1, primers
A long time ago, there was a little boy, very fond of origami boats. After every rainstorm, the little boy will be overjoyed to hand him a small folded paper boats on the river in the rain to put together, watched it to drift far away, to stay in this little boy's eyes, it was his dreams, he dreams of freedom, a dream, like that little paper boats, like freedom of traveling the world.
Mix once said: let a man of bankruptcy, then send him an off-road vehicles. I think, that it is inspired out of his dream. That engine is like a dream, giving him power to guide the men to the distant break.
Do not go to Tibet, there have been a lot of dreams. In Tibet, but also generated a lot of dreams, one dream, that is, the Brahmaputra, which is a mysterious place, once in a dream, been called upon numerous times to hear where the original and profound Brahmaputra, I come, I would like to walk to Meet you, I want to fulfill my dream.
National Day holiday approaching, there are friends to go to Xinjiang, hiking, desire to join the defendant's so difficult I can not adapt. Heart it hard. Coincides with traveler sent to 2003 Ninth magazine, eager under the finish stretch. Tour Pack by that period of the Tibetan wild yak outdoor advertising clubs and Beijing is far outside the club's 11 golden bird holiday special trips to attract. Singled out two lines: cross-country adventure - walking Tangfangudao Brahmaputra in Tibet, and on foot.
Less patience, speed to power in Tibet yak club, linked to Wang Chung, asking the details. And e-mail wild yak and far-birds, their requests for information. Cheung Lai-wild yak and far Cheng Yang birds have responded to e-mail. By the telephone conversation with Zhang Li, warning the two lines is more stimulating challenge to the Brahmaputra on foot! Although the cost of up to 9,000 yuan, 4300 yuan plus round-trip ticket, my heart had never admitted defeat obstinacy encouraged me to pick the Brahmaputra this line.
Cha Tibetan wild yak club information, that:
[Information] in the Tibetan legend, the wild yak is the protector of the plateau. It is gentle, peaceful, while mighty staunch; it used to loneliness, not refused to cooperate; to survive in harsh environments, it is perseverance, persistence, strong resilience in the face of danger, it also fearless, courage ... ...
The world's highest cut down the middle of the river Brahmaputra the world's highest Himalayan mountains, forming the world's largest canyon --- Zangbo Grand Canyon, it is spectacular, strange, magnificent, beautiful, original, natural, clean, environment, unique resources, rich, unparalleled. Grand Canyon, one can not go, How can it be seen all this world's most magnificent mountains and rivers! We will select the Grand Canyon on foot into the best route, from Nyingchi County, Pai Lung Palestinian townships proceed along the east bank of the meandering Palongzangbu mountain overlooking the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon to reach the best place to horseshoe-shaped Da Guaiwan - za qu Village. This road will cut across Fujihashi, Liu Suo, cliffs Plank Road, deep valleys, jungles and rapids such as topography, very difficult, but it is definitely the best experience of your life.
◆ ◆ stroke
D1, Lhasa --- Basongco National Forest Park - 81
D2, 81 --- --- Pai Lung Lulanglinhai Pakistan townships (foot preparation)
D3, Pai Lung --- Yu-mei
D4, Yu-mei --- za qu
D5, za qu (trimmed) overlooking the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon U-shaped Da Guaiwan
D6, za qu --- Yu-mei
D7, Yu-Mei - Pai Lung --- 81
D8, Nyingchi giant Berlin --- 81 --- --- Direct Gongti Cardin Falls Temple
D9, straight Gong Ti Temple (see burial) --- Hot Springs --- Dezon Lhasa (San regiment)
Second, re-Tibet
9 / 9, his wife asked about the National Day of the JY trip, I want to go to Tibet on foot advertised. Noon, JY she was fond of calling advertised, I want her to think carefully about whether it would affect her post-graduate exam by the end of October. Tibet with me the idea of harassing her, Siyu with my peers has been determined and can not recover.
9 / 10, stocks have been the idea in mind, he felt as a person plus guide, maybe can also walk across the Brahmaputra, but also save money by night, on foot across a book in China Medog content, by its introduction of the A line and B line of the breathtaking deeply attracted to read the final, was Liusuo a bit frightened. Fear JY no guts, and asked whether JY also want to join them, it seems a bit hesitant. On balance, I feel JY To pass, or to participate in the club with the wild yak to the better. After reading, in the chapter found in this chapter to provide photographs of the individuals Chen Yang, decided to contact about the next day.
2003/9/28, take the 19:05 flight from Shanghai to Chengdu, the CA4520, 21:45 to reach the airport in Chengdu. Before he came here was in the vicinity of the airport hotel reservation of the room penetration, price 200 yuan and promised to come to the airport pick up, but no one raised placards after the plane, and good through the inquiries, hotels in the nearby within walking distance, line too about 7 minutes to reach the hotel.
Yak club because they have with the telephone, E-mail several times, also confirmed my registration, through the post prepaid in advance of 3,000 yuan, but the cut-off 9 / 28, arrived in Lhasa late, I do not know the exact arrangements for the trip after the hearts not at the end. Therefore, Wang Chung, manager and organizer of the evening were contacted again, the defendant has been in my book the room, the entire regiment together a total of 6-7 Staff Committee. Mind at ease a bit.
2003/9/29 morning 5:00 by his cell phone to set the alarm clock morning call, used right at your fingertips to simple breakfast, take the hotel shuttle to the airport and transfer to the aircraft at 7:30 to fly to Lhasa from Chengdu, 9:15 to Gonggar Airport in Lhasa.
Under the very aircraft, Li Xian Lhasa sky blue eyes. Because it is again to Lhasa, 3600 meters altitude airport location has not seemed like the last time the air comes particularly refreshing. Altitude sickness does not seem to feel as strong.
Aviation bus ride, 35 yuan tickets at 11:30 and arrive in the city air ticket. Wang Chung contact with the defendant has been in the wine for me electric set at No. 30, Jiangsu Road, Lhasa, Wolong National Bureau opposite the hotel. Taxi drivers on the road asked me why I live in such remote, of course, think that more and more cars coming out of downtown, and good little Lhasa, and afterwards to the town center on foot several times, but also did not feel particularly well, but the general backpacker tourists who like to concentrated in the vicinity of Beijing Road close to the Jokhang Temple several backpacker hostels only.
Namely, to reach the hotel around 12:00 to have 60 liters of the backpack before the weigh-off, 22kg. Check in procedures, the way backpack on the second floor, has felt very serious, dizziness, tightness, feeling sleepy, a little trembling hand to grasp some of which are not live to write. The Gonggar Airport Shihai that second visit to Tibet, it seems that altitude sickness will not be great, can not think of one to the hotel, altitude sickness has been on top, but also so powerful. Served immediately brought with heart-protecting musk pill, adduct 100-ning, Nuodikang, in order to prevent a cold, but also served day and night, 100-ning. Rhodiola is not enough, you must immediately go out to buy, and lunch. Jiangsu Road along the west and found that a drug point, according to staff recommendation, Rhodiola rosea, and the plateau-an oral granules taken together with the effects of the two is better, immediately purchased and immediately took the two Rhodiola Oral Liquid. For shortness of breath, chest tightness, they suggested that the effect of Danshen pill better than American ginseng, it also bought a box of Danshen pill, after all, bear in life.
Served Rhodiola, it seems to feel a little better, that is, to find the one person to open a small restaurant in Xinjiang, point a bowl of chicken soup noodles, the result will come up a bowl while eating, she is drowsy, feeling, or a move to palpitation, dizziness, and want to sleep.
