Sunset 3:00 Mingsha along the cold track, the train is rumbling forward. My companion sat in the warmth of the carriage, looking out the window of the moonlit wilderness of passing and always accompanied by our little starlight, heart simmer Yi Gu unspeakable emotion. There is excitement, there are a trace of anxiety, as is about to be thrown capsule astronauts. Capsule? Yes! Is the capsule. This remote wilderness of the universe as it deserted, and we are going to be air-dropped a location that is our first stop of this trip - Dunhuang.
And get off at the railway station bound for Dunhuang Transfer liuyuan CMB, and then through the whole three hour drive, we finally stand on the "Dunhuang Hotel" in front.
Settled accommodation, packed luggage, we boarded to "Mogao Caves" and "surface." Car window sun light was dazzling, drowsy, the "surface" gradually passing out of the oasis, into the vast Gobi Desert. When the picture card in the common image of a cave far from the column, and yet very clear when you appear in front of us, I felt very tacky to say the sound: "Mogao Grottoes, I come!." Hurry before finishing in large temples, "to this one travel" photos, with the crowd, and tours of the colored flags, on the moment, we were directly drawn into the glory of ancient China.
With regard to the Mogao Grottoes of China and the United States and shelter peerless history of blood, there too much text. Although I am also want to own perception of letters of some, but worried that their text be unworthy of her beautiful and could not bear to put pen to paper. The most profound image is 3 "beauty Buddha" engageante Such is Life's eyes; known as the "Oriental Mona Lisa" was a blur of clay across the mouth of the mysterious Millennium smile; attracted long-standing "Jiu Selu" group painting Village of the Northern Wei Dynasty Cuhao style show; Hangyunliushui the lines reveal the code of dress of the Tang Dynasty Qiyun; of course, how a team has also taken a team could not finish, so we want an explanation in Chinese and not Japanese travel team.
From the Mogao Grottoes coming out of the vortex is already nearly 2:00 pm. The United States and the United States, I ate a bowl of noodles plus a fragrant Rouga Mo, returned to the hotel a little rest a bit in the morning's appointment to "Mingsha Mountain" in the driver that open-Xiali small group has been waiting for us downstairs a.
"Mingsha Mountain"? "Mingsha Mountain Park"? Behind walls inside that pile of sand looks really well-known as a park, or even just one set, with the legend of the desert has a big contrast there is no point for us is simply a threat. Sun is still Zhi Lie, camels carry the park from the city, from the waterfront, from the rivers and lakes, from the woodlands visitors from afar, along the draw a good line in the "desert" where circuitous walk, Silk Road to meet the people's dreams. Despite being ring fenced away iron Aura of the Crescent Moon Spring side of the reed is still soft. But in addition, it seems that there was nothing impressive in the. Thus, when the sun was finally exposed as a gentle hint of reeds, we decided to climb up sand from the shady side of the mountains to see the sunset.
Take off his shoes and tread barefoot in the sand there Yu Wen, the sand suddenly submerged in the instep. Repeated in a step by step going up, sliding down the rhythm, we began to revisit childhood memories of happiness on the sand. Along the way, it was deliberately kept falling, or legs deep into the sand, or free-lying sand Zi Si surface, or simply marked with a number on the roll in the sand on the children, as happy as Sahuan of the lamb, but the two pairs of the cities have a sore foot is gradually feeling. In this way, "HAPPY pain", we climbed to a distance, such as the sharp edge of the ridge in general. The curve of sand beam irradiation in the sunset of the whisk, gently at the foot of the extension, from yellowish brown to red soil, like a reddish moist sheen brocade. Dunhuang County, living in harmony with the distance of the green seems so unbelievable. The sun is sinking down to the irresistible, at the foot of gravel temperature is rapidly receded, we finally catch up in that round thing disappeared before his left one is surrounded by warm red images. Wrapped in clothes, hung with cameras, leaving for waist bag, a hand with hiking shoes, a laptop with mineral water bottles, just like a bright red Christmas tree.
Come sit down! Xi Wan Shun will be placed on the ridge on his back to the sunset, very comfortable sun "back so-called shell." Gentle wind began to blow up the wind blowing through the cheek. The clouds gathered in the air slowly, slowly the dark days, and across the sand beam Napian than the memory of all of the twilight are more and more beautiful red sunset in the unfettered enthusiasm of bare her last. "Sunset line a thousand miles." Thought of in the coming days, we will face one after another sunny day, I have a deep breath.
So sat until the moon, Dongshan, Ding Fei sound in the ears of the crowd surging gradually fade, Star has been flashing his head before the thought suddenly, far away coming to a Mingsha did not have even tried to listen to its roar. (Only the sun slide down from the peak, only to hear the roar of sand.) But what is the relationship? To spend money to rent two 10 skateboards, find a delay point of view, Yang Touxiang days, enjoying the deep blue and surrounded by the starry sliding quietly happy, like the fame.
Mercedes-Benz in the Turpan dawn, the train arrived in Turpan station. The air filled with the smell of hot, like summer night in Chongqing, so familiar. "Fire Island" - really well-deserved reputation! Travel information provided on the reference price, after some tough bargaining, 250 dollars, a bag down a red Xiali, started the day's journey.
