Lhasa debris
Vacant know it belongs to you know how to quiet snow-capped mountains and lakes will belong to you
- Tibetan proverb
For each traveler to Tibet, Lhasa is almost must pass through, or as a starting point, or to put a full stop, or as a transit point. With regard to all kinds of Lhasa, I can not make out; on the feelings of Lhasa, certainly all You Ziwei.
Return
June 15, 2003, a丰田越野车traveling the broad road to Lhasa in 81, I sat on the rear compartment. Yunnan-Tibet line This is the best section of the road, but also by the best car ever, but it is the most uncomfortable journey. The car stopped only found the front row to sit with the full to the brim, luggage compartment, placed two benches, each sit one person only and can Cypriots. Driver greeted us sat down, the vertical backpack at your side, and then heavily and pulled, even if all OK. In the bumps in the side of my backpack, small pieces of luggage across their chests and cramped space, and even adjust the sitting position is extremely arduous. Kan-sea transfer of the driver of space of my concern, he native of Nanjing, Qinghai and the growth of living in Tibet, Dalai Lama's cousin and the 14 primary school students. OK to Mila Hill, the driver opened the door baggage transfer, I was freed, extending its limbs grievances. Thick clouds, the countless white hada surround the stone pass, the wind was fierce and streamer dance. Mila Mountain 5020 meters above sea level, Lhasa River and Niyang originate, where is the boundary between Lhasa and Nyingchi.
Before entering the city accepted the last SARS checks. The road tested a variety of thermometers, catch bus ride trucks, belly wrap brunch with dry food, only the evening meal can be an sat still, and fought a battle against bugs. Not a deliberate self-torture, an exercise in conditions of limited, like corruption, have no doors. Dusk sky gradually, the destination ahead of schedule come what excites me, and his sister plan on how T Treat yourself to the eating court Tibetan foods, Majiami going to sleep until he woke up ... ...
21:00 before, longing for the Holy Land, standing in the streets, dim lights, pedestrians little. For the first time the excitement in Tibet compared to today's peace is simply worlds apart. At that time I just take pictures of the plane would hurry to find it now appears, Gonggar Airport is a scenery of the surrounding snow-capped mountains can not be called. Asia Hotels settle down to find accommodation, Gangchu the door was followed by a beggar; in the street playing IC card phone, is right in saying that the rise of people suddenly moving their faces all the way to my front, I was surprised, he pointed at the wrist, which means now points, I hurriedly waved his hand, his eyes look at me with a complex one, and walked away. This is not the impression of Lhasa! I have some sense of loss.
That night, a Friends of the emotion, the same day last year, to Lhasa. I have received such a message: After the test of life and death, and finally reach the dream of Lhasa. At the moment I sat in the school corridor eight Long daze, not knowing what is waiting ahead! One of the vicissitudes of life and the confusion Let me moving. Now I am in Lhasa, also late at night, standing on the corridor Hachiro school daze, write wound up state of mind.
Wandering
During that time, and if anyone saw the red pair of black trousers, wearing a wide-along hat, carrying assault package, wrapped in a kettle hanging, people who send text messages while walking, it may be me. Lhasa multi-night rain, Ye Lan listen to the rain, thinking, "Fashion goes in cycles to listen to rain during the Ming dynasty Shenxiang selling apricot" morning Ramoche Road, wet quartzite night rain leaked secret, but has no trace of Heng Fa Chuen . A city filled with sunlight during the day the taste of a lama in red, is to hang blue umbrella, walked across the street from the "lawlessness" of the idiom suddenly jumped into my mind. Similarly, Qian Xin Buddha, so why are the bald-headed monk the mainland, while the Tibetan lamas more hair? To this end, I asked the U.S. side had Ramoche lama, he shook his head.
Through the Potala Palace Square, looking tall cloth Palace, even Xinruzhishui. Arrived in Lhasa in early occasion, I'm not contain himself to see the idea of cloth Palace, paused for a rest on the straight to come, when the grand palace of cloth into my eyes, I caught her breath! Heart swing of "back to Lhasa and return to that Abdallah!," Abdallah, I am back, then why not ecstatic? You say there's like home in Lhasa in the town, I laugh at their hypocritical, at the moment understand that this is not false words. Wind and rain, the gorgeous attributable to flat.
However, by no means plain of the Lhasa. Every day, knock for the long head of the Tibetan Jokhang Temple or in the turning lane, and remembered scriptures, hands above their heads, go to the chest, then V to the ground, the body prostrate on the floor followed, and then stood up. This kind of action, they do not know how many times repeated, every time it touches the hearts of onlookers. Pilgrims on the road, they camped along the way knock the head length, etc., came to live in the Holy Land. Jokhang Temple in front of a hut, inside the butter lamps Chang-ming immortal, butter entirely by turning the people to donate through the jumping candlelight, listening to the murmur of chanting, I lament with great faith to see the soul of the pure.
