The real simplicity
------------------- Lugu Lake in Yunnan Province of the articles Travels
Preface: This Journey is not the time to write, because back to the city for so long, south to Yunnan, Lugu Lake south to the kind of shock has been the city powerless car slowly raw water horse numb again, when the was the impact that a strong feeling of being compelled to speak faded, no longer feeling the day --------- This is really sad the city, downtown behind everything is indifferent, including feelings. We live in Sri Lanka, as in the Matrix in a huge farm to survive as human beings, the loss of those born with a strong sincere feelings, and this erosion is too mild, and we lost, but unaware. In addition to nothingness, or emptiness seems.
It is the last one in 2003, close to work after midnight, looking down from the high office, long a busy street, lights bright, urban light pollution a serious light up the night like day, the sky not see the stars. Rigby Island that night, looked on Lake sound asleep, the same dark night without stars, but as the thick black. Only Mosuo people's bonfire Yingliang the Lugu Lake water. As a night to stay in memory, a dream seems real.
I want to get a nicely Travels something this subject, hesitated for a long time, or not called "lake Dream Shadow" It was misty and beautiful name. Because when those buried deep in the heart of the original emotion is awakened, I found it extremely regrettable: text representation are so pale and weak. I used to express feelings of small children, it can not accurately describe the feeling of those souls have been touched. Then, you use the name of a simple bar ---------- Actually, Lugu Lake is such a simple and pure place.
Yunnan, variable weather, a rain into the winter. Yesterday, wearing short-sleeved shorts over the street Luanhuang it, a spring night intoxicated after Piaoqi rain in the morning immediately cool autumn Xiren Lijiang. Since we got up early, ready to coachman to Lugu Lake. Lijiang early morning store has not yet opened, the tourists get up early hurry Xingsewuwu, Square Street bluestone floor was a big lesson from light rain washed people crowded than gnaw day is flavor. A Naxi's uncle in the street junction branch to buy cake from oven and bought two purported breakfast, take advantage of boyfriend not pay attention, I also ran the Yiliu Yan, secretly bought two dry rations to prepare a long way when the teeth (the fact that proved that this is absolutely the right choice). Ate a great deal of Lijiang Grandpa fragrant fried cake, in the misty rain, in the full historical trace of the old street to look around, can not help feeling: the feeling of travelers make a nice! Of course, the rain coat (Note: must be a professional rain, walks in the rain have a sense of superiority, hee hee) are essential.
Cars gnaw on the appointment of the wretched days of the minibus in front are two alien girl and her boyfriend were enjoying themselves and their talk, the way peers are to guide and translator (and later did I learn that they are in Israel! Amazing, foreigners to see more, Jesus first time voters, but encountered), I do not mind and their chatter, children with two good eyes staring out the window --- because of incessant rain in recent days, between two mountains The Jinsha River fast-flowing, and the yellow river torrents, flanked Conglong clamps the shore arrangement of trees, clouds of wind around, the car had become even higher, Shung Shan mountains in the gradually climbed the peak, murky and the sky was green under the dripping trees, large group large Mission Nongyun gray head hanging, as if asking for you can touch the sky, while the distant horizon, golden Shuoshuo fleet off the earthly wine, we are walking in heaven do? Such a strange scene, straight, such as illusion, I would like a long way off, go on this trip.