Good road, the driver (and a sister, Shandong, Sichuan-law) the car was very mighty, the frightening, but also removed a lot of sleep. Look out the window, the ground boundless, Star overwhelming, only the straight highway extension in the Gobi Desert tenacious, demonstrating the power of humanity. Gradually, the horizon emerged in the gray dawn, and some low-light sweep in our face, and thin.
Just nine o'clock, we have become the Western Cape in the Turpan "Jiaohegucheng" The first batch of tourists. This was born in the city years ago with its hoary khaki-colored lines in the first time we saw him conquer us. Rows, one column, repeat the monotonous yellow earth fort, or upright, or equatorial, the same as riddled with problems, the same silence silent, and only through the understanding of the roadside signs was once a tall gate, where the once a civilian home, this one is his official and that one is a temple. Along the "Central Avenue" in the middle of the river is located in the ground a willow-type high walk through the ancient city center. Along the way, we seem to tunnel through time and space, touching the gravel has been the Millennium wind erosion, leaving only a slight blur distant colors and brush strokes, and has a rich colorful history. This is a long dry side of the deep well is the sound of flowing water had Lvshanchuitiao Smile! Those who walk through its narrow alleys off Ye Guiren again are thinking it? Thousand years ago, there was so much life in here, reproduction, birth, growth, freedom in the sun love and hate, and then aging, dying, into dust in the dust, wiped out, and they also have with us the same loneliness and sad? In those Ruleiguaner historic city, piled up from the primitive age to modern and every trace of every age, people are busy in their own land at the foot of erase traces of their predecessors, leaving their footprints, so that history is becoming Chaos. Only here, the power of nature with their own people to continue to push back the subsequent accumulation of traces in an effort to keep the history the next section, so that another person was able to see the original at the time. Vaguely remember the information that the Tang Dynasty when the Suzaku of Changan Avenue, Beijing than it is now also a broad, previously I was always skeptical. Today, when I face this north-western edge of the city's temple remnants - a wall when the wall of their enormous, I have no reason not to believe, was the heart of Asia - Chang'an Chang'an Avenue in the city there is no greater than the present one is also to the broad avenue it?
Out of the ancient glory, we drove to another human miracle - Karez. Carefully along the wet stone steps down to go, in a lush shade under 3-5 meters in the underground depths, we encounter streams trickling sluggishly from the Tian Shan. This is the Uygur people of the underground drainage canals, the oasis of Turpan-Lu Fan, source of life. The Uygur girl beside him with the explanation of what seems to be that if all the Karez waterways together, you can kind of how how. Tube, he does! Anyway, my favorite is this clear stream, which brings me cool shade meaning. Do not blame me for not Karez a long history of originality of the open channel culverts, large scale of the works tirelessly 11 come, here is the "Fire Island" Tu Lu Fan, time 11:00, was able to sit on here and now is in such cool, I can mind? However, the immediate shock of Heaven let the United States of Uygur girl skirt fluttering garment, hand-drum-sounding ears only.
Red of the leased vehicle to continue the rapid advance of its color so that the air around the doubly hot, and even the head of the wind can no longer descend quickly retreated heart of "steaming hot." Also stingy hot afraid we have decided to not enter the "Sugong Tower," a detour back door, picking off a vine in the next, and this one have been known for a long time, like all records it as gorgeous pictures of the tower and a towering a shadow, it is doing this for a visit. Vulgar bar! This can save a few dozen yuan ticket money, Oh!
Wheels roll forward, the car 2 from the "stove" Chongqing who has "Fire Island" formal declaration of surrender, and began to describe in their hearts, "Grape Valley" of the shade comfort. Might have wanted too beautiful, and when we are really into this one blocks out the sun shade, so that a whole string of a whole string of grapes swell eyes, the still feel a bit disappointed. Because here too commercial issue? Or is it because too many pretensions of the emerging "landscape"? Fortunately, napping under the grape trellis is never seen before; Fortunately, delicious horse breast, seedless still can freely eat; Fortunately, for the first time in his hand, and boiled mutton is the pilaf was so fragrant people covet, and can we feel happy in!
Three in the afternoon, out of the "Grape Valley" and we started to the last stop - "Flaming Mountains" forward. Vehicle speed is still fast, so that the drying raisins in these clusters are then a small house team, who constantly "kowtow" in oil production machine we had a chance to ask drivers to stop for a moment of fast passing from the eyes, retreat. Flying in general, we came to even the Monkey King are almost "hanging" of the "Flaming Mountains." Knowing that only a rich red mountain folds, there are still people from all sides to seize a favorable position and an engraved "Flaming Mountains" in the name of the big rock group photo. We naturally can not escape.
Hurry back to town, a bath, in the bazaars Chiba mutton soup and chicken, we boarded the train station bound for Pakistan, a day trip to Turpan thus hastily wrapped up. When I look out the windows, dust and light work together to build through the fog, he saw a broad, disappeared the smooth waters of the current uncertain quiver in the Gobi Desert in the boundless, I believe I saw a mirage.
