Pen Shanxi
"They say good scenery, Shanxi,
Mei Xiang grain to fertilizer and water.
Zuo Shou Yizhi Taihang Mountains,
Is the right Shouyi Zhi Lu Liang.
Stood there, looking at a height of Hope and
Look at the water ah Fen Hua Lala to flow through my little of villages ... ... "
Shanxi music is so beautiful, I can not forget a long time, until the fall of 2003 I finally realized the Shanxi delegation's wishes. Successively to the Jinzhong, Luliang, Linfen, Yuncheng and southeastern Shanxi region, an intuitive feeling but did not song depicts so well. I just glance in many places, it is worth stunning scenery and monuments are not many. But after I came back to rethink the trip, but gained a lot of experience. Shanxi, Shaanxi and Henan is China's ancient culture, a comprehensive expression of the representatives of provinces, accumulated very rich history, but compared to the other two provinces of Shanxi in the past some of the more closed, this may be that it's unfortunate, but for the protection of cultural relics is lucky The. Shanxi travel as in the history of the shuttle, that kind, such as loess-like layer upon layer of past events, such as aged wine-like diffuse in their hearts, the more we remember the more clear. I decided to use pen and ink to re-take again in Shanxi, which is a more exciting journey.
1, the three look at the Yellow River
But any Chinese people on the mother river of the Yellow River has a deep bond of affection, I would also be no exceptions. However, I did not have much chance to close the Yellow River, and repeatedly on the train or plane galloped over the Yellow River, and only three times in Shanxi have intimate contact with her to see three different style of the Yellow River. In these three into the Yellow River, the first time in Hukou reunion with her most breathtaking.
Hukou yes I have been longing for, hence specially designed a line to see her. Chartered from the Huozhou along after Lingshi County, Jiaokou County, Xi County, pu xian, large Changning County, Jixian, about 350 kilometers, take the opportunity to visit the county Xiaoxi Tian Xi and pu xian rushed after the dongyuemiao Hukou's. Shanxi way enjoying scenery, ridge, valleys, plains, hills have watched one times, although very hard work worthwhile. When the evening crossing the Luliang mountains, just encountered wind and rain, mist with the mountain breeze coming in, and visibility is low, the car carefully passed a sharp bend after another sharp bend, a rapid whistle sound quickly submerged in Feng Yusheng, the look and the dark hoarse . 45 kilometers of the mountain to open a full three hours in the evening at seven o'clock struck, and finally arrived at the Yellow River Bridge nest Yoshichiro. Yellow River water quietly flowing Yoshichiro Wo Bridge, along the Shanxi, Shaanxi and the Grand Canyon Pentium away. The two sides inside the desolate night, perhaps the relationship between the rain, visitors are also exceptionally scarce. Overnight Yellow River, Yellow River did not hear the waves from the Hukou Waterfall, after all, where there are three kilometers away.
The next morning, or rain, said that in Shanxi side of the Cascade hole can no longer continue, simply went to see the positive side of the Hukou Waterfall in Shaanxi. Ten-mile-long trough edge, Maner Ocean Waves; ten-mile-long trough, the sounded fog. Assistance with Cang test a low layers of black rocks, turbid waves rolling in just before rushing toward us. Water potential of really big! Hukou is no longer a waterfall, but falls into the 100 filled the entire ten-mile-long trough, big and small, parallels in the nature, far and near, faint thick. This Article Mochi natural flow of excelling in their profession, such as Fen Lin Zhao, save one rolled out the Pentium poly, silver foam swirling in the Huanglong, almost beyond Long slot, will soar. Upstream, the water potential were much more vigorous, I would jump to another piece of stone from a stone, like closer to the river stream Great Falls, but many attempts have failed, and had to stand on the side of the head-up waterfall and can not look up from the bottom of the "Yellow River Water for the sky to "the scene. Billowing of the Yellow River water, the surging waves of the Yellow River, will fall into the foot of volume from before, mortal fall down, stood up and roll rolled up layers of mist spray from the vomit vast Chaosheng, and then ran without looking to the lower reaches.
This is only a face to face let me see the Yellow River forceful. Then in the Guanque Lou and small waves at the end of the two parties make me feel the Yellow River's generosity and deep.
Yuncheng Hejin of the Four Great Towers of Guanque Lou is the world, the Yueyang Tower and the Yangtze River, Yellow Crane Tower and the Pavilion of Prince Teng par. Each of the Four Great Towers, and a Ming-wen connected to the most famous poems is Guanque Lou Wang Zhihuan of that first: the mountain to do sun, the Yellow River into the ocean currents. For a grander sight, a higher level. A child will be reciting the poem, when I remember the teacher is always inculcate "a higher level" realm of life, the two rival views are rarely mentioned. Guanque Lou when I was standing on top of it to understand the relevance of those two to write. Here is the most spacious place the middle Yellow River, the river's show rolled out flat on both sides is the boundless wheat fields, to the upper reaches of overlooking it seemed a very distant mountains, although because he was a rainy day I do not see real, it is still conceivable that long-day will do when the hint of setting sun looked down into the distant mountains; reached the other side of the floor, looked to the lower reaches, this mighty stream of flowing water turning a corner I do not know aiming for, but disappeared in a faint on the horizon, like think only that vast expanse of ocean is incomparable her only real destination. Less than Guanque Lou is impossible to really understand the kind of generous poetic, and just plain Wang Zhihuan that speech captured the essence of the Yellow River here.
Seeing the Yellow River is the third in the new old town Xiaolangdi side, or a rainy day, and therefore can not be a boat tour to go into reservoirs, and had to stand on the shore looking at a look. The early rain stopped, light waves shore, the reservoir is also overflowing, and even part of the pier had not entered the water. The opposite is the hint of mountains, behind just worked the wheat fields, I like the wind stood calm as mixed yellow rather than green in front of the Yellow River water, my heart repeatedly recited: "quiet waters run deep, the water flow of deep quiet . " Never seen the water pour spout urgent, but also can not think of where the long Shiba, the Yellow River is such a complex and mysterious, just like the Chinese character. Sanmenxia Reservoir Xing and waste Xiaolangdi Reservoir harm and benefits, as well as the Yellow River thousands of years of debate and other controversies surrounding this subject, as compared with the Yellow River have deep fade. Vigorous Ye Hao, tolerant and Ye Hao, love is also her hate is her, a large part of China's ancient history is the story of the Yellow River, but so far it is unclear what the Yellow River in the end is a river, and this is the Yellow River deep, Because deep, so broad.
Qiao Li Yellow River shore, pitch, ancient and modern thinking. Shanxi, the Chinese nation and civilized West, upstream Yaoshun Yu, Ha and Yen Hsi-shan, Yan has Jiezi Tui, justice related to Kung, the powers of a sigh Tuoba K-Swiss, Tsan Tai Kok Tsui, Jinyang Li Tang Dynasty, the Jin Gang wealthy within the four seas merchants, despite the staggered Buddhist and Taoist Confucian ... ... of the Yellow River water thousands of miles in the mountains at the junction of Shaanxi to play the strongest voice of the Hukou; Chinese history for thousands of years, both in Shaanxi and Shanxi interpretation of the most brilliant chapter in natural and humanities coincidence, it is under the heaven-sent opportunity. Had such a spectacular natural creation, culture deep, rendering a more implication.
Looking at the Yellow River, your body is no longer a geographical sense of the Yellow River, but the hearts of hundreds of millions of Chinese totem; your character is no longer a hydrological conditions, where the Yellow River, but the character of communion of the Chinese nation. My journey in Shanxi Yellow River has always been accompanied by the Yellow River is also my journey on the starting point for cultural significance. The pen Shanxi, from top to bottom millennium, vertical and horizontal miles, not a scene and each object only in the intelligence center, consistent ink is no longer my trip, but Shanxi earth long course of history, civilization and glorious history of the Yellow River.
2, Jin source of water
Night car tour in Taiyuan Street and Fen Yingze both sides of bright lights, tall buildings, feel no different from other cities can be Taiyuan City, after all, there are two five centuries of history. Shanxi, a lot of ancient ruins, such as Linfen's Yao Miao, Qinshui of Shun Wang Ping, the Dayu Du Yuncheng, Yangcheng's Tangdi temple, but in people's minds, Shanxi flourished in the Jin Dynasty in water, the water originated in jinci Jin, This should be a number of years of history came from the springs in the turning Jinci outflow.
Jinci circulating a story: Mr. Liang Sicheng who think Tongdutaiyi not leave a real ancient architecture, so he has been a long time ago heard Jinci are not paying attention. A second study in Shanxi, he sat a donkey cart, and occasionally saw an overfly of the roof, immediately concluded that this is the relic of the Song Dynasty, and asked the next people to know the Shengmu Dian Jinci. Later he came to Jinci verified his findings. The story is true or do not have to fuss about, but have a distant history of Jinci it is true.
