Planning across the three provinces of Guangdong and Guangxi-Hunan Jiu Yi, began to worry about nobody enrollment, enrollment was more worried about people not cars, to borrow a truck driver was not enough ... ... do not worry about the origin of the feelings of deterioration. Was decided not to worry, to open a space of bread, who is going to whom it wants to get on the train, so we have a 3 and 2 SANDY Riding Alone for the mother and child through a single driver 2400KM provinces. "Single driver" does not mean that the driver name SHAN, refers to a person to drive; his old surnamed Huang, that is a mere next Hei hei. Because the destination is the Longsheng and Phoenix, so called "Panlongfufeng."
Luoluosuosuo, is a title in mind.
DAY1: Yangshuo Spring with 10,1 last year, the same 5-point, the wash, loading and eat breakfast. 6:30 departure to the mother and daughter, Foshan then SANDY 2. SANDY from the Internet about the past, young female teachers, there is a very sexy voice. Pleasant voice said to a woman generally grow more thrilling, with such a psychologically prepared to see the real person still capable of when they managed to maintain a living image, not scared ventilation, Hehe. Shenzhen姓王the two couples in Foshan and the original appointment, but a cell phone is turned off, appears to be a volte-face. Abandoned the accord does not matter, the original that all is well that at any time decide to keep on the train, but the phone did not notice a still shut down, it Vicia donkey Germany also bad.
Less a pair of mixed brigades reduced to a squad, but I am elderly, "office" has improved: from "first secretary of the (drivers)" to "the only secretary of the" whole person may be authorized by me to open, and hard it is, !
I think we are at this age also talks about the English name is a very disgusting thing, so I asked SANDY's Guan Ming, because she Jiao Ashan. Ashanti is a talkative person, talkative meant that she was special to Meihuazhaohua, including a boy or female sperm determinism lightly on the lip; Ashanti is still a humble person, she said he is simply wrong to teach mathematics were children, but she said that when he got married 7 years, 8 years old when her daughter was full of logical discourse, and I can not be settled until today in which the relationship between the depressed ah; course the most important Ashanti is also a good man, this way we are more commitment to her a lot of attention, here is to thank her.
The four will, Quang Ninh, Guangxi Huaiji into the territory of this section of track running familiar with last year, all the way without words. Department of local government in Jiejing pull up the "Guangdong big brother, Tai Shan National Forest Park welcomes you" banner, as well as a few days later by the courtesy in Guangxi, Guangdong and Guangxi people appreciate to a brotherhood of difficulty.
Spring Festival Evening northern Guangxi, nearly Lixia after midnight, is still late spring scenery: the road on both sides do not know what species of trees, neat and whirling, the new green to play his tricks to people very comfortable under the sun. These trees later in the paragraph in Guangxi has been accompanied our journey. After entering replaced in Hunan and Southern Europe and the United States Black Young Yang, Guangxi, more than a higher straight. Big wide leaves swaying in the breeze, caress, rolling down the window turn off the sound, moving rustle infiltration soul, as South Korean movie "One Fine Spring Day," where bamboo Teana-like aesthetic. That was the best way I've seen the tree species, and recommends that the Guangdong to introduce to improve our road green.
Car do not feel hungry, to say the car snacks will be done, then out to the large He Jie Zhen Shan (from Hezhou 17KM) before lunch, when 13 o'clock. Yu Tai roadside restaurant full of tourist buses parked outside the shopkeeper may say there is no spare capacity then those of us who received FIT, the old passenger is not OK. A small restaurant next to the venue and the result reception capacity is less than - sit down 10 minutes after the young girl came to us sorry to say: Still not spare staff to order food. Then let's go, go visit the town to open. About 1KM look, there is a small bridge, connecting the town outside the town; bridge left a hotel, take a look at the door stopped two cars in Guangzhou on the go. Boss graciously came hospitality, and asked what dishes point. I am a big hand wave: delicious, fast, do not give you the money! Boss Yi Leng, followed by Hei hei to go with giggle - appears to be unaware of this Cantonese-style hotel humor, and I do not joking with him. In his recommendation, we point the bean curd, melon flower stuffed, chicken, etc. As for how taste like, hey, do you think people talk about cooking with the Shunde interesting? However, the melon flower is stuffed pumpkin flowers stuffed with minced meat of the fish glue, pepper seasoning into the soup boil, taste is very unique, tofu is also doing very well worth recommending.
On the back when some sections still under construction, completed this year across the board, so the car run fast. After a sand town of Rock Hill in Guilin landscape unique to the region goes into the immediate present. Road on both sides of the oleander flowers red and white (the white blossoms of oleander really have not seen), in which the walk through and feel special cool. Such as thumb Hill appears when carriage is a joy, the women were asked how far, I have come to terms with the instructions of the road signs and mileage The answer was "fast, there are more than 60 kilometers," voice hardly ever, Yangshuo has been able to drive a car Guaige Wan bridge, we are the boss of Guangdong Development's "Chinatown" project is in front - this is a sign of access to Yangshuo! This way, I wake up from when I was wrong to Guilin, Yangshuo, many forget the more than 60 kilometers. Khan, ah ... at that ...
This was done before he came here is some homework, and think of netizens described the great beauty of the Lijiang River or the West Side lived; combined with the previous experience is not in the peach Road (West Exit) parking space - in fact, have no parking spaces in the (people do not look at the street more than last year, it should be more people to buy a car. entrusted the welfare of the CPC Central Committee, economic development喽, good oh). Directly entered the Emerald Road, ignore the intersection, "during the holiday season, be banned from entering," a notice, as long as there is not inside the blocked traffic police at the intersection Lan Zhao, you may also remained open. In fact, many inside the parking spaces are (there are temporary parking lot, if not to engage in that parking lot into what?), People traffic police, but license is a diagram of Comrade Li worry Bale. Guilin people peace of mind can be had on the off, I'm not deliberately finding fault in; and insider information Guilin traffic police have been notified to the external drive, especially in Guangdong from the car to try to accommodate minor violation, so you will feel free to make open bar.
He He pulled into the distance. We Qiguaibaguai to go to the county in front of parking - walk a few steps east of here is the Lijiang River, and south to walk a few steps is the West. Women with children to go under the River splashing, and I went to stay alone. Royal King asking price 680, repeat that also 400; River House on 350 asking price, but also to a reduction of 300 would not be willing; Street Inn No. 8 no room opposite the inn did not introduce an independent bathroom. In fact, many have not sold the inn to the final room, but seems like a good reluctant to discuss price cuts - was 11 points in the West looking for a casually ask, but also bite to 220 - Well, could not agree let's just do not Cou this exuberant. Call on them, and we returned last year stayed in the Jing Feng Lu Yulong River scenic area at the entrance to Hong Lin hotels. Yangshuo county town itself is also a small palm-sized, living side a bit, and there were no special inconvenience; and the impression that both the macro-lam, clean, not expensive, last stay or quite satisfied.
LP off asking about the price and wife do not remember her, to open 200. Back to the board a report, I am anxious, and rub to jump off the motorcycle is a curse roundly pass, and then again to coax another lie, and even the audacity to be Ashanti packaged travel company manager (our car was borrowed from the travel company , the car body with the company's LOGO). Boss laughed and agreed down to 140,哇靠, or 40% more expensive than last year! Seems to Yangshuo people respond to this Golden Week of the stock market estimated to be too optimistic.
Sure enough, the night returned to Hong Lin Pao Wan Street, "there is room" license plates still hanging high ground.
Bath ready to go for dinner. I am very enthusiastic to do their homework first, ask Yangshuo boss who likes to eat what啦, in which nor eat, what to taste okay? Give guidelines on boss 11. The strange thing is, online strongly admired those "Shoppes" in the guidelines issued by a female boss did not! Up until the time kids came downstairs, my homework to waste a full count - insisted to eat Western food, or to "a candle" and "romantic." I Xieni poetry poetry one pairs of Ashanti, said: You usually have to teach her what?