Korla fell in love with another night, "nocturnal army" Meng Meng bright days, we went to Korla, the country's largest self-Island - Island Bayinbuluke Mongolian capital of self-government. The bus sat in a clean car, watching the conductor gains and make use of idle hands rag Shica cars, chewing of "Korla" This reads like it rich, like the pear Cuisheng the name of hygiene, we begin to understand why the layers of sand it is still maintained under siege by the "National Health City" in the title.
The first long-distance narat bought tickets to go the next day, and then sit down to a small public Bosten Lake. Car a city we fall asleep, woke up had come to Bohu County Terminal. East beat the West to listen to something, we are on the bus bound for big mouth, a look at while traveling, or the old car a few people. We all had to go look at the largest freshwater lake in Xinjiang, but also unwilling to go to tourist spots with the mission of the FIT Ai Zai. The way to the mouth of a Mongolian old aunt came to visit relatives, but forgot to place. Long with a typical Mongolian faces of the conductor with the gentle cooing of the Mongolian and her Jiji consult with, not Shihai back to explain that to meet those of us curious stranger. Carriage close to the respect for the elderly in Korla City issued the slogan, full of harmony Mongolian-style atmosphere.
Public transportation vehicles are becoming increasingly muddy bumps on the road with the window tells us that a growing number of reeds, lake pretty soon. Locals say that this time Bosten floods, making roads were flooded, and I do not know whether the bus arrived in today's fishing. "Flood? Gobi where floods will be?" Had a chance to listen to people's interpretation of the window has emerged a submerged primary schools. Then the police station was flooded, was flooded gas stations have been flooded ... .... A few steps, the surface of the water are becoming increasingly open, the road has become lower than the surface of the water. Finally, the driver said, went to this bar, in front of it does not really go on. But never mind, we have seen not far from parking in front of fishing boats. Boats have fish, with fish on the ... ... Ha ha ha! Known world had heard of the five black yet? But we went all the way this came one of the major reasons for this yo!
Am to noon, baked fish in the lake only two stalls. Select a sit down, breath-point of the five black, a small tribute fish, shrimp, carp number, a taste of what I had not forgotten. And the newly acquainted with the "Mix" pointing Jiangshan, freely about rivers. Mouth is a delicious grilled fish, before your eyes are shrouded "smoke," so as a "heroic" scene. My companion was amazed to eat again.
Delicious meal of grilled fish dinner down, everyone decided to go to the lake to stroll. 50 yuan an hour, we boarded a small wooden boat. The sun shining, the increasingly wide near the lake was calm and lonely. Inter-trance I went back that year had visited the lake alone. Gentle and boundless like the reed, the same boundless tenderness of the water, like Smart's waterfowl, like the rustic wooden boat. Increasingly deep water color is just so I have some fear.
Return on the road, met the former but not the tail not seen after the first tomato fleet. The driver asked for a number of small tomatoes Changxin, sour sweet, taste good. Grilled fish, tomato, friendly, clean, I seem to have fallen in love with it because of oil rich city.
Narat the bright Autumn morning, from the kunas valley early on the morning mist and in order to heat up the engine launched by the sound of waking up. Looking back yesterday from the town of Cumberland Taiwan to climb the Tianshan Valley interchanges north and south veins Aiken Da Sakamoto difficult journey out of the window when low gold gold red and crushing plants in the riverbed, the Qinglie torrent streams, and the subsequent endless Setsurei wilderness, and the immediate kunas forest scenery is very far apart. The sun shining on the river idly brush shrub forest, steep mountains, but the lush, river rapids, but Roumei Keren. I am wondering, is located in the hinterland of the narat Tianshan would use today, what kind of "beauty" to meet us.
Bus westbound along the Tianshan Valley track towards our car window glide in tandem with the heartbeat of the scene, even more rapid. The legendary Tianshan Is not that so? The more gradual gentle undulating mountains and hills glossy dark green glossy dark green grass, pine and cypress, becoming more open view of the asphalt road and the roadside brilliant golden white birch, color, more blue sky and the sky gradually Mingyan flawless translucent clouds, My God! Let me get off quick bar!
Car go there Pilates town, rented a few have argued unclear Used the "Beijing 2020", we have begun narat a beautiful trip.
