In another piece sky --- Tibet Ali Travel Notes
Tibet, not just a dream
Tibet, this piece of ice and snow surrounded by mountains and highlands, is how many people travel, the ultimate dream? There are long days of broad imagination, the mystery religions and strange people, all make the dream a layer of elegant cast a veil, when you try to reveal when they find that they know nothing about it.
Yes, Tibet, on the grass in my university and friends Xinxin talking about you; is known to have communication with, the promises agreed by you; can When I approached you, it was found in Tibet in my mind is just an abstract The geographical concept, and some inconsistent Peugeot scene, in the face you, I not entirely at a loss.
To this, I planted a lot of time to contribute to the network and books, surging almost did not text me to choke, and when I do not know what, when, a special writer to write the history of Tibet passage inspired me, he said : History In addition to time but there is another dimension, and that is geography. There is no geography, all of history will certainly be no physical load of the soul, all the dust there will be no past performances for the stage. So I turned again, the map looked at this piece of the big stage known as the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
In its northern boundary, there are towering Kunlun Mountains, the home of Altun and Qilian Xuelian vein, south of the beams in the world, 16 more than 8000 peaks and 50 peaks over 7,000 meters above the composition of the Himalayan snow-rolling system, southeast to the transverse mountain range, which Gandise Trans Mountain. Almost can Gangdise mountains as the boundary, dividing out the North Tibet Plateau and the South Tibet Valley, in south-east direction, Nyainqentanglha moisture barrier and the Brahmaputra, another of the unique character of the Sichuan-Tibet mountain gorge area.
For a time, I hand on Map Fu Xiang Lian Pian, the heart seemed to be flying out of plain, towering into the sky, overlooking this piece of emotional high ground.
Ali, no longer seem remote
The most primitive religion of Tibet, Bon teachings can be seen the peak Gangrenboqi Gangdese Mountains is the center of the world, with Mary beside Yong dependent measures are the source of life. As far away as Shiva's homeland, India, where Christians also put here, as their belief in God to dominate the world place. Ali, where a clockwise vortex formed and Japan in order to continuously rotate the following year.
The source is always desirable, not to mention Ali in Tibet also encompasses almost two-thirds of the land and two-thirds of the topography.
To go Ali! Although the purpose of this expedition, all directions to contact members of a revolving door for the two dozen satisfactory end. Although, Ali is called the roof of the roof, full ability to be able way along the road is still uncertain. Although, I heard that Ali area of material shortages, high prices (this point in the Ali constantly being verified), pinch refers to calculate the cost of this, the wound or not to change his mind.
Ali, on the subjective and objective conditions of psychological perfection, it appeared increasingly next to the past, and is no longer distant.
In Tibet, have to learn to adaptable
Really envy those who can have sufficient time in Tibet, the floating, I prepared this trip, from pre-planned in terms more like a tight military operations, mileage, elevation, accommodation sites and so on are all meticulously recorded in my Small books and.
Of course, some things can not be predicted, such as altitude sickness. Siguniang Mountain in Sichuan, in addition to sunburn nose, an elevation of 4700 has left me almost no other bad impression. Why Lanzhou to Golmud in the car I began tossing, hell, it by no means due to excitement. Deng had Bansu fans, no wanted to get off ago, hit a good thing, with the cars and we agree on common package of four vehicles into Lhasa them are businessmen, students are staying in Lhasa for many years, since they I intend to sit unanimously rejected the idea of sleeper cars, then I herd on the bar with the times. Small bread onto the Qinghai-Tibet line, sleeping car also nest in the sun-drenched parking lot selfless, my heart is banking on an early climb Tanggula, Lhasa that was not at hand. Surprisingly, went to a vehicle depot, after being ordered to return to some detailed investigation, because we had on board a Korean, a foreigner must be with the tour groups to Tibet, then we must first carry out some self-help travel application procedures, wow race, the first time found that the benefits of people, but he was extremely depressed. This round toss of the three part-time, small bread again Pidianpidian onto the right path. Qinghai-Tibet line is called the safest route to Tibet than the Sichuan-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet and the Xinjiang-Tibet, it may be so, but if think it is a broad road, which may greatly misunderstood. Sichuan girls are also described as lying on the sleeper can not sleep, it is necessary that they do not hand clutching window bar to fall to the experience-to-know words are not false. 5 beam passing quietly, and daylight gives the well-being are also drifting away, his head sharp pain, the body began to go to hell, and the eye was lost in the darkness, the way to heaven.
20 hours and can not move could not eat, could not sleep, sat in the sub-registration room, front of a green vegetable color. This is the first arrived in Lhasa, the feeling, until before departure, a pedestrian and others also did not dare to give any light moving in vain, in addition to what frightful edema, we also considered personally verified all the unusual form of altitude sickness again. Eve of his departure, gigs, before the excitement of suppressing the body's discomfort, our companions in Guangzhou, Americo directed at downstairs shouted: boss, the tea!
Courageous Americo probably never thought she would and Ali two days later, but had the wrong body, Namtso will remember her tears. If not for the partner can not insist that their trip had also rafts of Mt chapter. Americo take them far away from Guangzhou, checked over canned stewed eggs, chicken wings and so gave us all a lot of feeding, photo farewell. The two vehicles and the drive became a one-way ride.
Altitude sickness since it is 10 there are 9 Pao Bule, does not seem to experience one then you have not been to Tibet, then the following various, but also regarded as Tibet's unique "label" of the.
Worst way. In addition to the South line of the notorious mayum pull section of the Great Northern line was also much greater than that of the roads in, we are always looking at the rainy season, heavy-duty trucks plowed through the mud trenches, gravel all over the washboard road, one side are the same as soy duplicating in the carriage with one hand and the driver with the lament: A multi-good way. May so than not in the endless expanses of grassland like freehand drawing like a car east vertical cross-west India, we had to go on the road met a Turkish fast fall to pieces, Changan little bread, Britain's bumper tie down the roof on a car person look of utter exhaustion and frustration, a question is lost, and Tashi (our driver) refers to the road for them, see them again and again Pao Yuan Hui Touchong we say: it is estimated today that they found, an excuse pen stay there even if the good. We looked at each other, think of prior Wo Wo see that the soil and windy night raids, oil Health sympathy for. Tibet road is not often pondering, even if the same is true for older drivers, trucks, the Rolling Stones and other damage to the road often, and if the planned 23 hours swinging away for a long time has not arrived yet, do not hurry, it is better before a nap.
