Long Qinghai-Tibet Road to Heaven
September 28, 2003 -10 on Wednesday, 1 Shanghai - Lanzhou - Golmud
In planning the trip when the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, Qinghai and Tibet travel agency gives the Golmud to Lhasa, chartered quotes seem to have the meaning of cheating, some friends went to Golmud brigade told us that in the Golmud Railway Station can be found cheaper the car, so we decided to re-chartered in Golmud.
Because I do not have access to a rare vacation leave, time is very rich, so I work 28 days later on the fly from Shanghai to Lanzhou, by doing so one day, plenty of time to Golmud or car. The aircraft was sitting less than three percent of the guests, but still can not discount, because the company has monopolized the Northwest China Eastern routes.
Lanzhou airport, very far away from the city, about seventy to eighty kilometers bar, and good road conditions good, the car was small and an hour or so to the urban areas, misled by the Ctrip, a pre-booked a hotel in the small West Lake , very far away from the railway station, had a night of will.
The next day to help other companions Gaoding a berth ticket to Golmud, then the shore of the Yellow River in Lanzhou, casual stroll, the sky was gloomy, the Yellow River shore is sparse addition of broken monuments, the Yellow River water Hunhuanghunhuang, everything is so I read the mood soon there will be no pleasure, simply go to the station early and ready to Golmud bar.
After the train left the station in Lanzhou, I simply eat some things began to look at from a "Tibetan antelopes Manual" look tired early just to sleep, and sleep some more sense to adapt to high altitude helpful. The night train, cold, frozen uncomfortable feet are always cold. Morning woke up, the train had been traveling in the Qaidam Basin, and an endless barren land, no I can not imagine the desolate, very few can enjoy the scenery. Suddenly, the window changes to a very bright light, a shining white of a rise out of the window to see the original to the Chaerhan Salt Lake, Salt Lake in Salt careful in fact appear dirty, no way to imagine the good-looking. However, the train really opened a good while, unfortunately to imagine the vast salt lake, but is not built to go the road salt, or else you can appreciate the saying goes, a salt bridge.
Sleep in the opposite to me was a less than 50-year-old middle-aged educated women, and she see that I came to travel, he waves enthusiastically introduced me to the situation along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, the original design of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, she was research personnel. Northwest person is enthusiastic, not only told me that a lot of the Qinghai-Tibet railway construction in the story, but also eager to stay and name of the phone to me and asked me in the Qinghai-Tibet Highway to contact her if you need help though.
Train punctuality to Golmud later, I found I had actually come to a day in vain, Station Square, all passengers and vehicles, then only the day's business, so I simply recharge your batteries in at the hotel, feel very bored suddenly remembered previous Online encountered a Golmud netizens, were still in contact telephone number, change to call him, a pity that others had gone to celebrate a holiday in Xining.
In the Golmud sleep a night, basically do not feel altitude reaction. However, the climate here, already have a cold late autumn. To the Golmud Railway Station, waiting for an hour faster, Xiao Sun, Xiao Meng, Xiao Shao, Xiao-shu, and Sakura five companions take the train to arrive. Five of them in the train took me to a terrified, and everyone with two or three large packages, it seems they think too much poverty in Tibet. Dragging heavy luggage to the hotel where he stayed, and finally feel the oxygen plateau. Eat lunch, and we also walk to the Golmud City in six shopping malls, to spend 55 dollars a person to buy a military coat, but also bought a fruit and other food, makes our luggage how many.
Golmud to listen to local people, said the station or car is not safe, so Komago said that when he was on the train, listening to people say that armed police in the southern suburbs of Lhasa Guest House has sent a new car, so we have to try his luck . Called a taxi, the driver did not know the armed police guest house in the southern suburbs of our pulled the bus station to Lhasa station in a southeastern effective card driver said to us 2,000 yuan can be chartered. Left his phone number, to come back the way we have discovered by accident an armed police guest house inquiries He does have a new car to Lhasa, but tomorrow, only the Buick Regal and Sail, the price is not expensive Dao Shi, Bao a Regal 1000 yuan So we decided to sit Regal Ben Lhasa, and in the roof of the world's sky-the road to sit Regal did kind of hilarious.
October 2, 2003 Thursday, Golmud - Tuotuohe along the
Today we will officially start Golmud to Lhasa, and we have a newly married couple Xiaoxue companions because the wedding had to wait until today to reach Golmud. Responsible to the train station early in the morning Xiao Meng Xiao Xue couple cars, the five of us is responsible for all of our luggage transported to the Regal, the driver of a change see our luggage cried, "which is a tourist you and your, ah, ah It's not moving? "No wonder the driver yelling, our luggage was indeed more like a migration to Tibet. The results of two Regal can not be loaded, we had another package of a Sail loaded baggage.