Because the grazing season is necessary in the past two days along the way we have been encountered in descending from the mountain pastures of the herd. At first, we will also excited far from the car to stop, and so by the roadside, looking for a variety of angles and Yanger their photo. Times more, on the tired, just sat in the car, "looking to fight." The largest number of herds in the expression of naturally submissive Sheep, they are slowly from the car side, "shake" before, Dangling, I do not know we are doing too tired or too full to eat. Early autumn season, grass will be yellow is not yellow, but when the most abundant nutrient Oh! Back shoe looked forward to those dressing limping Sheung sheep, I pity aside, totally forget that he is also the United States and the United States the morning eating a bowl of mutton soup chowder. A new-born calf, due to physical ill-conceived, was the owner holds his life in the immediate completion of the first "long march", 2 bark, is wronged or shame? Only a Pijian Ma, mane shining, "cool" tail flying, filling a hero. Kazakh herders simple sturdy horse, a look of weathered copper, a joy and comfort of the outfit, at first glance, the film was clearly the hero is the West. Pastoralists on both sides of the road is the allocation of settlement, the settlers are shown a room surrounded by golden pasture, grassland Wang Dan's light is shining under the sun sparkling off the river and the river bizarre unknown trees, the river Wang Dan's light is under the sun green foothills of the foothills and pine forest green shade Cang, everything, everything is to seduce our hearts. Unfortunately, along the road are stopped up with the wire (in order to protect the grass). Hard to find a gap, I heard whistling, and we abandoned the vehicle and ran into a fabulous country. Of course, do not forget to bring warm clothes and put on head to keep out the sun,
Along the rugged paths, through dense bushes, walking to play, play while you shoot. In Al-Hasa kema car and pastoralists together a shadow, in the huts before and a cute little goat to play the game loggerhead; in the blue sky with white clouds, under a tree put together a "classic" look. Everything is a cozy. Exasperating is handsome horse chestnut horses, whenever it wants to join me in the camera lens intake, it turned to go, leaving the back of an arrogant.
On the train to move on. After a bridge, a Bay, we turned in the valley. Backlighting, the white birch leaves are translucent translucent sunlight, sparkling Shuoshuo in, like a small gold piece of the proud. Lively joy streams poured outside the car. Side of the stream there are small trees, shadow between a cattle, oxen and horses lay quietly, standing, or water, or bunk, too enviable ease. Not far away from them, is the owner of the tent. There is smoke, there are flavor released into the atmosphere. Along the way from time to time to see the words "pure pollen Tianshan Mountains," the words of the wooden plaque, it is time for the sale of flowers this season the last sweet. That bottles of golden yellow powder, brilliant as they were numerous sunny days when the sun collected.
The sun began to west, and the eyes are still the Xiuse parting with narat mind has begun to depict a glittering Bayinbuluke prairie l'etoile, 218 State Road (independent libraries road) winds in the Tianshan Mountains south veins, along it, In the evening we will arrive Bayinbuluke. Outside the car, a Mountain Road, a Road of water, a Road between the light and we are playing hide and seek in the mountains of the game. Countless times, we have in mind to imagine the sunset bathed in the Peak, overlooking the mountains of the heroic. To catch up to! To the Ridge to see the sunset!
Night must come, our "2020" and finally climbed to the summit of the mountains. The car stopped at the Ridge, this time is already popular in mountains, row of trees to make dye. Sun in the air of an oscillator potential want to fly out of the Fire Dragon, ear of the high winds to pass the Tianshan Mountains Beyond the Great Wall of pride. Oh, it's a beautiful Autumn narat this narat the bright Autumn, that light has been shone on my heart, straight warm to this day.
Bayinbuluke Teana noon 1:00, we are in bed. Is not to be lazy. 7:00 am, we got up to go out. Bayinbuluke outside the town across the empty wilderness, in the open river have witnessed the thin morning mist in the steppe between the shrouded hills, Cao Jian-yang on the dew at first under the melt, and even an avalanche of orange light like sweep the entire block small town moment. We are waiting, and so when the swans returned to nest in the evening. Looked at the Olympic Games coverage, but a bit absent-minded. Because we all know that we are waiting for is a life-long memorable afternoon. But did not yet understand that people's imagination with the reality is more together, after all, still lack a lot of levels.
Afternoon two points, we set off to Swan Lake. Is still a "Beijing 2020", but Driving Status is so much better. Master Wang is a town car television, not only driving skills amazing talking Hejing County, "Baby," who is very familiar. Shiren Mountain, Qingren Gu, kunas, nine river, of course, to master most proud of is the Swan Lake. He promised us that he lead the way, can not see the Swan is not closed car hire.
"Beijing 2020" along the grassland is crowded with many of staggered forward fast forward extension of rut, and our feelings also will fly up. The impression that green piece of good news is the school of the prairie autumn scenery, take a closer is a golden grass golden grass stems, Yuan Wang is a golden grass golden grass satin blanket. That satin is not very appropriate, despite the intense sun of the prairie like satin as suffused with flickering light, but it is more accurate to say that yes, as an immense carpet of golden yellow gold, sparkling, and soft and thick for. Sky, a Bi-10000 dump, it intractable in blue from head to the days of the end of the gradual Talking continues, the sky clouds projection on the blanket in the grass, which is a beautifully embroidered blanket on the bar! Near the vehicle, with vision in the Bujibuxu arrogant camel walk, there is a unique black white Bayinbuluke the body of the grazing sheep in the lazy (which looked very like the head of Mongolian sheep black cloth of the criminals, We called it "bank robbery sheep"). Grasslands, in front of us opened his arms wide.
Zhe Xiang also greedy sucking the beauty out of the window, did not pay attention to our "2020" has to enter in a shallow hills. Gradually, the ups and downs of big hills up in some places even reached 45 degrees (no exaggeration!). But the driving skills are not first-class Chef Wang slow down the vertical toward the front of the ramp as if hurling up, and then from the same side of the vertical drop will be down, occasionally vacated on the exchange for a while we exclaimed. Wheezing undetermined, but also a wall "grass wall" head descend quickly. I sat in the front row, hand the car handles, as the car kept moving rapidly climbing under the threshold of doing the pre-V heads off of strenuous exercise, and the king master of Mongolian song loud singing, like a roller coaster ride, like stimulation, enjoyable.
