Erhai Lake in the moonlight
"Sunshine is always so bright the sky is so blue,
Forever green and blue Erhai Cangshan little white sail scattered wind slowly beating hearts that we sing a happy dance simple. . . "
"Warm" - Xu Wei
Return to Shanghai's home, in a winter morning, when you listen to the song from the minds of Yang Qi is the same warm thoughts flew to that magic and beauty of Caiyunzhinan.
The road from Kunming to Lijiang, Dali, had already through the night. Unexpected power outage, and around a dark and quiet. I casually turned around from a long distance out of the window after the car could not help but look scared to live it, it was actually a gesture of beauty but also a masterpiece of God: Zoran to a Jiaoliang moon hung in the night, Erhai Lake in the heated sparkling silver color glitters really makes you feel heart must melt in the darkness and the silence of moonlight.
Locke: Lijiang modern Chinese people have a too much respect for foreigners. This can not be simply interpreted as a Chinese life of generosity, the repression of their own people without mercy; can not just say that because the other economic advantages, self-sufficient society does not need much and the outside world. Darcy's explanation of modern Mosuo people is that: to see those blue eyes and hairy body of heterogeneous, but even in that ferocious Yi is also a bit of their kind. In any case, said foreigners and the Chinese do not regard each other as similar between the two sides rarely smooth exchange of real equality. I very want to go to Lijiang to see Locke's former residence, are interested in this American Austrians how the last century in a remote mountain village and unfamiliar culture of the Naxi people live for several decades.
To Lijiang, and STEVEN next morning I was starting from the ancient city of Lijiang, riding a rented mountain bike, along the legendary Tea-Horse Road towards the direction of the Yulong Snow Mountain YADING. White clouds, blue sky, peaks, green hills and cypress, hwangcho, the beauty of nature as a layer on the upper berth from the days down, fun to watch.
Locke's house at the foot of a mountain called Yuhu the Naxi villages here in 1922, he borrowed a small party northwest Yunnan Plant Research Institute. Locke's not ask for much, as long as the locals allowed him to pursue their love of research on the satisfied. Later, he gradually became interested in the local folk customs, proceed to understand the Dongba culture of Naxi Ren, and give the United States National Geographic magazine, the article describes the customs here, and gradually became a sociologist.
Locke has brought to this Naxi village some novel gadgets, such as cameras and a variety of tools, he also invited the locals to help with the production of specimens. Locke knows he is an outsider, he had no intention to change anything, nor economic interests, requirements, and local toast and civilians alike, to live in peace, but also cultivated a profound friendship. Locke lived in the room furnished very simple, similar to the wall hung a Thangka painting. Can see that Locke is the love for this piece of land, so he can adapt to different places for several decades of hard and lonely life. This love may be able to Locke portrayed as a "traveled to China" and "internationalist fighter," but the timing Unfortunately, he was only a little-known international friends, and even a few to several years of foreigners living in Lijiang are do not know.
Lijiang in Locke's era and there is no change until the earthquake in the early nineties let this side corner of the Naxi ancient city is located in the beginning cause for concern. Then a large number of grants and donations to save the endangered houses, while the avalanche of visitors to genuinely change the face of Lijiang, it quickly developed into a tourist city. Many Aborigines moved to New Town to the Naxi, and the ancient city filled with a variety of purposes from all over the country come Huaizhe who either liked the small bridges, some fancy business opportunities here. They will be converted into residential inns, restaurants, bars or shops selling tourist souvenirs, accounting for as much as a fraction dove magpie nests taste. So people also complain of Lijiang is increasingly becoming a true sense of the city, many places have become tourist shopping street, as if in-situ redevelopment of the Folk Culture Village.
I asked the inn owner from Shanghai (they call themselves the new Lijiang people) how to evaluate them in this ancient city to change the role and functions, they said: We have more love than the locals here, locals are willing to move outside the toilet The new house, we like to stay behind, and transform it.
If they are representative transformation is also based on "love" in the name. Locke is such a love and a different, Lijiang their hands gradually changed. Now they feel should not go out during the day in Lijiang, because too noisy.
