Tricycle across the wooded Norbulingka stopped languages and I use the same action space walk off slowly to avoid the recurrence of any violent reaction. Introduction to bow their heads to fumble for coins ready to pay. I began to look around the scenery, suddenly found the house began to obscure the distance, is wiped his face and sweat of the driver becomes sinister in appearance and shape of strange, you can see all is well like to spend inside the distorted filter of PHOTOSHOP mirror. Even worse than this, I can not see see anything, except not the front of a dark outside, and the blind there is no difference, I can not do anything but to freeze-frame the same stops there. After a few seconds, before the driver's voice sounded: "Are you all right?" At the same time, begin to reduce the effect of filters, and all will eventually have a vision in my sense. Front of the driver's confusion is a face, is made by a strained expression. I winked to the statement: "Also Laila!"
Yin said: "how little the same as no ah!"
She was referring to my mountain sickness symptoms. My kind of intermittent blindness in Tibet last time we had in the past the process, but also in the flight up occurs after the fourth day. As a result, all of the response categories, including the last time there was, and the last has not been, and books written, the book he never wrote, and I have啦!
Fortunately, many lice does not itch, have been so many responses, also no longer afraid of the. I still pulled calmly walked inside the museum were made towards Tibet. One afternoon, I'll see, I'll see. Words had to closely follow at my side, lest I go blind can not see the time, one hit a certain leader of the Tubo period of armor up.
Fly to Lhasa, our trip travel is the most horrible of SARS in early May began to plan. At that time, our friend had just heard about Tibet Atao very strict segregation policy is sadly no way to worry about re-up this year.
A Tao, when she advanced in her office where, with very soft and you speak Mandarin, you will not think of this man heart of hearts there will be such a crazy side. In 2002, she had 5 months to two years in Tibet, in particular, is the second, including the possession of the whole process from Shanghai, only 9 days, she even entered the Ali and spent three days on foot turning Gang Ren Bo Qi, really terrible. In 2003, A Tao ambitious plan is out of the Sichuan-Tibet into Qinghai, during a 7 days turn Namtso. However, this damn SARS!
Gray-headed earth to see her brain looks like, and I continued to console made to exhaust all of the words and logic to argue, to the summer time, Tibet will cancel all the quarantine measures, and this year certainly can do it up like a . Our lobby is so convincing, not only the confidence of A Tao finally revived, and even our own, finally decided to join up!
Later? Ate countless meals, printing revised countless times as long as several pages of the plan, and finally pulled out of a decent team, plan to go in August. By the end of July, I am proud to learn that Tibet has been relaxed SARS restrictions, they were all entered the collective procurement of equipment, stage, but I was informed that his long vacation in August to ask the prospects are very bleak. Some struggle, I made the decision two people in mid-July ahead of a separate proceeding, and strive to be able to turn Namco, it is doing to other brothers and sisters to play ex-stations.
July 18 to leave the house early in the morning flight in Chengdu, transfer interval of 2 hours, 15 o'clock, we have the glass through the bus and saw the Red Mountain on the high Potala Palace.
Underestimate the enemy thought for failure, which in our party's history, there have been a lesson in!
In the eight gallery school stay there, and the next room, Guangdong off bragging, went to the street to buy daily necessities, mountain sickness has given us the evening met with the color.
The process is probably as follows:
7 pm, in the restaurant drinking yak butter tea, proudly give them Faduanxiaoxi A Tao.
8:00, bought a thermos bottle to span 8 of buttered tea room on the third floor gallery school ready to enjoy some.
8:30, think, or peace points, lie down and rest better.
9:00 and began to feel the presence of the stomach.
9:30, first words, then I started a small spit.
10 points, made after the spat over Okay, I started to vomit large.
12 points, barely lay in bed and insists that listening to music, the bar across the road, what a bunch of people wasted no time in singing and shells lame guitar, gas ah!
12:30, the words to the porter knocked out Uncle Gallery to learn to open eight large iron gate, to let the streets take me to the hospital stopped.
1:00, sitting in the autonomous region where the First People's Hospital emergency rooms. That was five months ago, when I come to the hospital because of mountain sickness when you sat in a chair the same. Statement went five months ago to pay for medicine with a window.
1:30, saline drip, oxygen and continue to spit, spit ah ah spit spit!
5:00, saline finished hanging back, made the janitor uncle knocked out again to open the big iron gate 8 Gallery Studies.
8:00, hungry uncomfortable, but drink water or spit. I damned hard!
The situation can also be made would have been a frustrating night, I also started a blank stare.
Not quite, it, in the eight-room school corridors, I have two Venus, made his legs become soft, last came to Tibet has never been a headache and dizziness are two of us who appear. Only when we were lying in bed gasping for.
Know that I committed a disease, cell phone short message ringing off the hook home, the old man made Lord wants us to turn around and go home, A Tao desperately wants us to adhere to adhere to insist on.
These are two very different starting point and the requirements are the concern, but they are the same so that we moved.
One began to think back, then think about a 5000 Saturday flew to Lhasa, spit a night, Sunday and then out of 5500 (this time where to buy Shanghai - Chengdu, discounted airline tickets ah!) Fly go back, if really so, this weekend may be too lacking in their places啦!
Later, I apply again and again the stomach twice, the words of the gas re-breathe 2, we think, or at home right when he said, What kind of money, physical matter, and go back to forget.
Still later, back home, they do not want to become: I started to fever, not high, but enough to stick to SARS posts Gongga airport thermometer be seen, not to me on the plane.
9 pm, Zaiqu hospital, listening to the small Tibetan doctors advised, to open next door Shaoxing, Hangzhou, snack bar where people drink a bowl of porridge, That felt better. To Abdallah sat in front for a while, and then back to 8 Gallery science, did not go against what the FB, and replaced the opposite on the ground floor bathroom with a separate room to continue to sleep.
The response to such a powerful, totally contrary to our expectations. In retrospect, first, that they started out, I just flat there is life, I fight a full two weeks of life, we hardly plateau, also need a good rest, let alone directly on La Shanglai. Second, it is that some underestimate the enemy has. It was the last to pick, it was arranged hotel, this all have to rely on ourselves, we also elated run out and buy this drink that, naturally give us, especially me, to that learned my lesson.
Lhasa days Shuileyitian, we went to No. 20 in the morning finally can begin to do without forced breathing hum Jiji. Window to see the sun shining outside, we have two, as the Red Army left behind like the wounded and helped each other, called a tricycle to go towards Abdallah Square.
This became the next few days we used to, so long as to go out, always without hesitation to go towards Abdallah. Or do transfer to other places, or simply just sitting there.
First hit the opening hours of listening to the Potala Palace, especially the ticket time, and then across the square, walked towards Chakpori foot.
This is our first wish to repay. The last in Lhasa, because of the time, weather, arrangements, etc. for various reasons, we actually do not shoot the satisfaction of Abdallah had a panoramic view. Several years, each time in magazines, on-line see similar photos, I made a half-day always moan and groan. Chakpori the southwest corner of the hillside there is a small piece of ground, because the right angle, but also the high ground, it is the birth place of countless photographs Potala Palace. Today, finally were answered!
A snail's pace with a step to climb, and we put up the machine Kacha a pass. Goes on, but also sit on the ground slowly, relying on each other to see following a daze.
Abdallah Square and four years ago, compared become increasingly stylish and modern. MA roadside billboards or vertical, Jay elongated face was addressed to a certain company's SMS advertising, street, and a variety of off-road vehicles along with the flying, there is a Baltic Sail, there is a Buick Accord, as well as the Renault Scenic. Beijing East Road, east is a broad, high-rise buildings on both sides have been incessant, shops in rows take over. Yu Tuo Road, tree-lined back in 2002 was listed out in full chopped down, is now covered with a nondescript building with exposure of the pedestrian street, everywhere, hanging from designated tourist shops, tourist designated the flagship hotel, silhouette Daoshi little.
Afternoon we have for a long time in the bubble inside the Jokhang Temple to see the believers incense and kowtow to see the brigade Lama clapped his hands and debate the scriptures, look at pictures of high nose foreigner everywhere (with an estimate is a professional journalist, the first line well, but half a day before making a gesture, finished the Also take a small book in mind a lot). We also used to cover up to a good accent, and a cursed dirty stingy together in Chengdu, Shanghai people.
On the fourth day, that is, July 21, continues to be the morning of the Jokhang Temple, it is our desire to repay a second. Yes, that's good to look around inside the Jokhang Temple, from the inside out, top to bottom to look around.
And the Mainland, the regularity of the layout of the different temples, monasteries in Tibet is not very strict set type, floor hall staggered, winding corridors throughout the many halls to have a few re-roof, you can drill down a ladder to climb, the suddenly dark and cramped hall, suddenly Platform brilliant sunshine. Walking in the Jokhang Temple, as if in the yin and yang, two community shuttle back and forth between the six of transmigration. Inadvertently stood in front of the golden dome above, you can touch their hands and that iconic Deer, and Falun; walk walk, close to the ground from the little window to see into, the following is just across the hall, which is more than a few monks still chanting.
