Last night's bar, we had a Duxing Ke, who came to Phoenix trance and sleep. We invited him to go with the 1000 Lake, he was to return to the city but can not go. But the left, are still boast to us that a good morning a few days ago, he saw the misty rain in the Tuojiang empty deceive. It made me slightly had some jealousy. However, God did the United States, after overnight rain.
Rain is a light rain to affect the trip. Phoenix Road, sit in the new car to the mountain river, this time the rain stopped. The car to go very far, two Shui Po on the bridge on. Gray bridge had just been washed, which held out little Tuojiang pure ash. The river such as the turquoise-like color, not far from the corner to the bridge before, Shui has been stifled. Corner water-blocking is not the terraces, is on the hill. The foot of the block upright in the water prior to reconcile with Cuise the Tuo, gently fog blurred the color boundaries. Could not help but take a deep breath, cool air will bring all the beauty of my body. Over the bridge, look back at my companion, and she seemed to doze off. I Qiexi, but also an exclusive fun.
Dealers for one hour to reach mountain river. We are going to get off the front seat suddenly fellow back, and asked us: "tourism? You to go to the market? Careful thieves." That's a very serious look, which makes us feel a little unexpected. When we fascinating stats, he following car go far. Get off at the fork in the road, right of the road that leads to the Miao museum, but also to the 1000 lake road. Mountain Town does not look good, out of the town along the way slope, the right side of the trench is the rice paddies, cattle, and V plow the rice fields of the villagers as two insect walking slowly. After a paddy field of the Castle Peak, Manshan out layers of terraced fields.
Gone through a paved road, a scene change, to both sides of the mountains about two separate 1000 Lake in the ravine where the Pass. The house is yellow, covered with oblique eaves of the gray tiles, from the foot of the ladder rises up the mountainside. Quiet from afar is very, very is an attractive option. We would also like sand through a gravel road to get to the village. Follow this path, we must look authentic wondering the Hmong flower drum, eat a pure miaojia meal, but also to buy a few catties Hmong silver rice wine and listen to the countryside of Hunan story.
We are full of fantasy line Dao Cunkou, to this point, or a voice of praise. Praise sights, praise Hmong simple, keen on such a harmonious life. But then the scene was like rock to pound myself. I suddenly wake up to how ignorant our praise.
Rain making the road enters the village, became very difficult, cow dung, pig manure mixing with the mud spread on the steps of the village road, occasional Zhuzai come and go freely. There is no trace of the soil air fragrance, only the livestock Sao fishy taste. Hope Primary School came a sound reading.
An entrance hallway, master Shen Chutou point of view, he did not understand how come a stranger. We are busy with his answer, ask where they have wine to sell, they ask the village situation. He invited us to go sit in the shade. Finally we came to the coveted Hmong home. I have to slowly and said: welcome to my darkness, the eyes adapt to see clearly after the ground is uneven potholes loess. How many pieces from thick wooden pillars support the high roof, Wong Nai side brick wall and the roof did not have several locations connected together to fill the vacancies in the local straw. No lights, is the source of these gaps. We sat on small stools and the host chat. Owner arrested and Yan Gan, lit a bag of smoke. Wasp shuttle in the smoke. The dialogue is very difficult to concentrate in order to understand each other, what we have said very little, but there are a few I am very clear, he said: "This village is full of Hmong, a Miao Village. Where poor, backward and poor." Again asked us come from. Companion told him that from Beijing, he would A: Oh. Beijing. "Then again inhale his smoke. Companion is a girl to see not so dilapidated, they asked me not to leave. I thought, without the consent Hmong, but also turn a few laps in the house, the details of his family To my surprise, but I even have nothing to say and then leave. I wanted to continue to look at in the village, but the companion has really wanted to leave, a step no farther.
Out of 1000 Village did not get rice wine, I did not see singing and dancing. Inquiries into the mountains there are reservoirs, so decided to sit waterside. Reservoir is a lake on a hilltop, this belt terraces are irrigated by the reservoir. Water is still suffused with Xiangshui unique blue. Sitting quietly beside the lake, I find myself increasingly unable to read the Xiangxi in the world. Shen Congwen with the world a different, more different from their travels Mix.
In the tourist heart, the Phoenix is a place where my dreams. We come from afar, by a river, but also borrowed Diaojiaolou, and then built a base of city people - bar, where a daze, relax, and then down the river find the legendary. To listen to a Vampire, playing a trick of the process, take a look at Hmong song and dance dress, ask the bandit story, to taste duck blood DCB, finally picked up Shen's article some control. So we contented return to the city and resumes where there romantic, cozy one, or you can not even people, said: "The Western Hunan Cultural touched me!." Or complain about: "Tuo have been better than previously, and people are increasingly smooth." On the kind of world perfect, but it is misinterpreted, and is difficult to say whether this deliberately to create a world of hypocrisy, but it is the most popular world.
However, for locals, the western Hunan is another look. They look at this cozy river, you said to him: so beautiful. He replied: "General Well." They beat the water in the clothes, punting, tell stories, make money, earn a living. The simplicity of their temperament, with the simplicity of nature, think about how to make money. They love their own lives, but to the outside world as the goal of life (from the batik shop owner, to the boatmen, to the 1000 Lake are all the farmers have such a temperament and yearning for). This group of people, composed of the real world of western Hunan. And we can enter such a world, 35 hours, imaginary people who themselves are so simple, and then still have to return to the bar. Back to that perfect world, because in the real world, we do not know how to Hunan to survive.
In the real world and by our Xiangxi beautify the world, there is a third western Hunan. Is Shen Cong-wen's Xiangxi. I still believe that Chen Lao is lonely. Come to Phoenix, to 1000, he felt even more lonely lake. His eyes and the villagers is different from the simple villagers that only pure heart and mind to change their lives, except Chenlao, his pen has folks, there are bandits, murderous military control, but he viewed the big love of western Hunan.
Those of us tourists, attend-books, I am afraid it just is for the search for Tracy, looking to see stars from the Riverside. We are working hard from his book, searching for the so-called Western Hunan culture - in particular, had been beautifying that part of culture. And I firmly believe, from the man did not intentionally written from the culture of western Hunan, his writing is to live! To abandon the pursuit of the so-called culture, I can enter his world, the beauty of living in the world.
In any case, in the 1000 Lake, in the drenched Miao Village in Hunan, I found the reality in the bar I am creating the perfect western Hunan are passing through, in the lake I found the door to understanding Shen Cong-wen in the world I will walk in the three world, this is really fantastic journey.
The text to the end, I would like to return to Phoenix, in the 1000 Tam did not find any expected something had to return to the Phoenix find. Our third boat, the second to Shuibo Miao Village, and finally bought a rice wine. The evening, returned to Jishou. Since the end of the road.
Author: odd
