In mid-March 2004 .. 15:00 ..
Received an e-mail from Shenzhen Mix, content is not going to ask me 51 Qinghai Province Noboridama Everest!?
During that time ... I am just in a depressed state. Reason for that was posted before the Society in 51 countries organized two mountaineering activities. First, the arrival of Mount Everest 7028 meters .12000 yuan
Second, Akiko peak summit activities .16000 yuan
These two activities, the price is too high, one can not be accepted! Had depressed ~ ~
So. This e-mail information too timely for me is ... a big good news. Immediately decided upon .. to conduct research. Application. To develop training programs ...
The Hayden Youth Association has organized two Noboridama Everest's activities. The first period began April 24. The second period began May 1.
I reported the first phase. The second phase of 51 teams that will definitely be a lot of people ...!
And decided to April 17 the day of departure. First Beijing. To purchase some essential equipment, purchase of equipment ~ this time in Beijing. Also thanks to our club Dayong. He told me great help!
Am most grateful to ~ ~ (this is before you in Jilin booked April 20 Beijing, Xining, flight tickets!)
............
April 17, 2004 starting the day feeling heavy
Was originally to start in Beijing on the 16th ... but I love to eat the fish meal had to delay the day ...:)
Prior to departure .. eating noodles in the Green Glen. A lot of friends to see me off ~ ~ doubly impressed ... and kept the depth of each one of those smiles ~
Railway Station is also as crowded as the former, but few people do not have too many words, they are certainly worried that this looks like a bit reckless on the westbound.
Gaode my heart is not very good ... (do not know that this can come back alive ~) ..
Jilin to Beijing by train finally start ~ with a heavy heart ... all the way to ease slowly cranky ~! Pressure on a big ... there is the trust of my friends constantly around ears ~
A Sleepless ...
April 18, 2004 Beijing sun is high
Still living in the north near the embassy district Zhaolong International Youth Hostel .. a four-bed rooms. A Frenchman. An American. And a Korean (Cao large)
We are talking about, after I heard he was a very harmonious .. Sian ~ he said today he wanted to go to the Summer Palace during the day .. .. I am about to buy equipment, to meet in the evening, so I took him to Sanlitun Paojiu Ba!
A morning of equipment Gaoding .. there is a part should be tomorrow (Monday) to purchase! Afternoon decided to go to the sea after the sun, the way to the old hutong stroll ~ noon, after the sea in the Tea-Horse restaurant to eat Yunnan Cai .. Hehe .. FB .... a little bit, but no matter how hard the sea after a quiet .. .. I really love you ~ ~
.. In the afternoon, after the feeling of the sea .... lazy ~
.....
20:00 I took Cao big to Sanlitun ... on the streets soliciting take you to find remains of Miss .. in that they recommend you go to the bar. ~
I bought a pack of cigarettes on the Yantan ~ went straight to my opinion, the best flavor Sanlitun bar S'WING
Sitting in a high chair. Drinking beer. Lit a cigarette. Listened to the Philippines singer singing the familiar songs ~ Apart from the political to talk about anything .. ~
A feasting. Neon lights the night ~
April 19, 2004 very hot weather in Beijing
Nice sleep last night. And a night without dreams ~
This morning in the hotel the afternoon finishing equipment .. .. Ozark's equipment, but also take a moment to visit hing, Ozark warehouse ...
Night, a man went to Oriental Plaza watched a movie (Fatal Attraction) .. like .. like a mountain is also a fatal temptation for me ~ ~
April 20, 2004 sunny and very hot in Beijing today, the two of us, and youth hostels are also a few other guys climbing organization to Simatai Great Wall ~ (truly in! This is not like what is going on in Qinghai climbing ... FB in Beijing:)
However, N times been to Beijing .. the last round of my dream to climb the Great Wall .... but still very classic period ....呵呵~ ~
(Hing better than Badaling. And Mutianyu .. those two places is not worth a go ~~!!)
Departure from the hotel up to climb the Great Wall when I constantly remind drivers of my aircraft was eight at the time of back ....!! he did not tell me to worry!
(Before and hotel front desk said that good .. so that drivers give a lift to send me to the airport .. to give him 20 yuan can be done! ~ That if a person to the airport would mean abandoning the 70 yuan it ..!)