Introduction of the afternoon listening to a few friends, we decided to go to Tibet Museum.
Intermittent symptoms of blindness, when it is in museums, they began to appear on my body. And the last, like all of the past have come, then let him go!
Indeed, Tibet Museum is also worth a visit, of course, just the thought of people who have adapted to the plateau is so. People who visited the Shanghai Museum are all impressed him back to bar-shaped structure, Tibet Museum, basically along the lines of her designs, the floor of the hall were picked around the middle of a large empty courtyard arrangement, building a very structured, and very spacious .
The problem is that the design or construction, they did not copy along with escalators in Shanghai in the past. So, you have to climb to a layer. The two of us, walking the ground not a big issue, take the stairs, but also a living one by one effort. Usually, on a floor in the middle and at least take a rest after each break, I have to bring jerry-building designers and builders to mercilessly cursed a few words.
From the museum's next stop is Chakpori out of the mountain, again this is also the one we would like. After returning from Tibet since the last time that we have started to learn and the Potala Palace nearby Chakpori scenery, there are many.
Chakpori of the mountain, there is a LITHOGLYPHS. On the scale, of course, not as gantry Yungang, but the Dragon has long been a monument, but it was still alive scenery. Some people still continue to add new Buddha statues because the original has been continuously coated, the color of the bright long kept dripping. Beyond that, the is a carved through the workshops, there are several young stonemason chisels were sitting together in the Tibetan scriptures, before and after death, good and have not yet carved carved a good Lithographic piled a layer of another layer. While here, straight-line distance from the center of Lhasa, a few hundred meters, but with very few tourists, the air in addition to simmering scent of mulberry only Stele a wholly beyond voice, it is very quiet. They will only be a few people very simple Chinese, with a smile to share between us is also easier.
Nam Co is the this time we come to Tibet's most important destinations. The last time in Tibet, Namco has left us with a very, very good impression. In that high in the mountains, the snow-capped mountains surrounded by a vast, to have such a big one lake itself is a miracle. Also show us whether this lake to see her she is unfathomable blue. I still can not forget the words. However, Lhasa is 3700 meters above sea level, Nam Co is 4700 meters. The thought of even higher on the entire 1000 meters, I made all tremble of a calf. Had no choice but should first put aside the Nam Co. We have eight well-known gallery message board before the school a little note to look at and want to join as a partner to go with the right Tao What kind of place, note the role of the powerful over the world are either non-Ali, the Sichuan-Tibet do not, as well as move along riding a bicycle taking a trip. See me and the other made up a calf would shiver too.
We've been looking for among the donkeys and ducks had their own positioning, identify themselves as belonging to a class horse, a little money, just a little small amount of money the master; it is talking mood, only a small flavor of the main speakers. To use a modern words, that is, petty bourgeoisie a class. For the masochistic type of travel, and only distanced themselves from him. It seems that we are looking for A Tao described the driver took off on its own.
Search the minds of various types of information about Tibet, on condition that: a little landscape, climate comfort, can not be too far away from Lhasa.
And I made a snack bar at the foot of the Potala Palace where designated pulled sprinkle a little salt in bowl rice porridge, After much deliberation, it was only Bason wrong.
Bason wrong, landscape on the road through several phones, we finally Toinzhub Square in Abdallah met. He is exactly what I imagined Tibet drivers look like dark skin, nose and firm, his face is always a smile.
And Toinzhub sitting in the pavilion tea room, I made use of a very slow-Chinese asked him to Basongco how far, how long, how much money and so on. A Tao has told us that Toinzhub were good, but the car no, way back last year from Ali, one wheel on the fly. In addition, he was Chinese not, but the English language well, if the person he said, foreign language, then this guy can ancestor eight generations of things to tell you. What a pity! I made just the opposite, and you discuss the ancestors, we only have the ability to use the Chinese language.
Chat a few words down, we feel that his Chinese is not as bad Mody, at least very good hearing, and we say half, he will give the correct answers, the other half is probably a limited vocabulary, he will Yitai chin issued a "fertile -" the long sound understanding.
Finally, we asked him how your car is like? He also is very easy to "Wo -"! Tibetans are not very good at lying. And I made the right Toinzhub quite satisfied with the answer.
This newspaper's military intelligence Atao Panic!
5:00, days, or completely dark. 8 Gallery Science hapless uncle again in bleary-eyed look at the door to open iron gate, we heard a car off from the outside and then stop idling sound. Open the door, Toinzhub immediately went up, the quick and neat way to take over North Korea after the discharge of our package. I would like to pull the right side of the door on the train, but, what, two under, but still not opened. Toinzhub embarrassed smile and ran back in the car, from the driver's seat on the probe body, I opened the door from the inside.
To see if he was already very skilled movements, I know that the door of the problems, not a day for two days.
Departure. Through the dimly lit stage - rather, is constantly left out of the street behind the lights, instrument panel itself is the luminous display is almost negligible - I carefully observed the dashboard. Water temperature and oil pressure gauge pointer is also normal, but the maximum speed of the table on the Okanagan needle, stood motionless in the vertical down! And then ears to listen to the engine moving, I have not but sighed, looked back and made a right.
A Tao of the car seems to Toinzhub is some truth in the evaluation. A Tao was accused yesterday in the heart Cuoguai her.
In any case, the Mozhugongka road and primary encounter, when the sun golden on both sides of the rape fields are blooming everywhere, the sun a photo of heaven and earth Ju Dou brilliant one, also ignore the pain of struggling with the engine sounds a. I have also suddenly found is no longer intermittently blind!
From here, the plateau on the mountain sickness quietly my collection together, the beautiful scenery of the summer without reservation to give away. Blue sky mountain pastures, and postcards all the same. Climbed over the high ground Mila Mountain, elevation gradually decreased, but the scene even more beautiful, yes, yes beauty, abundant water and gas in southeastern Tibet where every inch of moisture a landscape. Dense vegetation on both sides of the mountain road, if not mountains towering, almost a replica of South Hills. Roads are along the right bank of Niyang forward and I have never seen such a statement river. The water is really blue, and sea, like blue, green, surrounded on both sides turned over the star point in the white waves flowing non-stop. In the valley, the Niyang sometimes divided into several shares, sometimes they come together, the river sandbar heart often one by one, I am surprised that the river is so gentle. South River also has many of the same sandbar, but because of the fluctuating water level, plants have no way to gain a foothold on the often bare sand pebbles; Niyang the water level may be the year There will be no change in her sand uniformly is green, covered with grass and shrubs, sand again if slightly larger, but also around the tree to grow Yanzhuohean, like a stroll in a circle surrounded necklace.
We let Toinzhub parking, walking down the road ran to the river, let the clear blue lick wet our hands. Flood land is covered with flowers, probably feeding in the river too good, probably the sun moist to very good, probably there are other reasons, these wildflowers are extremely gorgeous, flowers scattered high and low, laying the floor. We had to take desperate step, and good foot down some as little as possible. Looked back at the river and road on both sides of the flowers are completely submerged, can not see the road embankment, the occasional passing vehicle, as in the middle of the display Phi wave chop waves.
Let We are very pleased that this day trip all the roads are very good, whether it is a trunk 318 or from the slip road leading to Bason wrong. Toinzhub Paozhaopaozhao also happy together, mounted a dirty cassette, humming a minor to begin run faster and faster. I said, do not hurry, slowly better. This guy also is the issue of his signature style of "Wo -" and then, and then continues to accelerate.
We finally understand a little bit. This guy's "Wo -" not our "oh" or "Oh," he said each time so, in fact, are simply not understand what we mean! This "Wo -", with a noncommittal answer, might as well say it is completely Budongzhuangdong!
Hey, shame, the words of the four years, when only 59 hours, God knows how she graduated. For me, simply would not take the exam. Now we, and such a husband has to stay together, is really enough to choke.
I began to find English words to Souchangguadu and his exchange, starting with the word of practical significance, such as "STOP", "SLOW" the beginning, and then the lives of ordinary language, and gradually developed phrases and sentences, for example, "DO U HUNGRY?" , "WE NEED REST" or something. Toinzhub is also painfully slow to use the phrase that we retaliate. Fortunately, the dog left has always been afraid of disgrace, what say, can be used in English in English, she did not know in Chinese is really no way to not understand the plus sign on the English and Chinese onomatopoeia and use, it has also had quite a lively conversation, a typical section of recalls the dialogue is as follows:
Toinzhub: IN TIBET, WE DO NOT EAT MEET.
Dogs left: WHY?
Dhondup: BECAUSE MEET IS PIG.WE DO NOT LIKE PIG AND HORSE.PIG IS TOO DARTY, HORSE IS OUR FRIEND. WE MEET YAK.BUT NOW, SOMEONE WHO LIVE IN LASA SALE THE YAK IS NOT THE TRUE YAK.
Dogs left: AND WHAT IS IT?
