业了几年还是不是像个大学生的模样。最惨的是聊了一个晚上,这位朋友竟然没有将我识破,好伤心。火车22:20分左右出发,第二天早上7:30分到兰州,买了张8:30分兰州到西宁的“子弹头”列车。下了站在兰州吃了碗久闻大名的兰州拉面,2个小时50分钟的旅程让我到了下一个目标青海。
那一月我摇动所有的经筒,不为超度,只为触摸你的指尖;
那一年磕长头在山路,不为觐见,只为贴着你的温暖;
那一世转山,不为修来世,只为途中与你相见!
三青海不知道为什么从心底里这么的喜欢和向往青海,直到后来在北京的PASS BY酒吧的杂志上看到这首诗。写下这深情诗篇的,据说是西藏历史上最好的诗人,也是一个极具悲剧性的人物--六世达赖喇嘛仓央嘉措。据说三百年前,从拉萨前往京城的途中,25岁的他神秘地淹没在青海湖的烟波浩渺中,留给后人的是无尽的遐想。
到西宁住的依然是青年旅舍------青海桑珠青年旅舍,老板姓程,西安人,很坦率热情,电话是0971-3594118,地点在青海省西宁市互助中路94号。地点稍微偏了一点,如果您不是单人背包族而是自己有好多人同游,建议你也可以住省军区招待所,一样便宜,但距离闹市区比较近,交通等会比较方便。
到西宁已经是28日中午,5.1长假还没有开始,来住店的人并不多,在青年旅舍找到四个同伴,郑州的小郑和小马,另外两个是从太原来此度蜜月的小高夫妇。
吃完饭后第一站是去塔尔寺。塔尔寺据西宁约25公里,打出租车20-25元。塔尔寺,藏语称“衮本贤巴林”, 意为十万狮子吼佛像的弥勒寺。塔尔寺坐落在青海省湟中县鲁沙尔镇西南隅的莲花山坳中,八面环山如八朵莲花合抱着这错落有致依山而建的寺院。我前面提过黄山华山有莲花峰,秦陵俪山也有貌如莲花之说,而这塔尔寺更是有“八朵莲花”。这么古人非要把这些山看成是莲花,到塔尔寺我才有所察觉,这应该和佛教有关,莲花为佛教密宗十大供养之一,佛典中以莲花为往生之所托,又视为报身佛之净土,故在佛前多供奉此花。
塔尔寺是我国藏传佛教格鲁派(俗称黄教)创始人宗喀巴大师的诞生地,也是藏区黄教六大寺院之一。相传当年在宗喀巴大师的断脐带血处长出了白栴檀树,树上的十万片叶子每片都有一尊佛像。宗喀巴大师后来到西藏学佛,他母亲老来思念儿子,就剪下自己的一绺白发托人寄给宗喀巴大师,大师也一样思念母亲,但不想学法半途而废,因此用鼻血写书给母亲,让她在其出生之断脐带血处建一莲聚宝塔,见塔如见子,因宝塔合抱着长有十万狮子吼佛像树叶的白栴檀树,而且是先有此塔后再建寺,故名塔尔寺。这也就是上述“衮本贤巴林”的由来。
塔尔寺的“三绝”——酥油花、壁画、堆绣想必大家都略有所闻,我在这里就不再多说了,我想花更多的笔墨于我的所见所闻和所想。
塔尔寺和其他藏传佛教的寺庙有一个共同的特点就是“含金量”很高,其中的大金瓦殿屋顶共花黄金1300两,白银12000两修筑而成。
大家应该有注意到塔尔寺原意为“十万狮子吼佛像的弥勒寺”,所以供奉的大部分是弥勒佛,弥勒佛是未来佛,据称要在56亿年后才轮到他主宰世界。藏区很多很多信徒把自己的大部分财产捐给寺庙,而自己却过着艰苦的生活,因为他们求的是来生,今生的痛苦算得了什么呢。