Streets surrounding the Jokhang Temple is the famous Barkhor Street, which is transferred by the person of St., and also the locals and tourist shopping destination. In addition to the shops along the street, crowded street was also packed to endure to suffer in a number of stalls are filled, par pile up clockwise movement of the crowd, shouting, "You're good you had any brains!" In Kham stall holders, mobile huckster, look around The buyers, shaking turning cylinder Tibetans, where streets and marketplaces filled with gas, is to understand Tibet's window. Ex-I was confused a dazzling display of jewelry his eyes, but I do not know from the ankle cut from the current point to Amoy Baby, accidentally street renovations, the right blocks have been sealed once bustling streets of a sudden cold front pommel horse rare. Wait Bajiao Street opened, I picked some turquoise strung into necklaces and bracelets, wearing their turn in the street, past the Tibetan people are staring at me, they will happily think they look good, he was immediately against: Do you think ah! They laugh you are buying is a fake! A Friends of the Tibetans in Lhasa, often pull that they have to change her bracelet. No one pull of the turquoise I said I was good, that I look better appreciation of her, but the geese are swans, which, after a string of never wearing a bracelet since Tuixia.
Last summer, a friend sent text messages or e-mail are in middle of the night, I would earnestly to persuade should pay attention to rest, to prevent altitude sickness. When I was on the ground, too, you want to, ah, 9 days was still lit, 10:00 eat dinner, and skull-bone on the skull-bone to the middle of the night. Moreover, rare to come here, so many good place to wait for me to patronize the next trip going to implement, so many new feelings worth digesting, I am a bit reluctant to go to sleep. Facts have proved that a good law and order in Lhasa and evening back to hotel never dangerous encounter, but added in the afternoon, before being tracked Lama.
Inn
Backpacker often choose Beijing East Road in Asia, Hachiro school or auspicious days. Originally planned to each household a few days, identify the best inns, later abandoned due to high prices auspicious day. With the highest scores, of course, in Asia, both clean and affordable, 24-hour hot water, bed sheets dare to use white, six human only 15 yuan. Asia Hotel also has a spacious courtyard, as long as there is time, he can sit in a daze on a stone bench.
Hachiro school reputation, in fact difficult to vice. Ought likewise to the room and the old, paint peeling off; attendant to open the door to find the total will have to wait half a day; the bathroom, there are unknown reptiles; a single say that I am the unfortunate incident is enough to reduce Hachiro school expectations.
Early one morning, I was awakened by the sound ticks actually the ceiling leaks, sleeping bag was wet for a large, thanks to waterproof sleeping bag, or on the Shuimanjinshan of. I reflected this to the waiter, and she disagree. Go to Shannan before they filed the moment backpack, bed Tuibian opened a strap of metal will tear a hole in 10 centimeters long, so I have heartache. We do in this department I can say that due to carelessness, but I could find no case in other parts of experience.
I was asked in Lhasa, Zhu Na Well, I hesitate to say: Ya.
Food
Taste real estate is my hobby yogurt. If the tobacco of the believers, I will smoke cigarettes real estate, real estate wine drinking. I tasted highland barley wine, rice wine similar to the taste and drink when the alcohol concentration did not realize that, a while back when the dizziness, highland barley wine is no wonder that people say, "sweet intoxicating"; also tried a Lhasa beer, just any beer to me exactly the same. Or should I say yogurt bar. Beijing has a yogurt, served in thick ceramic bottle, I would not put it down on the rough container Park, Lhasa could be more simple, was solidified shape, packed in a bowl, sprinkle with sugar scoop with a spoon to eat sweet and sour at random. In the vicinity of Chong secon spend 3 to buy a bottle of yogurt, canned, straight happy to open my eyebrow blurred vision.
Chat End yogurt, yogurt cake to say啦. Snow hotel 6 yuan a yogurt cake, 21-point half of the amount after concession, but sold out in less than a night. Sure enough, the first time I went with just cheese cake, taste good, I am pondering how attractive yogurt cake in the end? To try a piece of the afternoon the next day, sweet and delicious lubrication, well-deserved reputation! Please leave a waiter in the evening and then sold me, I keep one's word and to, says sold out. Disappointed, I thought a is also reasonable, who stood six money are willing to not do business that must wait until the evening only sell three money? Four days later, I returned from the Shannan, a waiter questioned why I did not keep their word? I have been to. I have the cake hidden in the fridge, they do not know, before I sold out. I see! Heart burst trigger. This troubles her to set aside four to share with their peers and finally bought two. As a result, snow hotel yogurt cake and simplicity of the attendants have become the reason for my nostalgia Lhasa.