Jinci in the 25 kilometers south of Taiyuan Jinyuan county was enshrined by the founding of the Western Zhou Jin Tang Shuyu's ancestral temple, the Northern Wei Li Tao Yuan in "Waterways" has written: "The Inter-Mountain pillow water, Tang Shuyu Temple water side are cool together, knot flying beam at water. "The mountains are hanging urn mountains, water is hard and old springs, cold church is Shengmu Dian, while the fly is a fish, marsh fly Liang Liang. These mountains, water, Temple, Liang Jinci this constitutes a rare northern garden-style shrine. Into the early morning here, I did not feel shrine shred of dignity and solemnity of oppression, and that a fresh and vivid to me endless infection. Eyeful old trees, flowers, birds filled ear blowing sound of spring water, scenery and harmonious way. In the tour Jinci way into Kagekiyo door, bypassing the Swie King units, step onto the event Xianqiao via Jin Taiwan had to face was the more arch and Yuan Xiang Dian, followed by fish and marsh beam and Virgin flying palace to the west a turn jellyfish on to the old buildings and difficult spring. The scenery everywhere there are many legends and allusions, often in groups and were raised, such as Jinci Sambo (Shengmu Dian, fish, marsh fly Liang and Tang Monument), Jinci Ruin (Sung ladies, it is difficult Oiizumi and Zhou Bo) , the three were plaque (Swie King Taiwan, Vietnam arch and difficult Oiizumi) and so on. Whenever the mention of such famous literary reference guides, always in full flight, the enraptured. Party land and water side of people, who did not say home is good, looking proud of them and explains the appearance, is also a very pleasant experience.
In fact, the real treasures are Shengmu Dian Jinci. Sheng Mudian is Jinci the main hall, originally Tang Shuyu Temple, and later emperor of the Tang Shuyu sealed mother-eup, Jiang as "Chao Ji Virgin Mary," here turned into a ritual where ginger-eup, Tang Shuyu hand, moved Jinci Temple of the iceberg. Eup ginger-bloomer daughter of King Wu of Zhou's wife, Zhou Wang and Tang Shuyu mother's history has been called "yin within the rule of the Tao-ming, prenatal education," the record. Zhou Wang and his younger brother when the tert-yu play, and once a Chinese parasol trees cut celts look like to give tert-yu, saying that it wants Jin packet to him, grew up a natural-jun no joke, is really in charge of so-tert-Yu of the Jin and Tang Cixing for. This is the "cut-tung Feng brother" story, but also Li Tang dynasty set the country as "Don" of the origin. Sheng Mudian is China's existing best-preserved building in the Song Dynasty, and double eaves Xieshan Ding, lacking a broad prospect of seven, the hall into the deep six, but the whole building is square planar, it is because the wide front porch in particular, into the deep, two Inter. Large front porch, huge roof, the soaring Yan Jiao, Panlong's poles, makes the whole Sheng Mudian solemn and ethereal, and then combined with the so Zhoubaitanghuai, marsh fly fish front of palace beams, rear overhang of the Urn peaks, the entire set of construction has become more Weiran Grand. Sheng Mudian in a ginger-eup, 42 Sung statues and painted the eaves of these long-buried statue ladies are still in the dim light in flavor Zoran, especially one wearing a Red Hat, side head-meditation of the ladies, seems to be happy seems to be and worries, and then ever more interesting.
Jinci is a place where reading materials need to thin the assortment of plaques and couplets anywhere everywhere. Detailed view can be divided into three categories, there is praise Jinci is the source of Shanxi, such as: "Tang Jin Si source", "were issued Ren Tang", "name broadcast Shanxi"; a praise Jinci scenery, such as: "The mountains ring water around the unparalleled, the god of musicians Fun Zone "," Water Xiushan out, no ink no pen drawings; fine spring day, very impressive article "; a narrative history of Jinci legend, such as" Pratt & Whitney Tong letters, "" Ling-yuan-hui Ze, "" Peize a total of Fen River, ten-mile stretch of stream jasper rice; shear-kyu sub-wild ginseng, the Millennium Tung Yin Pu Li Meng "and so on. Is basically for the occasion, words of praise. However, some magical pen, such as Fuqingzhunvke inscribed, "hard old" plaque (the plaque is the oldest Jinci the plaque, the Qing Emperor Qianlong fifty-two years to reestablish the work, all the rest of plaque after the late Qing). "Difficult old" word phrase from the "Book of Songs ? Lu Chung ? Pan-water" in the "never tin hard old", meaning that Jin Flows coexist with the Heaven and Earth. Pavilions both sides of the column there is a very good match couplet: "day and night to accept defeat, heaven and earth with the flow", from "The Analects of Confucius" "son Kawakami, saying: 'lost time is never around the clock,'" four-character short together, the be difficult to make, a rare couplet not only difficult to co-author the meaning of the old spring, another Shenzhan philosophy. Spring hard old life is easy and old, and now that spring has dried up the old difficult, not to mention thousands of years as a hero is Fengliuyunsan!
Forget their roots, pay tribute Jinci, and makes a pick up, quite a lot of harvest. Jinci seeking to sign a lot of people, said to be efficacious unparallelled anywhere, pray pray for longevity, Child-giving wealth. But I find it to their own fate on the hands of deities is not assured, or their own efforts to be more solid grasp more. I went to school Jinci greatest achievement is a "trust", cut-tung seal The story is the younger brother of the letter, jellyfish are also talking about the legend of Goddess letters and later Li Tang dynasty, a century-old fortune and prosperity of Shanxi from the non - Open this "trust." University Road, in the Ming Mingde a person's life should always learn from the country Lijia moral personal behavior, and the "letter" is a fundamental moral. Vicissitudes of history, heroes dust, only spiritual and moral stay forever in people's minds, melon leaves stretch of human development is not absolutely true source. In hiring a source of water, thinking the fundamental code of conduct, it is interesting to do.
In the distant way, I still see from time to time calm Fenhe could not help but remember the source of the Jin Dynasty of water, this landscape shaped wins jinci.
3, Chung-yi Chiaki
Chinese Double Ninth Chung Yeung Festival in September is the solution of the state (local dialect, "solutions" read "harm" sound) temple temple rush days of the year twice (second time was the lunar eighth day). Unfortunately, I have to catch up this year's festive season Quemei fancy, full of resentment that the endless autumn rain. There were any errors, visitors less I can appreciate the careful elegance of this country's largest temple.
Haizhou temple worthy of the highest standard across the country, covering the largest and most complete shape Wu Temple. The whole temple ran a kind of dense style palace, axial symmetry, Front Hall after the sleep. Sub-three-door for the side door, pheasant gate and the Meridian Gate, opposite the side door glass screen wall for the four dragon left and right is the drum tower, the door is to use three cross-up of copper Copper Cylinder block public, meaning that civilian got down, military attache dismount, people stop there. Entire code of dress, through the side door, the door to a pheasant. Pheasant door is very interesting, behind closed doors, in a shop with wooden steps is a stage, percussion guy a knock, Kuan Kung opera can be staged precisely the opposite became the Meridian Gate Theater. Front Hall of the subject is Yu Shu building and chongning hall. The main hall is called chongning Hall because of Guan Yu in the Sung dynasty has been called "chongning Zhenjun" to the Ming Guan Yu sealed as "Kuan", hall size also increased to nine-bay hall, surrounded by a total of 26 disk Dianwai Long columns, can be comparable to Qufu Confucius Temple, Dacheng Hall is entirely imperial specifications. Guan Yu is also the king chongning hall, dressed in a Fumiomi about the legislation, according to tour guide said that the two ministers is to show the emperor Guan Yu's style of furnishings, there is no name of origin. In actual fact, according to "Gai Yu Cong test," reads: "Wanli Twenty-two years, due to Taoist Zhang Tong Yuan's request, (Guan Yu) into the MG for the emperor, the temple, called" martyrs ", forty-two years has Chifeng" Three Realms Demon Great Shenwei respect Kuan Yuan skies "and then seal his wife as" 9-Wu Su-Ling Itoku King, "so that sub-level as" dried-zhong WANG ", Zi Xing as" Memorial King ", Zhou Cang for" Wei Ling Hui-yong public. " Chi-left prime minister one for Song Lu Xiufu, a right prime minister, for Zhang Shijie. ". After the sleep by the knife House, India House and the composition of the Spring and Autumn House. Knife is the Dragon Yanyue Dao (the earliest historical records, Guan Yu to make the sword, and later became a spear, until the Yuan Dynasty was replaced by the sword, "Three Kingdoms" and named the Dragon Yanyue Dao), and India are the Duke Shou T'ing Hou India. Spring House is the tallest building in the whole temple, upstairs statues on public reading of the Spring and Autumn, as well as a symbol of the 108 counties in Shanxi Province 108 wooden Geshan. There are many subsidiary of the temple buildings, such as surrounded by the Bei Lang, etc., in particular, is the temple inside and outside the five arch is very characteristic of each arch was a note of the inscriptions are: "Qi Su thousand years," " Dayi tall, "" Loyalty Guan Day "," Megatron China "," Bandai pay their last respects, "and linking up is Guan Yu's highest rating: during his lifetime," Megatron China, "behind" Bandai pay their last respects, "never" Loyalty Guan Day ", always "righteous cause trees," forever "gas Su thousand years."