在塔尔寺经常我们会看到无比虔诚的藏族信徒,五体投地的在哪里跪拜,据说来还愿的很多信徒要跪拜10万次,年轻的三个月方可以完成,年纪大一点的要一年才能完成。次数的计算据说是通过手上的念珠来进行的,每磕一次头,就转动念珠一次,转一圈就是108次。
从塔尔寺回来,晚上和同伴一起去吃羊肉和牦牛肉,西宁比较出名的烤肉店有沙里海和马义民手抓羊肉等。
第二天在青年旅舍程经理的帮助下我们五个人包了一辆丰田金杯的车去青海湖,绕湖一圈来回600多公里,总价600元。我们后来计算了一下600元是很合算的,600多公里油钱就要300元左右,再加上90元的过路费,司机所赚也没有多少了。
因为去年在青海湖举行国际环湖自行车赛,西宁到青海湖都修有高速公路比较好走。
沿途第一个景点是日月山,日月山原名叫赤岭,之所以改为日月山和文成公主有关。文成公主原名李雪雁,是江夏郡王的女儿。据说琴棋书画医史典籍样样精通。那个吐蕃的松赞干布刚迎娶了尼泊尔的公主,从而引进了佛教文化。又打着仰慕大唐文化的旗帜要和大唐和亲。由于受刚刚迎娶大唐公主的土谷浑君王的挑拨,遭到了拒绝。后松赞干布开始用武力来说话,打了败仗之后又来求婚,这下唐太宗也觉得不是办法,决定要牺牲一个公主了。但是那些真正的公主和王亲国戚的千金个个都不想去吐蕃受苦,只好把愿意承担此重任的江夏郡主赐予文成公主名号,和婚吐蕃。当时文成公主金藏时正是年方二八(16岁),正是豆蔻年华,唐朝与少数民族和婚的公主不下十个,能千古流名的除了文成公主还有谁呢?再说文成公主在这里甩掉了能看到家乡的日月宝镜,赤岭才被命名为日月山。
日月山可不一般,不是因为文成公主。而是因为日月山是青海东部农业区和西部牧业区的分水岭,山麓西边是广袤苍茫,牧草丰茂,牛羊成群的大草原;山麓东边是村落点点,梯田阡陌,麦浪滚滚的农区。历史上日月山还是唐朝和土蕃的分界岭,而现在是藏区和非藏区的分界线。文成公主从西安到甘肃天水临夏进而到青海日月山再到西藏的这条道路也称为“唐蕃古道“,是四大进藏路线(滇藏,川藏线,新藏线和青藏线)之一,很多驴友会从西安或青海出发重走“唐蕃古道“,体验一下文成公主当年的进藏的艰辛之旅。日月山是个巨大的风口,海拔在3500米以上,所以非常寒冷,身体虚弱的人还有可能会高原反应,由于空气非常干燥,建议在行前一定要多带点水。我们在日月山停下来“吹风”时,嘴唇流了血,刚开始吓了一大跳还以为是流鼻血,怕是是高原反应的前奏,后来才发现是太干燥导致嘴唇流血。在日月山周围可以看到远处山峰上白白的终年不化的积雪,在阳光的照射下闪着银光。日月山上筑有日亭和月亭,都是后来修建的,而且要收门票,建议还是节省点银子不要去看也罢。
沿途第二个景点是倒淌河。传说文成公主在赴西藏途中,到达日月山时,回首不见长安,西望一片苍凉,念家乡,思父母,悲恸不止,在唐太宗赐予的号称可以看到家乡的日月宝镜里又看不到长安,甩掉了日月宝镜,流泪西行,公主的泪汇成了这条倒淌河。倒淌河从日月山往西流一直流到青海湖,可见当年文成公主许是看到了青海湖的美景破涕为笑,许是眼泪已经流干了。现在的倒淌河河面垃圾很多一片狼藉,河水很小,文成公主在天有灵的话看了这种情景即使不思恋家乡也会泪流成河的。