Xu is a different mood and feel is not dissolved into the West this evening. The lively cries, soliciting sound, there are people yelling nondescript imitation of foreigners, people think that the West has been vulgar into the Zhen Su. Mind unpleasant, so pick up the global village, the entrance off the stage consultative sorts of water licenses, while Yang side shouted: "come come, take a look at a take a look at take a look at the ah, delicious inexpensive and not very tasty free -" encroaching upon the 180 db sound. Roar out of the more comfortable, to drive out of cynical boss said, "Sir you can really generous ah", I even can already bursting out of her brilliant smile.
Global Village entrance selling cement to grow sweet and lovely young girl, I feel dejected teased her to the Falun Gong overseas Chinese from Indonesia and then to lunatic asylum, quackish sea pulling something, amused her princess laughed. The most food service girl Zhuangfengmaisha this set, 100 test bad mood. Incidentally, sets out from her mouth, batik table cloth sell for 25 yuan each message, and I again he went to arts and crafts shop next to public information relative to the other tourists hostage, forcing the boss will be priced at 65 yuan to 1.7 × 1.3 specifications of batik cloth reserve price of 25 yuan selling one to me. The young girl is ultimately impossible to cheat can cheat a batik, can be considered good result. Acid LP later that night I Pidianpidian's "happy with the tomato-like," I learned to Panyou Jun Tian face was the expression: "Bu Zhiyu, right?" Later this became the mantra we have the entire support detachment .
DAY2: Rain Penlon introduced to the proprietress opposite a petrol filling station, "Maling bearded Mi Fendian" prematurely, before he finally tasted the authentic flavor of Guilin, one of my fixation. Taste Well, well formed, I began to suspect that the proliferation of online connoisseur heinous kind words, is an irresponsible cheap great gift, or the level of their local cooks to such a miserable rotten eggs, can not bear to try?
When the downpour started, out of the city 20 years has been light rain, such as crisp. Is along the road in front of the kind mentioned in trees, rain green, what struck a chord may have been that, if time permits, I really wanted to ride a Giant, with a Jie Yuhua, playing an umbrella heaven In this green corridor in the rain and slowly walk - of course, can not bring I LP, and吼吼.
Terrace tickets have been price increases to 50 / person, LP once again disoriented, returned to the car to consult, facing a long-forgotten blink blink her big eyes with long eyelashes do so innocent. LP is an ambitious young women of the revolution, her clear-cut goal in life is to be which company's financial director, but in terms of price decisions on the forward-looking by looking back over-cautious, so I once again conclude that she has no potential for this occupation. It seems my life is destined to stir up domestic economy alone bear the burden, and oh, tired.
My vexatious was the gentle young girl overcome this ticket, is not only the Qingshanxiushui Guilin, Guangxi, younger sister that nurtured a soft heart? Was such a gentle knock, "non-Duel of it." Ad valorem bought 3 adult tickets and children to avoid - the young girl was not my skill or talent, people Price Bureau is one such requirement. However, away from home more eye-not always a bad thing, always ask, Wengeqingchu, including the various provisions and complaint phone, because when you are strolling in the scenic area, when that bad Garak from which they jump out of a person, and tell you required to accept these charges and that fees to be dumbfounded when it not? Beside the point.
Huang Luo Yao Walled paused, looking suspension bridge. And a woman came up to sell handicrafts cell Yao, want you to look at their hair, or on the family going to drink tea-oil (of course, is to pay), but did not say it online pest. Are living Well, no need to exaggerate it, so other people depicted in horror. Today, especially in this Canadian touches the record straight.
Standing under the bridge of the flood is being viewfinder, a team of foreign tourists into the lens. I do not know where it came from the courage, I yelled: "Hi, foreign friends", then came a "Hi -" a salute sound, framing box foreigners who wielded hand, several of which are not used to stumble because of reclined two steps forward, re-arm as they firmly grasp the rope, and looked nervous. Michelia I press down the shutter. I have never spoken of their low level of self-confidence and even full of fear, but this time a short exchange of greetings made me feel happy, it seems that words are out, no wonder the set of stylish oral teaching materials, "Do not to learn English, "you learn English, but don't study.
When the car is to go one more person: Guangdong Panyu, a handsome, car sat parked in two Longqiao bus up the hill halfway blocking a lot and look at the mountain "and the home Shaoguan almost", we walk down the lane, and take We ride on back to two Longqiao obtain the vehicle. Now you know how free riders in the Dragon's Back of the bar - in the scenic spot gate (Jin Zhu Zhuang Village, where we buy a ticket) insist forcing their way or can be readily compiled a "inside a friend, have bought votes" nonsense (safety and Dazhai have a replacement ticket where the gate control may not be so strict), Huang Luo Yao Village on foot to the small road, the question of how to avoid the peace of the ticket gate, I am sorry, information unavailable; if it is on the Dazhai, then to dahushan longer follow the path, you can telephone notification sent down the mountain hotel secular music can draw, playing what the phone? Excuse me, are also lacking.
2 Longqiao before the row of long queues of vehicles, ask the administrator uncle, is on the Ping Village, the other spaces do. 2 Longqiao Ping Village is only 6 kilometers on the cement road; the Dazhai to 12 kilometers, when the gravel, so Zijia You have the choice of the general peace Walled. I say that we are on the Dazhai, the uncle said that it would forward hastily crowded bar, but also other side of the command vehicle to give way to us, including the police, it makes my vanity has been a great satisfaction; uncle next to from beginning to end two water Lingling girl stood listening as we speak, leaving for the same color of the package, is a guide no doubt desperately ago, I started waving to them: "The young girl on the train soon ah, I invite you to tour guide!" both the girl smiling Shake shaking his head, appears to be safe Zhai, that moment I regret the intestines of all blue: the, what Dazhai ah, with the herd bad? At the same time with emotion: "Uncle Liao Ping Village, on which a blessing for raising such 2 Fairy?" Vision is sometimes behind the chilly, he turned a look, LP Xing Mu staring eyes, while Ashanti was his face looking at us Huaixiao both.
Lu really thrilling, when the gravel temper uneven so be it, anyway, is not I the car, but does count 185/80 of the limited capabilities to cope with the (perhaps I carefully bad, this tire let me eat the first two days foot of headaches). However, landslides along the way, but people gripped with horror: The next several days of rain, bare mountain exposed hideous appearance; road was gouged from the rock out, a number of bend, rock on the hanging overhead, risk, such as hanging wire ; on the road a few occasional fracture of brand-new rock fall, but also exacerbated such fears. The way up to, I could not even dare not press speaker.
On the road there is a hemp rope, I have time to think about has been compacted in the past. Think also felt wrong, to the rearview mirror to see where a "hemp rope" tail is the rear wheels a pressure head hoisted on high - is a snake! We are really into the mountains of the.
Reach the parking lot nearly 1 point, there is no hotel. Zz from sina see from here on to the less scenic but also one and a half hours, so they organized everyone with biscuits, snacks, milk. This precedent was opened, so that a few days after our lunch, the main way for our journey to save a lot of silver.
A pair of Age A girl walked over, asked us to stay at home. A-Mei's looks pretty normal, I am not interested. But they are feeding into the side to take care of our children, that we run out of lunch, they help us luggage. Habbo brother said, think of the mountains to see the people at home after a beautiful younger sister, I am a little distracted by; say although the farm house car much, but the capacity to receive in the end the mountains how big our hearts are not the end of the first implementation of a residence, It is always nice, right?
Then go.
Semi-Road cross the two pine, a red face sitting above the Han dynasty, surrounded by a circle beside the person, including two village cadres advised what appears to look like. We approached the former, then cop Han Chong I said a few local dialect, as if asking us where to go? Drinking a mouthful, but the voice is still soft to. That two village cadres who look like once again to persuade, listening to like, "Do not make life difficult for tourists" and the like, and then to indicate we are brisk walking. I do not want to seem too awkward, still marching leisurely pace led the women passed.
Actually there is no block cop Han dynasty meant.
This time I considered a real insight into the Guangxi good temper - and even the troublemakers are lukewarm.