Often referred to Lhasa, I always remember that in possession of a bright side to eat sweet tea and drink sweet tea situation. Tibet Road surface is very tough beef noodle soup; sweet tea with milk or milk powder plus tea, salt, white sugar is made, is the daily consumption of beverages Tibetans. The national costumes of the attendants put the aluminum tea kettle in the cruise back and forth, added 2 cents a cup. I was sitting on a bench,一杯接一杯to drink, tea house where there is no artificial lighting, natural light from the window shot come in, take a look around leisurely leisurely outside the local elderly and the steady stream of people, it definitely feels very "in Lhasa."
If you want to eat Tibetan meal, you can choose Yu Tuo Road, possession of the hospital next to the palace Tibetan meal, ox tongue, curry rice is very authentic. Perhaps I look forward to driving up a long-standing expectations, possession of meals left me the impression that not impressive enough.
In addition to Tibetan restaurants in Lhasa there are a lot of Sichuan food stores, Kailas Hotel next to the dumplings and dumpling shop on a full-Lin Kuo East Road, big bowl of Sichuan taste good. Speaking of full flavor, I uttered a joke. Namco returned from Lhasa, to discuss on what to eat lunch, I say home, "Wei Chuan" Yes. C asked: "how and MSG's name the same?" A: "Probably the name is good, everyone likes." By Lin Kuo East Road, Zhong Jie laugh, not Wei-Chuan, but full flavor. A dig at me: Yes Well, two words are credited to the right! Since then, ashamed to listen to hide, a good memory, I got a "plateau amnesia."
Attractions
Lhasa, the ancient name of some logic, the seventh century AD, in this Songtsan its capital. Leading attractions when pushed Potala Palace, the tickets of up to hundred dollars, countless treasures, a travel agent, general manager, said these precious enough to buy Shanghai. This not done its homework, I have not entered, only the Dragon King Lake Park, Chakpori, cloth Palace Square, the Jokhang Temple, Temple cloth taken from different angles. Chakpori of Mo Yan stone prestigious, turn around the mountain for a long time, asked a lot of people said they do not know; tricycle took me Baita, to say that it is. Hu Wen Bark, a Tibetan mastiff turned their fire on the mountain, responsibilities and I broke into the territory it scared me fled. The multi-party gathering information before I left the day before to watch the stone. Depressed, if my last 200 meters to go any further, that is, the entrance!
History textbooks referred to Princess Wen Cheng, Nepal, Tibet square-foot statue known and pro-princess is also a messenger. Songtsan for the construction of the Jokhang Temple and the two princesses were Ramoche to worship the dowry of two Sakyamuni Buddha Tibet. Ramoche door east, toward the Chang'an, in order to Princess Wen Cheng was built, dedicated to 12-year-old life-sized statue of Sakyamuni; the Jokhang Temple at the main entrance to the west towards Nepal, respect for the princess and the built-foot, dedicated to the age of eight life-sized Buddha statues, from Buddhism flourished in Lhasa. Later Tang Dynasty Fan hostility, Zao will be 12-year-old life-sized statue into the Jokhang Temple Tibet to prevent recapture lands east Bing Tang. A change so far.
Light rain early morning, Ramoche monks were on the morning classes, hall chanting coming from inside like Sound Of Nature. To find the age of eight life-sized statue of Sakyamuni, Miao-phase solemn, Body symmetry could not help but lament the Dan-skilled artist craftsmen. Surrounding the temple is by turning the Road, a corner of the burning butter lamps, wall color has been unable to identify, inadvertently see the windows, but it is surprised that this wall 1.5 meters thick enough. When the value of the two monks in the temple burning incense before the recitation, with a small side of the US Lama slightly pass in Chinese, I would only possession of a few commonly used words, it had to communicate in English, he was pleased to have come up with photos and share with us.
Turn on the second floor of the roof, sitting on a red platform, while chanting monks, two things I forgot. After capture, press the shutter no longer fixed, is it that I inadvertently crash the gods, so that the camera like a magician? At that time I really to think that this incident for allowing me to end the tour in the Ramoche Temple.
People
For tourists, the eyes and lens of the landscape or less the same feelings, and fortunes are unique. Before starting off, with the network and books, we can see how the landscape of Thoughts, but can not predict who met in what locations, what's the story. These are precisely the tourism lies its charm.
Lhasa is the gathering place for backpackers, many of which legendary figure. Some cyclists passed the Qinghai-Tibet, Sichuan-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet highway and Ali, dressed in black, insert a pair of eagles back hair, I saw him in the Kailas bar, self-presentation is "Eagle hair," but people call its "feather" is to be a "down Mao's eagle better than chicken," popular saying. Left Lhasa, the day of feathers in the sub-cycling the courtyard, behind the Eagle especially eye-catching hair in the sun. Some people resigned to this, a stay for months, in order to save money simply renting; others come here to shop because they like it left; someone for eight years and a half years traveling the country, working save money on travel expenses, came to Lhasa when the have been penniless; a Hong Kong travel documents for the processing of Ali has been looking into more than a month, certificates but can not find sympathizers hand, desire may come to nothing, he did not live to regret. Go to Tibet, and might have become a fashion, but for others, have more meaning.
