2003-10-17, cloudy, Jomda - Dege, boarding Dege.
Until after dawn, get up, which is to go since the Sichuan-Tibet line, the only true one day to enjoy the dawn Lanjue. Jiang wife or the look of fatigue, it seems recovery is not very good, this worrying.
2:00 pm on the station talking to Kangding car, also disappeared, only to find another car. In the residence of the downstairs, I saw two vehicles, ran over to ask the driver, is to Kangding, and can bring us. We are the luggage down, this time the front there is space, not "carry a large box of" the.
Car quick opening, the Jiang Sheng changed his mind, he wanted to pack units continue to face the car, he was worried that she was bodily wife do not live, and they should. He asked me whether or not to join with them, I was suddenly embarrassed, first, the driver had already promised that the three of us sat down to their cars, even the luggage onto a cart, and second, when his own in Lhasa city wanted to set, and unless forced not to, I would have to take this trip by bus or car crossing the road to Chengdu, non-chartered corruption, and now the most difficult section we came, and then followed the road, how do I want to pursuing this path.
Up to the Sichuan-Tibet line, not that hard to by-point Mody?
I helped them win the luggage from the car, with the truck driver explained, to say that I will take his car, but the other two due to poor health continue to be chartered, he was sensible, not to hassle me. Bid farewell to a husband and wife, I started my journey of one person, hoping that they do not blame me at this moment to go with them separately. I will Sichuan-Tibet line has completed his own way, but will be able to, it is my wish.
Coincidentally, yesterday, with me, "carry big boxes" and that monks and Tibetan young man, but also came, and climb got on, They have also seen me, the language barrier, only with eyes and gestures to communicate.
About nine o'clock, two trucks start, and I was on the vehicle, the driver for the Tibetans, the car has sat a younger sister, Bomi people come together with the driver, this car is loaded back from the 81 the car is filled with engineering equipment. Just Shui on the road out of town fast, there are a bunch of Tibetans to be on the train for a long time to bargain with the driver, but finally all up, and a Tibetan young man got on a head, squeeze my side, he said in Chinese, good to see is seen in various aspects of society like the Tibetans.
Together with the driver came with the driver of the Bomi sister chat non-stop, got to the driver's capability to safe driving, along the way, danger constantly, several times have almost hit the car came with the opposite one went, the most dangerous one is a turn off from almost failed to get his head had not honk of a car to go to the riverside pushed the driver's face was pale, no half-day recovery, he himself said, "have either car is the vehicles, we have today all finished! "road is not wide, and two trucks did not slow down can not be wrong cars.
In my protest, Bomi sister reducing the frequency of chatting with the driver in the car smoked, smoking smoking, feeling wrong, smoke everywhere, "Fire!" I hastened to ask the driver to stop, we scramble to find fire source, was originally the back of the blanket on fire, and burned a large cave long.
In order to prevent re-engage in Bomi What happened to his sister, I have increased the frequency of Genta Liao days, asked her what a good place Bomi worth, she said a long time, and I do not understand what she says is the place. The Tibetan side is very good guy to talk about, take the initiative told me that a lot of words, all forgot what to say.
Leaving the county more than 20 kilometers of the place, parking, and wants to unload here in the repair of a hydropower station, the car was filled with used construction equipment. To find someone to wait for the next and others goods and get on to the one at noon. Goods under the exhausted, but also not seen to go, and asked the driver why and he said that such money, and probably one o'clock you can go.
Drivers should be money when the owner of any connection with a dispute occurs, the owner, said damage to equipment in the car to bear the responsibility of the driver, the driver said that the owner did not install a good car with the car is getting a good bet to go before the goods had not confessed that it is easy to loss of goods themselves and not a little loss. Sichuan-Tibet line to go, what goods can do it intact? Alas! In this way, squabbles between, the owner put on a leader to the call over, charge goods were hiding, and two drivers, kapa dense everywhere looking for her sister with car charge the shippers, said he Qianbian.
Seeing as early as one o'clock passed, and their disputes to grow bigger in no way could end up in sight. 2 car ride with about 89 people, this time the side curious only Circuit. It appears that they can not solve the problem today, I prepare another hailed the idea of walking on the roadside waiting for a train arrived.
This seems to be a vehicle to run without a road, I am anxiously waiting at the roadside may be a local tractor saw occasional passing, they only go to a nearby village will not go to Dege. 呀, etc., etc. As time ticked past, I have also become more irritable mood up, I do not want this evening trapped in all call it even names are not out of place, because this little scenery to be seen.
Has been about five o'clock in the afternoon, he saw an old card was driven over, and quickly rushed to the beckoning, stopped the car, the owner is a dress finished the Tibetans. "Can only sit behind the carriages, 25 dollars a person!" Oh, you tie my head I have not the views of the car.
