Would like to use this literature to Beijing girl Ling, dedicated to all the Medog been or will be going to Medog people, dedicated to all the User!
Part into Medog
In order to save time, I take a break from Lhasa Xiaoling "Dongfeng" trucks, Hou Xiang on bumpy night, on June 12 in the slightly cool breeze in the morning to reach 81 counties. Ling in Lhasa at the time, I know. The girl from Beijing, 23-year-old last year, had just graduated from art school, this time alone to Tibet, the Ling heard that I'm going to Medog, she said he also wanted to go, and hope that two people with me together with me. Ling looks very beautiful, the kind of delicate and pretty girls with personality. To be honest, I was not very much hope that she Medog to go with me, because I am a quiet person, a person traveling alone is always at the same time that Needing You, together with action is too inconvenient, although I am right on the road possible scenarios to be prepared, but I still feel not sure.
I am prepared to go the route from the village were turned dogxung pull snow-capped mountains, after rugby, Khan, after close to Medog through 80K, 113K, turn Galong La snow-capped mountains to the Bomi. We can not delay more than 81 counties. June 13, after getting up early and we set off, my backpack full of 40 kilograms, Ling is almost the weight of the package. Are essential equipment, tents, sleeping bags, dry rations and so on. Morning we arrived with tents, sleeping bags Medog in 81 offices, car full of supplies, there are more than 10 individuals have been squeezed in the car, and we up after sitting on a pile of bags of flour on the set out. Township along the Brahmaputra to reach camp.
Send Township is a small village. Here as "barracks" arranged like the wooden house there are many, it is trading in and out of Medog materials. From the shop owner, where we learned: There is a military vehicle early tomorrow morning and transported supplies and porter to go into the saddle in their car ride away, 18 km north, reaching a place called Pine mouth, where a car can reach the last one station, from here can only Yiping their feet forward to Medog. We are here to do the last purchase, raincoats, canned food, leggings, cigarettes, fortified biscuits, instant noodles and so on.
Evening, we walk visitors have arrived here do have characteristics of the village is on a steep downhill in the darkness, a flashlight beam sweeping the teams to shoot to go, it is nervously preparing for the trip the next day to buy instant noodles, and buy canned, buy clothes leggings, and an endless stream. There are also two dance halls, a Luxiang Ting, coarse defended by the generators of the DISCO in a strong voice of blending music, perform a symphony cause unrest, and many migrant workers, the influx of dance halls, greedily staring at TV screen Western girls crazy on the dance then, suddenly smoke everywhere inside the ballroom. Commissary here a lot, a little candle, a little gas lamps, and also use fluorescent lamps, and not far from the night markets, the variety of food stalls waft the slightest smoke, showing the vitality here, several outdoor clothing shop open almost all night , where truth is the video of some border areas of Thailand and Cambodia, a small village. Here we bought each of the two long green leggings (15 million) and a pair of long-help Jiefang Xie (25 million), specifically for anti-leech and use, but also buy some canned food and supplies of sugar to complement the road.
6:00 am wake up, we sit down at a 10-wheeled vehicles to pass, the car loaded with packets of materials that have been playing more than 30 porter tightly packed together, there are arched compartment above the iron columns, but no hood, I stood on the car after the car the middle of a big bag on the body lean, the more people the more there are a few people crowded around me, and constantly someone energetically stepped my feet, I hasten to foot lifted to her surprise, the lifting will no longer Xiabu Qu, and following all the feet, I would not even stricken the home had to move up, a short while I stood tall on the package of materials, However, these packages are also filled with people, and some porter would not let me tread package, I bow clutch-type iron posts, the car a shock, the whole body on the swing. Part of the car door sitting Palestinian people, they are also transported supplies for the bridges, and Ling Soon Ling also pushed succeeded feet do not stick to climbing iron posts, and packets have no place, and she squeezed, but others, I just could not experience, the best location is squeezed out, and later Ling's feet finally found the end result, she relaxed arm strength, tread it down, alas! She should know, that was my foot ah, to tread on the step on it, blame the poor. After half an hour a broken car stopped before the stone before it is surging surging of the Brahmaputra, River 1 root waving the white Jinfan wind. A plateau known as the Navy's forces ferry 'Mount Everest on the 1st' carrying us through huang tao-rolling surface of the river, in the warm sun and the cold wind blowing gently in towards the other side.