Extremely poor mountain roads in Yunnan, finished colored snacks, the blood concentration of the stomach, trapped intended to hit, I fall asleep (since I was lost in a hopeless plight of sleepiness, in Yunnan, 10 days, as long as the sit any kind of vehicle, no matter how bumpy it is, I can dream of in the shortest possible time will be the Duke of Zhou, but also re-awake to sleep, and sleep re-awake, invigorating), and then woke up when it is noon, the car parked in the Ninglang Yi Autonomous County of the city. Ninglang is to Lugu Lake, must be passed through, I went to Lugu Lake was playing this before, Yang Namu two cars also have to fight this off! At the same time Ninglang only where that can be used for lunch. My bad habits were many gluttonous did not say is the most pro-beds and toilets, countless times a day this way, into the restaurant's small courtyard I do not hesitate to ask where the bathroom, little sister froze a moment, point to a host . With a passion for the upcoming feast of the vision of rich minority, I am impatient, rushed into the ---- Why do I want to beauty being irrelevant wordy Ninglang the hotel it is really because it is gave me another huge shock! ---- While the boyfriend had taught me not to hum a few are not completely uncivilized nation's health conditions have any hope, but this "toilet" or the deadly hurt me! Although we evaluated the I eat: even five minutes later the sky is falling, I can Mianbugaise sitting there eating the final table chopsticks, but this time I have completely failed, I panicked find any tumble fled out, can not be suppressed retching up, and this led directly to lunch, I lost all interest in ----" toilet, "the ground covered with the larvae of some animals, flying through the air! My life, I fear the most! I have tears in their eyes heathens sitting beside the table, watching people eat a car from time to time a few neurotic retching, only to spend two hours after the beautiful Lugu Lake to comfort my nervous system injury.
Car of the move on after lunch, I am using the car the morning of the cake cool comfort of my stomach. Worth of grievances occasion, the driver should get off the train and said viewing platform up.
It is said the only way to Lugu Lake in relation to the whole position.
As with many ethnic minorities in Yunnan border, in my mind has always been shrouded in mystery, while the Lugu Lake, because of her legend, but also have added on top of mystery in the mystery. I can not wait to reveal her face veil and see behind the veil of how a refined face. Viewing platform is a small hill, wooded climb after the emergence of Lugu Lake taken by surprise at hand. Is coming to a close after midnight, varies among the trees and saw the Lugu Lake.
Surrounded by distant mountains in a pool of clear water, the sky gloomy, even more clear blue water, static, such as at the child, Not a trace of human pyrotechnic gas. Rigby Island, lying quietly among the boundless expanse of blue water, green and pleasant, waves Linlin, mist and wind around.
A gentle Shude touched my heart, gas whom knot be deeply grieved. Is the soul of the home, right? Is the fairy's home, right? My eyes overflow with tears slowly out, let me melt in the lake, and let me melt bar!
Reminded of a song to "side of the lake":
Some say:
Alpine lake is a shed tears in the Earth's surface.
Then, said:
River of tears is my pillow hanging on your heart side of the lake.
Heard, to Lugu Lake Do not live in Luohe, there were already too commercialized, and many people put there as a red-light district. To live in Rigby, while Rigby is very primitive, probably not the original bathing places, the reason why we went all the way to Shanghai put lake, not that of the original finding that long-hoped-do?
The afternoon, a slight coolness, the car entered the Rigby Island, when a bit like into the Shangri-la. Houses are wooden, and adjacent lake, the lake anchor Zhu Caochuan, breeze rippled the lake, willow lake breeze, the waves drift unknown plants flowers, a few dogs ran from our side, duck Xia Xia's swinging the pacing, Zhuaniua are stocking, more than the city, a countless number of well-being of the same.
Lodging inn is a typical residential Mosuo, all wood, which is five meters out the lake, on the second floor is a Huanlang toward the direction of the lake, hung a hammock. This is not the countless petty bourgeoisie of the big capital yearned to live the life? Facing the lake, the warmth of spring lying to listen to waves, contend they die? Has finally come to put aside their baggage, with the car wait a few people live in the village walk. Along the lake before the line, lakeside Inn both large and small, some bars, lines are not far to see a bar with a big transparent windows, leg lift into, but surprised to find here, but it was the famous home Ruleiguaner of Tashi ah! Dubious went in, (heard Tashi is a person who would do business, I am so scary slaughtered) a tall man greeted us warmly, come in a cup of tea ah! ---- To be honest, to Yunnan, so a few days, have not seen a few pretty girls, the plateau is too blazing sun, women and old Yi Gai-speed, black and red cheeks full of wrinkles, look at than the actual age has played a large enough teens, but the Mosuo men. . . . . Most Mosuo tall slender man, bones and muscles strong, no plains everywhere bloated image of the plateau wind and sun to the health of their dark color, is said to be descendants of Kublai Khan gave them full of alien origin, style the hard contours of the face, because there is still matriarchal form of society, men rarely status is not high and crafts, so on the feminine temperament, and appearance of the sturdy together the strange, forming a bridge on the male model had facial paralysis to death is also difficult to made into a wild sexy. And Tashi, it is estimated is a prime example.