I told the driver and the two Bomi sister said I was looking for another vehicle is gone, he kept Bomi sister also told me that I am sorry delay time, and I forgive her just smoking once burned out of cave-lung. I pack my luggage down and thrown into a truck, greet those other people are also anxious to leave, along with Hula啦to climb up the truck just stopped and feel happy and ground vehicles, and trucks starting in the moment, swept away all my and boring.
This time, like yesterday, I am not lonely in the car, except with me yesterday, "carry large boxes of" small lamas and Tibetan young man, also made a number of Tibetans, just sitting around me will be Chinese-speaking young man with his wife squeeze In my opposite side there is a master, Mandarin speaking well, but also write. Another two local Tibetans to do business, a total of eight individuals in carriages, only I am a Chinese.
I told my boys sing "Qinghai-Tibet Plateau," he screeching voice to sing, but also sang a few numbers I do not understand Tibetan songs, sung after the welcome I have a person "pops" applause. I told her to wife of singing, he said she was his wife will not listen do not speak Mandarin. My name is master of singing, he quickly waved them that they would not. They want me to sing, I said I am glad blind.
Masters in Shiqu a temple, he asked me to have to go after him, and he said he would take me to the Temple of Princess Wen Cheng. He said that he is from Lhasa, he was to blame I do not why, when the Potala Palace in Lhasa, he asked me to post Dege Can Duodai day, he wanted to take me to the turning, he wanted me to have Xinxiang Fo his pen in his arm and his name written on the temple's name, Qiandingwanzhu I'll have to look for him, he said that he twice to go to India twice arrested by public security officers, he said I was a very Chinese be able to endure hardship young man ... ...
I think, I can not stay with him for too long, otherwise, sooner or later will get into the Probation Buddhism.
With the same yesterday, to dust rolling, followed by the same yesterday, to bumpy badly, very quickly, the car, have gradually lost their vitality. Yesterday with the "carry big boxes" like the two was like yesterday, as like a rubber ball to roll in the vehicle, the master also halo Buxing Le, give him motion sickness pills, after eating, he was pale face, spit incessantly. I was the only Tibetan and Mandarin will be boys, but also maintained that the normal face, the legs can also be laughingly overturned after the future battles to get up and bumps.
Along the way, to see rare pull villages, front the road a few days compared to here already claim to be a lot of busy. Car stopped, the driver's home is here, he was off with his family hello, vehicle owners up money, the attitude is extremely snobbish.
Tibet is the most simple folk customs of the place, but the road in Tibet is China's most commercial, Tibet, and is the only car stopped less than a free place.
The advent of night again, I have been accustomed to in the car, watching the night was slowly one way or another. Bright Star, once again brings me great spiritual satisfaction.
Turn the low La Pass on to a post care, with the Sichuan Province across the Jinsha River, a small town across. This belt, mountain momentum excellent car dealers in the dark in the meantime, it seems like the whole mountain to be pressed down so that you suffocate.
Over the Jinsha River, and Tibet, the land more and more away from me, I came to Sichuan, the Sichuan-Tibet line is of paramount importance when taking a cross. 1 to Sichuan in the road into a paved road, big guy again restored the vigor of a man.
Nine o'clock the car to the Derg, the master took me to come to the station, a small crossroads, and told me that tomorrow, here is where I would like to ride, and then say good-bye to me.
Dege is small, an unknown river to wear the county seat and, I had checked into the parking next to a hostel, where close to the river and could hear the rushing waters of the voice, the air exceptionally good. Waiter read my ID cards, said hurriedly went over ten years where I lived, played work, maybe it is for this reason, her attitude to me particularly good.
I am mad laundry, as though in order to wash their own fatigue along the way, before yourself like a personal kind of way out to eat something.
Dege night, I am a quiet person, but the mood is particularly easy. Because I know that the most difficult part of the Sichuan-Tibet line I have gone through, Chengdu road from here to there will not be no man's land, there will be no dust, no cars on the roadside helplessly Lan Zhao, no longer "carry the large box" ... ...
Gone through a desolate, I discovered that the precious human flourishing.
2003-10-18, cloudy, Dege - Ganzi - Luhuo, boarding Luhuo.
In order to the coachman, I am starting early, for fear too late does not. Only twice-daily car Dege to communicate with the outside world, a district government bound Kangding, a river of Tibet over, missed, and can only wait one more day of.
Dege Sutra Printing House, has a prominent position in Tibet, is said to be second only to the Potala Palace, the printing house, yesterday, said that going to take me to master turning the place is it.
7:48 car out, driving prior to encounter with the car yesterday Tibetan young man, he would take this car to one I have not heard a small village halfway to see him out of the car.
Front cho la, Sichuan-Tibet line is we have to turn the highest elevation of the mountains, the main peak over 6000 meters above sea level. However, the driver of the local view, eluded them until now is not the high altitude is not a dangerous road, but law and order. Cho la section often haunt strongman, robbery, murder, nothing happened, so drivers can not travel at night, turn the cho la, generally in the Dege one night, the next morning and then began to Sheung .
