Jiangnan sketches of the three: Scenes in Yangzhou
I was not familiar with Yangzhou, but I have always believed that he and Yangzhou, there should be a date bar, and this date, just a few days ago has finally become a reality.
When reading, I do not have much sense of Yangzhou, and, although the school had "Spring Breeze Yangzhou ten-mile road", but the jerky Classical in. This headache of my high school, remember the words, but no real experience and a little bit of impression. Until the years goes by, the work of I, I know more and more about Yangzhou Anecdotal evidence, such as the nationally known bath, such as the famous beauty of the country's fireworks in March. But the real let me tempted to Yangzhou, more of that from Wudi Qing song "Fireworks in March" songs, beautiful melodies as well as the MV screen, gave me a mesmerizing, the sky on the discussion boards Yanminghu西祠胡同of years, so far also often read out to listen to and enjoy. In 2002, Mianyang, Sichuan Province, he met a small group from Yangzhou by foot, then have to go there Every time I go home in Mianyang Hotel and colleagues to go along with a bath, and then talk about a number of juveniles with Yangzhou Yangzhou story. He comes from guazhou, when informed that the names, the less versed in classical Chinese myself, I actually once thought of that first poem of Wang An-shih: "River water flow, Bian water flow, flow guazhou Furuwatari head." Guazhou, Yangzhou, which is what a magnificent picture it?
From Zhenjiang to Yangzhou, buses surprisingly more than I originally thought it was to go through Nazuo Runyang - the one who met in 2002 in Yangzhou Young once told me that this bridge is from his home in front of passing and that he is he is going to return home after the opening of the bridge to buy a taxi business - Zhenjiang, a bus took us along the street called Runzhou road ahead, straight to the place does not bridge, but the car ferry terminal, is far Office of the bridge being built among the bar is said to be completed soon. Car onto the ferry, I naturally out of the car, looked at the ships cross the Yangtze River. The Yangtze River, I've not remember how many times their own close contact with them, in the upstream of Chongqing, I had the night cruise on the fortress overlooking Wanjiadenghuo, Relax Jiang Feng refreshing, in Yibin, my colleagues and I have In the Riverside Avenue, walk, and we imitate the riverside of the boatman pull fiber sculpture, doing the action; in from upstream to the middle of Yichang, Three Gorges, before I had the privilege of a tour of today can no longer see the Three Gorges scenery. A beautiful river, and carries out a number of colorful cultures, ages, but also had much ancestors footsteps in between vagrancy, and we in the face of the ancient Yangtze River Plank Road, in addition to lamenting the years beyond the vicissitudes of life on the left under too much sad. This time, when you see the wide river surface and the distance of the bridge and the ship, that's the first TV episode naturally slipped out of my mouth: the rolling Yangtze River East PASSING, spray淘尽hero. When all of the stories have been passed, there are always things that can be left behind it, the Yangtze River flowing time immemorial, we could not destined reunion with the ancients, but we like them, are in this vast river between the growth of interest-bearing, then it also there were like me and so when the imagination at crossing the Yangtze River? I can not answer myself, I only know that, living such an arrangement I have with a blend of the Yangtze River, to me, is a blessing bar.
The car ferry 10 minutes after the first time I set foot on the land of Yangzhou. From the pier to Yangzhou, is not wide but it seems a very straight asphalt, the trees on both sides below the knee are of white paint on the brush, so that entire neighborhoods are extraordinarily beautiful. I can not help thinking from Chengdu in Sichuan Province apprehensive on the way to the same is true of a narrow asphalt road a bit, but also threw a white fitted on both sides of the trees as straight as sentries stood there, if you want to describe the feeling of countryside, it is definitely is not, or lack of background and material.