Toinzhub: DONKEY.
Dogs left: I DON'T KONWING.
Toinzhub: O, I CANT KNOW THE CHINESE NAME OF DONKEY.
Dogs left: SHEEP?
Toinzhub: NO.
Dogs left: HORSE?
Toinzhub: NO.
... ...
Finally, the dog left Yipaitaitui, open mouth call and send a voice to animals. Toinzhub immediately cried out: YES! IS IT!
I also cried out: OK!
Introduction laughed off their feet in the back seat, I am a straight face to tell Toinzhub: DONKEY, IN CHINESE, WE CALL IT "donkey."
At 2 pm, we went to the Bason wrong.
In the scenic restaurant, Toinzhub looking menu, hesitated for a long time, but also thought, carefully watched sitting across the table I said, MAYBE, egg noodles?
OK! Egg noodles! Then I thought, looked carefully made, let?
Made by looking through the eyes, are egg noodles bar!
The reason why should there be such a story is all the dishes here, the price points, three of us far more than the psychological price. Egg noodles are the cheapest things above, and 15 a bowl. As for the quality and quantity, Well, if a small restaurant in Shanghai, Which came, so I dare to three bowl, even if it is 5 dollars, no, 3 money, hum, I have to him good-looking!
This is what we eat any place in China, the most expensive ever, the most difficult to eat, the least amount of egg noodles. This ghost Scenic Area!
Basongco the practice had been isolated, the island's Living Buddha system, self-contained, but a female Buddha. In the present tourism development in front of the rolling tide, "isolated" is the word had long been separated out. Several female monks sitting under a tree to tree as the center of a circle, 2 meters radius, surrounded by a full half-circle black and white dog's head is constantly in large red and blue vest according to their relative, they still was no one to chat to eat snacks.
The back of the island there were very few shore a few large stones and a half in the water, surrounded by tree covered with the wind horse flag. Toinzhub a people are standing tiptoe on a rock hard to hang his flag to see our very embarrassed smile, he has to know that we do not profess any religion. However, we are accustomed to give for someone else's beliefs are fully respected and I made at the same time reach out to him in a flag to help one way or another. Toinzhub was very grateful, nodding lien 3Q3Q. Then, and we chatted about Basongco story.
Bason wrong, though not the holy lake, but also has her mysterious place, said to have dark hole has been pass to the northern Tibet, Namco. Toinzhub than painted said that, there have been slip down into the yak herders Bason wrong, and that cattle not see this, then actually spewing out from Namco. Tibet is one such place, everywhere, can grow out of the mountain spirits come, so I just smiled and listened to his words the story finished, do not ask that spent yak after this Five, six kilometers of travel in the future is alive or dead , pastoralists is how to find. Toinzhub said, now is full of flowers, is the best season in Tibet, but not in terms of Bason wrong. Because ALL THE YEAR, Basongco all the trees are green, where in April is the most beautiful, then, lakeside hill snow will be very low, white snow from the top has been down to the green forests and lakes around the central green.
Most of the visitors at night would be to live in the town of a few dozen kilometers away, 81 to go 45 points after the person who lessened down. Two trackers have stopped swinging left the raft on the lake, quietly sitting smoking. I made half-lying on the shore, watching the sun little by little ramp down, in a very short very short of water vapor in the near and far through the hills, but also in the Boat Tracker shadow on the package on the ring of bright halo.
Although the simple house, the noise effect is bad, the voices of the next room, mahjong fork can pass without any barrier to come, we are still a very good sleep. Woke up when the outside has been bright. Ran outside the house and saw the hills behind the eastern sky a Jinliang (Of course, I did not identify the direction of talent, so they should say so, it is the east-Liang 1), more good weather! Unfortunately, hotels built in the woods behind can not see dawn in the Bason wrong. I came back quickly took the camera coming out of everywhere to find high ground.
Is being looked around, I suddenly heard a man and a woman shouted dialogue, Mother looked, one guy was holding a large metal framework tower above the barrel in aiming, a woman has to go down the ladder to climb up to half of it to climb it moving, and working with the men say no Chaochao climbed above what a good-looking.
My eyes light up immediately with the concerned tone of voice, and she said be careful ah, no bar on the down. When she was the way he is also like climbing on the fly Beizhao Bao.
Basongco lower elevation than Lhasa, a little care in the dense forests, the micro-climate was much stronger than in Lhasa, I felt better and has. Needless to say well above the landscape, but the sun has just leaping out of the mountains, shining in Naoteru over, Backlight have no way to get pictures done. First up guy proudly advised me, brother, you are up late啦, to early for. At 6 o'clock I was also the black days when will come up.
Well, what a great! I had looked at him bitterly to the back of revenue equipment. According to shoot, at least I can look down to overlooking the earth!
Under the accommodation areas and more people up. Statement also restored a lot of heart saw her head and two shoulders in the room and outdoor faucets come between the Ben Ben in the past, rare Wow Wow desperately thin wash two days ago did not seem to make good the shortfall in washing fill the same back.
More than nine minutes after the visitors again after another over again. And Toinzhub discuss, if you want to return to the outskirts of Lhasa before dark, almost necessary to start at 10 o'clock. That's good, yesterday's dinner, the name also known as egg noodles, you know, we have no other choice. 10 points to go, we can escape the third meal of egg noodles.
We have Basongco biggest mistake is to live in a scenic area along Toinzhub. To this day, after morning I climb, it was found far from the scenic road up. Continue to far down, that is, an equally ordinary village built near the lake, and tourism development irrelevant. If you go there, want to come, perhaps the same scenery, the price of egg surface of the bar is not the case.
Basongco is a dammed lake, and then down into a river on the river, into the Nigerian foreign exchange. Niyang met again and really feel relaxed and happy, I am desperately in a notebook to record the mileage, nice scenery, made again and again in the three places called parking, pulled down my camera, ran to the end, simply Dondrup centering sleep in the car, we are down to the flood side found a flat places to lie down and narrowing his.
Walked, Toinzhub car finally disappointing, and coughing and spitting the beginning of the nose somehow screw anchor. Open open, the car made a sudden impulse, and then idling stability do not live, we must Meng stepped on the accelerator in order to bite to eat bite to eat to run two steps, and then insist on a moment, "network rolling rolling rolling" manner, it irrevocably extinguished the fire.
Toinzhub smiled, wear gloves, pick up the wrenches and screwdrivers vehicle on the go. The first bad time, I go on a three decent places to see if something can help busy.
I was back there has opened a motorcycle 15 years of age, hey, there are also such problems. The end, I did not understand the reason for failure in the end what is anyway a bad time in the halfway, as long as the carburetor and then removed to Slice and Dice Zhuangshang Qu, generally on the end of the story.
However, repairing a car actually is true Toinzhub! Watch this kid can be demolished are split, and made a ground part, I muttered, Tai Ling uninformed. When he pulled instrument the very start, and I asked WHAT TROUBLE? This guy pretty honest Dao Shi: I DON'T KNOW.
Jue Dao! Statement also laughing raucously, the original in the world like a dog who left such a repair chaos there ah!
The second, third stall, I will no longer matter to him, and pulled a statement ran down the road to take pictures.
Lunch will be gongbo'gyamda county resolved seen the price on the menu, three open belly meat to eat something, eat a mouthful of shiny, perfectly satisfied to eat, forget to eat everything, eat the end, got up and go, boss quickly catch up, fed , money, money not to do!
Here is sunny, and have a Mira Yamaguchi, immediately it began to hail, the next mountain to get, but also turn into a downpour. Back to Lhasa before dark, the time a little tightening. In fact, we are not afraid of night the road is mainly to know the two of us like to take photographs, Toinzhub told us in Lhasa on a small hill south bank can be Yaokan Lhasa city, and that the place and the Potala Palace, the distant relative, it is photography a good place. Toinzhub presumably to ensure that we can photograph the sunset under the Abdallah, has picked up speed in the rain. Back to gongbo'gyamda that large areas of oilseed rape fields, we finally out of the rain area, behind the dark clouds remained low, it is blue sky overhead, and then in front of the direction of Lhasa, clouds bright sun gushing fire come from the clouds. We are ecstatic, and regardless of Lhasa Lhasa is not, and stop taking pictures constantly.
In the end, so we went to Lhasa when the bridge, dusk had completely enveloped the city, distant mountains have been down to dim. Potala Palace, there is a little light in the dark mountains in the Yingyingchuochao background, appeared calm and tranquil.