After dinner, feeling no, quick return to the room, washed the plateau an Granules, sweet, and taste just fine. Dizziness come quickly, but also with a tremor, measuring the pulse, and 96 jump / min, no wonder feeling flustered, the original pulse at play. Your phone alarm clock set 5:30 pm, after they flew into sleep. Sleep has been feeling drowsy and the edge of Ma Ma's hands and feet.
5:00 pm wake up, pulse 85, feel better about myself a little.
Now want to come to the original JY counterparts, in order for her to adapt to, so in the future to advance the date possession of one day to 9 / 28, it is very correct, has given me one more day of self-cultivation to adjust, let me adapt to altitude sickness.
Hun Hun lying in bed watching TV inside the noisy show, 6:00 pm suddenly stopped electricity. Leaves in the wind outside the window, windy had. Heard that the minimum temperature is 8. C, added underwear libraries, thin Fleece, come up with to find a place to eat dinner. Scalp feels numb, I do not know the reasons for more than sleep, or altitude sickness is still trouble, the pulse back to 78, the obstruction of his chest heart area is also a vague line of it is walking slowly. That comes with Longjing tea drinking has doubled, taste aftertaste up again, followed the spirit of cheer. Only water to drink more, always on the toilet, toilet pumping function is broken, do not bother to heed them. Was about to go out, Hu Ting sounded the water splashed out of the window the sound of Lin Chuang a look, but it is played under the rain. Is power is raining, I do not know where to go can be Zuosa.
Ready, sat in the lobby for half an hour to study the map of Tibet and Lhasa. Finally decided to go out to dinner, go to the Barkhor.
Bajiao Street for tourists is a very rich Tibetan cultural characteristics of the goods street, but the reason was a Tibetan eye by turning the traditional way. Lhasa traditional turning of the road there are three: a small change along the Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street for the transit along the along the road as Lin Kuo-turn (10 km).
Lin Kuo Road, came along the path from the Barkhor, because 01/05 had come before, it is just a casual walk, walking too fast heart tears. Prior to passing through a vegetable to Barkhor Street, Shun Bianmai cucumber. And then along the Barkhor by turning left to start a walk route. Saw two shops, to buy a knives hanging at his waist, but too rough, do not buy into.
7:30 pm came around the Jokhang Temple hall door, dozens of people have already Wai set in the door, waiting for entry to visit the monks chanting. 7:00 is said to be open, but has not been opened. A Tibetan notices pasted on the door, and asked a local Tibetans, Gu Yue not open today, 30 days before opening. So we can only come back tomorrow.
In Lhasa, the Tibetan people like to Jokhang Temple, Barkhor area mainly known as the "Lhasa" in Tibetan is the Buddha meant. I stood in front of the Jokhang Monastery for a long time, watching pilgrims kowtowing moving scenes. Are old and small, well-dressed is also very dirty (mostly after a long way), both flutter was lying kowtow, the sacred inner feelings, regardless of their class.
[Information] the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, the center of the old city, around the Jokhang Temple is the street was initiated.
Jokhang Temple in the hearts of Tibetans status and no less than the Potala Palace, it is also the visitors to Tibet, one must visit attractions.
Jokhang Temple was built in AD 647, is Zao Songtsan Tibet to commemorate the Princess Wen Cheng was built on behalf of the repair, after the expansion, the formation of a large building complex. Temple construction area of 25100 square meters. More than 20 palaces. The main hall high four layers, lutetium bronze roof, brilliant spectacular, with the Tang Dynasty architectural style, but also drawing on architectural characteristics of Nepal and India. Basilica dedicated to the middle of Princess Wen Cheng brought from Chang'an Sakyamuni at the age of 12 life-sized gold-plated statue. Both sides of the wind-room worship Songtsan Gambo, Princess Wen Cheng and Nepalese Princess-foot statue statue.
Jokhang Temple is Tibet's major Buddhist activity. Dalai Lama to establish a "gandan Phodrang" regime, the "Kashag" government agencies will be located in the Temple, mainly concentrated in the top two floors surrounding the courtyard. A number of major political, religious activities, such as "Golden Urn" are all in here.
Jokhang Temple hall high four layers, the whole building roofs typical Han-style brackets. Towers, carved beams is the Tibetan style, the main hall 2, Yan Xia three rows of 103-volt animal carvings and Sphinx, but also showing features of the style of Nepal and India. Temple has a long nearly 1000 meters of the Tibetan murals (Tibet Figure Princess Wen Cheng) and "the construction of the Jokhang Temple map", as well as two of the defending God Ming embroidery Thangka, which is dedicated to the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, the Buddha of the esoteric of the two, for a rare art treasures.
In Lhasa, the Tibetan people will also like the Jokhang Temple in Barkhor area mainly known as the "Lhasa" in Tibetan means Buddha, you can see the pilgrims kowtowing in front of the Jokhang Temple, and the scene is very moving, by This shows people's minds, the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, the status of high, there are more people every day turning around the Jokhang Temple, Jokhang Temple in the vicinity of many of the monks are laid them out as posture, singing to passers by alms.
Then JY phone, I warned of severe altitude sickness in the afternoon, rapid heartbeat, but now much better, but eyes trance, is the Jokhang Temple worshipers feel the atmosphere of the door.
After they turn it down along the Barkhor, unconsciously around in a circle, vendors are beginning to pack up shop, ready to break city. I am also around the "Lhasa" in transit by road around the circle.
Back to the lunch or dinner in Xinjiang restaurant and food, then returned to the room of the ribs ramen. Wang Chung said he would come to send medicines, but also the future. Until 10:15 to come to the plateau and Sport had presented box (if you wait until it suits him that medicine box, I am afraid I have long Buxing Le). Pay the balance, retroactive agreement, he hurried away. He said that other people living in backpacker hostels.
He suggested that I buy a small backpack, because along the way there is back-fu back weight, they need a little back packaging paraphernalia. He suggested that I go to "frontier fortress vision", in the auspicious hotel opposite the big dragon is the boss, Tel: 6345589.
Shaanxi Normal University Press, out of the "China on foot across - mob, backpackers Gonglue map completely manual" has been introduced to make the Brahmaputra right foot, but is Medog for the end point, and its legislation for the first ten foot pole star .
9 / 30, could not sleep all night last night, while waking up, thinking of various scenarios on foot, while daze, his mind drowsy and very tired and heartbeat is a good point though, but the movements exert oneself points, or immediately panic on the jump, so today we must have a good rest to ensure a smooth start tomorrow.
Gloomy days out of the window is estimated that today is definitely going to rain.
Almost every part-time have to wake up, watch TV, there is sleep. By 9:00, they decided to get up, look in the mirror, his face Tuhui, eyes dim, I can not sleep all night, stomach brings a tide is very uncomfortable to drink milk and eat the cucumber, still the same.
Simple breakfast, get out of the Wolong Hotel, and soon came to Beijing East Road, went to the frontier fortress vision, first came to the door, Wang Yong said the 8:00 pm call in the sub-style hotel opposite the hotel team meetings Abdallah.
Frontier fortress vision backpack fewer species, are filled with dust, finally, a fancy, well above the rat footprints, asking price 280 yuan, at first glance feel worth, had to give up, I do not understand how could introduce Bai Wang Chung This store to me.
Go west, not far from there two competing third-most outdoor stores, bought a backpack at the first house, 120 yuan, a knife, 70 million (later broken foot when the artificial leather cap, and the knife given to Monba's back workers), have added in a quick-drying shirt, 90. Next door to a poor cosmetic stores say that they are the third most authentic third most outdoor sports stores, and neighbors lawsuit no avail, and now compete with each other to become each other will not listen.