To Yangzhou, the entire city is about to usher in the train pass the first time in history, inspired by a newspaper every day in the calculation of the distance of April 18 countdown number of days, "the train times happy life" has become the Yangzhou Evening News of a column. All this reminds me of the time when the opening of the Beijing-Kowloon Railway Times s on the deluge of praise, which is more a result of the railway through the old revolutionary base areas, old liberated the masses happy happy to see how the description of the train. Of course, Yangzhou is different from the old part of those economic difficulties, Yangzhou pass train, to its tourism and economic development in old revolutionary base areas have a more realistic than the more easily observable interests, but Yangzhou travel extensively, of course, already on the train is no longer stranger. This well-known tourist city, hoping the train times can promote the local economy take off again, and they hope, will not be a very distant dream bar. When there is no train, travelers like me will be here was removed, when the "point" of the train opened, Yangzhou further development seems to be imminent.
Yes, I travel long distances to Yangzhou, not so much is to look at scenery as it is their dreams to find that there is no wound in the heart seems grasp but always dream of lingering in their hearts, no the language can not accurately convey the appearance of this dream, but I am well aware, all this really have been hidden in my heart, could not find a suitable language tells only know that a true inner feelings so that I came here, Not only is the tour scenery, but also a habitat for the soul. Perhaps many are in Yangzhou, a friend can not understand how they feel, commercial breath although it is pervasive, but there is always things that will remain in our hearts, and will not fade with the changes in the outside world, my feelings Yangzhou That's right.
Accommodation wen he chose the North and the four Wangting Yiyuan Road Interchange, not only because there were affordable, but also because the traffic convenience. Yangzhou City is wen he road axis, and Wenchang Road, 4 Wangting and roads are intertwined, wen he roads are divided into South and North Road, the road side of the motor vehicle and non-motor vehicles Road between Road is a Garden style gallery, every night, always to be seen, where women with children walking or playing, quite a kind of feel comfortable feeling. So I'm interested in, as well as the crossroads of Yangzhou police. Breakfast, lunch and evening peak traffic period, almost every intersection has 34 police officers on duty, each police a whistle dangling from his mouth is, they direct traffic tool is that the whistle, so you can hear the whistle one after another in the sounded the various junctions of the city to prohibit the whistle of the city is still a sense of deafening, especially when you cross the road at the junction when the. According to my observation, pedestrians and bicycles is not how to buy the accounts of those the police and the whistle, so the traffic becomes some confusion, the police busy round and round, pedestrians have more in me, "OK," I Su. To stay two days in Yangzhou, I have several times through the intersection, police, whistle and pedestrian noise phenomenon which looks very interesting.
Mentioned Yangzhou, without mentioning the Slender West Lake. From Grace to the Slender West Lake is not far, I have time for 7 o'clock in the morning to proceed to walk to nothing but 20 minutes away. The reason to go ahead, one said to listen to Ctrip's friends on the morning tickets go to there is no need (and subsequently proved otherwise, according to 50 yuan ticket revenue is not mistaken), the second is to listen to, they say, the best scenery of the Slender West Lake is a morning or evening watch. Before each trip must go to online search netizens exchange of experiences, including accommodation, attractions and so on the road design. West Lake from the south gate into the thin, perhaps as early as the reason because of the time bar, few tourists, but many students of painting, there is the practice of the elderly, I am carrying a backpack, walked involuntarily puts " Fireworks in March, "can say that this song has been running through my Yangzhou has always been, but has not my beautiful song can be described here, or copy down the lyrics should first Liugejinian Bar --
Qian Zhu your hand / Do not relative to the Yellow Crane Tower / waves Yangtze water / send your next Yangzhou / true feelings with you go, I ask for you to stay / 24 Bridge moon night / cared about in Yangzhou / Yangzhou City, there I am friends / Yangzhou City, there is no one points you worry and worry / Yangzhou City, there like me Zhixin Ren / Yangzhou City, and you are there through thick and thin / fireworks off in March is a constant Liu / dream is to drink endless south wine / so go there Gufanyuanying blue sky to do / know better than miss that thin ...... West Lake
Beautiful melody that attracted me to Yangzhou, and Yangzhou to, but also can be heard everywhere in this song, so I often have a living in the year in Yangzhou Jin Xi feeling. I was in Times Square (the name or the era known as shopping malls) in front of that line of home appliances next to linger, to listen to them is there where the repeated playing of "fireworks in March," one in four road Wangting video stores, I am flush mood to go to find and buy Wu Diqing of this album, at this moment writing this text, when the ears reverberating, that is, the familiar music.