"Little Pange." Zhai said Dazhai with peace, like the village a name, I have tried to call a cry.
"Eh." Turned out to be a.
"Just now the man doing?"
"They are also gold pit village, but no spots, tourists can not go, no money on the downtown chanting."
Oh ~ ~ ~ helpless.
"That gold pits with Dazhai What is the relationship?"
"Dazhai Village with our farms are villages, this area collectively referred to as gold pit."
Yuehua Jian Dazhai went to, and located in the foot of the mountain, it was said only in Zhang Yimou's films in order to see this village. If it is in Guizhou, then this place be called "Bazi," more and fertile paddy fields, farming the relatively well-off age should be counted, right? Now the development of tourism, and is difficult to say.
Wet quartzite road has been winding up. Rain Ruoyouruowu, gently wet your hair to sneak into your breath, so you feel its presence. Can be seen along the way has been terraced, and some have just turned in, and some have irrigation water, Ling can not find what feels cluttered and chaotic. Boasting a break in the local small Pange asked that the eighth day in April each year, lunar planting, it is the most beautiful terraces of the spring, when just last year, 5,1 to catch up, will have to wait until the end of May of this year.
Plow to the Village, to lead the way home and looked at the small Pange, just behind the famous Tian ladder hotels were the two floor fields covering their ladder (Tian staircase opened a branch), do not see the scenery, not good enough So to the 20 yuan baggage handling fees, transferred to the next Delight leisure village. Gracious boss, new small building, clean beds are lying, out of the window is the wave-like terraces, during the holiday season has only just 15 / bed, and we immediately stay there (although the first two days of breakfast may your dead, rice flour 4 yuan / bowl, is where the most expensive of our trip. blame not asking about the price before the before the Road, it seems not a moment to relax vigilance).
Here I would like to sum up the way Yangshuo, Longsheng, the "live": hotel here, mostly from the family of their operations, the large number of pricing freedom. So, first of all is no need to worry about sleeping on the streets, unless you want to stay at designated hotels, otherwise no need to book a room; second, in front of you will always have a higher cost of hotel, unless you think that was behind the already heavy backpack can not stand , or you really do not have much time to stay here, otherwise, until the conditions are not met all satisfactory, do not will continue to move forward to find bar.
A total of 3 Gold Pit viewing platform, from our residence is the most recent No. 1, but the road is 40 minutes to go - this is that we are adults and children with it, along the way Zhaizhai wildflowers, Doudou puppy, spend more time in more than one times. And so on up to the observation floor of the 5-point faster. Beyond that there is a panoramic view on the floor, can really have no time. And the Belvedere is the viewing platform located on the 1st, gold pit terraces are mostly pictures of those magnificent shot here, and we then stop at this.
Father was a Corps of Engineers, in the elementary school I have not had taught me to read before the contour lines, and was also strange: this mountain, saw clearly the same as Donggudui, how would there be a concave-convex, as folding over it? My father said: stand tall, can see far; aside appearances, in order to see the truth. Today, standing on the top of the mountain, looking to eradicate the weed wild tree terraces protruding lines at the ridge, in the valley at subfoveal, layer upon layer extended down the hill, as the map-like precision, this way, I think, and understand that his father, said the truth all these years, are right.
The rain has stopped, but the sky is still the largest group of large corporations in the fast-moving clouds, it looks likely that the desire to want to see terraced evening glow in vain. However, even if it's sunny, afraid to shoot any good photos - the sun behind his back downhill, with the terraces was not in one direction! The original film images that are well-known Sunrise! The contrast is absolutely no sunrise sunset so strong! I am once again playing with the digital post-processing technology swindlers via abhorrence up.
Supper in half an aisle of the beautiful floor to eat, yellow Braised chicken, bacon fried bamboo shoots, duck feet meals, but also a point of something else, but now has been credited to a little refreshing. I only remember that hotels particularly large number of wild mountains, better is that we have not heard of, that is, those who Deli, such as cabbage, etc., but also fresh dripping, and the city is quite different to sell. I was greedy allowed to point a large table vegetables, but the one child pleaded with him to eat meat, and secondly, the boss's face as if not much good-looking (green vegetables sold very cheap), broke. Even so, it is the people blindly duck feet dish endless aftertaste: fresh vegetables both at home, another grass of the astringent incense, add garlic stir-fry was just fine. This gives us a few days later at the Huaihua, in Phoenix, in all places where food has duck feet must Click here to taste, but compared with the Longsheng, and their cuisine are all rubbish.
The evening, not far from our residence hotel in front of the gold pit lit a bonfire on the ground, young men and women gathered in one, happily dance. Ying-fire was the black guy who's face bore barrels, sister, red-scarred their faces. Music is on the beach time, but does not affect everyone unrestrained enthusiasm. From the bustling metropolis, travel long distances to come to this remote little valley, which is what the spirit? This is the supremacy of the spirit of joy! Barabar Jhoom for what? Is not it to forget about the birds who do not want to remember something Mody! So they all follow the rhythm of the body twist. Fire, the trouble illusion and sweat through our young bodies, loneliness has metamorphosed into the smoke drifting towards the night sky terraces.
I became flying up.
DAY3: rain CHENG Yang got up early to get up, go down the mountain after a Shique 9:00, at the foot of the water and then delayed a clock, lunch is actually eaten in Longsheng county - one morning after a run of less than 40 km, which is with children out of trouble.
North out of Longsheng county, my troubles began: All are sharp turns rotten road, constantly fight direction, Ming Hao, shift, but also to avoid potholes, rush. Space bread shock was also good, but the brakes are too dead, bad controls, it is still not too fast when cornering. From time to time saw Guangdong brand vehicles sped south, Rulvpingdi Among them, Shenzhen, licenses are mostly for the people of the SAR can not help but speed, runaway impressed by the spirit (now is the holiday the first 2 ? days, whether they are from Phoenix south, or from the Sanjiang return, its crazy hurry the bus driver frame of mind of people to feel ashamed of Dover, such as a).
Today's goal is to channel - "the man the dog the Mountains," where the beautiful Dong Xiang, I found her looking even better than Phoenix. But the wretched road always seems to be no end in front of another wasted too much time, I can not help but hurry up, will be stepping foot throttle a little added a point force.
Ashanti to see my anxiety, Couguo head with my chat Let's talk about the beautiful northern Sichuan, beautiful Gannan, a beautiful Tibet. I am not easily be another topic of mobility, but is still in the rearview mirror to go against Ashanti cast a glance of gratitude, thanks to her savvy.
The beginning of bad road can be foreseen, but it is the end of surprises - finally embarked on a flat asphalt road, are worried about potholes in front of there I do not know how far turn, but do not want is Yimapingchuan. After coming out, roads are generally along the Liujiang in the walk, with the terrain changes, when the turbulent river when the slow, the two sides beautiful. Here is the Dong culture and tourist area, the river from time to time a seat arch bridge pier there, connected with the other side of Dongzhai. Dong people like Yishanbangshui door, in the river hills packets, Diaojiaolou row upon row, and even into one, layer upon layer and, from the telescope watching, there is still great in front of the lawn and hedges, is really a will to enjoy living people.
Makes me feel all kinds of puzzling in this Zuozuo Who built the bridge? Dong people do self-built? Not seem to take so much money; the Government's central built? Why is the design different and yet so rich ethnic characteristics?
Sha Yi town is a sign of the trip point: this is the channel north west to be the three rivers south are our antecedents - Guilin. By secondary school when the geographical concept, the three roads together, if this is a transportation hub, but never expected that, in addition to a gas station and a timber inspection station, no longer see the other buildings. Moreover, there is no fork in the road signs (which is the characteristics of northern Guangxi Hunan, followed by several days this is the case, either the absence of a roadmap, there must be another broken again is much, every fork in the road to find someone to ask the way for the total was assured), if not to the Sanjiang county back projections do not know that sand should.
