2 Women's mountebank of the chapter Daocheng
--- Kangding, Inagi, Aden, Meili Snow Mountain, Lijiang self-help 10-day trip
The long holidays each year are to play when I go wild, the 2003 SARS 11 was the first after a long holiday, already get antsy, and and faithful playmate Anna opened a meeting to, decided to go to Aden.
Gongyushanjishi, must first sharpen his tools. 10 days before the trip, I searched for a number of travel sites and books, check a lot of travel information, once a day update schedule to ensure that the most important day, three things - food, housing, transportation; Anna set out the trip essential items, also went to Beijing the famous "three-fu outdoor" Qi concern and preparation of the utensils used for camping. Everything was ready, on the other holidays.
Statistics show that Aden is one of the most beautiful Shangri-la, but the journey will be very hard.
September 26, 2003 Beijing - Chengdu - Ya - Kangding
364 kilometers, the driver crazy
Out from Chengdu Shuangliu Airport, take a taxi to the new South Gate passenger station to buy long-distance from Chengdu to Ya'an ticket. I do not know me and Anna too much like the wealthy, or to see if we carry like a backpack of 60 liters of migrant workers rush home, taxi drivers, and we even opening 80 on the money, not give up fighting a sheet! This, however hit on the muzzle, and we have not seen two Lao Jianghu any battle, even knocked on our bamboo bar! "@&^%# ... ... ... ", A few words on the Ye De taxi drivers would not speak. Arrived at destination, the meter display is 38 yuan, 10 yuan plus tolls, a total of 48 money, giving him 50, he did not give change.
The new order in South Gate passenger station lobby is very chaotic, people crowded in the ticket window, the computer ticketing system downtime, and sweat! Hands Jinjinzuanzhao tickets Rendui fall in. out from the surprise, took nearly an hour's time.
13:30 start, and now more than 12 points. Outside the ticket hall, not far from there, "UCC COFFEE" sign, and this is a good place for a hearty meal battle. Approached found that this hateful even on the second floor of the restaurant! Why is he evil? Do you think upstairs is easy ah? Behind each of us carrying a 60-liter backpack, chest shoulders hung a bulging backpack, upstairs is called the one tired! (To tell you, before and after the backpack's advantage is fairly balanced center of gravity will not suddenly Yang turned to the ground, just wanted to squat.) With great difficulty moved upstairs, unloading a backpack on the Liangzi --- easy! Rice will certainly want to eat eat well, according to many online Mix that you want to leave Chengdu after eating a meal will be very difficult to talk about the dream of luxury, we have fulfilled the dream of this cuisine.
From Chengdu to Ya'an a lot of car trips every 35 minutes trip; road is good, Youcheng elegant highway; Driving Status both mean Hangzhou Yaxing the bus. 1:30 start, 2 hours to Ya. According to my plan, we should be doing today in Yaan Zha, in Yaan a look around tomorrow, starting to Kangding. But in the ticket window, the conductor tells me to have acquired tickets to Kangding. To the road before they know that Erlang is a single, the "double day into a single sunrise." But this time discovered, I worked backward. Immediately decided to go to Kangding, the same day, not Ya'an stay. But today there is no long-distance car to Kangding, only chartered the. Out of the passenger terminal, the gate waiting for a taxi there. I quick search with your eyes a moment to see a 40-year-old fairly look familiar to the driver sitting in a quite new Xiali car (three boxes), and asked him not to Kangding, he agreed, after bargaining the price of is 550 yuan. He said that from Yaan to Kangding takes about 4-5 hours drive, but if not it say the Erlang traffic jams (the fact that the driver greatly underestimated the hard way).
In order to travel long distances to prepare for the driver to the car to fill with oil, but also to the canteen and bought some pastries as Erlang traffic jam when the dry food. I called the hotel canceled in Yaan, confirming that night accommodation in Kangding, we hit the road.
Ya is called "Rain City" is absolutely true, humidity enormously thin mist floating in the air, the skin make up the moisture, like a cosmetics ad in the speech, said: "The water of the skin, and Nen Nen's ... ... "(forgive me for the old radish brush masking, Hehe). The driver was a talkative person, been in to talk with us and tell us when the Erlang traffic jams corn (maize) to buy a 30 money; Kangding Paoma Shan on the United Kingdom last year, there have been two female tourists have been robbed and later killed the locals a; two women to the Gulf of Aden is not safe, it should be together with others and peers and so on.
Yaan out from the road conditions were good two hours, drivers and we are laughing. He's talkative lasted two and a half hours, 18:30 to arrive Erlang traffic jams at the tunnel, he then began to decrease. The notorious traffic jams I had been heard of Erlang Mountain, and many have suffered Mix, and even some people have had overnight Erlang experience. With sufficient mental preparation, a 40-minute traffic jams Daorang we feel "so so". Later we found that for our eager to hurry speaking, traffic jams are not the biggest enemy to draw the line road is bumpy bad source of evil. We took the leased vehicle, the chassis is too low, one must face the rugged road deceleration, they might have to backing to. The driver can only be a long time hung a file to a speed of 5-10 km.
Less than 7:00 on the days completely dark. If the driver less and less, for a long time without uttering a word, and occasionally to squeeze several more ambiguous from the teeth of the curse. I do not know when, Erlang traffic jam in a long time to keep company with our team already missing disappeared (those vehicles are trucks, jeeps... In short all these can take a mountain of cars, all of them more than us), we The Xiali lights illuminate the road far ahead, there is no moon, surrounded by the dark one. Anna was asleep, I can not sleep, and my heart tension, rack their brains Meihuazhaohua and chatting with the driver, and strive to create some noise to embolden himself (and we often chartered out to play, but this time I was extremely nervous, deep forests too quiet Shen a bit much and feel uncomfortable). Finally saw some lights in front, is on road workers, drivers inquiries to the bad news, indicating the day Erlang Mountain road closure days, only to be released until 18 o'clock, which means that he can not return to the day tomorrow, Ya. The driver would like to back down, and let us get off at Luding, said he would return to Ya'an overnight, or tomorrow, would delay the day's business. How this can do it! We are determined not to allow this, and convincing people with reason and move them with affection, returned the money that he has 50 as his compensation for tomorrow's knock off, he was reluctantly agreed to pull us to continue to Kangding. Luding is the arrival time of 20:00 minutes, in order to save time, we do not stop, continued on our way. Within a short while, the lights on Luding submerged in the night of the.
At this time the driver was rotten like a dry road toss firecrackers whenever they shouted abuse, he was crazy! (I sum up a bit, 4 hours inside, the driver from a good talker to the quiet, whispered curses, to the last wild roar. In a related analysis of the training of character has been mentioned, in a state of compression will be personality change This driver is a vivid example). I endured it, or suffer from a strong storm intended to comfort him: "Do not worry, it is coming on pretty soon..." When the lights again see the little bit of time already 11 o'clock at night, and Kangding has finally arrived, Anna and I escaped out of the car. In the long-distance station a question tomorrow, the car did not go to Inagi, only acquired the votes, a long hiss of breath, tomorrow a day of rest in Kangding. May be in the car had never make a move, metabolism also slows down to a minimum (we in the car more than seven hours food and water, did not go to the toilet), plus from Chengdu to Kangding increased by nearly 2 km above sea level ( Sorry, I do not know the exact elevation of Chengdu, it should be around 1,000 m bar, Kangding nearly 3,000 meters), the car, some people are not suited to, and like two dull the stupid geese, obviously insufficient blood supply to the brain.
We are staying in a hotel in Kangding the best --- Gesar hotel lobby bright lights, front and room number of the Tibetan PLMM white sheets so that our sense organs began to slowly wake up from the chaos. Stomach woke up later, I feel hungry to eat a cow, Anna should be able to eat a large grass (she was vegetarian). Then flew out the hotel to look for food, there is a small restaurant across the road is still operating, looking fairly clean. Tibetan Dolma enthusiasm to our tea, the meal at 0:00 before finally fill the stomach, physical values also began to gradually restored.
Mama Zui meal and went straight back to the hotel, a harsh wash of a hot bath, put his tired body threw in a soft bed. Beijing feels far, far away ah, not distance, but the psychological distance, as if it is another world out there ... ...
Travel Tips
1,7:45 am-11: 00am Beijing - Chengdu, means of transport: Aircraft.
1:30 pm-3: 30pm Chengdu - Yaan, 147 km, Transportation: Hangzhou Yaxing long-distance truck
4:00 pm-11: 30pm Ya - Luding, 168 km; Luding - Kangding, 49 km. Transportation: 3 boxes Xiali.
2, by Erlang to calculate good time, "into a single two-day sunrise." Departure from Chengdu, it should double-date through the Erlang Shan, directly or Kangding, Luding arrival. If you stay in Luding, you can go to experience the "big iron chain Bridge head cold", to visit well-preserved Diaojiaolou Red Army memorial.
3, Ya'an is "Rain City", there are well-known panda breeding base (which is outside of the Wolong panda base in another panda reserve base) and "Mending tea."
Ya-state guesthouse 0835-2222029/2223031, Standard Room Price: 110 yuan, a 24-hour hot water.
4, Kangding Gesar hotel was opened in 2002, premiums 480 / S, the minimum can be said to 200 yuan / rooms, anyway I took a very big Jincaikandao 240 yuan, off-season prices should be better. Tel :0836-2825777, address Well, do not remember, and to the Kangding, everyone knows that this hotel is very well known. In good condition, breakfast can still, you can taste tea with milk.
5, in Kangding terminal bought the car should go Inagi tickets.
Fees (2)
Chengdu Shangdaokafei Lunch 32
Kangding Dinner 24
Kangding Gesar hotel room costs 240
Beijing - Chengdu tickets 2 2040
Beijing Airport Construction Fee 2 100
Chengdu Shuangliu Airport to the new South Gate Bus Station 2 50
Chengdu - Ya long-distance tickets 2 68
Ya - Kangding chartered 600
Kangding Bus Station to Hotel Taxi Fee 4 Gesar
Daocheng Kangding to long-distance tickets 2 250
The day of Total 3408
September 27, 2003 Kangding, "Mu Gecuo" Happy Yo-mountain
Last night, sleep well, am up and energetic. 9 o'clock, we have scheduled a taxi, such as about which to, but the driver is not the last night that Tibetan young man, John Ashcroft. Asked only know that the two drivers take turns driving a car, last night is the night we met the driver, and now posts the day shift drivers. Boy named "Gong Long" is the Han people, very warm.
