Starting September 5, 2003
Go to Tibet, not tell is the result of careful consideration, or on impulse. Initially, it exists at the end of last year in the initiation of an idea. Because of SARS, for whatever reason, this idea is likely to last after the end of this year to become only an idea only. But in August, a night in my thoughts in a moment of electro-optical Firestone, has been abandoned the idea of suddenly became palpable reality.
All carried out in a hurry, but in any case, filed two weeks ago, Kailash Mansarovar Yatra is also clueless about what things to me, two weeks later, with a stomach large and small, Raiders, and a colossal backpack, hit the road .
HNA ride from Xi'an to Xining, the face of a life seen in the smallest aircraft, a total of 32 seats. Thought this to "adventure", and the cabin situation is surprisingly good, never imagined the dramatic bumps come, only to see the plane's only one flight attendant shuttle back and forth in a narrow aisle, before people are aware of a small aircraft. Was originally a German-American joint venture business aircraft, known as a world-class facilities. Mix rejoiced, saying that they can go back and brag about something.
Porthole things, a vast sea of clouds for long seduce to my eyes. Evening Xiaguang shining golden in the sky, cloud blue and blue and it is, and reveals a hint of purple, like a silent sea of gentle waves. Watch the sea of clouds on the plane is not the first time, but this really beautiful color is the first time I saw, it is perhaps more rare I blame?
The strange thing is, both before leaving, or in Tibet until after the departure of the day, I rarely've done before on the unknown journey cherished expectations and restless mood. How many people thought Napian fascinating snow-covered plateau, Dan will always be in my heart to make himself surprised. I did not have old and too numb, that is, Gonglue seen too much, so I had to explain my calm.
Xining, September 5 -9 on 7 As well as the strategic importance of Tibet to the starting point of this city, my initial interest in being fully concentrated, "Tibet in leather-covered books," The colored snacks on the hype. Tan Chan, I like a cat, from the beginning, the road opposite the imaginary food coveted again and again in the Mix nagging front of those who "eat to stay," Raiders, until the real passion I truly "eat to stay."
Mo Street, called the most famous Ma Niangpi, even though the spirit of me, "do not waste food" a man of principle, we can only duty-bound to remain almost unchanged in a bowl. Garbo patches, with a soup and stir-eaten two back, finally left half. Mix also eaten, "Pau area," Lu Mian, reflecting the very general. Lamb and yogurt, and finally what I think dim glimmer of light-colored Tim Xining snacks. The clutch hot roast mutton, eating is also, as it is the opposite, after all, where the sheep or the pure taste. Peddler cut a large piece of lamb chops the meat can be bound by a slender sheep bones, baked on the spot in his hand eating, taste better than delicious. The street there are locals selling homemade yogurt, with a small bowl, and covered with glass, resting on a small car, car at the little bench to dissipate into the atmosphere a few Chike sit. Yogurt is really sour, yogurt in Shanghai simply asked one to become drinking water, Fu Qiang, said in Beijing than he tasted the flavor is also stronger. Always sized knot with a layer of Naipi Huang Cancan, for people who love to eat yogurt is a great temptation to the visual. I do not eat yogurt, so I still feel better than delicious flavor. Later, on the road has no longer tasted like yogurt, actually a little bit miss.
Xining snacks to meet, in my opinion still not as well known in general (we also have had a very "fair and impartial" hypothesis: Shanghai people's mouth is too Diao), but to eat a big gain in Xining, is so that we the people of Shanghai to the three "Jin Liang" With a new understanding. Downstairs in the hotel the first night of "sheep neck shops," places a pound of fried lamb chops taken for granted, 62 sheep, neck meat and two bowl of noodles. What a table, three flew dumbfounded, then Yangtianzhangtan, "Shanghai's hotel real TMD Kengren." Whether in restaurants or in the stall, the Jinliang here are staggering enough, enough so that we too often laments a sound ridiculous truth: a pound of meat is a lot of. Not only the amount of feet, where people eat are also cheaper too embarrassed. "Sheep neck" of that meal a checkout, but 40 yuan; meal good and rich breakfast 10 yuan of money without getting to eat We Three out of the door will only giggle.
