2003-10-15, sunny, to help reach - Qamdo, places Qamdo.
Jiang Sheng Qi Liaochuang very early, hailed in the street, but had never stopped to. At seven o'clock, I was from the sleeping bag and climbed up, anxious to walk across the road to the WC, who have not come across, see a white farmer drove over, quickly stopped, a question, just go to Qamdo , the driver is willing to pull us in the past, 50 yuan / person, immediately go back and ask them to take luggage out of Jiang Sheng. As the saying goes, starting from the date of the early than clever.
Well-known to help the world's highest altitude reached from the airport also helps to reach the edge of State Road 214 Qamdo, long runway without an object, but also empty.
Along the way twice for repair and wait. The car is probably earlier than the retirement age, the body parts are not so it, any how the driver stepped on the accelerator, it is still unhurried Duo with Fang Bu, obstinately in a very cool how the road is also cool it up. What is most unfortunate is that the car in the next wave La Pass finished soon launched a temper, no more. The driver said to be running out of oil, just sliding down the mountain all the way, getting the oil pumping up Xiangdi.
Busy busy driver under the vehicle, we have not help. Jiang Sheng couple more romantic to go in front of the village gone, leaving me in this car can save over looked.
Q. When will the driver be able to fix cars, he says no, Maybe I can anxious, and just want to be able to quickly rushed to the Qamdo. Seeing more than an hour later, still no car will be repaired any signs, the driver is also suggested that I stay would be stopped the other vehicle crossing would be better. Just saw an empty cab over, stopped, went to the farmer to bring the three of us on board a large backpack pouch plus N a packet to all the win-loaded into a taxi. Just ready to go in front of the car to find his wife Jiang Sheng, only heard truck drivers behind the farmer exclaimed, "repaired repaired, you can go!" Ran one, this classic cars really launched yet up. Had no choice but to go on a taxi to take all the luggage all over, fitted to the farmers on board, was also a downtown cab drivers pass. So frustrating about it, never tired and out of a mountain sickness is considered a luck.
1:00 or so, finally is time to Qamdo terminal, originally only three hours but never the way we have come to 13:00 am 7:00. In approaching Qamdo, the driver to stop so that we see on a roadside cliff Mahamudra, saying that before the opening of roads, we found that the natural formation of the result that it suddenly becomes a fetish, attracted people to burn incense constantly.
To the bus stop one asked, to Chengdu, the car is only 16:00 minutes a day trip, but tickets were sold out within two days, and seemed to be able to leave the Qamdo the free-rider. Jiang Sheng send cover his wife went to post office postmark, I went to car.
Qamdo, in addition to Nazuo Tibetan monasteries and the monks can be seen occasionally on the street outside, they have basically no trace of the Tibetan areas. 4 surging Sichuanese street from a matter of fact the Qamdo into a zone of Sichuan. Can not walk the streets a few, dirty is a great feature, but the flow is still a lot of claim to be a Tibetan capital of the region's prosperity.
In the residence, a cold water bath washed. Bored one night, strolling in the streets, see there is a cafe, went to sit for half an hour before we know, the Shenzhou V in heaven! The Jishi Tian ago, I was at the Jiuquan Shi Hai because it can not enter the Jiuquan Satellite Launch Center in the upset.
2003-10-16, sunny, Qamdo - Jiang Da, places Edatsu.
Yesterday, the original contact is not a good car because the driver is not trustworthy and let us go into, we can only think about how to. Jiang Sheng want to find chartered cars go, but I have been standing on the edge of the Sichuan-Tibet highway and saw the car had stopped, but was disappointed time and time again to visit me.
I do not remember how much Huishou move hailed, every move a Huishou return is once more disappointed, hand raised, it is hoped, draw back to become the hands down. I do not even want to be able to intercept any report to the car, even if there are cars, not necessarily be able to sit down at the same time three persons.