Increasingly reaching the high ground - Bayinbuluke television tower, not far from which Chef Wang pointed a large glistening in the sun shining dots of the boundless swamp, said that Swan Lake has.
It wants to Yao? Legendary, imaginary, and leads people to think that life inside the lake? It is vast, even from afar. It is also beautiful, even if it's arms did not give it the name of the swan. It is close to me, and sat a few days and nights in the train, car, jeep later, it seems still far away from me, because it looks like it is in line not with me in the same world. Toward it, whether it means that Ben from the world?
Another round of bumps Jixing, we stood in front of it.
Swan Lake is an altitude of 2,500 ~ 3,500 meters, an area of about 250 square kilometers of low-lying wetlands, lakes when the water surplus, water deficit when Ze. Every spring, tens of thousands of swans from India and southern Africa through the winter, flew back to where habitat and prospered. Here is a place where most of China's Swan. Coupled with lake shores and other live large number of waterfowl, all around, surrounded by peaks, endless grasslands, known as a haven for birds is not an exaggeration. I stood on the lake, by a bright red ring paternity a waterfront plant, the eardrum has been frightened off by the 1000 waterfowl wings hit the tremolo haunted, as one would like to find a beautiful swan posture.
"Come, come!"
On the surface of the water not far in front, the two go hand in hand in the king master of the White Swan's pointing to our eyes under the撞入. Qu the neck, bathed in golden sunlight slowly paddle, as all text, pictures the praise, as elegant, noble. Is more real than words, than the picture more lively, more similar than the zoo holy than to imagine a more beautiful ... ... (tell me there is no other adjective). My heart has been a burst of ecstasy tightly Qin Zhu, carries a camera, hold your breath, Mao Zhaoyao began slowly to move closer to them. To listen to Chef Wang say that traveling is always an adult pair of swans, which were just two adults. "Ha! Two early love of the swan!" Take the camera Kuangpai at a stretch. Just watched them disappear in the reed bundle, the side also found two small, like family and old lined up with three swimming from the front, and finally staged the most popular programs of the wings and take off. This is simply is simply too, too ... ...
More and more warm colors of light, and swan image sitting in the backlighting, the is so untrue. Pick up the shore for a swan feathers, across the palm, that feeling of gently Rourou, Ruoyouruowu, it was not to me more realistic. To remain a shadow bar! In order to prove that I had been to before, with the growth of these freedoms beautiful creatures so close. Even if in a dream like memories, but also to have made this dream I have proof.
Xi Chen gradually to the sun, the wind began to play with a coolness, but we still refuse to leave. Quiet, standing water's edge, behind the Golden velvet unlimited extension of volatile grasslands, before your eyes are as blue as the days of the lake and as blue as the lake of days. Snow-capped mountains spread out, the word array Hydra-like, in the Lake Wang Dan's light reddish crystal of the SG, and enjoyed themselves in the light sparkling off the land away from the images, there are voiceless swan came from all faint. Is a heaven? Of a strange thing from the bottom of my heart rushes out of Zhizhuang into my eyes, let me want to cry, to laugh, like desperate cry. Cry? Sentimental tarnished his mortal fear of this god's home; laugh? But the first place? Qu Han effort to exhaust the body, but I do not know to chant the words of Tibet where it is. Finally, the vision of all is still slowly blurred. Is the light is too dazzling a bar! I told myself. Red Dust was removed on the day, we are right and wrong, we just like the Greek legends were holding, a long time away from the mother's giant Aetna. Aetna from his mother earth to learn the body of nutrients to help him heal and grow. At the moment I have a Veronika, these are the natural, it is seductive, meditatively, Yang Xin, in the face of such beauty, as well as what is fit for?
The return trip, two crane suddenly appeared in front of the car with open wings dance in the sunset years, I have jumped with the fastest car at the moment with their electro-optic Firestone together in a shadow. Although the pictures they have a very small figure, but I still feel God when I Qi-thick also! Swallow belly of the cold-water fish for later, for the king sent two huge master full of snow lotus, to Milky Way seen last night, for this grassland with my affinity for all beings, I miss you!
WEST! EAST!
- A running account on the first day of the journey to the west at noon 1:00, sitting in the town of the mouth of Bayinbuluke Uygur restaurant waiting to no avail, come from the southern border of Pakistan to open bus but has not yet appeared in our line of sight at the end.
Boredom, I am playing the opposite retro "Toyota" bread idea. It was a team of Hong Kong's mini travel luggage car, drivers face a beard, do not see age, people in Urumqi, Uighur, a little simple and honest, but also a little bit "crafty cunning." Pilates Bayinbuluke go there from the ride, his asking price 150 yuan. I do not worry, one said no, they turned away, expect he will come to us, anyway, he was idle this car is idle. Sure enough, in front of passengers in the car a walk, he walked over to us ... ...