On the begging on the begging, beggars to Tibet may be one of the highest density of the country, almost the first few months can be compared to Shanghai, Nanjing Road beggar. Tibet's begging is their culture among a specific phenomenon, and I made twice in Lhasa, are very carefully observed beggars, I think, a careful one, said:
Under normal circumstances, the standard beggars can successfully get money, and practice is a dime a paper currency, they are absolutely honest day's proceeds will be all the grip in their hands and a pile of hair ticket, not as we have Shanghai familiar with it, the bowl is always a lot more than a few heads. If there is no change for those who give alms will come up with great tickets to other beggars Keep the change. This process both sides, very frankly and nature. This situation, in other places we have never seen. If you catch from a sociological point of view, I think that, perhaps because the natural conditions in pastoral areas of Tibet was quite poor, it may snow down in a few days later, one will have nothing on to the destitute pastoralists, in addition to begging will not survive. Similarly, this year may be Chang San floods, John Doe give you the money, next year is a John Doe to the Zhang San begging. Therefore, begging and charity as the Tibetan people and mutual support, solidarity is a special way, giving and receiving, are normal, it should be, and the status of the two sides are equal.
In addition, there is a reason to support my assessment, that is, begging the standard, including a five-body voted to go to Lhasa by the representative of the giver man-made - they generally do not take the initiative to begging, but passers-by of the charity for a living - do not refuse in kind, food and clothing, to the Take. This can also explain that this is their survival, rather than the way of life.
Therefore, in Shanghai, I never give beggars money. They are professional, I have personally seen the coin sit for 24-way to get off Huaihai Road, and then went to Parkson Plaza in front of women began to work in Anhui Province, but also saw off work for a clean line of the first drilling a small restaurant chicken the old man. Tibet, Tibetan beggars so much a shame, Mo better to admit that the mainland in order to beg for food as a career Han group is our sorrow.
With regard to beggars, I still have things to say. 99 years go when the feeling of Lhasa, the Tibetan people in general do not refuse to give money, but this time to go, we have seen a lot of Lhasa residents have snapped the situation does not give money. We have in accordance with custom, at the entrance to the beggar a corner of the Jokhang Temple, and surprise each other in fluent Mandarin answer our questions, one of the bar to Zhang. At the hotel entrance, you can also see such a scene, an adult is far from standing, a few ten-year-old villain holds up passers-thigh money. Such a scenario, we are not unfamiliar.
I am really ashamed. Han culture, the most despicable aspect is constantly polluting the purity of the Tibetan.
Lhasa City, eight science and Namco Gallery Lhasa city, is a manufacturing lazy place.
Although Beijing Road and Jiangsu Road in mutual competition and Vietnam made more width, but the Lhasa could still provide a sufficient number of places for people to hypocritical. The next few days, we once again had played in Lhasa duplication lazy day.
Do not pursue anything with spots, what are the characteristics that we got into the old city teahouses, sitting in a half-day, and drink sweet tea mixed with the Tibetans to study next door to the Buddhist monks fed enlightenment Reading; we Budalade central summer sun Lane sat back to back, and a graduate student in Guangdong to chat; we dabble in the Lhasa river; we rented a bicycle, only carrying a water bottle and a camera, run around everywhere in the streets of Lhasa.
Write here, I really can not self-made, so I stopped the keyboard, so I went to a cup of tea, close your eyes to the memories to rely on for a while bar. It has been summed up in Lhasa beauty, because in this city, it is easy to feel the existence of heaven. Heaven, perhaps in Abdallah's golden dome, or is the Jokhang Temple is not extinguished before the long-burning butter lamps, also may be gathered from the Tibetans everywhere openly friendly smile. Heaven is in our hearts.