Tashi is very beautiful, it does not, as rumors have stated more then give us after the Next pour on to speak with him several of my friends went to see if they are not a lot, more often, is a non-stop smoking, Tashi Mosuo wear the traditional pink silk shirt, a dirty, dirty jeans, hat head caravan, despised by my boyfriend while lecherous behavior, but still a shadow for us together. It is said that those who come here woman, will screen name and photo of Tashi.
Chatted for a while day, I walked out of the house, and outside the lake there are big blocks of stone, I climbed up to the sitting up there watching the lake, see tired, they lie on top of the lake breeze gently blowing on the cheek, the sun came out a number of , the sky clouds passed, that is beside the green lake, the distance a golden sunflower bloom. Suddenly too lazy to follow the same track, and too lazy to look at, and too lazy to think of rare Floating Life on the 1st busy at this time scenario this time heart, a rare demand that can only be occasional, I simply looked on with both hands, slightly sleep.
My dear, you know, you tell me, why we must look for four times then? I came, I saw, I got a taste, would not that enough? Let us stay down, but that half an hour, let me feel the quiet Lugu lake half an hour.
Finished his tea, Tashi there is not even collect the money, he said a friend to drink tea is free.
Unwittingly twilight, after dinner Wu Wu catch the bonfire party, come here to sing and dance to the Moso girls boys regarded as labor, the daughter country girl so boyfriend and I are disappointed. They make a fuss for those of us accustomed to seeing tourists do not blame, and looked numb. But the music sounded, those boys, those who just also face stiff stiff boys, music, like a sudden awakening of their souls, they walk a fine line with the trend into the wooden flute, step lightly, graceful poise, firelight shining on the his face was covered with a layer of intoxicated halo, instant radiant, and just Panruoliangren. Suddenly the music is heard intermittently in the Tsietsi Hu He, Chun Chun is in high spirits flying high, romantic suave. Playing recorder young man led the team from time to time Ta Ge and OK, sometimes mischievous to gather the more the smaller the circle dance, a girl to squeeze in the middle, he controlled the music and joy, here is the Mosuo world, we are stranger Where to get into the melt? My boyfriend quietly withdraw from team would appreciate their selfless Huan. And beside him a young sister Mosuo chat, she told me that Mosuo man has no place at home crafts does not matter most, that is, sisters hug their children, boating charge of the helm, the most glamorous moment, fear is also is a night dances and the annual gathering of the midnight. Only at night, they will become the center of attention, therefore, Lugu Lake at night, a man of the night. The Mosuo people like is a natural singer, whether young and old, free to a "Tibetan Plateau" is enough to make us ashamed of it hard. After the ball and I mixed her boyfriend walking in the busy crowd back, today is cloudy, the sky pitch-black not see a trace of starlight moonlight, the lake breeze blowing, the waves and shore, Ocean Waves blowing and the lake vaguely have suddenly invisible for is light. There is no roar of the machine, without annoying the noise, all the way without words.
Back to the little inn, in the red End Yehan in Duoduosuosuo bath, go around the small courtyard outside the house, her boyfriend is fleet and two twin brothers Moso tribe chat. We asked them many questions, including the right to go the views of marriage? How do they treat women headed? Their future plans, their understanding of marriage. Both of them made no secret of speaking a lot, two young men with little 17-year-old than I am full of small for a decade. His face is a sincere expression. How should I say? Their ideological self-contained camp can not be simply a modern, conservative or open such a word to describe the lake most of the day put to Shanghai, I suddenly realized that at this point only the real charm of the Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake does not like me previously considered as the "original", in order to truly understand a nation, you have to in-depth communication with them will only know their innermost thoughts. The simple but hard-working people have spoken emit bright side of humanity, by contrast, urban feel greatly ashamed of the hypocrisy inherent.