25 yuan! We are riding on a bound narat a "chartered." Down always so maneuvering, and soon, we returned to the narat, and lucky riding on a westward-bound train at the end of a new source. After repair, transfer a lot of trouble, days dusk, when a team of neat, as if through to the horizon, lit the lamp lights in our eyes. The new source is up.
The next day to continue to the west overnight Hao Shui, as early as 7:00, boarded the bus bound for Ili to continue westward. Misty rain, the Ili River valley dump 10000 fertile fields, the road on both sides of the slender birch rapid backward from the car window was broken, until the melt into the boundless rain and fog. All wet Debu like Xinjiang.
Arrived in Ili, a person I think of the border town of limitless. Wide roads, clean city, full of trees, as well as colored cross-street banners, such as sugar, tobacco and alcohol will be extremely organized when Chengdu. Shangcuanxiatiao at the station where to find "border office" to do the border card to the Horgos port, to the "border point" Uncle police asked:
"Go a few days?"
"Today."
"Go hasa it?"
"Could walk around in the country bar the door!"
"It Yongde Zhao, in this do? Directly on the car, the road will let you do naturally."
"... ...!"
Hinterland catch the train from the southwest, by bus, transfer CMB, sit three, and finally holding the border card to this north-western border of the Horgos Port, and do not mind a little down excited. Has long been clear up days, but wind and a lot and a mighty hurdle architectural appearance lie in front of us, there are vehicles in customs clearance, there are guards in the guard, as well as brightly colored flags fluttering in the wind, which is a gate. Facade in the market to buy on the outside a number of butter, chocolate, Russian doll, the bag back, put a stray POSS stay Zhang Ying, even for me so far have been to the most celebrated western latitudes!
As early as 8:00 the third day of the east, riding on a long-distance bus to Kuytun. On board two professional "donkey" has in Yunnan, Tibet, Xinjiang, swinging around the more than two months, OZARK backpack is eolian sounded. Their views, (passed through the local comparison) Xinjiang food, shelter and transportation is like in heaven, especially in Kashi, Yili these "good place."
Car all the way along State Highway 218 westbound, to the clean water Shui Changhe Town, a corner of the east onto State Road 312, a short while to enter a valley. Out at the scenery was very general, depressed vegetation, rocks scattered, people sleepy. Waking, the suddenly exclaim: could there be so many people here, wonderful pen is described as stunning has kept many of the fascinating people of the "guozigou"! ? Opposite map an operator, is really the case. Can be in front of all the clearly did not give me any wonderful paradise associations. The reason may be due to seasonal bar! After all, You Xiang forward a few days in winter, this mountain scenery, but said the climate as they please.
Auto Road with the winding climb slowly, gradually up to the top of the hill, after a brief traffic jams, open access to a Jiangya mouth, eyes suddenly appear an unexpected blue, caught in the road on both sides of the yellow earth and rock, the moment hard to tell that the sky is水. After a moment's surprise, I almost cried - "is Sailimuhu?!" Once the car out of Yakou Po, a blue, vast lake stirred up the full show on the left side of the road.
How can I describe the color of this lake do? I take it from this "lengthy" and Travels put pen to paper, I started to worry about a question. Deep Blue? Light blue? Blue? Sky Blue? Indigo blue? Sapphire? Melancholy Blue? Quiet blue? Plateau sky blue? Tropical sea blue? Incredible blue? Inexplicable blue? A mess of blue? ... ... Drowning person's blue? All-inclusive, and yet extremely pure, cardiac soul shake, but unspeakable. At this moment, I am in the car, it is in the car, I ran forward, it Shizumi in place. I can not touch the body of its true and can only try to figure out its unpredictable expression. It looks very big area, there is the beautiful curve of shore, standing on its side, whether it will see Xuelang face? It is a very ice water should be a very ice bar! Him Chu Shui into the heart, the palm will also infected with touch of light blue? Looked around, the grass is brown, even nine or ten o'clock the sun can not arouse their enthusiasm, distant mountains and bare lonely, there is snow pressure body, there are clouds coerced, all seemed quite losing their leaves. With this piece, as long as the blue, it is sufficient to continue eastward extension of the road along the shoreline, let us revel in a full 45 minutes before an Guaiqu to the vast Gobi Desert. My long time Fangcai Huiguoshenlai opened atlas. "Sailimuhu, also known as" three Haizi ", the lake elevation of 2073 meters, an area of 457 square kilometers in Xinjiang's highest and largest alpine lake ... ...." Atlas wrote. "But why does it do so blue?" A perverse problems and with this piece of perverse blue linger in my mind ever since, and will linger from this ... ...
Happy Mo Guicheng "What! Kanas snow? Do not go up is necessary to seal off it? Well, well, we come at once!"
In this way, the original appointment, were strolling through Mo Guicheng, and then with the Kanas's "Mix" is a phone call away by. Mo Guicheng left of us could not bear to be on the isolated town deep in the Gobi - Urho.
Indiscriminately to deal with a meal for lunch, and then some cold for the last Kanas purchase gloves, hats, look for cars Xiali, we embark on the road to visit the devil.
