In 2004 the lake if the lake in 2003, I just have a hope in their hearts, then in 2004 the first day, I have a real touch to this beautiful place.
Hey Diddle Diddle from Chengdu to sit for 12 hours by train, in a Star, I came to Xichang. The city I have been here many times, but only this time with his own mood, so, I suddenly discovered that the city's night sky, there are too many stars in the shining me. Find a long-distance station, bought a ticket directly to the lake, drink a bowl of hot milk and found an empty stool, bind tightly clothes, relying on big packs, so I went to sleep. Drowsily probably had more than an hour, the ear has some sound when the day was somewhat light, and hastened to get up on a cold wash of a face, look for, you see the retro "Xichang -- Lugu Lake, "the cart, and quickly ran up, found a seat, shut our eyes, and then went looking for my Duke of Zhou.
A walk, and eventually, I started a real journey of the lake. Greeting the beginning of the warm-yang, carts with me, far from the mountains to the west of the starting cities. In 4 hours later, we came to the Yanyuan county. Drivers should be finishing what we are here. This is one located inside a small town in the mountains, standing on the street, you can see the mountains surrounding the city are the white snow, in the warm sun, shining brightly light. There are many Yi, or holding cattle and sheep, or carrying a basket carried on, and some on both sides of the street on the squat. Have them the stalls of the traders, but the impression that they are not selling anything, more interest is basking in the sun, and then smoke trees smoke, and chatting next to some of our not understand the words. I walk through the streets, they all come with a vision I can not tell looking at me, Oh, yes aliens come.
Cars move ahead, and the driver says that he has opened Mosuo 3-4 hours, and the road will be more difficult to go, I am a little dizzy. Days, Lugu Lake, where you are in the end. Pondered, the car began in the valleys, detours, and and am really different from the morning of our car has always been in the sun, and now, in addition to both sides of the gorge wall, that is, the edge of the flow of the car. From time to time to see the edge of the road there is a lot of rocks, the driver said to just clean out on the road. Seem to have some insurance, I thought.
Around呀around Yeah, in the end to pay 41 yuan ticket fee, I finally stood in the central town of the lake. Carrying my big bag, only a few minutes, I discovered that besides the driver and I, who have been scattered colleagues did not know where to go, and I do where the lake. Quickly asked the driver, he was moving in a direction of a means, "there is 4 km, you can do three motorcycle down." I looked at time to think about, which is 4 km, take a look at more than okay, so thank the driver, tightly pack belt, I said in my shadow behind the advance towards the final destination.
10 A few minutes later, I walked in a large field, except for shadows, the wind and I are moving heaven and earth things are quiet surrounding. Winter fields, exudes the taste of the sun and earth from time to time there are the peasants after burning smoke, his ears heard rustling sound of the road, I have quite down, would like to hear there is no other voice, the result is everything No, a good calm ah. Walked, I started off my Jackets, walked on, I started off my fleece vest, in the end, I left in a long-sleeved thermal underwear and a. Passed a bridge, I saw the front of a forest, vaguely in a house, my heart began to jump about, is not approaching do. I walked a bit fast, go into the woods in my eyes is the One after another, two-tier Mulou. In some Mulou the door, sat some old lady, wearing a similar ring of black hat, wearing a black T-shirt, with blue or other colors of the skirt. Some chat, some of what is in the Feng Zhe, as well as in the sun, perhaps it was my appearance disrupts their atmosphere, suddenly they all looked at me quiet, I feel a bit embarrassed. Found a surface charitable purpose for the elderly, to ask road and in front of the case, but she only said that only she understood the language, I giggly smile, behind and next is also a laugh, I'm do not know how to do the time , there's the old lady with the strange Mandarin to save me. One asked, did I learn that turned this piece is my lake of the woods. Really, out of the woods, I do not have a good color to adapt to changes in time, eyes already had a large blue, blue eyes, you do not know where to go to the hide. This piece of blue water on such a quiet, lying here, in the blue sky and the afternoon sun, shining golden Blu-ray. After the wind, the lake level by level to push the stack up, like brocade jitter, you can feel the warmth and smooth, in your heart leapt up with non-stop. In the lake there are so few boats, ah, has not said to ship it, it is more like a toy, in the promise a large lake, then a large blue, the is a kind of background, so you can see to understand this world, apart from the blue, there is another kind of color. Much of the look, your heart will be a kind of impressed by the beauty of this world were moved, this time for the beautiful and moving, for us, is not too quite below our expectations. The lake is surrounded by mountains 1, mountain top There are a lot of snow, I was surprised, mountain, or so the colors of the verdant, and thus, there is blue sky, white snow, Castle Peak, and blue waters, these colors make up in my eyes The Lugu Lake, my first sight of the lake. In these mountains, the surrounding snow, the blue lake like a gentle child, stay quiet did not know how long, how long.