Want to always appear in the occasion of despair, but also over the longer of the two trucks, drivers and car owners are Tibetan, car is up to the river, but the car has been sitting no less than anyone.
"We have a lesbian here, Can you squeeze a space, we have two men on the rear compartment behind the car."
In receiving a positive reply, I hastened to CALL Jiang Sheng came back with the ginger too should first of our luggage onto the cart. Finally was able to leave Qamdo, and inner sigh of relief.
At half-past nine, cars opened. Less than 10 minutes away, in front of excavator Zhanzhao road, in culverts dug into both sides of the car gave blocked. After waiting an hour, which gave the release, release and then walk for a while, we stopped, the owner is waiting for the other one did not catch up the car, because they are a total of three cars. Car sandwiched Red Dust has come, we officially hit the road!
We must walk is a Youzhai You bumpy dirt road, which is the city of Lhasa came from the Sichuan-Tibet line, in addition to tangmai outside the most disadvantaged sections of, but along the way it is also not seen any in the near future will be Change good sign. I remember a period of the road, there is a maintenance truck parked at the side of the road, our car折腾了半天, but also make life difficult for the driver had no option but to force the car close to the other side squeeze past, the results of two cars in the post-box tailgate rub together, scraping the "Bar Bar Bar" straight ring. We are on a railway carriage, as well as in the following repair shop, there have been the scene of stunned shock! I am also worried that our car will the car near the valley to the mountain pushed down. Fortunately, the last is after narrowly passed the wrong car. Each time, after going through the wrong car, all drivers in the test level, patience and luck, while I sat in the car, already used to this formation. Since I got it to the car, put everything, including life, boarding paid the driver and luck.
This is my first back to "carry a large box" (referring to the rear seat van) experience. Except for me and Jiang Sheng carriages, as well as a young Tibetan lama and the boy, they are together, an Aunt and a Tibetan one in Chinese Han people can be heard wearing uncle. Damara in turn pass on the way, mother and uncle have get off.
Damara pass to leave Qamdo to Sichuan to be checked on the first pass, a car left the city began to turn Qamdo it. It seems to be a Tao will never climb endless slope, never Shui endless bend, which is all the way from Lhasa line, the longest traversed a mountain pass. Time after time, always thought the highest point reached the highway, but a Shui up and saw highways still higher and more distant to the re-meandering.
The scenery here, follow the road up to Lhasa to help is entirely different world altogether. This is another indescribable empty and desolate, a non-life-color Lengji has been suppressed and that you are not already beyond the control of their own nerves.
Similarly, the restricted area of life, nature's skilled portrays them as a grand gesture for different dress picture. From here, probably can go heaven. The face of a look around the endless desolation, I quietly issued a stay, he was followed around the mood slowly change the landscape hoary.
Km stretch of the dust on the plateau a strong ultraviolet radiation, the unusually high temperatures and dry, continuous bumps and shaking the car unusual unpleasant smell, "five-pronged", has been testing the patience of our most dangerous degree.
Jiang Sheng first unable to cope and kept his hand in the hold abdomen. Asked him how he had, saying it was going to be head. Quickly identify the drugs to give him eating, but in the end he Tingbu Zhu, "calls mile crash," to vomit up. I quickly rushed into the front side of the wave side of the shouting and told the driver to stop. After stopping, with the owners to discuss, let him out of a position behind the front seat to give Jiang Sheng.
I am a man again climbed carriages, to continue the suffering of my journey, but also a happy journey.
Lamas and Tibetan side of the small boy, then a simple multi-they probably see the swaying of the car in such a body to maintain balance is an extremely difficult task, it simply fell to the ground hooded sleep, like two rubber ball, like in the wagon rolling over of the. I still insist on sitting in his large backpack with top of hand on railing and strive to maintain that the image does not exist already, but often a hula, severe turbulence, I was again and again Britain's quadruped overturned, After laughter, but also climbed up. On what indomitable do? I think I have experienced before.