In Kangding, all the taxis are Changan Auto. Most of these vehicles are bought by local government officials, on the taxi license later sub-leased to a taxi driver, an Alto car monthly rent is 6500 yuan!
Today, we schedule the morning to "Muge Cuo", the afternoon Paoma Shan.
"Mu Gecuo" is a Tibetan, that is, "Savage Sea" refers to the northwest Sichuan, one of the largest alpine lake, elevation 3,700 meters, said Savage had haunted (so-called Savage is a gimmick, that it should take most of the Tibetans orangutans because the elderly have not seen gorillas, thought the savages do. If the shelf now, at most, also called a "gorilla Valley" of the class name).
In the "Mu Gecuo" riding, there are a couple of choices options, the price from 30 yuan to 80 yuan range, we chose 60 yuan / person to the Red Sea steppe lines, and from two hours, saying that there is an open place able to snow-capped mountains overlooking Gonggar (Gongga snow-capped mountains is "the king of Shu", elevation 7556 meters). Horse walked slowly, we are staring carefully Guan Qiao, not talk orangutans, and even failed to see the squirrel. Surprised to see that the wolves attacked by a horse's body, feeling faint so a little "wild" (remember Banna, "Ye Xianggu," always want to be able to personally see the elephants, so as long as the elephants found droppings or be elephants trampled the branches will be very excited, I feel those huge animals from far away. In fact, during the day to see elephants are extremely rare, they only come out at night only event. "Mu Gecuo" too, in broad daylight so many people, animals have long been scared off, and where to find gorillas go!) Tibetan groom told us in April to Kangding, the mountainside was covered with azaleas; August come, you will drown in the colorful The Gesang Hua, the beautiful ... ... We can only Retention saliva, imagine that.
1 hour later, we came to the Red Sea steppe. Here is an open terrain, good weather today, distant snow-capped mountains of the Gonggar clearly see (but somehow does not seem like a very spectacular, even more than not in Lijiang Jade Dragon Snow Mountain).
A group of Tibetans holding horses in a circular motion around a White Tower, and her mouth was also remembered the Tibetan scriptures, we are puzzled, and groom open, and asked if we willing to ride around the Tibetan been around a tower that can be Chubing evil, Ping An auspicious, in short, lots of other good. We naturally agreed, but then added, groom, perimeter 10 of money. Goodfellas, that tower was 2 meters high and 1 meter in diameter also more perimeter is so expensive! Next to a female tourist, said she had just quite readily agreed to around the pagoda, but did not speak with the groom a good few laps around the results of this round ah groom, until she was around the dizzy, and then a count money, Oh! The heart ache! After bargaining, the two of us all around the two laps through the tower, complimentary Tibetan chanting, a total of 20 received money (do not laugh at us, you go to know, is not around No, ah, when the 20 money to buy a practical, Otherwise groom does not walk).
From Mu Gecuo back to Kangding is the noon meal is when the mouth Gonglong dine driver refused the invitation, saying that cars are bad, going to repair. We docked at a Gong driver that is a good restaurant, ate some delicacies from land (a large white mushrooms). After dinner went to buy some fruit and pear fruit, peaches market, added vitamin C (outside the play, rich in vitamins is necessary, although we have to carry vitamin tablets, but it requires some crude fiber, often out of the people must understand the reason.)
"Peach" is a kind of specialty fruits of Kangding, is the fruit of cactus. Kiwi similar size and appearance, skin green, Guanghua, cut with a knife, which a bit like a melon's flesh, sweet, juicy, multi-seed, listening to delicious, that is time-consuming, so old that spit seeds.
Kangding formerly known as "Tachienlu," Happy Valley is located in the foothills of the northern end of Chuanxigongga Hill, sandwiched between two mountains, is the capital of Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. A few years ago floods, Kangding city was flooded, and now is the government funding of Kangding built a new town. In Kangding, the proportion of Tibetans and Han Chinese is about 1:1, on the street there are many Tibetans dressed in colorful costumes and lamas (we got to see his hands and knees on the wooden planks tied the pilgrims). Tibetan women had previously been felt much longer look good, but in Kangding, but to see a lot of PLMM. Gong chat time and the driver talked about the matter, he was dismissive, saying: What kind? Danba not far from the Kangding, also known as "Beauty Valley", is the real place where beauty abounds! But now like to see the beautiful style is not easy, and many beautiful baby girl had gone to work out, pity pity.
Kangding is because a "Happy Yo-mountain" and famous, we have to Kangding, Qi can not go to bask in the romance of this prestigious venues? The song beautiful love song is the first Tibetan songs, Gong Long driver said two Tibetans sing River region is best to listen to, but we have not heard, presumably, and we hear it mildly, a Han Chinese singing different, will be more These natural wild.
Sitting on the ropeway Paoma Shan mountains Shashi deserted, bustling around the Sule Pagoda is the towering pine tree covered with a streamer with the sound of the wind flapping啦. Race is surrounded by bleachers, the scale is not large, then no one riding, only 32 Tibetans Aunt rental Tibetan clothing. Colorful robes hanging in the sun like a quilt on the shelf. Imagine the Tibetan New Year in April each year when the 10000 save moving the Jockey Club, "Happy Valley, the hills a Yo-Yo-Yo ... the clouds ..." Song from the Heart.
4:30 has just arrived at the hotel, played out on the next heavy rain. Plateau changeable weather, 5 minutes ago or a blue sky and white clouds, now they are lightning.
Evening rain stopped, we walked along the main roads in several cities back and forth, at the foot of the Dadu River Pentium consistently cities, some of Xu's coolness.
Travel Tips
1, "Muge Cuo" is located 30 kilometers northwest of the city of Kangding. Taxi drivers do not have to pack Mai Menpiao; if the package of other cars, you need to give the driver 35 yuan to buy a ticket. Taxi day packages cost about 160 yuan / day (low season).
2, if not the Jockey Club during the period, do not matter whether Paoma Shan.
3, we chose the fruit is apples and grapefruit. Apple is rich in vitamins, easy to store, necessary. Grapefruit can be consumed in the car, both to quench their thirst, not that bad water to drink too much too old for the driver to stop, but also to complement crude fiber, is the last choice. However, we must bring forward the grapefruit cut into small pieces wrapped with plastic wrap, so that can not avoid the dirty hands on grapefruit or package finished package can not wash their hands in embarrassment. Peach should taste; Tibet pear Quhuo, but the flavor of Suanse really do not taste good, pay any attention to you.
Fees (2)
Kangding Chinese food 35
Fruit 25.2
Kangding Gesar hotel room costs 240
Chartered 160
Wood lattice wrong Savage Sea Tickets 70
Wood lattice wrong Savage Sea horse 120
Paoma Shan Tram 60
Wood lattice wrong turn by the towers 20 Savage Sea
Day Total 730.2
Total cost of 4138.2
September 28, 2003 Kangding - Yajiang - Litang - Inagi
Morning and rushed to the long-distance railway station and found a lot of backpackers here have been waiting a. Are said to Kangding to Inagi there are many beautiful scenery along the way, we are ready, holding the camera, always ready to take pictures.
6 o'clock the start, still dark the days, days when the daybreak, passing the famous "Bonsai xinduqiao ten-mile" (To be honest, I really did not see it here, What are the benefits, so that has passed since I asked drivers know xinduqiao already passed), distant snow-capped mountains are unknown sunrise outlined a clear outline of the sun, I like the highland scenery.
10:30, to the Yajiang to where to eat lunch. Although at this time less than a meal time, but missed the Yajiang, Litang is necessary to reach the next 3-4 o'clock in the afternoon. Sitting on table, I and Anna remove sunglasses, hat, remove the backpack, "brush" from the backpack out of the two Zeng Ming Wa bright --- spoon. Self-eating guy, also grazed each bowl with disinfectant towels, eating when I feel comfortable when the (typical SARS sequelae). Indiscriminately eat anything, kettle filled with hot tea on the road. After folding mountainous (the name suggests, is a very tortuous mountain, elevation 4298 meters), Al Gore Temple Mountain (elevation 4200 meters), 3:40 p.m., after a "World High City" Litang. Long military vehicles drove from the opposite direction to see license plates, are the Tibetan army vehicles, mighty enough to have 100 or more. Written on the top face of each vehicle are different slogans such as "to pay tribute to the people along the Sichuan-Tibet," "army and people united as one Look at the world who the enemy", "The more you sweat in peacetime less bloody war," and so , rhyming, not rhyming, and Changzhangduanduan sentences. Interestingly, a hundred cars there is not even a slogan has been repeated. But Do not be a military vehicle with the words "to pay tribute to the masses," when the driving to us, but that does not make way for the masses, but rather like the yellow croaker like our car has always been close to the roadside with careful avoidance of military vehicles, he served as their full of energy to rub shoulders roaring past.
Continuing at an altitude of 3,500 meters above the area more than five hours, I and Anna began to altitude sickness, dizziness, nausea, lethargy. In order to minimize the symptoms, we seat practicing yoga, straight waist, head forced to the back of Yang, his eyes staring wide open, so feel comfortable. Other people on board a little puzzled, staring curiously watching.