CHENG Yang coincided with the 5 pm, Boasting a small bend in the Po suddenly jumped into the eyes of the. This and the Zhaozhou Bridge, the Marco Polo Bridge, the bridge par Guangji one of the four famous bridges on the so quietly standing there, silently performing their responsibilities. 5 solid stone da, anti-lived for centuries torrential erosion; 5 corridor connecting c. fir pyramid pavilion for the Dongxiang people blocked a century of wind and rain. Pavilion cornices Gao Qiao, like wings, stretch; gallery weather vigorous, as if lying Changhong Jiang. Bridge pilasters, tile eaves, carved characterization, magnificent; entire bridge magnificent, beautiful. More astonishing is that, this across the River forest wood and stone structure, 64 m-long bridge, the entire bridge without a nail or a rivet, the size of wood, cutting wood dovetail to Tenon convergence. All structures, cannot straight sets, criss-crossing, but a trace of not bad, actually Dongjia Boasting a masterpiece of wooden architecture of China's treasures. Kuo Mo-jo, 1965 Tour of this, the excitement over, praise poem reads: "Yan Lin river Boasting that the bridge was a long twenty four ten feet high searching. Re-Ling Qiao Joint Pavilion refreshing, looking out into the distance horizontal baffle. Bamboo a Kennedy victory iron, tea set Zhuo Miao Lin 10000. When will the Sanjiang Road, learning to do physical labor plow hoe. "handwriting Kebei stand bridge.
The shock of being immersed in the U.S., the two people holding purse before walking to the car.
"Master, come to visit it?"
Demo! One to see that come to sell tickets! Do not buy a ticket do not not say the bridge? The rules changed?
"No, we want to access to, will have far ah?" I'm bumbling.
"Oh, there are more than 80 kilometers then, go back to Sanjiang in front of bad road miles." The two little disappointed, but the attitude is still pretty nice.
"Is not a paved road in front of it?"
"No -, all the gravel, we have this special award sum in repair of the governor." I do not know why, 95% of the people are accustomed to the executive heads of Guangxi, known as the "governor", in fact, people are "autonomous region . "
"That's our first look at the front." We have to drive along in front of that little corner, from the rearview mirror, watching the two men disappeared in the field of vision, immediately stop and jump off to take pictures.
Discuss with the Ashanti is on the bridge, she said that does not matter, so I decided to turn around rushed to the channel, reckoned around 8:00 to go to. My myopia plus astigmatism nearly 1,000 degrees, the level of late night and stink, but the 8:00, then can still adhered to.
On the road will be car, hit right on the direction of play. Miaodao side of the road cut pile, is not high, do not care about depend on the past. The wrong decision caused the greatest problems of our journey and the whole travel plans change - "Puchi" heard, the right front wheel deflated.
Off view, to the broken wheel ripped a fingernail-size pile hole. Read off the pile, just like they are not sharp, and will not it?
"All right all right, like half an hour." I Man You confidently comforted the women began to unload jack hands.
Jack van is stuck in the door below, pressure lock, put gas release is very convenient, I have dealt with 8,9 minibuses, everyone the case.
Partial Zheliang the jack at the top contact has designed a small dish-like device, to trap the top, all the air let go, Jack received the lowest, it is still firmly stuck.
A ghost!
I hand pull, kick their feet with a screwdriver pry, Leng was taken with no success.
Ashanti is very positive, called him her husband for help and end, I also wanted me to listen to.
Why do women love to look for distress when her husband? Do not you see I'm busy? Besides, how right he described the scene?
I pretend to enthusiastically ask for help, he pretended to enthusiastically pointing a half-hearted two hung up.
Had no choice but to take someone else's jacks. Guangxi people were really pure, intercept a one stop, but no jack. Finally Nanning licenses from a Maxima on the borrowed one.
Question again: the first screwdriver is too short, "bell" did not pry off; finally pry under the "bell" screw loose bolt strut jack, also found the top to the end of the wheels off the ground yet - Maxima chassis low, optional Jack is also a short trip. I am anxious Khan came to be, not for themselves, for the delay in Nanning friend's time, we are all away from home, are in a hurry miles.
Nanning studied look at our friend's car, picked up the screwdriver went to unload the pedal on the decoration of the door. So a little more than just location, pulled out a jack.
Hurray!
Block paving bricks will be looking for Jack, energetically shaking a few wheels off the ground of. The little jack out, many thanks to be returned to people, waving good-bye. So far, Nanning friends have accompanied us over an hour. Good-hearted people ah, I wish you a safe journey home!
For a good spare tire, jack deflated, trouble again: the jack below Dianzhe brick it, too, jack does not get out again! Had no choice but since then the roof. Then I collapsed faster, and take a great effort to complete. Under the pad of bricks in the wheels, then jack pine, this finally succeeded.
It took around 3 hours!
Back to the Sanjiang already 8:30, the channel is will not go, and the first night in this bar break. Find auto repair, find hotels, bathing, today's dinner is actually only 11 to eat.
DAY4: Happy Liao Village, at the junction of three rivers located in the Guizhou-Guangxi-Hunan provinces, known as cock provinces is an important road transportation hub, which is filled with auto parts from a shop you can see it. But here is the well-developed shipping industry, auto parts stores are mostly prepared by truck tires, we have such a common van tires, spare parts actually missing.
Last night by the hotel owner with a supplement to the auto parts street tire, there is no one close, the master looked at the wound that can complement, but the hole too much, afraid to run up the pressure could not take another break. I also have this fear, they wound and ready to buy a new tire. Car is to use and can not be I'm sorry people, he will have to go about with Hankook back to original. But home is known as "Sanjiang exclusivity Hankook" sub shop, but only 70 specifications and wife kept highly advised me to buy a good 70, giving up no difference, I can not believe - why do not engage in two different manufacturers a label? Asked her the question of professional point: 185/80, R14 what indicators delegates, she can not tell. So the first two days I decided to look for another shop in the child.
Street has done here is also full of auto parts professional, specialize in batteries, there are professionals to do cushion, so the stores are numerous, a few also sell tires. We looked for a "tire in the world," a lot of brands, Hankook, it had, but all 70, making the tire more than 20 years old aunt, said Xing Sanjiang on this. That may Mei Zhe, and I intend to buy a deflated to make do with 70, but want to: Siyeyaosi and clearly, he will have to figure out What is the difference Cai Ganxin 70,80 in the end, right? On the question again last night, moved out.
Sure enough, the old aunt is very professional, said: "The 185 is a round of high-, 80 is the tire width, R14 is the diameter."
I see! That 70 count narrow tires, and 4 do not match the long-run effect will not be a problem?
Old aunt saw my hesitation, I asked the old tire extent of the damage?
"Fingernail cover such a big hole."
"Then do not buy a new one, and the next fat boy on the line where the mend."
"The pressure too much, right?"
"No problem, fat boy is a tire repair technology, our best, and 7,8 tons of heavy-duty trucks are then used to fill the end, you afraid of?"
Thank God! I hastened to please the old aunt brought me to the fat boy over there, fat boy looked a broken master place, picked up guy on the dry up. Once again, I put forward my concerns, fat boy master gentleness smile and said: "It does not matter as long as the wound does not exceed 15 cm, I could fill."
15 cm! This time I counted completely at ease.
Tire repair took around an hour, accompanied by Master Han Han fat boy's laugh, give us a lot of tire Knowledge: What is Meridian, which part of the clip wire, wire the difference between births and fetal ramie ... ... I looked at the next stood in a wire to be filled truck tires have been ci-opened on the fat boy no doubt the master of technology.
Make up is good, 20.
Had intended to spend 300 yuan to buy a new tire solution, the last 20 yuan fixed up. This is the era of the lack of moving elements, but at the moment I still feel an upsurge of ups and downs, for the loss of business goodwill to help others prefer the old aunt, in order to have superior skills to stay obscure hill town business travel services for the past master of the fat boy. Friends remember these two names: "Tire World" and "fat boy tire repair," the future, what is wrong with the car passing through three rivers, although rest assured that ask them to help; even if not, please give me a good band.
Waved goodbye, let's step journey.