Into the Slender West Lake Park, not far from a group of women dressed in a blue boat bright-colored clothes are lined up to boost business. The Slender West Lake since the Tour had heard that the best way is by boat, so although the cost of 80 yuan, or harsh choice, I come on board. Shore three steps a peach, Wubu Yi Liu, and some have been in full bloom, some are budding, the distance is the Diaoyutai, 5 Pavilion Bridge, a small Jinshan, Baita Luk Lau red flowers in between the other set off in the distance is the Kam True Memorial Daming Temple. I take the wear is on the 26th, rowing women's home in Xinghua, had just sat down on board, she speaks tirelessly on the story of the Slender West Lake, south, under Emperor Qianlong, the local wealthy salt merchants to curry favor with the emperor built the night with the salt Beijing Baita similar to the North Sea, as well as the local fishing Qianlong salt merchants who send people to sneak into the underwater hanging hook to the goldfish, and so the emperor's story, I also know that the fireworks in March inside the "fireworks" but in fact refers to is a catkin, while the Qionghua is the city flower of Yangzhou, Yangzhou city willow tree is a tree, every spring, it is catkin Piaofei season. We paddled boats to 24 bridge, it was only built a bridge in order to travel long 24 meters wide and 2.4 m, up and down each side of the 24 steps, not be as ambitious I had imagined. To listen to women's introduction, many explanations on the 24 bridge, the Tang dynasty that the multi-bridge over the water in Yangzhou, "24 Bridge" generally refers to the concept, the Song Dynasty, when Shen Kuo has been confirmed in the "Meng Xi Bi Tan," where there are records 24 bridge, and a breakdown of the bridge's name. Which one is true may no longer important, yes, "24 Bridge moon night, where they called Chui Xiao Yu Ren," "the world is three clear moonlit night, two sub rogue Yangzhou" and other poems has given us infinitely fascinating .
On board, I Yaochuan woman spoke of "fireworks in March," she volunteered to sing a song for me, so, in the Slender West Lake in the rafting forward, touching the "fireworks in March," so once again sounded, and later I am also singing along together, and that feeling can not explain in words only realize. I already know that these online learning Yaochuan woman called "Chuanniang," but still asked the girl: "Your name should be the role of what?" Some women shy smile, "we ah, they all call our ships your mother. " To see me laughing, and she went on to explain: "Do not laugh, is not that 'mother', is 'Yaochuan girl' means." 26 Chuanniang from Xinghua, I have heard of that place, but she introduced me to the phrase take the initiative to folk slang: to the heart Xinghua spent, to the Yancheng do not want to home. Intention is "to the heart of the Xinghua on panic," because Xinghua are rivers and lakes, water and more foreign guests easily flustered and later evolved into "heart flower"; the other one turned out "to the Yancheng like home", because in the past Yancheng poverty , not like a home, was later changed to "did not want to home." Chuanniang knowledge seems vast enough, but when I asked the other direction Yangzhou, she then did not know, because they rarely play out, more of the time loitering in the Slender West Lake Village, while the Slender West Lake boat mother mostly from Xinghua, not because of beautiful, but also because the girl's water Xinghua are very good. Then I found the map, Xinghua, which is located in Yancheng Gaoyou and the Soviet Union and between the town of Taizhou, the word on the map, and like much, but what should be there, what kind of rivers and lakes scenery it?