Xining were equally real. Ask for directions in the street, eat, talk, anytime, anywhere can feel the sincerity and simplicity of local people. Because Muslims living in the area, we have contacted people Youyi mostly Muslims, and their simple and honest and warm with a few people on the Muslims naturally erratic, brutal rumor is a sharp contrast to this so I was very emotionally Mix 2. I have always felt a lot of fear and hate generation, because of estrangement and lack of understanding, or rather, is unwilling to learn. I do not believe what a nation would be better than others, particularly some or damaged a number of human nature is always the same, but any real amount to anything man-made religions are also taught good can not be separated. Read the "spiritual history" or "hot Shi Haer" who, we might have to understand Islam is a religion of great forbear, and only when this great oppression suffered great forbear, when the sacred things of life regarded as tainted only when transformed into earth-shattering resistance, which is essentially unprincipled violence difference.
Hotels near Dongguan is the famous Grand Mosque, is the second largest mosque. Do not go front, you can saw two arc-shaped dome towering minaret. Mo came back from the street that night, we take the opportunity to turn into a temple. Under dry Xining just a night rain, open the mosque square, there are some sporadic puddles. Place a row of rooms on each side, dark, with only a brightly lit, and many small white hat in the inside shaking, as if all these young people. I do not know what to discuss in class or in the atmosphere was lively. Walked along the hall in front of stairs, I saw a silent world. Door, on the ground, facing the Muslims in the West sat 3322, immersed in silent prayer and meditation. We stopped watching years of work had never been seen again after another come to better Christians, in exactly the same silence to repeat the same action: take off their shoes at the door, took out his white scarf wrapped head, into the palace, facing the West sat down cross-legged, meditating on the crowd to join. More and more people, but the hall has always maintained a solemn silence, and no one looked the rise, and no one to talk. Here, there are only connecting with God in silent agreement.
Tar, not far away from Xining Huangzhong County, from Xining stadium to play the past 30 yuan. This built on the master Tsongkhapa was born in the Gelug Sect of Odera did not give me a strong result in "brain waves" shock, paid homage to the many Buddhist temples in Tibet, after the impression that it is increasingly blurred, the only memories that I Tar Ruin of one of the butter. That is how sophisticated piece of work! Each Buddha statues, each a character, every flower, every one leaves, all as if embodies the Spirit of God of the United States was stifling, it is unable to believe that it is the manpower pinch out little by little. Reportedly very low due to the melting point of butter, making it the monks are hiding in the deepest winter through the ice like the cold room, put his hands in ice water immersion biting, and so the temperature dropped to freezing point before the hand began kneading, hand Once the temperature had to bubble once again into the ice water, and so repeated again and again. The old butter every other year will be melted away, replaced by newer and more beautiful works, but year after year, the hands of monks end up severely deformed joints. Created the extreme cruelty of extreme beauty!
Fight to the Qinghai Lake, and from 300. The road, more and more spectacular rolling hills, cattle and sheep elephants collections of pearls scattered in the green grass. Vision gradually become open, the sky bluer, and Grand Duo Grand Duo watched clouds people feel comfortable.
After Riyue and daotanghe, with the legend of the Princess Wen Cheng. The displacement of the girls finally overcome her sadness here, and fear toward Napian making her a saint of the icy land.
Overlooking the Qinghai Lake, along the deep blue and the sky oblivious connected. Fu Qiang, he kept saying: "I finally know what is the Sky Blue." Later on the train over and over again Fang puts it, "like a lover's eyes," feel a little nauseating, but can also distract the attention of mass 12 bar. Unfortunately, to open the season after a rape, or everywhere in the deep blue lake surrounded by golden, he wanders the dark green mountains and blue sky, some extremely seductive.
To close up 151 accountant at Qinghai Lake, the lake is very clear, but the lovely blue has been greatly reduced, noisy contingent of tourists is down-hearted. At that time wanted to, if there is time, then in relation to avoid the crowd, a good walk around the lake to see twilight of the changes, can be really close to it.
Golmud September 8
Xining to Golmud of the train, it chanced four equally ready to backpackers into Tibet: Tibet experience, there have been three Liangxiong, dedicated upstanding Fang, sedate Ruan Jian, and the smiling land. Meet by chance, hit it off instantly. Together we have lived a day in Golmud, but also along the Qinghai-Tibet line together into Lhasa.
I believe that there is a magnetic field between people. To see the land at first glance, I knew I would very much like this happy and easygoing girl in Anhui Province. In the few days later to get along, we turned out incomparable minded.