We have other choices? Economic development itself is the last word, if any of the ancient city of dead and changed the development of taste there is no better way than, let visitors in the gray tiles green water is hard to tell between genuine and fake travel, spend at the water's edge in one of the book bar a leisurely afternoon, perhaps the city can give the greatest value of modern man.
Regards to the economic center of the modern society, you can expect people to love the same way as Locke in this cities?
Darcy's initial products: modern Mosuo from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, we did not think of driving was actually been to the University of Mosuo people.
Darcy finished product was the beginning of the Mosuo people, growing up in the lake side of the Yongning town, parents are married. Computerization in Kunming, he read it back to the financial accounts for the majority of Ninglang Xian Yi became deputy head of the Secretary of the Mosuo people feel no counterparts in the professional career they did not take heart, they simply took a King ran off into the effect of the Lijiang Lugu Lake travel transportation. Darcy forthright temperament, so that we understand that many locals living conditions.
Mosuo people take marriage a lot of colorful customs, Assia both men and women there was no formal marriage, each living in their own matrilineal family, only the night before to a woman at reunion. Raising a child from the woman's family, the father of the concept of weak. However, the establishment of the relationship between Assia is also a general feeling of long-term basis to tourists mostly outside the Moxi's. Those who take the marriage to save drop-tourists are mostly publicity gimmick, more people from outside the name of the false guise of pretending to follow marriage Mosuo to provide sexual services.
Left their places of origin Mosuo more people from outside of the influence the choice of a marriage means that this is only the traditional customs and modern ideas of conflict in microcosm. Ninglang county over half a million people there are four or five hundred a year in college, going out to accept the new ideas they would rather not the shackles of the old customs, and traditions of the conflict is inevitable. There were incidents last year, because of the woman out of a guy to cancel his childhood, after the engagement and retaliatory bombings woman family tragedy. Of course, man's behavior is to be faulted, but in a traditional closed society, not only the dissolution of a marriage involving two of the emotional problems, but also be understood as one of the great destruction of social relations, the woman appears to have been given careful consideration of the Department .
I asked Darcy if he come across this problem that how to deal with a direct answer but he did not say that it provides Wawa Qin clan itself wrong. Darcy went out of disdain around the girl, he wanted to find a water southern Yunnan Dai, in order to miss school that had let him echocardiography girls.
With the development of tourism in Moso and growing contacts between the outside world, the original paradise of calm was broken lives could have been happy when on holidays to sing and dance is now the village every night to greet visitors a required course. The original material and poor villagers living relative equality, is now open earlier during the Golden Week tourism village each household the day boating dancing rooms and other income must take few thousand dollars more in net worth tens of millions of well-off super-became poverty-stricken county Fuyu Cun. They began to hire other villagers engaged in travel services, among the different villages to attract tourists because there have been fights among rich households in the village began to physical competition, more adults than the standard rooms, young people than the phone's style.
When the jump Guozhuang become a profession, Mosuo no longer for themselves and happy, people engage in economic development is not clear to them more or less well-being.
Village life, prosperity and the backwardness of the outside world for the formation of a strong contrast. Locals tour operators do not have to pay tax, the county did not receive much benefit. Because the road is the county treasury, so the tourists have to endure the potholes of the mountain lake.
The face of the surge in visitors in the village public services and failed to timely fashion, still exercises the old original management, a lack of unified planning for tourism development to avoid the pollution of the lake, in a Taiwanese residents in the village said that after the village headman, Gao Ding just cut them down to his new house built before the small village a few trees near the lake.
I suddenly recall the sharp appreciation of the riches a result of land in Shenzhen farmers and those three non-youth, even Mosuo people fear for the future. But I know that this fear has no meaning, really determine the future can only be Mosuo themselves.
There was a backpack at the Shangri-La guide travelers and local stories, two in the gravel on a hard row before the guide said, looking forward to one day repair roads here, so that my travel and life more convenient, backpackers that do not action, it is necessary to maintain the local original state, different identities produce different expectations for the future.
We did not maintain the original claims Mosuo people's living conditions if they themselves want to change the words. May be their social system to Kang Dezhu the impact of the so-called modern civilization do? Do not want to see is that one day only to become the Moso people's cultural symbols or commercialization of museum exhibits. But even Beijing's courtyard have been converted into luxury big fake antiques, a remote lake How lucky can do?