I was in Tibet, see the most beautiful blue sky and white clouds in the Qamdo the way to the river reach. That immense desolation ah, you can move me? Where can you take me go?
Along the way, from time to time to see eagles circling in the sky, they are on this piece of the true masters of the earth.
Three or four o'clock in the afternoon, cars, to the well-dam, the driver to stop at the roadside restaurant for dinner. Get off, if you ask a bit like ginger wife, how the body, and she said, no worries, good one brave woman, I believe this a difficult journey, it will become their lives can not forget the sweet memories.
I do not want to eat and went into the store to the owner under the points of washing the face. Another is Sichuanese. I replaced three backwater only a little change so that wash water clean and more, the nose is also a large scale landslides blocked.
Here is a county boss said, but the map seems to be the subject of a town, he smiled and said that his shop is the county government guest houses. Here, no running water there is no cell phone signal poles, not a decent house, and even a length of cement road I had never seen, have you seen this county Mody?
Overhead, flocks of crows in the flying.
Now come the morning, we ran about 100 kilometers, which is a distance so I can not accept, which means half of our no go, from the dam due to the river over there are more than 100 kilometers, but also turn the two pass, but the road is better than before taking more, no less dangerous.
Where they will have large tracts of alpine grassland, the grass had already withered and yellow. From time to time to see the prairie dogs Tantoutannao heads out from the grass, the uncanny looked at the passing trucks, was very funny, but also see them in a fight. The scenery, from Xining to go to the 226 national highway, also seen in Zhangye.
Refueling stop on his way to the oil reserve tank released, added to the main tank, take the Sichuan-Tibet line of cars will reprovision a large fuel tank, this way do not have gas stations. I get off activities to the bones and tendons, see them Yishibanke are endless, simply go to the final on the grass, basking in legs move heaven and earth to see the blue sky and white clouds, looking goshawk in robust posture in the kingdom belongs only to its freedom and happy with, and then imagined himself into a prairie dogs will eat grass, Fall in love here, not to leave ... ... trumpet shattered my dream of an idiot, we hit the road.
Down dark, cold wind came, and lonely climb came, and the daytime can feel the vitality and beauty are also dispersed, and the darkness increases loneliness became my all at the moment. Days to continue the black, the stars exposed face of the moon climb up, you can not imagine in the city of Star has emerged. Our carriages, like the Dark Knight in the hands of a cradle, in high and low I do not know the depth of the darkness, swaying.
A braking suddenly awakened by my imagination. In turning the original, the opposite is also a car came out, but the driver failed to hear the other side of the cars did not see lights (which may be bent a hurry bar), so just out of the corners with each other the next scare each other. Under the probe origin read, but fortunately, there is less between the front with the front of more than 20 centimeters distance from the bar, they represent two cars are all very sensible, in this lonely lovelorn Sichuan-Tibet line did not, and if Acacia's powerful, one wanted to see the same swoop kissed up a pass, can be hard to us. Reversing the wrong car, time-consuming N minutes, to calm down just frightened feelings, but also time-consuming N minutes.
21:30, vehicles parked in the river up to the station. 200 km of roads, car did not malfunction in line for 12 hours on the road will hold up for an hour refueling delayed about an hour to eat, must register, 20 km / hour speed, how do I feel that this car has been running fast then? Brain appears to have been a bit bad to make a.
Asked the station staff, there is a bus every morning 8:00 to Qamdo, 14:00 there is a shuttle bus to Kangding.
Grain Bureau hostel we stay there, only three humans, people in the honeymoon, I actually slept in the same room with the newly married couples, such a thing, probably only in the Sichuan-Tibet line when walking may occur.
Jiang sick wife, and last until now, really not easy. I went to look for to eat with the Jiang Sheng, his first wife to help her endure a bowl of ginger to send the past, the meticulous care, in this journey, but also support them to proceed along the spiritual power bar.
Author: AHAO7