5 arch of my favorite "Bandai pay their last respects" stone arch, but it was shelved in a tourist area outside, no one is interested, more dilapidated. In addition to telling the same day the old man in the parent's house a few, only I hold the camera features a move to take pictures. May be the people around me feel strange, but I have to be able to see such a fine stone arch and delight. The whole carved exquisitely carved stone arch, a group of a group of all Guan Yu's life story: Taoyuan three sworn brothers, warm wine chopped Huaxiong, Sangumaolu, Longbridge do not speak, over five hurdles will be, implicated kill Yan Liang Wen Chou, Yi Cao release , single-pole, to attend the summit, and even into the Confederation of the statues of God, just not a section of the city suffered setbacks. Torii these characters engraved on both sides of the story, but also to impose painted more vivid! Looking at these stone of the comics, not help think of the legend of Guan Yu.
Guan Yu, Zhuge Liang spoke highly of "outrageous Yiqun," That's kind words. In fact, Guan Yu was originally an ordinary three generals, defeat death, decapitated; Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties unknown tree that few people mentioned that when the Sui and Tang Dynasties as a force at the time of the 72 saints with the late-bloomer, one of ; descendants of great importance is attached, Song for the King of Emperor Ming and Qing was St. has become a par with the Wu sage Confucius, folk even Guan Yu as a god. Why is there such a legendary Guan Yu's experience? However, from private worship, the court use and think about three aspects of religion to promote, there are still well founded. First, the image of Guan Yu is deeply popular among Chinese people, he matter-Zhong Liu Bei, Cao Cao's a moral right, to be his wife and courteous, read the Spring and Autumn there are intellectual, Kill Kou Yong, and Guayin sealed gold, not mercenary color. So the people respect him and pay homage to him, even him as a god of wealth. Start the Tang dynasty there, "said the three countries", then this (story-teller's predecessor), the Yuan Dynasty after the opera is endless, so do not literate in the middle of Caomin will know Guan Yu Guan Yu worship the wind grew farther and Sheng. Then the court Guanfu come forward, and Guan Yu's loyalty and justice, is also based on Confucian feudal dynasty rule the world by promoting and respected. With this in mind the people respect the god of loyalty, the court brought a very easy to use, so Lei Shi sealed temple respected. With the "Three Kingdoms" Dajiang Shan Qing Dynasty is the story of Guan Yu clever use of communication and Mongolia in the relationship between the emperor of the Mongol Princes, said: Aisingiorro is the reincarnation of Liu Bei, while the ministries of Mongolia is the younger brother of Guan Yu, Meng Man generations of brothers, and never a negative phase. In the public Ye Hao, court Ye Hao, Guan Yu's Zaoshenyundong which is also unavoidable role in promoting religion. The first to Guan Yu is the Taoist worship of God, first as a strange town Chuyao god, the latter became the commander of the Three Realms of the Great God. Taoism is also requested the court to seal Guan Yu became emperor. The second myth Guan Yu's religion like Buddhism, Buddhism in China after the constant and Taoism and Commander, well one way is to use the Buddhist "great magic," Shou Fu Taoist immortals. Then borrowed a story of the Three Kingdoms, Guan Yu became the law-enforcement of the Garan Bodhisattva in Buddhism. The story is like this, Sun Quan, Guan Yu has been decapitated, the skull was sent to Cao Cao's there, also buried in Luoyang, so Guan Yu lingering Zhi Han, "head", bent on revenge, when the soul to the Jade Spring Hill just ran into Kai-chi Master Zhi Kai Master of the souls of Guan Yu said: "You shout your head, you want revenge, but now that you have cut off the head of the person to whom revenge, where to find it end?" Guan Yu insight, to lay down their machetes, Site Buddha ! The last intervention Guan Yu Zaoshenyundong religion is Confucianism, Confucianism has always been against the superstitious, but Guan Yu's loyalty is one of the Confucian faith, so elect Wu Guan Yu became saints, establish Wu temple to worship, in fact, for the Confucian, the temples where Guan Yu is not the clay, but people's minds the spirit of loyalty. Three kinds of China's most important religious continuous integration, Guan Yu in the role of religion more important. Religion and politics, folk combination of Guan Yu that God can truly respect the hearts of the Chinese people took root.
Yuncheng in the vicinity of the remains of Guan Yu are still many of the famous temple there are salt ponds, and often flat. Temple is located in Changping Town, 18 km of the state solution of Changping Township, was born in Guan Yu place. Ever since his youth because in addition to bully Guan Yu fled the home, Tou Jing Guan Yu's parents committed suicide after the hand, there is not to turn off the name of the descendants. Chang Ping temple was originally built by private initiative is small, its own characteristics. The most important feature here is Guan Yu's ancestral temple, which enshrines Guan great-grandfather, grandfather, father, Guan Yu and Guan Yu's son, Five Dynasties period, is the rest of the temple does not have. Yuan Dynasty, the temple has a brick tower, according to legend, under tower is the cast of Guan Yu's parents well, later building a tower of the tomb. Cypress is also a posture here, strange-shaped, in which a nearly lodging, but the down direction is pointing to solutions of the state temple, and with the other trees, the opposite (most of the trees along the mountain breeze blowing in the direction of dumping). Legend of Guan Yu in Luoyang after the death of head and body in Xiangyang, the soul in his homeland, Kuan Kung's soul night in Changping temple to rest during the day to fly on the cypress tree along the solution of the state temple work, happen to have a lush, where cypress, pointing Here, two trees away from right, the introduction of reveries. Temple gate on each side of a wooden arch, side view is just like birds, one of the four characters on the question: "Ling Chung salt sea," Bell describes the spiritual opposite of the mountain, while the salt sea refers to the The salt pond in Yuncheng.
Yanchi take the history of salt has been 4000 years, an annual spring and autumn water, water, salt and analysis system; summer water into the fields, and dry for the salt; winter draining water, bottom is a nitrate, is said to perennial up to one meter thick. Cycle for thousands of years in ancient China, one of the three major salt producing. The ancients in the East China Sea boiling sea of salt, Sichuan Zigong drilling for salt, are human products; only Yuncheng salt ponds, as long as the day, water, wind Samadhi, tico natural, no human. The ancients did not know there are salt mines under the salt pond, only when a supernatural power Chuanzao, built the temple to sacrifice the pool. Yuncheng Salt Lake ages been regarded as "national treasures", which is also the Yuncheng area (in ancient times known Hedong) since ancient times, salt peak, the origin of matter Minfeng Fu. Legend of the Song Dynasty, there was three years, the salt pond where heat waves rolling on the crimson water, salt shall not be out of the court shock. At that time got the upper hand of Taoism, Zhang Fearless display their supernatural power, saying it was Chiyou mischief, this Chi-Chi You with the blood of pool water is! So Come Guan Yu Xian-sheng, thunder and lightning burst of wind and rain, the salt ponds to re-calm water back to the Qing, another salt of the. This is the Yuan Dynasty Drama, "jihad Guan Hin Chi You," a blueprint. Because there is such a god Guan Yu, Zhang Fearless on a written application to the court seal Guan Yu as "chongning Chun Kwan." Even the ancient Yellow Emperor's old rival Chi You are no match for Guan Yu, the court can not neglect the natural, and constantly canonization of Guan Yu, built the temple festival.
Talking about "loyalty" is easy, says Qing "loyalty" It's hard, I said: Germany bad and courteous, reasonable and there are laws to repeal. Ancients advocating rule of virtue, and "loyalty" is the core idea of Germany. Guan Yu's life, there is loyalty there is justice, a model for future generations. Today's China again put forward the principle of rule of virtue, and establish guidelines for the times and the representative of the characteristics of loyalty is very valuable and necessary. Guan Yu is the root in the hearts of the Chinese god of loyalty, but also on behalf of the Chinese people have generally a code of ethics worthy of future generations of people will always admire. Worship Guan Yu is actually the hearts of people worship the eternal ideals.
Yu Guan Yu's hometown, chasing the story of Guan Yu, like the spirit of Guan Yu, Guan Yu's hair feeling really: Reading the Spring and Autumn autumn autumn, Guan Yi Guan Gong Temple off the government.
4, North Cheng Kuo
Wrote Pingyao, it is natural to think of riding a tricycle on the walls of the elderly. I sat in his car in the turning circle of Pingyao ancient city wall, along the way listening to him Pingyao "is a north to south, from west to east of the turtle city" to meet with his dancing, enraptured's speech looks like It is indeed memorable.
The story of the elderly tandem bike up the ancient city of Pingyao is a very good commentary. Pingyao Ancient City was built in the Western Zhou Dynasty, has relocated three times, today's Pingyao was finalized during the Ming dynasty city site. Pingyao ancient city wall preserved, east, west, north, side walls, straight south of the river outside the city walls because of the terrain and some twists and turns. From the air, overlooking the south gate was the first, the North gate is a tail, two things that each of four paws gates, north and south gates is not a straight line, the overall shape is like a Yaotoubaiwei, vivid turtle. Here the old man riding on the praise: This is a turtle and A! Bless us rich people Pingyao City, Lucky! In order to keep this turtle and the Aura, Pingyao city's builders quite a bit with thoughts. Pingyao Town things four turtle claws doors, three doors toward Nankai, only the east north-east door is opened, the City attached outside a ten-mile dirt road outside a pagoda, like a turtle with a chain leash on the left After the claws, would not let him slip away. South gate where repair a small lion temple, the small lion just stood on the turtle's neck, so the turtle has become chickened out, and naturally Pao Bule. Perhaps somewhere a coincidence, two magic turtle really quells this city, really blessed this northern Cheng Kuo remained intact for thousands of years have been stormy. A total of four throughout the wall turret, only the northeast and the northwest corner of F, has resumed, the remaining two were destroyed. But the symbol of Confucius owns 72 wise men of the watchtowers and 3000 disciples Embrasure also well-preserved, there are several not afford the remnants of the lower deck is also like a painted sculpture of the sage. In addition, the walls still left Kuixinglou Building and point sets. Ring a week, you really want to gasp in admiration builder's ingenuity, the entire wall of traffic engineering and drainage design are complete, lookout tower, horse face, female walls, Embrasure complement each other, forming a corner without any of the defense system. Wall of the north, east and west on three sides are dug outside the moat, south of the river, nature as a defense, and now the city ho, dry, but the Luk Lau planted along the river is still dotted with the gray castle, to the ancient city with a to fresh weather.
