One of Jiangnan sidelight: the ancient capital of Nanjing
Hometown in the north, I was longing for southern independence.
This is a year ago in a post in the written text, a year later, when the 1346 Train my platform from the Changchun Railway Station, unloaded the north face spring turns warm again hit unique , I know, and they have become the heart of southern section of memory.
Where is South? Many people are doing for granted from the literal interpretation, it seems that only those small bridges is the real south. But for me, that beautiful both sides of the Yangtze River has become the dream of Jiangnan. In fact, maybe everyone has their own ideas, and the Yangtze River, exists only in the hearts of our different bar.
Previously, I had had three opportunities to southern exposure, one five years ago, the season that rain started falling the first time I came to Beijing to the south of the Yangtze River Bridge, the first time I saw, tall, imposing Metasequoia and plane trees, is also the first time in the train speeding along the Yangtze River on the southern minor, and enjoyed listening to the different Murano scenery outside the window. At that time, pockets empty, sitting alone in a long hard seat went to the south, Zhenjiang, Changzhou and Shanghai. All in all, I have always remembered those days of no money, remember that time, squeeze hard seat car seat did not even travel, because of the time, like cars, always have many opportunities to contact with a lot of people, particularly those like me who are No nothing, or at least only enough food and clothing of the people, their simplicity and kindness, often so that every time I visit, there must be a windfall - for example, to get to know a friend, or listen to a story, or feel a different section of life . The poor are always true, there is no mask few precautions, so have the harmony between people and harmony, but such an opportunity, it seems that fewer and fewer.
The second time was three years ago, winter, in November, has just returned from Tibet, Chengdu, I hurried to a meeting to Wuxi. That was my first visit to Wuxi, see the Taihu Lake, the Three Kingdoms City, Water Margin City, Lingshan Buddha, I have feet of the Buddha Buddha holding the camera in the rain and fog, also in the Pan Jinlian's bedroom peep out, and, like other visitors, but, because it is the work of a business trip, so not too many feelings, not to mention, along with play are all units of the people in the past, also a lot less interesting and chewing of mind.
The third trip to the Yangtze River, is the fall of last year's bar, drowsily as the National Day Golden Week those who shed the south, first in Beijing, then Hangzhou West Lake side did not stay too much, but passing a walk, and everywhere yes, I and several friends arrived by car together with the other side of West Lake, quiet Meijiawu - where sweet-scented osmanthus fragrance, with hill and dale in the growth of Longjing tea, we drink tea and sweet-scented osmanthus trees, talking about world affairs, strange variety, the kind of mood my colleagues can not understand business climate. Sometimes I think, to a place where natural scenery of course, may be a fascinated, but they often remain in the memory of the depths, or that people who have had contact with the crowd, it is the most people to linger, and memorable. As if I always take great pains to remind himself that he travels a few fragments scenario: Brahmaputra River rushing along with his father that the child sheep at dusk in the back of the northern Gulf Weizhou that beautiful woman on the tour guide answered, "Why do not leave islands "the calm of the helpless, Sichuan Hanyuan night and we reverse and winding Road trip to Yunnan, Shaanxi farmers received the open wheat harvesters, there is no water, when the Three Gorges Little Three Gorges Little Three Gorges Project is also the starting point at the end of those who do the barbecue business, farmers ...... because someone in the meantime, the most beautiful pieces that constitute a living picture, but as I have - more often in people who look a little harder - those full of life The true flavor of the picture will always linger in the mind a long time unforgettable.
So, when this spring, I went to the hearts of the Fourth South, the hearts are calm although there is inevitably a lot of reverie. In the north, seems quite a luxury tourist activities, it is often the first question to ask is "can do for reimbursement," If the answer is no, will be full of weird and understand - This is really a strange phenomenon, more the northeast, is to live like this in their own world, and was willing to own understanding of all that would be incompatible with "normal" move into the alternative. Maybe from the other side, conservative ideas has led to economic stagnation and backward so, but travel, it may be Qinjianchijia it, I do not know, but I seem to never thrifty, even though I came from The most typical diligence house.
I did not expect that this time travel, almost all spent in the song, this song, and some from the outside world, and some, they come from in their own hearts and minds.
While Nanjing's friends several times told me not to go to those two spots, but I was with a kind of pilgrimage or a search for a childhood state of mind to visit, one of which is Mochou Lake. "Mochou Lake side walk, the foliage on the lead, flowers, faces the prospect laugh, clean water is also gentle, Mo woman to leave before the shadow, beautiful people Jiangshan Merry ......", this song has been floating around in my childhood years, then, although the song did not feel too much, but long my sister and her four partners in the same age also has its own white-bound songbook with the above packed in a lot of lyrics Chao Zhao, of which there is the song "Mo-Mo-ah." With the current music trends to measure, perhaps today's younger generation will never be able to understand such a simple music actually would we have such a profound influence on people always say, "Cantabile years,岁月如歌," for me , or for our group of people, such as "Mo-Mo-ah," "buys them on intuition" and so is our growth in the years ah. As for the friend believes that there no spectacle, mostly because no scenery near it, as if living for nearly three decades in the Jilin, I actually have not seen the same in Changbai Mountains, and even there was little impulse to visit me for a moment.