Wind up, blow me from the quiet in the wake. Along Hu Di, I move on, I saw in front of several houses scattered around the lake in 3322, there should be a place where I live it, I think. Soon, I found my accommodation, "Eminem Park, daughter of country", a name very much tie in with this environment bar. Also two small Mulou, the entire yard, other than the one guest is left an administrator, there is still a ferocious ferocious dog. Simply pick up a bit, I can not wait to hold my camera, rushed to the lake I would like to look at me a little closer to the lake. Lake sand thin, but it is very hard, there is nothing like mud, and stood on top of a really great feeling. The lake is very clear, through the lake to see the lake under the sand, wanted to be praised as a clear heart in their hands. Turned a small Bay, to see the lake stay in a lot of boats, under the influence of the wind, gently swinging, like a child slowly whispers in her mother's arms, restless request something. Sunset, the Hudi around the house, most of them have a wave Yi Gu's smoke, I do not know how to describe my feelings during that time, like a kind of feel at home. Back away, there are tens of meters away from the yard, I saw the administrator inserted to start with a smile waiting for me, "to eat, and eat," Yes, it's more like a father and mother calling her children go home for dinner ah, in this place, you will not like me, feel it. This evening, we have two people on the simple food, drinking here, "Su miles Sky", chatting to this yard, chatting the lake, there are people here, if you stand in the sky, will be able to see this the yard there is a light bright late, there is a boy, innocently, eyes filled with longing for here.
Drinking wine, good-bye to an administrator, I am out of the room, "Oh wow," you know what I saw, there are fireflies in the air Fly Fly like a little fairy Tizhedenglong flying in the sky. Is far from the sky in stars, really bright, then, a meteor from the air, glide, I feel there is too much of joy, a long-hoped-for joy. I think of it, this is the first day of 2004, the first evening, I am here, I spent the first day of 2004. Night, I was sound asleep at the lake shore, and do not know a dream, as if there is who is singing, singing songs I do not understand, no matter I just want to sleep.
Early in the morning I jumped out from a sleeping bag, today I want and I do a close contact with the lake, I do not up late. Administrators promised me last night and this morning took me to the charter tour Lake, the two of us had finished breakfast, we set out. When we went to after a small village for a while he sent for the two boatmen, we, speaking in Mandarin, and occasionally also the administrator of the Mandarin translation of what, Kan starting. 100, we did it. Bid farewell to the administrator, I am as they walked to the lake, the lake remains the ships small boats, and some have been filled with water, like a history of saying, "I have been here a long time." My boat is very narrow, a person sitting just two people a little anxious boatman said that is Zhucao Chuan, the original people in this Zhucao Chuan is made of a tree hollowed out, and now trees are smaller, starting a 3,4-tree can be made on, it will not change the environment for the transfer site, and distant mountains is the case, we have around it.