A storm on the road ... so everywhere Zhaobu fetal birth place ~ ~
After three hours to reach gubeikou .. .. ~
I finally stood at the foot of the Great Wall Simatai section. And can for the first time saw this great big project. With zero distance contact with it ~ ~
Relative to the other two Beijing Badaling Great Wall tourist area (Juyongguan) and Mutianyu, Simatai Great Wall is located in gubeikou's not well known. However, this by Chi Chi, presided over a magnificent poem written during the war in the Great Wall has maintained a history of more original appearance. Broken walls and overgrown with weeds Beacon still stand upright in the towering mountains and steep cliffs above, but also show their ancestors and history of Wei-heavy.
Climbed the Great Wall after 5 hours. Summing up the two words: spectacular tired! ~ ~
In the way to the airport are becoming more ... .. sleep!
Arrive at the airport is an hour .. 7:00 .. there is gratitude and the driver shook his hand .. with the CAO large (South Korea) after the affectionate embrace of a backpack .. I am carrying a huge bag of mobile forward pack ..
Into the airport building ~ ~
End tedious check-processing ... broadcast notice: to fly to Xining, flight due to mechanical failure. Delayed for an hour! ~ ~ (This is the plane troubles ~!!!)
I had a stroll in the post-machine hall ~
Beijing's airport, a little bit worn out .. I still feel Shuangliu Airport, Pudong, Shanghai and Sichuan, beautifully designed. Practical ..!
When the plane left the runway at the time ... I finally fascinating stats. Into a "state of combat readiness "..... we must reach the top!
To the Da Xining. Is already 12:20 .. the original place of residence in the online booking taxi driver did not even have to allow drivers to find .. recommended a hotel stay there .. feeling pretty good!
(Because there is no youth hostel in Xining. Can only be living in a hotel of the .. ~)
April 21, 2004, Xining, Yin 2246 meters above sea level
10 am .. In addition to the nose up a little bit dry outside. The other is okay ~
In the living opposite the pharmacy bought a bottle of Rhodiola capsules ... way to buy a train ticket .....! Xining gave me the feeling okay ... that is gray in ~
Noon to eat snacks _ are here, the characteristics of a good patch .. .. taste pretty good ~
Train station ... but the feeling is that the new traffic order is bad .. very bad! Ticket hall, a lot of people. But still able to buy at 17 o'clock on the 22nd of the ... to Golmud sleeper ticket ...
.. A bit soft, the body immediately back to hotel rest ~ ~ ~
Thus to noon on April 22 ... .. I went out for a walk .. by the way have something to eat ... the rest of the time back to the hotel to pack equipment, train station ... ready to go!
A lot of people queuing waiting room ... very strange .. to be a good few laps around the wicket to get to the meaning ...呵呵~ a bit. Got on. Drank some water then eat something. Suddenly saw the two backpack donkey .. a man and a woman. .. I went accosted the results are not going to board Ock's ~ (good disappointing! ... come from Beijing, had never seen a backpack on the donkey. are a lot of people stare a look at my ass in the first. 2 does not come across is to climbing ...)
With the car to Xining, Golmud to do things people ask is not to draw from nature, I am even more depressed the ~~~~!!! Gaode ~
Then only look at the scenery outside the window ... .. very desolate scenery in general are the same ... I do not see any lofty salt bridge ~ short. I see the storm .. capped with pan straight to sleep!!!
23:00 .. take a look at the table ~ 2630 meters above sea level
April 23, 2004 and the Golmud clear elevation of 2800 meters the sun a little glare
Of the station. Golmud to see a building (at right) ... there is a banner that says welcome to stay all over the country climbers Golmud Building!
Not far away from the door. Finally met one also came back signed up ... also had a huge bag. There is a 45 liters or so in front of the package ... (and later knew that he was in Guilin Tong Zhijun,
We are A group of 9 individuals there hoisting him one!)
Registration room on the third floor ... we had to climb the difficult things Beizhao Bao holding the third floor ... .. have to wait until the registration office of severe asthma and could not utter a word of room out there ... mountaineering bag .. a lot of inside and outside are standing a few people ... so to know Beijing's Chang brother, Hao Li Ge, Cui Kai, Shanghai, Mi Chen, Hefei Li Qiang. There are at the gate know Guilin Tong Zhijun. ( In fact the seven individuals on our understanding of the earliest and has been together ~ ~)
Reported everywhere to see Weidong coach and former secretary general of the Association Gordon Green beard high school ... The next step is into the money ... that the accounting of money owed me 80 ~ say there was no change for the. Waiting for me down from the hills, looking to the I ..
Look at the money呀~ ~ more than 80 are not open to find ... (If I had to stay in the mountains. He earned. Ha ha!) Turn to pay off the money, and then sit down next collaboration Pakistani mountains xidatan first car to adapt to. In other words I learned from the train down. not come and enjoy the Golmud building ... we should go Xidatan to adapt ~ ~ but no matter how hard I think it is good事情.