I sighed heavily. Mosuo people want to experience the original simplicity of the folk customs, and now know that paradise has long been just a dream. I have not had to live in the local people's interest in the understanding of customs, or Chinese-owned inn on the right to enjoy the lake when the bar is a distraction.
So to live a relatively late development of residents in the village-stemmed home.
Blossoming: DODO'S
Blossoming house has a wooden chair outside the shop, fully reflects the owner's sense of community has become a local gathering chat room, but also guests like the side of the sun while reading areas. Moso young people to go dancing at night often come to her shop open book before watching, or listening to music. Here then, unlike the Inn or the bar, down more as the village's cultural activity stations.
Blossoming music store, there are two, one is good, one is very good. Classical or popular, East or West, JAZZ, or folk, are to house the air is always a similar Tibetan incense floating comfort, and the outside of the pure blue sky, clear water, like the Star and tranquility. Sometimes BRIGHTMAN with Qingli voice-only cell expression Saul miss their loved ones on the long journey, sometimes unique magnetic ARMSTRONG slowly to tell you "WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD". Music not only has not even one let me down, and they often bring surprises, is to hear a sudden I had always liked but have not encountered in other places of fans when you feel like friends reunited. This is perhaps a less well-known campus folk, or one could not utter the name of French love songs.
Fairy House books and music, in no way less than that, in addition to a variety of travel magazines and records of the owner and friends traveling in an album, there are enough to make you spend an afternoon of brilliant sunshine a variety of prose fiction, such as de Beauvoir's " girlhood "or Yu's" Xingzhewujiang, "" The Little Prince "fairy tale or" Father and Son "comic strip.
This is at first sight and out of tune and savor the local feel of the shops complement each other to create a peaceful spiritual home. If it is not in the blossoming home, I definitely would not have been so Lugu Lake River to relax and pleasure.
No newspapers, no television, where the simple life has never let me feel the slightest defect. Outdoors into the lives of local people is slow, or sitting outside the shop looking at the shop of the day and clear blue lake, and my heart is a blank, revive a feeling of space.
Growing fame stemmed said he was a businessman, so that the worship of her male visitors quite surprised that in his eyes that she is simply the pursuit of an ideal example. I would very much appreciate the blunt words inside. This is a clever positioning, and will not fall into the embarrassment of ideal and reality of conflict.
Two years ago, like the trip stemmed from a chance to know the bar here a message to be transferred, so give the city a stable job and came here to do a new dispensers. Duo and more moves to have the parents from the village into the city was shocked that they specifically look at what his daughter in the end the nonsense. After listening to many of our blossoming reputation, though still not quite understand, but only by her daughter gone, and Mian Bude hands-on housing construction helped to do something.
Blossoming in front of us is always Dalie Lie, and do not shop hard for others to see. To expand the Inn's reputation, possession of tourists eat and drink Lazard sleep to play, to maintain the livelihood of shops, it is necessary to maintain the relationship between local people, there is no ability to somewhat Aunt aqing how to cope. Blossoming has been able to handy, and even can safely take care of the store to pay other people to leave for some time to do other things, this skill I am very admirable.
Plans for the future blossoming did not tell people, I would like blossoming may not stay in here. However, like the time to curl up and go has become a coveted attitude towards life. That some people take marriage as Moso, commitment superfluous, all go with the flow. Have to go there for the community as a whole still maintain a good ecological environment.
Optimistic about the blossoming of life, in reality, with their own efforts and diligence to the real world a better place. Blossoming love life is a good businessman. In other words pleasant words, she is a realistic idealist.
Lonely travelers are blossoming on the road just picked up (by blossoming as saying). He became a few years the northern drift, in the bar singing, and later had a strong impulse to flee the country began to tour. Come here to stay in the blossoming store became a bartender, a few months had passed. He does not like, went to had also served on the side of the photographic work, more time to stay in the store, quite a lot here to discuss the girls like it. A lonely traveler, always attracted him far unknown target, but the reality bearish, most people are reluctant to confide in mind, how easy for an extraordinary feeling to stay?