Write here, I suddenly found that the number actually Chuanniang where the cruise ships and I often went to bath in Changchun, a number the same as the master of Yangzhou pedicure. Said to be master, in fact, is only two-year-old boy, home in Jiangdu, it is away from the vicinity of the city of Yangzhou, from the Slender West Lake by four cars on the road can go. Junior came to Changchun, more than a year previously a bath center in Shanghai, where he was and I talk in Yangzhou rape, told me that if wearing yellow clothes to hide inside, on the outside what can not be found, because they "have tried." Then, just a few days ago, he left Changchun, his father contracted in Beijing, a bath to help him in the past. The Yangzhou friend, from a young age when he started to cosmopolitan, relying on skill career in the world, their future would happen then, is as forty to fifty-year-old Cuozao pedicure like to continue to drift outside, or as I have in Mianyang to see the same young people who intend to do by foot a few years back to his home diverted? In Yangzhou city, I heard that very few people are willing to work in the bath, and do this trip, mostly from Yangzhou periphery, such as Jiangdu, Guazhou, Hanjiang and so on.
Yangzhou has Minyan: "In the morning bag of water, at night the water foreskin." The former say is to eat morning tea, the latter said, is a bath, while bathing in the end how the culture developed, is what I would like to see what the. Grace lived in the road next to the four Wangting, there are several bath center, two days time, walked into the three bath center, one of which is located on the fifth floor of the royal era of shopping malls bath center (the name seems so), the overall does not feel as thought is so good, and no Changchun, northern China, especially the bath feel comfortable. 20 yuan less than the bath, bathing the environment is not what the lobby is chaotic enough to be, and that family is said to be relatively good in Yangzhou royal it, the hall will simply not seen such a partition and baffle Changchun, a number of woman inside the shuttle, feeling like a cart into the past, shops, rest is not to mention the the. Service personnel more than in the North End of a bath for guests Cabei to wipe your feet for slippers, but the whole attitude and enthusiasm is significantly better than the North specification, so I do not know is that commended them for their service, or complain about the attitude of many poor, and short , if you want to feel the bathing culture, it was suggested to north-east to Changchun feeling much better, there are also masters of Yangzhou can be seen everywhere.
By Yangzhou, I still wish is to see the Grand Canal, while to Yangzhou, I do not distinguish between the ancient Grand Canal and the Grand Canal concept. Take No. 19 bus to the Qiaodong, where the ancient Grand Canal bridge, I walked in the above to see the canal landscape, apart from a few very old boat, and there is not much feeling. Maybe I wrong path, perhaps on the canal in this case. I do not see online Xinhua News Agency reporters Pai She and De Yunhe sides golden rape, wanted to go since Jiangdu around in circles, but due to time reasons canceled plans.
Came out from the Slender West Lake, sitting manpower tricycles to a park, said there are four names National Park (the other three is where I do not know). A park, the park's name comes from the bamboo, Qing Yuan Mei a poem "Moon Ying Zhu thousands of words." A park is a Qing Dynasty Jiaqing years Lianghuai salt to Kwan Yu Hwang, Ming-shou zhi Park site on the reconstruction, which are everywhere bamboo and bamboo for me, did not have much appeal. A year ago in May, I and my colleagues drove to Yibin in southern Sichuan Bamboo Sea, where the bamboo variety of hill and dale, it took them 30 yuan tickets that have worth, although there is a Four Seasons Garden rockery is said, what Spring Hill shoots stone mixed summer stone Hollow Lake Extraordinary, Akiyama Huang Dandan Feng, Xuan Shi Dongshan disappeared like snow. I carefully read the winter scenery, a group of tourists on the inside, through the guide explained, it is to imagine the masters of the winter frozen huddle around the fire roasting quilts in the house watching the snow outside. There everybody park experience, I lost to another interest in Ho Park, although heard that there is different from a garden with rockery Range Rover.
