【Basha篇】
This travels in the whole weight of the heaviest one, in fact, write in front of so many hearts there is a small idea is to try pulling the first to write another chapter in Basha, as Basha gave me the feeling too much, we often think of BIA sand, and my heart is always a good feeling on the other is the heart.
Study the root in the end, we have identified Basha is a major driving force in this trip. Because there are thousands of Basha Miao Village customs, because men are still stubbornly Basha site the bun. Forced to admit that I have is with the mental adventures of sand into the BIA. However, Basha its natural simplicity of the way I first joined the Basha 15 minutes to change my state of mind. When walking, we were full of emotion and speechless with melancholy to leave Basha. Basha, a quiet village not normal.
First entered the Basha has been the approach of dusk. In Xiao Huang busy day, people are tired, the sun drying the skin has also been hurt, and out of layer after layer of sweat, pace and seemed to be a lot of Shen. Basha into a small square in front, the highest point in the whole Miao Village, while there is a repair half of the pavilion, looks as though it is very new. Opposite the square is one that no one has been studying school classrooms empty classrooms the old old as I read more than 20 years ago, elementary school. In this small range where it is not feel any particular place, can not help but a little disappointed.
"既来之,则安之." With a little disappointed, we started down the hill, that is, in the village walk. Just a few steps Road, Basha with the feeling of not letting them silently disappear in seeped out - first, the temperature had been lowered 23 degrees. Yi Gu soak into the depths of the coolness volume over, the spirit of one of the cool people, physical strength also returned 23 points. Then eyeful of the green. Light than the dark outside the village while the soft, but even the sun seems to have become a light green filter, languidly through foliage, no matter how impervious surface drying is also drying up slightly steaming water vapor.
Basha is so quiet. We are a pedestrian walking on the village road, actually do not see a shadow. Around one another from time to time passing between the Diaojiao Lou, but the whole village is quiet to allow us to hear their own footsteps and not hear the sound of Along The only accompanied by the birds do not know where the sound could not quite true to distinguish between near and far. - We do the wrong place?
The only walked to see a popular thing, by the roadside on the slopes of a small tree down held hostage a cage or a basket of something similar to the above non-fabric covered with a cloth like a colored piece of cloth-phase hard as well as hand-woven lace things. Climb to a view, originally a women's pleated skirt. The pleated skirt Miao Village and Dongzhai not like a pleated only 23 millimeters wide, densely filled with a pleated skirt. Dongzhai The pleated skirt is the same color, the Miao Village sub-layers, respectively, with different colored fabric from the waist rolled out, and have a Department of Kua is the traditional dark blue dyeing. Beautiful and interesting. Put the process of making pleated skirts down stretch in the baskets on the dry stereotypes - Topics fork far away, when we looked like the end of this cage thing, decided to try to see into the family. Then along the steep slopes to climb on the dirt road came to a height Diaojiao Lou positive.
A front door of a black and adapted to 23 seconds only to find it is a place like the kitchen. That can not see anything we like is that the kitchen will be used to things, including water tanks, stove, and daily necessities. In this corner of the square of 45, under a wire hanging from the ceiling, knee high places are all hanging on a black pot inside and out, the following has a washbasin on the ground the size of depression, which burn is not very Wang fire. Do not see if there is a real rickets between the back of the lady sitting in the shadow. This kitchen is the only one throughout the building to the land surface. Others are wooden structures, wandering out at night when it is found that the kitchen is the only lighting on the roof two or three palm-size skylights, no wonder that in the evening in the kitchen looks like night. Through the kitchen to the living room, home furniture, rustic and simple, wooden structure, mainly through the living room went to a large balcony. Large terrace house should be a main site of human activities, which placed a 23 Zhang bench, and 56 small stool. Shun-Pian Xiang made the old host family accommodation, was simply to agree.
To lay down their luggage, we continue our tour is almost aimlessly. Basha evening was very beautiful. Went to a few trees where panoramic view of the entire valley. The valley is the layer upon layer upon layer of terraces, no water is shallow Rourou of tender green, step by step done to the foot, due to mist, gradually become blurred, like a watercolor painting inside Yun-dye. Days is a dense cloud of lead, but the sun broke free from the shackles of clouds, from the edge of stubbornly stuck a light at their feet, to straight into the bottom track of a bunches of light and seemed to be terraced with the vigor and vitality. Impervious to the bottom of the probe light fog, the entire valley has been the sun light orange, light green terraced fields and trees filled with large and small, and without leaving a little gap, the United States was like fairyland, down seems those of us outsiders is superfluous.