The first thing the next train is a good Anda and pre-contact team captain, connected to the first chapter. Fast, open to all the original import of the two 4500 Toyota Land Cruiser, just returned from Shanghai Jin Guan transported to here, inside and outside the new, is sent to Tibet to a group of cadres to be used. So corrupt car immediately so that we fare on the 400 yuan per person will no longer repeat. Then there are many like this Golmud to Tibet's fleet vehicles, the driver will always be the way take some travelers, make money faster.
Golmud Hotel Guest House is really good, in the end is a government-run. 100 clean, comfortable rooms in his early standard, that is, smaller upstairs shower water pressure points. Restaurant is a remarkable place, food is tasty and even burned, volume, and the price very cheap. The seven of us ate two meals, sharing less than 20 yuan per person down. Is the manner of good to be touched by people. Point at noon, where five dishes, soup, and found endless volume of too much food. And they discuss the pre-existing mold with vegetable Pork and stay to eat at night, actually agreed.
City Meisha it say, and do not see any major features, in addition to here feel the long-day - more than 19 o'clock the sun not yet down. At the hotel near the mall, see me in Shanghai, bought a piece of money just by selling four of the Chinese pencil hair. Chest! ! After dinner, fellow men, were all to go to a cafe. Internet cafes of the land and I hate to go visiting the hotel next to the underground supermarket and found that we have always wanted to buy the hard tack, as well as herbs, sesame flavors, 2.3 yuan per pack. Bought a few packages out, even with only a few steps away from the small supermarket saw exactly the same product price 3 yuan. Dragging the land ran out to giggle incessantly.
For many people feel fear of altitude sickness, I always disagree. Jiuzhai and the Yulong Snow Mountain in the performance made me confident that I am convinced that his seemingly weak but highly flexible labor force, and has stubbornly refused as they did take Rhodiola Mix. Until the time of Golmud, my self-confidence was the first time in Liangxiong alarmist under constant shaking. Sometimes I really can easily be affected. He who on the high anti-terrorist stories I had been worried for some time, I am sincerely not hesitate to eat Rhodiola. But then after all, or not to eat.
Qinghai-Tibet Railway September 9 -9 on 10
9, 6 am, left Golmud in the dark. Mood inexplicable brilliant.
About 10 minutes later, the car onto the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. The sky is still dark like a night, road sides, you can vaguely identify a bigger mountain dark and shadow.
6:45, over naij tal, dawn twilight.
7:30, over Xidatan, the first ray of the sun began to shine on top of the distant snow-capped mountains.
Cars on the road could run fast, large tracts of desolate frozen after another from a car window flied away. Numerous mountain, like the ancient giants, their barren skin exposed to the sky. An Huang, Chi-Hong, iron gray, silver white, not the same as natural scenery, and the same boundless expanse.
Hill, in addition to mountains and in front of the endless, endless. I took this to the relevance of that song: "I saw a mountain, mountains and rivers connected to a seat." This is what I see the Tibetan Plateau.
More and more dazzling sunshine. The sunny peaks like a gold crown, Golden Delicious, under the mountain towering like a giant's body was lifeless stretch in the shadows. Hill, in the chiaroscuro, the emerged in spectacular moving.
8:00, vehicle refueling before crossing the Kunlun Pass. Opposite the gas station, snow stretching to the distant pulse of the Qilian Mountains, an eagle flew under the watchful eye of our Mountain.
8:30, crossing the Kunlun Pass. Off camera, elevation 4767 meters the cold rushing toward us. Land the beginning, some headaches.
Budongquan, Suonandajie protection stations, five beams, Fenghuoshan, Erdaogou, Tuotuohe Yangtze River. . . Flying at high altitudes do not know how long the "leather-covered books," a list of names has been a month behind them, along with the hearts of the remaining high-anti-shadow. I am sure in this life I do not know what it is altitude sickness. Qiang Fu, and Jun Yao also safely without incident. A "plateau" of the tape from time to time to stir up our spirits Chorus. Able to identify their own health is really a good feeling.
1:30 p.m., in the Yanshiping crude Muslim restaurant to eat the first meal of the day. Poor land-based reaction was a mess, his face was pale, what could not eat, I heard that had been spat upon in the Yangtze River had been once. Eaten dinner, Fong began to sick up. My motion sickness is never to feed his own unfounded by a halo-ning.