再往前走到达青海湖入口,听说在青海湖入口不远处的湖帐篷宾馆边上的一个地方据说也要收门票,可以让游人在那边看青海湖。其实青海湖那么大,并不一定是那个点看到的湖光山色就最好,所以门票也可以省下来。一路上司机在放了好几遍“青藏高原”这首歌,汽车在广袤的草原上奔走,一边是星星点点的黑色和白色的牦牛点缀期间,另外一边是茫茫一片(这天天气不是很好)的青海湖,那是一种很涤荡心胸的感觉。青海湖的海拔在3200米以上,这样的高原地带让你感觉离天空很近很近,空气好像少了一道屏障一样,格外的透澈,美丽的青海湖总是随着天气的变化变换着它的衣裳。但可惜的是青海湖湖水的面积据说在逐年的减小,现在湖面离公路已经有很长的一段距离,总有一天它会哭干了最后一滴眼泪,变成了另外一个罗布泊,不仅想起了齐豫的那首歌“高山上的那一面湖水是地球表面上的一滴眼泪”。
由于气候的原因,青海湖一年中差不多又半年时间比较适合旅行,以每年7 ,8月份为最佳,这时青海湖岸边满山遍野的的油菜花开放,成为青海湖的一大景观。其次是5月份,这时成千上万的侯鸟归来在青海湖栖息产卵,是看鸟的最好季节。我去的时间是4月29日,将近五月份的时光,在鸟岛看到了成群的海鸟飞翔,那是我小时候还没有看过大海前想象中大海的模样。长大后到了厦门、泉州、大连和青岛的海边,别说看到成群的海鸥,连零星的海鸟都难得一见。
看到童年想像中的大海固然很美妙,但我还是固执的认为青海湖旅行最好的方式是徒步,骑自行车,驾车绕湖的过程才是最为美妙的体验,最佩服的是在青海湖会看到有外国人背着一个很大的背包绕湖徒步的旅行。可惜在青海湖都见不到有出租自行车的,我在旅舍听说有一个广州的姑娘从广州托运自行车到西宁,然后打算从西宁骑自行车到青海湖绕湖一圈再返回,虽然佩服但并不赞赏,因为旅行是要以安全为基础的。
五月的青海湖畔,草还没有长绿,当然是看不到“风吹草低见牛羊”的景象了,但有一个地方,草却是格外的绿,那就是金银滩了,当年王洛宾在这里遇见了淳朴动人的藏族姑娘卓玛,写下了那首广为传唱的《在那遥远的地方》,我想许是卓玛和王洛宾爱情的力量永保着这片草地的常青。
从青海湖回到西宁已经是19:00左右,司机建议我们去看一下青海互助县的土族风情表演。土族差不多是中国人口最少的民族了,全国现有人口约19万左右,目前已经被汉化的差不多了。看土族风情表演包括吃晚饭总共一人30元,车费150元我们五个人AA也是一人三十元。总共每人60元。
土族风情表演里面有一个比较有意思的是轮子秋,由于本人文才有限,不知道如何描述这种东西,我还是转载一段相关的描述:“关于轮子秋的起源,有一则美丽神奇的传说。相传土族先民为了寻求生活的出路,先后用青龙和野牛犁地,都失败了。最后用黄牛耕地,'犁了南滩犁北滩,洒下金子般的青稞种子'。秋天,制作木车,运送收割的庄稼。当最后一车麦捆运上场时,车子翻了,只见两个净肚娃娃在朝天的那扇车轮上飞舞,口唱丰收的家曲《杨格喽》。
从此,每年冬季碾完场后,人们在平整宽阔的麦场或者宽敞的地场上,把卸掉车棚的大板车车轴连车轮坚立起来,稳固住重心。朝上的一扇车轮上平绑一架长木梯,梯子两端牢固地系上皮绳或麻绳挽成的绳圈。两人相向推动木梯,使之旋转,然后乘着惯性分别坐或站在绳圈内,快地转动起来,并表演出各种令人瞠目结舌的惊险动作,令人喝彩。观看的人还不时地帮推木梯,使之加速旋转。有时,一大群服装艳丽的男女青年在旁边围成圆圈,载歌载舞,势如众星簇月。 "