Less than 1 Station Road, then west Asia is the hotel, opposite Abdallah style restaurant and lobby appearance look is full of Tibetan style and it looks clean, until the evening gathering a careful re-exploration.
Along Beijing East Road towards the direction of the Potala Palace, slowly all along the way there are several outdoor stores. In a corner shop called the modern outdoor entrance to a Jackets have to take the air functions, well suited to Lhasa, the current climate, with 230 RMB bargain once they bought, should be worth it.
After, right up to the Potala Palace, went to the Xinhua Bookstore, has felt intestines Lulu and lumbar acid, then transferred back to the Jokhang Temple in the vicinity of the incense Gera restaurants, the hotel courtyard at the auspicious day, their stores clean and tidy, there is a Tibetan-style the environment quite pleasant, and very suitable for my dinner taste. Spent mushroom soup + rice + vegetables. 2:30, eats dinner, by the way of curiosity Hotel backpacker who saw an auspicious message on the poster to find companions for each route are almost there, but as the Brahmaputra Grand Canyon did not go traveling companion. Therefore, he can go for this line added some sense of mystery.
8:00 pm, in the style on the second floor meeting Abdallah. The whole regiment a total of eight people, clubs, Wang Chung and the new Miss Ma Yan, archaeological teams from Beijing, Tibet Shao teacher (in his early 50s), and six tourists: Kunming, Dr Cheng (less than 50 years of age), Beijing Tong Network Wu, Takumi (30 teens), Shenzhen Zhao gun (37), Beijing PH repeater (30 years old) and I have. Repeating that he is the sixth to come to Tibet, Mrs. Carpenter fifth visits to Tibet, Zheng doctor and I are second visit to Tibet, Zhao gun first visit to Tibet, Shao teacher has worked in Tibet for a few months and is presided over Tibetan Shannan tomb excavation, this area would also like the way to go Monba see if there is the history of the relics left behind by human activities.
Wang Chung introduced the event's organizational processes and discipline, he said this line are yet to open the line, but they have good contacts and local county government will be good and ready to back with the husband, and do the approval. He stressed that this activity was not adventure, but the expedition of 400 thousand yuan per person per insured accident insurance (temporary departure, I was in Shanghai AIA has insured the 300,000 yuan accident insurance). Along the way there are many risky locations, there may be landslides, more courageous and is instead likely an accident, but because of the cautious and timid and safe. If the activity halfway landslides, may have to delay a day or two, let us mentally prepared, it is adventure activities, do not think the tour fare is paid to participate in tours, and along the way may be everyone is tired and in line with hands-on, with esprit de corps. In case of time delay, such as the grain tax cut, and every people need donated food private. This situation occurred in the last event before.
Wang Chung further stressed that if the event of an accident, such as injuries, there may be interrupted and activities, each person should have to sacrifice individual interests preparation. Activities, all our actions and captain Wang Chung. At the same time, he repeatedly asked on foot when the clothes do shut up measures to prevent leech off when the jungle, but must also have been psychologically prepared for leech bites.
His intervention, the people said Yilengyileng, and while emotionally eager for adventure, a moment of psychological nervous, and health to see what injuries, referring to leech that Chong Er, we only heard, can anyone have not really seen what the feeling of being bitten in the end, everyone waves of psychological tension and numb.
Shao captain look of bronze, full of outdoor work, branding, Wang Chung said that he was Tibetan King's Tomb of the organizers of the archaeological excavations. Shao said the captain of their own kind of wild foot This is the first time, he was pretty funny, has clamored to go to town to eat 81 chicken stone crucible. This is said to stone working crucible chicken special, very thick stone and do the special delicious flavor out of chicken soup. We say stop the flow of saliva, an increase of appetite, the Wang Chung-point wiped dishes.
An appointment tomorrow morning, 8:15, to pick, we Sanxi. Dr Cheng along the way and I bought a 1 dollar a pack of cigarettes (the most expensive) in order to leech through the jungle to use when hot. I also bought a small lock, because just a row of Wang Chung said Ryugo on foot, the back is why it is Moinba people, personality, uninhibited, but sometimes it will take something from the bag, so to buy a lock to click off.
Wang Chung repeatedly take care along the way to respect the Moinba porter, smile, or else they might do some little tricks to retaliate, he says, we are nervous.
22:30, and JY had a telephone conversation, public notice of the above, and warned of the phone two days after she said there may be no signal, ready for it. To the charge when the charge can not. So I should use the battery carried a camera.
Washed a bath, which is come to Tibet for the second time, ready to fall asleep. Today in Beijing on the road, then Mahone calls, next day 10 / 1 they are going to-San's house party, I warned him that I was one of the people in Lhasa, and let JY contact with him. JY said that they know that I have one in Tibet, very worried, let me go back as soon as possible. It appears that they, like ordinary people, little is known about the concept of Tibet.
Today, a stroll along Beijing Road, there are many hotels, including the Hachiro science, light industry, Asia hotels, auspicious days, especially in science and auspicious Hachiro, is backpacker's favorite place. Each passing of these two hotels, I have to turn into to go look at the poster on the sliver, different tourists stuck with a variety of tourist routes of seeking enlightenment, there is hiring, and it has been imposed for. There GG to find MM there are also some MM find GG's. In about one square meter board blending a variety of information, there is no race, hierarchy, interpersonal skills, to the most recent. I searched a few, have not found this line to the Brahmaputra is no wonder that the sixth repeat that he come to Tibet to find the Brahmaputra's mission is to be far from the birds through the Beijing friends come.
Dinner we chatted a few pieces of interesting happens, Zhao gun that yesterday saw the opening of a personal license, Jetta, Shenzhen, over, asked what is to come from the Sichuan-Tibet line, in the most advantageous place to allow trucks Tuozhao into Tibet. He added that it was not even opened today, 16 hours, from Bomi arrived in Lhasa. The last time when the Lhasa river, campfire grill, I heard that there are individuals to open off-road vehicles to cross the river, the flooded into the neck, quickly opened the door to escape, taking off his clothes in the river the sun and clothing, attracting numerous driving Car tourists vision.
Dr Cheng said the Tibet section of Sichuan-Tibet line often have car insurance road Fandiao, local residents saw a car Fanluo down, they go back, not to save (which may already Guitian, do not save), but Qu Jian car parts. Most of the local maintenance of vehicles spare parts from destroyed vehicles down Fanluo Jian Lai's.
The danger can be seen on the road.
Afternoon in the small streets, saw a Tibetan flag hanging in the plug, took a photo. See also one that others will build four-story building, looked into the structure of the room just like they should, but all small, all with granite precast panels with cement + storing. Tibetans like to do in the building vacated in the local hall can directly see the sky. Shows how the Tibetans worship of the gods.
3, ill-begotten
10 / 1, last night to sleep better, get up at 6:00 the morning, although it is sleepy, but a toilet, but also pondering over the matter last night together, make up some diaries, at the same time think about what other places need to adjust the backpack . Unconsciously has come to 7:00.
By the end of September, early October of Lhasa, the late dawn. 7:00 is still very dark. About 7:30, after the sky began to release light. 8:15 Team time to pick out the urban area of Lhasa, along the Lhasa River, Sichuan-Tibet Highway (318 National Highway) We have embarked on a line to the 81 towns.
[Information] the Lhasa River originates from the Mira mountain 5020 meters above sea level along the flow through Maizhokunggar County, Dazi, finally through the Lhasa City, in the southern outskirts of Lhasa to import the Brahmaputra.