Lake surrounded me and three of us slowly to the opposite of the Luo River Village is zoned to go, where is the boundary of Yunnan, where the boatman said that tourism development of the breakfast, it is a little something to see, and then eat lunch, and then to the lake of look at the two islands. We walk through the ship in the lake from time to time be able to see groups of ducks from the shore, then launched into fall, there are seagulls, ship lap around our lap around, boatman said that if I have bread, then seagull will fly on board to eat. Early morning lake, in the morning sun shining, the emitted waves of mist, especially in the areas near the shore, more obvious, you see the lake island, with this in mist, as well as the birds fly off from time to time down, as in Wonderland, we are tour here immortal. The lake about 7 km in diameter, from head to Wang Dan's light, probably want to draw more than 1 hours, boatmen paddling effort, I used this for an hour like my own, and now also remember to think a bit什么. By Luohe really is to develop a bit earlier, a tourist attraction that some of it has, hotels, bars, restaurants, shops, as well as Xitou Fang. Bought some hand-knitted scarf called, ate, and the single sister chat and see the lake and mountains, we have set sail by. The grid service than the first island, also known as Bird Island, the island has a small temple blocks, hometown so color, and the temple is surrounded by a circle by turning the barrel, inside the mural is worth observing. The top of the island there is a tomb of Yunnan toast, white tower in the sky to see a good match. Seen in the top of the trees from the island of the blue lake water also co-authored the sun through the massive Sierra Leone, there is another view. The opposite is the Snake Island in the Bird Island, also known as toast Island, the island home of Yunnan toast, but also nothing too special, only to see the lakes and mountains, you will lament the toast will really enjoy呀.
About 3 o'clock, we started back, and I want to be good in the afternoon to see Caohai and The Last Princess, and this is strongly recommended by the administrator, the lake water in Caohai have another view, as Princess, not the What everyone can see, let alone the last of it. To the shore, sit appointment of CHARADE (in the city, the car must be scrapped to be mandatory, in addition to speakers do not sound anything ring. Opened about 30 minutes, we first came to the Caohai. Caohai there is no door, only a broken wooden bridge, which connects the sea here and there. that wooden bridge, a bit like the Luding Bridge, each has a span of 30 cm distance, through the bridge board, you can see the blue blue lake. and I accompanied a group of school children, they are like a butterfly, like light in the span of the shuttle, not when they look back at my incessant patting a fool holding the camera where they are already familiar with, while the I wonder side of the lake's beauty, but also careful not to fall to one side, He He. so I went to the lake side. lakeside there is a small village, probably into the evening, when people are in twos and threes out of the squat, there are a few boats in the non-stop delivery of the lake grass, as well as colt tied in the trees and kept the name of the ring. I climbed to the shore of a small hill, in respect of such large tracts of Caohai appeared in front of me . vast expanses of blue water, was separated from large tracts of grass, again surrounded by large tracts of grass, and thus, water and grass wrapped around the intersection gatherings together, surrounded by the mountains, like a pair of lovers quiet love the unknown number of years. there are so few dilapidated Zhu Caochuan to stay in the central lake, at sunset, you can see the hull along with water emit light blue light. heaven do not know when the moon appeared, like looked like a child, I was sitting on the hill, sitting on the quiet, and the moon, the sun together, watching this piece of blue water and golden grass lake, there is a quiet small village. to the last home of Princess , it is already 5:00 o'clock, the driver said I was a little better alcohol and tobacco, Xiao-law (princess of the Han name) will be pleased, the palace is a small courtyard, like the other Mosuo people are a small two-story Mulou, Here are debris or rearing shed, upstairs were occupied. I and Princess in the dim little room downstairs, a simple chat, it seems her mother is already very accustomed to such visits, and out of the time, but also put my finishing appearance, in conversation, a lot of problems are very skillful answer, it may predecessors have been asked many times sake bar. heard her talk about things of the past is still a bit mean, but not quite the same and I thought, I learned from Her body did not see the shadow of the princess, and more are suffering from a weathered old, and this is real life brought to her bar.