Laughter ... the way you master the previous two drivers were also told us some of the things driving the plateau is more ... nothing less than a collision, and so encounter sandstorms .. ~
After the bridge along the Kunlun. Kunlun jade beach spring and scenery in general ~ especially dazzling sunlight outside. Really hope is that such good weather!
12:30 until about 4200 meters above sea level opened to the West Grand Beach. (West Grand Beach is a large depot on the Qinghai-Tibet highway, so you can see a lot of trucks and go to Tibet to Lhasa train, from here to Lhasa PM 3:00 to go. tomorrow at 10 am on to Lhasa. was very convenient!) We live in the Road class. 10 yuan each bed. minibus into the mountains then went to the ~ a collaborative climbing above the weather was not that good ~
Can be very good weather here ~ sun ~ our lazy is clear the distant snow-capped mountains ... This is the jade north slope of Everest. And厐large glacier ice ~ hillsides are bright shining sun of the ~ eaten after lunch. slept for an hour after getting up .. feel ... we have bad weather outside. cloudy. wind. snowstorm in the mountains must have formed ~
Seven out of a walk, make some adaptation activities. (Terrible cold!)
Hui night in a restaurant to eat mutton and pot clutch. Warm, extremely ... He He ~ (FB) eat very saturated. Is put on the front of the vehicle Weidong coach told us not to eat too full cast did not know that place went to the ~ ...
April 24, 2004 Overcast Snow Cross
This night can be imagined ~ altitude sickness came. No one slept well. Headache for Beijing's HAO Li厉害~ ~ What to eat the most obvious reaction to spit anything ...
We all worry about him ~! Tao classes due to low temperature. So we went next door to the Muslims hotel tea. Here you can see a satellite station generator. Really uncomfortable ~ it had been little appetite! (Though here the morning of noodles is delicious ~:)
At noon is still to lie down to sleep. An hour together. Go out to adapt! This time it got jade ... Qinghai-Tibet Railway at the foot of Mount Everest and then counting the number of poles arranged in a row to go back on. A few even remember half the number to the the number of ~ ...
Such weather. Really let my heart ~ do not know if I can climb to the top of the ~ (At this point a cell phone without electricity. Here it will be barely a bit poor signal!)
Green board around 6:00 p.m. and from the Society's car brought to 20 the following several climbers around. Among them were several of Hunan Television. This car is take us to base camp. There is a few guys and we insisted on together with the base camp ....!
Kunlun Mountain pass at 4767 meters above sea level stood a stone, there has been away from Golmud 160 kilometers. I remember a kid to read some of the heroes of the Kunlun Mountains as the background story, years later, finally came to her side. Ahead is the Hoh Xil no man's land. Kunlun Pass not far off the car to the left off the road, we need to move toward the east along the mountains about 20 kilometers in depth in order to reach the southern slope of the mountain in the Everest base camp jade.
Have been the next storm. Visibility, it was only 5 meters. We sat in the car not as good as people go fast. Time to time, also stopped to see if the wrong! ~ Road Henlan, China and Pakistan from time to time cars were getting stuck.
Would also like to get off it and launch it .. tired of me breathless ~ eyeful Venus ...
19:40 offer more difficult until the opening of kin to BC (base camp) 5050 meters above sea level, built in the valley of the rocks pile, in the little flat where there are four more classes to use tents, including one for the kitchen, a is the activity room and restaurant. There are a few that we live in ... the top 5 m still unable to see around things. but not far away there are two red spots in the rock ~ and that is the toilet. by ~ so much wind Who That run has passed the toilet .... he probably would not find the way back ~呵呵!
The few of us won the Mangba equipped vehicles. Back to the tent we live. This can only be Dangdang snow tent. Others Do not even try. Even the fuck are not moisture-proof pad. Gaode I dumbfounding!!
Application forms are also not written to bring moisture-proof pad呀~ think here I want to laugh ~ (like a donkey to go to Tibet depot accommodated. The result was that everything the soldiers standing guard .. not allowed to enter the donkey show the results of a thick travels Gonglue. very angry to say: it says here live呀~~~!!!)
We all have severe altitude sickness. Elevation increased, the temperature suddenly reduced, the wind has been particularly large, but also rolled up snow. I am cold and shivering, and hurried to find out from his backpack, clothes to wear. From that time on, everyone's every move like a movie in slow motion.