Pingyao city streets the original four, eight streets with 72 lanes (I suppose this number and the walls of the watchtower is a one to one). 4 Main Street, the east-west there are three, the south one, which connects the east and west of the temple of the Confucian Temple (Wu Temple), is the so-called civil and military match; the middle one, which connects the east and west of the county Yamen Town God's Temple, match the so-called yin and yang; the north side of an east, Qing Xu concept, the West is a Temple (already destroyed), can be said to match Dobutsu. Runs through the three east-west street there are a north-south street, through the south gate, which is now the Ming and Qing Street. The Ming and Qing Street, High Noon is a city of buildings, City House is the tallest building in the city of Pingyao, the property next to a well, legends water color yellow, so called "Koganei House"; City House there is a legend: City building foundation beneath an Piece Gold colt, it Qixian gold carriage, a large meteorite Lingshi Jinzhong three collectively known as fetish. Legend is not looking, boarded floor, City, would be very easy to see daily life.
Standing on city upstairs, to wait and see on all sides, since shops are piled layer upon layer of roof tiles can feel Chinese culture moderation and balanced beauty. Pingyao Ancient City of Pingyao is a country literati, who traces her thoughts of Confucius, with brick tile block structure has played a consistent officiating law cities, everywhere embodies the spirit of order and ethics. Chongwen re-wu, Confucius, Guan Gong are to become one of absolute faith, Ren Yi was invited to the imperial court, as priests, and the Buddha were enshrined together. Pingyao Pingyao is the public traders for their own lives many magical city of rendering color, ancient legend, the story of Genie, in fact, the hearts of the people are yearning for. That Caishen Miao, Qing Xu curl the concepts of cigarettes rises, it is the hope of the people from generation to generation without a break. These two different levels of spiritual needs are in the ancient city of Pingyao, and embodies the integration of thousands of years, endless. At sunset, the visitors gradually dispersed, and the residents of the ancient city of lights and the night started inside a real life.
The ideal is always a noble and beautiful, the ancient Chinese five thousand years of pursuing the road of heaven in fact never materialized. Real life is concrete, a city can not only dominated by the spirit and faith, politics and law are necessary instruments of domination, and its representative is the Yamen. I saw a total of two in Shanxi Yamen, one is Pingyao County Yamen, the other is the Zhouya Huozhou. County Yamen in the Ming and Qing dynasties which are the lowest in government institutions, and Zhou Ya higher level. If you think the Governor's office in Nanjing and Beijing, two river palace Forbidden City, I have seen a government office at all levels of the remains of ancient China, from which many of them can Glimpse of government office culture. Pingyao County Yamen similar to the pattern and Huozhou Zhouya divided into eastern, central and western three-way construction, Road to the door, instrument door, hall, 2, Neizhai, is the main administration building; East for the former coaching inns, After the warehouse; West for the former prison, after the school field. The lobby is the heart of the Yamen building, generally referred to as "People First Church", mainly large-scale ceremony was held and trial of criminal cases in front of the hall has a spacious courtyard and platforms, hatchback is "ritual, officials and workers, punishment, soldiers, households "six rooms, the overall architectural style of solemn solemn, fully embodies the power of the splendor. Two relatively easy construction more generally deal with money and grain and civil litigation. Pingyao County Yamen 2 instrument there is a plaque hanging on the door, "heavenly principles and human law of the land," a more comprehensive expression of the ancients and the three magic weapons deal with things, "heaven" is a virtue and morality ethical enlightenment; "law of the land" is a mandatory law Tsunatsune means; "compassionate grounds" is the sensibilities of lubrication between the measures. Heaven Ye Hao, state laws human matter whether in fact all officials at all levels to grasp first-hand. Since ancient times, people praise Bao, Hai Rui and so clean government, but also to the more politically developed an expectation. Any expectations because it is not readily available is more more precious. Neizhai part of County Yamen, and Zhou Ya somewhat different, Zhou Guan is five products, there are families Neizhai; magistrate is 7 items and can not bring family members took office, so only one Neizhai into three. Three living downstairs, upstairs set up a God Court, Gong Fengguan India. Shou said that India is a HUXIN, clean government keep printing, corrupt officials seize India. Bourne is said Wang Ran, after all, is nothing but self-deception as a magistrate sustenance Bale.
States with the king is the country, an official for the city in the city. The Quartet 1 cities, imposing a government office, coupled with spokes converge the streets, lined with shops, between the merchants, cross-flow of residents, so there will be a Pingyao. Scattered throughout the city of the Ming and Qing Dynasties are the study of Chinese heritage living fossils of ancient cities and towns. In the drizzling rain, I search for in the ancient city of winding streets. The shops on the street is also the name of Ming and Qing Dynasty's old number, the appearance is also an old look, but he is "new wine in old bottles." Ming and Qing Dynasties the street's business climate, particularly dense Lie, push light lacquer, Pingyao beef, some unsightly signs are everywhere, restaurants and hotels soliciting voices. Had their eyes turned into streets, here is another world, quiet deserted, and even some lonely world. Occasionally flash into the brick gatehouse, cornices corner, or a door stones, an old tree, but also some to be the shadow of the past Retention.
Night I was lying on the sand Inn Lane Street gains and a heatable adobe sleeping platform, watching this 278-year-old house. It was originally a ticket dispensers, No. Hou Bin Wang's home, and now opened the inn. The appearance of the old houses have been well protected down, launched stone, Shuanma columns, gates, prostrata doors, as well as the girl's show floor, and so readily available. Completely changed the internal structure of the room, and air-conditioning, color TV, sanitation everything. All this can not make me think of the status of Pingyao, Pingyao, I began to think about the purpose of this trip. The whole country is fashionable today's visit to Cuba travel, Jiangnan town, Huizhou village, Shanxi compound, Lijiang, Pingyao, the ancient city of Phoenix and other hot spots have become and surely this is the inevitable result of social change. Economic development and social transformation of farming civilization has become now that I have thought deep inexplicable nostalgia, that the remnants of the ancient remains of modern man's fatigue with ease, then a long absence, the soil warm fragrance with modern atrium. However, too much follow the crowd and over-commercialization, put the last point's deep tenderness were raids in particle-free survival, leaving tourists, may only have this commemorative photo and a tour that could not make up for the disappointment.
Two days, compared to only a blink of an eye the history of Pingyao; town of Pingyao, in relation to the vast country is a leaf of the boat. Perhaps the tender care of God, in this northern Cheng Kuo, the circulating history of the evolution of the millennium, flash-off ticket number Shanxi prosperity, Lvjing the war, and cleaned up the situation and remains stubbornly standing in Jinzhong earth. Now it is left with only a body, is enough to reflect the political ideals of the ancients, Zhi Shi measures and cultural values of these cultures so that it remains adequate access to the World Heritage Award.