看完了这一大段转载的描述之后,我要说的是我和同行的郑州的小马也去试了一下轮子秋,转起来速度很快,因为是绕圆圈的运转,比秋千更惊险刺激,不过转几圈下来,我头都快被转晕了。
看完表演后准备吃饭,其中有一个土族的风俗是喝三杯酒。客来先献酒三杯,名曰“下马酒”;客人被引至家门口时,再次斟酒三杯献上,谓曰:“临门三杯酒”;客人进屋上炕坐定,主人还要给每人敬酒三杯,谓之“吉祥如意三杯酒”。宴席完毕,当客人起身告辞,准备打马回程时,主人还要捧酒敬客三杯,为客人饯行,名曰“上马酒”。酒是青稞酒,度数有48度,幸亏杯子是比较小的那种,那晚我总共喝了12杯以上的青稞酒,差点留下来当土族的女婿了。当然,土族的小阿姑跟我们说,确实不能喝酒的人,客人只需用无名指蘸酒对空弹三次,表示领情和谢意,不过我们同行的五人早就想尝尝传说中的青稞酒,就连同行的两个女孩也都尽自己能力喝了好多青稞酒。
到这里青海的旅行基本结束,我还想告诉大家,如果对藏饰感兴趣可以到西宁水晶巷或者火车站边上的滨和路市场去购买,大部分的藏饰都是既便宜又好看。
另外青海还有一些景点可以去,坎布拉森林公园和孟达天池据说都是很值得一去的地方。坎布拉森林以丹霞地貌著称,而且去坎布拉要途经李家峡水库,据说看到李家峡水库就会发现黄河并不是一开始就很黄,在那里你可以体会黄河的清澈和温柔。
最后想让大家知道的是我们的司机谢师傅是大学生出身,五十多岁,和蔼可亲,开车经验很丰富,而且可以在旅途中兼职做讲解,他的车是丰田金杯,可以坐10个人,他的电话是13797144434,有空去青海需要包车不妨找他。
请为我唱一首出塞曲, 用那遗忘了的古老言语。
请用美丽的颤音轻轻呼唤, 我心中的大好河山。
那只有长城外才有的清香, 谁说出塞歌的调子太悲凉。
如果你不爱听那是因为, 歌中没有你的渴望。
---《出塞曲》
四塞上明珠---银川
本来《出塞曲》主要描述的是蒙古一带的风情,但我觉得它和我感受到的塞上明珠的那种风格非常的神似。宁夏大部分的地区也在长城之外和蒙古连在一起,在风貌上和内蒙没有多大的区别。要说有区别那就是黄河,黄河造就了银川,天下黄河富宁夏,这里曾经水网密布,在阳光的照耀下,河川闪着银色的光芒,银川因而得名。这里曾经耸立水车252轮,据说是水车之乡叙利亚哈马市得八倍多,可是如今,黄河母亲在儿女的不断索取下渐渐老去,再也转不动那水车。
粗略的算了一下本文的字数已经将近20000字,我知道很多读者已经开始对我咬牙切齿了,为了自己人身的安全,我只对银川三天的旅程做简要的描述。
5.1日去沙湖,第一次看到了芦苇,第一次看到了沙漠,第一次看到了骆驼,第一次滑沙,第一次骑马…….沙湖上有很多很刺激的运动比如沙漠越野车,滑索,滑沙,骑马,骑骆驼等等,只不过RMB上的毛主席一直再告诫我年轻人要节俭才不敢玩得才尽兴。黄金周的第一天天气并不是很好,沙湖上风很大,经常要闭着眼睛,不多时已经鞋里嘴里衣服上到处都市细沙。我奇怪那“无奸不商,无孔不入”的商人为什么没有去做一些防沙的眼镜在这里出售或租用。