After a river, cars continue to move open to the hillside, the military stopped, I put Xiaoling hold off, then they unload our backpacks. We will lay a solid snow pack up to a multi-hung pull embarked. We have to climb the Himalayas at an elevation of 4221 meters of multi-male La Pass, crossing over more into the male pull snow-capped mountains is the only way Medog, multi-male La Pass the highest elevation of 4221 meters, snow is not based, even if the Yamaguchi is also a snow-capped in the summer, only 4 months a year where the snow does not close off the mountains. Climb dogxung la mountain, must be crossed before 13:00 the day pass, because the general afternoon will be the weather changes, once the weather changes, the Peak will immediately fog cloud cover around, hit by snowstorms, even if very much at the old porter also easy to lose direction and dangerous. The next night, we must reach the Inn Rugby.
We began to climb, and the road ahead in the absence of a gentle slope and Pinggu, where the mountain is very steep, rocks piled into the front of the cliff-Song pulling into the sky, the narrow winding gravel roads to steep risks. Turned a few Hill Road, looked up hope when I thought a while numb, dumbfounded. Multi-male and Latin America as a whole is a steep slope a large glass mirror, white brush of a, how can that up?
Looked up, a vast multi-male La mist-shrouded mountains, visibility is very low, eyes, leaving only a string of messy footprints. Is in this mountain, the summer of 1985, for scientific expedition back apparatus 5 fighters, all without exception in his own blood shed here; the summer of 1987, military sub-district organizations, more than 800 horses mule convoys , there are 94 animals in a fall on a mountain gorge, the grass in the skeleton, the bones between rocks, often chilling, chilling. In this iceberg peaks before the power of nature was too strong, and harsh and fickle climate, harsh geographical environment, people's power appears to be fragile and tiny, human survival would be a great threat.
Not help me think, let's go, an hour later, Hill suddenly become narrow and steep, steep slope of a sudden up pieces of rock sizes, high-low a piece of land covering the one-meter wide road on the cover side of the road plants disappeared, trickle seeping from the cliff top slot inside, covered with a sheet rock wall, a string along the rock fall. I own and find a bamboo stick all Xiaoling, a step by step, leaning on it hard to move. And then go up, the grass gradually rare, is the angular rocks at the foot of the mountain ash black rocks exposed convex ferocious, sharp-line clouds in the mountain crevices detailed from time to time the snow falls like silk under the float. Continuous non-stop uphill makes the legs become extremely heavy, the pace more and more soft, I just feel whole body weakness, mechanically moved up step by step, to go.
To reach the pass, it must be crossing a steep snow slope even more. At this time wet clothes and backpacks are the mountain tops, straight plays into our body, bone-chilling. We must bypass the snow slope, there is no road, only to explore the road, a step forward, cautiously walking in this snow-covered rocks. Weather changes very fast, just a clear sky is also torn Piaoqi snow, the wind kept blowing, in case the snow slope on the slip, it will slide into deep trough. Am looking for someone ask for directions. But the whole big mountain but do not see anyone, I carefully observed the up and down the snow slope enough for half an hour, fortunately, even saw footprints in the slope, which is the door Pakistan had recently gone through the traces, but India fossa deep, it may be a lot of people repeat the Cai Chu's.
More and more thick snow, and every step very difficult. To secure the support of crutches, specifically looking for places where there is snow pit walk crawling upward Chuanzhuo atmosphere, almost Peak, the weather was cold, the snow on the Dudong That's good, to avoid stepping on floating snow stuck to. Guo snow slope We spent a lot of energy, but was finally passed safely.
A step by step along the hilltop, increasingly heavy breathing, heart rate is also faster and faster, approaching Yamaguchi, temperatures suddenly plunged, Speranskia tuberculata the cold hit from all directions, we came to a world of ice and snow, the sky dark, thick cloud straight down on top of the head seems to reach out to touch, snow falling hail tucked down. Ling wrapped in raincoats, one hand leaning on a bamboo stick, the other hand has always been tightly held my hand. Front is wrapped in the mist of the numerous mountains, the road junction with a layer of ice Pu Pu. Then clothes and backpacks have been soaked, wind very large, through the Pass, when there are at least 89 wind power, every other words are hardly a few meters away could not hear. Mountain breeze straight times into our body, bone-chilling, teeth trembled violently, frozen and trembling, cold blades cut the same face.