In a park entrance and saw a train pass mark Yangzhou Paper-cut promotional banners, so I want to find paper-cut anywhere to be found to purchase as souvenirs, but eventually unsuccessful.
Yangzhou cuisine, Fuchun morning and Fuman Lou should be the most bar-head meatballs, and others in respect of the Yangzhou fried rice. Fuchun morning tea due to very far from the residence, it did not go to taste, and Fu Manlou Yiyuan hotel while on the opposite, but few people eat I think there should be no meaning, therefore, only go to a nearby Yangzhou fried rice shops, be passed a Yangzhou cuisine addiction? Seems not say, where the fried rice and we eat the flavor throughout the country, and nothing special. I eat up, or when you first eat duck blood to Nanjing and Yangzhou steamed dumpling soup fans. In Yangzhou time, happened to see the local newspaper ready to preach the practice of Yangzhou soup packets to develop detailed criteria, with a view to establish the brand. Indeed, very fragrant steamed buns, only eaten four Maoyou, it seems a bit wasted:).
A short span of two days, I have been unable to enter the depths of the old Yangzhou, failed to find the old flavor of Yangzhou, and Yangzhou, the new era, everywhere is the modern atmosphere, except for the quiet scenic area outside of this Cities, like other ancient traces of the old cities, gradually disappear. Read the local newspapers, one is said to be one of the full moon bridge 24 bridges have been completely collapsed, the media and the public were asked who should be responsible for the collapse of the bridge Mochizuki, why not get a good repair. Almost like me in the history of my place of living of people, in particular, is deeply envious of those who garden or gray tiles and ancient trees or brick buildings, but has a history of where they are not cherish this history, and in addition may be as a tourist resources, rapid development of means of making money when there will be a little concern, who is the sorrow of what should do? Phoenix Weekly that day to see an article, referring to Liang in the U.S. bombing of Japan to the United States into a statement for the protection of the ancient capital of Nara, Japan, the last U.S. military did not bomb Nara, so only the ancient Nara today and modesty; while also Liang , suggested that Beijing after the founding of the protection of ancient buildings, but failed to organize the old Beijing city gates contiguous walls were removed, today's Beijing, an ancient capital perhaps only occasionally in an increasingly scarce and the Forbidden City in the alley to find a bar. I hope to travel Prospering City of Yangzhou, the road will not continue to go this way, though perhaps it has almost been destroyed too.
"Yangzhou City, there I am a good friend, Yangzhou City, and you are there through thick and thin." I have no enemy in Yangzhou, so I was just a passing, but I am close to Yangzhou, Yangzhou stroke, though cursory, but still have a touch of pleasant and satisfying.
April 18, 2004, Nanjing-Qidong railway will officially open to traffic, and Yangzhou, will usher in the era of the train have a happy life, Runyang also soon opened it, and she had been rich in Mianyang, Leshan Grand Hotel fellow Zhao work Jun whether he was accompanied by his wife and children to find Leshan back guazhou it? His wish is granted a taxi driver, it? Worked in Changchun Jiangdu juvenile Xiaoliang it, and his father go to Beijing, he will live permanently in Beijing, or will return home to the embrace of Guo and his hometown of human-like life? There are boating on the Slender West Lake of the Xinghua Chuanniang, they will draw to a life boat Yangzhou, they will draw their own future to where? Changes in the years, we will be getting older, but everyone according to their own direction depicts the different trajectories of their own. So, when an end to this series of sketches, I wish everyone, blessings in this vast sea of the world, in my life journey in contact with every friend, purpose of travel is always look at the scenery assistance, touched our hearts and minds, as well as those living in the road to get to know a friend, but we are lucky enough to talk, this is the life of the fortunate. Likewise, I would like to give blessings of Yangzhou, perhaps, I will there again, in a particular year the real fireworks season in March, in my eternal soul.
(Zodiac 2004.4.5 3:30 in Changchun http://xiaode.vip.sina.com)
Author: XIAODE