Leased vehicle a smooth exit town fled to the depths of the Gobi. Gradually, the road on both sides of strangely shaped mound began to rise more. Eyes behind groups of soil ridge approaching complex to us again receded, strange, claws. Road surface there is a mound of colorful markings not so obvious. Now if tour guides, will be very "professional" tell me: what is here, where what is in front of the mound is what the change, at the foot of this piece is Shuishui who is left. The Queen Mother of the tub, King's boots, Siv's fairy, evil Pride And Prejudice, Mr. guides them altogether is a good material ladies. But with this piece of natural sculpture of various shapes, I just thought of a place - Jiaohegucheng. Is not it? "This was born in the city years ago with its hoary khaki-colored lines in the first time we saw him conquer us. Rows, one column, repeat the monotonous yellow earth fort, or upright, or equatorial, the same as 1000 sores 100 holes, the same silent silent ... ... "With just the" millennium "change to" billions of years "is" Mo Guicheng "give my first impression.
细细看来,还是有很大的不同。交河故城的土堡更连贯、更统一。而这里更多是昂首卓立的孤“峰”。更不同的是我们的心绪,没有了人文历史的沉重,有的只是如顽童般的开心愉悦。在我们眼里,这分明便是一个巨大的主题公园,生动而集中的“秀”出西部的蛮荒与苍凉,炙热与灿烂。来到这样一处所在,我们很难抑制住自己内心的疯狂和未泯的童心,以至于后来检点留影时发现一个有趣的现象,在“魔鬼城”拍摄的照片我们特别爱SHOW:在土壁夹道的大路中央摆一个黄飞鸿的架势;在有优美线型纹路的沙滩上留一行“探索者”的脚印;背对夕阳,在沙面上映一个长长的影子……翻来覆去,乐此不疲。看来,在大自然创造性的杰作面前,我们自己的创造性和表演欲也被充分的发掘出来了,可有一点“班门弄斧”的意思?
在“城”里厮混到五六点钟,少见多怪的捡了不少石英块和仿似玛瑙的石头,不留心已是黄昏时分,也该跟“魔鬼”告辞了。夕阳斜照下,朴拙的土堆焕泛出短暂的辉煌,金黄、灿烂而温暖。
从“魔鬼的宫殿”回到人间,转身看见街面上的饭店幌子,就发觉肚子有点饿了。
东转转,西看看,我们钻进了一家回族小馆,指名要吃大盘肚。老板一脸歉意的过来,手里还拿着一个红艳艳的大苹果。 “不好意思,没肚子了,就吃大盘鸡好么?自家养的,马上杀。保证新鲜!来,先吃个苹果吧!”
啃着香脆的苹果,看着奥运转播,感觉没等多久,香喷喷的大盘鸡就上了桌。夹一块鸡肉放进嘴里,那美味马上就让我们忘却了错失大盘肚的小小遗憾。 “比石油路那家可是好吃多了!”“那当然,人家可是正宗。”一阵风卷残云,眼看整盘鸡就快被消灭,我们却意犹未尽。 “老板,再下一份面条。”香滑筋斗的拉面一上桌,就赢来一阵赞叹,再拌上香浓的大盘鸡,那味道简直……简直就甭提了。 “旅疆二人组”一致公认:这是整个旅程中最为美味的一餐。
“酒足饭饱”之后,我们相互“搀扶”着走出店门,走在戈壁小镇寂静的街道上。空气略显干燥,有风轻轻掠过,感觉清爽无比。原来魔鬼城的夜晚也可以如此美好。
哈纳斯——梦境与现实夜雨,晨雾。
早九点,北京2020正驶进阿尔泰山脉深重的雾里。从哈巴河县城去哈纳斯大概有六小时山路。车行颠簸,身处浓雾包围中的我们昏昏欲睡。窗外,白桦、红松影影绰绰,“黄金阿尔泰”(阿尔泰山既盛产黄金,亦盛产秋日金色的白桦林)的迷人面孔被暂时隐藏起来,但“雾里看花”又别有一番味道,更何况这浓雾意味着昨夜山间的大雪以及午后更灿烂的阳光。
果然,天色愈走愈亮,到正午抵达铁列克边境检查站时,阳光已彻底征服整个铁列克小镇。镇上俊俏的白桦林包围着原木修成的“木刻楞”小屋,一清到底的溪流在树林的班驳光影间欢快的流淌,亮晶晶的,凉丝丝的。溪流上有用原木搭建的木桥,好一派朴实的异域风情。
用过午饭(有点贵!),我们继续向山岭深处驶去。一路上,车上的破录音机不停放着快乐的港台歌曲,我们也和着司机一起快乐的哼哼。车越行越高,车前,成群结队的雪山向我们展开或美丽或刚毅的面容,让我们欢呼得都倦了。遗憾的是,今年的雪来得太早,很多白桦的叶子还没红透,就随雪飘逝,想象中秋日燃情的风光被打了不少折扣。
又翻过一个山岭,岭下出现了一道深深的山坳,一条乳绿色的细细的河流在无数白桦的紧密簇拥下从山坳底部矜持的流过,除此以外便是连绵起伏的土黄色山岭和更远处依稀隐约的雪山。粗犷辽阔与娟秀缠绵在这里和谐的融为一体,为我平生所仅见。 “下面就是哈纳斯河,哈纳斯湖还在上游。白桦都是顺着水长。河对面是哈萨。这个地方叫'老树墩'。我们开车到这里都要停一下让客人拍照”。司机老到的介绍着。不错,看看周围,挂着各省牌照的各式越野车纷纷在此停留,“喀嚓”声不断响起。居然还有人在拍电影:一位身着苏军军服的哈萨克姑娘从坡下迎面走来,塞外边关的风轻啸着,吹伏脚下的秋日草丛,亦撩起帽檐下、额头上的丝丝金发,背景是一望无尽的壮美山川……看,拍电影不难吧!只是——风好冷啊!