Shining of the sun and ash burst forth bed. Ali is the way toward the westbound 7:00 every day after I must humbly bow their heads nod more than two part-time, before his eyes watched the sunset go home amused; to leave Ali go straight to the East, Toyota car from the sauna room upgrade to the oven , straight anxious to put the money Tashi 800 pure wool mats thrown out the window, and occasionally get off to sing a song, but also cold-called to fight a chill. Can be taken such as the sun warm, light and bright and eyeful of the scene, you can see is mud lying on the ground a few Banchuang of that, most places without electricity, water is also relatively difficult. Provided for the travelers to say that Tibet is such a residence can be described as unfair, but in what you have to expect that Ali is absolutely delusional. However, we can basically the same as the fall of Tibet to the dog, but gradually some people can not stand, he said that this has a gray-scarred bed, he could not sleep, we watched him move into the water carrying a large bag less electricity standard, the only speculate whether a different bed, different dreams come breeds.
Expensive price. If you see a truck transporting supplies hardships to journey on the road can not be called the way, you can understand why the materials are so Degui Ali, if you look at the immediate food and accommodation, will not help in his heart whispered words: fucking thief expensive. In Zada, a chicken would cost some 100, in the Hall, more a record of 120. 30-40 beds ranging from the morning bowl of rice porridge sold five of money. The most impressive is that in dual-Lake Township, a night of peace, the landlord points to 1 m 2 wide beds, saying that sleep on the two individuals, this is why he could earn more than a dozen square meters of room 300 of money, we have unparalleled The economic-minded admiration for the rich landlord, give it 100 for four overnight rest at individuals.
I hope you do not understand my description of the negative into Tibet, I just want all those who aspire to Tibet to learn more about it, and the mentality of way along the road Huaizhao adaptable.
The distant horizon, North Tibet Plateau
Namtso like the angel eyes. If there are no mountains around, you would think the sky reflected in the eyes of the angels, it was the eyes is so impeccable, so it was reflected on a clear blue sky and white clouds. Press the top of the hill I live in the heart of Duval, convinced that it is because a surprising and that the United States enough to make your dreams turn several times and loves soul Soul; that it is difficult to portray the United States, the lens also recorded no less than her, only make for everyone to see I use the vague language muttered something Xu Tao. Some people say that the summer Namtso more beautiful, but I disagree, the land of Tibet, Bright jewel-like lakes bow are both charming, and in the snow and ice in the shining of the will is only Namtso. Canopy, such as covers, such as the water line goes west to follow the afterglow of sunset, flocks of Bar-headed Goose issued by the calls of high-spirited across from the ice, away from the earth's dust and noise, there are clouds on the land, another, such as Nature and Man down to earth, the Tibetan called days of "Iriki," Tianhu name appropriately.
Days unless a lake, and our car will be bouncing around on the road, there was a old man said: this world there is no way this man became a way to go is much more. Used here is appropriate, but a step to not human footprints, but by a wide range of pressure out of the car. We are not strong legs that frame in the four-drive fire wheel on the fly, not only failed to appreciate the feeling of maneuvering in the suffering of tired bumps down to earth after the hand, there can not be a real headache. Damn my misty eyes (after being violently shaken some of my trance-like state of mind) looked out at the scenery, previously heard of people walking in the snow when trying to find visual impact point, otherwise nothing will make Walker harm on the snow snow blindness , and in this piece of barren, the landscape similar to static in front of my eyes have lost the ability to distinguish space. Growth in the South are probably even more can not really understand the meaning of open, if not a line of Gansu, northwest China, or in my perception of a faceless land. Could be here, what kind of desolation, which is different from the Gobi aspect of Gansu, it allows you to still feel surrounded by companions empty loneliness, a little like a Toyota in an expansive sand, snap of the fingers Inter will be buried inside in the stretch of the Sand Sea. Around 7:00 in the evening we went to a place called the 382 bridge, Tashi is clearly not satisfied with the end result of this, but also took us 90 kilometers away to the peaceful village away pairs of Lakes. Can not be a small Toyota, Mercedes-Benz finally up before sunset to see hope, but hope also sideways in front of a river, the river do not know where to emerge from so many people (along the way we have not seen a few living things), as well as 2 large truck tilted on the river, only a Cherokee is still busy round-trip, as if is to make these two great guys to drag ashore. Tashi a step throttle, rushed to go, unfortunately, Albania, Mashiqianti. Tashi yell of "over, finished," it is impossible for everyone immense fear Do you really want to spend the night in the car it? Xiao Zhang was later commented on our car, "Toyota really carry 62 made" really is true, this night, Toyota is the leng climbed the bank by two front wheels. At night, difficulty in breathing suddenly opened my eyes, cold moonlight sprinkled through the pane firmly side by side in the bed, the oven did not burn the sheep Shidan emitted bursts of choking people's cigarette smoke, and think Fang Cai see "dig gold" of the Muslims, Quhei face expressionless, her eyes stared straight Leng Leng us very loudly munching mouth like a stone like a hard dry food, thinking smart the landlord told us his finger, Ban Zhao's "loss", as well as to eat before midnight, a very full throttle in the face of the Na Wan film. All the strange floating in my brain, where lack of oxygen, makes up a strange picture, like the highlands of Yingying the wind blowing, not mixed with a little tenderness, so that you can not avoid, but also impossible to forget.
The next day, still the same blue sky, the wind is still the same strong, but rigid knowing about bald bald mountain grassland of peace began to have changed. Our field of vision and sometimes went up a big bundle of Tamarix red, sometimes broke into the vast expanse of whiteness of one, it is mistaken by us as snow and ice saline-alkali land, more exciting to finally see the snow-capped mountains of the figure, but the northern Tibet's Snow is also a very lonely exception. Let us hope that most or those who survive the harsh environment, the animals are gone, but Nima, only to see a few heads wild ass alone, in a few hundred meters away from the highway where the sight makes me see who heard of the "wild ass chase car" story had a doubt. Is an alternating day and night time, but fortunately without the fear and panic yesterday, also appears to increasingly have a beautiful sunset, the golden outline of the hills the color, the breeze blowing over the shore, Didi De Xi Cao, the final touch of brilliance like Light through the clouds hindered the little sprinkle dongco Star Lake. Highlighted in the wilderness seems to be more Kiwi nature and magnificent face it, when I always can not be myself, want to cry but more Jia Momo silent poetry. Of the silhouette in the evening glow, I saw a row of neat fuzzy housing and suffused with light solar panels, it seems that there are people waving our red, Toyota straight through this prairie countryside - hole measures, vertical Gerze away. Around midnight, before reaching our destination, the gall to run into another teams to inquire about our trip, they Startled, said: Do you fly A. We are noncommittal have smiled, smoothly rubbed his aching limbs. Expand beds later, only to find the previous appeal to our surprise, the light can not be extinguished, though I could not stand up very frustrations 60W light bulb to fall asleep, Qi Ji corrupt to find attendants, sticking his hands the little girl said she could not make light bulbs, could not do anything. Is is also a sleepless night, I could not help but smile.