Our Regal finally starting, and an exit Golmud Golmud highway on the right is the river, the riverbed is deep ravines, and river mud stands straight forward to tens of meters high, of rarely seen landscapes, water color is light shallow emerald green, very good-looking, this rosy picture that we regarded as a prelude to a trip to Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Dealers around two hours to naij tal, the immediate peak of Kunlun jade Everest stands at the road side, was kept circling overhead, goshawk, and perhaps the reasons for building the Qinghai-Tibet railway, this small place is not lack of popularity, along the road are lined up with many shops, as if a small town look. Driver in this eating lunch, several of us feel no hunger, there is no meal. An hour later, to continue the road, pretty soon went to the Kunlun Pass, Qinghai-Tibet railway on the edge of the road, a railway used to send material goods vehicles roaring past, let us be ahead of Mercedes-Benz saw a train on the Qinghai-Tibet railway scene. Is to look at the Kunlun Pass Suonandajie tombstone, we are no exception, everyone in this left a shadow, to commemorate the heroes in the cause of environmental protection. In the Kunlun Pass, we not only feel the wind and low-temperature plateau, and the effect of altitude sickness began to torment our health.
Along the way line, Yu Xu Feng is far from standing in the right side of the road, snow-capped mountains under the open, Hoh Xil, the Hoh Xil late autumn, the grass had withered and yellow, and we stared, hoping to see the famous Tibetan antelope, wild yak, etc., or other other highland wildlife Unfortunately, the weather has been staring into the dim, still nothing. Sakura with the car and small-Shu have begun clamoring for sick headache, and I feel sleepy look, after all, is 4,500 meters above the plateau. When the sun was setting, a golden grassland, truly beautiful, can not help but ask the driver to stop off camera, I immediately felt the car highland cold, raging, there is no station at the roadside half a minute, head immediately and windy cold wind blowing like Dao Pi general pain, hastens back to the car, massage the temples, Lao Bantian it feels to ease a little. Basically, the sky completely black, I look at a table is 7:00, this time on the one of our car reached the bridge, in front there is a big market town, here is the Tuotuohe along, the driver brought us to a small guest houses stay there the night we seem to have little appetite, point of gruel and some vegetables to eat, but I do not normally eat, and as many as would like to ensure the physical may be more important.
Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is very beautiful night sky, a sky full of the stars, the Milky Way clear and debate. No television, no other entertainment, we had no choice but to go to bed early, hoping sleep tomorrow can alleviate altitude sickness. Some faster, I woke up from sleep and found himself less than three hours before falling asleep, feeling the elephant made a high fever-like pain. At this time, the window outside the two dogs barking constantly, quarrel I can not sleep, Xiao Meng, Xiao-Dan's sleeping bag groom constantly buzzing sounds, they did not fall asleep, Xiao Sun from time to time in the sigh, I see little Sun did not sleep, just chatting about the day, all night barking dog outside the window has not been idle time, coupled with headache, we have no way of making sleep. About 4:30 or so, I found that I Komago asleep, he encouraged me in this sleep, so I have to calm down to sleep, really quickly fell asleep.
October 3, 2003 Friday Tuotuohe along - Tanggula mouth - Lhasa
When waking up is 6:30, and Qi Lechuang and I go to a Tuotuohe Komago sunrise, Tuotuohe water is not deep, the river is divided into myriad water in a very wide beach on the flow, sunrise the sun shining on the water suffused with golden light, a veteran of about 50 workers to carry our enthusiasm for the Qinghai-Tibet Highway us about the situation, see the simplicity of the older workers in love with this piece of land and this sky-road. Enjoy a beautiful sunrise Tuotuohe back to hostel, and our companions have to get up, and then everyone Xu Tao from the night of the plateau response to suffering, it seems we are not sleep, each person's face than yesterday even more ugly, are like a patient-like. Chiba breakfast, we got a bad news, one of our car keys were careless locks to the luggage compartment, the other night had to come out of the car from Lhasa will be sent to the other keys, we had no choice but to spend in the room chat time.