8 Corridor study is FIT hotels in Lhasa, one of the most famous.
99 years, we have for the first time up, when eight corridors are networking and learning "LONGEY PLANT" on the soar Unfortunately, a warm host arranged us into the autonomous regional government guest house. 4 years later, eight auspicious day, etc. rising star in the school corridors Under the pressure a bit old-state has grown substantially, becoming the vicinity of Beijing East Road, only a few FIT hotels have availability of a.
Xu mother charm still exist. In the eight gallery school yard, the steady stream of various donkeys were.往往是两个极端，要么身负大型登山包，全套肮脏不堪的冲锋行头，两眼放光地谈论目标地域；要么，在十几度的清早或者半夜，穿着吊带衫踢着拖鞋坐在楼上走道的靠椅上轻松无比地谈论自己到过的最高高度，5000米是不能算谈资的，起码六、七千，八、九千的应该也有不少吧。
我和言的没有那么好的资本，一般情况下都是站在那里，诚惶诚恐地点着头，听别人给我们得不得得不得地讲解，初上高原都要注意点什么，拉萨都有哪些地方应该去的。
每天早上，我总是会在5点钟的时候醒来，看看窗外淅淅沥沥的夜雨，然后回过身继续睡觉。 7点钟，天空开始变亮，雨越下越小，最后停止。我站在窗子前面，看着早起的服务员开始抱着大脸盆在院子里洗床单，然后把言叫醒开始讨论今天我们到哪里去逛。拖法拖法到8点半，两个人勾着手儿，踩着八廊学湿漉漉的地面，迎着初生的太阳出门啦。
这其实是我们还了的又一个心愿，拉萨的夜雨和阳光。 99年上来的时候，不知道是因为季节还是其他什么原因，拉萨这两样最著名的天候都没有遇到，天始终半阴半云的。没有夜雨，没机会看清晨泛着亮光的八角街，没机会呼吸清爽的空气；没有刺目的阳光，照片上的颜色都是捂的，我们呆了两个礼拜居然还是雪白粉嫩的。
佛爷过于积极地满足我们的还愿想法。阳光天天夺目耀眼，几天一过我们两个人的皮肤马上就变了颜色。我和言寻找着各种遮阳的帽子头巾把自己包起来。喇嘛有一种簸箕式样的帽子很不错，簸箕开口的地方很长，正好遮太阳，而且帽子在头上前后可以转方向戴，太阳在哪边，就转到那边。看得我们好不眼谗。
乐不思蜀，乐不思蜀！可是，还有纳木错呢。
我曾经下过狠心，这次就是反应地不行了，无论如何冒险，也要拼到那根拉山口再看一眼她。从巴松错回来，虽然不吐不拉了，但我们自认体力透支厉害，也就是能勉强应付拉萨的高度而已。如果还要按原来计划转湖，一旦到湖背面的时候再有个什么三长两短，连救都没有人救。那就只有放弃了，把计划改成只在湖边过一两个晚上，又改成当天来回。
车就是顿珠的车吧。反正我们已经关照过让他抓紧时间把车子修修好，而且两次在八角街上活捉到正在闲逛的顿珠，他都肯定地回答我们说；NO PROBLOME！
我们开始在各个留言板看别人的条子，也自己贴条子招人。谈来谈去，差距颇大。
拉萨的驴子们有一个传统——我都不知道这到底应该算是优良传统或者这个传统已经有了陋习的影子——就是无限制地省钱。如果说都去过哪些驴子们炫耀自己的资历首先是比较总的来说，艰苦朴素应该是好事情，但是如果按照他们的理想状态做法，7、8个人挤在一辆越野车里出远门（吓得我和言都不敢透露我们去巴松错就两个人包了一辆车，还不让人骂死！），舒适与否先不谈，起码对自己和别人的生命不算太负责任。还有网上漫天飞扬的各种逃票功略，写的人、用的人都乐此不疲。真奇怪为什么在驴界，居然可以把逃票这样的行为当做好事开展宣传呢？
上面这段评论只对事不对人啊！我和言印象最深刻的是一个广东小女孩，她看了我们的条子发短消息来。在八廊学对面的小面店里见面，她一边哧溜哧溜地用可怕的速度消灭一碗辣肉面，一边还可以我们说话。看上去就是19、20岁的样子，小小瘦瘦的，一个人来西藏，四处和人结帮，刚刚从珠峰回来。搭车搭伙到处揩油，据说来回一个多礼拜，一共才用掉200多块钱。可真有本事。
最后我们找到了两个旅伴，一个是有着漆黑眼圈的成都女娃，自称花花，一个是在校的研究生，我们计划28日半夜出发，半夜回来。
7月27日，何喜出场何喜打通我的电话的时候，我和言正在拉萨的某一个饭店内和人虚情假意地和人推杯换盏。
说是虚情假意，并没有任何一点的贬义。事实上这几个朋友都曾经给过我们莫大的帮助，如果没有他们，四年之前我们第一次来西藏，根本就不可能那样愉快，几年来就不会把西藏两个字成天挂在嘴边。这第二次，也根本就不会成行。
之所以是虚情假意，仅仅是指推杯换盏本身。这几个朋友还是一如既往地善解人意，知道我们，特别是我，这次又没有逃过高原反应的折磨，劝酒非常热烈，但一口喝多少完全随意，五个人从头到尾才消灭掉了仅仅一瓶“拉萨”。
何喜的电话，正响在这啤酒瓶子空到一半的时候。
他自我介绍是内地驾驶员，正准备这两天空车走青藏线下去，看到了我和言贴在亚宾馆留言牌上寻找搭车的条子。他愿意带上我们，大家是不是就见个面。
还是高山反应的问题，我和言已经决定从纳木错回来后就飞离西藏回家休息去。挑的是最近的拉萨—西安—上海线路。就在白天，刚刚买好了日去西安的飞机票。
何喜听起来非常失望，我安慰他，不要紧，出去的空车少，你肯定还能找到其他人的。
挂了电话，我把情况向言和桌子上的其他朋友讲了情况，讲着讲着忽然自己心里一动，后悔拒绝他太快了一点。言的第一反应是说：机会还是不错么。
朋友们则马上直截了当地劝我们，这个机会是难得的，一般这样的车开价不会很高，值得去和他谈谈。
吃过饭，电话又响起来了。何喜看起来也不愿意放弃我们这个机会，很诚恳地劝我们说，青藏线的风景是很美丽的，你们别不相信。我不禁窃喜，和言一眨眼睛，拖着声音说，哦，是嘛，可以考虑么，要么这样吧，过半小时你到八廊学房间来找我们聊聊。
拉萨的朋友们把我们送回旅馆，我和言简单商量了一下怎么对付这司机的口径，时间一到，何喜非常准时地来了。
和我们想象的西北汉子的模样不同，他中等身高，中等肤色，胖瘦也是中等，穿着藏青的夹克和裤子，T恤领子的扣子全部扣着，皮鞋虽然不亮但是也不沾泥，手里拿一个半新的皮夹包。他说话声音不高，普通话有一点西北口音,听上去很舒服。面试通过！
然后应该开始谈判具体细节了，没想到他居然从包里拿出一叠照片出来，一张一张地给我们介绍这是唐古拉山口，这是昆仑山口，这是青海湖，哦，青海湖我们也经过的，来的时候，油菜花开得真好啊，你们真应该去看看。他顿了一下，又和我们说，你们机票也买好了？其实还是坐车出去好，能看到许多的风景……
我和言不仅对笑起来，连忙打断他要努力给我们回忆一路风景的企图：没关系，小何，青藏线我们还是知道一点的。还是讲讲我们怎么个算法吧。
他是兰州人，直接从拉萨回兰州，全程1000块，是全部费用，油钱、买路钱、他个人的住宿吃饭都包括在里面，而且到兰州再一次付清。
Hei hei.我和言用力压抑自出拣了便宜的得意心情，按照事先商量的计划，开始和他谈起如何处理我们的机票问题来。很明显，何喜并不太了解拉萨的行情。通常情况下，要走青藏线搭车，进藏的机会多，要在拉萨找并不容易，而何喜关于拉萨到兰州的开价还远远低于当地司机拉萨到格尔木的水平来。
何喜也考虑过这个问题，看起来他还担心我们会变卦，说，要么这样吧，你们把机票给我，我就按照退票的标准先把钱给你们，就当我们相互之间有个抵押，明天我先去把票退了，然后出发。
我和言大喜过望，这完全就是我们自己设想的方案，没想到大家想到一起去了。这样最好，都没有反悔的机会，那就没有什么再要谈的了，约好明天晚上等我们从纳木错回来再联系后天具体出发的时间。
我送何喜出门。顺便看了看他的车子。甘A牌照的黑色桑塔纳2000，非常干净，还是新款尾灯的，车子旧不到哪里去。真是一切都很顺利。
突然的出发和离开早上四点，当然，照例又要去敲醒我们亲爱的看门大叔。我都记不清这是第几次了，真担心他会不高兴。
天下着小雨，顿珠也刚到。我们顺着北京路，夜色前的布达拉掠过，接上花花和。一切都顺利，我开始想象纳木错的黎明是什么样子的了。
但是，还没有出市区，顿珠的车又开始出毛病了。他看看正在看着他的言和我，一脸尴尬地下车又去鼓捣起来。
我和言只好硬着头皮向后排两个解释，这个毛病不要紧，我们已经遇上几次了，两位点头说，啊，好好，对对。 5分钟之后，我发现顿珠还掀着发动机盖子不出来，只好下车问他：“big trouble?”这家伙哼哼哈哈地不回答。 10分钟之后，我发现他有些急了，把化油器大卸八块之后还到处乱拆，并且把手都弄破了。
现在轮到我们急了，一则再修下去，我们就要起大早赶晚集，二则今天车子这个样子好象是不妙，要是在外面再抛掉，那就麻烦了。等到半个小时的时候，花花他们也等不住了，我们四个商量下来，取消今天的计划吧。
顿珠见我们背上大小包裹，挨个下车，只好上来拼命讲：I am sorry, I am sorry，还摸出钱来给拉我们回去的出租。看他那个紧张样子，我们还能说什么。