Should first sleeping bag out. Then put down jackets. Bring snow mirror. To go out looking for someone to be a moisture-proof mat ... Mi morning I stopped to give him first, let me shoot segment DV .... halo!
We crowded into activity rooms and dining room to prepare meals. Dinner was gruel. Admonished to eat less next to the collaboration. More water!
Up after the first message: Golmud Deng Society hoisting a dozen or failure, all trapped in the C1. And above, a number of tents have been blown snowstorm bad! ~
Tent sat in a Shanghai girl. This gives us a few eyes light up ... Ha ha! Li Qiang of the most exciting .. the more the more the want to try!!
There is also a built in Shenzhen to mustache Xiao. Long .. I mean very type beard. Than I look good ~呵呵! What the two of them had been chatting ~
Alpine collaborative half-joked that the evening will be even greater storm. Out of the toilet in time to hold fast to the big rock .... damn terrorist ~ ~
After dinner, the meeting announced the Climbing Festival officially began, emphasizing the "safety, discipline, and environmental protection," the purpose of requiring everyone to voluntary compliance. At this time, the discomfort caused by high mountain hypoxia slowly begun to emerge. Research shows that at an altitude of 5,000 meters where oxygen content is only half the sea level, that is where we lived just a little more than half. As the slow breathing during sleep will increase the oxygen level, so let everyone collaborate more Zuoyi Hui mountains. Also drink plenty of water can also speed up the adaptation. Said that one day on the mountain require 3-5 liters of drinking water, we sat in tents, then immersed Lane. constantly drink water but did not stick to 10 points. on both hurried back to sleep inside the tent went to open the headlights ... ... tent cold pressing!!! cold ....
Li Qiang, burst into the tent from the outside. Very excited to tell us a message: women's room has been blown down by ~ This is so what's the happy guy .. do not know what kind of spirit ...
The night of storms at lower temperatures, and sinking air in the valley form a strong decline in the wind, lifting the tent Hua Lala was straight ring. A splitting headache, feeling of suffocation lying there will be no way to sleep. The darkness, a man sitting in his sleeping bag big mouth to breath, vomiting and heard the voice outside, from time to time. How time flies slowly, as if stopped, but the brain activity did not stop, confusion and jump, hypoxia certainly damage the brain cells, I seem to feel it a little bit of water molecules into cells, the so that they slowly swelling. Inertia makes the lives of physically and mentally exhausted, has brought more suffering to escape, but also extended to the body from the spirit. Kidney function seems normal, a lot of drinking water began to metabolism, it may not stand up before climbing off the door turn on the water. Those who do not know how many people the tent as I do not get to sleep. Biting wind makes more than willing to stay a while. I can not move inside their tents, and just instinctively began to tremble, spaced not know how long it took ....
Take a look at the table. Tent the temperature of minus 17 degrees ...
Wind still large .. can not see the peak ...
Night. You do not want to go out .. then turn on the water in front of a corner of the tent settlement. (Results the next morning in Shenzhen that mustache first to be caught. Did not react when he does!)呵呵~
(Only two days Naodu Zi Li Qiang. ...~) Shit always run out at night
... Is still serious headache ~ ~
Middle of the night. Felt terrible if burned. If it is because of mountain sickness is not caused by a fever is also important thing, if it is caused by a very bad cold, I am afraid only the withdrawal of Golmud, a road by now. Watch the thermometer shows the temperature inside the tent dropped to 17.5 degrees. got up and touched the cold medicine before the preparations for it on the water, and eat it together with Rhodiola. So I firmly Juansuo the point in sleeping bags for fear that the heat finish ...
(Originally did not want to take medicine for fear of illness to cover up, stay up 15:00 endure no longer go on, open the headlights to find a packet of cold medicine to drink down before the rest of me in the darkness a few hours is better than some. Said to drugs, there are also some experience in this fight for the future have time to write a post dedicated to talk about mountaineering and travel preparation and use of drugs.)
It seems to stay up when the weather is fine ... can we send supplies in 5300! ...
April 25, 2004 blizzard visibility 5 m
Drowsily over the .... 9:00 on the up. Sleeping bag hanging outside a layer of frost. This is my Everest base camp a little bit similar to ~
The morning is the snow outside the tent ... It seems that the number of tents fail to do so ... to place the snow pack at a layer of snow covered a whole ....