East, 13 km away from the Sanjiang county and found a magnificent suspension bridge, spanning large, unprecedented (Oh, running a small pier, have not seen major rivers, Xiuguaixiuguai). Dong-style suspension bridge remains - wind and rain bridge built pavilion, the pavilion on a plaque, a letter to "Liao Village, iron chain bridge." Going up the bridge, the foot of the river flows east, the bridge breeze Xu, the two sides of Castle Peak right out, Shino Grass delicious. The other side Liao Village, seems vaguely heard laughter and affects our footsteps.
Bridge, village.迎面就是小学的操场,全村的男女老少大概都来了,投篮、抛乒乓球、台球、吹蜡烛、盲人击鼓,各自排着长长的队伍轮候,奖品只是那种5公斤一大包的杂色糖果,但简单而快乐的满足却荡漾在孩子们圆嘟嘟的脸上和老人们眼角恣意扩展的鱼尾纹里。一个暌违了十多年的古老词汇从记忆里翻出——游园晚会,那是多么快乐的节日啊!想不到,在物欲横流的今天,“金不笑,银不笑”,职位的升迁和资产的膨胀已难以真正带来心灵的满足,能长久滋润我们心田的,竟是那遥远的关于简单快乐的记忆。
追求物质使我们不开心,但是,没有物质,有我们今天“千里来寻开心”的休闲游吗?我看看肩挎的高档相机,摸摸兜里的私家车匙,迷惑了。
莫管它,且乐去!回过神来,孩子们手里已多了几颗糖,急着到另一个摊位排队去了。这种廉价的奖品比她们平日里在城市享用的五花八门的零食低档不知多少倍,但她们却咂得心满意足——真正的快乐是不分年龄段、可以感染所有人群的。
我加入到吹蜡烛的行列,鼓了满满的一肚子气,却从豁了的门牙处漏个清光,“扑”地一声,五支烛火纹丝不动,整个队伍哄堂大笑起来。笑得最灿烂的就是我,因为豁了门牙而平时笑不露齿的我,此刻的爽朗足以让上帝感到嫉妒——无须遮掩什么的快乐是发自内心的。
玩了一个多小时,我们才依依不舍地离开廖村。 LP担心赶路的时间不够,埋怨我耽搁了太长时间。我开导她:“自游人最妙处就是自由嘛,哪好玩哪停步,充分享受旅途的乐趣,这才是驴子的干活;跟着导游的大喇叭死赶紧赶,到了景点你拥我挤地抢镜头,完了马上又赶赴下一个'著名'景点,回到家才去照片上回味旅游,那是鸭子的干活。对不对阿珊?”阿珊连忙摆手:“你决定吧,我无所谓。”嘿嘿,没主见,我喜欢。
三江上通道的路也是一路急弯,只是路况比昨天从龙胜出来的那一段好很多。看着底盘低的小轿车一骑绝尘而我们却不得不在急弯处减速,我不禁怀念起我的千里马来。
尽管训LP时摆出一付革命导师的架势,但事实上我们真的浪费了很多时间——离开廖村时已经是上午11点多了,所以,原定在阳烂古寨会合暨大校友吃合拢宴的节目和古夜郎国皇城之行只好取消,而且一过通道进入平路,马上加速一路急驰。路边有种象绣球的花,开得满树都是,落英缤纷,铺得柏油马路一片雪白,很有樱花的凄美,但都来不及细看,至今仍引以为憾。
进入会同,大标语横跨马路:“欢迎来到粟裕同志的故乡”;车过洪江,又是一条标语:“欢迎来到滕代远同志的故乡”。看来湘西人民很以他们这里诞生的大英雄为傲,但我的脑海却不自觉地浮现出一个恶毒的想法:穷山恶水出刁民。噢噢,亵渎先辈,掌嘴掌嘴。
一路过来还有很多奇怪的标语:“不让女孩上学是违法行为”,让人觉得辛酸;“溺毙女婴犯罪,政府依法追究”,则又触目惊心(有一点不明白:在这山野乡村使用“溺毙”一词,有人看得懂?);“局长书记样板路”,则仿佛让人回到了上个世纪的70年代。
在洪江县城还看到一幕有趣的婚礼:司仪手一挥,鼓乐齐鸣,既不是西方的婚礼进行曲,也不是中式的满堂红,而是电视里常见的秧歌曲,新郎新娘带头开步,后面三列秧歌队披红挂绿,将秧歌一扭,整条街道为之热闹起来。这样的婚庆服务在我们看来实在是新鲜,连婚车也不用借,省了多少人情债。不过,雇请这样的服务,您得有一定的心理准备,除了MONEY得花一些外,你还得有足够坚强的胃神经——那些最年轻也是大婶级的秧歌队员,把胭脂水粉往脸上一抹后的效果,别人看着怎么样不知道,反正我是差点连去年吃的都吐出来了。
三江——通道——靖州——会同——洪江——中方——怀化,过了靖州已基本没有什么山路,中方到怀化的一段更是准高速,不过不是封闭的,勇敢的湘西人民喜欢在路中间骑行或缓步走,在这开车您可千万别相信喇叭的力量,多用刹车吧。
城市规划各有各的特点:广州象一只蝌蚪,北京象蜘蛛网,昆明象乌龟,三亚象牙签,到怀化是下午6点半,没买到地图,不知怀化象什么,但感觉似一根长长的筷子——沿着××路(忘路名了)往前开,竟一直没有尽头。沿路的饭店没有一家门口停车超过2辆以上,令我们的广东觅食经验在这里无所适从。后来终于看到一家停了有6辆车,兴奋地冲进去,却发现原来是有人在摆喜酒,出品其实并不突出。又上当,徒呼奈何?
吃完饭是8点,过了我开夜车的极限。而且,此去凤凰还有94公里的山路,预计没有3个小时拿不下来。先去的同事发来短信劝慰,说大巴司机只需1个半小时。那是人家,我们没那水平,不敢冒险。 “时间诚宝贵,生命价更高”,我还要把这支娘子军安全带返广东呢,于是决定住下。亲戚把我们带到金苑宾馆,交警支队开的,说这样比较安全,一句话说得我们心里对怀化的治安感到丝丝凉意。
今天是农历三月十六,姣好的月光挂在东窗上。来前深圳的一位网友建议我们逆向而行,当时若是采纳他的意见,现在该是坐在龙胜的山顶上欣赏梯田月色了。念及此,我轻叹一声,把手中的强光电筒指向怀化的夜空,胡乱地晃着。
DAY5:恶俗凤凰读从文先生的《边城》,心中有一种绝望:那么清的意境,那么醇的氛围,渲染着水墨一般的行云流水;那无法企及之美,象一位不可追求、遗世独立的佳人,令人因无望而生出不尽的惆怅和无穷的感伤。只有小学五年级学历的先生,却用天赋的醇厚优美的文字,为单薄的中国现代文学史,留下了“湘西”这一至为精美的一页。
沈老笔下的边城其实是指茶峒,在凤凰西北174公里,但不管知道的不知道的,大家都似乎更愿意相信她是凤凰。
眼前的凤凰也是让人绝望的:沱江水依旧清澈澄明,但近了看,水下沉着啤酒瓶子、鱼刺、鸡骨、抹布儿;水面盛开着老庄饭店贡献的油花,在阳光下泛着五彩斑斓渐欲迷人眼的光芒;水气中带着与饭店后巷积水里相似的腥馊味,令本欲一亲芳泽的我们顿时敬而远之。虹桥边几架据说是最原始的吊脚楼,稀疏、破旧而灰暗,如同黑瘦的小脚女人,可怜地站在江边,被更多群涌而出的簇新木楼围困着,愈发显出坚持的零丁与困窘。这里已没有边城里古朴坚实的船,没有黄永玉笔下红焰一样燃烧的花,没有彩蝶般斑斓的苗装,没有天真无邪的翠翠的容颜,有的只是我们这些熙熙攘攘由俗世中来,梦想寻找桃花源的游客。于是乎,一直存在心里的那个美丽的幻象,如同一只精美绝伦的花瓶,一下被现实击个粉碎。