Lhasa River is the mother river of Lhasa, the Lhasa great influence on the development of the Lhasa people be passionate about the river, and every weekend or holidays, hordes of Lhasa, or to drive or walk along the Lhasa River , valleys, catch a tent, or fishing, or playing in the water, or bathing, drinking butter tea, eating a variety of food brought from home and enjoy the brilliant sunshine and the leisurely and carefree mood in Lhasa, much like Han picnic. (The beauty of the Lhasa River photos See http://www. Dreams-travel. Com / mzl_xz / xz-ytjd / lin-zhi-ytjd-lashariver. Htm)
9:00 encountered some traffic congestion, 10:30 reached 4,000 meters above sea level, ways Mozhugongka. 11:15 Guo Milla Yamaguchi, elevation 5012 meters, stopping off to take pictures, not feel any particular altitude sickness. The first two days of rest for me is too much need and necessary. Mila Pass is the dividing line between the Lhasa area and Nyingchi Since then, the past is Linzhi of Yamaguchi. Nyingchi is Moinba, Lhoba and other ethnic minorities of the settlements.
Climbed over mountains, along the way down along the mountain, along the beautiful east move on Yanghe mud. Mud Yanghe sometimes broad, sometimes narrow, there have been jet washed from the mountains fall, the import mud Yanghe, with the sky color, when, when cloudy, sunny, mud is also sometimes Yanghe Sky Blue Lake green, sometimes changing colors, the mountains The vegetation growing rich, autumn season, the cash gradually leaves yellow, silhouetted against the lakes and mountains, and the camera can no longer use words to express. Racing quickly passing on the road emerging landslides. Make us feel waves, myself have gradually Health determined: This Sichuan-Tibet line, will one day come back to drive himself to savor.
[Information] mud Yanghe Milla originated in the snow-capped mountains 5020 meters above sea level, with the Lhasa River is different is that it is from another direction and runs counter to the Lhasa River, flowing through Gongbo'gyamda County, Nyingchi, and finally import the Brahmaputra in another direction, With the Brahmaputra and the final round of the Lhasa river flow convergence, it would be a small miracle it: originating from snow-capped mountains with a river flowing through the different directions the last one in the same meet, within a larger river, and this thanks to the Brahmaputra rivers U-turn.
Niyang is a tributary of the Brahmaputra, one of the five, also known as mother song.
Niyang the beautiful scenery, varied, one would be created out of the gorge, one would be opening up a plain, one would be flowing through the prairie, a Mercedes-Benz will be again in the mountains, when it flows into the town of Linzhi 81 and like a well-behaved little sheep, according to the will of the people flowing. . . (Mud Yanghe the beauty of See also:
http://www. dreams-travel. com / mzl_xz / xz-ytjd / lin-zhi-ytjd-niyangriver. htm)
Through mud Yanghe a sharp bends, the river there is a stone, the words engraved on pillars, stone side of the river are the mainstay of mud Yanghe, in this was to stay a little bit to shoot a photo.
Lu-yu, a team of worship in Tibetan, there is one person pushing a wooden handcart pulling all the pilgrims luggage, followed by six Tibetan is a step towards a flutter in the direction of prayer to Lhasa. Came up a question that they have already done a 6-month pilgrimage to Lhasa at least be a half months. Wang Yong said that there are a lot of people what the only solution in the Chao Zuo of China, Bank all over the world, fame spread. The Tibetans do not care what the immediate fame, but made the trip has been far more than those who only solution, they only move forward their own holy places. Consider also, this was evident among the great mundane. In contrast, even if the foot end the Brahmaputra, it is only a point in the ordinary spiritual experience, not worth showing off.
11:45 to loose more than driving a police check certificate, and warned in front slow down a bit. Sky with thin drizzle.
2:00 to Pakistan Changhe Town, in an open bar Sichuanese river fish hall for lunch, the shop did not exhaust fan, fume intrusion into their stores, our smoked shedding tears for everybody to flee. However, clear soup cooked ba special tasty, again we hook back to the table hungry, you drink the soup with tears.
3:00 from start to Bason wrong direction, along the Ba River to the Bason wrong, on the island stroll around in a circle, do not feel particularly good, it seems, and Linan Qingshan Lake is almost, in addition to water, a little more clear outside.
[Information] Bason measures known as measures of high lake, located in Lhasa to Nyingchi 318 State Road (Sichuan-Tibet Highway) on the left about 40 kilometers, the road good, can reach only about half an hour. With 318 national highway to Bason from measures of high-grade highways full access, Bason measures is becoming a rising star in Tibet is another tour in 2000 was named the national 4A-level scenic areas, identified in 2002 by Ministry of Forestry as state-level forest park.
Bason measures about 3,500 meters high above sea level, the lake area of 26 square kilometers, with an average depth of 60 meters, the lake another island, strange plants on the island, there is a nun temple, the temple a small incense-wang. (See photo Basongco http://www. Dreams-travel. Com / mzl_xz / xz-ytjd / lin-zhi-ytjd-basonglake. Htm)
4:30 Back to the car, heading for the direction of opening 81 to the town. Ba pass a bend, rapids emergence of Mangjiao driver to stop, look back a look, rainbow across the Ba River, against the background rush flow and ridge, a very beautiful, when everybody was screaming good,抢拍up. I remember years ago when 51 to come to Tibet, just visible as a rainbow in Lhasa, the midday sun hangs high in the sky, a ring round rainbow around the sun, silhouetted against a blue cloud during the day, looking like a paradise scenery. Said that Japan is lucky rainbow rainbow blessing for many years only appeared once, to see who will be fortunate to bring good luck.
6:30 to 81 towns, living Garden Hotel, and Zhao gun sharing. Along the way the arguments for the leech and landslides, making Zhao guns more and more of their own equipment, lack of confidence, so they accompanied him to the town purchasing some equipment. Bayi Town, the scale can also be surrounded by mounds around the streets quite a clean and decent stores such as mold, is on foot before the break, a good place to add equipment, and materials. Nyingchi can see this town is very good, and the impression that in 2001 more than I have seen some of Xigaze City, but also clean. Be able to see this outside of Lhasa, Tibet, the town, has felt little difference between the Mainland and the county seat.
Tibet Tour Web site is such a briefing about 81 town:
[Information] In fact, before the town is only 81 Nyingchi Nyingchi County, a town only, and Tibet is not much different from most other cities and towns, but with the troops stationed in Tibet in the area, a transit point for expanding and impact continuously strengthened, and then with Lhasa - Nyingchi high-grade highway fully open to traffic, especially along the coast of the mainland in recent years, provincial and municipal governments to support the full counterparts, so that the real has become the town of Nyingchi 81 Nyingchi Nyingchi County Administrative Office and the actual location, it has been developed Linzhi to become a modern city in Tibet, the full-featured, commercial prosperity, the immigrant population and the local people are fully blend of well-developed transport, tourism is also growing prosperity.
However, it is precisely because non-native population, better to make Nyingchi Bayi Town is gradually losing its own characteristics, Nyingchi town looks more like a county in Sichuan, rather than the county seat of Tibet, which also just as other cities in Tibet. (81 pictures of the town see http://www. Dreams-travel. Com / mzlxz / xz-ytjd / lin-zhi-city. Htm)
The hotel dining room in the garden run out of meals, we have six people forget the hard work tomorrow, before the advent of a World War II, six individuals playing 120 points, playing the inextricably not see the outcome, until 11:30 before reluctantly waved in preparation for tomorrow tent continuing to fight.