Would like to travel around the plateau, in this most convenient to meet fellow traveler, "Tibet in leather-covered books," a recipe for making friends Cheats, one for "Majiami a daze during the day, bidding law: it is to do deep-like the hands of the best I have this the book, people looking for an excuse, but also had to give you advice consultation. "every time read this, I laugh. Unexpectedly, it was really followed suit.
In that Dongshan top,
Bringing a rising moon.
Majiami (meaning never married bride) pretty face, and
Surfaced in my mind.
Meditation with the song love song, I Duojin Majiami. It is located in a street corner three-storey house, the walls of yellowish brown color, with black and white 2-color sketch girls face, this legend Lama wrote the popular "Majiemi" .
Early summer afternoon, because of SARS and the Bajiao Street renovation, the bar only four guests. On the second floor of the Central sofa, there are three reading chat, I sat down at the window table, watching scenery, drinking tea and writing postcards. They read aloud the "possession of land leather-covered books", including the previously mentioned dating tips, plans Medog walk the line, I can feel their eyes, but also to listen to a few mistakes, and finally did not participate in their discussions. Ho ho, friends, when the tips are also not working. I do not know how long before this trio got up and left, another group of people has just entered, wearing a red girl, said: "How long does your hair?"
"19-year-old."
, 19-year-old hair so long? Is just sitting on a sofa, he was one meter tall and about 9, and her hair hanging over his knees like the same waterfall. Alas! I do no pay attention.
He explained: "My hair and I like the big, long 19 years."
"19 years!" Question were issued amazing, I am also amazed heart.
J I would like to talk about seen and heard in the Majiami, we will deviate from Kathmandu. "I seem to have seen this man Jesus!" It turned out that she is the girl in question. This discovery, the time of our Chu Xiangyu 6 days earlier. On that day she looked at me several times, but not suppose we will have company with others. Affinity for self-will meet. Some people walked around us, some people entered our hearts.
I used sit back and wait method, the posts remain in Asia, auspicious days and Hachiro school message board, and then, who to contact. Min Yun presumably go, the piece of paper back in the dying wind and rain. Soon, through the SMS exchanges were confirmed to be C & A with the Nam Co Lake tour days. C will go abroad to study, thought it the wish of the plateau; A photography forum for a certain quite reputable, prawns, has eight degrees to Tibet it comes as a special trip to accompany them, so I have to marvel at. I promised friends tour of Nanjing, always strange combination of circumstances Cou not a common weekend, after six months to go, not to mention far-off Lhasa road! However, to find T sister I have contentment, without her, I could have enough courage to own Sheung? After returning from Nam Co, due to the different routes, C, A walk to find a companion Shannan, Xigaze. We meet again in Shanghai, they said after each miss, try to contact me again, peers, all messages have been sent a blind spot in the telecommunications network swallowed. What is surprising is that we visit Samye Monastery on the same day, they departed at noon, I arrived in the afternoon, at different times and missed. In August, A ninth Tibet by the Sichuan-Tibet Northern line. In September, C flew to England.
Give me the opportunity to encounter the use of the term, only well-deserved B, otherwise we will be true to pass by, always only a stranger, rich in dramatic scenes like in the Jokhang Temple have created an attractive top-sky Laxia like. Like a random encounter between people, is God grant me a good sample: Thank you and the friends met, pierce me go Yunnan-Tibet line, travel days, lake, visited Shannan, Sakata Qing wrong, Lower East Asia, on Everest, Nepal's desire to switch to write out the sections one after another exciting, interesting journey; to thank the driver encountered the master, your mastery of driving skills is a guarantee of peace; thanks met Tibetan compatriots, although I can not remember your the appearance of your smile and sincere warmth in my heart to leave imprint; thank worried about my friend, because no cell phone signal, Danba evaporation of the bad news and I worry that harm you; there my dear parents, you who do not want me riding the journey is full of unknowns, but expressed its full understanding of, no matter where go, there you were concerned about my eyes.
June 24, parting the occasion, in the Qinghai-Sichuan-Tibet Highway before the pictures of the monument. Look at one, look one on the way forward, Bajiao Street around the maze of alleys not've spent, Beijing East Road, has not visited the wood, such as Temple, Jokhang Temple and the gold-roofed sun drying not enough - I know that , I will definitely come back.
I belong to the slow response of the people, OK to Nepal, it tastes out of the love of Lhasa, but I can not find the right words to express their feelings in Lhasa, just can not write on the plateau of the yearning for nostalgia and tourism Mix fascination. 2003, the sun, Lhasa, those people, those things never have to leave.
Author: smileychen