18:00 minutes, arriving Inagi. Tomorrow morning bought a ticket from the Daocheng to Aden later, we went to booking a good hotel room Inagi power. What is a "hotel"? "Modern Chinese Dictionary" and explained that the "common place to entertain guests stay. Now refers to a larger and facilities for a good hotel." Hotel a total of two-tier power, scope Daoshi not too small I do not know whether the host to guests prior to the public sector, Anyway, enough of facilities, but the tongue is Sa. Our "standard rooms" on the second floor, walls mottled, chemical fiber of the bedspread had not come out to see true colors, and the room Yi Gu Chao taste, no tables, on the two beds and a long bench, the door that does not sound, wooden floor creak rattle stepped up to ring, I really fear that foot go directly to the first floor from the second floor, stopping by the. Want to change a room, look at other rooms, are similar. Chose "Inagi power guesthouse", is because I check the information, said Inagi can not stay in other parts of the bath, while the power level of public health between the hotel has hot spring water to bath, 5 yuan a . The young girl asked the waiter, and she brought us the bad news has been without water for two days --- Inagi can not bathe, to wash, then go to the hot springs outside the city to wash.
Power hotel restaurant on the first floor to eat, when encountered two young men had just returned from the Gulf of Aden. They said that in Aden Mt transferred for three days, every day live in tents, without conditions, wash, bathe, go with the girls want to wipe sunscreen does result wiping straight to the face under the dregs. Hear me and Anna stunned, but we are prepared, there are up remover wet tissues, hope it will not like them to suffer so much. Eat a meal, think about the next two days are probably not a bath, and we still want to go to hot springs soak.
Inagi few lights, road not repaired, and now are basically dirt road, we have one foot deep shallow kick to come to an Heigulongdong the heart of the so-called taxi, after waiting for Hao Bantian, before coming to a car. And the driver say well, he was waiting for us in the spa after a good wash, then we are back to hotel. Hot Springs about 5 kilometers away from Inagi, where abundant geothermal resources, the local Tibetans settled in this, they played a home to run the family hot spring bath, so the village is also called "bathing village." The maximum temperature hot springs upstream to downstream water is not hot, so get the upper reaches of the bath to wash we go. Driver led us directly to the relationship between the families of his home, his wife received a pair of Tibetan us. Spa baths are among a small house, each room dug a reservoir, paste tiles, will be cold, hot water pipes into the house, respectively, one was a pool of 15, two individuals were cleaning a tank is 20 yuan. The out of play, in order to reduce the load, I and Anna of shampoo, soap and other toiletries are shared, so we were cleaning a pool. The upper reaches of the Tibetan people in the hot springs, the water is very hot, you need to add cold water into the pool before. The body of the red bubble, I feel extremely weak, and breathing difficulties, rapid heart beat, severe head also so painful (I know of altitude sickness should not be hot bubble bath, but really can not resist the temptation to spring ... ...) to sit afraid of cold in the car, our heads wrapped in a towel like a two Arabs. Drivers know that we have altitude sickness, they took us to the hospital to buy two bags of oxygen. Back to the room, drill into the sleeping bag, you do not want to move the. Suck a bit of oxygen, did not feel any better. Mind is very clear, that is too lazy to speak. Some can not help but worry, Aden, much less than the Inagi conditions, elevation is also higher, we are able to deal with come?
Travel Tips
1, Inagi County, Tibetan name is rice dam, which means valley of the plains Mizoguchi, when the Eastern Han Qiang, the early Tang dynasty after the rise of the Tibetan Tubo occupied by the Qing dynasty, belonging to the jurisdiction of Litang toast; Qing Sichuan-Yunnan border services Secretary Chao ordered this to try to grow rice, the results slightly Xiaocheng, he hastened to report to the court power, gradually set up in this county, known as the "rice into a" in the final Kangding government jurisdiction; the Republic of China in order to control the Sichuan-Yunnan-Tibet border, Construction Xikang, the "rice into the county" to "Inagi County", was placed under Xikang; 55 years of Tibet's peaceful liberation, Xikang revoked, subsequently transferred to Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture of Sichuan Province since.
2, Rhodiola altitude sickness can be treated to remove the headache. Hot tea is also good medicine to alleviate altitude sickness, must have!
3, from the appearance point of view, Inagi's "Aden Community" condition is good, anyway, than we live in, "Inagi Power guesthouse" is much better (do not know phone).
4, Inagi power hotel Miss DUNN 0836-572829160 yuan / rooms. Bathing in the power of the local hotels on the first floor, 5 yuan / person. However, Inagi often without water, so the power hotel bathing facilities are also ineffective in.
5, switch to other online or User information (do not know in what conditions): PENG Song Gyatso (Tibetan houses name, Inagi the west side of county bridges), housing the master called Luo Rong Ye West (former county deputy secretary of the Political Consultative Conference Chairman) Telephone 0836-5728581; County Zhi Zhi Ma-Ma-house grid velvet 0836-5728469,0836-5728176 13698141061,45 Yuan / pack early and dinner.
Fees (2)
Yajiang Lunch 12
Inagi Power Hotel Dinner 28
Electric Power Hotel Accommodation 60
Taxi - Bus Station Gesar hotel to Kangding 4
Taxi - Inagi power to the hot spring bath 30 hotels
Inagi to Aden, 130 long-haul tickets
Spa bath (both share a pool) 20
Oxygen bag oxygenation fee 44
Total 328 day
Total cost of 4466.2
September 29, 2003 Inagi - Aden (pearl sea, Chonggu Si, Luorongniuchang)
5:30 am up. In order to save strength, we re-organize her luggage, to no access to the things in Aden deposited Inagi, what bath, shampoo and the like toiletries, a temporary farewell. Went dark long-distance station, altitude sickness remains the same, loss of appetite was very poor, in traffic hotel breakfast spread drank two bowls of porridge, bought a four boiled eggs to go into Aden.
Lama wearing a bright bright yellow cassock, his head with a purple hat, Messenger with a backpack in the car next to look around, I began to think that he is to give alms, to see him after the driver asked what car, empty seat, turned out he was going to Aden Chonggu Si, and (in Tibetan, Lama's position quite high, they are by car, eating in general do not have to spend money) I very much hope that it can sit in our cars, but also able to Lama chat, but we are already full to the brim of a car.
7:20 distribute cars. I glance right and left, looked at the surrounding passengers to see to what kind of people are Aden. People mostly from the same car yesterday to take the same bus from Kangding to Inagi's. Yesterday, a girl almost every 1 hour convenience requires the driver to stop what she is also in today's car, hope that today did not drink too much water; a couple of small Ting Kouyin like Shanghai, the wife of altitude sickness, a Chong Jin to temper her husband, the husband is always gently comforted her; a single girl along with a big hat to fend off a strong sunlight, is a graduate student at the time; there are several college students in the school Qiecuo photography skills; a facial expression of determination dark young man, then chaos and long hair (looked a bit rolling mat, but do not like to fight more Moss), a full set of Gore-Tex equipment, and later knew that he was on foot to the lake from the Gulf of Aden; Some foreign workers have been using a mixture of Chinese and English words to talk with, so I feel as if they were returned to the office ... ...
Daocheng to Aden from the road, the road most of the time vehicles are driving on the yellow ground, Fortunately, our bus Yaxing relatively high, but added less to eat soil. Aden ticketing point of some inexplicably Aden located at a distance of 30 kilometers of protected areas there are places, the conductor said, because some people on foot to Aden, and here is the way this can ensure that no one slip through the net. Tickets are quite expensive, however, 128 of money one.
Transfer to the car in the mountains around, when Xian Nairi Kamiyama displayed in front of us, our car is broken, oil spills. Would not have called the driver to stop the camera, he spent 40 minutes to repair. Has opened at the Geneva Township in time to see a web-famous "Wizard of Aden," hostels. 11:30, by Aden cloudy dam. Gathered here, hill and dale of the groom and horses (later know, the Aden area local farmers each have a groom, there are more than 2000 horses do), selling Sweepstake unified management of the government, and we bought tickets to queue up on waiting for them to specify the groom (I read online from the Mix said he could groom their own choosing, but we have no choice). Some tourists want to reach into the mountain, hire a horse dedicated to their six pack backpack, but the groom life and death not agree, saying that people riding horses, not pack things, pack goods is the mule. We at loggerheads over, the staff put that talk bad girl groom groom and another one assigned to me and Anna (probably to see if we look familiar bar), we hesitated, unwilling to "thorn" as partners, but they insist on , we yielded. Not far out, a little boy has replaced the girl under the groom.
Echinops groom name is "Little Golden Pearl" 40-year-old age Heishou, hats and suits for years, have not see true colors, and wore a pair of shoes for military; little boy named "Luo Cashmere" is small Tandup nephew, heads a very short, also dressed in old suits and shoes, evidently also 10 years old, asked did I learn that he had 15 years old. Luo velvet smoke pits them ferocious, that not less than that in small Deng beads, a pair of eyes Diliu Liu milling, he was envious of uncle's hat, also told us that he would also like to be able to have a hat (I think he is spotted, and Anna our hat, but we are afraid of drying, she could not give him). Luo velvet was still in primary school these days to the peak tourist season, many people on horseback, his father became ill, he would come out to make money for the parent Qian Ma, schools, a daily fine of 20 money.
Tibetans have no surnames, only names, duplicate names is common, they are used in the name by adding attributive so-called "Golden Pearl River 2," etc., so that distinction opened.
From the cloudy dam out of beads and Luo Xiao-Deng Rong was very take care of their horses, since we prefer to carry their own backpack 60 liters, but also refused to let their Male with. Aden has been 4,000 meters above sea level, and the plateau of the sun is very strong poison, we are fully prepared, thickly coated with sunscreen, Lip oil, dark glasses, brim presses Didi De, gloves, scarves , wrapped Yanyanshishi, just like the old movies where the female agent. Just behind the oxygen bag leak a secret, a look is not a local agent.
A total of three holy mountains in Aden, Xian Nairi, Yang Maiyong and Xianuoduoji snow-capped mountains, representing the Goddess of Mercy (elevation 6023 meters), Manjusri Bodhisattva (elevation 5958 meters) and Vajrapani (elevation 5958 meters). According to "National Geographic" magazine's research, that Aden is the British writer Hilton's lines, "Lost Horizon" in the description of Shangri-La, so the growing reputation of Aden two years (since the Hilton wrote a book later, dozens of years, countless people are looking for a real Shangri-La, Shangri-La County, Yunnan appeared, Aden called themselves the "real Shangri-La").