Put on down jackets. Go off to eat dinner drink. Every step of the severe headache. Face a bit swollen. You are not relaxed. Everyone did not say a few words ~
Outside the snow-capped mountains on the snow and ice by the sun light reflected off his goggles very clear ... a kind of tingling. Subconscious immediately put on. To avoid causing unnecessary trouble ~
Drank half a bowl of porridge, I felt the spirit of a lot better. But suddenly feel a little vomiting. I am busy to eat a steamed bun. To want to throw things out of the back pressure. If I threw up. It would be even more a waste of stamina! One up The HAO Li is still eating what is spit what ~ ~.
I wanted to go to sleep .. in the back to the tent to stop being cooperative. That would be more waste of the total strength to sleep .. had to sit in the drinking water over a continuous meal account. And then turn on the water ~
At noon the snow had stopped a little bit .. but the wind is still high. Stronghold of the afternoon the mountains Ozark Mountain School collaboration Dhondup and dragon boat, a team of nine people to take us to a nearby hill to climb as far failed to adapt to the activities of the headache, asthma feet become soft in no access to power, the slope wind enough to put us as a kite. on the way mountain pass in 2000 the victims of the tomb in Guangzhou green Wang Tao.
I will remember their names: Wang Tao, Kuang Yong-jun, ZHOU Hong-Chun, Wang Liang, Ren Yukun, because I passed them onto the road, and their soul accompanied by ...!
Down the small hill. Shaoyang the sky. Then you can see the southern slope of jade and the peak of Mount Qomolangma. Was very spectacular! Dine off to see a few more people to eat. Face changed circumstances is very tired. Originally just C1
5600 meters removed come. Golmud Deng those few hoisting of the Association. Among them were a girl. (Said to be encountered after the failure of storm-hoisting. C1 was evacuated to a tent on the remaining C1. Pain in a blizzard get through that terrible night ... even worse is that their shoes have disappeared in a blizzard. was that the girls were scared to cry ... have to wear at the foot of a heavy double-C1 under high altitude boots evacuated from BC. ...) I would then everyone of us must look bar!
Mechanical drinking water. Drainage. Eat ........
Today. There are cars on duty trucks have to go ... there are three seats. Shenzhen's mustache has been to draw me down. Said Li Weidong said to him, before departure on the 28th to appear good weather, let's go to Golmud to stay two days. .. I said that cars could only go to Xidatan. 200 yuan, he said to the driver, and his talk about .. no problem. that just go take a bath. I went to did not want a bath. just want to sleep a good sleep . is that there is a Shanghai girl. faster regarded packed good thing ... then the next bar ... brother, said Zhang in Beijing or the other down a quasi-good weather tomorrow ... but not stand up to a good sleep on the temptation to sleep ... or down a half-way ... but I regret it and sent us down the mountain ... So the collaboration that I accompany you to send them both to me and you go up together. .. but did not agree!
The time has arrived Road classes 8:00 pm more ... there are several teams below the base camp tomorrow. I have a car to go tomorrow. My heart was pragmatic today. Find a place to live. On and a few players to eat played a steaming hot pot ... there is an old boy or a colleague in Guilin Yellow Mountain. There are endless first told us the story of a newspaper in Shandong Zibo journalists. confident that it has also climb climb Peak up ... (which were eventually came to the headquarters disappeared ... It is said that did not say had several words ~)...
Washed my face last night, brush the teeth by the way is also a bit washed hair. (This is the report from Golmud in the day. The first wash. And for the first time brushing!)
That night sleep is really very comfortable for me ... hoisting No. 28, played a decisive role in!
April 26, 2004 clear
Shandong Zibo 7:00 am that a reporter called me to get up ... that there will be a car Hui Laijie us ...
I looked up to see out the window ... good weather so that I could not believe my eyes ...
So I rushed to eat breakfast, wash cough finished .... By the way to the mountains of those few guys to buy beef jerky. Results do not sell. Then buy a bar of chewing gum a few days .. they are not brushing the .. .呵呵~
After these few days of snow ... jade north slope of Everest and other peaks in the sunlight seemed a pure white ...
There are several members of the distance there are two dogs in the photo ... Circuit in the side ..
Sitting on the steps Inn lazy basking in the sun ... with glasses looking at a distance of jade Everest ... it is intended to ya ~
Incidentally, I called to the club call. No answer. Dafeng I called to the phone. Informed about the situation in the past few days.
Mustache girl in Shanghai and Shenzhen, Shandong Zibo in that there is room inside the big-name journalists do not .. I can feel it. Have been waiting anxiously for us to base camp to pick the car ~
12:00 more cars to come. I am very excited ......