再把花花送回宾馆，我们自己又回八廊学，还只有5点多！我们站在铁门外面——敲门。
哐哐哐，哐哐哐！
以后不管跑到哪里打工，可千万记住，千万不能到八廊学来值夜班看大门啊！
我和言商量，既然这样，干脆直接让何喜把我们拉上纳木错，然后不回拉萨，直接走。这样可以今天就走，晚上住羊八井，明天去纳木错也不用那么赶了。
赶快理行李，等到天亮，打电话和何喜联系，他也愿意今天就走。于是分工，他送言去退机票，我去买藏刀。回八廊学，再和顿珠联系。他坐了车来把我们留给阿涛她们的行李拿走，继续不断地I AM SORRY。
SORRY SORRY！早知道SORRY，前两天没事就不要乱逛，爽爽气气去把车修好不好么！我和言想起了阿涛的忠告。
中午的时候，何喜来陪我们退房扛行李，然后跑到拉百买了水和点心，吃了饭，就直接走了。
再一次经过布达拉前面，我和言仍旧习惯性地朝她注视着。
等到出了市区，我们才突然回想起来，这不仅仅是出发，而是离开了。
最后的高山反应我们和何喜天南海北地说话，我依然坐在副驾驶位置上，一边从说话里琢磨他的人，一边偷偷注意他的车技。要和一个陌生人在完全陌生的环境共处几天，总是多留一个心眼比较好。
何喜开车很稳，就是胆子小了些，路上看到只有拳头大小的石头也一定要绕过去，我估计他从前一定拖过底，而且拖得很惨。他人也不错，尤其是我听他有些动情地说到自己在部队里养的狗如何被人杀了吃的时候，完全放下了心来。
拉萨到羊八井公路好得很。青山依依，田野偎偎，在这样的路上开车，真是美妙的享受。言得意扬扬地从包里拿出盘磁带来，那是她早上退机票的时候赶快跑去买的，在高原上奔驰，听着喜欢的音乐，啊，这个是她长久以来的白日梦。
开心伐？我问她。
高原干燥的气候早已经让言的嘴唇布满了小伤口，使“笑”这个表情成为一种痛苦。言只好鼓起腮上的肉，困难地撅起上唇，冲我发出嘿嘿的声音来。
把磁带轻轻一推，水木年华在卡座里悠悠地唱起来。
两个散热塔依旧在念青唐古拉跟前呼呼冒着热气，但是，熟悉的景物也仅此而已，羊八井和记忆中的大不一样了。地热游泳池原来暴露在旷野里干巴巴的，现在周围造了一圈的餐厅、客房，围了一圈等着我们去骑马的藏民。池子里人声鼎沸。
我和言走了几步，立刻感觉到心跳和呼吸的存在。看了资料才发现，羊八井也有4300米高。我们不敢乱说乱动了，草草吃过晚饭回房间休息。
站在院子里可以看得很远。高原的天气就是这样，虽然头顶的天还非常地亮堂，阳光在白云中间斜射下来，但四周的远方还有几块厚重的低云，几根灰色的雾气把这些云彩和地面连接起来，那里就是在下雨。再看北边，以巨大的念青唐古拉山体为界，山北边的天空都是阴沉沉的。
八廊学里曾经有个福建人说，纳木错如果没有阳光直射，风景一定会大打折扣。
纳木错就在山的那边。
我们的女神和所有的中国西部司机一样，早起对何喜完全不是什么困难的事情。当我和言推开房门的时候，就听见漆黑的夜色里已经飘着2000型怠速那熟悉的声音。走过去，何喜正弯着腰在整理后备箱，里面的小灯显得格外明亮。
碰到我们这样喜欢大清早走人的宾馆，服务员总是特别倒霉，她被我们叫出来，眯缝着满是眼屎的眼睛，顶着一头乱烘烘的长头发，叽里咕噜退回了押金。我们立刻出发了。
西藏的早上4点，也就是上海的刚过半夜。青藏公路完全没有其他车辆，借着远光灯，我和言依稀辨别着两边应该是熟悉的风景，5点刚过，当雄的地名就出现在公路边的标志牌上。
当雄的变化更让人吃惊。 99年只有几排平房的小县城，今天已经有了不少的二、三层楼房，虽然夜深人静，但是马路边堆满的施工机械和建筑材料，明白无误地显示出当雄的宁静，早已和其他地方一样，只能存在于夜里了。
在镇子中心拐进左边的岔路，从东北转向西南，就是前往纳木错的最后60公里。以前从这里开始就只有便道，我们曾经走错过很远一段。但是现在是标准的公路，高大的蓝色指路牌树在路边：纳木错公里。
藏历羊年，是藏族习俗中转纳木错最好的年份。当雄县专门把这条路好好修了一下，还大张旗鼓宣传了一通，摆出要在2003年好好搞一搞大的架势。没想到被这非典闹了，整个计划草草收场，可惜了！但是我心里一直有个想法，就是因为非典而大大减少游人，不知道对于纳木错来说，究竟是不幸，还是幸运。
虽然是新修的公路，但到处是坑坑凹凹。海拔早已经超过4000，2000型有点吃力了，何喜保持着2档，不断向上。
99年来的时候，我们一车人谁也没走过这条路。那时侯也来纳木错的人也很少，一路上几乎没有见到车辆，大家都不知道走得是对是错，也不知道那边的风景到底是什么，那是一种充满了悬念的期待。今天，我们三个都是第二次来，悬念早已经不存在，只希望早点到，首要的目标当然是那根拉山口，遥望纳木错的地方，这是一种焦急的盼望。
公路在山谷里蜿蜒，在每一个地形稍微有起伏的地方，我们都希望是山口到了，但是都不是，越过一个土坡又是一个。天空稍微有一点点的亮意，我们经过一户在路边扎营的牧民，帐篷里已经冒出了浓浓的炊烟。我们正在惊异他们会扎营在这么高的地方。一回头，前方已经地形开阔，原来他们就宿营在那根拉边上。
何喜把车靠边停好，我和言下车向前走去。
纳木错，整整50个月以后，我们终于又来了！
即便是第二次来，纳木错给我们的震撼依然是无与伦比的。太阳还没有升起，我们甚至担心今天有没有阳光，因为头顶布满了铅灰色的浓重阴云。现在，湖水的确不是晶莹透亮，而是一种不知深浅的淡淡蓝色，湖面异常平静，在遥远的山颠之间有这样一幅巨大的水体，显出一种能够包容一切的安详。
我突然发现，湖边有一片地方是金黄金黄的。我指给言看，正奇怪在这么高的地方怎么还会种得出油菜花，言却一把拉住我：那是太阳！
Really!是太阳！正在从东边的山脉上冉冉升起！
山口依然冷风凛冽，太阳并不能照过来，但是我们知道，云已经破开了。阳光透过山峰的空隙，照射在湖边，把草地照亮。那块明亮越来越大，太阳越来越高，等我们冲下山口向着湖边飞奔的时候，一个转弯，我们也进入了太阳的直射范围，到处阳光明媚。 In the increasingly bright sky, the grass, rocks, there are translucent, Namco, everything becomes colorful, flashing up glory.纳木错，我们的女神，我们真的回来了。
我写到这里就卡住了，再往下，我们在纳木错的情况，我试了几遍，都没有能够写出来。因为纳木错在我们心中无与伦比的地位，使我总是担心自己写不好；因为一年以后，有关的具体细节种种早已经彻底化开，只剩下种种美好的感觉，让我们无从下笔。
其实那天是有一点故事的。穿过雾气，我们越接近湖边，阳光就越灿烂，回头一看，一朵朵的白云横亘在山间的路上，自己就是从云里出来。在湖边，我和一个牧民的孩子比赛扔石头，他用了神奇的投石器，非常非常轻易让狗剩趣居亚军。我们还遇到了在湖边沙洲上挖掘不知道什么东西的一老一小两个藏民，小一点的是个小糨糊，谗着我们要买他那奇怪的出产，还问我们从哪里来，叫什么。那老一点的汉语不好，却会翘着神气的八字胡拿腔拿调摆泊司给我们拍照，聊到最后，两个人抓起一把又一把的奇怪出产一定要送给我们。
何喜把车子直接停在湖边，下车以后心情激动地团团转了好几圈，终于按奈不住，把自己脱得赤条条地跳进湖中游起泳来，刹那间引了一大帮藏民上来围观。
我和言还是和上一次一样，在纳木错女神的关心和爱护下，绝对神气活现，走跑跳唱，一些正常毫无反应。
On this day has always been the most wonderful thing is that Namco Huanlai sun. Yesterday's haze has not faded, and today is obviously cloudy weather, the lake has always been on top of it is pure and transparent blue sky, clouds can only be far above the snow-capped mountains around the outside would not approach the half-step.轻轻的浪花在浅滩上舔来舔去，几只海鸥鸣叫着在水中捉鱼。
我们远离了已经成为景点的扎西半岛，沿着湖岸朝西开去，转过一个弯，在湖边围坐着定下心来吃东西，然后铺开装具半躺在那里，在湖天一色的面前，让暖暖的阳光慢慢地抚摸自己。
这是我们这次来西藏，最大的心愿和最最盼望做的事情。
那一刻，我无比地幸福和失落。
四千里路云和山之离开西藏从拉萨到兰州，一共是2300公里路。扣除拉萨到纳木错的200多公里，我们还剩下4000里路要赶。从当雄，我们就回到了青藏公路上，要从这里一直向北了。
青藏路一直向极远的地方，笔直地通向天边和云端。
我们在黑色的路面上飞驰，我们在尘土漫天的便道上挣扎，我们在广袤的藏北草原上飞驰，我们掠过布满牛羊的山坡。
我们的轿车乌黑锃亮，我们的轿车全身土色，我们的轿车呷吱做响。
第一站是那曲。本来是想在那曲好好调整一下，但是一进镇子，我和言就吃惊地瞪大了眼睛缩在车子里。
当年《终结者》拍摄核战以后现实世界的恐怖场面，如果找到这个地方来，一定可以省下一大笔布景费用的。将黑不黑的天气里，只有星星点点几盏灯光。整个街道完全笼罩在建筑工地和来往车辆扬起的漫天尘土之中。透过烟雾，到处是建造到一半或者拆除到一半的建筑，无一例外地象是大战之后的废墟。路口杂乱无章，所有的车辆和行人都是蓬头垢面，横七竖八。
何喜下去加油，我和言把所有的车窗都摇紧，生怕灰尘或者谁知道是什么其他的东西闯进车子里来。加满油，何喜也逃一样地跳进汽车，飞快地朝前开去。
我们在据说是最好的那曲宾馆找到了房间。那曲因为是离青藏线中点最近的大镇子，大多数不在一天内走完格尔木—拉萨的旅客，只能选择这里过夜。垄断，就容易出一些店大欺客的味道了。宾馆价钱不便宜，可是房间、公用盥洗室的陈设、格局，总让我想起《陈奂生进城》里的场景来。街上的饭店不少，随便一个菜都要四五十块，面条？ No!