About 11:00 prosperous years, the key was finally sent, we will proceed towards a worrying embarked Tanggula pass. Car near Tanggula open when the scenery became very idea of the sublime, the sky, such as a Bi-washing, rolling snow-capped mountains towering at the end of the road, cars opened a long, long time before they reach the foot of the Tanggula pass, the road on the left there is a big lakes, water color is very nice, beautiful snow-capped mountains just the reflection in the water. We hail the driver to stop, the driver said that the scenery can be uphill all the way corners, until stopping in front again, so we have from the driver. Drivers to drive the truck to pass Caiting off, we discovered that regret, because it had become a beautiful lake is far from a puddle, and not as previously in the snow in front of, let alone a beautiful reflection of the. Yamaguchi look at the snow-capped mountains, road side of the wire, just block the screen, how can not be avoided, and we had to give up the idea of beauty photographed. Pass winds very big, cold holding bone, Xiao Sun also said that the violence has been Fengyi Chui head pain, I may have just eaten cold medicine, it is no longer being felt a headache, but also frozen quickly got into the car business resumed .
After crossing the Tanggula pass is Tibet, and down the Tanggula, cars traveling in the Qiangtang grasslands, where the plants were significantly higher than the side of the Qinghai-horses, cattle and sheep and with many more, not less, as the Qinghai deserted. Gradually dim sky, the sun hiding. To Amdo, the driver parked the car at a gas station take a break. Out of the car and found another couple and a car Xiao Meng Xiao Xue couples face iron gray, seem to have got more serious look, we seem to have no appetite to eat, so he simply continued the road, as quickly as possible to the low-lying areas , the body can ease the discomfort. Our car, and I Komago bodily sensations can be, Sakura and small-shu, have been said that he sad, Sakura is no way out, one to elevations up to the place, she says that uncomfortable, elevation a drop, she said that a good point, and she cried, we control the elevation of the table and found that she was uncomfortable all the time at least 4,500 meters above sea level, her feel better when the elevation in 4300 following a very precise, as if there is a specific function like, We joked with her after the plateau, we are no longer with the elevation of the table. Xiao-shu is the way cried, no longer traveling on the plateau. Originally, we intend to be folded into the Nam Co Damxung Zhuyi Ye, but everyone heard that Namco is more than 4700 meters above sea level, they have come to the psychological fear, take a look at the physical condition of most people have problems, so we decided to or the first day in Lhasa, and so to restore the body play in the back to Namco.
Cars to Nagqu time, exactly when the setting sun, Nagqu grassland scenery is very good, distant mountains have been plated with gold and yellow, the builders of the Qinghai-Tibet railway is still non-stop work. When approaching Yangbajing days completely dark. After the last night of sleep, today's the day to run around, coupled with altitude sickness torture, approaching Lhasa, I clearly felt that exhaustion, we wait for them to immediately fell on the bed. Because a day in advance to Lhasa, we do not make reservations for hotels, coupled with precisely the time when the peak Golden Week tourists, many hotels have rooms of Lhasa, and we keep in the car with the phone stay in Lhasa. Perhaps we have been suffering altitude sickness was unbearable, so we agreed that to live-star hotels, in the driver's prompt, we finally set to the Potala Palace, Beijing Road, near the Post and Telecommunications Hotel.
I immediately felt out of the car were limp, and even the words should be forced to say, people really have been tired to the extreme, but fortunately the weather was very warm feeling in Lhasa appropriate. Arranged the room, wanted to immediately lay down to sleep, but think that he has not eaten in 10 hours, strong drum up the energy, peers say hello to the opposite point of the fast-food nutrition, but our party of eight, only five had there is strength to go for dinner. Dinner, small-shu also cried no longer come to the plateau, and we all go along with, I said: "Two days later, at least half the people will no longer say, because the altitude reaction time also 23 . "
October 4, 2003 Saturday, Jokhang Monastery - Sera
Nice sleep that night, getting up early in the morning feeling restored a lot, we went to the Jokhang Temple Chilezaocan to the Jokhang Temple Square, as the crowd around the 8 Gallery Street unconsciously weekend, and did not find the door of the Jokhang Temple , etc. Back to Square was discovered that the door on the middle of the square.
A pilgrimage to Lhasa every person, to Lhasa is the first stop to the Jokhang Temple, we are no exception, followed by devout Tibetans in stroll around in a circle in the Jokhang Monastery, a Tibetan girl with her little brother to us with enthusiasm Introduction Jokhang Temple's history and stories, listening to us relish. Turn finished temple, we climbed up the dome over the Jokhang Temple, the Potala Palace, towering stands not far away on the hills, blue sky was exceptionally clear and deep blue, while more than half of Lhasa city has also glimpses of the Golden Summit scenery very well that the camera a good place to warm and the sun has even more reluctant to leave we sweated in the golden dome on the linger for an hour, approaching lunch time, we did not leave the Jokhang Temple.