In front of vehicles to take down the three reactions serious. Looks are miserable ~
Up with us along with a few guys a few Beijing green and bright ~ ... all the way ... also saw a few wild ass. ... Not run away from time to time to see if we stop and look back parked the car ... so .. car runs stop donkey donkey running ~ ~
Tent outside the camp, many people in the sun. I have a seen us on those few. The officers later complained. And send gum ...:)
I heard that they have technology and equipment sent to 5300. Gaode I very much regret ~
Outside the sun. Heard of that yesterday, up a few now get on the ground of. It is learned that the worst of the Cui Kai. Last night was a guy to spray the. Tents and sleeping bags at all!!
Been informed that tomorrow 13:00 Weidong should be personally led up to the 5600 meters. The next morning, ready to hoisting!
I rushed to pick up the technology and equipment. Do not leave me. Although he did not go to 5300 to adapt to. But I do not want to fall behind. And the weather very well. The opportunity is very rare!
Get returned. Qiang help me go to high altitude boots installed on crampons. He is a man is really very enthusiastic. In a few among us. Is his book a clown!呵呵~
Guilin afternoon, my colleagues in the old boy a man on the Yellow Mountain to the 5300 technology and equipment to stay there in the afternoon ... in Shanghai girl came to me and say whether or not to go near her at the small hill to adapt to. I have not said no. did not go far. She has left me 4. five meters away. and so on to the summit. she says she wants to withdraw home base. I want to have to go for a while. I walked towards the direction of glaciers. see the four shadows. to me beckoned .10 minutes later hit a surface. turned out that several of Hunan Television. went to shoot glaciers. join us in the south to the glaciers in Glacier near ~ Although there is no jade spectacular glaciers north slope of Everest.
However, before it reached a kind of pressing the same trend!
Standing not far away from the glacier to see the height of 5400 there are two shadows flew down from the hills. Should be the two complete a mountain road in collaboration. Which one is the dragon boat ..!
... The night sky. Starlight brilliant. You can also see the Milky Way ~ I played a bit chills. Then back to the tent. Are still very cold!
Watch the above temperature display _15 degrees.
Compared to a few days before it. Altitude sickness is not so obvious. But still a headache worse!
April 27, 2004 clear
The morning after breakfast. The sleeping bag from the tent out in the sun. And then needed to bring order to the equipment. It seems that I should technology and equipment to go directly back to the 5600.C1 good pain. In just take a look at some of them even back of a sleeping bag. Their technical equipment in 5300 were stored. to the 5300 re-install back to backpacks.
After breakfast. There is a group of people to do to adapt to training on the 5300. We are on the 5600's that point in the afternoon. Sitting in front of the sun tent.
Mi morning entered the tent out and called, as Dong-Liang Bu Xingle ~ our confusion bags and go to pick up oxygen Jiaoren. Weidong ran. Immediately decided to send light down into the East.
Perfectly good last night. Yuncai today .. ~ a result of the sleeping bag with carrying Lianren Dai got on ....!
Within a short while there came a number of Qinghai Medical College. That give us what the blood samples for research. Hypoxic hell itself .. even blood. I am not a halo is not in the camp. Few of us do not have a smoke . It was only hastily filling the tables. I wrote above, apart from the words or the faint halo character ...! followed by oxygen-carrying capacity of the equipment to do testing. are 70-80%.
13:00 to 2:00 after the departure along. 2:10. Breeze clouds. Was said this is the best mountain weather, in fact a large sunny cloudless not good, not only the strong ultraviolet radiation and prone to dehydration caused by sweating. The to bring items as concise as possible, built-in sleeping bags and down jackets. high altitude boots. warm water bottle. Snow Mirror. snow cover and a few bags of coffee .... moisture pad. crampons and ice ax hanging outside. took me 65 liters of NIKKO backpack is filled with full. back up and tried it. really good weight呀! (at high altitudes has also climbed the equivalent of 40 kilograms load. not to mention my 65 liters of the package.!!) Since the beginning of adaptation When sunscreen is useless, nose and mouth have begun peeling, facing the car mirrors a photo of arguably terrible, and concerned that back to see how people呀.. ~ ~ carefully wiped twice Mentholatum 50. again coated with a thick layer of lipstick ... by the way he went off to heat kettle filled meal!
In addition to two mountains collaboration. And Weidong. In that several of us had ~
Beijing Chang brother, Hao Li Ge, Cui Kai, Shanghai, Mi Chen, Guilin Tong Zhijun. Hefei Li Qiang. I _ Li Jun's Jilin. Peri-urban Lao Zhang.