Therefore, in Nanjing, my first one chosen to go Mochou Lake Park, the park is not, there are about two-thirds of Changchun area of South Lake Park bar. Come antique gate, one is not facing a wide water flow, pond fountains there will still be man-made device - it will not is the Mochou Lake, right? My heart slightly Deng a moment and continue to move forward, the crowd came early morning exercise, eyes suddenly see the light, a quiet lake appears in the vision of, though did not see the text introduction, there is no doubt that this is the Mochou Lake . A walk along the lake, to find an empty stone bench to sit down, we knew it, think of the "Mo-Mo-ah," the melody - as if graduating that year in February, I and my brother, Tong Qin Five strolling the campus of Beijing University, we came to the Weiming Lake, Five told me that he thought the "Muslim's funeral" in Chu Yan Crescent North Korea and South Korea met here once, but also think of those who live and study at Peking University scholars and everyone who ever. In fact, Mochou Lake Lake area is not large, park opposite the Lake have been developed into residential quarters, I think should also be high-end residential prices do not Fiji bar. The other side of the park is the pavilions, I have not approached there, but allowed to gaze longingly hoping for a group of older people and sing, they sing is "we walk in the road," while the near side, it is one engraved with "nation-building pay the price" of the stone, a letter to the time "It was the first year in March," inscribed in the "Provisional President of the Dr. Sun Yat-title", next to the inscription on the statement that there is "Yuejun martyr graves of martyrs," I used the camera captured of the monuments and inscriptions, today's all there in the past to pay the blood of the martyrs, as our people today, you should not forget the past. Because a long history of Nanjing and Jiangsu Province, so the next tour, I had many times there have been such a feeling.
Mo woman surrounded by ancient buildings enclosed within the central lake, the lake is not very clear, but Mo is still white woman statue, she stood a pile of thin stone dignified form. Mo woman on the story, I know little about, because it did not ask tour guides, attractions and no pre-written to say that I have no knowledge of history the number of self-improvement. However, their childhood do not also own history, so I Mochou Lake side, recalling his own history of more than 20 years ago, but then, how I think today, he could have the opportunity to really come to Mo - Lake then? The impermanence of things, it is so let everything become possible.
Mochou Lake Park, outside, there is one called "Patio Spring Snow" tea restaurant, I can not help but marvel at the human associations, and the song "Patio Spring Snow" for a split method, it becomes a unique restaurant name, "human loss of Lenovo, the world would be how to" do? :) "Patio Spring Snow" tea restaurant next to a small square, named "Peace Square." Peace, the city of Nanjing for how much weight to the ah. I remember one year the "New Weekly" part of the big cities to a national position, Nanjing has been classified as "the saddest city." Everyone knows that Nanjing's "sad" come from, who do not know the bitter experience of that year, gave generations of Nanjing and the Chinese have left deep scars how.
Mochou Lake Park before the ride from 7 road car, went to the "Japanese invaders in Nanjing Massacre Memorial Hall." In Nanjing, the media, anyone who's name appears in the title, the title used is "Jiangdong Gate Memorial," I do not know is sad that in order to deliberately avoid the name, or other reasons, I for one prefer to be construed as The former - although this may just be me for granted. Memorial Hall from March 1 onwards, free of charge the quality of the visitors to explore the controversy was in full swing around, I went to the time because it was Sunday, so there are still many, many people surging at the door, the Museum has adopted a compartment 15 minutes to put a group of people into the garden in a way. Deterred from in front of a long time, I have not walked into the memorial, but rather holding a camera will Nazuo engraved with "1937.12.13 - 1938.1," the cross and alarm a flock of pigeons on the columns above the income of the lens, through another side of the door, "Prayer for Peace" dignified and vicissitudes of life to the words printed on the wall.
This is a country with a long history of the city, from city streets and building names, we can see that the ancient and once had the brilliant: Confucius Temple, the Chinese gate, Xuanwumen, Drum Tower, jimingsi, Xu House Lane ...... When I walk in the middle of these buildings, a touching sense of history can not help but remember with affection Thinking back. Although today's Confucius Temple four weeks have been busy commercial pedestrian street is covered, but that brick gray tiles of the Imperial House is still able to find here ancient solemn people, those who then test the student again in the future here with how a kinds of vision for it? In front of Xuanwumen Xuanwu Lake, the "fry to celebrate the country's largest tea ring the grand opening event," hoisted the banner above the gate, the bottom is hanging from the four promotional couplet into openings on the "Xuanwumen" words " appear abnormal embarrassed. Presidential Palace towering gate, we walk in the days of high-brow types Republican government offices and rest areas, and looking at a month Stuart received a conference room and other foreign diplomats, as well as hanging on the wall portrait of Sun Yat-sen, and Green - Day - White - Day - flag, as well as office building behind the air-raid shelter that deep, everything has been over the past Gone with the wind today, has been gradually surrounded the presidential palace surrounded by all kinds of buildings, from the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom of Hong Xiuquan, to the Sun Yat-sen established the Republic of China, everything the rest of the memory.