Last night, with great difficulty turned out the light, spacious beds so that everyone would raise enough mental. Today's plan is taken by the Salt Lake Jindao straight day after the earth. Did not expect three days in Lhasa ran to Ali from the westernmost counties, but also remembered the words of fellow last night, can not help but smile. Along the way, we often saw trucks loaded with borax direction from Salt Lake opened, the radius of Tashi said that this piece is not too much resources have been mining in 30 years, it shows a rich reserve. In Tibet, you will see that the two phenomena, first, the shortage of supplies of life, we must rely on long distance transport; the other hand, the rich geological resources, but can not be mined because of inconvenient transportation. This reminds me of the Middle East, think of money and cannon fodder, perhaps simply because of several Salt Lake, several Meishan, several wells can be said that the resources of Tibet's rich, if rich means disaster, it is better Retention this piece of pure land. Salt Lake is also a small area of a small village, or because originally the lake by lake to eat, but also, or because are going to Shiquanhe or daily soil must pass through and therefore I set foot in more tourists, Salt Lake is not a trace of Yi Gu is the coordination of the modern. Mainland China while waiting for lunch and a few soldiers while chatting up, young man casually reveal their income to our surprise is not small, but then he has a little frustrating to talk in here boring life, and lack of flowering love. We laugh for a while again turned their attention to curiously not far from our two children, think of the car with stationery and candy, it took some points to them, little more timid, the larger the laughing aloud, we have license to hold the camera whispering sound whispering sound Kacha photographed a pass, one side of their mother smiling at us, while the name of Mao Live.
Japanese soil may be really far away, as well as off the beaten track, where the absence of wild animals have been exposed by their side, I heard the cries, saw two antelope bolted across the front, of which one is not careful planted in a road ditch , but immediately jumped up and struggled to continue to run, looked extremely frightened, hard to bear. Tashi directed at those two little guys in the back of a sigh: Do not be afraid, not to kill you. Tashi then with a bit sorry for the tone of voice that three years ago to take this line can still see wild ass innocently chasing cars run, are now afraid to fight, and heard the sound of cars on the run from far off . Then he talked about last year, a mayor on patrol have been killed by poachers things. Remarks explained that bothers me only two days of doubt, for the loss of freedom and their homes, and even lives of animals, I deeply regret and sympathy; while those for the protection of these creatures and laid down their lives, I also only silently express my respect. Those with dense bones of the dead fill the expansion of their own desires of the people, you will for these jumped up, running and moving forward to do the life of those who them as adventures, and the rustic charm of the buyers, to the brutal killing of an animal's skeleton the display out, but preached the same with those killer bar cruel and selfish.
On soil-building really beyond our expectations, in addition to less densely things, hundreds of kilometers away with the capital - can be described as similar to how many Shiquanhe. We are in the intermittent tap set teeth next took a bath, comfortable in the hotel restaurant Chile Dun Sichuan. The only nearby table are uniformly olive green, eating a Mazui also got into the dance hall next door, it seems Salt Lake met the soldiers are right, where life is boring, so ... ....
The morning to the toilet, you see the familiar Bar-headed Goose flying disk hang, I know from this class of public measures must be far away.
Concept of yesterday is far from a look at the top of the hill, this lake is not that high altitude lakes, and fancy blue or green, at that time thought it was light enough reason, do not want to cars near shore, is still inconspicuous pale color, narrow lake, and some poles too unpleasant. Smack wiped dinner of fish-flavored, we have go along with measures to ban the public and send a "fish pond" in the title. Did not give up on this across two lakes throughout There seems to expect that Toyota in the lake shore Niuzhuo S-shaped, a cliff became all have a "turn for the better" surprise. The lake suddenly wide, unsightly utility poles are moved to the hills, clear, transparent water, distant snow-capped mountains go into the snow and ice, very little waves rippling from the pale blue sky come waterbirds like the wave of the bubble, suddenly flap and the onwards, an astonishing glimpse. Under the hill a few houses, signs hanging from the hotel; shore mooring the boat empty, no fisherman; surrounded by a yellow-dog in the Qunniao, only slightly tipping a heavy head, then go sound asleep a. Before leaving, this "fish ponds" has become in people's minds the real "Shangri-la."
Snow's hometown, South Tibet Valley
Vehicles to leave the Shiquanhe, a hundred kilometers of asphalt road, used to shake the car, suddenly calm hand, a little tedious. But good show in front of you, Tashi Meng was right on a steering wheel, we have on the rocky beach. Shitan into a valley between the mountains and little hills, snow homeopathy down to form a solidification of melting glaciers, sparkling in the midday sun where awe-inspiring white, into a film Hongliu Mi Zaza side by side, black yak the huge body buried in the woods in the sun. We started climbing, mountain narrow, over the rubble, tilted 30 degrees outward; corner lot, is 360 degrees, and turns on both sides of the roof buried in the snow, the suddenly suddenly see the light; steep slopes sometimes appear 2 incredible rut, rut to terminate a car-wide driveway edges, and then in the past is the cliff. For the poor a thousand miles, we must first climb, climbing, after overlooking Osaka is not the earth, but the mountains, those mountains over 4000 meters a grass grows, and yet more snow-free hanging, only the red clay as the meridian of the same covered with mountains skin. Tashi Ling Nian glitter, the right path to 70-degree slope under the diving, attracted to our great surprise, brakes, Tashi swept our fingers in front of a music, say: Look! To see, and Tashi promised us in the northern Tibet, "many, many snow-capped mountains," car at the wind flags in the wind in the hair Ma Biao, we, along with Tashi hat, and then Old Cat chanting Side grunt a few lines, "Hasso Luo, La Suoluo ", followed by running all the way, but only so two down.