我们是上午10点到的。出发前按同事的提示给望江楼打了个电话,说有房;问及房价,却说要问旅行社。接电话的是位大爷,夹杂着浓重乡音的普通话听得我们十分费劲,最后总算弄明白了个大概:客房已全数包给当地旅行社,要打给旅行社才知道当天定价和有无空房安排。好在大爷报数目字还算清晰,我们便按他给的号码拨通了湘西铁旅田小姐的电话,她答应在望江楼给我们留2间房,房价60/床。
落实了住处,心里便踏实起来。在虹桥边一个工地停好车,收费的便上来了,20元,贼贵。走上拥挤的虹桥,两边已给各色的小卖部占领,空气中弥漫着再世俗不过的味道,让我恍如回到15年前广州区庄立交的走鬼墟。在这看风景已不可能,那必须到2楼去,是要收费的。眼看一位发烧友背着足有80升的器材袋,噌地冲了上去,后面跟着漂亮的女助手,肩上硕大的摄影包怕也装得下3台机子。专业装备看得我目瞪口呆,但随即又生出一丝苦笑:就这样脏乱的环境,以他们的专业手法,加上后期加工,怕也不难制作出什么恋恋凤凰之类的作品来,这下不知又有多少人上当受骗了。
虽然冷空气刚过,但走在正午的阳光下还是有些燠热,周遭的人群和互不相让的车辆更是令人烦躁。我领头往西边走,LP和阿珊都先后质疑走错路了,但都被自诩方位感良好的我喝止,直到见到越来越多的现代建筑,直到买了一份凤凰地图,看过,我才很不情愿地承认:“好吧,我们好象走错了,古城在那边……”
回到虹桥附近找到了田小姐和她的旅行社,不想因她的同事疏忽,原来留给我们的房间已卖掉,我们一下子成了游魂野鬼。阿珊不干了,当场撒泼,慌得田小姐立马带我们到另一处更高档些的客栈——沐曦园,房价仍按原来的算。这下旅行社算是白干了,因为后来从老板处证实,他们跟旅行社签的价格就是60,如不是意外,旅行社该卖80的。
这有干净的小院,和气的一家人,尤其是屋顶的凉台,八面来风,不徐不急,坐在小竹椅上,连平日正午准时来访的睡意都消失得无影无踪,想想今晚能在这把盏闲话,真是人生一大乐事。不知望江楼那边环境怎样,也许离沱江会近一些,沐曦园则是建在面向沱江的山坡地上的,但也能看到水,空气似乎还更好些。阿珊一边以不在水边为由,继续发飙,跟田小姐砍价,一边给我打来眼色,那眼里分明写着“我愿意!”这下田小姐也惹毛了,跟阿珊顶撞起来,我连忙让LP把房款付了,莫让这仅剩的一点好心情也搞坏。田小姐收了钱,仍不忘念叨几句自己也没什么大错,旅行社这次吃亏了之类的。唉,湖南人的脾气,跟广西人比还是差了一截,难怪广东的服务业都爱请广西妹子做服务员。
要说我们住的这个山坡地还有点名堂,叫南华山国家森林公园,不过海拔只有500多米,举步可达,老板说凤凰人常上去晨运。 500米已算国家级?嘿嘿,倒是少见。
老板问我们从哪来,我便又动了跟他开玩笑的心思。
“她滴,印尼;她,马来西亚;我滴,不闹杜拉;小滴,拐来滴。”
“哦哦,来凤凰旅游啊?”
Nonsense!不旅游我来开会啊?看来老板不是个会机变的人——那套接待台词怕是背熟了的。
“不,我们来开会。法轮功世界华人联合会,知道吧?今天来借你这方宝地开个年会。你可以打110告我们,把我们抓住你就发财了,一个起码几十万。不过你最好打到州里,靠凤凰这几百号人是搞不定我们的……”
“几十万?有个几千块我就把你卖了。”LP在旁嗤道。 Everyone laughed.
“别说你,我也想把自己卖了……”我嗫嚅道,心里直恨LP搞串了个PARTY。
老板姓啥忘了,土家人;他爱人姓滕,苗家人。沐曦园这块地当年他们是3000块钱盘下来的,现在的市价大概是18万。我盘算了一下,约2500/平方米,比我们顺德的商品房用地还略微便宜些。加上建好、装修,估计在40—50万之间就能拿下。 50万这样一幢傍山小楼,懒洋洋地住着,再腾出一层出租,旺淡相济,平均月收入当有7200元,就可以舒舒服服地过日子了,岂不比在广东打白领工好得多?我和阿珊连忙打听还有地卖否,老板笑着摇了摇头。
后来我们打听到,老板其实是当地工商分局的局长,应该还是有办法的。哪天要是真在这边呆不下去了,就再去找他,非得让他帮忙给找块地不可。
就这样在凉台上说说笑笑,不觉就到了下午2点,大家这才觉得有点饿了,于是信步来到沱江边上的凤凰潘长江饭店。据说这是经潘长江本人授权的全国唯一的一家潘长江商号,老板杨光明,跟潘长江长得很象,如果你看过毕福剑的《梦想剧场》,就一定记得他——就是三个假潘长江中长得最象的那个,比潘本人还矮那么一点。我们到的时候他正好在店门口关照生意,听我们说起《梦想剧场》,还呲开大板牙冲我们一笑。名人哦,受宠若惊。
血粑鸭子真的名不虚传,但饭店的环境就实在不怎么样,木地板上积着厚厚的油垢,脚一抬便是“揭”的一声,菜渣、纸巾、一次性塑料杯扔得满地都是,桌上还淌着汤汁汽水。有人说下馆子不能参观厨房,这里是连正堂都看不得,看了你就吃不下。我们只好把目光投向窗外不远处的虹桥,好让翻腾的胃喘一口气。
虹桥的桥洞下站着2个身穿民族服装的姑娘,我对服装是没有研究的,只是觉得她们穿的很象哈尼族服装——哈尼服装秀气而不张扬的包头,以及对少女曼妙身材恰倒好处地哄托的剪裁,给我留下很深的印象,那是我除白族外唯一能一眼就能认出的民族品牌了。
每当沱江上有游船经过,2位姑娘便唱起山歌来。有的我们连听都听不懂,估计是苗歌;有的则耳熟能详——电影《刘三姐》中的插曲,20多年前我们就会跟着哼唱了。一曲唱罢,2位姑娘还会平举前臂,翻掌晃动,向游客致意。这个招牌动作不知是谁首创的,我觉得它充满了民族性,比我们平时惯用的曲臂挥手要俏皮、活泼得多,由身着民族服装的姑娘做出来,最让人赏心悦目。
但是,穿着外乡的服装,唱着外乡的山歌,却楞要装出个“本湘特色”来,这种貌似成熟的旅游运作就实在是恶俗了。有人说包括凤凰,很多原本淳朴、宁静的世外桃源都变得商业化了,而商业化就意味着千方百计地致富。我并不是反对凤凰人民奔小康,也没有资格对凤凰的商业化说三道四,我想告诉各位的只是:凤凰已经不是过去的那只凤凰,不是我们在图片中,在散文里领略的那个唯美的凤凰了,这里现在到处充斥着伪民俗和泛民俗,那些原生性、异质性的东西,已经被经济势力以奔小康的名义,短视地放逐了。
饭后向跳岩走去。跳岩是沱江上2排并列的水泥墩子,行人可由此过江,也不妨碍江水流动,比建桥便宜多了。望文生义,原以为跳岩必是江上一系列露出水面的巨石,行人过江须跳跃前进,不想水泥墩子的间隔还小于成年人的正常步幅,施施然过之可也。此时跳岩上挤满了南来北往的游客,偶尔有人停下拍照,即招来后面人群起劲的倒彩,内中还夹杂着一两句不文明的问候。大多数人来凤凰都没有别的目的,只是想来此发发呆,享受几天宁静,可有网友驳斥道:现在已没有发呆的凤凰,只剩扎堆的麻雀。看眼前此景,信哉斯言。
有恶俗的凤凰,自然就有恶俗的游客:江北的流浪者酒吧是一个著名的去处,我们经过时,门口铺着一张草席,坐着一对狗男女,奇怪的服装,奇怪的发型,我原本指望能在他们眼中看到一点后现代主义的颓废或空洞,但没有,有的只是斜睨天下目空一切的做作,跟谁较劲?江南的“素”咖啡是另一个著名的去处,地方浅窄,人头涌动,一趟玻璃门勉强隔开内外两个世界,我们经过时,紧挨玻璃门的位置上坐着一个大脑壳,那形象十足青蛙的前半生,看那傻B不过二十四、五岁光景,偏偏叼着个硕大的烟斗在作沉思状,当时胃里立马有一种反刍的感觉。做给谁看?
