Lugu Lake is located in Yunnan and Sichuan, connecting the mountains, is inlaid in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau on the edge of a magnificent sapphire unparalleled. Mosuo around the lake there are many people in small villages thousands of years ago here is where they thrive, and has the unique customs and cultural heritage. With a passion for natural beauty yearning and ethnic customs curiosity, in 2004 Lunar New Year's Day and I met in Lijiang friends came together with the beautiful Lugu Lake, the country came to Moso culture.
Before the Internet to collect a lot of relevant information, netizens are generally located in the village fell into the water before, environmental protection, the opposite of "grid is Dole," Evaluation of high, where the cheap comfort, always have hot water for bathing, but also because the main character is Dorje enthusiasm hospitable and knowledgeable tourists who were affectionately known as "Moso Doctor." After more than six hours over the mountains to ride the bumps, we finally see the lake like that and a blue sky. Directly on the lake side of the road in front of the grid is off Seoul, gently pushing black pitched "Georgia is er" That two red wooden plaque below, you see a large open-air courtyard of the house is located in the middle of the courtyard the front and rear are two two-and three-tier yellow-brown wing, the right is the seat is only one layer of the red house. 3 houses are wooden structures, all of the columns, beams and railings are also red, though not gorgeous Diaolan painting buildings, but the bars and beam, or draw a dragon and phoenix, and water waves exquisite decorative patterns, so special is the Long have my store phoenix at the bottom. Mountain breeze blowing gently, supporting the beams of each post, one by one on that bright red lanterns began to sway gently up, roof corner of the wind chimes that are crisp, ringing ears leisurely reverberate. At this moment, if sitting in the garden next to the stone table on a stone bench, with Sanwuzhiji long talk, which is how unaffected and ah!
At this time, a tall, color red, black, eyes his eyes from the red house Mosuo guy walked out to greet us, he is the main character is Dorje. Dorje led us into the Red House, cordial greeting we Wai leaning Huo Tangbian tea break. See that we are very curious to observe the house's internal furnishings, Doje to introduce them to our 11. The original is that we live in Mosuo people living in the family grandmother grandmother room, but also people's daily needs at home and receiving relatives and friends, sharing their grandchildren place. Before and after the wing was supposed to be junior at home where they live, only because they are temporarily Doje no children, so the external front rooms have been rented a room on the back rooms. As we enter the room to place luggage when it found that the original double room is actually in the antique, exquisite workmanship toast beds, and each bed is equipped with electric blanket.
Mosuo grandmother room, fireplace is the most sacred place, they believe the fire to help them and communicate with spirits and dead ancestors, so the back of the Altar fireplace is a place to worship gods and ancestors. Doje home Altar there is a shrine for a long time, has been smoked pig's head was black, there are two large conch and other tributes. In addition, the Mosuo people to eat meals before going to folders first enshrined at the Altar mouth dish, pour the first glass of wine at the fireplace, and then began to eat, to show respect for the gods and ancestors. As the house is a wooden structure, and easily lead to fires, in addition to usual care must be careful fireplace, Mosuo people will pray to the gods and the power to protect the house. Mentioned in the beams and railings painted dragon and phoenix patterns and water is the water on behalf of God, used to remind the Vulcan Do not get angry, while the wind chimes sound was to remind the family to be more careful when the wind caught fire. The most left the face of fireplace is the grandmother bed, big headed (usually at home grandmother) beds. Between the bed and fireplace grandmother's home women's seats, fireplace on the other side is the men's seats, big headed and old uncle's seat next to the fireplace on both sides, as the two are the most warm the seat, while the other members of the generation in accordance with in turn were spread out, showing that Mosuo people are very respected elder.
The most right is the face of life and death fireplace door, the door of the small room where the baby was born, and the death of family members grabbing room, because believe in Tibetan Buddhism Mosuo people think of life and death is a kind of reincarnation, should come to the same place. However, with the improvement of medical conditions, today's children are basically born in the hospital, but the family still hold to the newborn will stay in this room look to express the inheritance of traditional beliefs.
Support grandmother owner beams from the two pillars is a wood with roots Ministry of female columns, trees are male and the Department of columns, said the family is the Moso people jointly supported by women and men together. Home in the 13-year-old girls and boys into the Lai-Lei Ting's lunar new year after that, we should wear adult clothes, separated in the female and male column next to the column. After the ceremony, they are the adults at home, we will begin to assume family responsibilities.