Although we have to live together for a few days, but because we physically uncomfortable emotions are not high, the whole process of climbing the exchanges between each other not much, I even could not utter the names of the two mountains collaboration, Fortunately, the road is also moving there is no energy to speak, everyone would then walked in silence to bow their heads. from BC to C1 is the way to Suidan Po ~
Up to the 5300 meters when it came off in 5300 in the morning to do to adapt to the team. Inside that Shanghai girl. Our mutual beckoned. I do not want to speak. A little rest. They are a few in the technology and equipment to the bag loading .
Then the road. Is even more deplorable. I have to go a bit perverted ~ This section of the slope were 40_45 degrees. Walk a very difficult ~
No one can help you at this time. Do not count on someone will help you ~ take 20 steps to rest a bit, stood there big mouth breathing.
At this time. Mind a blank, are just mechanically move. Silently struggling to go upward, like a slave labor in prison. On to the C1 is around 7:00 ~!
Backpack thrown to the ground. The moisture pads and sleeping bags are thrown into the tents. Then again into the tent next to the technology and equipment. Saw a jade Everest peak .. took some pictures. Inside their tents. Trance.
I felt a splitting headache. .. A little晕晕of the severe facial swelling with fever ~ ... a little bit is always a feeling I am in a place not far from my looking at my own ~ ~
Mi pushed morning woke me. This fascinating stats slowly. Asked me whether or not to drink ... His voice was floating Miao ... so my ears are not allowed to effect right ...
I shook my head. He did not know shouted out what is ... the voice ... saw the tent along the outer edge of the city's Old Chang leaning against the side made a tent to stay ...
And outside the sway of the image ~
Camp feeling good quiet. Through the accounts doors, overlooking the sun gone down to the distant horizon, the valley has long been hidden in the shadows, seemed a bit mysterious, Xuefeng and our tent is still being enveloped in the golden afterglow of rare one to see the beautiful shape so that you can not.. This is the fate, I know it will soon disappear, but still strongly hope that it will become a permanent presence. Maybe. That is what I aspire to ~ ~
Dream ~ has just started ... continued. Distance. Sky. The land .... oxygen. ~ Distance is full of traps. Be like insects. Crawling. A door. I opened it. Went forward. ~ There are no roads in front of the foot is falling into the abyss ... go ... a dazzling green!
At 5:00 on April 28, 2004 starry cold C1 5600 Mi today Tianxie I were a new chapter in the history of life!
Out of snow removal boil water ..
Gas furnace issue of silk, silk pleasant voice, you can even hear the voice of the pot bubble burst, three men sitting around, who does not speak. The water was opened, they are not hot, where elevation of 5600 meters , boiling water, only about five, 60-degree bar. water boil some coffee ... Mi morning to help us two people were filling the coffee pot. (Mi-chen has been really very grateful to my care.)
8:00 am. All in the finishing technologies and equipment. I was wearing a seat belt, it was found yesterday on the old boy up in Guilin colleagues Yellow Mountain. It seems that he must and we hoisting the ...
At this point I find that I brought a little flat belt. Xing Weidong lent me a good one ~
Incidentally, Weidong explained some ice walking notes and adoption of a road to justice when you want to pay attention to. And then to bring us together hoisting 9. This is our A group of nine individuals have played a role in encouraging ...
Replaced by high altitude boots card good crampon. Went to the snow line at. Ready to climb up ~
Before Zhang Colombia stuffed into my mouth, throat throat lump of gold is very effective ~ Po ...
Just started to demand some slow speed. Finally stabilized at around 30-step break time, so it got hung where road rope. Risers left hanging in the way of the ropes. His right hand leaning on a walking ice ax.
Caine difficult upward climb. Gradually the team apart. HAO Li has been rushed to the top of ... physical well being so I was shocked ~
The back edge of the city's Old Chang .. risers linked to the road loaded with ropes on a fall. Since the headquarters of what is done that oxygen-carrying capacity of the test apparatus. Mr. Chang has not been a good mood.
Because it tested only 50% of his oxygen. Can we not depressed do?! ~
To be more steep climb to the top of the road some, but imagine if the snow is not thick, saving a lot of physical strength. Finally there are a lot of light over 200 meters of ice, making it easy Huazhui, and good alpine rope collaboration paved the way ahead, we use up device to walk, it does not feel in danger ... only once in the light and break the ice. suddenly down a bit. so scared I'm a cold sweat. immediately stood up when kneeling down to his right hand holding up the rapid ice ax into the ice. This assured.