A gold and Xiao-Lan is the store would invite two young Mosuo girl, a very well-trained. The morning to know the foreign guests on the cooked side with the side plate of the coffee and sugar, but also remember that what the Chinese Congee Village to add soy sauce or sugar, pasta said to be learned from the blossoming very line. They also like open book read during leisure time, his face always has a shallow smile can not see what the trouble life. They are also infected with the joy of each one to the store person.
There are an incredibly gentle big yellow-dog next door likes the atmosphere of the shop on the blossoming side Couqu frequently, we are eating it Tuibian grinding to refining its stand, we have it to keep up with the rest of the building, once went so far as to keep up with the bed not go away.
Total to our blossoming family feel at home.
Drivers: Take the wedding day, a few people to look at the other side of Caohai Lake, take a running tour of the micro-surface transport. You converse with the driver know honest and stable marriage is taking the Han nationality.
He was in a town in Sichuan Lugu Lake who is already married rearing, often run lake tourism is a village in the work of the Sichuan Mosuo drowning girl spotted her on when Assia.
According to him, the relationship was not established that he was initially active. This relationship the woman is aware of and acquiescence at home, only without the knowledge of his wife, if she knew his wife would not have a large Chinese magnanimous.
It seems somewhat peculiar to outsiders on the outside of the triangular relationship between a society is willing to be mistresses of the story, placed here to reflect on them is not difficult to understand. 20 Mosuo girls do not need to climb to nearly 30 men in the emotional commitment to something beyond, such as economic responsibility or the child's upbringing. If they have a child, the child belongs to the mother and family, and will not be to maintain the link between, for the contribution of a child a man, after all, is just one cell only. From this perspective, emotion is the only reason together Mosuo people. It seems reasonable, if not more than the usual male-female relationships more reasonable to say.
Beneficial to the woman's point is that this relationship will not be more than moral condemnation of this society, but it means that if for some reason after the relationship ended, Moso girls will be stronger than the average person The self-healing capabilities? Maybe. Like alcohol, feeling like a gypsy fire, and burning ember of the relationship done, everything comes naturally.
Man's question a little bit large, though, and he, like most people find difficult to reject the friendly gestures do not need to bear the consequences, but with children, although the feelings of father and son are not the same as Muzizhiqing was born, the Chinese tradition are Do not let the child changed hands Room.
For this secret relationship, he is still known as the steal it, because it is his wife's infidelity. He said he had his wife well, put all income paid, and perhaps find more to make their own psychological balance.
Emotions can share? I do not know. But I at least learned from this special case, take the marriage is reasonable. Many of morality was the product of the social environment, Lugu Lake River during the Cultural Revolution had forced monogamy and finally let the matter rest, or respecting the diversity of the social system bar.
Passenger: Life Travel encountered in all sorts of people are also significant gains this trip.
STEVEN I've ever seen wearing a Chinese-style shirt and cigars like the only person. Work very hard, a person to achieve the company's CIO, suddenly felt very tired, I had to come up on the walk, he issued the invitation posted on the Internet success of my trip to Yunnan Province.
In addition to the special clothing, STEVEN there are a lot of extraordinary desired: he was a special glasses can be used from the sunlight lit; he favors application of new technologies, the new cell phone so that he can keep record of travel ideas and spark to a friend Records down; He advocated strongly against child marriage. . . I went to Le Zizi even after I heard he was a guest of the role of a dutiful son Naxi funeral. STEVEN it was not like the people of Shanghai, Shanghai people.
"Bacon" and the name came from his return from Tibet on foot wind chapped lips. Lugu Lake on the way to go with his previous half what a cool little sample, and later gave a speech on the Trinidad and Tobago addict to get acquaintance know that this is a non-commissioned officer. He is the first one I know backpackers on foot may be that more than 50 kilograms of backpack weight on this hobby I had to turn away from. From the military academy zipper began to travel on foot became interested in him beyond control, the usual habit of reading and the Internet, one has to go off on them, he told us to walk to see the human experience of the most true and beautiful scenery. He has a girlfriend and well-behaved, but he did not take her out on foot. He said that the girls are most likely on foot is an independent firm, let him respect but will not give him a feeling of home, so he would rather his girlfriend to go for leisure travel and the foot and the pain and loneliness for themselves enjoy. "Bacon" In the past been to Lugu Lake, this was deliberate in order to see blossoming, and he was not like I know more military servicemen.