Adventures in the mountains for three hours, Toyota Chi into the plains of excitement once the flat islet was boundless land of ironing instill obedience to. Although we can not open the windows can be Fashao seem to be able to feel the breeze blowing Cao Jian, the immediate golden marsh vertical extension of the distant snow-capped mountains and left the foot of Snow Mountain brown-red hills static Fu Zhao, a black root The throngs of poles stand quietly, like a row of sentinels keep watching their wheat fields.
Go to the mountain side of the sun, we were enveloped in the shadow of mountains, the wheat is gone, there is only one front of its winding valley, like most of the "world hero" in the Western Regions of the Plank Road toward Datang, no smell Camel sound, and no woman in white fluttering, but if they had just arrived or left only a few centuries, for thousands of years, loess white sand, remain as before. Where forest soil? Here, the mountains tall, but not dangerous, barren but unusual form stacked out, Is this the forest land? Asked Tashi, Tashi had yet to utter. Winds ahead of a few hours, suddenly saw a brilliant golden yellow eyes, snuggles, and golden yellow are at the top of the head, gray rendering of the soil in the light under the Road Trans-highlight the debut of the ravine, there is no hard rock, mountain looks more like a single piece of historic buildings in ruins, you can identify the tall towers, the entire palace and residential. "We are all in this way to go in the earth forests," Tashi really surprises people, why do we turn a blind eye, much deliberation, simply because living in this forest. Then rushed to press Tashi, forward, forward, and we wanted to make a sunset forest soil. Along the way, see the sun flickering, coming out is that it is a spectacle, undecided where parking is to wait, or continued on our way, kicking up clouds of heart straight in front of images itch, afraid of missing the better. A dilemma, seeing the sunset should Xi Chen. Finally climb a big slope, Ji Ben height, ah ~ ~ ~, a time of extreme remorse, the horizon line is not bright red has completed favorite forest soil. Tashi to see me upset, pointing to the distance and says loudly: saw the red light, do missions, it is Guge. I looked down his fingers, the direction is hard to tell where a crimson sunset, or anything else, sighed, and then bite the shouting: Tomorrow Be sure to arrive before sunrise Gug!
Referred to the ancient frame, this time we have stood its blood on the front is Natiao breeds of Katao civilization Sutlej river have been inconspicuous small reservoirs upstream that had stopped at this point not found When you think that the river has dried up, but, at present it worthy of a broad match and the Yangtze River not help you out from the heart praise. On the other side at this time seems Zanda just a few white dots, there is no bridge to pass, we have to be struggling in the upper reaches around to really called "elusive." Zanda Sure enough, such as Tashi says, is climate Ali one of the few places where, at least for trees to grow, here just to take poplar buds, patches of green arouses joy. If it is not expensive prices, think about a two-day stay here, is pretty good. We asked the proprietress why they sell so expensive chicken, while she was cooking while A: is shipped in Xinjiang, and raise their own chickens had to die of altitude sickness A, and we almost betrayed a shocking ignorance. The boss was correct, yes Recently bird flu, all killed. However, he added, even if not, do not come cheap. China clamored to come to a fried egg, a plate of scrambled eggs, eight to 20 the money, there are not mistaken, is that we cast aside a while, but eventually could not bear to see his look of disappointment, or to meet the demands of his little .
Guest House at night to find Armed Forces, people wishing to live unsuccessful, said he came to a working group, as early as listen to the boss Let's talk about the county's 20 soldiers and a Khampas fighting, out of human life, and implies that the whole is less a multi-deception disdain. Could not help but remember the salt lake and Japanese territories, seen heard.
South gray morning here or night, hanging at the Qionglu l'etoile, the car sound disturbed the village dogs barking attracted a while. Plantago two beams of halo illuminated the narrow road that we in the earth mountain walk through the heavy forest, the moonlight shines on forest soil on the Fan Chu light cyan, so that the valley side of the road seems more deep. Front of us Kingdom steadily stopped the car, and finally to see the last night a red light in the ancient frame, look up this hillside city, the King's Summer Palace still hung a cold early spring The moon, red in the Ye Feng Jing Zhuang Dianshang of the flicker, a silence in what it means, is sleep or annihilation, if you do not know about that period of soul-stirring history, you will chip blue-violet to determine the loss of Under the Canopy. Suddenly the hill in the Kingdom came in front of a black dog, its squat, look up to the East, the image of a solemn. It looks like I was amused, and went under the hill looking at it, the black dog to bow their heads cast a glance my one, not ignored. So it will be joined the ranks of the watch and wait, we unable to bear the curious, Dong Paoxi channeling, and that it always stays on the black dog.
Light and heat of the sun spray Sanzhao quickly climbed the valley, sweeping the earth, like countless early morning, and declared the end of the night. Silent history is awakened, presented before our eyes is a great ruins, the ruins of imperial palaces and temples, but eye-catching label, which has been the hand of time erased a whitewash but a broken tile Can Yuan Zhang Xian with the past glory and Today's lonely. We follow the porter stepped into the door that the door of mottled red paint, fantasy, the last prince Jidenima gun, beat the door in his ring, could anyone imagine that it is the fate of the beginning of a turning point? Porter turn to us to open Tara Hall, Red Hall, White Hall's Dianmen, those doors or red paint, copper-, or sixth carved pearls of Shingon and lintels are painted with colored Choi and auspicious designs, beautifully crafted but also obviously have to reveal the traces of the years, and only the door ring hada is a brand new. In the hall, I saw in the history books have seen the frescoes, as expressive and delicate long not be forgotten, do not want to meet here and statues are now only a broken hand maimed, those are the Cultural Revolution's "masterpiece", accustomed to seeing of those solemn solemn Nitai, I actually can not imagine that a moment or ferocious, or a beautiful statue, can not help but regret. Tread the steps, we have no sound through the streets, in the practitioner open the cave stop; broke into half of the mud had collapsed, from the windows of irregular high-rise towers hole size up; pointing, gestures drawn over , uses the staff and New Zealand, land of Nazuo Return of the King of the castle to meet par. To climb up a spiral stone staircase, and we stood a real part of the King's private territory, and that two former team for a small room can not see the noble and rich, and when I stood on this piece of territory in height, to Under overlooking them, they suddenly felt touched to the soul of the ancient grid. In this palace of the following, pro-rich clusters with temples and people's houses, the homes of civilians and monks in the mountains as the mink Odare, the surrounding hills were still in cultivation had traces of mountain Yimapingchuan is a rare fertile , wide Sutlej Pentium away, and huge forest soil Gugewangguo together make up the most natural defensive barrier. Transshipment Jidenima gun, when he Yong Zhao princess standing here, sweeping away the surviving fear, ready to make the heart more of a exhibition held ambition of the newspaper a few years later, he put out, by extension, territory assigned to the three sons, and this is well-known in the history of Tibet, accounting for three-gun measurements. The seven hundred years later, is also here Guge king Tashi Chi Cha Bada and his repetition of a first Zulangdama the same error, tried to challenge religious and political authority, the final itself onto a road of no return, When he was playing into the hands of the Ladakh eyes looked like the ancient king's army surrounded packed grid, the whole kingdom was strangled as a behemoth, feeling only the pain of slow suffocation.