In a small way to walk through along the roadside, according to a small number of tall Mani Dui Tandup say that there are hundreds of years (Ma Nidui is for the Tibetan people to build a monument to the dead, dead people are not buried in Mani Dui beneath Conditions are mostly the wealthy have piled Mani Dui).
Today the weather good, blue skies, is a good time to look at Haizi (Haizi a plateau after the snow melt to accumulate in the formation of low-lying plateau lakes), small Golden beads suggests that we see today, "Pearl Sea", on the Chonggu Si near the camp. Long-long ride from the dam out in half an hour to the Chonggu Si, this section if the words may have to walk 2-3 hours or so, we really walk, were we tired the whole altitude sickness. Climbed over a mountain is not high you can see pearl sea, we still choose horse riding. Uphill, downhill, and we rode on horseback on a rock with laughter.
Pearl sea Xian Nairi Kamiyama left on the pool made of snow, sparkling in the sun like a speckled ground pearls, hence the name "Pearl Sea." Kamiyama-oriented tree, festooned with white hada and the streamer, the small Tandup they have to come here every year, worship mountain, he asked repeatedly said that hand washing is not allowed inside Haizi, it is Kamiyama's irreverent, Finally he just sat smoking and looking at the edge of Hai Zi (in fact I did not Daixin Anna 1:00).
Blue sky, white clouds, Haizi, Hada, streamer, groom, we can do is take pictures, take a deep breath, with greedy eyes, everything included down to this.
Chonggu Si horse returned to camp, hungry. Drilling a wooden tie-up restaurant, in the wooden bench to sit down. We looked at the kitchen can eat much (Aden is located in the plateau, the main types of barley, barley, yak meat is meat, but very few vegetables, so a vegetable is necessary to 10 money). Point of the bitter melon, scrambled eggs, and several other vegetables, and gave them to a small Tandup fried yak meat. Outside, mule in yelling, horses grazing; house, groom their puff, with Tibetan loudly greet, chat; ubiquitous flies were merrily dancing in the tourists with a variety of dialects talk From the face to tell what has just been into the mountains. Bustling!
Rice complete, launched forward. Aden time this season a little early for some, late autumn, if half of the maximum degree of saturation. 4点半，到了洛绒牛场，我们将在这里过夜。洛绒牛场在两山之间的背风地带，共有5、6间房子，早就住满了，我们只能住帐篷，12个人一蓬，大通铺，男女混住。亚丁的管理很差，明明可以做到男女分住的，但是偏不，来了游客，他们就按顺序一个个地排号安排进帐篷。平时帐篷中的床位15块钱一位，这几天到了旅游旺季，一位50块。这里的人基本都是藏民，汉语不好，说多了他们就听不懂（也不知是真不懂还是装傻）。小登珠和洛绒跟我们一起进了帐篷，往床上一坐（他们俩裤子上全是土，我和Anna真有心让他们别坐床上，可是帐篷里除了床，其他什么都没有了），俩人开始说服我们应该去“五色海”和“牛奶海”看看，说比珍珠海美得多，还想让我们马上就动身（我们明白他们的用意，今天我们把所有的景点都看过了，明天一早就能够返回龙龙坝，他们就又能排队等着下一拨游客了），可是天色已晚，我们也累了，不想这么紧张。最后说好明天一早他们带我俩去看两个海子，一人100块钱，小登珠和洛绒终于咧着嘴满意地走了，我们的耳根终于清静了（我发现亚丁的马夫执著得很，不达目的不罢休，游客有高原反应，没有力气和他们争辩，他们又仗着是藏族，软磨硬泡，一般都能得逞）。
要参观牛场的几座抢手的房子，需要穿过一片沼泽地。有牛粪的地方，证明没有危险，我们在牛粪堆中蹦蹦跳跳地前行，不小心就会一脚踏在牦牛粪堆上。亚丁美景神圣，“可远观而不可亵玩焉”，雪山至今无人能够登顶，海子不能触碰，就连清抚一下清澈的小溪里的水，也是刺骨的冷，马上觉得手都不是自己的了。
晚上去牛场唯一的餐厅去吃东西，人满为患，昏暗的灯光也掩饰不了满屋飞舞的油烟。高原反应的折磨让我们没有食欲，但是为了维持体力，我们必须要吃东西。要了2碗面条，竟然等了1个半小时，水煮不开。
出了浓重油烟味道的餐厅，空气马上变得冷而清新，月亮已经爬上山头了。山里就只有牛场附近的几盏灯光，其他地方都是伸手不见五指，游客们吃饱了以后就在帐篷外面坐着（不能溜达，太黑了，看不见脚下，危险），数着天上的星星发呆。坐在长凳上，旁边是个上海女孩（人长什么样子根本看不见，只能听声音）是第一次见到雪山，激动得不行，对亚丁的美景啧啧称赞。我和Anna回到帐篷里，和同床的几个广州女孩聊天，他们也去过很多地方了，新疆的卡纳斯、云南的迪庆等等，我们有同样的的感受，亚丁的景色并不算最美的，但却是最艰苦的，长途劳顿之后，什么景色都会觉得美的一塌糊涂。
晚上不敢喝水，我领教过这里的“厕所”，本来因为高原反应有些恶心，一进厕所我就赶紧跳了出来，哇哇地开始吐。
亚丁非常闭塞，手机完全没有了用途，就连座机，也是只能打到稻城，其他地方根本无法联络。电视和广播都没有信号，晚上没有事情可做，9点钟大家就纷纷回到各自的帐篷准备安歇了。钻进睡袋，怕有蚊虫叮咬，每个人都将睡袋的收口勒得紧紧地，只露出鼻子。 15瓦的灯光下，躺着2排睡袋，看上去就像停尸房一样恐怖。我们帐篷有5位男士，没一会就酣声大作，帐篷外面不时传来几声马嘶，我躲在睡袋里听得一清二楚。有人说有跳蚤，于是我的每一寸皮肤都变得异常敏感，汗毛都竖起来了。
现在就一个想法，盼着快点天亮。
旅行小贴士
1、 稻城-日瓦乡(74公里)-亚丁村龙龙坝(36公里)
2、 亚丁马费是官方牌价，亚丁村-冲古寺单程30元/人，冲古寺-洛绒牛场单程35元/人，冲古寺-珍珠海单程20元/人。有趣的是，从亚丁-洛绒牛场的全程是65元，分段也是65元，应该全程便宜些才是啊。