There is also a husband and wife come in Zhuhai is also with us hit it off. Straight woman heart fast, very strong resemblance to TAO affinity, in charge of our diplomacy, every place will soon be doing a good job and the relationship between the local people will also defend their rights and opinions with other locals kicked up a Burton. Men usually take office used to lack of exercise, because with us the original honeymoon easily become tough zippers, and later with the actually finished the tiger jumped the natural barrier of the mountains canyons deep trench, and then his face pale, said enjoyable.
Blossoming, said Shen Jie live like a poet, I would rather visual into him as different people. Shen Jie, Guizhou like to wear out the clothes comb minority minority's head, the original advertising in Beijing, now the lake has a dark and of Zhu Caochuan open bar, the name of the boat from the local endemic. The bar is full of broad strokes eyeful of black wood, shelves are placed in voluminous masterpiece, I feel very heavy, particularly suited to talk about philosophy, and even the full moon that night lying on the threshold of the dogs also reveals a philosophy of home Zun Rong. Bars The best thing is you can hear the waves near the lake shore of the sound, large side windows are also an excellent appreciation of the lake. Bar an ancient well, there is a fire. That a few people sitting around the fire next to a fire shelves of people ask what is the kettle boiled, I casually said to be knowledge, Shen Jie answer to this is quite appreciated.
BECKY is a girl from Canada, to South Korea after college, taught for a year in English, before returning to China traveling. A word of Chinese, she can not walk from the north south and everywhere there will be in English to help the Chinese people shows that China's openness.
Many foreigners travel and the Chinese people are different is the emphasis on the process itself, and the book is a must, it seems that the Chinese people need more than spiritual nourishment. BECKY travel with a thick forties of last century the idea of writing a female thinker who should be starting from the philosophy-based novel. I asked BECKY What is the purpose of this trip, and she replied honestly do not know, maybe the search for the meaning of life bar. I asked her to find do, she said no, but do not worry, most of her friends on the class could not find any. BECKY asked me a small room was nicely put in the Chinese song whose works, I told her that a man named THIRTY CENTS a writer, she wrote a book describing the beauty of ordinary life, her death so many people cry. BECKY so remember San Mao.
WATSON yet to college to study Chinese for many years, and a man from Australia went to China to practice, and in love with the pretty much the same in the Lugu Lake on the Lai. He is not unusual to go the main road, travel along the lake in order to achieve the purpose of taking the road not a road, overcoming all obstacles and never tired.
NANCY, and GARY from BOSTON middle-class couples, probably 50 years old. The United States to stay tired want to see the world, Europe too close together, the African fear of not adapting to the cultural differences in mind big and convenient life in China, the first year to teach English in Beijing, then went to Kunming, the minority interest in the past. Usually busy teaching can only take advantage of weekend come out to play, and I had Erhai Lake in Dali's board met, they traveled along the eastern side of the Erhai Bai village. They go out very much money, there is a bus of money is not money sitting two three-wheeled motorcycle, and the local counter-offer mercy, kicking around to watch the kids say that we are stingy Bai.
Many more tourists, not like ours, people who are traveling. They dress up a very decent, with photography and shopping as the main agenda is to leave this for a tour of the traces and records. Most of them led by the small yellow walk through the streets of Lijiang, is a major consumer of Lijiang to Lijiang into a bazaar. There was a middle-aged man wearing a suit and tie, late in a certain swagger, Shen Jie walked into the bar Lugu Lake River by our unanimous acclaim, Shen Jie, "warm" reception of this first one to wear suits customers.
The usual rule is this: on foot have found a place, then the follower, and gradually to reach a large number of Sagittarius. They have different needs in different stages of development in places played a different role. Residents in the village came to the majority of followers, among them the so-called petty bourgeoisie, come to rural areas but also the addition of city people's sense of superiority, right here, many have accused the health service, and then shoot a few look like a boat ride the next day a quick run.