14:30, crossing the 5231 meters of the Tanggula mouth. Colorful streamer is very spectacular. Here, I feel a little bit short of breath, when the legs move a little bit heavy.
Over the mountain entered the northern Tibet. Too late excited, began to play a role in motion sickness pills, I sleep in the car pitch darkness. That afternoon, so a vague memory.
19:30, after Nagqu, medicine Jin finally in the past, I began to awake.
22:30, in the dark into the darkness of night when the male. Or in a shabby little shop, eating a second meal of the day. Seven only four bowl of noodles called. Which all four cars high backward. Fong has not even the strength to rise; Ruan Jian his face looked uncomfortable; land a little better, be able to say a few words of; Liangxiong be light, but a headache, but also be able to eat a thing.
On the road, it began to rain. See a big truck overturned in the mud.
Driving through the Lhasa River, Fu Qiang, found an interesting phenomenon: large group large groups of white clouds lying in the mountains, almost as low as the foot. Seems to be hung in heaven one day tired, down and rest like.
10, 1:30 am, in the nearly 20-hour journey, the "kill" into the downpour in Lhasa.
Lhasa, September 10 -11 days, September 18 -9 19 (1) Nikko City, rainy night I did not think my first close contact with Lhasa is so frustrating.
Darkness and heavy rain Let me see the face of the city of sunlight unclear. Auspicious days in front of the water has risen faster car door. Auspicious day was full. Asia Hotel was full. The snow in front of no way out. S captain had been very impatient, and opened the 20-hour drive, they are more tired and more anxious than we can no longer be accompanied We spent a. Two o'clock, when we finally gave up the idea of living backpacker hotel in Tianhe hotel check-in. Miss attitude of the total units rigidly refused our discount request and insist that we need to check-out before noon and said a long time before they reluctantly agreed to extend to 13 o'clock.
This is what I aspire to do solar city? This is the warm simplicity of the Lhasa people?
Lhasa, in the heavy rain the night, I just felt strange and a loss.
Milky Way's room that I stayed in the past few days the best (and it can be said is the best in the whole journey), but I feel awful. I went to Lhasa Beizhao Bao, not to live in all parts of the same hotel.
Bathed in bed, rain is still Buyiburao to beat the windows, seems to be a never-ending. Desire to sleep, my body, but my mind stubbornly stay sober. Insomnia old trouble from the journey starts to go hand in hand, but never like this makes me irritable tonight. Night at the pillow flows. I was finally over and over again became nervous. Liang Xiong said then repeatedly circled in my mind: On the first night of the plateau must sleep, or else the next day will be a high anti-people you'd rather die; day before to Lhasa must not bathe, for physical strength is a great consumption, a is one such person is dead in bed. . . Psychological suggestion and even make me feel shortness of breath.
Inexplicable pessimistic follow. "Rain does not stop in the daytime, and we will continue to live not enter the auspicious day, I do sleep would eventually go on to be high anti-China, Lhasa would become my hell." I really think he is caught in a miserable situation , and even the hope that the trip had never started.
Now want to come all the incredible, in that night was so terribly true. Do not know what made me suddenly approached the brink of collapse. Fatigue may be rushing the way, perhaps the arrival of the unhappy, and perhaps can not sleep distress. . . Maybe all.
Six in the morning, the rain stopped. Despair disappeared as inexplicable as to when. I am still no sleep, but optimism has returned to me.
Moved into the auspicious days of the small courtyard, Hui Zhao Tibetan patterns on the wall the room, I shouted to the land, said: "I found the feeling of home!"
Took to the streets, began to see streamer stuck in the roof, the vast sky cloud cover, wearing robes and carrying the men and women turn prayer wheels in front of us passed. I smiled, walking with ease of mind as I breath. I finally have gone through the sleepless nights, walked a short fragile, and now I am going to feel in Lhasa.
(B) of Lhasa, God of the land street was God's glory still shines in this ancient land over, but traces of modern civilization have long been disseminated to every corner of the city. This staggered in the street was clear and concrete. Age-old buildings, colorful shops downstairs hanging signs; Tibetan black window frames, perhaps some people are sipping coffee, Blue Mountain, overlooking the Golden Temple millennium. At the same time turning the ancient Tao became the largest commercial street. So, where you can see all sorts of people. In Chinese and English to attract visitors at a stall, covered with dust kowtowing who was fashionably dressed young people, hand turning cylinder mutter prayers of the faithful, at us shouting "hello" children. . . Of course, there are like us Xiaguang and foreign wild ass.