3、 前往亚丁一定要谨慎，实在太艰苦。看同样的景色可以到云南迪庆，路好走，吃、住、行都好得多。
4、 洛绒牛场海拔4100米。
费用（2人）
稻城早餐6
亚丁冲古寺午餐48
洛绒牛场晚餐20
亚丁洛绒牛场帐篷100
亚丁门票256
单程租马至洛绒牛场130
租马去珍珠海40
单程租马从洛绒牛场下山130
当天合计730
累计花费5196.2
2003年9月30日 亚丁（五色海、牛奶海）-稻城
一晚上昏昏沉沉地，帐篷外面的马匹有一点点骚动，我从睡袋里探出头，天刚蒙蒙亮，看看手表，不到6点钟。头痛好多了，昨天晚上我和Anna洒在褥子上的半瓶风油精，现在味道依然刺鼻（我们没带沙姜粉，这是我们能实施的唯一的驱虫方法了）。睡在大通铺上，一点动静就会引起连锁反应，一个个脑袋都从睡袋里伸了出来，互相问问有没有跳蚤昨夜造访，帐篷里渐渐活跃起来。穿好衣服，我和Anna跳下床，用漱口水漱嘴、用湿纸巾擦脸，去餐厅排队讨些热水泡茶。早饭是我们从北京带来的饼干、从稻城带来的茶鸡蛋和从康定带来的苹果（昨天同帐的几个广州女孩想吃水果，就向其他游客高价购买，竟然没有一个囤积居奇的游客）。
昨天和小邓珠约好早上7点钟出发去牛奶海和五色海，他和洛绒准时来了。洛绒的头发很乱，睡眼惺忪，他们早上3点钟就起床了，从龙龙坝走过来的（舍不得骑马）。今天是阴天，小邓珠说每年过节的时候，亚丁的天气都不好，因为来访的游客太多，神山震怒，不愿意展露容颜（藏民对神山有着无上的崇拜，并不希望有游客来访；但是没有游客，无法发展旅游，他们又赚不到钱，所以藏民对游客总是有着复杂的心情）。昨天在马背上的时间太长了，我和Anna的屁股都磨破了，很疼，今天虽然雇了马匹，但还是踌躇着不上马。能让马匹多休息一会，小邓珠和洛绒面露喜色。没一会就开始上山了，路不好走，我们只得上马。于是，我们的《登山三部曲》开始了。
第一部 《土路前奏曲》 行板、中速 半小时
路面---雨水冲刷形成的沟，土质非常疏松。
山路坡度：约30度。
趴在马背上，不敢喘大气，怕马蹄踩在松软的土上打滑。
第二部 《石头记》 活泼的散板 半小时
路面：长时间被水冲刷的非常圆滑的石头。
山路坡度：约45度。
马匹开始打响鼻、喘粗气，马蹄踩在石头上面经常打滑。我和Anna下马了，怕马失前蹄，与其在马背上担惊受怕，不如用自己的双脚去行走，心里还踏实些。马派不上用场，洛绒就牵马下山休息了，剩下小邓珠继续陪我们上山。
第三部 《匍匐进行曲》 慢板 1个半小时
路面：生长着高原地衣和苔藓。
山路坡度：大于60度。
必须手脚并用才能前行，手套起了很大的作用，名副其实的“爬山”！喘气，大口地喘气。
2个半小时跋涉之后，我们终于站到了仙乃日神山的背面，海拔5000米！恐怕这会是我们此生能够爬上的最高点了。和Anna紧紧拥抱！
小邓珠盘着腿目无表情地坐在石头上抽烟。
珍珠海在仙乃日神山的正面，而五色海在神山的背面，都是雪水融化形成的海子。五色海面积比珍珠海要小得多，天气不好看不到许多的颜色。远处看过去就是牛奶海，面积更加小了。有些驴友还去过“青蛙海”，问了小邓珠，他说远得很，面积也不大，我们也就作罢。在高原上，体力消耗很大，很短的距离走起来都会花很大的气力。坐在背风的地方，我们把氧气袋里的最后一点氧气吸光。这时候还不到10点钟，小邓珠很是高兴，催促着我们尽快下山，希望早些回到龙龙坝去排队迎接下一拨游客。
我们上山比较早，下山的时候大队人马才开始往上走。我们迈着轻松的步伐，唱着小曲，时不时地给气喘吁吁的登山者打打气。小邓珠身材消瘦，不爱说话，以前曾经在苏州当过3年兵，背着我们俩的双肩背包，一直跑在前边。我称赞他爬山就象只羚羊，他却不太高兴，觉得我在嘲笑他。我从背包里取出了在稻城买的茶鸡蛋，递给小登珠，他拿过来，两口就吃完了。又给他一个，他放在兜里，说是留给洛绒吃（亚丁当地不养鸡，鸡蛋都是从稻城运过来的。交通不便，运输成本很高，鸡蛋运到这里价格很贵，当地人一般吃不起）。他在兜里摸了一会，掏出了一个栗子，说是游客给的，问我这个硬壳的东西叫什么，他以前没见过。
中午从洛绒牛场取回了寄存的60升大背包，准备离开亚丁了。马儿也知道他们该回家了，迈着轻快的步伐一溜小跑。 1点钟，我们回到了冲古寺。在《消失的地平线中》中，冲古寺是一个非常重要的所在，主人公在寺中观雪山、赏仙乐，领略东方的神秘。在我的想象中，一座建在悬崖边上的寺庙，宏伟；站在巨大的广场上，三座神山巍然屹立在眼前，壮观！但是真正的冲古寺却与我的想象大相径庭。第一，它不在悬崖边上，而是在一个小坡上；第二，它很小，只有2层，全寺一共3个喇嘛；第三，几乎没有院子，规模和一般的藏民家差不多（如果亚丁真是希尔顿笔下的香格里拉的话，那他可算是一位浪漫主义作家了，与李白笔下“白发三千丈”同出一辙）。山不在高，有仙则名，冲古寺虽小，藏民的虔诚却不因寺庙小而缩水，前来朝拜的藏民不断，Anna也在高僧那里请了一串开光的佛珠。
又到昨天吃午饭的那家冲古寺营地的餐厅填饱肚子，洛绒一个劲地示意我们给小费，别看他才15岁，市侩气十足，我们装傻。
到了龙龙坝，没容得我们和小登珠和洛绒告别，他们就急急忙忙地牵着马去排队等游客了，头也不回地走了。回稻城的大巴没有时间表，不知道几点钟来。我们把行李扔在路边，Anna去了卫生间。
“想包车吗？”一个浑厚的男中音在耳边，我回头看，一个黝黑的汉子站在一辆2020吉普车旁边。
“去稻城多少钱？”我问他。
“200块钱”这个价钱有点出乎意料，坐大巴还要130块钱呢。看我满脸疑惑，司机告诉我，他也要回稻城，顺路拉我们。我看他的车是“云”字牌照，就问他，“你从哪里来的？”“中甸。我明天回中甸，今天晚上住稻城。”听到这里我心里乐开了花，可以直接包他的车去中甸。讲好了行程和价格，亚丁---稻城（今晚宿稻城）---乡城---香格里拉大峡谷（明晚宿大峡谷）---中甸（后天中午抵达），一共1000块。
等Anna从卫生间回来，已经成交了。我们又有专车了！
司机是藏族人，名叫“龙松区批”，简称“龙批”，今天刚刚送了一个从成都小伙子从中甸到亚丁，不想空车回去，顺路拉些游客。我问他怎么知道我们俩是要返回稻城而不是刚到亚丁的，他不说，只是一个劲的笑。我和Anna相对一看，嗨，这脸色不是明摆着吗？再呆两天，估计也该抹仿晒霜掉渣了。
3点50分从亚丁龙龙坝出来，7点钟就回到了稻城。到卫生院退掉氧气袋的押金。然后去传说中的那家有“真正”标准间的、能够洗上热水澡的、刚刚开业的、大名鼎鼎的“亚丁宾馆”入住（在亚丁的时候，）。听说前两天酒店的价钱是240块钱，龙批想给我们省点钱，带我们转了好几家酒店，问了问都不能洗澡，可我们这时候心里想的就是，不管多少钱，只要能洗澡就行。最后还是去了亚丁宾馆，涨价了，350块钱。前台服务员小姐是我们在稻城和亚丁见到的最漂亮的MM了，门钥匙却只给一个，PLMM振振有词地告诉我们：“一间房只有一把钥匙，你们俩既然是一起的，要两把钥匙做什么？”------无语------拿钥匙------上楼……
亚丁宾馆餐厅是稻城地区最高级的餐厅，正在接待中央电视台的摄制组，是来拍摄亚丁风光的。 “高原无鳞鱼”据说异常鲜美，竟然卖完了，遗憾（不知道是否都进了电视台记者们的肚子）！几个当地小孩趴在餐厅窗外偷看，想看看住在这么高级的小楼里的人都吃些什么。心酸哪。
在餐厅定好明早的路餐（我们6点出发，早餐还没开始供应，餐厅提供的带在路上吃的东西叫“路餐”）后回到房间，脱下外套伸出窗口抖一抖，尘土落下的声音细细簌簌的。水龙头里流出的热水就象林黛玉的眼泪，总是不能痛快些。有热水总比没有热水强，房间里还有卫生间呢，我们挺知足。
旅行小贴士
1. 今天去牛奶海和五色海付200块钱就有点冤，上山的时候骑了不到半小时的马，后来都是步行的。如果实在想去的话，就不要骑马了，太危险，自己爬上山就行了，不需要马夫带路，就一条路，绝对不会走错。
2. 亚丁宾馆是稻城地区唯一的一家星级宾馆（好像是2星），也是唯一的一家能在房间里洗热水澡的酒店，牌价480元，平时至少打5折，旺季350元/间。
3. 在亚丁宾馆餐厅里听说“德荣太阳谷”风景不错，照片上有雪山、海子和峡谷，但是和我们的路线不一致，没去。
费用（2人）
亚丁冲古寺午餐53
稻城亚丁宾馆晚餐63
住宿亚丁宾馆350
租马去五色海200
当天合计666
累计花费5862.2
2003年10月1日 稻城---乡城----香格里拉大峡谷---中甸
一觉醒来，在亚丁的疲惫没有了，高原反应也消失了。我和Anna收拾好行李下楼，龙批已经在大堂里等了，接过我们手中的行李，带我们到车上。
早上7点15分，淡淡的月亮还在天边迟迟不肯离开，远处雪山的轮廓已经依稀可见，初升的启明星预示着新的一天的来临。路上没有行人，在颠簸中，我们离开了尚在睡梦朦胧中的稻城，却没有向她道“再见”。
从川西南向滇西北前进，1个小时以后，到达了“无名雪山”垭口（这里没有雪，不知为什么叫“雪山”，海拔4100米。乡城河从巴塘流下，在这里汇入了金沙江）。
9点，抵达乡城吃早饭。 Anna吃面条，我和龙批吃饺子。龙批人很老实，一直抑制自己的食欲，吃得很少，劝他多吃些也没用（也许是饭菜不合口味）。