再也没心思逛下去了,女人们要去租苗装照相,我独自一人回客栈休息。头沾枕头却又睡不着,我便又上到凉台上。这时其他客房仍然没有客人——据说是张家界过来的路上出了重大交通事故,很多车过不来——凉台便被我一个人独占,找把竹椅坐下,以平时在办公室午休的那种姿势靠着,闭上眼,呼吸着凉风带来的江面上的水气和午后阳光的气息,不知不觉地便睡着了。醒后扭扭僵硬的腰板,感叹:终于找回一点渡假的感觉。
夜游沱江,我们买了一大堆的烧烤和啤酒,听老船夫讲凤凰的故事。月光从东面升起,一点一点地漫过水面,照得沱江波光粼粼的,一派清朗之象。沱水东去汇入洞庭,这使我想起了张孝祥那首著名的《过洞庭》:“玉鉴琼田三万顷,着我扁舟一叶。素月分辉,明河共影,表里俱澄澈。悠然心会,妙处难与君说。”在这片通往洞庭湖的水面上,我的思绪飞回到800多年前,仿佛正与词人一道,面对着万里烟波,无边风月,竟不觉看得呆了。
“想什么呢?”回首看时,在酒精的作用下,LP和阿珊笑靥如花。
良辰,美景,赏心,乐事。我轻扣船舷,“不知今夕何夕。”
DAY6:翻越雪峰天险在湖南地图上,雪峰只是很小的一点,不注意看就跳过去了。只有赶到山脚下,看到交警立的警示牌“雪峰天险,请小心驾驶”而不再是“前面陡坡急弯,请小心驾驶”等套话时,才令人惊觉“雪峰”这两个字不是乱盖的。
回怀化接上岳母——她在几个子女家轮流住,从老家出来已经几个月了;LP是幺姑娘,也嫁得最远,所以最后才轮到我们。出发前向亲戚问路,很奇怪,地图上明明标示320国道是东出怀化,经铁坡、黄茅园再到塘湾的,可亲戚们异口同声地说那是老国道,路况不好;应该往南到中方,经安江、雪峰到塘湾,这才是新国道。我手拿的可是04版新地图啊,会错?但想想人家是当地人,而且网友介绍也是走的雪峰,便不敢不向经验屈服。
想不到安江一个镇会是那么的繁华,进城前横跨沅江的大桥也十分雄伟,那绝对是一个县城的气派。我问收费站上的工作人员,他沉吟了一会,答曰是一个镇,我还想再问下去,后面的车已不耐烦地按喇叭催了,只好打住。回去要查一下,我估计安江镇应该是洪江县的老县城。
过了安江便进入雪峰山区,那是横亘在怀化和邵阳地区之间的一列山脉,主峰苏宝顶海拔1934米。目测路况比我们前几日走的山区路还要好些,只是好象没那么宽,会车时总有点心惊肉跳的感觉;还有一点我们的眼睛没看出来,但车子却感觉到了——坡特别陡,发动机发出了老牛喘气般的声音,即使减档也没什么改善。是空气稀薄燃烧不充分?不到2000米的高度好象又不至于吧。真搞不懂。
不但陡,而且弯很急。跟一辆粤B牌的皇冠3.0怄气,踏死油门就是不松,但几次入弯都听到异响,声音不大却很清晰,这是前面走山区路时所没有的。后来明白是侧倾咬胎时,连忙把车速降下来,随3.0超过去,但已惊出一身冷汗——下车看胎边花纹已磨平,万一速度再快点咬不住,一个甩尾,我们便要葬身这万丈深渊了!
弯不但急,而且还多。眼看前面有2辆江西牌的昌河北斗星,贴得花花绿绿的是旅行车无疑,想赶上去搭个伴,刚拐过一个弯,加油,追!速度还没提起来,又一个弯到了,只好又减速。因此,只看得它俩就在前面,却怎么追都追不上。
沿路有几个点立着“血字碑”,上书“×年×月×日在此发生重大交通事故,死亡××人,伤××人”等,让人触目惊心。这些碑约有一半立在急弯处,我们经过时仓促间并无暇细看,只隐约见一刺眼的“血”字;另一半则立在急弯过后较平缓的直路上,向后人揭示着“平原跌死马”的可悲。
“血字碑”更坚定了我绝不停车的决心。我让状况好的阿珊关照着,把塑料袋准备好,谁晕车就递上去,一律在车上搞定——在这又窄又弯的山道上停车,万一碰上个开英雄车的,闹不好我们就给他殉葬了。我们都是小人物,不愿意跟英雄的名字粘在一起,也犯不着死后还让政府破费给立碑纪念。
从雪峰到洞口有70公里,但冲下一个长长的缓坡,在路边重又看到庄稼的时候,我知道我们虽未出山,但已经胜利翻过雪峰天险了。回望那弯弯的山道上,缓行的车辆却是以俯冲的姿势下坡时,不禁生出一种“回看射雕处,千里暮云平”的豪迈。
一路过来见到不少路桥公司的队伍在驻场施工,衡怀高速正在一天一个面貌地推进着,也许不出2年,过往商旅便可以舒适地驾乘在崭新的高速公路上,指发可至,雪峰天险可成为历史名词矣。而我们这次有幸一闯雪峰,亲历其中的惊心动魄,也就敢放言今后可挑战任何一条山区公路了。
说时快,那时迟,经过洞口、隆回,在周旺铺接上高速公路时,已经是下午5点,看来今晚要赶到郴州的计划又要落空了。我略作思考,决定跳过邵阳到邵东过夜——小县城的消费水平总该比市里低些吧?但不成想我们又低估了湖南的城建水平——那规模,那人气,比佛山、中山还不敢说,但比起我们顺德那绝对是不遑多让的。这是湖南除安江外给我们的又一个惊喜。
选了一家热闹非凡的“湘里人家”用晚餐。原以为是有人摆喜酒,可总不见新郎新娘,便拽住小妹问。小妹说没人摆酒,她们这天天都那么热闹。
小妹的脸带一点天生的BABY FAT,一双忧郁的大眼睛总是望着自己的脚尖,很象我当初蓄谋已久,壮志未酬的一位女同事,属我见尤怜的那种类型。我跟阿珊打赌我能逗笑她,阿珊不信。
“小妹,老家哪里的?”我搭讪。
“隆回。先生您有什么事吗?”
“啊没有,我也是隆回的,咱们是老乡哦。”
小妹没搭话,照旧看着脚尖。
“你叫什么名字?”我又换了个方式。
“我姓乐,音乐的乐。”
“噢,她也姓岳。”我故作惊讶,手指老丈母娘,“叫岳母。”
“我姓吕。”然后再作一本正经状,慢条斯理地说:“叫吕婿。”
小妹转过身以手抿嘴,而阿珊她们已经是笑得东歪西倒了。
饭后就近住下。今天因为多了丈母娘,便多开一个房间,我一个人住。连开6天车,颈后酸酸涨涨的,LP让我叫房间服务,找人上来按摩一下,之后便回房休息了。我没干——人家越是信任,我们越要自觉,这是我做人的一贯宗旨。是不是有点欲盖弥彰的味道?嘿嘿我也觉得有点;但有动机却没实施并不构成犯罪哩,就凭这一点,咱还该算在革命同志的阵营里吧?