Post on our live hotel where there was to eat dishes of seafood restaurants, allegedly the most expensive of the whole Lhasa city seafood restaurant, our lunch was on the luxury of a back, but still be able to eat authentic Guangdong Qinghai-Tibet Plateau vegetables, really makes us no longer have to worry about taste is not used to it. Ate rest a back, we follow the prompts on the guidebook, in time for the 14 o'clock went to the Sera Monastery, Sera because at that time there is a debate by the lamas. First came to the door of Sera Monastery, Xiao Meng couples say they do not go read, because the body Buxing Liao Xiao Meng, he caught a cold with altitude sickness, and his face had iron gray iron gray. Entered the Sera Monastery, and debate the scriptures just the beginning, two to three hundred monks in the midst of Chiang Kai-shek into the woods to argue with, we can not understand their language, but they argued the action by the time attracted us, and we imitate them up at the edge of debate when the clap, and stamping their feet by the action. After reading the debate, due to the hurry to go to the Potala Palace booking tickets tomorrow, we had to hurriedly called the car left the Sera Monastery. To the Potala Palace and bought tickets for tomorrow, a small Shu and Sakura decided to Zaiqu 8 Gallery Street shopping, Xiao Sun is one person to the Majiemi bar meditation, because I feel has not fully recovered physically, he go back to hotel to sleep.
19:00, we all talked with each other message, agreed to eat dinner together, eat the small-shu exclaiming, Hangzhou dishes, so we follow the presentation to find the driver the day before yesterday, Hangzhou restaurants, asking for Lao Bantian not found, but to In a flower called the Qing Hall to the north-east dumpling meal Dongbei. After dinner, the small-shu also proposed to see a folk dance, inquiring of the Lao Bantian, found that many dance halls that only a modern entertainment such as karaoke OK. So we decided to go to bars sit, to the homeless street bars, the bar only a few guests from Jiangsu Province, and they invited us to play with them to kill the game. Mei Wan few rounds, I have found my special ability of the powerful wind blows, the bad guys still can not escape my eyes, I almost win every round, we are slowly beginning to realize the detection of my ability, so I started feeling confident . But never expected the final round, I feel the error occurred, I am also very confident that I can bet on a 100, a result that I finally lost one and had to pay for the drinks we used to.
October 5, 2003 at the Potala Palace - Namco - Lhasa
Get up early in the morning then go to the Potala Palace, a pity that the weather did not yesterday, today, less bright, just rained, not only cold but also a great wind blowing around us feel the biting cold, we quickly hid in the Potala Palace, . There is no tour guide, then many of the Potala Palace, the story of history and culture can not understand, so we had invited a tour guide, tour guides took us first turn of the ritual used in the Red Palace, a careful understanding of ancient story of the Dalai Lama, the Red Palace is indeed magnificent, all Zuoxiang are inlaid with precious stones and gold, some of the above there is a South African diamond as big as a fist is really incredibly luxurious. Does not end the Red Palace, the Dalai Lama look at life in the White House, is very simple, the room size is not large, the Dalai Lama is like a small attic bedroom, living room and the meeting with Marshal Chen Yi is also less than a lot of ordinary family living room so much. Approaching noon when the mood is with very fond memories of the stone steps along the Potala Palace, to leave this mysterious palace, back saw towering Potala Palace, the momentum is indeed extraordinary.
At noon, the sky bright a lot, but the travel agent informed us that, originally scheduled to good to go yesterday, Namco did not return the car because yesterday in Lhasa, so we have replaced a large Pakistani-made car to Namco. Pakistan-made cars than the sea lions car back and forth slowly three hours, so we have time on the road too long, and will be very hard, so we found the hotel Gaisangdonzhub postal managers to help, did not expect Gaisangdonzhub Managers immediately helped us to the transfer of a Jinbei van.
13:00, we are starting to go so wrong, the car has opened Nyainqentanglha when the sky clouded again, but also it began to snow, but when you drive when the male and over the mountains after the sky suddenly clear the distant blue color, Namco lie in a vast savannah. We opened the car faster on the prairie an hour before an approaching Tashi Peninsula, the car stops, we quickly jumped out of cars, the lake constantly pressed the camera shutter, greedy attempt to Namco blue clear green water, the rain, the peaks are Nyainqentanglha home. Kuangpai a while, we have along the lakeshore to the Tashi peninsula mountain cape around, along the way devout Tibetan Tashi peninsula is surrounded by Mt. Windy lake plateau bone-chilling wind so that we had to go to the car is taken to the Golmud procurement of military coat, sat quietly the lake, watching the deep lake, Namco incessant beating the embankment , watching the dark sky and gradually became Xi Chen sun, his mind seemed to no longer need any ideas, would wait by the piercing wind and the crisp sound of the waves will wash one's soul. The sun nearing the horizon when the Tashi peninsula, the mountains have become particularly dazzling, such as the powder coating on the Buddhist temple. Red sun so slowly back to the embrace of the sacred Namco.