According to Wang Chung said that the road is more difficult to go tomorrow. Morning in groups of two vehicles, Shao captain riding in a blue Chevrolet sport utility vehicle, also hired a van. I repeat, Zhao gun sitting in his van. After the doors along the way咣grumble grumble咣ringing, condition good, oil burning also inadequate, only endured. Tomorrow incumbent, a sport utility vehicle is said to take the rocks road to Pai Lung. Pai Ryugo has been withdrawn, were merged. Tomorrow it could be lived in a row Ryugo Guest House site.
Dinner had asked Shao captain to tell us about the purpose of his current squad and we may be required to provide co-ordination. He said the main aim was to discover prehistoric remnants of human activities, such as pottery fragments, tiles and so on. If there is found, it would be a big gain. As for how to find, can only be introduced when the time while walking. Each of us to say that mystery, and could not find North, but each one again he can expect from this person away from the earth of the mountains of the valley Pirang find something for the teacher to make some contribution to Shao.
10 / 2,7:00 am to get up after a telephone conversation with the JY, advertised from today may have to enter the phone no signal zone, up to five days.
Along the way along the Sichuan-Tibet line over, starting from 81, to work towards the direction of Pai Lung. Guo Nyingchi County (worse than the 81 towns), climbed over 4700 meters of color Zillah Pass, at 11:00, when you reach the rouland, claims to Shambhala, standing on Sichuan-Tibet line look down, rouland The canyon is located in an open area, houses scattered in the lush hillside, but it also turned out to be a Shangri-la. Would like to continue to explore what was going on, due to time constraints, were dropped.
Looked for a Medog Ishinabe chicken restaurants, admiring, specifically point the Ishinabe chicken, the defendant's would have to wait an hour. Fortunately, the card last night, the Friends are still fighting and beginning again of 120 points last night. Ishinabe the origins of the walls. Described as follows:
[Information] Medog Ishinabe Department of the natural world, rare rocks, produced in the cold snow-covered area in northwest China, from magnesite, talc, snakes fine cotton stone, a coalition of black mica, and so on. The Chongqing Coal Geology Research Institute, Chongqing, health and epidemic prevention department tests and analysis, which contains the human body must be of silicon, magnesium, calcium, selenium, iron, nickel, zinc, etc. as many as 16 kinds of trace elements, but it does not contain any radioactive element and harmful substances.
This shows that this chicken in Taiwan. 12:00 client will be more then chicken out, everyone rushed to give up chopsticks taste, tsktsk praise non-stop, of course, well-deserved reputation. No wonder Shao teachers gathered in Lhasa when it Ishinabe clamored to eat chicken. Black stone pot, boil the chicken for so long, in the palm of your hand with the local participation, taste especially delicious, chicken stew Daoshi because too much time seemed a bit old.此土鸡的功力我在回到上海后才真正领教。在回程时我们又在鲁朗吃了一回手掌参石锅土鸡，大补了一会，以致我10/8回到上海后的第二天参加公司的集体体检，竟被查出从没有过的甘油三脂偏高，令我吃惊。后来细想一下，定是这石锅土鸡立的“功”。