5.2日去贺兰山,“驾长车,踏破贺兰山缺”,从来没有到过贺兰山的岳飞的满腔豪情成就了贺兰山的名气。我们也驾了一辆长车(长城皮卡)踏上了贺兰山的苏峪口国家森林公园。所谓国家森林公园山上大部分植被是常见的马尾松,福建估计大部分的山上的植被种类都比这里丰富得多,在这里又看不到我想看的贺兰山岩画,上天终于可怜我,于是下了一场大雪,雪中的贺兰山倒是有一番情趣。毕业后这么多年在南方生活再也没有看过雪花,今日一见自然有“他乡遇故知”的感觉。没有想到银川五月份都会下雪,想来六月飞霜也不是不大可能的,《窦娥冤》里用“六月飞霜因邹衍“来说明奇冤看来并不合适。
下午去镇北堡影视城,这个张贤亮和张艺谋用来出卖荒凉的地头,据说是古时的一个兵营,可以让人体会古时边关那种苍凉的感觉。在这里拍的几百部影片中最著名的莫过于《红高梁》了,那个高耸的月亮门已经成了镇北堡影视城最靓丽的一道风景,从月亮门向远处望去,就是影视城的背景贺兰山了。雪后的贺兰山,迷梦一样的蓝色和白色辉映着,是如此的冷峻而圣洁,如果不是周围的黄土地提醒我,还真以为是梦里的天山。
影视城最糟糕的地方就是没有让那尘世中喧嚣的车辆,停靠在远离这荒凉的地方,把停车场放在影视城的中间,绝对是张贤亮的败笔。
去完影视城去东方的金字塔西夏王陵,在哪里可以看到大宋王朝的淳弱和蒙古的强大。上溯770多年前,西北大地耸立着一个与宋、辽鼎立的少数民族王国—“大夏”封建王朝(西夏党项人原依附于大唐王朝,被赐姓李,开国国君为李元昊,开国后改姓),因其位于同一时期的宋、辽两国之西,历史上称之为“西夏”。后于13世纪,在成吉思汗的铁蹄下被灭国,从开国到灭亡前后共189年。
西夏王陵的发现始于一次偶然,即1972年兰州军区建设小型军用机场的一次勘查。 1999年在朱镕基总理的重视下西夏王陵得到很好的挖掘和整修,得见天日。西夏王陵在蒙古的灭国中惨遭毁坏过,再也看不到当年的辉煌,所以至今只能看到一些很有塞北风格厚重而很有历史感的“土堆”(陵墓),这些“陵墓”据说是按照星相来布置的,据说现在发现的9个陵墓,排列的阵形刚好是北斗星的阵列。看西夏王陵我浅薄的认为主要是看西夏189年的历史沿革,一个少数民族国家又强盛转为灭国的历史,里面的博物馆和西夏历史生活场景艺术雕像展馆是不能不看的。
5.3日去黄河边上的金水园,来这里主要是看黄河,可以说没有黄河就没有银川。在金水园没有坐羊皮筏子漂流等于白来。羊皮筏子又名浑脱,“不用轻帆并短棹,浑脱飞渡只须臾”。浑作全解,而脱即剥皮。顾名思义:便是完整的羊皮做的革囊。十几只革囊并在一起,上面架木椽若干,再用小绳捆绑,就是一只筏子。张张羊皮都是精挑细选,历经浸水,曝晒,拔毛,灌盐水,涂麻油,这一道道工序。充上气,只只鼓涨,个个红褐,仰面朝天,如同列队的烤乳猪。观感是差了一点,但坐起来却非常的舒服,怎一个爽字了得。
Postscript:
旅程结束了,文字的游戏也结束了。我不知道我写的是游记,是旅行的攻略还是随想,由于时间的关系以及后来江郎才尽的缘故,很遗憾在写银川时没有能写出那种出塞曲的风格。
人生本来就是一次在地球上短暂的旅行,爱过,哭过,痛过,笑过,结束了,开始了。
---谨以此文献给我因写这些文字而被牺牲掉的一个双休日、
此次旅行中的同伴以及所有热爱西北的朋友!
作者:70830827