Time to leave the Nam Co, there are two Beijing visitors to our car ride back to Lhasa, our car was Gold bristle from the car is still traveling on the lake when the sky is already completely dark, a car people are beginning to began to doze. 22:00 more time because of the Qinghai-Tibet highway blocked since a car accident, the accident finally drove through the road, our car away from the fork in the road a mile Yangbajing where the fault occurred, the driver Daogu for a long time, but also there is no way to crank up the power slowly and not enough cars, and we are fully into the darkness of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Fortunately, we have a flashlight and a headlight, the driver borrowed a flashlight to our continued Daogu his car, still no way to get cars moving. As a result, the driver had to Lhasa Gaisangdonzhub manager called, asking them to come to meet us. In this way, we sat in the cold dark night in four hours, and finally wait until the Gesang managers and a few friends drove another car to the rescue of a Gold Cup. 4:00, we finally returned to Lhasa in the Post Hotel, we almost always too busy to think 16 hours of hunger, engaged reverse gear then went to sleep. 6:00 am, when my phone's alarm rang, I would like to send Kosakura Quzuo Airport Shuttle
October 6, 2003 Monday, Drepung Monastery - 8 Gallery Street
6:00 am, when my phone's alarm rang, I would like to send Kosakura Quzuo airport shuttle, Sakura is because on the 8th to go to work, had to go home early. Seven previous days in Lhasa have not yet light, the Sakura brought the airport shuttle bus, I returned to the room, refused to take a Caishui for two hours, picked up my camera, just to shoot the Potala Palace on the day Chakpori out. The weather is not perfect, are more clouds, sunrise is not very pretty, but they have seen the golden sunshine of the Potala Palace, at that moment. 8:30, when returned to the Post Hotel, see Gesang manager, Gesang manager surprised I have been up so early. Ate breakfast, I went back to the room to sleep, but ten o'clock, when Shu Xiao Meng and small give me a call, when the subject of today's program. Xiao Meng has been regretting that did not go to live in Lhasa Tibetan hotel, so he and his wife Xiao Shao went back to the Housing Gallery 8 school. 11:00 more, they learn from the 8 Gallery phoned, saying that there is room, and quite good, so I Komago and small-shu discussed, and decided to move to eight gallery today learn to live. Xiao Xue couple because of cold and altitude sickness, so they decided to leave Lhasa by plane and did not walk with us the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, and then at noon, I have separate action.
To leave the Post Hotel ago, Gesang manager for a driver to us, he called Wu Jin, is a typical Kham guy, his car is a Toyota 4500. WU Jin-drivers can really be outcry, one a 18,000 yuan, get scared us, but now it is still the Golden Week, the chartered cost in the future is very expensive, Moreover, this time business is booming in Lhasa, off-road vehicles, cars difficult to find, we have had, and that he will fare about 14,000 yuan, think, or expensive ah. Wu Jin driver will send us to 8 Gallery science, settled the room later, the small-shu Hangzhou, shouted to eat her favorite dish, so we found one in Beijing, Hangzhou West Road restaurant, this restaurant fairly authentic southern flavor, so that Xiao-shu in the hungry 24 hours after a meal to enjoy good oral.
Afternoon, five of us call a taxi to the Drepung Monastery, the temple a large scale, Sera is more than worth seeing, but because of lack of sleep and lack of oxygen, in the sinister sun and the cool breeze Qinglie, I faint faint Yu Shui, so simply on the steps of the temple, watching the beautiful blue sky, white clouds, rest quietly together. Came back from the Drepung Monastery, then to 8 Gallery Street, procurement, Guangzhaoguangzhuo a lot of souvenirs on the procurement, has been purchasing the dark. Gallery Street, and then in 8 to find a home near the Tibetan restaurant, actually found in possession of meals is not bad, there is no imagination, as not suited to, so come to Lhasa, Tibet but they must eat the meals.
Evening, Xiao-shu clamoring to see the national song and dance, but the auspicious day of the bar was full, the streets in inquiries where there is Langma hall, the result was not found, so I simply back to the hotel to sleep, Komago four of them to go clubbing until the middle of the night came back.
Author: willryun