5, loneliness Village
Walking Shanxi, farther and farther, but still do not see the real people's lives. As a traveler myself, I destined to only large or small spots on the lingers.营造的气氛，附会的故事，穿凿的景物，都不是我的兴趣所在。反而是村路边好奇的孩子，院门口淡漠的老人，忙着收拾院子洗晾衣服的妇女，赶着牲口架着车子匆匆而过的男人，才吸引了我更多的目光。他们和我有着隔膜，但我并不愿意只是一个陌生的看客，我努力地和尽可能多的人交流，或者司机，或者乘客，或者商贩，或者导游，他们的言语让我更加了解这一片美好的山西大地。从大城市，到小城镇，直至乡村，行走的越深入，所得的越丰富，我坚信人文的美才是山西最大的风景。
相比起知名的寺庙、宅院和古城，经过的几个小村子让我感到更亲切。它们是寂寞的美人，在山间静静一等待就是几百上千年。容颜已经杳然，风韵依旧长存，那浅浅留下的几眼回眸、依稀身影，也让我着迷不已。
阳城县郭峪村是个从明代就兴盛起来的大村子，闯王李自成因为它远近闻名的富裕攻打了三次，村庄几乎毁灭，所以在后来的重建中就特别突出了防御的功能。我在这里的旅行也是从一段地道开始的。郭峪村的地道一端直通村外，就在一个普通的民居小院子里，外人很难知道这么个隐蔽的出口。地道内大约一人高，稍稍弯腰就可以通行自如了，不过导游说原本地道并没有这么宽敞，后来为了方便旅行才拓宽并包了砖券。地道内还有分支，通往村子的其他地方，最重要的一条路是通向村中心豫楼的。豫楼是郭峪村防御体系的重要部分，“豫”通“御”，当危险来临外敌入侵时，全体村民可以躲进楼内进行防御。豫楼由村中大户发起，全体村民出工出力建成的，楼宽五开间，楼高三十三米，是真正的百尺高楼。楼分七层，底层无窗，但内部有水井、磨房、锅灶，甚至有隐蔽的厕所。二到六层有窗，方便通风换气，还可以进行攻击，这是村民避难的场所。七层最高，建有一个楼阁，四面围以垛口，是主要的攻击和防御的工事。站在豫楼最高处，可以俯瞰整个郭峪村，远山起伏，近水奔流，寨墙高耸，雉堞嶙峋，和豫楼相互呼应，形成了完整的防御体系。这里的寨墙包以青砖，墙外以自然的河流作为城壕，整个村寨共开三个村门，其一为水门。如今只剩下东北两面的寨墙还保存着，墙很高，估计有十几米，在内侧开有可以容纳村丁的窑洞，最高的地方竟有五层窑洞。地道、寨墙和豫楼，三位一体形成了郭峪村严密的防御体系，其实这也是山西许多富裕村落相近的防御模式。害人之心不可有，防人之心不可无，中国人普遍有着这样的处事心理，体现在村落建设上则充分考虑了防守的重要作用。山西作为中原内地重要的省份，晋南、晋东南地区也因从地里位置上接近隋唐宋的政治中心带长安——洛阳——开封，较早就进入了繁荣兴盛的时期，村落发展比较完备严密，是南方其它地区无法比拟的。是否有坚固的寨墙可以作为村落建设成熟与否的重要标志。
古人不仅希望居住的安全，更希望居住的美好，因而风水的营造也是村落营造的重要内容，这在沁水县西文兴村体现的更好些。西文兴村是唐宋八大家之一柳宗元后人建立的村落，全村皆为柳姓。柳宗元因在政治斗争中失利被贬永州，为防止家人因此受害特地要求后人搬离故乡河东解州（运城）。当他的后人来到王屋山的腹地，感觉这里山水环绕风水无双，就正式安家落户了。直到明朝末年，默默无闻了好多代的柳家人终于走出大山去经商做官，发达后就开始了新一轮大规模的村落营造工程，目前的西文兴村就是这时期的产物。风水之说，也不完全是封建迷信的东西，环境美学上的意义且不必说，单是对于村民心理上的凝聚作用也有重要的价值。西文兴村依托北面的凤凰山而建，山势森然，卧虎藏龙。左有东山“三台左抱”，右有西岭“九岗右环”，面前一带平川，遥遥对着南面的二龙戏珠山。一条西文兴河缓缓绕过村子流向远方。四周林木繁美，土地开阔肥沃，的的确确是块吉壤。村子的建设也是由北向南铺开，北部是内府区，由若干个两进或者三进的四合院落组成，每进四合院都是“四大八小”的格局，有明显的晋东南民居风格，这些院落是族人居住的主要场所；中部为牌坊街和文昌阁等建筑，是连接内外的中枢；南部是外府区，有关帝庙、魁星楼、宗祠、文庙等公共建筑，是村民集会的场所。因为整个村子的地势是北高南低，为防止风水外泄，村南修了很高的平台和寨墙，关帝庙和魁星楼也建的比较高，人为弥补了自然的不足。在村口的河上修一座石桥，起到水口的作用。河流在风水中作用很大，即要方便饮用灌溉，还要避免泛滥，更作为了村子财富和运气的象征，因此水是不能轻易流走的，往往是挖个小湖或者建座小桥，约束一下，好比是把财运挡在了村子里一样，这类建筑就是水口。在村子南面的二龙戏珠山上还建有柳氏后人的坟茔，虽然没去，据说也是风水极盛的。阳宅（村子）和阴宅（坟墓）相互配合形成了一整套的村落风水。这样的营造和构建需要极大的财力支持，同时也需要很强的村落向心力。从古代村落的建设上我深刻感到宗族礼法的巨大作用，应该说这种力量有积极和建设性的一面。五四运动后，宗族礼法基本上和封建主义紧密地挂上了钩，于是成了被批判和颠覆的反动力量。但我却觉得对于有着亿兆人民的中国来说，如果以农为本的经济生活形态不彻底改变，就不应该抛弃宗族伦理的治理作用。把劳动力紧紧束缚在土地上是宗族制度最大的弊端，但相应的维持伦理秩序的优势一面也不应该全然放弃。
明朝末年柳氏后人经商致富后，开始举全村之力建造西文兴村；到柳遇春一代则开始出仕为官，村落的建造达到了最高潮。这和山西地区许多村落的发迹道路基本相同，从务农而经商，由富裕到为官，累积财富，兴建家园。随意走在西文兴村之中，美好的建筑随处可见，也许因为山高皇帝远，很多建筑还因为主人的喜好超出了礼法的规制，有着相对自由活泼的美。例如司马第的大门，竟然有九重斗拱上六下三，壮观异常，即便是皇宫没有这样张扬的门楣，堪称一绝。虽然现如今这里早已衰落，豪华宅院也都是几户村民的分而居住，但是那些挂满辣椒玉米的楼板，那些摆着杂物瓜果的窗台，还保存着极精致的木雕、砖雕、石雕，比起灵石的王家大院也不显逊色。即便在垫了街道、垒了猪圈的石块当中，我还发现了完整的“四狮如意（事事如意）”的石雕照壁底座。生活仿佛是一个轮回，如今西文兴村又成了个穷村，百姓以种地为生，养牛作为副业。山川秀美风水绝伦不能真正带来富裕，闭塞的交通却成了致富的障碍。这里有个山西历史与现代的矛盾，历史和现代山西的地理环境并没有什么不同，古代的山西人走了出去创造了财富的神话，今天的山西人守在本乡本土靠挖煤却依旧贫穷。古代的山西人发达了却没有用那些车载斗量的金银变换出更丰盈的财富，而是搬回深山修筑起富丽甲于天下的深宅大院，今天的山西人千篇一律地恢复着一个又一个大院争取着游客和财富。不能说谁对谁错，只能说时也命也。
在山西层层黄土之上，条条沟岭之间，一定还有许多寂寞的村落，或许他们曾经闪烁过一瞬的辉煌，或许始终默默无闻，但在那些本乡本土的村民心中，生于斯长于斯的故土故园才是最美好的，那是一种我们这些外乡人无法体味的美好。谁又能说寂寞不也是一种美丽吗？
六、庙观重重
“上车睡觉，下车看庙”是对山西旅行诙谐地描述，在辽阔的山西大地上散落着占中国总数百分之七十的古建筑和文物，而其中绝大多数都是寺观庙宇。田间地头寻常巷陌里常常隐藏着黄墙一角，时时鸣响着暮鼓晨钟。同行的朋友戏言山西一行把他一生要看得庙宇都看完了。而我则深深地感到此行经过的每一处寺观都闪烁着独特的文化光芒。