Travel behavior reflects the attitude of people's lives, and different passengers also reflects our colorful life.
Adu: Moso of the Han Chinese to leave the lake at a time when I had the privilege to know Adu.
Adu had in Shanghai, has its own cause, attracted by the life here, they stay, voluntarily became a Moso people's adopted son.
First saw him, Adu is blossoming at home reading a table in the bar window travels to London book, Jiangnan were handsome face, like a local, dark tan, he said, pointing out points when the money Mosuo people say that money there for his contribution, because he gave the morning draw the boat.
Adu really integrate into the Moso people's lives, and appreciate and enjoy. He told me that looks like the original management of village affairs is still at work, the unified management of the business of boating village, is based on the date assigned to every household, and to avoid excessive competition. Routed to several out of manpower and split the day's income. This income management account to Gejia women, its redistribution to the family pocket money for each person. Murakami's authority at home and even the production continues to exercise the authority of the tradition, not because of the nature of work and management of the content of different changes, which is also called bar with the times.
Adu on the Mosuo people the ability to resist the commercialization of pollution, as I do not worry, he felt they did not like the Han Chinese have so much selfishness and power struggle. They are honest, and external exchanges neither haughty nor humble.
Mosuo people of the townships there are many secular merits, Assia relations between the elders of the establishment of a guardianship, so things will not be consanguineous marriage; of public trees, felling also has strict requirements. (Tree-felling case that people in Taiwan because it is privately owned trees, so I can not interfere). Adu also told me that a lot of outsiders are not accustomed to the practice in fact very good science, such as sunny plateau region with frequent bathing may wash a natural layer of protection is not conducive to health.
I have deliberated some say that they can at least centrally cow dung, you can also use the methane gas to reduce water pollution. Adu asked me dirty dung do? If the locals do not think there would be no unsightly clean-up necessary. As for the question of water, the lake's natural cleaning ability to ensure there is still the country's highest levels of drinking water, tourism development, early fall and the village had begun to consider a unified drainage treatment, residents in the village is only a matter of time. Now natural resources, there is no need for the use of biogas.
Adu, then I started listening to rethink the definition of health. Perhaps we are accustomed to complying with the rules of health is a healthy almost forgot the only criterion for health. There are no diseases plagued our cities, people live a simple, health, longevity and happiness than the city people do not know how much. Life could have been simple, had a generous nature, to transform the creation of human beings brings many questions to the complexity of city life Gaode dirty, simple and harmonious place in the original implementation of our health standards and social is not a bit much fuss over it?
It was also the lives of the Lugu Lake disagree, saying that people here are not hard-working, engaged in work is not "creative." What is the meaning of life? What is the meaning of life? Is not busy is fulfilled? Makes sense to create? This is just a matter of opinion does not answer the question, life's diversity is the answer itself. But I know I slack here is real, and I am here to relax and happy is real, and I have been somewhat reluctant to leave, and half-jokingly admonished Adu, if the village have a place to sell 10 million to let me know.
Finally still have to hit the road, I smiled and blossoming Lugu Lake River to bid farewell to return to Lijiang, when I suddenly became very bad mood. Several days later, I have become accustomed to the rural quiet, simple, slow and pure life, the immediate flow of people bustling, noisy ear ringing voice I actually like a village into the city just like a little dizzy or even know what to do, I have never have so tired of the city. I know that I was poisoned by the lake, or even just left to flee back to that place. I called to the blossoming home, tell them already missed, and they said it would come home.
But I can not go back, because eventually one another. I have neither the skill, loyalty in the lake to create a blossoming life, and the Hermitage have not yet Adu heart, I am just a layman.
I can do is adjust their emotions, keep in mind that Lake clear water and beautiful like gods to return home a noisy city, like the moon that night Erhai Lake, so that heart always full of quiet, in the noise to find their own quiet and tranquility.
I might Zaiqu Lugu Lake, let the water wash the soul tired and dust. But I also know that the real quiet in every human heart, where a simple pleasure.
November 21, 2003 the first draft was completed in Shanghai
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