Turned down the hill to see the whole sub-stockade is also a pleasure. Stockade was surrounded by trees, in the evening light orange light and mist of the shadow is also a soft green, as if drops of water can come. All rooms are deep dark gray, do not see people, do not see the lights, poles, towers, or any reinforced concrete thing, is a dream-like pastoral co-ordination, as if in such a landscape where would think of "white clouds the depths of someone in the family, "a poem, a sudden, we can not help but forget where they had.
Basha one wonders, is their Wo dry, rough road one by one with the sized logs erected, there are more than two layers tall. In the village there is only a small piece of flat land, almost slightly larger than the badminton court, the middle of all sides and Wo drying rack. Wo drying rack on top is a meter of the bark of a small roof, the shelves around the middle of each half a meter that is a beam, looks like a very wide, pulling the ladder. We went not planting, not the harvest season, Wo drying racks are empty. Basha Miao Village is said that people who put the rice after the harvest, together with rice straw, Wo laundry drying rack until dry, then back room storage. In the evening, Wo drying rack looks especially tall, dark brown shelves as if revealing a natural sense of Cang seems to have seen the earth-shaking, as if even the texture of wood are described in the story of history. Wo sat drying racks, the space-time seems to have been cut off Wo drying rack, "I wonder if there Han, regardless of the Wei-Jin" Maybe the feeling is this. Wo drying rack under an old man (detective doggedly determined he is the stockade where the oldest people), and a look of wrinkles imitation Daoxue wood carvings, as Chen Huang old wood color; but expression is very special, can not see any to compassionate concern, but also do not see the enjoyment of life, joy, and has not been woodenly after suffering torture, more like beyond the understanding of "too on the emotion-laden" realm, as if everything is around him has nothing to do with him again fundus . Do not need any words, standing by Wo disorder drying rack space separated, he is like Wo drying racks, drying rack like the Wo is him.
Along the hillside all the way down, in the village is still not quiet to hear the human voice. The light is fading, becoming more and more is a tranquil village. Diaojiao Lou to see some other kids were already there. They are also very curious, have a little to avoid health, often say a few words on the flash went to one side gone, a moment, and from Diaojiao Lou heads stuck inside watching us. I went into one, there is a small, estimated at about four years old girl, there is a big point on the fourth-grade boy. Their mother saw me on the floor, has been accompanied with a smile on one side (I suspect she does not speak Mandarin), there is a not a little boy and I was chatting up words. The little girl good as gold, and her hand holding a head-sized rice bowl, the other hand push lightly with chopsticks to eat. Although the large bowl, only the bowl of food, looks like a mixture of rice flour and rice, can not see any traces of food, widow widowed.
Continue to stroll, we reached the foot of the mountains. Basha was found throughout the water. Originally a village of people use the eye with a spring, which trickle down the mountainside with exudation Let me just want to use "tears" to describe. The village people assemble in the spring a similar pond side of the stone edge, but the pool house of the water and even shop discontent bottom. The two women Mao Zhaoyao scoop water with the ladle bottom blowing, each time only a saliva scrapings. I could not help but ask them how long you can scoop a ladle full of little buckets - the answer is 10 minutes. Simple calculation, they have to spend 10 minutes walking down from the hills came the sole source of water, it took 20 minutes of time filled with water, Liang Tong, and then spend 10 minutes walking home, not even counting the time waiting in line - the edge of the pool stands a row of seven or eight barrels. Is difficult to imagine, in the sunny days without three days of Guizhou, actually the mountains so dry! However, in these women face, and actually do not see the weariness and helplessness, and their smile is still hospitable and sweet. This is the first time such a close feeling of the importance of water, is also deeply aware of the Basha of people is why water recycling to water conservation. That night, when the hospitable hosts who looked side to the small Banpen water to wash us, we deeply feel guilty. The next day, we invariably bring with us from the mountains outside of bottled water brush your teeth, could not bear to use their precious Jos water.
The following morning waking, the inspector and the old weeks have been got up for a long time to see the best sunrise. Hurriedly washed (which may be our most economical one, a bottle of water was divided into two persons) that we lose time to walk around. Because the farmers are all done before dark, go home from the fields the morning, the popularity of the wang a lot, from time to time there is a plate with a bun, Bei Zhaoqiang and baskets, the latter hung with sickle farmer walked hip. Night and get along with a host family, especially the Old Wu, accompanied by village head, we are here has already been a sentiment, feeling their distinctive clothing is well deserved, and the surrounding environment is like mixed into one.