At night, I decided to feel the Moso people's real life. Found a people, carrying my big bag, to the 15 money, I went on the move. Moso regardless of the traditional family home, so many of their population, most of four generations living under one roof, and some even five generations of the same generation, there is a 10 a few mouthfuls of a few 20 people are normal. In a home, his grandmother is the greatest leader in the family without a father, only the uncle and mother, their children and his mother have been, from uncle to take care of, but also many children do not even know their father is. Women at home have the supreme right to get up early, by grandmother or mother to arrange a day's labor, the men went out Ganhuo, and women pick up on at home at night to come back, the men sat around Huotang Bian, drinking "Su mile Ma" or "咣when the wine", smoking, chatting, waiting for meals, eating, and began walking to their love of people went to the marriage (of course there is the premise of his own wife). In the Mosuo a person's life, the boys usually have 7-10 months lover, a girl about 5-8 of their own love, for them, if two people can not love a girl can not open the door to allow male the door like a child, so they do not have any marriage or divorce issues. It is said that after the Lugu Lake Town police station from there, it did not happen any case, at most, drink the wine out of small points, the police really happy. In the Mosuo home, typically a small two-story Mulou, there is a big house, in the big house with a lap wood kang or heatable adobe sleeping platform, there are two fireplace, fireplace and down into the fireplace, the fireplace is the girls and junior, and Under the fireplace is the men and elders, and the next on the fireplace, a fire burning all year round, from the house built, we can not go out, it symbolizes the family life of fire (I finally understand why Zhu Caochuan must now 3 -- 4 wood in order to build a good day, how much wood to burn down Yeah, but more and more people, He He). In this house is not only a reception room, dining, bedroom, or kitchen, and only Chuge girls will have its own greenhouse for will be lover. Just that I am a bit can not stand their eating habits, their sausages, if not psychologically prepared, you could not eat with me, bite, all the fuel, but also a kind of indescribable flavor, with the pot on a fireplace out of bone soup, float a layer of foam, did not know what. That night, placed in front of me there are 4,5 a dish, I remember, I took just a pile of vegetables and kimchi, the other is to taste the ending. Played pot of water, return to their room, roll out sleeping bags, covered with their blankets, one of the nights come and Moso. Forgot to mention one, to use the restroom before going to sleep, or the evening together, you do not know to go to that, the Moso people have no toilets, and casually looking for a place, in situ solution Oh, you used to. There are stars and the moon at the time, I am carrying my big bag, set foot on the way home. I can also see the lake place, and I look back and see the stars, I told myself I will come back.
Itinerary:
December 31: 18:20 pm train from Chengdu to Xichang, berth 114 yuan;
January 1: 6:00 am Xichang railway station, to spend 10 yuan taxi fare to the bus stop in Xichang, 8:40 to Lugu Lake, the town bought the ticket, 63 yuan, at the station exit, drinking bowls of milk, with a fried fritters, 1.5 million to buy a bottle of water on the road use, 2 yuan. 12:00 noon lunch in the Yanyuan County, 5 million to buy eight motion sickness pills, 8 yuan, 4 oranges, 3 yuan. Lugu Lake to reach the town of 15:20 pm, tickets are 41 yuan. Walk 4-5 km to reach the lake, the more the better view of the lake, to find people or guest houses can be Mosuo, 15 yuan a person for lodging, meals, 10-15 yuan. Can be seen at night bonfire party, and if not, you can spend money to hire people in the village arrangement, about 20 individuals bonfire party is 280, very cheap.
January 2: 9:00 am to find the village to arrange for rowing, I am a man charter 100, if the people (4-5), 25-30 per capita per month. The lake has six islands, including Bird Island and Snake Island some spectacle, the other nothing, if the lack of time, can be omitted. Luohe across the lake to eat lunch, how is Yunnan呀. Lunch, 40. Scarves and other things, 200. 15:00 Back to Sichuan, 30 yuan to see a Caohai chartered the way back to visit the last princess to buy alcohol 20 yuan to buy her book-signing, 18-dollar books, and she sold me the signature of 20,2 million fee. Mosuo people live in the evening, many people sign hanging from the door, is the designated county government to provide accommodation, 15 yuan / person cost of accommodation, meals 10-15 yuan / person.
January 3: In the morning 7 am taking the road of 4-5 km back to town, catch the 8:00 shuttle to the Xichang. Directly to a day trip, can not keep up, it is necessary to Yanyuan transfer, and to Yanyuan car 10:00 and 12:00 on the twice-a day. I forgot to remember the phone owners, or you can call him wait for you for a while, if you play late. Fare, 62 yuan. 12:00 noon to Yanyuan, 5 yuan lunch Gaoding. 16:40 pm to Xichang, you can at the train station, the South Railway Station can also be under the Xichang to Chengdu 18:40 at night to buy a train sleeper, 114 yuan. Around the station to eat dinner, 15 yuan.
January 4: 7:00 am to Chengdu. Completion of travel.
Total cost: 911 yuan, if more people did not buy anything, then the per capita of 500 yuan will be able to.
Author: fzxdsw