Guge said hundreds of thousands of people disappear is a mystery in terms of history, but merely a regrettable gap, we can never imagine the brutality of the war at that time, when Tashi mummified me one way or another hole that small hole, those defects the odor of the bones I had a great fear, I find any way to withdraw down the sun in shining white, a long way Shuliaokouqi.
Looking back Guge, Huang had to go, and only the ruins of this huge, it seems that also deeply immersed in the Golden Age of Remembrance Lane.
Eaten lunch, a pedestrian Liu Dadao Zanda County of Tuolin Si, under the leadership of the Tashi, our land of Tang and Huang were turned away since childhood, but also over the wall to see it copied Jin Dao 108 pagoda, Tuolin Si's run-down and its name does not match wins, so perfunctory treatment of this temple would also like to receive an expensive ticket is all the more unfair. Fortunately, the river is a pagoda with Mani Dui charges no fees, and this contrary, the most spectacular corner of the temple is really the flavor of some of cart before the horse. I see Mani Dui decorated with a few Red Bull cans, was about to remove his hand, Tashi busy to stop me, "This is a Tibetan family from the species of barley, used dedicated to God," he explained, I would like to see a thin, it was found a few cans at the end of a neat row of small holes poked. Tashi Then You Ji taught us anything, he said that he once took off a Singaporean, from Mani Dui picked away at a stone with the scriptures, and a half months later, she put this rock from the home they send back, Please Tashi put it back in its original location, because a week after she put a stone back to the time, her father and grandfather would have died. After listening to Tashi, we being all the more in the Mani Dui To be honest, and later transferred by the bucket edges found in N number of wipe, originally vowed to bring one or two then go back, can one think of the story of Tashi, we flew into the loss of interest. That 108 has been weathered beyond recognition pagoda, guy to take over Sally's Hua Tou, will compare them to "bumpkin meet", the idea is quite quite similar. Pagoda lash two rows, one row close to the river, the riverbed is high, showing irregular broken line, where the collapse of exposed layer upon layer of pebbles, the shape of the stones seems to imply that we are, where we stand a few million years ago it was a flood plain. The shape of the Blackbird, a group of crows flying over our eyes, this bird of some devout Buddhist country, was regarded as a Bird, I Tashi confirmation or not, he laughed shaking his head, saying that they are not crows, they are called "Jiong (Fa second tone) Karma. " Repeatedly read several times, I like the sound it brings a wonderful feeling. Foot in a few billion years ago the river, thought of as Atlantis will suddenly surfaced as unthinkable. I do not know how long it will be too, perhaps a few hundred thousand years, or maybe only in a downpour of the night, which 54 will be accompanied by a pagoda along the river the Rolling Stones and mud disappear forever in people's field of vision.