Also riding on the morning circle around the village, the village at dusk, when hot phenomenon than a lot of the children, women, there are a lot of dogs have added a lot of angry voices. Suddenly heard the monotonous rhythm of the pound, listened along with the sound of it into the farmers saw the three girls in the pile meters. Two girls, one a foot in the spile on the jump up and down, like a very strange crafts dance, sweat from their forehead, slide down from their dressing neat bun on the damp out of a chaotic Lianglv hair, he saw us, they keep hands and feet, they bloom the face smile. The other older women in spile instant lift-off mortar inside the mortar beam rolling rice or millet laid directly good at turning the uniform, she knew we stood behind her, but without looking, and looked focused and Action is very crisp. The early morning sun through the small shed in their back window, so I think they are beautiful. Come out to see a group of kids, including the little girl the day before good as gold, and a man in full national costume and stubbornness, stubborn little boy, Phil quickly, and their mix. Detective shot a lot of good photos.
Shuttle in the dirt road, passing a mother with a very lovely child will not walk, I am curious to ask a "is a boy or girl ah?" May be the mother will not use Mandarin to answer directly to the child's clothes tease up and allow us to judge this issue. Her direct and candid, as well as such there is no sense of distance move, once again remind us Basha's lovely, and honest.
The other families before a child's mother carrying a child m piles. She had only one person, armed with long sticks in the stick of a broom tied a fiddle with the mortar inside the rice. Basha pile m cooking is women's work, and they were right before every meal to get 12 straw piles, and then finished cooking, and never more than once for the lazy and the pile point. Three meters away, her husband, smiling, stood watching. Although I can only see her silhouette, I think that women in the pile meters should be very happy, she was for the own home and the loved ones happy with crafts.
Bid farewell to the old village head one, the seven of us around to find a Miao Village around 8 swing. 56 meters-long two shares of straw rope hung in the high branches, the end of one meter from the ground punched a large knot. Particularly long because of the rope swinging from them are also particularly vulnerable, before and after the ups and downs, the seem to float in the air to see blue sky through the branches, leaves and sunlight, feeling almost from the day special.
In the Basha, the real emotion, but reluctant to let us, is a place of refuge Zhezhi culture.
Most people in the village named roll, reportedly rushed to the scene this year by Han Chinese, the ancestors of poor rural feel ashamed of defeat when the fact that a change of surname angrily to descendants of Lai Chi. Hmong men, including Basha hair bundles are derived from the original custom. Here, clearly a man of the year retained brave and sturdy. Although no birds have been able to play, they will still form a unique bird a day carrying a gun, reads, "Who stole my cattle, I carry a Who!" In such an isolated Miao Village, stealing cattle in the village is a piece incredible, and I think they may not have 10 years an opportunity to use their guns, but gun and knife like a totem birds in general, stubbornly vent out the flow of blood inside the Basha's tough man. Bloody outside, where men also in their own way to express the tenderness. The mountains far away from the fields in particular. Because of the steep mountains, each a very small area of terraced fields, planting can imagine how difficult. Basha men with lunch every day and their panniers, tools, knives, guns expedition like to go farming. Days almost all rotten to the core can also see farmers taking advantage of moonlight go home. When he saw the elderly host family a son with a towel, rubbed the side of the sweat between thoracodorsal while facing the family with a smile waiting for dinner, the air so light mi a Hantou atmosphere, I saw a man bear Basha family responsibilities, pride and without hesitation.
Basha woman is flexible, in the men's under the care, they are not involved in the farm far away in the valley. In the hillside watching homemade rice seedling greenhouse are of half a boy and watching the heated kang watched the textbooks. Farm work is a man's responsibility. Needless to say as long as the woman, a good cook, manage the home, optimistic about their children - they have to weaving, clothing, carrying water, pile rice cooking, etc. All these require considerable patience trivial housework. Basha's home, even though there is no neat furniture, but the ground is clean, and can be seen without a woman or a contingent ignores any details of the family. Should know that in such a primitive village, each home is an unimaginable burden. We have seen in Basha of older women, are bent spine of the shrimp-like, will be many years of weight-bearing physical exertion and lack of nutrition Shiran.
Despite harsh conditions, but each person's face is calm and smile. Here, hard, we are the outsiders, not theirs. They have is that the mountain part of the men, although one is not high, but they all tall and straight as a mountain-like fortitude, women's, such as a tree-like, rooted in the mountains for the mountain again with the green leaves of the storm and sun block sun. "Male farming women weave" of the pastoral life, the real co-ordination is the fact that a tacit agreement had each other and spared. They are poor and peaceful.