Yamaguchi suddenly become open up along the road on both sides there were many large and small Mani Dui, section after section of a bamboo surround the roots of white Jin Fan, prominently stands. I would not attend to catch their breath and raised his head-the East find hope. More than 7700 meters high above sea level, such as giant General Tingzhao Namjagbarwa chest boast of snowy, color of the clouds at the peaks around his waist; more than 6000 meters high above sea level of multi-male La Mountain supports the weight of a thick layer of snow , winding ups and downs.
Finally at 13:00 o'clock we turned a number of male pull snow-capped mountains. Ling and I were busy taking pictures here, but dare not stop here a long time, followed by the next mountain, like under the steep stairs, step there is more than one foot gap between the numerous silver ripple of snow seems like pouring down from the top , we sometimes Rotary rocks down, and sometimes jump stream by. Dazzling white glaciers around the issue of white light, making people feel bursts of cold, the sky gradually fades in the clouds, rain and snow are also smaller, a bunch of sun exposure through the Pu-yun down, the sky seemed to be turned fine on the.
Walked down the hill, the sky under the snow turned into rain, the air has become less cold. Hill, Yang side is a dense pine forest. Here, nearly 2,700 meters above sea level, humid climate and low winter temperatures are suitable for the growth of coniferous forests. Here forest protection well, there are many tall trees is surrounded by a few people do not add the ground is covered with a thick layer of pine cones and pine needles. For nearly two hours, we reached the ditch in front walked into a deep valley. Exposed in the mountain became a Red Chu, Hill suddenly turned into a lush and elegant long red carpet, rugged land extended to the distance, a large number of iron and other minerals containing silt will be washed with rain falls, precipitation in streams between the dyed a sparkling stream, forming Tao luxuriant green valley between a red. Road covered with soft sand of the big as a millstone round slippery stones, all stones are attached to a layer of green moss.
Out of the forest, and reappeared an open terrain, far from day reddening, and red of the Yunxia burning. Slopes, green grass, tall. . We walked along the mountain to the valley, open valley of wild flowers in full bloom, and clouds of Silver Falls, a camel in the rock upside down between the passing breeze gently released into the atmosphere with elegant fragrance, rocks the step to the Hill Road collection of sewage sludge everywhere. Have emerged on both sides of the road abandoned wooden house, the dark Shi Lei estates and traces of felled trees. In the afterglow of the setting sun shine, this piece has been open to the setting sun reddened. When we looked around, clouds sky, as was the twilight of sunset light. Looking back behind, multi-male Butler has retired their distance.
17:00 pm arrived at Rugby, began to appear in front of a pine forest, under a large sunset stroll, surrounded us. Rugby is a geographical term, only two makeshift wooden door inside a Palestinian youth, here is a small shop and easy Inn. The sky dimming, I hovered in the vicinity looking for camping, in about 300 meters away from the cottage there is a waterfall, waterfall bottom there is a flat above a few blackened stones and a pile of firewood. I gathered materials, the tent where the tower, take out boxes heat water for cooking, wood moisture, smoke billowing, Ling and down mouth blowing, although confused canopy in the first dirt surface, but the fire burned attributes actually enjoy the more-wang, I breathable backpack out canned and rice, Xiaoling to help I will be poured into a pot of rice, boiled rice, burned cans, Ling and I sat by the fire, stir the fire, listening to the side waterfall sound experience primitive life. Ling did not bring tents, had two people with me by the one-man tents, which is too small, two people can not fully lie down to sleep, I can only Beikaozhaobei Ling sleep, tents very JANSEN, everywhere air leakage, so bone-chilling, Ling not help to my side of the shrinkage. I incline was lying, there is no sleep, listen to the waterfall sound, gradually warm the body around it by suction. In fact, this person I have very traditional ideas, the first time such a young girl huddled together to sleep, feeling very awkward and can not fast asleep.
The next day to arrive the next stop Khan dense, the number of kilometers from here, I do not know, only know to arrive before dark. Morning, I cooked up two bags of instant noodles, a bowl of one of my Xiaoling, drink hot water, continued on our way, go all day, under the mountain, on either side of the road is the original trees, many trees die of old age for his own, the coarse The trunk had been moldy, natural split, exposing the tree yellow and white belly. Almost all of the trees, including tree trunks and branches were all Lvtai wrapped, gloomy, I was walking along the mountain side, the body is that of the other side of the towering canyon, as has been down, the body's center of gravity all pressure in the legs, knees and calf pain was so severe.