车行至岭下,路边背阴处开始出现积雪,开始是小堆小堆的,后来竟然出现一整片被白雪覆盖的山谷。虽然雪很薄,但这是入疆以来,我们与冰雪的首次亲密接触。想起几天前,我们还奔驰于吐鲁番的连连热浪,真是恍若隔世。
下午4点,哈纳斯到了。确切的说,收费站到了。连司机一共150元,我们获得了驶进梦中仙境的“通行证”。
“哈纳斯”是蒙语“美丽富饶而神秘”的意思。湖面海拔1374米,南北长25公里,东西宽1.6~2.9公里,位于阿尔泰山茂密的温带森林间,如同一支狭长青涩的豆角。据说湖水的颜色会随着四季的更迭、晨昏的交替而变化万端,而特产的大红鱼也丰富着人们关于水怪的传说,难怪叫作“美丽富饶而神秘”。
走过一座低矮宽大的木桥,眼前出现好大一片如茵的草坪,脚下是干净的石板路,身边是崭新的英式草坪灯,居然还有各色仿制的欧式别墅——等等!好象有点不对!怎么这么别扭? !随石板路来到湖边,湖水清澈而深邃,但说不上是什么颜色。墨绿色的松树和黛青的山峦拥在湖岸,被风褪去华丽衣裙的白桦隐在其中,已没有撼动人心的力量。难道“美丽富饶而神秘”的哈纳斯就是如此平凡?为了弥补心中的失望,我们登上快艇向湖深处驶去,但除了耳旁飕飕的冷风,也没能抓住更多的东西。
经司机“介绍”,我们住进哈萨克人开的木屋接待站。二十来个床位,分成里外两大间,条件简陋、清冷。夜里,风在门缝间自由的穿梭,唯一的火炉在另一个屋,可能已经熄灭,身下三床被,身上三床被的我一时不辨身在何方。
清晨醒来,一下就闻到羊肉汤的香味。裹上绒线帽、围巾、手套还有所有的衣物冲出门去,山谷间特有的湿冷空气径直往鼻里钻来,新鲜得竟有些刺鼻。天还未大亮,四周的景物都带着一层淡淡的蓝色,牛奶样的浓雾笼在山间,该是哈纳斯的水气凝成的吧!
用过早饭,一队人骑马向月亮湾走去。马蹄声声,踏碎小水坑面上的薄冰,马背上的我顿感寒意难挡。湖岸愈近,晨雾愈发浓酽,隐约间似乎已走到水边。水面泛着些许的轻微亮光,被浓雾褪成单色的景物一层层向远处渐渐隐去。树木袅袅娉婷依水而立,四周人影绰绰寂静无声,尤如身处幻境。
继续向山上走去,雾气渐散,哈纳斯慢慢显露出它的原始风貌。天空是晴朗的,各色树木俏立湖岸山岭,黛绿的青松、金红的白桦、金黄的红松,还有亮白的桦树干点缀其间,演绎着色彩的融合与突变。不知是谁喊了一声“下面就是月亮湾”。果真,一湾细长的湖水蜿蜒在山谷茂林间,湖心是一种奇异的不透明的浅绿色,有点象国画颜料中的石绿。而深潭浅湾之间的色彩界线异常果断清晰,勾勒出一块巨大无比的无暇美玉,倒映出阿尔泰的北国山色。与“老树墩”所见相比,一样的大气,却少了粗犷添了秀美,又是另一番味道。
回程中,见一五色缤纷的湖心小岛,树木参差,岛岸曲折,美丽异常。策马向湖边走去。湖岸很软,马蹄一步比一步陷得深,心里便有了一份小小的恐惧。还好,马停步了,俯身喝起水来。忙唤人帮忙一张“策马啸西风”的留影,毕竟能“到此一游”的游客还是少数。
但——
为了迎来更多的游客,大规模的“旅游开发”正在以不可遏制的态势进行着。沿途的筑路大军砍翻大量的植物,甚至合围的参天大树。施工机械的轰鸣声不时响起,影响着我们的好心情。破坏是立竿见影的,但好生活却依然在远方。我们看见,除了那些拙劣的欧式别墅和新建的希望小学外,当地人的房屋内外依然十分简陋。而本该在希望小学里读书的小孩却已开始加入“旅游”服务的行列。也许一切事物发展都要以自然或人生的牺牲为代价吧!
哈纳斯,一个曾让人身临其中只想不停歌唱的地方,我该后悔与你相遇太晚,还是该庆幸为时尚早?你的未来又会是怎样?
作者:michelle91