To sleep that night looked on Ocean Waves. Early morning wake up, push the door out, Alarmed by the sun was shining bright and sunny. Rushed downstairs to see the lake near the sun shining golden sparkling lake, waves Linlin, the water swept away gnaw bleak days of the gray-green, the sun the next boundless.
Sat Zhu Caochuan lake. Labor are the two girls and a boy Mosuo, interestingly, boating effort family on two girls, while the steering is so light and family on that boy. Rowing is one of the Moso girl named two cars Ram, is a cheerful talkative girl, asked her if she felt did not feel that this is unfair, she shakes her head, lightly, said all the previous work is to be a woman, and now a lot of progress, , and men at the helm now, but so that they are not willing to do! Moreover, they are infirm and can not do heavy work (I Yaran)
I then asked her if she felt the system of marriage do not feel bad to go? Men middle of the night to go, Tianbuliangjiu get leave during the day and may pretend do not know and can not live together every day?
She did not feel. In this case, she said a woman will be very independent, not dependent on men, living apart does not produce property disputes, the two people in love would not have the impact of wealth, love is pure love.
I said to myself silently that she said has some truth, still can not be reconciled, I pulled close to her boyfriend, said: If we get married, you can live together every day, I buy food he came to say that I cook him washing dishes, and he will not let me mention something heavy, they do not hurry in the early morning to escape the cold inside. So much good?
2 Car Ram did not answer my question, she said, in fact, not as outsiders Mosuo now as a random walk that marriage, more often, is monogamous, it is a fixed relationship.
I do not know, Moso girl's heart, we will occasionally aspire to live Zhaomu Han Chinese do?
Chuaner leisurely forward, unknowingly come to the lake central, the lake has become clear, the sky cloudless, the sun golden shine on the lake, plateau lakes, such as blocks of transparent sapphire, really a kind of impulse to jump into the lake, and lakes melting as a whole. Plants floating in the lake to spend the waves, countless small white flowers bloom quietly, drift with the tide. Toyama touch of green, the weather was pleasant, two car Lahm gently sang, at the helm of the Tashi (also known as Tashi, Mosuo person's name is from Living Buddha, there are a lot of repetition, Rigby Island Tashi said to have several) soft-phase and is a loud noise beside the night fire, love songs:
Elder brother, small Elder brother ~ ~ ~ ~
Thousands of miles to meet,
That memorable night, met a campfire
The eye and says the number of words
Wolia dependent, emotional long-~~~~~~~
Elder brother, Mada Mi,
Elder brother, to Damien ~~~~~~~~~
A-Mei, small-Mei ~~~~~~
Thousands of miles, to meet, to meet ~
Singing is far from drift, Toyama heavily upon layer, the reflection in the water, imitation costs exposure to heaven. Fan Chung-yen was Yueyang Tower in mind that I may borrow a: to spring, and if the King-ming, placid, upper and lower daylight, a boundless ---- It is this time this scenery. The distance a water snake head held high, walk through the surface of the lake, blue lake split a white line. I have always been afraid of snakes, but in this paradise like the lake, I could not help but hand Pick up the lake to drink, and is a psychological or real? I think this is the plateau lake is so sweet and willing to cleanse.
2 Car Ram with a smile told us that drinking the water of this lake, a partner will always listen to your words, this phrase a board have praised you for the water to drink, and a time for laughter, crowded.
Move on to the Nepal sai. Lamb said the two vehicles at noon to take us to the Mosuo people at home, take a look at the most sacred fireplace Moso, noon to eat at Grandma's house. To stop for landing, she Shumenshulu direction of a family, small roadside grass on the ground, several young men form a circle Mosuo children playing cards, there are individuals holding a small baby, there are several people bored of lying sun太阳. We are a little criticism, two cars are not accustomed to seeing strange Ram say: So, you let them dry? (Oh, I see my boyfriend, red eyes), enter the door, spacious courtyard empty, two car Lahm not care, directly into the house, Peng Chu apples to us, start their own deft's light a fire ---- ready to cook a really strange, do not say hello, and the owner of do?