从外表看，龙批是一个典型的康巴汉子，身高1米8，黑红的脸膛、卷曲浓密的黑头发、大眼睛，笑的时候露出一口雪白的牙齿（这口牙不但雪白，而且坚固，能够咬碎核桃呢，还不是薄皮的。牙膏厂家可以考虑找康巴汉子做广告了）。他的性格内向，话不多（在我们相处的几天里，我们一直想骗他给我们唱个藏族歌，他却始终扭捏着没有唱，说自己在跳“锅庄”的时候只是个伴唱，不是主唱，唱不好。后来一直被我们嘲笑，说他不大方，不像个藏族汉子）。
自从早上从稻城出来以后，路况就一直不好，沿途全都在修路，龙批说四川道路不好，限制了跨省旅游，所以四川省就下决心将从四川到云南的路修好。路面已经用轧路机轧过，还没有铺石子和柏油，高原天气干燥，路面都是浮土，车子跑起来一溜烟，要是赶上前边还有车，简直是昏天黑地，路都看不见。 2020吉普车的越野性尚可，但是密封性却很差，尘土从门缝、窗户钻了进来。车外，尘土快乐地舞蹈；车内，尘土也是轻舞飞扬。我和Anna全副武装起来。 1、带上帽子，遮住头部和前额；2、我拉起了戴帽衫上的帽子，Anna围上了围巾，将脖子挡住；3、戴上墨镜，挡住双眼；4、将“非典”期间最最流行的“大口罩”戴在脸上。我们特别挑选了最厚的、纱布的、尺寸最大的口罩。这样武装唯一的缺点就是---太闷了，高原的太阳很毒，在车里捂一会也出汗了。到了路况好些的地方，我们就卸下武装，喘口气；看到前方有情况，马上披挂整齐。几次操练以后，我们俩整装的速度极快，5秒钟完毕。路上颠簸，在后排颠得更是剧烈，甚至会被颠起来撞到头顶，我们俩就象大猩猩一样，伸出双手吊在头顶上方车子的横梁上。驾驶员身后，两个戴口罩的蒙面人吊在车子横梁上，一些修路的民工从车的正前方往车里一看，从他们的表情就能看得出，我们的打扮怪吓人的。
“哈拉嗦哈拉嗦”，前方传来歌声，一个藏族民工挥舞着手中的铁镐在刨土修路，已经刨了1米多深了，他站在坑里，铁镐随着他的歌声一起一伏地露出地面。
这就是藏族劳动号子，音乐应该“来源于生活而高于生活”，所以这还不算是“音乐”。
‖: 6 6 2 — 0︱6 6 4 — 0 :‖
哈啦``嗦 哈啦嗦
口罩没戴一会，在两个鼻孔的地方就出现了两个黄点，我想出了一个主意---用矿泉水把口罩浸湿。啊，感觉好极了，有一种雨后泥土的味道。让龙批把车停在路边有溪水的地方，我们拿出小香皂，在溪水中把口罩洗干净。戴湿口罩的好处多多---1、抵挡尘土的能力大大增强；2、能够降温；3、补水，就当是做了一个“水面膜”。溪水好冷啊，洗完口罩手冻得像胡萝卜。
每次停车，龙批就要检查一下车子，把车前盖打开鼓弄鼓弄，还擦擦车。他说稻城的汽油很脏，把他的喷油嘴堵了。我猜他以前当过兵，而且还是司机班的。 Bingo!全部猜对，他很诧异（后来我又猜准了几件事，龙批对我有些崇拜，觉得我能掐会算，象是喇嘛一样能够未卜先知）。其实我的理由很简单，1、只有当过司机的人才会一停车就检修车辆、擦车；2、他修车很懂行，象我们这些从驾校毕业的，根本不会自己排除故障；3、他握方向盘和打轮的姿势，一看就是开卡车出身，总是“掏轮”。再加上他的眼神和举止，就差在脸上写上“我当过司机兵”了。
下午1点半，到了川滇交界处。从这里开始，就驶入了云南迪庆境内，路开始变得平坦了。终于可以卸下武装，尽情享受呼吸了。这一路上，有不少与我们背道而驰的车辆，正向亚丁方向前进。我们计划是从亚丁-中甸-丽江，海拔越来越低，道路越来越好走，住宿和饮食条件也越来越好，算是苦尽甘来。而他们则正相反。向所有愿意“先甜后苦”旅友们的大无畏精神致敬！
下午2点半，到达“大雪山”垭口，就是当年红军“爬雪山，过草地”的大雪山。驶过碧荣峡谷（藏语发音为Bi Zong），是小雪山。每到垭口，我们都停下来四处观察一下，垭口的风很大，空气中飘着点点雪花。一大片山坡有被火烧过的痕迹，树木全都烧焦了，黑炭一般，没有一点生气。山火发生于20年前，然而高原地区的生态系统相当脆弱，植被一旦被破获，恢复起来却相当缓慢。
下午3点40分，我们到了一个新开发的景点“香格里拉大峡谷”，要在这里打尖+住店。吃饭的时候，龙批遇到一个熟人，以前在武警当司机，他们曾经一起参加过汽车越野拉力赛，拉着游客刚刚从梅里雪山过来。从他那里，我们得到了重要信息，并因此改变了后面的行程。
梅里雪山位于藏区八大神山之首，每年的秋末冬初都有大批藏民从西藏、青海、甘肃、四川等地不远千里前去朝拜。今年是羊年，梅里雪山也是属羊的，今年恰逢是梅里雪山70年一遇的生日（这是按照藏历计算的，我不知道算法。神山也有属性的，这也是第一次知道），前去转山的喇嘛和藏民人数非常众多。 70年一遇的盛大场面，下次肯定赶不上了，这摆在眼前的热闹我们岂能错过？ !
经过仔细的规划，我们决定放弃游览香格里拉大峡谷，今天前往中甸住宿，明天一早出发去梅里雪山。饭毕，钻进已经冲洗得干干净净的车子，我们又出发了。
3个小时以后，在晚上8点钟到了中甸。好人龙批又带我们比较了好几家酒店，最后入住市中心的中甸跨世纪酒店。安顿好我们，他回家了。他家在松赞林寺附近，离中甸5公里，很近，明早来接我们。
晚饭不必吃了，但是我对身上的脏衣服实在深恶痛绝，坚持要把散发着尘土清香的衣服好好洗洗。问了酒店和路边的洗衣店，都不能在明早把衣服洗好，只能自理了。
去超市买了洗衣粉。回到酒店，两个洗衣女工开始了劳作，将里里外外包括口罩在内的全部脏衣服洗了个遍。
看看泡衣服的水，怎一个“脏”字了得？ !
旅行小贴士
1、 龙批，全名“龙松区批”，手机：13087426673，电话：0887-8223403，开4驱2020吉普车。亚丁-稻城-中甸-梅里雪山-中甸，全程一共1800元。
2、 如果你不想被尘土呛死，口罩必带！带小香皂，能在溪水里洗口罩。
3、 强烈建议按照我们的行程，先去亚丁然后再去中甸，原因我前面说过了。否则欲哭无泪的时候别怪我没提醒过你啊!
4、 中甸跨世纪大酒店，地址：云南省香格里拉县城长征路4号，电话：0887-8228500。房价：250元。淡季要便宜得多。
5、 香格里拉大峡谷是个新景点，如果时间允许的话，可以停留参观一下。住在藏民开的“白马饭店”，价格不知道，不能洗澡。
费用（2人）
乡城早餐14
乡城水果2
香格里拉大峡谷晚餐76
中甸超市41.5
中甸跨世纪酒店250
乡城停车费3
当天合计386.5
累计花费6248.7
2003年10月2日 中甸—奔子栏—白马雪山--梅里雪山、明永冰川
出来好几天了，每天起得都很早，但是依然精力充沛（我们真的没吃广告中说那些xxx口服液）。又是7点15分出发。龙批昨天去修车，晚上2点钟才睡，看上去精神也不错。
7点半到了纳帕海，路边有一些摄影爱好者支好相机在等日出。龙批对摄影家们经常停下来拍照的地方了如指掌，总是直接把我们拉到最好的位置拍照，不过本人水平不行，就算有好位置也拍不出好照片，惭愧!
虽然都是藏族，但是不同地区的藏族人也有着很大差别。四川康定、丹巴地区的藏族姑娘漂亮，大眼睛、长睫毛；而川西南地区到西藏，藏族人却变成了小眼睛。他们的共性就是都有着标志性的“高原红”。康定地区的藏族房屋是土坯房，稻城地区的房屋是石头堆砌的，而中甸地区的藏房则是木头的。共性是外形都象碉堡一样，方方正正。我惊诧藏民将房屋外面的每个棱角都做到刀切一般笔直，龙批说他们盖房子的时候是外面先找齐，屋子里面的墙壁是凹凸不平的，再用泥巴抹平。
9点钟到了金沙江和尼西河的交汇处，尼西河的水很清，而金沙江顾名思义是浑浊的。尼西河要用自己清白之身洗去金沙江的污浊，千百年来一直如此，而当她的清白与金沙江交汇时，甚至感觉不到那混浊有一点点减轻。金沙江咆哮着，玷污了尼西河，还卷着她一起前行，心中不免有一丝伤感。
9点15分，奔子栏吃早午饭。从成都去亚丁大部分走的是川藏公路，从中甸去梅里雪山是滇藏公路。奔子栏是滇藏路上的一个重要的城镇，过了这里，就得一鼓作气到梅里了。
10点半，“长江第一湾”，标准的“几”字形，若干年后经过“裁弯取直”，该不会有这样的景象了。路边一个外国小伙子要搭车，他的自行车坏了，要去德钦与朋友会合。虽然头发和胡子长得像长跑时的“阿甘”，但身上的衣服并不脏，清澈的蓝眼睛里也充满了友善，我们就让他坐在了副驾驶的位置。小伙子来自澳洲，到中国的时候一句中文也不会讲，他一边骑车一边学语言已经转悠半年多了，嘴里也能蹦出一些晦涩的中文了（后来与公司的一个澳洲老板说起这件事，他自豪地说：这充分证明了我们澳洲人具有冒险精神）。
11点到了白马雪山（有的书上叫“白茫雪山”），是金沙江和澜沧江的分水岭，是云南省面积最大、海拔最高的自然保护区（我肉眼凡胎，没看出景色有什么过人之处）。
梅里雪山位于云南省德钦县东北部10公里处，是滇藏界山。平均海拔在6000米以上的山峰就有13座，最高峰叫“卡瓦格博”，海拔6740米，为云南省第一高峰。卡瓦格博藏语为“雪山之神”，藏传佛教的朝拜胜地，传说是宁玛派分支伽居巴的保护神，位居藏区八大神山之首。她是一座金字塔形的雪山，被誉为“世界最美之山”。 20世纪内，英国、美国、日本、中国的登山队曾5次大规模登山，或抱憾而归，或魂归梅里，至今无人登顶。