Being the door through the wall, put a table there is a skin Chenganhongse of Zhu Biaorou is Moso specialty. Practice is to pigs pig's head, viscera, bones and meat are removed, fill in the refined salt and pepper and other spices, and suture line of incision as is used after curing. Lugu Lake altitude of 2,700 meters, the air fresh and the environment dry and summer temperatures is not high. Therefore, Zhu Biaorou can generally be cured at least three years before consumption, and more than a decade Zhu Biaorou not only can be eaten raw, but can do drugs for the treatment of skin diseases, is entertaining friends and family treasures. I was fortunate to be able to enjoy himself Doje's relatives more than a decade of health Zhu Biaorou, importers feel that fat but not greasy, smooth and delicious. The hanging in the room ceiling beams of the bacon and sausage are also very delicious, it is let me satisfy their appetites.
Grandmother room door there were two different worlds, all the high threshold, low doorway, and the double doors rather than being staggered. Because people believe that ghosts are not Mosuo turning and bending, so that the design will be able to ghost blocking the door outside. Only when the movement of people must bow bending leg lift, at the beginning of some really are not accustomed to. Dorji said jokingly that even a high official came to their home, but also in order to come to bow their heads bowed to show respect for their family.
Dorji also gradually introduce our understanding of the grid while Dole's other family members. His wife, Bin Mala fault was a smart beautiful, who teaches at the southern coastal city of a focus on secondary schools, outstanding teachers, his brother a big old horse is here to cook, of course, widely known in the online Wal-Mart's "Public Security Bureau," Siso, a bulk of the brain, very large Tibetan spiritual dog.
Since then, every day I have to walk at the lake, facing the other side of the beautiful goddess Gorm mountain, overlooking the small group were carrying tourists Mosuo boating on Lake Zhucao Chuan, Tianshui same color of blue taste and enjoy the bonfire party on the merry dance and the deep feeling of the song and. It will certainly be a night with Dorje and other tourists drink tea and chat late into the night around the fireplace, listening to lively and interesting introduction to Lugu Lake Doje the anecdotes and the Moso people's cultural practices, and always makes us feel that enough, unable to stop. The two cheerful lively Kaoquan Yang party, so that our brothers and nephews, and Dorje are made with wine Huan, burst out and sing, and enjoy these health amendments to with joy.
Later we have a better understanding Road, where the lattice is the original Doje family is the largest clan in the village fell into the water, Doje grandmother's sister (who referred to his grandmother's) is the last toast of the Princess Mosuo people, Lobsang Buddha is the son of Princess Mosuo people first a native of living Buddhas. Given its illustrious family background, Doje one pairs of Mosul and the Tibetan culture has a deep understanding of, but their families suffered during the Cultural Revolution and therefore the impact of historical and cultural value, many more have been damaged or lost family heirloom. As in recent years, Lugu Lake and the Mosuo people increasingly recognized as the world, all kinds of Mosuo traditional culture, especially the "walking marriage" custom distortion of false propaganda has seriously affected the image of Mosuo people or even a normal life. But the most painful to Mosuo people is that they are actually from the early years after liberation for some reason, were classified as either language or the customs of the Naxi are very different, but excluded from the big family of China's 56 ethnic groups outside. In this regard, Doje frankly told us that they designed and built when the grid is Seoul, a lot of careful listening to the elders of the views in order to be able to reflect the true integrity of the traditional Moso cultures. This is not only to make friends who have come to personally experience the real life Mosuo people, but also in order to leave some evidence for the later to re-examine and in-depth study of Moso's traditional culture. Dorje's face looked solemn face, I could not help bowing meditation. How many people are now in order to one-sided pursuit of economic interests, ignores our traditional culture, the gradual demise, these bits a strong persistent Mosuo people have been foreseen personally to defend this nation's cultural essence, how can they not let me awe it to them?
10 days relaxing in life is so quietly passed, and the beauty of the lake I will want to return a cell while the warm Fall and Doje made me unforgettable. If not, all while living in Seoul, if you do not know Doje 1, then I may just be a rush of passing the lake, although it will revel in the beauty of the lake, but may be related to the real missed Mosuo style. Finally left, on the grid is Dole's message left on a string of this heartfelt blessing.
Lugu Lake is willing to Changqing, Gehm Hill Castle Peak long green, Moso people's cultural Passing the torch, and our friendship has become a new regular!
This beautiful place, I will definitely come back.
Lattice attached to the link Seoul Tel: (0888) 6677868, 13,988,821,123
Author: fenghx