不必说遍及山西的关帝庙，也不必说晋水之源的晋祠，更不必说清凉佛界的五台山，单是平遥城中的城隍庙和双林寺就很有看头。每一个城镇乡村都有一个本乡本土的保护神，城镇上称为城隍，乡村里叫做土地，他们往往在历史上确有其人，做出过非凡的义举，庇佑过当地的百姓，于是建设庙堂以祭奠。按照正统的说法城隍属于五品官员，比七品县令的官阶要高，所以在平遥城中城隍庙建在城东，居于县衙的左边等级更高一些。我比较喜欢这里的琉璃，城隍庙中所有的屋顶都采用土黄和湖蓝的琉璃瓦铺就，殿脊上有琉璃砖雕的人物走兽和楼阁，完整而出彩，据说这种蓝色准确地称呼应该是孔雀蓝，如今烧制这种色彩的琉璃工艺已经失传。古人把满心的崇敬用各种方式表达出来，的确不是毫无信仰的现代人可以理解的。双林寺的名头更大了，被贯以彩塑博物馆的名号，可见不同凡响。我是冒着雨骑着车赶到双林寺参观的，因为时候尚早游人很少，看见我骑着破车灰尘满面的样子，连卖工艺品的小贩也懒得搭理我，正好方便我自由清静地游览。双林寺规模不小，前后四进，主要的彩塑分布在天王殿、菩萨殿，最出名的彩塑有韦陀、自在观音和渡海观音（因为大殿维修，没有看到），这些彩塑的确很有特色，不像明清的塑像那么高高在上，而保持着一种自由活泼的造型风格，比如韦陀扭曲成“S”型的身姿和自在观音翘的老高一条腿。出于保护的目的，双林寺所有的殿堂都用通天的铁栏杆封了起来，游人只能模模糊糊地看看，多少有些失望。正碰到一个学习美术的小伙子用黄泥临摹一条佛祖莲台下的小龙，忍不住上前攀谈。得知他要在这里学习一年，临摹所有的彩塑作品。寺里每天收费60元，草草算来也不是一个小数目，对于正在学习的穷学生来说负担也不轻。分别以后，他又坐在大殿的门槛上思索造型，看着他的背影让我联想到张大千临摹敦煌壁画的背影，真心地祝愿他成功！
相比名声大振的双林寺，深藏在吕梁山里的隰县小西天悬塑和蒲县东岳庙泥塑，以灿烂的技艺和恢宏的气势给了我更大的震撼。
隰县县城往西一公里的凤凰山上就是小西天，又称千佛庵，我倒觉得称为万佛庵也不为过。山脚一方弯月的池塘，林畔一架玲珑的石桥，接引着我走进小西天的胜境，走上百级石阶，穿过一道洞天，山门就在眼前了。因为地形的局促，罗列着的许多殿堂规模都很小，大雄宝殿也不像平常的寺庙那么壮阔。攀着木梯走到寺庙的最上一层，才到了全寺的精华。佛经上说如来佛祖之上还有三十三重天，十万个佛祖菩萨，小西天就在大雄宝殿之上修葺了五孔窑洞，当真用悬塑再现了这重重的天幕和无数的菩萨。走进殿内，举目所见都是满天飞舞着的神佛，大的竟有几人高低，小的只是拇指大小。除了佛像，还有无数的楼阁宝塔，飞禽走兽，奇花异草，人心中的极乐世界被虔诚的演绎着，即便我这个不信神佛的人站在这里，也有一种想拜倒下去的冲动。正在留连间，遇到一个五台山来挂单的和尚，与他攀谈，方才知道这些造像的究竟：正面五位佛祖分别是“药师”、“弥陀”、“释迦”、“毗卢”和“弥勒”；分站五佛两旁的是十大菩萨；殿南山墙上塑着“四方三圣”、“四大天王”；殿北山墙上塑着须弥山上三十三层“仞利天”，还有佛传故事和释迦牟尼的本生传说；大梁上是八大金刚，粱柱间是极乐世界；十二个乐伎菩萨，飞在各处表演着天界的歌舞。飞天、神鸟、孔雀、鹦鹉、仙鹤点缀在层层迭迭、云雾缭绕的天宫楼阁之间，一派仙宫佛国的迷人景象。这样的悬塑珍品在全中国也是独一份，也不枉我千里迢迢来看一遭。
东岳庙坐落在蒲县的柏山上。柏山之下两水环抱，柏山之上遍植松柏，环山路而上，越走越幽静，经过招魂台，转过华佗庙，蒲县胜景的东岳庙就在眼前。百十米长的一条蹬道直通山门，两旁是土地庙、将军祠、御马廊等等配属建筑。山门里一幅对联很有意思：伐吾山林吾勿语，伤汝性命汝难逃。或许因为这幅对联，柏山的树木多少得到了保全。东岳大帝黄飞虎是泰山的正神，执掌天地间的善恶祸福，兼管地府里的幽冥鬼事。这里是他的行宫，规制很全规模很大，不是乡间小庙可以比拟。行宫正殿屋脊重重、巍峨壮丽；大殿前有乐楼、看台、金水桥和献殿；大殿后是寝宫、子孙娘娘庙和天堂阁；四周环绕着两层的廊房，下为管理人间祸福的各级衙门，上为立满石碑的抄手游廊。走到最后有两个小石拱门，上有匾额——“地狱”。走进地狱之门，一道石梯斜斜向下幽暗深长，前后左右没有别的游人，整个庙宇只听见风声鸟鸣，心里还真有些惶惶然。正左顾右盼间，猛见一具泥塑判官正怒目直指，更增恐怖，赶紧三两脚走完地狱之路。地狱的第一层是阴曹，分为东曹和西曹，里面各有三个判官还有被审判的亡人，西曹中有一组泥塑：坐着的岳飞父子和跪着的秦桧夫妻，真是善恶到头中有报。两阴曹间有菩萨殿，居中是地藏王菩萨，左右有观音菩萨和火焰明王。地藏王菩萨有大誓愿“我不入地狱谁入地狱，度不尽冤魂不返阳间”，如今誓愿尚未成功，只好在阴间继续普度众生。观音菩萨代表着慈悲，救度着尚有良善之心的阴魂；火焰明王象征着严厉，恶贯满盈仍不思悔改者必被真火烧尽永世不得超生。菩萨殿前还有十八级台阶，意思是十八层地狱，走下去就来到地狱的第二层。这里仿佛一个天井，有点象平陆的地窨子，北东西三面共十五孔窑洞相连，构成了五岳大帝和十殿阎王齐全的地狱山，十八层地狱里的景象在阎王殿内一一展现，一百四十多尊真人大小的明代泥塑演绎着无常恶鬼、牛头马面、种种酷刑、件件故事，阴阳界、奈何桥、望乡台、孟婆汤各种传说应有尽有，真可谓是叹为观止！整组泥塑作品是东岳庙的珍宝，即使在全国如此完整的泥塑作品也很罕见，几乎可以和丰都鬼城相媲美。除了泥塑，东岳庙可看的东西还很多，比如行宫大殿的斗拱梁柱上或泥塑、或木雕、或彩绘的民间故事，比如子孙娘娘庙的窗台上用来还愿的婴儿小鞋，还比如元代献殿四根风格内容完全不同的石雕盘龙柱子。另外这里也是山西重要的地方戏——蒲剧的发源地，一个东岳庙里有三个乐楼戏台，每年庙会的时候，三台大戏同时上演互争短长，整个东岳庙行宫大院挤满了十里八乡的乡亲戏迷。据说也不是所有的戏班子都可以进东岳庙的，各个班子先在庙外比个高低，优胜了的名角名班才能上戏台演大戏。一座东岳庙，汇聚了人们求福、求禄、求财、求寿、求阴功、求来生的所有愿望，也就难怪它从宋元至今一直香火不断了！
如果说芮城永乐宫是山西最名至实归的地方一点也不为过。永乐宫全名大纯阳万寿宫，是在元朝奉敕令修建的，前后用了一百一十年才建成，是道教全真派三大祖庭之一（道教全真派三大祖庭是山西芮城永乐宫——供奉吕洞宾；陕西终南山重阳宫——供奉王重阳；北京白云观——供奉邱处机），也是国内现存最大的道教建筑群。它原本建在吕洞宾的故乡永乐镇上，一九五九年因为兴修三门峡水库历时六年搬迁到此。永乐宫的元代古建筑主要是四个大殿：龙虎殿（也是宫门）、无极之殿（三清殿）、纯阳之殿、重阳之殿，其中三清殿是主殿，是元代庑殿顶减柱法木构建筑，雄浑凝重，斗拱上布满木雕行龙、蟠龙、游龙，更显壮观。三清殿内就是国之瑰宝——壁画《朝元图》。三清是指原始天尊、太上老君、灵宝道君，三清合一，是为无极，所以三清殿又称无极殿。朝元图画的就是道教的诸多神祗朝拜原始天尊的场景。在大殿的所有墙壁上共画有二百八十六个人物，其中有皇天（玉皇大帝）、厚土、东王公、西王母、紫微、勾陈、南极长生、东极救苦八位主神，围绕着主神大像还有二十八宿、星辰日月、山神河伯、丰都鬼王、元帅神将，甚至青龙白虎，天丁玉女等等形象，云气缭绕，袍带生辉。整个殿堂的画面前后呼应，左右逢源，千姿百态，栩栩如生，达到了工笔重彩人物画的高峰。立粉帖金技法更增加了画面的立体感，使得壁上人物呼之欲出。据说画师是唐代画圣吴道子的传人，仔细观摩确有吴带当风的气韵。和民间绘画的随意率真不同，永乐宫壁画雍容华贵整饬严谨，完全是宫廷风格。永乐宫的管理人员告诉我：元朝是个不重视艺术的朝代，宫廷画师流落民间，依靠绘制庙宇壁画谋生，不经意间成就了元代壁画的艺术价值。当我问到那些繁而不乱一气呵成的线条的绘制方法时，他告诉我在搬迁整理永乐宫时发现了一件一米多长的木杆，木杆一头用铁丝固定，猜测可能是用来绑住毛笔的，画师站在架子上手持木杆进行绘制，这样长逾数米的线条就可以一挥而就了。但我还是有些怀疑，如果真是这样，那画师需要多么高深的气力才能完成这件工作啊！后来我查询相关的资料，得知当时可能不是用毛笔，而是用一种草来绘制壁画的，这种草和芦苇相似，长约一米，内部中空，既直且韧，固定在木杆上，注满墨汁以勾勒线条，这样就能保证画出的线条粗细一致刚健有力。永乐宫中除却三清殿的朝元图，其他大殿的所有墙壁上都有绘画，主要是青绿山水连环画，讲述的是吕洞宾和王重阳的传奇故事。壁画是脆弱的，日晒雨淋墙毁屋塌都能造成无法弥补的损失。如何保护好这些国宝确实需要下更大的功夫，解决好保护和旅游的矛盾也是迫在眉睫。希望这一次的相见不会成为永别，如果未来有机会，我愿意再次走进这壁画艺术的殿堂。