DAY7:狗日的衡阳对衡阳并无天生的成见,实是2次入衡阳所见所感,令人不得不发出这种恶毒的诅咒。
邵阳到衡阳是110KM,很好的路。想想个把小时后就可以上京珠高速一路飞驰回家,不禁有点兴奋,油门便踏得紧了些。
在进入衡阳市前还有个衡阳县,看到路边停着辆警车,我犯了嘀咕:不是测超速的吧?毕竟前不久才在江门着过道。但一路过来遇到那么多警车,每辆都减速我们还用走的?就这样,还没权衡清楚我们已经呼啸而过了。
前面不远处就有警察把我们截了下来,假惺惺地敬个礼,“同志,对不起,你超速了。”旁边空地上一溜儿的广东车。
路面限速是对的,毕竟出了事交警同志的压力会很大;但限速标准怎么定我们不知道,象一些中心城区经常是限速20KM,假如大家都遵守这个规则的话,想想看,整个城市都是20KM爬行的乌龟壳,那个城市的交通怕是要瘫痪了。因此,法律上一套标准,道德上一套标准,这个司机知道,交警也知道。而衡阳交警公然违背默契,不遵“道德”和“行规”,在黄金周的最后一天上路拦截归心似箭的回程车,而且还全部是广东车,这就明显不是为整治交通秩序,而直接有敛财之嫌了。
不过,不管怎么说,我们确实是违章了,这点我们承认,也认罚,此时最怕的只是扣证而已。听拦路的胖交警说交了罚款就放行,心下当即轻松了一大半。阿珊拿出教师证求情,胖子沉吟了一阵,正准备向他们的头儿请示,开罚单那边突然喧闹起来,原来是一辆汕头车求情不成,发起脾气来,继而引起群情汹涌:
“我们是来投资的,又不是来玩的,有你们这样对待投资者的吗?”(汕头车)
“下次你们衡阳到香港招商,看我不唱衰你们啊哪!”(香港车)
“你看看人家邵阳,有你们这样对外地车的吗?穷疯了吧?”(深圳车)
“是啊,占着那么好的(地理)位置,要给我们广东人经营早发了,用得着你们这种下三滥手段?”(广州车)
“眼红!狗急了跳墙呗!”(南海车)
“是啊是啊,拦的全是广东车,你们湖南的就没超速?那辆那辆,它车速多少?说啊,说啊!”(肇庆车)指的是一辆呼啸而过的湘牌大客,车速多少我们说不准,但若说比我慢那就打死我都不信。
“谁说只拦广东车的?你们想干什么?”交警中一个黑大个装汹作势地撸了撸袖子,伸出手指来戳戳点点。没想到这引起了我们更加激烈的情绪——不同的是:假如说刚才还只是有些气愤的话,那现在简直就是兴奋了。
“来,来,有种的动动我试试!”
“你叫什么名字?咦,你的工号牌呢?没有工号牌你们就上路拦车?知道你们是真的假的?”
“对,对!拍下来,拍下来!小赵快去把照相机拿下来!”
“我姨夫是全国人大代表,正愁没事干呢,这下有你们好看的了!”此话真实性要打个大大的问号,但却有立竿见影之效——交警的嚣张气焰立马就压了下去。那个叫小赵的拿着照相机四下追着交警照,嘴里还很有礼貌地叫着:“先生,请你把脸转过来一下。”可交警全都用手挡着脸,狼狈得四处逃窜,就跟看电视一样。
感谢上苍,尔等小民还有个人大制度作保护。
一场闹剧以我们的心理斗胜告终,衡阳交警则赢得了实质胜利——为了赶路,我们实在没有时间跟这些鳖缠斗下去。开了罚单,依照指示,我们赶到了县城里的“交通违规处罚中心”。
这里才是最气人的。
收据一式三联,揭起一联,垫张复写纸,再揭起一联,再垫张复写纸;掏出钢笔,拔下笔帽,看看不对,又插回到上衣口袋;然后在桌面上摸索,终于在报纸底下找到圆珠笔,看看笔尖,不知有什么脏物,又抓起报纸揉揉;摆好架势准备开写,忽然想起什么,向邻座做了个两指并拢的手势,邻座抛了根烟过来;拉开抽屉左翻右翻,没找到打火机,最后是旁边走关系进来加塞等候处理的车主讨好地帮忙给点着;抽着烟拿起笔准备写了,手机又响……
以上是开票员开一张收据前的标准动作,还是标准的慢动作,不同的是这次是讨烟,下次是讨口香糖;这次是找圆珠笔,下次是找烟灰缸。最绝的是别看这鳖五大三粗,干起活来却翘起个莲花指姐手姐脚的,十分美艳动人,下次哪位导演拍《满清都太监》,请他当主角绝对合适。
这位太监搞完了,就把收据缓缓地推到桌子中缝,不知在等什么,看得我们一愣一愣的。好半晌,桌子那边的鳖才慢慢拈起收据,看一眼,“一百!”我们连忙把罚款数目递进去,那鳖却不收钱,而是把钞票和收据又推回到桌子的这边来,我们又一愣。这边的太监则把刚刚由他自己亲手开出的收据以阅读中央文件的严谨精神再审视一遍,这才把钱收入抽屉,施施然地盖上章,然后……又推过那边去!那边那鳖再检视一番,叫名,才把收据和罚单递出来,“回现场取证!”
I rely on!
好吃懒做不事稼穑只识上路劫道敛财,只是我们确实违章在先,也就认了;
敛就敛吧,还不肯现场处理,非要我们跑上一段去个什么“处罚中心”,真是“既要做婊子又要立牌坊”,不过人要脸树要皮,立就立吧,我们也认了;
可你“处罚中心”好歹算是个政府窗口部门,这样慢吞吞磨叽叽的是个什么工作态度什么服务形象?这样的态度和服务能迎来客人和投资?
衡阳人好象就是这德行,上回路过投宿,厕所堵了通知服务员来修,当时她正啃着一个苹果,意味深长地看着我。我说“诶你听到没有?”猜她是怎么答复我的? “你没看到我正在吃苹果吗?你不知道边吃边整厕所会很恶心的吗?如果放下苹果先给你整苹果就会'生锈'就会浪费浪费可耻你不知道吗?”
I rely on!什么人啊?
所以有钱的朋友千万别到衡阳投资,那真是花钱买罪受。真的!
办完出来,和阿珊长长地舒了一口气,以为这下可以走了。才上车,留在现场休息的LP打来了电话:
“快,快,他们要走了!”
“去哪里?撤岗还是换哨?”
“不知道……诶,诶,你们去哪里……他们不理我呀!”
“拦住他们啊!”
“车已经开了。”电话那边已带着哭腔。
我当时是真火了——存心不让爷走不是?好,老子今天还就不走了!今儿个不是休息吗?爷让你衡阳县县太爷也休不成!
我们赶回现场接人,问明警车是向县城方向开的,立马又杀回到“处罚中心”。
“喂!你们的同事撤场了,我们的证上哪儿拿去?”我把罚单往柜上一拍,恶狠狠地说。心里想着如果你们不马上把他们CALL回来,老子立马就带着这群娘们上县衙撒泼去!
那厮接过罚单看了看,然后在抽屉里翻了一阵,便把我的驾驶证甩了出来,临了还阴阳怪气地加了一句:“人家都下班回来了,谁叫你们那么慢的?”
我靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠靠啊! ! !衡阳啊衡阳,你这狗日的衡阳,老子这辈子要是再踏上你这一步,再在你这花一分钱,爷就是他母亲的那个养的! ! !
带着这种恶劣的心情,我们闷闷不乐地回到了广东。加完最后一次油后,LP把总帐算出来了:2400KM,7天开销总共4500,人均才900块钱!但这并没有让我快乐起来;阿珊拿出活络油亲自给我按摩颈椎肩背,很舒服,但也没有让我快乐起来;佛山大道温暖的街灯在雨雾中亮起,到家了!可我仍然无法快乐,我还在想着衡阳,想着多年以后,如果有人对我提起它,我该怎样去评价?
想来想去,我只想到了一个字——
Bah! ! !
Author: hxj41