All the way. Continued to rise. Big mouth breathing. Hang hang soon. Risers in bringing ropes hanging in the road. Each time you change to another way ropes are the burst of dizzy. So he can only run in accordance with an ice ax big mouth breathing. some areas will be slippery. holding ice ax, step by an interpolation, maintains the balance.
Stop-go, and my heart silent a few steps, every 30 steps and rest for a while. To be reduced to 20 steps or 15 steps take a rest, but also getting smaller and smaller steps, rest more and more time. Brain drowsy break over time it will sleep in the past. sleep several times, was again behind the Li Qiang and the old boy woke up. (I know very clearly in it to sleep. if it was asleep. it is also awake, but come on . ~) They both are in the back has been jokingly. like a little thing like. old boy in from time to time to remind me so happy I want to point something ~ ~!
At this time the pace of their feet to do as a ruler measuring distance, and sometimes there is overlap footsteps only half a step half-step to take. I would like to know how long climb, and raised his left hand, right hand wrist aside the layers of clothes at this time on a time is 12:34!
(Rest of the time. Qiang lost half a power bar with half a meter away. No one has to take it back ...)
Away from the peak around getting closer ... so quiet. I can only hear the voice of breath ....
13:10. Facing a large piece of flat land football field, tens of meters outside the legislature with a 3-meter-high measuring tripod, I know, has been successfully summited.
I knelt at an altitude of 6178 meters the highest peak in the Kunlun jade Mount Everest on the side of Shandong cried a while. I do not know why I cry out ~ did not think there are still tissues of my Jackets. Mojin I had to pick up phone. To is to first get it to used. Then I phoned the club reported that the top of Minden at the side of a daze ~ and let me take pictures of the Cui Kai ... Show Qifeng outdoor flags.
Ability to climb to the top of the worries and doubts have vanished into thin air. I think this is, I also completed a plan of my climbing.呵呵~ I was sitting that the U.S. does. Weidong speaking descent immediately. Far out of a snowstorm is taking shape ...!
So the rising and fast tuner card to the way ropes. Descent ~
Down relatively quickly. But the I still do not feel complacent. By the time the ice is too bright. Much less sloppy. Huazhui once. In this ice simply not on the brake!!!
Asthma is still very powerful. Or go for a while. Stopped to rest a while ~
Fortunately, very safe walk at the snow line. Look back at the summit has been clouded. And Piaoqi snow. Lang choke the go C1.
Inability to kneel on the ground. Up two mountains in collaboration helped me to win come from her backpack. And help me to high altitude boots off. Put down the package needs good housekeeping practices. Gave me back the body. I started HAO Li all the way evacuated to base camp the next! C1 withdraw from the camp even more miserable. snowing again. There was windy. the body severely overdrawn. .... I really wanted to jump from the C1
Descent on the road. A group met last group of teams on the C1. There is of Hunan Television. The rest are on the do not know how. Have patted me on the shoulder. For my ascent congratulations ~ It feels really好.
Now I feel I'm hungry ... head quickly discharged three kind of food. First, Apple. Second, the Coca-Cola. The third is the fish. Just want to eat these three things.
Down from the hills, two in collaboration. One helped me to pack he wore in high altitude boots away. Gaode I am very moved!!!
Down to the base camp is the time. 6:00 is more. (Zhang brother standing in a place not far away from the base camp to pick me and HAO Li.)
I went straight to the kitchen. To the apple to eat. Bowl and then eat it. Next to the minibus waiting for us. Overnight back to Golmud. The package has been put away and looked back after the jade Everest. Have not see the top了...(后来听说二组遭遇暴风雪.被迫下撤到大本营!)
上车后一眼就看到山东淄博的那个记者.笑呵呵的和我击掌.以示祝贺.随后我在车上为了我们原来一直在一起的七个人致感谢词~~~:)
回去的路上又看到野驴在不远处追着我们的车跑了一段路...车里面弥漫着藏式的歌曲...有些山友已经睡着了...这时我感觉我生活的很幸福~~:)
(有记者问过已故著名登山家马洛里一个非常简单的问题：“为什么去登山？”马洛里只说了一句：“因为山在那里。”这位著名的登山家已经遇难50多年了，这个“简单”的问题到现在也没有一个标准的答案。是呀，因为山在那里。业余登山活动不会因为山难而停止，登山者不会停止攀登。只是每个人应该更加理智的有选择的去登山，这包括攀登的山峰、领队的能力及素质、队友的基本情况、自己的能力及心态等等，用一个平和的心态去接触和感受登山，安全地回来享受生活给予你的一切. )
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