山西寺院俯拾皆是，据说和逢庙必拜的阎锡山有莫大关系。我倒觉着这是山西民风使然。民心向富，崇鬼敬神，自然有了余力就会修庙以保长远。不必计较那些跪倒在神佛面前的善男信女，多留心那些巍峨的殿宇，迷人的艺术也是莫大的收获。文化往往就是用人们最习惯的方式传承到了今天，撩开那熟悉的面纱，我们也许会发现更深沉的民族性格。走过这些林林总总的寺院道观，仿佛再次走进了历史。抚摸着那些廊柱雕塑，观摩着那些彩绘壁画，聆听着那些钟鼓之声，我感到的是古人对生活的领悟和对幸福的向往。
七、走近晋商
小时候常听到一种说法：“山西人，九毛九”，说的是山西人的吝啬，于是很自然地以为那是由于山西贫困的缘故。后来读余秋雨的《抱愧山西》，为山西自古贫穷的说法摘了帽子，于是又很自然对山西的富足抱有幻想。直到我游历了山西一番后才对山西的贫和富，有着更清晰地认识。而写到山西的穷和富，都离不开山西的商人。
山西商人很早就有，从隋唐时期经营晋南盐业开始计算如今已经有一千多年了。那时中国的政治经济文化的中心是“西安——洛阳——开封”一线，晋南和晋东南因为地理位置的优势，本身又有盐和煤的资源，兴盛的比较早。元明清以后，中国政治经济的中心北移南迁，山西的经济中心也变迁了。平遥、太谷、祁县因为处于通向北京的要道，并可以通过张家口与外蒙相连而逐渐兴盛。山西商人因为贸易发家，最终以票号闻名，在清朝中后期达到了历史的最高峰。山西商帮也成为了中国所有商帮中的领袖。可惜这份繁荣如烟花般灿烂，也如烟花般消散，辛亥革命后逐步崩溃没落，虽然孔祥熙仍然富甲天下，但是不可争议的事实是江浙沪的商人才是主宰中国经济的决定力量。山西退出了中国商业经济的舞台，应该是历史的必然。
我的山西之行，从太原开始，经过祁县、平遥和灵石，直到晋东南的阳城和晋南的运城。一路走来，我直观上感觉的是山西的贫瘠，对于一个农耕为主的中国来说，这样山丘纵横的土地确实无法填满老百姓的肚子。而像煤、铁和盐的资源在古代完全是国家垄断的，百姓不能从中获得任何好处。 《易经》上有：“穷则变、变则通、通则久”的治理名言。这方水土不养人，那就只有离开出去讨生活。漫漫离乡路，辛苦自己知。一朝得发迹，荣归不嫌迟。多少走出口外的人倒在了路旁成为孤魂野鬼，也有多少人吃尽辛苦终于富裕了，然后就带出更多的亲朋好友出外谋生。走出去成为了山西人的一种自主的意识，成为了山西人经商的精神基础，也成为了山西人发家致富的根本动力。因贫致富，富极而贫，两者统一地体现在了明清晋商的身上。这种相互矛盾相互转化的客观现象，应该有它必然的外在和内部的原因。外在的原因从中国近现代的历史就可以知道，而内部的埋藏在山西人心灵深处的性格原因是什么呢？
山西民谚：金太谷、银祁县、平遥的铜钱数不完。祁、太、平三大商帮正是山西商人中最鼎盛的三支，也都因为票号的经营成就了非凡的事业。如今那些银子元宝车载斗量的票号完全湮灭了，仅剩下一些遗迹供人参观，最为典型的就是平遥的日升昌票号。
日升昌是否是中国第一家票号还需要论证，目前太谷和祁县都找出一些证据说自己境内的某个票号才是中国票号的老祖宗，这多少受旅游业的影响。但雷履泰经营染布庄最终改制成为票号的故事早已经深入人心，而且日升昌为中国影响最大获利最多的票号也是不争的事实。 “汇通天下”的御赐金匾依然挂在大堂之上，昭示着它往日的辉煌。游览过日升昌票号的人，一定对于它的密码体系、地下金库记忆很深，而我则对它在经营中的一些理念更感兴趣。
第一是责权明确。东家的所有权和掌柜的经营权分开，大掌柜负责经营和三掌柜负责内务分开，账房和信房分开，存款和取款分开，以及跑街和收账分开等等。这些责权的明确分离保证了整个票号良好的运营环境，避免了过多的人事纠纷，因此这里人员精简，效率很高。一般总号也就是二三十个人，分号七八个人就能开张了。第二是重视人才。身股的概念把票号中所有的雇员都紧紧抓住了，大家成为休戚相关的整体，很好地保证了人员的稳定性和积极性。同时通过一整套的升迁和奖惩机制着重发现和培养了人才，并通过身股的分配关系突出了对人才的重视和保护。第三是积少成多。票号主要从事存取业务，汇兑业务和贷款业务，其中最核心的就是汇兑业务。票号从汇兑的费率，银钱的兑换上都有周密的考虑，充分发挥积少成多的作用，创造出重要的收入来源。第四是官商结合，第五是扶植同乡，这些就不赘言了。正因为制度上的保证，又顺应了当时中国经济的发展，晋商很自然就走在了时代的前头。这些制度在票号建立之初就基本确立了，经过了上百年的经营并没有多少改变。任何事物都是两面的，不发展优势也很容易走向反面。比如东家和掌柜的关系使得东家日益远离经营的中心，使得很多决策往往滞后于市场的发展。再比如因为与政权的关系过于紧密，清王朝的灭亡使得票号成了覆巢之卵。商人在中国古代的传统中都是社会的末流，他们努力的挣扎，始终无法改变弱者的命运，无论他们用多少银钱堆叠出了壮丽的门楼，还是通过捐官得到了灿烂的顶戴，但历史命运的悲剧，仍然无可避免！人不能脱离他生活的时代，也无法改变环境赋予他的性格。走在日升昌票号中，抚摸着嵌着铜板的厚厚的砖墙，我不免感叹像雷履泰这样敢于变革的人毕竟是少数。山西商人中因循守旧的性格特点比较突出，也因此失去了他们最后转制成为银行的发展机会。其实山西商人在经营中的守旧特点在清朝后期北方的票号与南方的钱庄的交锋中就可以发现，虽然当时钱庄因为受到外来资本冲击较早较深而过早的退出了历史舞台，但他们灵活的经营模式也的确冲击了票号的发展。很可惜这些身居山西的老财主们并没有吸取这个经验教训，反而标榜自己的稳妥作法是取胜的关键。这种基于农耕制度的保守经营心态也是山陕等内地商人很重要的性格特征。
靠贸易和票号致富的山西人，无一例外地为自己修筑起了壮丽的宅院。我先后去了祁县的乔家大院和灵石的王家大院。乔家以严谨整饬让我感慨，王家用精巧壮丽让我心动，各有各的好处，各有各的特色。但从总体上说，也有许多相似的特性，也能反映出主人共同的性格。一部电影《大红灯笼高高挂》让乔家大院名满中外，如今红灯笼也成了所有山西宅院最重要的点缀，不过我还是宁愿把它遗忘，还原历史的真实。
乔家大院正门开在一条小巷之中，四面都是几人高的院墙，门外是百寿图的照壁，两边对联“存天理以覆人欲，蓄道德而能文章”，是左宗棠的手笔，整个一幅儒商的装扮。走进门内，一条笔直的甬路直通小小的祠堂，两旁六个独立且连通的院落，北面院落为三进，轩昂壮丽；南面院落为两进，略微低矮。院落房子的高低大小觉得了居住主人的高低尊卑，处处显示着封建礼法的严谨。所有的房屋和门楣都装饰得富丽堂皇，雕刻的精致繁盛，屋脊上连绵的福云流淌着主人对生活所有的企盼和向往。不过房子虽大，住起来也并不舒服。比方说住宅内没有一处花园，高墙深院，一片灰色，实在是了无生趣。相比起来王家要好一些，也许因为乔家始终是商人，而王家由商而官的缘故，王家的高家崖和红门堡壮观的可以和皇宫相比，每一个细小的地方都被木雕、石雕和砖雕充满着，可以算是我去过的最富丽豪华的住宅，很难想象这仅仅是一个山西土财主的乡下院落。尤其是红门堡被整体规划成一条龙的样子，宅门是龙头，中间一条甬路是龙身，寨墙上的望楼是龙尾，而且每一个房脊都是龙头，这样张狂的气势也只能用天高皇帝远来解释了。两个大院我都请了导游细细的讲解，从中知道了一些乔家和王家的发家故事。两家都出身寒微，几代人辛苦积累，逐渐成为一方的豪强。这也是所有晋商同样走过的道路。家族兴盛时也都很注重子女的教育，有比较严格的家规族约，这是两家都能够长时间兴旺的保障，乔家直到抗战爆发才弃家而走，王家也富裕长达八代人一两百年。大院中到处都是对联篇额，比如“读书好经商好效好便好，创业难守业难知难不难”、“惜衣惜食缘是惜福”、“知足阁”、“学吃亏”等等，倒也都是些教化的至理名言。但是在这一片繁荣的背后，似乎也能看到一些不合适的地方。晋商富裕以后都花大力气修建宅院，这一方面反映了他们陈旧的意识，也说明了在当时的历史条件下超前的经济实力没有再投资的途径。修建无比壮丽的住宅成了多余的浮财唯一的去处。构筑这样得金银窝只能是虚张声势，而生长在这样安乐窝里的子孙们也只有奢侈腐败的必然命运了。如今各地都保留着很多山陕会馆，也一样的轩辕壮丽，这种穷极乍富的奢侈铺张也是山西商人的一个性格弱点，他们忘却了祖先创业的艰难，忘却了经商中克勤克俭、诚实守信、积少成多、相互协同的真理，成为许多山西商人败落的直接原因和外在表现。