距离梅里雪山越来越近，就看到越来越多的身背干粮的喇嘛、藏民徒步向他们的心中圣地前进，每个人的眼中都充满了执著和顽强。朝拜神山叫“转山”，就是手里拿着转经筒，围着神山念经。转山分为“大转”和“小转”，大转就是把整个梅里雪山绕一圈，大约需要1个多月的时间。小转就是绕小圈，大约10天半个月左右。龙批去年11月也曾参加小转，10几天里，几个人风餐露宿，但心如芷水，象是得到了重生。远离喧闹的都市，劳累了身体，放松了心情，反思自己走过的道路，权衡一下得失，淡薄了名利，所以我和Anna也出来走江湖，虽没有任何宗教意味，却也恬淡了心灵。
飞来寺是观看梅里雪山最好的地点，有中国摄影家协会的摄影点。 13个高大的白塔一字排开，代表了梅里13峰。远处的梅里雪山被厚厚的云挡住，看不到；近处虔诚的进香客进献的经幡和哈达也成了厚厚的布墙，水泄不通。龙批请了一包香火，用松枝沾着水，一边向天上洒去一边念经，然后把松枝和大米、松子一起扔进火塘中。松枝在火中发出噼噼啪啪的声音，浓烟滚滚。据说点燃松枝的烟大，而松香味道和浓烟都能够愉悦神山，大米和松子是祈福丰收。
3点钟到了梅里雪山脚下的明永村，要在这里过夜。一家一家的问下去，所有的旅馆都满了，最后问到一家还没开业的藏族家庭旅馆，有房间，可是装修还没完，窗户连玻璃都没有，年轻的藏族女房东怀里抱着还在吃奶的婴儿，希望我们住下。从亚丁回来以后，再差的条件对于我们而言也不算什么了。
远远的就能够看到梅里明永冰川，这几天刮风，冰川上蒙上了尘土，变成了黑灰色。明永冰川从海拔5500米往下延伸至2700米的森林地带，是罕见的低纬度、高海拔季风海洋性现代冰川。
我们4点钟从明永村出发，徒步登冰川（在亚丁骑马受的伤现在还没好，一听到马脖子上的铃铛响，我们就揪心）。有两条路可以选，一条是路远缓坡；另一条是路近陡坡，我们选择前者。明永村的海拔只有1000多米，已经能够种植玉米了，而我们需要到达的海拔却在2700米！走啊，走啊，不停地向上攀登。一路上，有很多景点立着标志牌，什么“狸猫从这里去了印度”，“阿妈的马尼堆”之类的，非常多，都是些宗教典故，我们赶时间，没有仔细看。
2个小时以后，登上观景台，冰川近在咫尺，寒气逼人，我们身上确是透湿。冰川的移动速度缓慢，但是力量却极大，像一把锋利的尖刀，将山体一块块割裂开来。空气中飘着细小的雨夹雪，安静，非常的安静。
天已经擦黑，我们不能久留，必须尽快下山。这时山上已经没什么人了，要是迷路困在山里可不是好玩的。一溜小跑下山，还没到山下，天就已经黑了。在树林中穿行，月光照不进来，我们使劲盯着眼前的路，加快了步伐，快，快！ 1个小时后，终于听到水声了，记得山脚下有一条河，我们到了。 “你们回来了！”迎面听到了龙批的声音，他来接我们了，说是天黑怕我们迷路（我感动得眼眶都湿了，不过天黑他没看到）。
饭桌上，喝着藏族房东斟上的青稞酒，听者电视里播放的藏族歌曲，看着年轻的藏族母亲给婴儿喂奶，我们睡眼朦胧了。我和Anna来之前就已经预订好了5号从丽江回北京的机票，所以必须要在4号之前抵达丽江。时间紧张，这次不得不放弃梅里大部分景点---温泉、雨崩、瀑布和大本营，但是70年一次的大型拜山我们算是见识了。龙批托他在中甸的朋友帮我们订好了明天下午4点的去丽江的长途车票，我给丽江的和中龙先生打了电话，告诉他我们明天晚上就到，听到那熟悉的丽江口音，心里好踏实。
回到房间一开灯，屋里竟然钻进了一只蝙蝠，它一圈一圈地绕着房间飞，找不到出去的窗户了。叫来藏族房东帮我们把蝙蝠请出去，他高兴地说：“屋里钻进蝙蝠说明我们很有福气”。请出蝙蝠，赶紧拉上窗帘，怕它杀个回马枪。
房间里没有桌椅，我们的全部家当都铺在了地上，留下窄窄的走路通道。被褥很干净，还奢求什么呢？睡吧。
旅行小贴士
1、 中甸-松赞林寺（5公里）
中甸距离梅里雪山一共578公里。中甸---纳帕海（10公里）---奔子栏（81公里）---长江第一湾（130公里）----白马雪山（149公里）---梅里雪山（578公里）。
2、 爬明永冰川最好还是白天，不要象我们一样天黑了登山，太不安全了，好长的一段路上手机都没有信号，迷了路可真是叫天天不应了。
3、 游梅里雪山大约需要3天时间，推荐日程，第一天登冰川，第二天去温泉、雨崩，第三天去瀑布、大本营。
费用（2人）
奔子栏早／午餐30
明永冰川晚餐50
明永村“冰川小花园”住宿80
明永冰川门票126
飞来寺烧香4
当天合计290
累计花费6,538.7
2003年10月3日 梅里雪山---中甸---丽江
清晨把铺在木地板上的全部家当都塞进了背包，庆幸一晚上竟然没有蚊子来骚扰。
告别了梅里雪山脚下的明永村，去飞来寺看日出。不是每个人都能有幸看到梅里雪山日出的，据说一睹那景象，其他雪山都会显得黯淡无光。到了飞来寺是7点钟，路边密密麻麻地架满了相机，所有的目光都汇聚在雪山方向，生怕漏掉太阳从雪山上升起的那一刻。
路边没有立脚的地方，我们就登上了路边一家餐厅的房顶。今天云层很厚，我们一直等到天完全亮了，也没有看到太阳，一点点遗憾（梅里神山也不愿见生人）。在餐厅里吃早饭，有一种藏族馍馍很好吃，非常松软、香甜，我们多买了一些在路上吃。
11点我们又回到了奔子栏吃午饭。这一路上，龙批跟我们讲了很多有关藏族的文化、风俗和传说。
问：为什么藏族人不吃鱼？
答：有很多种说法，其中一种说法就是：鱼本是上天的神，触犯了天条被割了舌头贬下凡。藏族人认为，鱼本是神，已经被惩罚不能开口了，还要把它吃掉，太可怜了，所以不吃它。现在有些年轻人已经吃鱼了，但是老人依然不吃，在较偏僻的藏区，更是不允许吃鱼的。
问：藏族有天葬、水葬、火葬等送亡人的方式，如何判断给亡人应该采用哪种送行方式呢?
答：藏族人去世以后，会请喇嘛到家里念经，超度亡灵，喇嘛会为亡人挑选一种送行的方式，基本的依据是就地取材。比如在山区，会采用天葬；而临河湖，可能就会采用水葬。不会出现在高原上一定要采用水葬的荒谬现象。
问：藏族人跳锅庄时会对歌，是怎样分组的？
答：跳锅庄时，藏族人会男女分组，然后按照年龄不同细分。年轻未婚男女在一起对唱爱情歌，中年组在一起对唱劳动歌，而老年组的爷爷、奶奶们会在一起对唱幸福歌（组名是我自己起的，Anna和龙批被我这种叫法都笑翻了）。
藏族人生下来会让喇嘛给起名字，但是只有名，没有姓。汉名一般是在上学以后老师给起的，所以没有受过教育的藏民是没有汉名的；藏族人会供养喇嘛，家里有钱的话还会把孩子送去当喇嘛，龙批的弟弟当喇嘛已经10几年了，现在印度进修，他过世的舅舅也是喇嘛（龙批笑称藏族人对计划生育作了很大贡献）；在路上，我想把打包的馍馍送给徒步的喇嘛，被龙批制止了，他说喇嘛的地位是很高的，只能吃新鲜的、现做的食物，不能吃打包的东西。长知识不少，要是你有机会碰到龙批，你自己问他吧。
我和Anna强烈要求去龙批家做客，他一路上都在犹豫，又来实在拗不过，只好同意（后来我们知道，按照藏族的风俗，如果有客人来访，一定要准备奶茶、蒸馍馍好好招待，龙批怕家里没人招待不周，所以不好意思带我们去）。远远眺望中甸，整齐的田地、晒草的木架、方正的藏房、袅袅的炊烟，还有蓝天、白云、青山、绿水、寺庙、白塔。电影《追捕》中的那个把横路竟二弄傻的坏医生在楼顶上曾经对度邱说：“走吧，向前走，不要朝两边看，你会融化在这蓝天里……”。面对眼前中甸的美景，我真愿意融化在这美景中，成为画中人了。
龙批家就在松赞林寺旁边的村子，进村经过一阵强烈的颠簸之后，我们停在了他家大门口。刚踏入诺大的院子，一阵狂吠传来，是他家堆放柴草的小院里拴着一只藏獒，瞪着一双小眼睛、龇着白森森的牙齿玩命地朝我们的方向扑，把栓它的树拽得摇摇晃晃的。龙批的奶奶80多岁了，手里抱着一把大扫帚，正在院子里晒太阳，她听不懂汉语，微笑着看着我们。龙批说老奶奶年轻的时候曾经跟着马帮一起徒步去过拉萨，我们对她肃然起敬。屋门口迎面走出了龙批的父亲，曾经在政府当过干部，已经退休了。龙批的妻子是小学老师，带着女儿回娘家了，我们没见到。听说我们是北京来的游客，想要参观藏民家，龙批的父亲热情地把我们让进屋，领我们参观。这是一幢标准的两层木质藏族房屋，一层入口处有玻璃花房，在高原强烈阳光的照射下，花朵都开得异常巨大、绚丽。进了门，一层是厨房、客厅兼起居室，全家人在这里吃饭、待客，客厅非常宽阔，最少也有200多平米。柱子好粗啊，他家应该算是有钱人了；上了二层是卧室和一个念经堂，宽大的经堂比亚丁的冲古寺可大多了，里面供奉着佛像、摆放着法器、挂满了唐卡，金光闪闪，还有龙批舅舅圆寂前穿过的喇嘛服装。据说每个藏民家里都会有一间念经房。