Toyota to bring us the Peak, so we bid farewell to forest soil, watching the foot of the endless groove 1000 Wanhe, not help remembering DISCOVERY years in the ratings by the end of the dinosaur era: If the Earth has not changed the time condensed into one day, then the dinosaur is probably not bright days in the early morning hours appear, even before the sun disappeared, during which experienced a long gap, about 11 o'clock or so primates appeared on Earth. A natural good luck hand, a few hundred million years, but also moment, we are able to see these masterpieces for our short life of petty and, frankly, is lucky to matter to the.
The following day's itinerary is not tight, we are bored to death sitting moincer Township, Murao sun, waiting for partner to get up. Hongliu behind the beach is replete with colorful plastic bags, well they're all looked like those horses up and down the wind-whipped flags, found that people would not have fooled a number of very pleasant feeling, at least I is. See Xiao Zhang came from the village limp limp, across all the way I would cry out: Toilet Zeyang? In any case, their own health habits are always deep-rooted. Zhang Chong I have a little fun: quite good, that is, wide-span point, can not stand a long time ... ..., the topic of toilets has become a small episode in the morning.
Kamiyama Gangrenboqi Flor I have met numerous times along the way restaurants and hotels where they repeated study, but to see when it still feels very much surprised. Master Milarepa, and the story of a battle of wits in a variety of versions of the travel manual can be found, while Natiao the ladder down from the hilltop, Tashi come there are still "New said." "What do you mean Ali you know?" We looked at each other, it fell really never heard of. “阿里的意思是'滚辘'，释迦牟尼将他的法器从山上抛下，才留下了这道印子”。有意思，不知道除了我们已知的，关于这座山的故事还有多少。或是我慧根未开，冥顽不灵，没看出山顶巨大的“万”字阶来，只是为它雄岸的身姿，奇特的形状所折服。而这座山峰和与他相伴的神湖的魅力，我也是在后来才慢慢体会到的。
在神山的仳佑下，更多的动物得以保存他们的家园，一路上我们见到了不少四足的身影，晃动着肥硕的屁股的旱獭在洞口探头探脑，长着可笑的小耳朵的鼠兔，正在吃早饭的羚羊远远打量着我们的车，扭转的脖胫摆出一副优雅的姿态，甚至还有一只狐狸，不幸让我们撞见它的行踪，愣了一下后仓惶而逃。
到了塔钦，转山人也就到了起点。其实在塔钦，基本是看不到神山的全貌的。倒是阿里第一高峰—纳木纳尼，清晰可辨，其他这座七千多米山峰伴了我们一路，因为神山，才把它放到了居次的位置。吃过千篇一律的午饭，在下午的阳光下眯起了双眼，透过一线的光亮仔细打量塔钦。它和所有的游记上描述得很一致，杂乱无章，垃圾遍地。虽不是转山的旺季，旺季一般在藏历四月，也就是公历六月初左右，越野车仍然很多，路上随处可见到象我一样的异乡人，在他们中尤其多的是金发碧眼的老外，塔钦的小贩一见他们便会一哄而上，举着手里的商品叫着“look, look”，他们大多摆摆手，也有的居然开口便讲起流利的藏语来，小贩们早已习已为常，倒是让我们吃了一惊。虽然旅行者很多，在塔钦却找不到一家象样的宾馆。或许来到这里的人都已经决心暂时抛弃生活的安适和甜美，要选择在痛苦中洗涤自己的灵魂吧。
拉昂措只能远远打量，据扎西讲，要往普兰才能看清鬼湖的全貌。三位王子的封地我们到了两个，日土和札达，只剩下普兰，如果你有时间，一定要补上这个缺，看看三衮中这个被雪山围绕的地方（虽然一路上你都能看见雪山）。