Basha were not unaware of the outside world is very exciting, but the entire nation invariably made a cultural choice. Even Old Wu's father, the village, "village with the second-person" can also be a strange pronunciation of Mandarin and we chat about where it came from, even though he only knew of Yunnan and Guangxi. The old man told us that there are a lot of people go out to work, were later returned. They are willing to do poverty, I do not know. However, kids can see the characteristics of the entire nation. Without exception, all the boys here, sporting a long hair, that proud little boy proudly told us that because he had read, so you can set hair, the other boys do not read too fat has not yet set. The teachers are all short hair outsiders to teach them, are also in accordance with China's compulsory education system by the culture - foreign culture. Even in such a culture foreign disseminated, as long as a school, the boys will certainly raise the hair is set up. According to our observation, here is never mandatory requirements for children to the elderly to retain their traditions, Basha who is very respected and emphasize that each person's self-selection, only to poetry, children who have been selected between breaths Basha people's way, they retain their traditions are proud of.
The choice of such a culture is in no way affect the people Basha tolerance and acceptance of other cultures. This is also Basha cultural peculiarities. Basha could not see anything on the outside culture, longing, envy, jealousy or rejection, rejection, and hostility. Which are in other minority or disadvantaged groups in the face and deal with cultural conflicts, is easy to show emotions. From Wu village of more than 20 dollars a heave a deep sigh of books can be seen that they are not rich; from Wu mayor and current mayor of the roll body, we can see that they are also strongly to adapt to the changes of life, in his Tourism to facilitate the creation of conditions in the economy through tourism to improve the situation of the villagers. But the more people get along, and Basha, the more feel that they are as calm as a pond, guarding the square earth, Xiao Kan Feng Yun even after the world try to keep calm and to choose the previous life. Apparently, they do not like many other ethnic minorities, for tourism or economic development to maintain and deliberately exaggerating the tourists who like to discuss some of the traditional, the kitsch buried in the spiritual pillar of our nation, they are still migrating over the year that the groups, despite the lack of thousands of people, but they can feel that they and their ancestors are the same strain. They made What are the dynamics of cultural choices, their national cohesion is the core of what we discover in the short to stay in less than a question. If there is sorry that this may be that we only regret in Basha.
Hmong Basha of outsiders is very friendly, Old Wu village head one pairs of hospitality that we are very grand. As long as we at home, man of the house will be put aside to talk with us all these things accompany. Even our meals are personally accompanied Wu village seat, rest of the family to eat the other in the dim room. After dinner, Wu village to stay with us to chat, when we talk that he may have been not very aware of the topics he just sat quietly stayed with us, it appears that neither lonely nor bored, and no curious look, as if simply did not feel that we inadvertently gave him the culture of the pressure. From the Old Wu village head who I saw Basha the way people deal with cultural conflict is neither complacent, but not belittle, but frankly face up on the basis of respect for others, tolerance. Such as courtesy to guests, neither overbearing nor servile, and even described by Fan Chung-yen "non-material-happy not to have been sad," as they reinforced concrete inside the city was gradually buried in the Chinese tradition, but rather lack of it in the Basha thousand people overnight, experienced stone walkways, and intractable. Do not know whether the inherent fortitude Basha sturdy and forced to move to Badlands setbacks brought about by the great wisdom of people raised their hands so that Basha has been rare between carrying enough dedication, steadfastness and calm.
Basha Jean deserves our greatest respect. When leaving Basha, we found that villagers in the village vary as to the price of two to three times higher than outside the sale of Basha's traditional clothing. Basha people still do not have an inclusive rather as a way to let other people doing other people their own choice. Basha left when saying a word along the way I think about the way how is the best for the Basha, I admire Basha that the human spirit and their choices, and felt that poverty and the decline should not be the fate of their nation. Detective clearly than I deeply considered. He has thought how to use Basha way people can receive to help them, such as how to help them solve the water problem.
Use it in the first twilight of their cattle to the end of the bar, this stubborn people like this head of cattle raised my head, like weight-bearing, silent, and firmly.
Phil】 【online there are many Basha's comments, most of them are talking about how today's Basha has been how taste has changed to also skeptical before I went to then I would think that those comments are ridiculous. I only believe those attacks Basha has been the commercialization of the people would surely not have swallowed in the evening when the stockade walked quietly paths, certainly not with the stockade with his elderly drying racks in the empty Wo had issued stay, there will not and here, the elderly, children, men and women have had a real conversation, not just out of curiosity to inquire. We are very fortunate that the evening before into the stockade, but also in the early morning departure, there is no more adventures like the money of people like to let them perform, we are just very careful of their lives into the scene to go, but certainly not in the side of the just watch, I would like is to go back to my familiar dream, no, probably should be a past life of the home bar. This is one I vowed to go back to the place, because there are far too many miss the ~ ~
Detective】 【Until now, a look at photos, I still feel a little alarmed at the Basha pictures of different people and the small yellow, small yellow figure is a joy, with songs, photos, there is a like a water-like the flow of feeling. However, Basha characters, even children, in front of the cameras are quiet, serious, giving a feeling of rocks.
Author: _ceair501820406