幸亏为了在纳木错好好腐败，我们买过不少吃的，包里面还有一些存货，三个人均分分。何喜也真饿了，再不象在湖边那样假惺惺地推让，接过火腿肠就大嚼起来。
30日凌晨，我们在漆黑中出发。
这天没有放晴，天亮以后，依然是阴云密布的。
路两边的草场越来越显得贫瘠，打开车窗，气温越来越低。公路笔直地穿过一大片湿地，路基下面就是沼泽和半漂浮草甸。我们下车拍照，公路的尽头，横亘着很长很长的一座山脉，从左边极远处延伸过来，消失到右边极远处，占据了我们前方整整180度的视角。和大多数西藏的山一样，山势平缓，绝对高度应该不很高。底下和公路相连的部分是青灰色的，上部是一片灰白，山上一定在下雪。没有一丝阳光，云也越来越低，也是灰白的云在山的上方缓慢地拉长了身躯，一层又一层的。要形容山高云低，应该是山冲入云层，或者是云没了山顶。但是这里，山脉和云层是一样颜色，一样线条的，他们相互消融上下连通，完全不知道哪里是分界。就好象云从头顶过去，又顺着山折下来，化做公路回到我们脚下；又好象是公路笔直向前，沿那山一直深入进云端，等绕回我们头顶的时候，已经在那高高的天空中了。
何喜说，那就是唐古拉山啊！
唐古拉真的在飞大雪，在7月的最后日子里，何喜打开雨刷和车灯，在银装素裹的世界小心翼翼地和来往车辆里交错而过。
唐古拉山口是青藏线的最高点，也是西藏和青海的省界。
四千里路云和山之漫漫青藏我们和往常一样，在越是高高的山口就越是没有一点反应，奔前跑后地给自己拍照，帮何喜拍照，又帮其他的车子拍照。
有一辆长沙牌照的英格尔上我在八廊学见过，这是不会认错的。车上是一家三口，夫妻两个和十二三岁的儿子。这小孩真是把我和言羡慕得要死，有几个孩子能有这样的机会，他开学回学校该有多神气啊！
在青藏线上的卡车、大巴和越野车堆里，他们的英格尔和我们的桑塔纳显得特别地另类。于是很自然地两车相互等待，结伴而走。
进入青海，车辆逐渐增多，青藏铁路的工地也更密集。为了铁路修建的需要，武警部队正在大规模地翻造青藏线，原有的柏油公路大段大段地被封闭改造，大小车辆全部要走便道。所谓的便道，无非就是用推土机在草原上稍微推一遍，去掉植被露出泥土，路基基本上就没有怎么处理，被那些重载的卡车一压，满世界的坑坑洼洼泥泞不堪。何喜痛苦地挂着两档，一刻不停地转动着方向盘，慢慢地在路面的坑和包之间绕来绕去。
网上对青藏沿线的武警随意拦车有些微词，也有个士官上来搭了我们的车，后排言坐了一半，另一半都堆了行李，他缩着在包袋边上挤了个小角落，指点着我们走那条便道稍微好一点。我们的聊天很是愉快，何喜亮出自己的老兵身份以后，那士官越发地客气了。
他说，这次青藏线是要隔好多年才进行一次的全线大翻修，现在老路不能走，新路还没好，路况正好是最糟糕的（我们怎么那么倒霉啊！）。今年工程之所以搞那么大，一是为修铁路服务，二是想搞得好一些，用得时间能长一点，也许这是青藏线最后一次全面大修。将来铁路通了以后，重货就不再走公路。
这士官是我们南方人，上来七，八年皮肤已经黝黑黝黑，每年除了冬天之外，大半年的时间都要在4000米以上的地方作业。我忽然又想起了樟木口岸的烈士陵园，那里留不少的武警士兵，也都是为了西藏的路。
靠着士官的指点，我们抄了不少近路，英格尔跟在我们后面，沾了不少光。士官下车以后，我们相互帮忙，轮流探路，好几处陷车地段靠着相互帮助，艰难地挤了过去。
我们还一起对付了拦路敲诈的民工。很多人评价藏族是淳朴的，根据我们的体会，也许真正的淳朴仅仅局限在西藏区内。青海的这些家伙，平时也不干活，就知道围在路边吹牛晒太阳，看到你车过来走错了路，立刻蜂拥围上几十个人，半抢半骗地说你压坏了他们的施工现场，要赔钱！我们两部车子被他们堵在中间，分别用比他们还要响的声音对吵吵，最后各给了一把零钱大概二、三十块。这帮乌合之众瞬时作了鸟兽散，回到边上去分钱了。
风火山、不冻泉、沱沱河、五道梁、昆仑山、纳赤台这些青藏线上如雷贯耳的地名，对我们有着强烈的吸引力。真的到了面前，也就不过如此。而且因为青藏铁路的修建，这些地方留给我们的印象，不过是几个特别大的堆场、施工场或者桥梁而已。到昆仑山口的时候，天已经全黑，我们被挤在长长的卡车车队带起的漫天灰尘中间，艰难地在破烂路面上摇晃着前进。如果不是何喜看见了山口的纪念碑，谁都不会意识到这么个大名鼎鼎的地方是这样平淡无齐，甚至都难以意识到这是个山口，似乎只是漫长公路中一个小小的坡顶而已。
四千里路云和山之骑车进藏一路上，我们追上或者相遇了好几批不下几十人的骑车进出藏者， 年纪有大有小，车子有好有坏，性别有男有女。其中大部分是朝拉萨方向进发，毫无疑问，把圣城作为目的地，是带着一种朝圣的心情前进的。但是，这也意味着多一份的辛苦。因为拉萨的海拔要比格尔木高1000多米，也就是说，整个骑行过程要多整整1000米的上坡路。
骑车进藏，无论如何已经不能创造出什么可爱的世界记录了。他们经历这样的磨难，除了能满足自己内心实现梦想的冲动之外，不可能获得其他的东西；而这个梦想对他们来说，不会有任何一点功利的作用。
中国人，终于摆脱了必须拿伟大意义做幌子才能做事的地步了，终于可以仅仅因为自己有梦想，就去做事了。我为拥有这样的同胞而感到深深的自豪。
在那曲，我们向满面春风，边走边拍的骑车者致意；
在唐古拉山，我们向面无表情，两眼呆滞的骑车者致意；
在可可西里，我们向咬牙切齿，一踩一哈腰的骑车者致意；
我们向全副武装的骑车者致意，我们向因陋就简的骑车者致意。
他们每一个人，都值得我们伸出大拇指，高高地扬起。
四千里路云和山之可可西里的生灵可可西里，因为是正被大肆偷猎的藏羚羊的生存地，而名扬天下。
其实青藏公路和青藏铁路，正是从可可西里腹地纵穿而过，活生生把她劈成左右两半，让野生动物的乐园暴露在来往车辆和机械的巨大轰鸣之中。
我一直对盗猎分子有一种莫名的同情。我不恨他们。
如果看过电视上可可西里反盗猎活动的片子，你就可以知道，我们的公安民警，我们的野牦牛队员是在怎样严酷的环境中进行追捕。那么你当然也可以想象，盗猎分子也同样要面对这样的高寒缺氧，也要同样风餐露宿，也要在茫茫雪原上追逐和亡命。与此对应的，一头藏羚羊的皮毛价格，在格尔木也只有区区几百块钱。扣除各种成本和损耗，一个普通的盗猎者真正的收入能有多少！
不是贫困到极点的人，不会去做这样的事情。残酷地屠杀羚羊或者其他任何生物，当然是不对的。但是每一个人都有改善自己生活状态的权力。盗猎者只是选择了一条错误道路，或者说没有选择地走上了一条错误道路而已。
以个人的名义破坏自然的人要面对国家机器的枪口和媒体的口诛笔伐。以集体名义劫掠自然的人，却可以自豪地站在镜头面前说，这项工程是全体中国人民的形象工程，是社会主义中国的形象工程，中国人民为能建设这样伟大的工程而感到自豪。
写到这里，请允许我再一次打断叙述的顺序。就在今天，我从当地得到消息，2004年，上海崇明出产的长江特有物种刀鱼，突然之间急剧减少。
2003年，长江三峡工程正式蓄水。
在飞奔的车里，我一直寻找着一个地方，在可可西里的太阳就要消失在地平线以下的时候，我终于看到了。立刻让何喜停车，跟在后面的英格尔没有停下，我们就此别过。
这地方是索南达杰保护站。
看来象我们这样顺道拜访的旅客不在少数。保护站有专门的展版和展示柜，有专人给我们讲解青藏高原自然保护的迫切性和重要意义。
在套路式的讲解之后，我又问保护站当前的主要工作内容。一个大学生踌躇满志告诉我，要大力呼吁青藏铁路施工加强环境保护工作，要开展这样和那样的科学考察，要……
狗剩对于环保远远不是一无所知，我对于他们在盛名之下从事这些活动的实际价值，流露出一种难以掩饰的失望。在我的眼中，保护站对于青藏环保事业的主要贡献，不过在于他本身的存在而已。保护站的领导者过分依赖和迷恋在了名义和立竿见影的效果之中，以致于忽略了一些基本的东西。他们的条件虽然艰苦，但在现有的条件下，如果抛开杂念，去做一些琐碎的、微小的，但是能有实际作用的研究或者活动，完全可以取得更好的效果。
言认为我太苛刻了。她不是否定我的判断，但是她说，哪怕保护站真的很少能发挥实际的作用，那也无可指责。就象冬夜里的蜡烛，不能驱散寒冷，至少能给你光明。再起码他们在这样的地方坚持着，而我们不过是一个过客，有什么资格去指手画脚？
言是对的。
看着保护站里打地铺拥挤在一起准备睡觉的大学生们，我好象又看到了十年以前意气风发的自己。十年之后的我，拥有了他们现在没有的经验，却失落了也曾经一样的满怀热情。再过一个十年，他们会象今天的我一样吗？那时候，我又是什么样的？
四千里路云和山之穿越柴达木在保护站呆的时间久了一点，后面又遇上了一次堵车，我们比计划晚了很多。
今天的目的地是格尔木。我并不喜欢这个地方，据说那里的治安很糟糕。