吃苦耐劳，锐意进取的美德使得晋商发家致富了；奢侈浮华，因循守旧的劣根却让晋商惨淡失败。历史时代前进的无法阻挡，晋商只能是作为封建时代回光返照的一现昙花。我曾经疑惑过封建制度是否真的阻挡了经济的发展，因为我从晋商、徽商身上好像发现了反例。如今仔细想来，基于土地农耕的中国封建制度从根本上约束了人们的思想形态，因而商人在这种制度里不可能真正做出超越时代的作为。晋商的繁荣有他必然的原因，比如自身的努力奋斗，团体性的协作发展，以及封建社会两千年来积累起的财富等等，但从根本上来说靠流通发家的晋商并没有改变生产关系和生产结构，没有能力推进生产力的划时代发展，于是他们只是聚集了社会中的财富，最终也挥霍掉了这些财富而已。这真应了一句老话，钱财如流水，历史碰巧让这些流水涌进了晋商的漩涡，历史也终将把这些流水抽离出来涌向别处。从这个角度来说，封建制度过于强大的土地约束作用的确是阻碍近代中国经济的发展。
我先后去过安徽和山西，了解了一些封建时代商人的生活轨迹，这留给我的思考很多很多，有关于历史，更有关于现实。如今这些曾经辉煌后又衰落的商家宅院，因为旅游重又兴盛了起来。在我看来，它们与其说是旧时代商人的纪念碑，不如说是他们历史悲剧命运的墓志铭。
八、走笔山西
从山西回来三个月后，我又通过笔墨文字重新走了一回山西。时间没有磨灭我的印象，许多精华之处更为熠熠生辉。山西之行是一次我对黄河黄土文化再认识的过程。虽然走的太急促，看得太匆忙，但山西丰富的历史文化和人文的内涵还是触及到了我的思想深处。作为中国人，有必要很好的认识我们的祖先，认识我们的过去，山西恰好保留了许多资源，使得我可以把书本的知识和眼前的实物一一印证。黄仁宇提倡一种大历史观，我很赞成这个观点，历史不是刻板的考据，而是综合经济、文化、政治，甚至习惯、风俗和心理的研究。学习历史也是研究自己的一种方法，经过游历增长的知识与谨慎思考获得的感悟结合起来，就是人生的智慧。
黄河是中华民族的文化之根，晋祠也是山西地方的文化之源，饮水思源，写这两个地方算是我的一种尊重吧。但壶口瀑布带给我的远比我想象的要多，站在她的面前我更感到一种震撼、一种畏惧。 “好大的水啊！”这是我对瀑布的感叹，更是我对中国传统文明的感叹。时而水涨，时而水落，时而高峰，时而低谷，不管世人如何看待，中国传统文化的根正如这滔滔黄水天上而来，正如这滚滚浊涛奔流而去，永永远远在你我中国人的心中。许多学者认为中华文化已经断根，我不这么认为，今天的中国依旧是中国，那种文化的传承没有终结，还记得盘古开天女娲造人的传说吗？还记得三国群雄汉唐遗风的故事吗？还记得史记汉书诗词歌赋的文字吗？这些文化的水流早已经汇聚成为这无边无际汹涌澎湃的大水，冲击在我们的心头。这种文化的传承从我们还是摇篮里的婴儿就开始了，从老祖母的呢喃儿歌声中就开始了。今天我站在黄河的面前，亲耳听到那流水之声，也唤起了我心底里的文化之声。黄河的美决定了中国人的审美取向，也就决定了中国人的文化取向。
中国的传统文化和西方的很不同，古代的大思想家很少把精力放在纯粹学术的探讨上，经世之学多重实用，可以说中国古人传下来的学问全是实用的哲学。长久以来这些先哲的智慧逐步形成了我们中国人相对统一的传统社会观——伦理治国，信义传家。晋祠的剪桐封弟讲的就是信，山西的关公崇拜说的就是义，不要小看这简简单单两个字，它们依然是中国人普遍的价值判断标准。许多中华民族的传统美德就来源于这种伦理的精神，伦理在中国不是一种学问，而是一种治理世界的方法。与西方的神权哲学相比，伦理哲学要亲切很多，至少它是一种可以体验的哲学，我们不用等到去了所谓的那个世界才能验证，只要简单的体会一下爱父母爱子女爱亲人的心就可以明白伦理的力量。中国的治国哲学不是用来崇拜的，它很切实地走了一条“修身齐家治国平天下”的自然道路。平遥古城就是伦理治世的一个标本，从古城的遗迹中我们都能感受到一种平衡中和的美来。可以把哲学这么枯燥的学问，治世这么严酷的手段，转化成为一种美凝固下来，不仅凝固成为砖瓦，而且凝固成为中国人的心灵，不得不让后人钦敬。我们今天说稳定是基础，这个稳定的法门两千年前孔夫子就告诉了大家，那就是伦理的秩序。
中国的文化虽然历史悠远，稳定自然，但却始终不是一个僵化的体系。从根本上来说实用主义的态度是它可以兼收并蓄的基础。珍珠虽小，光鉴四方，中国文化的核很小，但外延却非常深广。先秦两汉的百家争鸣，汉晋隋唐的佛教汉化都是一种文化的融合，洋务运动、五四思潮、直到今天的改革开放，虽然手段或轻或重，效果或好或坏，始终都没有改变文化的核心，那就是中国人心中依然看重的伦理思想，所以始终都是一个融合的过程，而不是一个颠覆的过程。看看那些散布在寂寞乡村里的重重庙观，也许他们早已经残破了，但存在着就是一种力量。即便是在中国农业社会中最被轻视的商贾，也在黄土堆积的山陕大地上曾经蓬勃的发展过。中国文化是包罗万象的，有儒的忠直、道的飘逸、禅的智慧、法的理性、兵的诡变、玄的虚空，虽然千变万化，但顺应时势，重视实用的态度却是相同的。达则兼济天下，穷则独善其身，不论形势如何，伦理的核心也是一样的。超出了这个界限的文化现象则必然面对改变或者覆亡的命运，比如佛教本来没有孝的观念，而在中国却很突出了这一点，就是一种变革。在这个伦理框架以内，任何思想在中国的文化大家庭中都可以得以发展。这也正是中国文化的生命力的所在。
斗转星移，日月如梭，几千年是这么匆匆逝去了。文化好像都要到古老的书本中去寻找，到破败的寺庙中去寻找，到沧桑的遗迹中去寻找了。其实不然，文化应该在生活中去寻找。在山西的旅程中，虽然去了许许多多的古寺大院，老城旧镇，但更让我快乐的则是百姓生活中切切实实的衣食住行的乐趣，和其中蕴含的文化情趣。
和其他地方一样，山西也有许多的特产，记忆最深的就是一路的吃食。有说得上名的：山西汾酒、晋祠小枣、清徐陈醋、平遥牛肉、太谷烧饼、沁水山菌、解州泡馍……还有没什么名气的但味道不错的：霍州饸洛面、莜面靠姥姥、狗肉火锅、扣肉混沌、不烂子、碗秃子、喇嘛肉……几乎每吃一种东西，就有一个故事，吃着美味，听着故事，旅途也就不再寂寞了。其实这也是文化，文化并不总是庙堂里面的东西，民间的文化气息更丰富而活泼。曾经读过一部书《黄河十四走》，讲的就是各种黄河边的民间艺术品，就很有乐趣。可惜没有记录多少吃的文化，算是一个遗憾。再有一路听了很多的老百姓的生活点滴，也是一种不错的经历。山村里面路过的丧事，深藏在山沟里的炼焦厂洗煤厂和小铁厂，听来的霍州地下盗版图书事业，还有什么地方小官吏如何过生日娶媳妇的故事等等，亲眼见到的童工和亲耳听到的童工微薄的收入，到司机家里去吃只有咸菜就饼子的早餐，皇城相府村支书带领大家放弃挖煤而搞旅游业致富等等。每每听到这些故事，我总和说故事的人一样的情绪，或者欢乐，或者悲伤，或者喜悦，或者愤怒，我们有着同样的情感，说明我们有着同样的价值判断。虽然我和这些人有着很不相同的生活经历和社会身份，但我们有着同样的伦理思想，这就是我们共同的文化传承造就的我们统一的民族性格。而其中微妙的文化情趣使得我的记忆丰富了许多许多。
走笔山西，任意而行。也许是因为我生长在同样是黄土厚重的西安的缘故，我对山西有一种熟悉的情感。能够写到的感受其实只是我见闻感触的冰山一角，能够发现的故事也只是山西大地上丰富生活的沧海一粟。我始终摆脱不了一个外乡人和旅行者的角色，这就注定我不能更深入的走进山西人的世界里，我只是一个旁观者，只是一个热爱中国传统文化的旅人，记录下这段行程，这种文化，是我站在黄河岸边面对滚滚流水的一个承诺，也是我对自己文化根源的一种探究。
写到最后，想起了山西左权的一首民歌——
“啊……
桃花来你就红来，
杏花来你就白。
爬山越岭寻你来呀，
啊格呀呀呆。 "
(End)
Author: KANGKANG1975