12:40 吃完饭，又开始出发，从鲁朗到排龙这段路是这两天走的最差的路段。一路上摇摇晃晃，颠簸的厉害，不过倒是美美的睡了一觉。
上午过113-114道班时，司机指着一塌方处说这是今年6月塌的方，压塌了工棚，死了17个民工。
3:00pm我们这辆车首先到了排龙，这是一个只有10几户居民加一些外来人员的小镇，楼房空空，差不多都移民搬走了。乡政府院落很是落败，空无一人。我们一到那儿，一打听去雅鲁藏布江，村民就摇头，说是去不了，因为乡长已带了40几个小伙子一小时前刚赶往山里，抢修因下雨被塌方破坏的山路，因为10月10日林业局的干部要来，他们必须抢修好这段路。村民说起码要修20几天。
邵老师开着他的雪佛蓝，因为途中在几个景点停车拍照，晚到了20几分钟。他们听说了情况后，和我们一起面面相觑，众人脸上都露出为这意外的情况担忧的浓重神色。
作为此次徒步队长，关键时刻，旺涌已做出了反应，找了一个背夫，他决定连夜赶进山里，找到乡长，问明情况。因为没有了预定数量的背夫，我们的徒步计划就要泡汤。他召集我们说我们对外必须声称是来考察的，是西藏文物局开的介绍信（由于这层关系，结果后来背夫们，特别是小伙子，一路上不断的问候我们说“首长辛苦了！”，此是后话）。否则，乡政府是不会让我们进山的。有一伙广东驴友徒步了10几公里后被赶了出来。
大家帮着把旺涌整理好行囊，他说，如果当晚他赶的回来，就赶。否则可能在山里住，第二天让人出来带我们进山。
天色已开始黑将下来，众人都为他担心，毕竟前方的路对我们来说都是未知数，连旺涌自己也未曾走过这条线。留级看上去不声不响，这时抓拍起镜头，把这一场面一一摄入。
尽管担心，事到如今，也只能如此。作为组织者，旺涌挺身而出，单身进山解决问题，大家也只能接受这个方案，而且都不希望这次计划彻底泡汤。
旺涌走后，大家在门巴村民开的小卖部找到了住宿地。一个大间，旁边另有2个床的小间，正好够我们5男2女入住。大家把车上的东西卸下。呆坐在小卖部门口的长木椅上开始发呆，一脸无奈和担心，前途叵测。
赵枪呆了一长阵子后憋出了一句话：人在旅途，身不由己，随遇而安，听之任之。大家听了，精神霎时放松，各自抢着把大家的傻样拍下来。一切的担忧也渐渐遗忘。
随队的小新，个子小小的，青海人，据说曾去过新藏线，来藏已5年了。只要一开她的玩笑，她就脸红，却非常活泼可爱。她说前面20几米有一座吊桥，是刚才旺涌他们进入大峡谷的起点。我们听了，决定一块往前去看看。结果走了200多米才来到木桥。桥下不知名的河中河水奔涌着，比虎跳峡略小，拍了照，我独自往峡谷方向走去，步行了几百米，已是灌木密布，心里怕怕的，只得退了回来，留着明后天一同进去。
邵老师首当其冲，找了野地方便方便，回到小卖部，老板娘指着他的脸说有蚂蝗，众人眼睛刹时盯住他，一边暗自庆幸没有首先中彩，一边怕怕的关注着邵老师与蚂蝗“搏斗”的过程，为以后自己与蚂蝗交好运作准备。
晚饭我自告奋勇的掌勺，两位女将去洗菜，赵枪做伙头，管生火。大家七手八脚的凑合着做了二菜一汤，算是揭开了徒步雅鲁藏布江的序幕。大家带着前途叵测心情，到也把这顿饭吃的不亦乐乎。
8:00pm时， 一帮人叫嚷着从旺涌去的方向返回，是他带着一些年轻的背夫回来了。大家忙把他们迎接到小卖部的厅里（这厅其实是村民起居做饭的地方），旺涌已累的说不出话来，直到吃了我用剩菜剩饭做的热乎乎的泡饭才回过神来。
回过神来，旺涌开始讲述起他的经历。他说，他经过塌方区，找到了乡长，出示了西藏文物局介绍信，并说先前已和县长联系好了，乡长才勉强同意我们进山，但是只能明天走到哪算哪，一有危险就打道回府。旺涌再三关照我们对外要说是考察队的队员，以免乡长变卦。
留级此时提了两个的问题把旺涌和大家又拉回到严峻的现实面前：1) 这次是否看来到不了大峡谷？ 2)能否保证大家的安全？他的提醒很及时且有用，可是旺涌却无法做出明确的答复，并说这条线他自己也没走过，但有背夫做向导应该相对安全一带点。
留级反驳说，既然作为队长的旺涌也没有走过，那如何保证万一当天到不了露营地在何处过夜、及安全的问题。
众人一听留级似乎是要等一切安排妥当，万无一失的情况下才愿意完成徒步计划，大家都有点楞住了。本来我也以为这条线路是一条艰险但是确定的线路，现在却变的不确定了，似乎有点不甘心，有一种要继续闯的念头在心中涌动。除了留级，大多数人都偏向在保证安全的情况下去尝试一下，前途虽然叵测，但不尝试是无法知道具体情况和成功的机会。
在我的建议下，大家回到住的房间围绕着留级担心的问题、也是我们担心的问题展开了讨论。赵枪同意继续往前，邵老师说的较稳妥一些，说是要保证安全。我不太赞同留级的万事要十分稳妥才能行的态度，但又无法说服他。只得擅先自顾自理起行装。因为情况有变，多带的行李要留在雪佛蓝车上，徒步期间把车留在排龙乡政府。见我理起行装后，同伴们也各自纷纷的打点起行李，只是众人都默默的不啃声，气氛甚是压抑。留级见没人响应他，呆坐在自己的铺位上发愣。
明天带路的向导队长，是一个小年青，名字叫“救援”（后来第一天下午因不配合，被旺涌炒了鱿鱼），他过来解释了一些情况，说今天有两个工友被落石打了脚，陪同旺涌刚才进山的背夫、也即此小店的店主在回程时也歪了脚。虽然这样，如果明天走的快的话，是能到达目的地的。
一些背夫也来查看我们的行装，所有的行装的重量必须均衡，以保证每个背夫的负重差异不会太大。留级也开始不声不响的理起东西来。
大家把不同的物资精简了一下，加上8个人的行装，分成12个包，供12个背夫明天背驮。我的冲锋库冲锋衣太厚，问旺涌是否可以不带，他说还是带着好，可能会有用。
整理完毕，旺涌说了声累了，倒下便睡着了。显然，留级的意见搅得他心烦。外面漆黑一片，我陪伍匠开着头灯去了200米外原道班留下的住所用厕，还算干净。回到小店，老邵在等我们，一块在门口的长椅上坐下聊了起来，大家交流了一些看法。老邵说是男人总是要闯一下。他的话激起我心里的呼应，前途越是不确定，闯的意义才更大。同时我们也交换了一些对最坏情况的看法，万一进去后被后面发生的塌方封在里面怎么办？有这种可能性，必须做好这种准备，这是我们的一致看法。
我也表达了万一不顺，计划提前结束，我要赶回拉萨，去八郎学或其他背包客旅店找伴去其他线路，有可能要去珠峰大本营。
伍匠说他想去梅里雪山转山，从德钦昆明回北京。
老邵说他家里人12日要来拉萨，希望不要出现被塌方堵在山里的情况，到时接不了家人。
各人盘算着各自的应急计划，期盼着明天的来临。明天的天气怎样，会否继续下雨，决定着我们徒步雅鲁藏布江计划的命运。
四、柳暗花明
10/3，下了一整夜的雨。峡谷里，河水滔滔不绝。在夜里滔滔的河水发出的轰隆声整夜侵扰着耳膜。借宿的小店的顶棚被雨滴打的劈啪作响。老鼠不时在顶层的夹缝里咕隆隆忙碌着跑来跑去，有一个老鼠竟然跌落在我的睡袋上，用脚一踹，又咕隆隆从我的身上跳到地板上，我只能用睡袋的帽子遮住脸，生怕哪个老鼠又跌落在脸上亲热。
老鼠的忙碌声和屋外的下雨声，使得大家都无法入睡，但大家都没有吭声，心里却在想着今天的计划是否泡汤。
7：00am， 大家络续起床，只有留级继续睡觉，似乎他主意已定，退出徒步计划。我来到门口平台，与老邵又聊了起来。天空已渐渐亮了起来，雨却还在淅淅沥沥下个不停，一会儿大，一会儿小。