昆仑山以北，就算是离开青藏高原了，公路越来越好，看到的人越来越多，村镇越来越密集，我反而有些不习惯了。漆黑的夜色中，我们穿越第一个镇子的时候，就看见一个车祸现场。从摩托车上被直接撞进另一个世界的死者还躺在原地，两只脚从席子下面露出来，让人不寒而栗。
夜深了，昨天晚上就没睡多少时间，我们三个人都困得不行。我和言撑着轮流陪何喜说话，他虽然坚持着，但是状态明显不对了，过于亢奋地加快了速度，用很危险的动作在S型的弯道上超车。
过了半夜1点，我们才靠近格尔木市区。这个城市因为是陆路进藏的跳板而存在着，公路边有大量的水果摊位，大概是给过路司机补充的。水果摊都用很大的白炽灯照明，在漆黑的街道中显得明亮异常，红黄绿相间的苹果香蕉在灯光下闪着诱人的光泽。
用水果来迎接客人的地方，不会是一个恐怖的地方。我对格尔木的偏见就此打破。
31日终于不用早起了。我们一觉睡到9点，才各自起床，跑到宾馆边上的饭店里，美美地吃了一顿有热腾腾的稀饭、馒头的早饭。这是我们离开拉萨以来第一次吃到热饭呢。
打着饱嗝，走在杨树成荫的街道上，真是爽歪歪啊。
格尔木在柴达木盆地的中央。市区以东，就是盆地底巨大的戈壁滩。平坦无垠，平整的公路是完全笔直笔直的，没有一丝一毫的弧度，一口气延伸到天边，延伸因为天气炎热而抖动的远方空气之中。能见度极好，很远就可以看见对面开来的车辆，因为太远，看上去对方似乎是纹丝不动的，过好几分钟以后接近了，透过窗玻璃，看见对方猛然变大，然后呼啸着相互错车。才明白大家都是在飞快地跑着。
路边不时可以看到满身土色的汽车在向东跑，这样的车，都是刚从上面下来的。看看我们自己的，从侧面也已经看不出原来的漆是什么颜色的了。
中午野餐。前面不远竖立着一块极其高大的警示牌，斗大的字写着“前方三公里，事故多发”。看看前面，没什么呀。继续前进，“前方两公里，事故多发”，“前方一公里，事故多发”，“前方800米……”，“500米……”，200，100，牌子一块接着一块。这是个什么鬼地方！
真的到了0米的这个点，还有大牌子不依不绕地竖着，上书：本地点事故已死亡23人。绝的是，牌子上的其他数字都是老老实实用油漆刷的，这2和3的两个数字居然是用活动的塑料板插在哪里，大有一副看谁不顺眼，随时随地就要变成24、25的架子来。
我们愿意安全驾驶，而不是成为统计报表上又一个悲惨的数字。
当时我一定是给这些警告吓怕了，光记得把车顶的把手拉得来得个牢，居然没有想到拍几张照片下来。
何喜的速度从3公里的80码依次开始减速，开到0米的时候，我们几乎是和自行车一样的速度了。看看前面还是一马平川，并没有什么高山险阻，公路也非常的良好，我和言严令何喜小心开车，我们两个把头颈伸得老长，仔细观察到底这地方有个什么毛病。
的的确确很悬，悬就悬在一马平川，路况优良，没有警示的话，谁都会把速度拉得高高的，但公路到此有一个起伏，感觉上不过是小小的下坡，就是因为有坡的阻挡，很难看到到公路过了高点以后，在地形继续平坦的情况下，毫无征兆地突然一个左转，转弯之急，几乎没有弧度，几乎就是直角，简直就和我们城市里十字路口的转弯一样。如果高速到了这里，大概很容易就踏死刹车，然后方向打到底，那样一定就是向右横滚，轱辘轱辘轱辘……
四千里路云和山之从青海到甘肃青海湖以西，依然是牧区为主，漫山遍野散布着黑白两色的羊和牦牛。青海的气候当然比西藏更好，所以同样的土地可以承载更大的牲畜量，真正的漫山遍野，一路开过去，全都是象星星一样密密麻麻的牛羊。
也许是因为天气不好，也许是因为刚刚看过纳木错，也许是我们还急着要连夜赶到兰州，所以青海湖并没有给我和言留下非常深刻的印象。但是青海湖边的油菜花却让我们非常非常。何喜在拉萨给我们看的照片就是在这里拍的。从国道2137公里处开始，整整50公里，两边全部是全盛的菜花，虽然没有阳光，也照样金光夺目。
还有日月山、倒淌河，完全和内地遍地都是的平淡景点毫无区别。天渐渐黑下来，我们在夜色中掠过西宁，从环城高速上看到大城市的璀璨灯火，不由得发出感慨。
本来想这就是回到充斥钢筋森林的世界了，可以充分享受现代文明的种种好处，可是，还有最后一关等着我们。西宁到兰州的高速公路只造了一半，进入甘肃又变成了地面公路，而且路面非常糟糕，车辆的摇晃和颠簸，完全不亚于前两天的程度。何喜不停地嚼着辣椒，含糊不清抱怨着，这破路，好象又回到西藏了。
四千里路云和山之何喜在黄河岸边的道路上，何喜手搭方向盘，借着路灯，给我们指点着哪里是个美食城，哪里又是个美食城，哪里还是个美食城，仿佛兰州就是一个充斥着各色美味的地方。然后他又说，不过现在太晚了，都关门了。我和言早已经饥肠辘辘，听到这里，真恨不得找出个闹钟来往后退他几个钟头，然后一头钻进去吃个饱。
看起来何喜也很少这么晚了还出来找吃的。在拾取兜了老大一个圈子，才找到了一个还在营业的小吃街。何喜的眼睛本来就小，一边啃着馍夹肉，一边就开始眯啊眯的，越发找寻不见。他打电话，媳妇儿，你现在起来，我们在吃饭，半个钟头以后到宾馆大堂来等我们。
言看表，都1点了。 I am terribly sorry.
到宾馆办好手续，呵欠连天的何喜和哈欠连天的何喜媳妇帮着呵欠连天的我们把行李拎上楼。何喜媳妇递给我们明天一早去上海的火车票。
何喜也是专门跑旅游的，不搞鸭子团，而是专门给散客开小车，常常是他司机一个加导游一个，然后客人也只有2个的，去的地方也不是那些热热闹闹的常规景点，大多是满世界瞎跑。很遗憾根据何喜的叙述，这样旅行的，大部分是老外。
对我们来说，有何喜这样的司机，倒是一种幸运。他完全没有一般导游司机身上的市侩气，也不会缠着我们去买东西，去乱七八糟的景点，暗示需要小费。对于我们频繁的停车拍照，而且是在非景点地方停车拍照的想法，他也完全支持。
这次他进藏，就是带了一对高级白领从甘肃来玩。拉萨再往下的路，他不敢再糟蹋自己的2000型了，于是自己空车回兰州，这个机会给我们抓住了。
我们知道进藏路上他已经到过纳木错，但是后来他告诉我们，在纳木错因为一些原因和客人闹了些不愉快，当时大家就感觉索然无味了。这时候我才回想起来，何喜对我们要求绕行纳木错的想法，一开始的确不是很起劲，路上也不是特别兴奋的。直到那根拉山口以后在我们的感染下，他才逐渐情绪高昂，最后疯狂地跳进了纳木错的怀抱。
何喜这一路的辛苦是无庸质疑的。他始终吃不准我的车技到底怎样，又心疼自己的汽车，所以坚持一个人从头开到底。每天要走那么长的时间，还都是烂路，一般的人受不了。何喜说8月还有一档进藏的。进藏和在甘肃本省跑相比，当然能赚大钞票，不过对车和人实在是一种折磨和考验。
何喜也是慢慢地了解我和言对于西部、旅行、照相、汽车等等的话题，有着超越他原来预计的热情和知识。我们讨论着西部还有哪些线路值得开车一走，他这样的经营方式怎样才能做得更好，推让着最后一根火腿肠，分享着我们的榨菜和他的泡椒，相处地非常愉快。
到后来，因为不愿意在路上走得晚，我和言反而不太愿意停车拍照，何喜却非常认真地一路给我们观察周围的风景，主动问我们是不是要停车拍照，还说，没关系没关系，你们去拍吧，晚一点到我没问题的。路上又给我们卡时间计算怎么回上海最方便，最后打长途回家让他媳妇给我们排队买火车票去。
好吧，我承认，何喜同志虽然那么好，可是我和言还是没有放过他，特别是在晚上这家伙描绘了那么多兰州的好吃的之后，我们一定要他再请客不可。 1号一早，何喜果然把我和言拉到店里去吃正宗的兰州拉面以及其他各种各样东西。
拉面名不虚传，何喜的周到也让我们感动。
何喜没有来得及洗车，没有来得及换衣服，一脸倦容地一定要把我们送进火车站。后来我们还时有联络，不过青藏线上那奔波的几天一定把他折腾惨了，8月份他没有再上去。
最后的话按惯例是应该有后记的，内容是功略、费用清单之类的。不过西藏旅游开发到今天，已经不太需要再写这些东西了。那就偷懒，借用别人的一段话来做我自己游记的结尾吧。转载这些内容，不表示作者赞同或证实有关内容，谨供参考。
那是在大昭寺措钦大殿觉卧佛释迦牟尼十二岁等身像前，一个喇嘛给几个干部模样的内地客人的脱口秀讲解。他的汉语非常流利：
这是我们大昭寺的镇寺之宝，也是我们最崇拜的佛像。大家可以拜一拜。 （客人们依例行合十礼或者磕头不等）但我们在这里膜拜的不是这尊像，而是一种精神。如果只知道对这木头敬礼，那么就没有理解佛教的精神。
这种精神应该是忘我的，无私的。
你们有共产党员，我们认为共产主义和佛教是不冲突的。一个真正的共产党员，首先想到的是别人，我们佛教讲的也正是这样的道理，要善于放下私心，放下一个“我”字。
佛教说六道轮回，但是天堂和地狱并不一定要死后才能到达。
如果人人向善，那么这个世界就是天堂。如果人心向恶，那么，此时此地，就是你的地狱。
作者：elisa