回到一层的客厅，落座在火塘旁边，龙批冲奶茶，这是他第一次为客人冲茶，我们很荣幸。从火塘上方由房顶吊下的支架上取下奶酪（藏区的所有奶制品都是牦牛奶加工的，热量很大，我第一次喝了奶茶嘴上就起泡了），切下一块，放在竹筒里，加上茶叶、盐巴，将滚水倒进竹筒，用一个长长的怵用力搅拌，经纱布过滤以后，奶茶冲成了。新冲的奶茶好香，入口细滑，我们连喝了好几碗。火塘好温暖，有一只小猫在火塘边烤火，它太小了，走路摇摇摆摆的，还没断奶猫妈妈就死了。小猫咪咪叫着，好像饿了，龙批切下一小块奶酪，它闻到奶味就用舌头舔食着。我从座位上起身，上前一步想看看神龛上摆的照片是达赖还是班禅，龙批的父亲对我说：“你不该从这边走，这是不礼貌的”。我满心疑惑，他解释，藏族的习惯，应该按照顺时针方向走，而我刚才是逆时针方向起身上步的。在藏区一路上我都在观察，藏民家里供奉的都是班禅，不管是小班禅还是老班禅，就是没有供奉达赖的。龙批的大姐回家了，她也不懂汉语，笑着用藏语和我们打招呼，忙活着要蒸馍馍招待我们，我们还要赶时间，只得告辞，一家人一直把我们送出了大门口。
我们到龙批的朋友那里取到丽江的长途车票，他的朋友是开饭馆的，不在，只留下一个小妹看店，我们就在这里吃了午饭。车是4点钟的，龙批一直把我们送到车站入口，握手告别。
我们的车票是今天最晚的一班去丽江的车，不是高速快车，是个中巴，车里坐得满满的。我们上车比较早，就把行李放到车里，后来的人只能把行李堆到车顶上去，后来路上下雨了，他们的行李淋了一路。当转过一座座的山，看到远处丽江的灯光时，我感觉到家了，这时是晚上9点钟。下了车，雨还在下着，不大，可是很密。长途车站距离和中龙先生家很近，近得出租车都不拉我们，只好走过去。路过于涌的绿雪斋，门口立着指示牌“丽江民俗旧器私立博物馆，中小学生爱国主义教育基地”。和先生全家都在家，到了这里就是到了自己家了，不需要什么寒暄，我们放下东西，忙着出去吃晚饭。
这几天正是丽江人最多的时候，晚上的街道比白天还热闹。又来到熟悉的“剑南春”，鸡豆凉粉做得没有以前好吃了。
Rained constantly.去“小巴黎”餐厅旁边的T-Shrit店找声子夫妇，那个左手举着东巴文字书、右手挥舞着画笔正在T-Shrit上泼墨的不正是声子吗？他抬头看见我们，咧嘴笑了，回头叫他太太：“看谁来了？”声子太太满面春风地迎出来，身穿着自己画的黑色T-Shirt，比以前更加漂亮了。声子画完了，也过来和我们一起聊天，他比一年前胖了一点，还是那么幽默、健谈。倒上一杯甜奶茶，我们开始海阔天空。去年，声子和台湾胖子一起开车去西藏和新疆采风，积累了很多素材，回来以后有不少新创作，小店里就有很多藏神和藏文题材的T-Shrit；他还注册了自己的商标“声子”，在店里挂着Logo；声子有很多想法，他打算开一个网上商店，开拓更大的市场；他还想出一本连环画，作为献给他儿子的礼物，内容是描写一个背包族徒步旅行的故事。那不就是他自己的写照？他是一个热衷于徒步旅行的人，曾经徒步去过阿里、泸沽湖，这几天他正计划着灯10、1过了就要去梅里雪山转山。声子太太告诉我，如果我想好了，就给他们打个电话，他们可以等我一起去（我一直没打电话，他们在梅里转山的时候，我已经坐在办公室里看电脑了）。
这一年，丽江发生了好多事情。经过去年的整修，丽江古城里历经千年的石板路被拆除了，铺上了崭新的石板。据说施工的时候，有一些文物保护专家在古老的石板路上失声痛哭，请求不要破坏文物。全部丽江街道都换成了统一的宫廷复古灯，商店也都统一了形象，很整齐，却少了那一分随意河沧桑感；今年“非典”的时候，丽江没有游客，大街上空荡荡的，丽江河道断流施工，大白天的，好多人在河床里支上了桌子打麻将；小巴黎餐厅生意一直火爆，火得连一些政府官员都眼红了，要把房子收回去不出租给他们，小巴黎请了好多记者作宣传，店是保住了，可是也折腾出去100多万上下打点……声子店里一直人来人往，我们订了几件T-Shrit，明天取，然后就告辞出去继续闲逛。
“胡子”的店已经转给代理商经营了，他们夫妇现在常驻成都，负责工厂和代理商，我们最后的熟人---胡子的活计“小包子”过两天也要去成都了。胡子的玉器生意做得有声有色，大部分生意都交给代理商，只有很少的几家直营店（去年到北京参加博览会的时候，他还在“东方新天地”租了一个店面，叫“琢钰坊”，是他的注册商标）。没有老朋友可以聊天，顿觉无趣。
胡子店不远就是“四方街茶艺中心”，福建的茶父子还坐在店里，已经很晚了，我们打算明天再去品茶。
旅行小贴士
1、和中龙 地址：云南省丽江古城光义街光碧巷71号（丽江森龙大酒店旁白龙潭往古城方向100米）
电话：0888-5126720（宅） 5100949（办），手机：0888-6685798
2、声子的T-Shirt店，地址：酒吧街小巴黎餐厅旁边，挂一个“声子”的纸灯笼。手机：13038613398。
3、“四方街茶艺中心”，地址：丽江古城东大街玉龙茶艺674100，电话：0888-5187985 13708829500， 联系人：施丽昆。
费用（2人）
飞来寺早餐17
中甸中餐23
丽江晚餐43
包车稻城-中甸-梅里-中甸1800
长途车中甸至丽江60
当天合计1943
累计花费8481.7
2003年10月4日 丽江
当我和Anna10点钟才从床上起来的时候，和太太已经晾了满院子的衣服了。我最爱吃的早餐是和太太做的丽江粑粑，不好意思说出口，心里却一直惦记着。梦想成真，现烙的丽江粑粑+醪糟蛋，真香啊，我们吃得好失态，不但心里偷着乐了，我们甚至连话都顾不上说了。
今天要去品茶，还是去熟悉的四方街茶艺中心。我本次的选择是普洱茶、高原香茗和极品香珠，香珠送人，普洱和香茗自用。
我喜欢那种感觉---在慵懒的阳光中，穿着睡衣，躺在一张舒服的躺椅上，听着动听的音乐，读一本喜欢的书或者写点文字，品一壶色香味俱佳的香茗，任时光悄悄溜走。
于涌的绿雪斋茶室生意很清淡，但是“丽江民俗旧器私立博物馆”却是人气很旺，这里作为爱国主义教育基地以后，丽江地区的中小学生经常到这里进行爱国教育，了解丽江的历史和风俗。于涌这几天去昆明了，他的太太和一大群伙计在家。
一整天都在下雨，丽江的游客依然是摩肩接踵。来丽江的老外都是寻清静的，他们都避开这几天人流高峰期，所以这几天在丽江基本见不到老外，偶尔见到的也是些俄罗斯人。
这是我第四次来丽江了，每次来的感觉都有些不同。前年春节第一次来的时候我是个匆匆过客，四方街上的集市摆满了各种小商品，丽江周边地区的人都到这里来赶集置办年货。穿着民族服装的纳西人在晚上点起篝火，跳起集体舞，到处是鞭炮和烟花；去年五一，认识了丽江那西人和先生，也结识了丽江的外地生意人声子、大胡子、于涌；去年十一，不再只是过客，而更象拜访老朋友了；这次再来丽江，和先生的大儿子大学已经快毕业了，小儿子也上高中了，声子的店生意很红火，而胡子已经离开丽江了。丽江也在一点一点的变化，以前是个不更事的少女，简简单单，美得却是那么自然天然。现在，丽江已经成熟了，加以修饰，用自己的一颦一笑吸引着更多的赞赏。对于游客来讲，这自然是件好事，无论到哪里都能找到装修别致的商店、饭馆和咖啡馆，难怪有的老外说他们理想中的中国就应该是丽江这样。
只要玉龙雪山淌下的雪水还从丽江流过，只要纳西民族还保持着他们的勤劳、友善，那么丽江就还是丽江。丽江没有变，是我们变了。
为了避雨，我和Anna在一家卖藏饰的店里留连了好久，高挑的女老板身上戴满了藏族装饰品很好看，我们也备受鼓舞，一人买了一条粗粗的藏族项链戴了起来（回到北京到“海盗船”去看，做工一般的藏银饰品的价格都比我们买的贵好多，心里很舒服）。
去声子店里取了T-Shrit，又和他们夫妇俩聊到晚上12点。
旅行小贴士
丽江十一前后是雨季，天气比较冷，注意带购衣服。
费用（2人）
小吃10
丽江晚餐40
房费200
当天合计250
累计花费8731.7
2003年10月5日 丽江-北京
今天丽江天晴了，北京的天气也不错。
两女子走江湖的故事未完待续。
旅行小贴士
项目数量共享否？
Drugs
黄莲素1 共享感冒药1 共享阿斯匹林1 共享风油精1 共享
Commodity
消毒湿纸巾2 分别内衣/裤10+5 分别棉袜3+1 分别夹长裤2 分别单长裤2 分别衬裤2 分别睡衣1 分别羽绒服1 分别
T-shirt 2+1 分别夹克1 分别衬衫1 分别帽子1 分别墨镜1 分别拖鞋1 分别登山鞋1 分别大方巾1 分别毛巾1 分别牙线1 共享牙膏1 共享洗面奶1 共享面霜1 共享面膜1 共享洗发水1 共享护发素1 共享凡士林1 共享口罩3+3 共享肥皂1 共享卫生纸1 共享有漱口功能的口香糖20 共享小刀1 共享茶叶1 共享针线1 共享透明垃圾袋20 共享护唇膏1 分别牙刷1 共享梳子1 共享镜子1 共享勺子1 分别水壶1 分别笔/纸1 共享雨衣1 分别背包1 分别其它
休闲背包1 分别背包防雨罩1 分别相机+电池1 分别胶卷1 分别手表1 分别手机1 分别手机充电器1 共享头灯1 共享
5号电池3 共享巧克力1 共享
(备注：标明"共享"，只需要带一份；标明"分别"，需要各带给的。)
费用（2人）
丽江早/中餐48
Taxi丽江古镇至机场80
机场建设费100
丽江-昆明机票两张880
昆明-北京机票两张2240
当天合计3348
累计花费12079.7
每人花费6039.85
(备注：这是基本费用支出，未计算个人购买项链等纪念品的费用。)
小彭完成于2004年2月5日(正月15)
在本网站,还可以查阅本人其他作品《我的香格里拉之旅》和《放飞云南,我的天空-丽江、腾冲游》
Author: 00,597,531