老邵问旺涌他有没有A计划，B计划之类的方案，供选择，旺涌不吭声。
我们都在盘算着下一步计划怎么办，是继续等下去，等一天后天放晴了再走，还是今天就宣布取消计划，作鸟兽散，各奔东西。邵老师说12日他必须去机场接人，所以时间上不能多耽搁。
门口的川藏线上有当地人背着竹篓走过，老邵问他这雨会不会停。这人说这样的雨在这里是家常便饭，根本算不上是雨。这说法立即在相互之间传开，觉得希望又在升起。如果这么大的雨在当地人眼里不算是雨，当地人可以走，那我们也可以走！
8：00am 过后，背夫络续来到，分配着行李和人，每个背夫都要背东西，其中8个人要指定人员，在关键时候照看我们。
留级已说他决定不去了，他一个人在这里等候从川藏线波密方向来的车搭车去八一镇或直接回拉萨。我们尽管为前途担忧，但有了去的希望，大家心情又愉快起来了。背夫们分配好任务，等到10:00pm时，云雾四起，村民说这表示天要放晴，我们正式开始出发。
伙伴们分别与留级握手告别，邵老师率先走在前面。议论起留级，觉得他是那种一切安排妥当，乘着飞机到目的地享受一下风景的白领，根本没有徒步的精神，他的退出使我们以后少了些拖后退的阻力。
五、徒步出发
背夫们吹着口哨，也轻松的上了路。大家经由昨日下午探过的吊桥，从小路出发，沿着河道旁乱石岗、草丛之中小路前进，徒步从10：00am正式开始，12：00时候到达其中一个背夫的姑妈家，背夫们叫喊了一声：累了！便不愿往前再走，要在该地吃饭。我们拗不过他们，也只得在草地上小心翼翼的找一块自以为没有蚂蝗的地方吃起便餐来了。大家一边吃饭，一边检查起蚂蝗，几乎人人都中弹，我的右脚袜口也发现了一条，正弓着身子准备钻进去，立刻用点燃的烟头烫掉。老邵最惨，觉得右小腿有点痒，撩起裤脚一看，一条蚂蝗已吸饱了血，掉落下来，小腿上显出二个手指大小的血迹斑痕，自此以后，一路上只要过草丛树林密布的小道，老邵就觉得身上痒痒的，害的我也神经兮兮，老是觉得身上发痒，连鞋里进了沙子，也觉得是蚂蝗钻了进去。
这一路上连续过了几个塌方处，众人心情非常紧张，相互照应着，查看着有没有落石滚下来。有两个塌方处更是险要，烂泥般的碎石斜坡，脚踩上去往下陷，坡下滔滔江水汹涌着往前翻滚冲刷着，万一失脚滚落到江里去，后果不堪设想。怪不得，旺涌曾在出发前说曾有一队驴友走这条线，其中一个男领队走到后来不想出来，精神崩溃。我现在才理解他话中的含义。这样无休止的走密林，闯塌方坡，精力的消耗太大，恐惧的心理又时时的笼罩着，对背夫们来说，已习惯了，对业余徒步者来说，却是一个莫大的耐力和意志力的考验。
在过一个泥浆塌方斜坡时，有一条沟的山石泥浆快速滑落，亏得一个背夫拉了我一把，跳了过去，否则，可能早已魂归滔滔江水。
下午2：00，来到峡谷边一些工棚处，是修路民工扎的营。旺涌坚持要求再走3个小时再扎营。但是背夫领队不愿再走，他们想在这工棚过夜。尽管旺涌说这是与乡长说好的，但他们根本不理睬。旺涌见工棚里有一个似乎是乡政府工作的，请他出面，给他看了批条，说我们不是来旅游的，而是来考察的必须赶时间，这伙背夫才又开始出发。
一路上又增添了一些往工地送物资的背夫，大家一起前行。原分配的指定背夫已经打乱。运输背夫也很友善，只要路遇险情，都会伸出救援之手，没有这些背夫的协助，很难想象光靠我们这些徒步者能十分安全的到达目的地，更难想象如果我们自己背着40斤的行装来徒步，那会是什么样的结果。
经过几座被激浪冲没的独木桥，众人还是一起前行。我的左膝盖，开始在走下坡路了时不听使唤。每走一步下坡路，膝盖就如抽筋一样。我想我的左膝可能已徒步到了极限，如果一直走下坡，肯定左脚会垮掉，无法保证明后天的徒步。这样想着，咬着牙坚持着。好在坡度一会儿上，一会儿下，一会儿平坦，不觉在4:00pm来到一片乱石和沙滩的混合地，几十个人等待休息着，原来前方已是民工工作的工地，背夫们一边大叫着：“放炮了”！一边撒腿快跑躲了起来。不远处传来开山放炮的声响，声声揪心，令人担心着这片原始森林的命运。
旺涌决定在此扎营，我终于挺了过来。郑医生，老邵也很坚强，挺到了最后。背夫、民工和我们大家一起乱七八糟的混合在一起，老邵说还是我来做菜，大家一起未等方便面煮出来，就迫不及待的开出鱼罐头，火腿肠吃将了起来。旺涌带了充气罐，用锅煮水泡方便面，用高压锅炖萝卜罐头猪肉汤。汤尽管不鲜美，吃得大家胀胀得直打饱嗝。伍匠连说连说这次回家肯定又胖了。
吃罢晚饭，小新收拾起锅饭盒，并在民工生起的篝火上烧起了开水。赵枪在篝火边烤起衣服，其他4人又打起80分。
等了一个小时，小新才在民工的帮助下两眼泪汪汪的烧开了开水。我用带来的龙井泡了一杯龙井茶，与赵枪对饮起来，喝得赵枪连连说享受享受，十足的的小资情调。
其他四人打完牌，大家一起围着篝火，在旺涌的带领下，唱起了“走进西藏”
，旺涌自告奋勇的唱起腾格尔的康巴情歌。喝完速溶咖啡，大家约好明早7:00起床，由旺涌做早饭后便钻入各自的帐篷。
10/4，7:00起床。昨晚半夜帐篷漏雨，害得我和赵枪在湿冷得帐篷里度过了半夜。半夜里，天下起了小雨，自认为躲在帐篷里应是安然无恙，可是睡着睡着，却发现头发开始湿湿的，好生奇怪。爬起来一检查，发现帐篷的边钉没有钉住，外帐和内帐粘在一起，雨水就渗了进来。真是太大意了，昨晚到了扎营地，让民工搭帐篷，忘了检查，害得半夜“尿”床。
今天一路连过了六个塌方区和两个溜索，筋疲力尽，在4:30pm时分达到玉梅村。我们7个人和两个民工在吊脚楼里的炉灶旁打地铺，一只狗和一个小猪在房内和铺盖上到处闲逛。看到狗头上有一条蚂蝗钉着，晃悠着，内心升起一种莫明的抗拒心情，不愿睡在这种恶劣的条件下，我情愿更贴近大自然，像昨晚一样，在河滩上扎营。这种抗拒的心情忍耐着，直到晚上大家一起讨论明后天的行程时我才表达出来。旺涌坚持在明天一定要赶到扎曲，在后天要赶回到第一扎营地。请想想，我们一路上徒步的这么辛苦，化了三天的时间从第一扎营地赶到扎曲，回程却要在两天内在体力消耗这么大的情况下走完，光有意志力，可能精力和体力也维持不了。所以，我坚持表达了不同意他们的方案。
10/5， 雨。
又是7:00am起床，准备去扎曲，9:30出发，一路只有一、二个塌方，没有昨天那么险，但是一路上走了很多上坡，筋疲力尽。到后来，除了小新押后外，我不得不拉在最后，亏得伍匠在前，走三步，停一下，使我还可以休息。每休息一次，都用手杖撑着，人全身几乎扑在手杖上，乘机休息，想要闭眼蓄聚精力，可是手杖在压力下不停的摇晃，让人担心倒下而不得不继续往前。
这一段去扎曲的路，简直是蚂蝗灾难区。每个人都经受了蚂蝗的疯狂袭击。下过雨的丛林，树叶湿湿的，几乎在每片叶子上都有无数条蚂蝗在摇晃，伺机向路人袭来。我们各人每走几步，都心里恐惧万分的停了下来，查看衣服，裤腿，及鞋上，总可以找到无数条蚂蝗已吸在上面。每个人都用最严密的封口方法将所有的衣袖领口包扎起来，结果还是会在勃子上，背上，甚至就在嘴层上发现蚂蝗钉咬着，搞的每个人神经兮兮的，到后来差不多都麻木时，已都顾不得蚂蝗是否在上身。我只觉得背上有东西，到了营地脱了衣服让同伴一查，果然一条蚂蝗吸足了血，叮在那里，衬衣上一片血迹。其他队友更惨，脸颊上，腕口，等都被吸的血迹斑斑，都是在蚂蝗吸血的时候硬生生的撕拉下来造成的。
下午2:30时候终于到达扎曲，带领的向导队长家住该村，临到时，背夫们摘下田里的黄瓜，在石头上一磕，给了我一段，几乎使筋疲力尽的我顿时精神爽快起来，一边狼吞虎咽地啃着黄瓜，一边向扎曲村冲刺，一边嚷嚷着喊：黄瓜还有吗！