Boyfriend secretly pulled me out the door, to say the Moso people's grandmothers house, while the big family of the most authoritative grandmother to come back, we need to buy some gifts for her tribute. Qiguaibaguai found great difficulty in a grocery shop selling children, things are pitifully small, we almost bought empty shops, just bought four boxes of cigarettes and a case of beer, to go against the time, a sudden look to a small room. Inside there ---- Zhu Biaorou! ! ! Taking advantage of people do not pay attention, we have two Shigeyanse, crept away in. ---- Startled! ! !
Zhu Biaorou is a very sacred food Moso tribe it! Many of the national character of the major festivals, are missing the essential. Can be greatly Zhu Biaorou immediate piece of fertilizer, but it really did not know the two of us were stunned: Time is a bit long, thick skin, the top covered with dust, fat part of the Wax slightly yellow, block pork above, densely covered with small insects and eggs! Hu Wang a, away as fast as dollars!
Back to the yard just the old grandmother had been returned, a few more yard Liren, chickens up the fire, really busy, and we respectfully send a gift, because the language barrier, the old grandmother just smiled to us and said We also did not understand a few words, two cars Lam told us that this is already a gift. This entered the house to see what her grandmother, only to find the so-called sacred grandmother houses and shabby fireplace is a complete mess, facing the door is a table, the above simply put chopsticks and all sorts of things, fireplace in the door the left, either side of a two humble beds, bed side shops are straw mats, front fireplace is a shrine, smoky, a little can not see our true colors again, but the offerings is like, see the timely support . Dim light throughout the house, furnishings thick Jane, proposed projects do not seem comfortable. Dinner, the table is very rich Dao Shi, 2 car Lahm strongly recommend we eat the middle of a plate of meat, said it was an old grandmother entertain guests Zhu Biaorou ,---- Zhu Biaorou! ! ! Come with a few people very interested, and frequently cite chopsticks, only me and her boyfriend say so outright.
Later, the fact that to my grandmother house tour a few months left an unforgettable impression left after the Lugu Lake, my arm around Tuier played a big red envelope, Qi Yang incomparable, months, Nan Xiao. Is not difficult to imagine that housing contributed grandmother.
Carefree time is always had the speed of flight, the two-day trip to Lugu Lake and finally to the moment of farewell, and to the weather during the same house is gloomy days, moisture too heavy, early morning Lake is wrapped in a thin layer of mist. Clean up Tingdang downstairs, eat too few big pie, we set out on the way home. We played two days to accompany the landlord sent us to the car, waved the mundane, as if we are only familiar with one of his relatives, to walk around here, have fun, like to meet again soon. Or come to when a small van, or to the time of a handful of people crowded up later, we concluded overnight, then leave this beautiful lake, the faint feelings of regret are the same as mist, indistinct lingering in his mind. LISA's run-up to last year, she originally wanted to move on after the walk to the Shanghai Lake Lake Inagi, the thought came Afterwards, I was living here for a month (I have been malicious in the heart of speculation, this is a true romantic passion nurtured a place, LISA will not be moved until no dust hearts go bar), I was surprised at the civilized life of the people, one or two days you can revel in the beauty of being, time, month-long, is how to endure the cold night here, and poor health conditions? I have no progress till the land, until first saw the stunning fade, until her country's Yan light dispersed after the eye-catching rings that emerged after the time when the simple truth, they would understand its real appeal. Astonishing glimpse Wu Wu can not come and go here to experience the difference between the. Traveling to many men, and Shanghai lake lake two days off, but for the first time with the feelings of attachment.
Farewell, Shanghai Lake Lake. I gently away, as I gently came.
Years goes by, wish you the purity of the resident.
Author: pudding19