In the Presidential Palace of the room, I found a marked "the national government ordered the confiscation of a total of - middle - the party's leadership 'Chinese Left-Wing Writers League of' publication" Bei Dou "" and the "national government ordered the suppression of the CPC Central Committee publication" Red Flag "To the Executive Yuan's correspondence, "the exhibits, including" Bei Dou "and" Red Flag "cover is also placed there. See, there is a feeling in their hearts Fanyong difficult to explain. The National Government during the banned left-wing publications, a clear departure from the development of the times, but today it? When a further document on the unnatural death of newspapers and magazines, we really do not know what to say, how to evaluate the past.
Speaking of publications, had heard that Nanjing is the media smoky battlefield, to find this really the case here. Here's a newspaper, seen on news-stands alone, "Modern Express," "Jinling Evening News", "Yangzi Evening News," "Jiangnanshibao", "Nanjing Morning Post", "Service Herald," "Weekend," " Nanjing Daily "and other no less than 10 copies of it, but most of these names are listed in the main categories of urban life, newspaper prices are shockingly low 96 Friday published a version of" Jinling Evening News "But four cents, while the three 30 has just revised the "Nanjing Daily," This an urban class emerged as a newspaper, 40 open edition actually only sell 2 cents. Newspaper Bosha, perhaps from the commercial prosperity, a flood of ads in newspapers and frequent, and though many newspapers, but the addition to the "Service Herald" and "weekend", the other newspapers are very much advertising space, advertising category and layout design are also varied. Level of development of the newspaper, from one aspect that has also proven commercial levels of prosperity, the two rely on each other and common prosperity. In this sense, the newspaper where I Changchun apparently still immature state, regardless of who is to seize more market, at best, only doing small business because the market is too small plates, from now that other Advertising can be seen on the layout. Has a history of a city, must be a city full of culture and scholarly, Nanjing and so, so Beijing, Chengdu, also do so.
Nanjing, well-developed bus routes, bus almost every corner of radiation to the city and tourist attractions, and the car radio specification; whether it is a small restaurant or on the road, one can hear Mandarin, rather than Shanghai, as everywhere is a bad Allah dialect; main street intersections, we can see the purple antique wood the way, is very clear and beautiful; green is good, tall, imposing a number of old trees; commercial development of Xinjiekou known as the "First Circle "...... There is also a name so I'm impressed, that is, Nanjing, Jiangsu Province as well as can be seen everywhere "Su fruit supermarket," we heard, "Su Ning," along with this and the National US-opened stores around the country confront the appliance sales business, in Nanjing Street the surface, but there is no "Suguo Supermarket" is more common (of course, the two operations are different in nature), one felt that this name is wonderful, "Su fruit," reveals a southern person's small and intelligent, but everywhere is different from the Changchun visible "Heng Ke Long", "Guang Ke Long," where the name is rugged, multi-chain supermarket in Chengdu of "reciprocity supermarket", straightforward and direct. "Su fruit" of the origin I do not know, but the name has certainly never forget it, and very easy to love is full of feeling.
When asked about the hotel aunt what are the characteristics of Nanjing has a snack, the aunt shook his head, Nanjing specialties are nothing, and now opened most of all outsiders, as early as did the old flavor of Nanjing. However, I think, after all, a palate, so seeing is filled with the "fans duck blood soup" signs, presumably must be special features. So to Nanjing's first meal on the choice of a roadside "Qinhuai snack" shop, to a bowl of duck blood soup fans, again a drawer soup packets, indeed bites, the former is by the fans, duck blood, coriander, chicken livers, a certain animal (do not know what) offal composition, the latter is biting a mouthful of oil, very delicious, the next few days, I ate several of this "diet with", but simply, in the Jiangsu, they seem do not like soy sauce, table only vinegar, eat vinegar:).
Two days in Nanjing, where are being held "in 2004 Nanjing, China, the world's Historical and Cultural Cities Expo" in the high-profile publicity carried out at the same time, is the city's "Create a National Civilized City" were mobilized to strive for allegedly entering the country in the first approved the ranks of the national civilized city, all kinds of "signature", "forum" plethora, of which a report of an expert, then I was impressed, he said that low visibility abroad in Nanjing, when introduced to foreigners, "from the Nanjing to "when the people is always a look of confusion, no alternative but to add that" in the west of Shanghai, "After reading I simmer with laughter. I thought of my own past, out of tourist stay in the guesthouse registration attendants see the "Changchun" understand the where, when, so I shall do "weather education", CCTV weather the first one in Beijing, the second is in Harbin, the third is the "Changchun." The expert concluded that Nanjing is to Nanjing, can not always live in the shadow of Shanghai, there is no need to pull together and Beijing.
Only, Nanjing, how external emphasize their style?
Of Nanjing, I would just be a passer-by, touched on the walk, but still the city has a very good impression. Although my first and last to leave a settled place of Nanjing Railway Station is being built to cover up the possibility that some of the better of this "first impression", but I think, perhaps, again, when, Nanjing will show a more refreshing look ahead bar.
(Zodiac 2004.4.4 0:09 pm at the Changchun http://xiaode.vip.sina.com)
Author: XIAODE