邵队长已在村长家换好衣服等我们，向我们叫唤着：大家快检查蚂蝗。我已顾不得蚂蝗，又要了一根黄瓜边边削边啃，爽声连连。吃完才拖着疲惫地双腿，开始检查蚂蝗，背上的蚂蝗被楸了出来。
到扎曲前，已看到波密小峡谷。此时，邵队长等已跃跃跃动地要去看雅鲁藏布大峡谷。邵队长出去探了探，回来说起雾了。
旺涌催着要先做饭。在队长家，旺涌用炉灶做了汤：白菜＋午餐肉，等我炒了豆荚加午餐肉时，饭已做好了：碎玉米加小米，做得夹生的，难于下咽，终究没有全部吃完。
自开始徒步起，每天只有上面进，没有下面出。吃完饭，旺涌让我一块去外面“出”去，走过泥泞的小路，来到一个牛棚，三头牛看着我们这些陌生人要进去，不明来意。牛棚的另一头有一个方石台，上面挂有铜牌，用汉藏文标示着，表示着大峡谷的所在。旺涌面对大峡谷，背靠纪念牌，等着一块石头上，痛快淋漓地“出”了一回，结果刚站起来，喊爽时，一头黑猪冲了过来，把他“出“得东西啃吃精光，看得令人发笑，也把我的“出”意吓了回去，令人难受。
之后，我们集中了队员，出去找观看大峡谷的最佳位置，令人遗憾的是大峡谷的最弯处被茂密的丛林灌木挡住，我们只能将就着一一留影及拍集体照，亏得他们带了几个大广角，能把大峡谷的二边都能收入镜头，留作纪念。
昨天是最险要的一天。今天是最筋疲力尽的的一天。三天的徒步终于到达大峡谷。当我们看到大峡谷时，并没有那种期待的激动人心的激情，而只是那种经过磨难的心情和一阵到达目的地快感。
到达大峡谷似乎并不能说明什么东西，到达之前地种种危难险情，对意志力地考验，我们耐力的表现似乎成为徒步的整个过程。伍匠说：徒步过大峡谷，其他什么徒步也不想去了。邵队长说：到了大峡谷才算是真真的男人。我们都知道他的话所指的刘吉，但旺涌说可以理解刘吉的做法，即使他跟来，徒步中途也回提出更多的异意。
拍完照，轻松的回到住的民居，大家烤火聊天，与门巴老乡一起围着炉火拍照，门巴老乡很好客，我们继续我们的牌局，他们凑在旁边，帮助烧水烤玉米，抓牌，还送来青稞酒，喝得旺涌打牌打到一半时，头晕晕得早早就睡。
这一路从八一镇开始，我、老邵、赵枪与旺涌、郑医生、伍匠对手打120分，打到今天10:00pm还未打完一局。
明天就要启程返回，我祝愿大家能平平安安的返回，自己也能坚持充分发挥耐力，走完回程，胜利在向我们招手。
也希望明天出发时天能放晴，能看到南迦巴瓦山峰。
10/6，晚上12:00已过，我独自一人在篝火旁烤着衣服，准备明天最后冲刺用。回想今天的历程，原本以为不可能，却没想到硬是挺了过来。在玉梅村时，还和领队争论说这一天要从扎曲赶回第一宿营地（是我们去程的两天路程），身体状况肯定不行，可现在我们已回到了第一宿营地在烤篝火，却是实实在在的。
今天早晨7:00起来，9:00出发后先去了另一个眺望雅鲁藏布大峡谷的景点，一路上泥泞不堪，最后从一个烂泥遍地的猪圈里穿过，旺涌照样兴致勃勃的冲在前面，可是大家却叫苦连天，还好这一景点使得大家能拍些佳境作些补偿．
早晨天放晴，今天使第一天晴天，南迦巴瓦山随着云雾散去，渐渐得露出它的神秘的峰尖，而加里帕里的主峰及它的姐妹峰却在晨光的照耀下闪着银光．
在这难得的晴空，我们向着朝着昨天最后冲刺让人筋疲力尽的山坡出发，由于使下坡，大家都走的很快，不久便来到蚂蝗丛林．由于昨天的经历，大家已不在神经兮兮的怕蚂蝗，只是时时的检查裤腿和鞋，信手抓起蚂蝗，把软软的蚂蝗躯体揉搓几下，用手指弹了出去．走过蚂蝗丛林一检查,还是再胸口发现一条吸足血的蚂蝗,其他人也个个中弹,尽管像昨天一样,用胶带纸将裤腿，袖口封扎起来，却还是在意想不到的地方找到蚂蝗，简直无缝不入。
翻过几个塌方区，下午1:30赶回到玉梅村，经过1个小时的休整和简单的午饭,2:30pm又向第一宿营地进发．在通过几个一、二百米的塌方区时，尽管还是腿脚不健，需要民工的协助，但是心里那种害怕的恐惧已不如昨天，从某种角度讲，这也是一种听天由命和运气，只能靠着自己的体力按自己的步伐来走。如果正好被滚落下来的石头打着，那也是天夙。中午休息时，村长给我们看了他上午被拳头大的石头砸伤的右肩，淤血斑斑。我们不被打到，平安穿过塌方区，算是万幸。
接下来的路已不是那么可怕，只是走回头路而已。通过2个溜索，门巴青年们争着要抢拍照片，个个在溜索上竟相表演滑溜索技巧，甚是可爱．只可惜我的充电电池早就耗完，买的一次性电池拍不了几张便无用了。在过第二次溜索时只得对表现欲极强的门巴小伙们连说抱歉。最可爱之处是每次拍完后，这些门巴青年会争先恐后地抢过数码相机来看拍的景象，有时人头挤挤的竟把端着相机的我的头也挤了出去！
下午6:30过后，终于回到了第一扎营地，搭帐篷的搭帐篷，做饭的做饭。喝着咖啡，品着龙井，继续在篝火边打完我们的120分，直到11:30pm。
此时此刻，皎洁的月光在二座山峰之间照耀着，慢慢地由南往西移走，天空中繁星点点，滔滔江水永不回头地勇往直前。队友们已安然入睡，为明天地最后冲刺休整。我在篝火边记下今天的经历。快灭的篝火，不时发出哔噗的声响。烟雾随着风向不时熏着我的眼睛，害得我不时变换着坐得方向。用沙子盖灭所有的灰烬，避免入帐后余灰被风吹起，死灰复燃冲向帐篷。
就此入睡，迎接明天。
六、走出峡谷
10/7，晴，早晨9：00从第一扎营地多茨出发，下午2:00赶到原出发地排龙，途中已习惯来路时的那种危险艰难，只是心情随着越来越沉重的脚步而变得越来越依依不舍，5天的徒步，脚步随着野牦牛的领队旺涌来回赶，除了晚上扎营，再也没有在中途悠闲地享受欣赏大峡谷地美景，所以在走出离别过程中，依恋之情越来越浓，寻找着机会再亲情大峡谷，到波涛拍岸的河边让浪滔冲湿衣服，面对滔滔江水在礁石上静卧小憩，在吊桥上静静躺着，仰望天空的蓝天白云，静听身下滔滔江水的呼唤，呼吸着大峡谷的生气，身心与大峡谷交融，一切的艰难困苦都随之化为大峡谷的生气和灵魂，有什么样的人生艰难还不能面对？
最令人依依不舍的是走出大峡谷前的最后15分钟，随着大峡谷越来越远去，进入密林小道返回到出发时的吊桥，来到了川臧线公路，返回客栈，与民工们泪眼相望的告别，这种感情一直延续着，延续到车返回到鲁朗石锅鸡店。气温已下降到10度，穿着湿湿漉漉的冲锋衣和快干衣，喝着热乎乎的石锅鸡汤，听着随带的MP3播放的经典乐曲《爱的罗漫史》，在有力钢琴和弦旋律伴奏下，那每一声清脆的吉他拨弦，声声扣动了我那受过艰难磨练的心，内心油然而升一种爱的渴望，热泪不禁夺眶而出。爱的罗漫史听过无数次，但从没有过像离别大峡谷所听的感悟那样深，原来爱可以是这么广泛，这么深沉，这么执着！包括对人、对自然、对生命的渴望，对执着的追求，对艰难险情的挑战等等。这一切中都充满着深深的爱，而且在磨难之中体味着爱之浪漫的丰富多彩。
大峡谷，你是我生命中的一部分，我的灵魂已与你心心相印。
旅行的真谛也许不在与拥有多少个“到此一游”，重要的是，能短暂的告别熟悉的日常生活，体验一下“生活在别处”。虽然我们的生存总是为一定的疆界所囿，但旅行却能拓展这种疆界，我们的生命将由此得到延伸。 （携程走中国）
徒步旅行，不但能拓展自己的生活疆域，更能向自己的能力挑战。徒步雅鲁藏布大峡谷，更是一种向自己能力的极限挑战。胜利并安全地徒步到达雅鲁藏布大峡谷，更让人珍惜生命，更清谈日常生活工作中的一切纷争，更让人激起向新的目标进发，如有机会，我一定要完成驾车川藏线-新臧线这条及富挑战性的路线，如有机会，我要向珠峰进发，不管能否成功登顶。
作者：gejohn