Jokhang Temple in front of closed positive, always full of knock heads and other body length of Tibetans. I saw a young child crying loudly around her mother, and his mother, just concentrate on the body again and again look down to the masonry surface. Ground has already been numerous extremely smooth polished body. I went to these devout believers want to intake of my camera, but a feeling hard to explain so I finally did not bother them.
Teramae a semi-basement of a small temple, hundreds of Guang-yan cup butter lamps shining in the darkness with holy atmosphere. Streaks of sunlight from the roof to turn through the gap at the crisp white hair on a woman, as gods golden smile.
Old and the dark hall. Tibetans were holding the hands of butter lamps, flickering of light shine out of a dark Zhang's face, so I pious expression has untold. With them walking in the hall, the same as they touch the Buddha with his forehead before the gate, and the distinguished 12-year-old life-sized, like the Buddha. I do not have religious beliefs, but I respect people who have religious beliefs.
Luckily, I met the tour group to do to explain the Dorje Lama, followed by a tour he transferred hall, listening to him speak fluent Chinese Buddhism, speaking events. The eyes bright, bold gestures of scholarly monks, has exceptionally vivid appeal.
Visited the Jokhang Temple on the roof platform, took a few photos began to lean against the wall a daze. Known as the Golden in the close quarters of Lhasa on my feet. Suddenly, Castle Peak towering on all sides, in the long云舒volume, under the blue sky, decorated in bright as the Golden Buddha, I have the feeling of touch to Lhasa.
Abdallah this lost master's palace, or so magnificent, but I am a kind of a strange indifference to it. In its majestic posture behind the glory of the past may also be traced prominent, but it was the breath of the sacred in my eyes has become Jakunen a. Is a lively teams of visitors, obviously more than the Tibetans.
That is not a distressed 100 yuan a ticket, but if I re-select, I would prefer to stand outside staring up at the square of its towering, or outside the palace to follow the turning of the Tibetans.
"During the east top of the hill
Bringing a rising moon.
Never married adolescent girls face,
Surfaced in my mind from time to time. "
In the rare countless Abdallah, I eventually remember, only one Atsumi's poetry, and its author of the fate of the legendary and multi-contradictory.
Drepung Monastery in order to implement the fare evasion Raiders, we Terakado 400 meters away from the foot of Office on the train, it is hard from the more than 3600 meters altitude climb. When the door finally climbed to the temple and found the correct way is to sit on board, get off at the door, free riders Terakado on the right side of the path up a little. Fu panting of both large and small have been BS-ing.
Mottled white walls, a maze-like path. Drepung Monastery under the sun, still gives the feeling of old and the vicissitudes of life. Indeed is the largest of the six major monasteries of the Gelug Sect, and the countless Buddha Hall and the shag turn too I feel dizzy, only to remember the porch on a beautiful clumps of unknown flowers, and the silence of a monk's shag doors lingering sound of the chant.
Sera Sera experience of free riders because of the boy Sonam Tsering's accession to life. Because it checked the little boy, and we over the wall into the temple of the scheme went bankrupt, and then being "escorted" to climb over the mountains, after a half, and also because he makes no premonition of the 180-degree turn, was openly from the side door led into the temple.
This is a clever boy, never read the book, but learned Pinyin, can speak fluent Chinese, and some commonly used English sentences. He said solemnly people should perform good deeds, but also the attitude of seriousness with the same let me say something funny absurd argument. In the temple, he seems to have become our guide, led us these "free riders committed" to see measures chin hall, large Jampa Buddha, the mountain of rock art, of course, there is the Qiang Fu, and Yao Jun excited about the Huan Xifo.
I do not know for some reason he was standing in the way we enter sihou straight debate by the House's footsteps, let us turn to follow a group of Tibetans into the horse Tuo Ming Dian. This seems to be a Tibetan god who is extremely respected. Hall of Sakyamuni in the Jokhang Monastery in addition, I have not been so many Tibetans packed so tight too. Fu both large and small have been urged me to move forward quickly, it is estimated that he could not stand the smell of.