Panshan way but, on the special structure of the mountain here is easy to place the Rolling Stones landslides, hillside densely covered in rubble, not rain, that is, Fengyi Chui, are likely to roll downhill to go. Sat in the car, looked under the monastery, and my heart scared straight, with a total at the foot of the mountain passing cars for fear that totally do not remember them herself as well as car dealers.
Peak snow accumulation, in the process of crossing the whole mountain, he saw two roads Road classes.
From the highway, the highest point above sea level, about 40 kilometers down the mountain on to the maniganggo, Sichuan-Tibet line is very well known in a small town, before the new road passing through the sea, off the road a little distance, Bu Liuxin, easy to miss. Maniganggo reads like an arena of tourists gathered through the ages Inn, from here can be slipped over the past Shiqu and Qinghai Yushu, small town down a bit prosperity.
Car was parked in a maniganggo also bound to this event from Kangding, Dege of the bus. Dressed up in a strange long hair dyed red hair, young men, this is my day to take the Sichuan-Tibet line Zheme Xie encountered the first backpackers. Vehicles have a section of the road going forward, stopping at a simple roadside stations, lunch.
At first I thought it was young people are the people of Taiwan, a nod, before we know, he now lives in Malaysia, surnamed Chen, native of Guangzhou, the vernacular and Mandarin are all put it very well, in particular, like to come to the mainland, this is his sixth to Sichuan a.
Noon, 1:40, to the Ganzi county, Sichuan-Tibet line, a relatively prosperous town. During the time when deciduous poplars along the way, the wind falling a little bit of gold, like smallpox Sanhua as car dealers the meantime, the romantic Buxing Le.
17:00 minutes, cars parked in the Luhuo bus station in the evening did not catch a late train again tomorrow after a rest a night to go. Chen and I have older brother out of the car together, they see a familiar figure in the looking around, "Mr Kang!" In here, had to suffer him, and it is Coincidentally, Bu Xingle. Jiang Sheng they had the night last night in Ganzi, but also just to Luhuo long thought of the station tomorrow to see what kind of car can be done next to the Kangding.
Together the three of us came to the Luhuo hotels, Jiang Sheng has been stay there, and I and Chen Big Brother next door to their room. Mrs. Ginger face looks a lot better.
Everyone to go out at night to eat rice, twisted my way in this small town, here are more Tibetans, see a temple on the hillside.
Chen Chin-can be said to hit it off with me, especially in he learned that I do not like to hear pop music, even her say they look like my kind of pop music not being contaminated were rare, because he only likes rock and roll, but it is kind of crazy . Similarly, both love to go one common hobby horizon, but also sympathetic to each other up at once.
Night, it began to rain.
2003-10-19, Luhuo - Kangding - Chengdu, weather, rain, snow, sunny, cloudy, have experienced, middle of the night arrived in Chengdu, 2:00.
Morning we say goodbye with the Jiang Sheng, first to leave the hotel to the station, we take the car more than six minutes to set out.
All the way passing Daofu, 8 the United States, tower of public and other places, the weather is changeable, suddenly the rain suddenly sunny, in the United States to turn the eight towers a mountain pass on the road it began to sleet Shihai.
Tap the public to xinduqiao area, autumn is thick, on-street from time to time to see some film friends.
Car to xinduqiao lunch. Looking around the surging crowd, began to return to human feelings. Xinduqiao was known as the photography first heaven, I really do not understand a little bit, and now comes the most beautiful season of the year xinduqiao, but the scenery here than in Tibet and Sichuan-Tibet line is really not worth mentioning. In the territory of Sichuan, the Sichuan-Tibet line, I have no photo to stay, not any preconceived ideas really do not mind a few days ago the Sichuan-Tibet line from the dream-like landscape freed.
King of Shushan, in the mist-shrouded in hazy and indistinct.
3:30 pm, to the Kangding, the rain under the Xi Li, Chen brother took me to the station ticket bought tickets to Chengdu, after she has told me goodbye. If he wants to rest here two days later, and then one person alone to the south slope of Gongga Mountain, and wish him luck!
Kangding, Luding sections in the road, only one-way traffic, a half a day before release back the time I arrived in Kangding better, because after 17 o'clock went to Chengdu, the direction of the vehicle can be allowed to go.
Densely packed road vehicles. Heavy traffic in front of all of a sudden I suited just taken over the past few days, like a dream, from the front of the busy world is too far away.
Vehicle and two Long Cairn Tunnel, over Luding, over Yaan, on the high-speed, two o'clock in the middle of the night, stopping at a new South Gate Station.
A few hours later, I went to Jiuzhaigou bus in Chengdu on. Sichuan-Tibet line for a week trip and since then has become a memory.
Each person has his life taken in the past Sichuan-Tibet line, but also by his soul beyond the Sichuan-Tibet line. Sichuan-Tibet line, in the eyes of those who did not experience it, seems to have become synonymous with hardship and suffering, but the true intentions of waiting for you come later, I think, probably no one would come to regret it once the period of road, a smooth Ping to walk down, you're happy.
Author: AHAO7