即乌寺，扎西叫它鸟寺，离塔钦不远，在藏歌的弦子声里，我看见了浩瀚如海的玛旁雍措，那变幻无穷的蓝阿，如雕琢过的水晶覆盖在绿松石上，在光的折射中发出勾人魂魄的色泽。鸟寺建在湖边一座锥状的小山上，未见僧侣，只有些无主的绵羊在风力推动的转经桶边频频回顾我们这几个陌生人。风和日丽的天气，湖岸的大风却刮得人脑壳生疼，信徒们都相信在湖中洗浴能消除人身上嗔、妒等五大恶习，只是这冰冷的湖水实是让人消受不起，如果不是怀有一份因虔诚而带来的喜悦和毅力，又有几个凡人的身体能挨得住。天上的云朵不知是否也是被这大风吹成了这样丝丝缕缕，点点片片，还是在佛音呢语中受了点化，分明那是上天的云梯，而这边又是菩萨足下的朵朵白莲。五彩的风马旗也是新换的模样，旗上字字句句、工工整整撰写着真言，朝向圣湖，也朝向神山。忽然，我又发现离我们不远处跑来一只狗，如果不是通体黄色，我还以为是古格那只的兄弟呢，两者的神情一样得旁若无人。我们相傍走了一段，狗儿又往湖岸踱去，奇的是未闻犬吠，也没见湖岸的水鸟惊飞，两都好象老相识一样相安无事。书上说圣湖的龙王掌管着财富，常有朝圣者在湖边拾取五彩石，有些千里迢迢带回去，作为最珍贵的礼物相赠。这个故事估计已经说了上百年，湖岸现在哪里还有五彩石的踪影，倒是云英石比比皆是，光闪闪的也甚是好看。家伙看我欲罢不能的样子，嘲笑我见识少，说他还光着屁股蛋呢就玩过无数这样的石头了。呵呵，也不能让龙王瞧见我太贪心的样子，我只留下了两块最小的。
转湖和转山一样也是信徒们表达虔诚的方式，围绕玛旁雍措走一圈要四天的时间，我只是匆匆过客，不奢望能得到什么升华，终于受不了那强劲的狂风，寻着住地而去。即乌村隐在即乌寺那座山后，村前有清亮的小溪，整个村子就象一户人家的大院，大院里跑出一个穿红着绿的小姑娘，项上挂着银饰，斜背香囊，才离开圣湖，就遇上这么个小仙女，我们急吼吼拦住她的去路，千截难逢的机会，万万不能放过罗。横竖拍了一通后，小仙女冲着远处指指点点，嘴里说了几句藏话（听不懂，苦恼），顺方向看去，原来四个大字“神湖淋浴”。 Bath?要的。只是不知道这洗澡水里有没有兑点热的，再想听闻的温泉应该也不在这里，只好婉言拒绝了她的好意。见小姑娘面露失望，我便从车上拿了些文具和水果给她，她很腼腆地拿了一支铅笔，我真是喜欢看她脸红红的样子，于是抓了一把递给她，她接过去，又笑笑，转身跑开了。回身进了我们的小屋，虽然简陋倒也干净，不过好象少了点什么，“没电”，小张提醒我。 “不如乘早赶到霍尔去”大陆建议，我后悔当时动了心，比起霍尔来，这个小村落其实更加温馨可爱。
霍尔离即乌寺不过3、5公里，却是另一番景象，和塔钦一样，因为接纳了不少的朝圣者而留下了不少难以消化的污染。没电，也没水，唯一值得安慰得是，纳木纳尼近在眼前。在神湖旅馆，我们看见了印度人的车队，听扎西讲，印度人朝圣的狂热非比一般，每年都有不少人在朝圣的路上死去，但年年不断，后继者还会纷纷踏来。下午的时间很无聊，除了等待夕照雪峰，其余无所事事。扎西也放松了几天紧张疲乏的神经，和他的藏族兄弟们打牌去了。
昨晚云层太厚，没有如愿；只听家伙说，夜里倒是起来一次，看见星光下雪峰东面那2000的断崖就象一只巨兽的大口，令人发簌。今天又是一天赶路，披星带月就走了，可惜要再与之错失一次。太阳永远都是色驴的幸运女神，她终于在我们最后一站可以看到阿里第一峰的地方冉冉升起了。冰雪覆盖的雪峰此时看起来如梦似幻，此时寂静的平原上只能听到汽车发动机的轰鸣和相机的咔嚓声。
昨日在五色斑斓中徜徉了一天，今天又是一段辛苦的赶路。虽然对糟糕的路面已经习以为常，而在藏南这样气候相对和缓的地方看到如此严重的沙漠化现象，还是令人触目惊心。还有一点让人难过的地方，那就是行至此段，我们已经走出阿里的地域了。虽然后面还有日喀则的一段行程，虽然阿里在西藏也不过只是一个地区符号，然而对于我而言，此次行程的目的地已经走完，回想匆匆而过的八天，总觉得能呆在阿里的时间太短，太短。
当天下午到了萨嘎，在住宿的问题上团队内产生了一点分歧，原因是大陆再也无法忍受混居的局面，而且住宿的卫生条件也令他头痛，还好，县上唯一的一家宾馆替他解决了问题，否则恐怕他要继续失眠下去。虽然我们去时萨嘎又遇上了长达半个月的停电，但我已看到桥头四五层楼高级宾馆正在建设中，一切阻碍不了这里变得更加现代化的脚步，而越接近城市，我们的队伍就愈松散，大家都有些归家的急迫。
早上九点，我们一车人在加吉渡口等待渡船起锚。雅鲁藏布江在此处并不宽阔，遥遥可见对岸排成一溜的车队。这时有几个藏族的孩子围上来，伸手做出一个“要”的姿势。他们大的不过七八岁年纪，小的只有四五岁的样子，个个浑身上下，包括脸蛋在内，都是黑黢黢的颜色，头发纠结在一起，眼角红红的，还有些溃烂，五月的天气还很寒冷，特别是早晨，而这些孩子几乎都是衣不蔽体。我们在最贫困的双湖，见到的牧民的孩子，也没有如此模样。我和小张把搁在外边的零食和文具一股脑儿分给了他们。他们拿到后并没离去，还眼巴巴看着我们，伸着手，此时，又来了更多的孩子，我便又爬上车，到后车厢翻找剩余的东西，几个孩子在外边不断扒着车门把手，我脚刚一挨地，他们便一哄而上，特别是先前那几个孩子，见我把铅笔分给了别人，唉唉叫着拽着我的衣服上来便抢，最后，我抵挡不住落荒而逃，孩子们尾随而至，江边上演了一场小鸡抓老鹰的活剧。最后我只能胡乱把所有的东西塞给一个大孩子了事。渡船启动了，有两个大孩子也跳上了渡船，船老大倒也不介意，十分钟的光景，我们的车便到了对岸。那两孩子继而又向对岸的车队乞讨。我不清楚孩子们是否依赖这种方式“自力更生”，那游客的纷至沓来，又给这座县城带来了什么，为什么最贫困的人会出现在这一路上最现代化的县城，和我一样的过路人，应该想一想这个问题。
其后的三天行程是这样的：渡江后我们往吉隆方向而去，穿过希夏巴马自然保护区，经老、新定日到拉孜。第二天从拉孜出发到萨迦，下午抵达日喀则，第三天去到江孜、从浪卡子走老路返回拉萨。因为印象深刻的不多，所以我只挑精彩的加以记录。
佩古措和无名雪山。车行在去往吉隆的路上，忽见一片碧蓝色，蓝得十分温润，有如一块璞玉。湖的西南方向，一座雪峰拔地而起，连绵也有数十里。这一路雪山与湖泊看了不少，但没见过如此相偎相依的，近得好象你能把它们都揽进怀里，但那只是我一厢情愿的妄想吧。
在崎岖不平的道路上颠簸了太久，忽然看见几辆风驰电掣的摩托从你视野中经过，你会是什么反应？其实一路上我们见了不少用各种方式来游历西藏的人，最辛苦的当属徒步和自行车，没有金属外壳的保护，高原上的烈日、大风、尘土可谓毫无保留，加上高海拔、负重和体力的消耗无疑又为这种方式增加了更多的危险；最奢侈的，当属驾车游，这群人有时间也有钱，因为在这里如遇突发状况弃车也是常事，即便能走完全程，估计车辆也基本报费，心疼的话劝你还是别玩；最夸张就是骑上摩托，基本就是一场高速度的越野赛，没有过人的技术那只有当伤兵的下场；而最勇敢的永远是独自上路，特别是在人迹罕至的阿里，单靠勇气是远远不够的，不能永垂青史也许只能怪你运气不好，不过永垂不朽倒是一念之间的事。然而无论用何种方式来到这里，大家的目标都是一致的，或许这就是不同国度不同背景的人能在这里融洽相处的原因吧。
海子曾把一首诗献给了一座山，他说：一块石头坐满了整个天空，没有一个黄昏能令我沉睡，也没有一个清晨能让我醒来。有哪座山能配上诗人这般的赞美，是的，只有珠穆朗玛。藏语中珠穆朗玛的意思是第三女神，在传说中她主司畜牧和农业，如果说冈仁波齐是西藏人的精神寄托，那珠穆朗玛则是西藏人心目中的衣食父母。在去定日的途中，可以看见四座连在一起的雪峰，他们是马卡鲁、洛子、卓奥友和希夏巴马，个个都是雪山中的伟丈夫，而只要那高高在上的女神遮开她的面纱，那些八千米的山峰就顿显黯然失色。当你看见只有在珠峰才看得见的旗云象风吹雪花纷纷而下，你无法不为之怦然心动，你也会理解那些登山者的初衷，因为山在那里，这些地球表面突起的物体，却有着超乎寻常的吸引力。