Debate through the field in a shade of gravel under the ground, boiling the voices of anti-surplus days from very far away can be heard. Gathered here, hundreds of monks. Rapid whipped in front of countless palm, and red robes of the Yi Jiao Tao in the air to draw a beautiful arc. Problems, the questions were very open and enjoyable movements and the deafening applause of the strike, threw parties and meditating on the defensive. They Shuangzhang which sounds similar strike on behalf of impermanence, feeling beat up feeling beat down the sufferings of all sentient beings malpractices depressed and raised to bliss. Unfortunately, they did not understand Tibetan question and answer session. Visitors involved in a little more or less weakened by the seriousness of debate from time to time, in a focused behind the monks would be funny to extend a "cannon", or sounded soon as the impact, pain, "Aiyo."
Back to Pakistan on the city, I met a self-cultivation in the Sera Monastery have been a monk for nine years. Chitchat in, suddenly pointing to the land, a very refined look, with very standard British-style tone, said: "She's like a Japanese woman." Got off, still a very refined look, for us a smile: "See you again. "I'm on the spot Yun Cai.
Majiami in Lhasa ass who should not be any who do not know if this street was on the bar.
Majiami, never married adolescent girls. In this small building to the yellow, there are about Lama memories, filled with exotic beauty proprietress (Message of the countless people say. If I had not Yanzhuo is probably the aesthetic difference between men and women), and, Giant incomparable delicious spicy beef sauce pizza (I never knew pizza could have done so delicious).
Failed to be successful enough in the sunny window, facing the street was a daze following a half-day, only able to read half of this guestbook. Most people have written in general, but at least are sincere. Everest back just to have a very interesting, just write the state: Kamiyama not speak.
Others say Lama is not a single-minded lover. But who can guess the VI Dalai Lama, poet, Prodigal's really thinking? Be remembered for his poetry enough.
"The first best not to each other,
Lest bitter fell in love with each other.
The second best is not familiar with,
Acacia avoid future suffering. "
(C) outside of civilization, the civilization in the city, you will never be lonely, as long as you like with others, smile and say "hello."
Exchange, where as simple and easy as breathing. Several backpacker hostel, can be seen everywhere from people all over each other greetings, talk, exchange of information, and even accompany peers. With us to the Everest Xiaoxia Hotel is in the door to write the post in Asia, "ganging up" on. On that day, our team ate dinner in the expansion to the 12 individuals. Furthermore, from the three strangers, where the Peking Man, we got chartered the relevant information. Even if the different routes, we will help each other.
Really like the Fu Qiang said: Why Meet sense of deja vu. This is a way of greeting a friend can be a stranger place. There was a Beijing girl in front of us lamented that such means of communication in Beijing and Shanghai, simply can not imagine, not to be as strange neuropathy. I understand her feelings. Here in our civilization is well-known outside of civilization.
Or here on the first day, when I stood on the Jokhang Temple Square, the two turn of the Tibetan woman walking through the kindness towards me smile. I also laughed, but laughed short and cautious, subconsciously removed my line of sight, and my heart a little bit puzzled. But their dedication to me with a smile. Finally, I really smiled. I say "le." They smile more brilliant, for me a thumbs-up. Then, farther and farther.
This is the Tibetan civilization and gave me the first lesson. Smile, can do without any reason.
(D) joining and parting, and Fang parallels in the nature in the city. During the day their own ways, sometimes in a corner of the monastery happily meet; at a certain excitement to cobble together at the table.
Land Daoshi with us all the way. Moved to Asia Hotel before the auspicious day she and I lived in one room. Anton finished we smile to. Two people sharing a room piecemeal, so that people who enter the room that we were all impressed.
Starting the night before go to Everest, we have three invited Fong them to "Jade buns" He Jitang. Liang Xiong has gone Shannan. Fang three of them, the words "vanguard army" Liu Qiang, to Lhasa, Qi come from all over the Mix, and then proceed to take the 12 individuals with 25 days of Ali, the Great Northern line. Forget about the days, we should be in Tibet is not on the touch.
We enjoy the dinner table talking and laughing, still laughing when parting wave. The city was also a day for someone to go, parting every day the same repertoire. It does not matter whether the good-bye, so long as the memory together is good.
Author: tinetine51