有位女作家在她的书里奉劝所有想去西藏的朋友：如果你不了解西藏的宗教，你去西藏至少失去一半的意义。此行中，我们没有太多的时间和机会去逐一造访这些寺院，对布达拉宫和扎什伦布等大寺更是望尘莫及，只在萨迦寺和白居寺走马观花了一番，不知能找到几分失去的意义。
萨迦寺是西藏现存四大教派的萨迦派的祖寺，距今有一千年左右的历史。萨迦派建筑非常容易辨识，因为它只采用三种颜色，绛红、紫色和白，分别代表文殊菩萨、金钢手菩萨和观音。教区内的民居也延用了这三色，远远望去，周围的一切和萨迦寺如同一体。没有唬人的山门，广场上狗儿横躺竖卧，成群结队的鸽子或栖于檐下，或盘桓而飞，咕咕声不绝于耳，让人陡生一股亲切感。迈入大殿，却忽然进入了另一个世界，阳光透过高高的天窗洒在殿顶一圈祥兽上，除了这一点有限的光源，便是一盏盏酥油灯的点点星火。大殿内40根梁柱支起这一方圣土，其中更有四根直径一米多的巨柱惹人注目，在时而吹响的低沉的海螺声里，听一位小法师为我们娓娓道来，他告诉我们这四根柱子各有其名，分别叫作呼必烈柱、流血柱（据说吹伐此树时，切口处渗出殷殷鲜血来）、老虎柱和牦牛柱（传说因为树形巨大，一般的车辆无法载动，故萨迦派的祖师变作老虎和牦牛才将大树驮回寺中），而那只海螺更是2500年前的造化之物，辗转从印度进贡给呼必烈，而呼必烈又将它送给了他的国师，八思巴，一代代留存至今。小法师的汉语虽然说得不很流利，我们也无法探究这些传说的真伪，只是在这般深厚的历史面前不由得肃然起敬。萨迦寺也被称作“第二敦煌”，殿内壁上画有百多幅的“曼陀罗”图，除此之外，数千卷的“贝叶经”也是此寺的镇寺之宝。我们匆匆转了一圈，没有找到这些“宝贝”，遂向寺中的喇嘛打听究竟。原来贝叶经早就移师闺中，不轻易向人展露真容，而元代的壁画吗，自然就在寺中，难道你们没有看见吗？被师父一问，我倒愣住了，返身又进了偏殿，偏殿内只有二三平方左右的两扇窗户，油灯摇曳中我只见一卷卷封存的经卷和一座座活佛的灵塔，我自知无法参透生死，在众多先人的躯体的包围下我无法压抑阵阵恐惧，殿内空无一人，我几乎就要夺路而逃。后来，后来我看见了殿的深处有一线天光，似乎还有洞天，我探头探脑地往纵深处去，深恐黑暗里跳出什么不可思异的东西来。我看清了，那座中心位置的灵塔后是一幅呼必烈召见八思巴的壁画，我无意又往墙上瞥了一眼，隐隐约约是一幅幅精妙图案，那不是曼陀罗是什么，下车时我竟然忘记带上头灯，此时真是无比懊悔。忽然想起了手中的数码相机，或许闪光灯可以照下一些图影，忽听背后有动静，我做贼心虚几乎要跳将起来，转身一看，居然在灵塔的背后还架着一座脚手架，两个喇嘛正缓缓从架子上爬下来，原来是修补壁画的匠人。我在一片黑暗里默默注视着他们的动作，再也没有勇气把手中的相机举起来。
白居寺坐落在富饶的江孜平原上，对于这个地名很陌生的人，如果你看过《红河谷》和阿来的《尘埃落定》，便不能算对这里一无所知了。白居寺内的菩提塔（也叫十万佛塔）几乎就是这座寺的标志，很多人都为目睹这塔内十万佛龛和无计其数的壁画而来，我们又岂能例外。不过转过一圈后窃以为，菩提塔内的壁画和佛像大多似出于同一朝代，且是一批匠人的手笔，变化少，繁复但显得很滞重，没有藏教佛像的夸张想像和灵动飘逸。白居寺据说是格鲁、萨迦和噶当三大教派的融汇之地，但单就这个寺院而言，并无海纳百川的泱泱大气。白居寺的主建筑后的山坡上有座废弃的大殿，远看似有香火的样子，走近才发现山上并无现成的路，但沿着几米就有数块小石头垒起的玛尼堆，你可以顺着这些“路标”攀爬上去。殿门内望去已是一片砖土，只是殿门外的四壁上还有保存完好的壁画，但色彩之丰富，形象之生动比起塔内倒有过之而无不及。看见后你别急着离开，还有一道木梯可以一直通到天台，在那里可以俯看江孜平原，宗英城堡也近在咫尺。天台上鲜花盛开，经幢摇荡，我不知是谁亲手住下了这些花草，忽然听到一阵欢笑声，楼梯上先是露出一个小姑娘的脑袋，随后是一个抱着暖瓶的老人，再然后是一个背着孩子的藏族妇人。从他们的交谈姿势里可以看出女孩正在笑话她妈妈爬坡的笨拙模样。我与他们擦身而过，到底也没弄明白他们来此的用意，或是郊游，还是本来便是这里的住户？下得山来，转过成排的转经桶，见檐下的阴影里横七竖八躺了数十条狗，蹑手蹑脚绕过它们，唯恐惊动了狗儿们的甜梦，走到寺内的广场上，不大的地方空无一人，只有风吹树叶的哗哗声，我忽然觉得这里更象是一户大户人家的院落，在江孜，这样的院落也是稀松平常的。
卡拉冰川可一笔带过，成群兜售水晶的小贩把我围了个水泄不通，什么东西会毁了一片美景，不是天灾，而是“人祸”。羊卓雍措，是和纳木措、玛旁雍措齐名的三大圣湖之一，然后比起后两者来，羊湖稍稍逊了一筹。但羊湖也有它的独到之处，浪卡子也非浪得虚名，这里四季风都很大，吹得湖面银波闪闪，远远看去如同条条飞鱼跃出水面一般。沿湖正在修缮公路，尘土很大，把扎西才在日喀则洗刷一新的宝贝丰田又弄得满身泥泞。说句心里话，我还要感谢西藏那些永远也修不完的路，难以想象如果有一天这里的路上都铺上了柏油，西藏还是你我心中的西藏吗？
回到拉萨
回到拉萨，已是入夜时分，只是这里的日头落得迟，我也早就习惯了跟着日头的转动吃饭睡觉，已经习惯了的从明天起又将改变，心里有说不出的滋味。在冈朵梅拉享受了最后一顿晚餐，见不少老外赤足斜靠在松软的坐垫里，一人霸占了两个人的地盘，悠然自得的模样令人羡慕得嗓子眼冒泡。
街灯一抹黄晕投在八朗学宽敞的房间里，同伴已发出沉重的呼吸声，街上不时传来的响动却象羽毛一样搔着我的心，今晚失眠我也是甘愿的，如果这样可以挽留一些时间。
最初的高原反应打乱了我的生活作息，藏北高原颠簸崎岖的路磨钝了我的感官和思想，几乎让我质疑自己此行的目的；适应是个过程，我的感受和公里数一起慢慢得累加起来，甚至在象筛子一样摇晃的车厢里还补上了一段西藏历史。眼睛看到的美会让人迷醉，了解却更让人依恋，我知道这片土地已扎根在我心里，无法自拔。
西藏不再是远不及的梦想，不再充满高不可攀的神秘，亦无需为曾经到过那里而豪情万丈，十数日只是惊鸿一瞥，留下良多的遗憾。 “回到拉萨，回到了布达拉宫……”，郑钧唱这首歌时还没有到过拉萨，我断言他所呼喊的是彼岸的理想，我在返程的途中默默吟唱着这句歌词，那是我如同恋家般的思念和渴望。
Postscript:
这篇游记我花了很长的时间来写，努力想写出我对西藏的认识和感情，这两者都是由浅及深的。在写的过程中，也有个时时的读者，他对我的游记提出了不少批评意见，我却不甚明了缺陷所在。不久前，收到同伴小张给我发的一篇“走出阿里”，作者是已故的探险家余纯顺。读完后我忽然明白了为什么我写得辛苦，而看的人又不满意的原因。余纯顺把西藏，特别是徒步阿里，比喻成“回到了人类的童年”。坐在与外界基本分离的小车里，匆忙得穿过那些乡镇和县城，在雪山和湖泊前稍作停留，这一切都不能让我真正地体味西藏，体味阿里，更谈不上“回到童年”的感受了。的确，有些阻碍是客观的，比如时间、工作，但也有些阻碍是主观的，比如畏难、畏险、害怕艰苦等等。遗憾的是阿里之行已经结束了，幸好这些反思还能在我今后的旅程中受用。有一档旅行节目专门报道过一对年逾花甲的老夫妻自助西藏游的故事，路就在脚下，但愿我也能象他们一样，永远不要丢失对未知的探索和好奇心，以及走向远方的勇气。
作者：anna_d