The morning the sun came out, white-smoke-filled forest in the trees, the clouds (actually closer to call it fog) floating in the sky, the silence occasionally heard the bird several more crisp. Surrounded by a green world, and occasionally there are a lot of yellow leaves, red leaves against the background phase, coupled with falling water curtain mountains constitute a beauty is a picture. I remember Ling said: If what modern dance can be used here, yellow, red, green, white, spatial scale figures woven into the arena stage clothing or background, will be how beautiful a landscape ah.
Road is difficult to go, at the foot sink into mud and the stiff stone groove, which fills the mud and leaf mold, one foot stuck in mud or go inside, or run into hard stone, the liberation of shoes I wear a very thin, combined with the next mountain, Ge and get settled before I always have to look at pulling heart. Fortunately, Ling is a high-state wear shoes.
The atmosphere of the forest has always been a wonderful mystery novel and unfamiliar, the curtain of green leaves as big as a stubborn child grow from the cliff, over mountains Long vine tightly wrapped around thick tree covered with moss, the flowers on the bare unknown smoke a little on the light green of the tree, and some gauze-like green rattan plant, weaving a dense forest of strange and eerie original.
Road is becoming rotten, forest airtight, extremely hot, walk through the temperate coniferous broad-leaved mixed forest in the mountains, sometimes rain and sometimes a cloud, but when the streaks of light.
Late eight more. Our mud Road along the rugged and slowly walked inside potholes scattered with piles bovine and sheep bones, there are a few cold hard leather heap together. In a wooden front of the house, empty cans and empty bottles piled in one place. In front of all the Jing De terrible. Elevation gradually lowered, the trunk highway is bare branches rattan sticks covered with leaf mold lost the path.
Blink of an eye on the dark days of the. Ruozai some more slowly, dark mountain would be impossible, and can only camping spot, it may disaster. Take a look at the time, exactly 21 o'clock, the western sky was black than the mainland later, about ten o'clock in the evening to be a genius to do the black.
"No, Once it was dark in deep forests of the beast too much, would be very dangerous," I saw a mud-stained feet and looked around the dark jungle, it seems that both felt a cold was spy on us the green light, dark in the boundless forests become abnormal horror, I Mohe have experienced the ice and snow of the Daxing'anling wolf powerful. What is the distance the dark one could not see, How many pieces alone at the night sky the stars twinkled, the valley is quiet, and hear the heartbeat and the only bang cold breeze swept the slight tremor treetops sound, I almost lost proceed along the confidence, and felt as if the wrong path.
Ling and I sat under a tree Taikoudakou to breathing heavily. Suddenly the forest not far away, a few dark and the guys together Tantoutannao. I am very alert to stand up, then threw to a flying stone, Hu Chi soon as a few guys sprang wild ravine ran toward the forest, like wild dogs, like wolves.
We also turned over a few hills, a mountain in the emergence of a few light at the waist, and then moving forward, lurches violently to the present there is a village, I know that today we are saved.
Khan arrived in the night we close, here and, like rugby, is a wood Inn, Moinba the most simple of a few broken shed on the ride here, in the Peak of a metal and wood Jigen-breaking tie-up plastic shed, we have found a small place to shelter. A gang of back wage has already asleep, there are several in the fire side Kaohuo. Today, no tent, we live in the inn, due to fatigue Ling quickly fell asleep. I was almost upright on to the bed, the leg pain may have been unable to play bends, because the whole body aching from top to bottom, every other burst would have a change in posture, fine-tuning. That night, I had almost no sleep the night, she slept next to me was special incense. I always stare at her sleeping look.
The next morning we get up at 6:00, cook two packages of instant noodles to eat on the road, and then walk for two hours, the world is starting to rain and I Ling wore rain pants gore-tax for the rain, but also with plastic sheeting around her neck on the block live in backpacks and body, the former with adhesive tape to form a cone marching in the rain barrel.
11:00 to reach a fork in the road, where there is flow down from the hills of the streams, Ling bending water, did not expect the camera neck strap loosening, the camera suddenly fell into a creek, I hurriedly grabbed have been late, automatic lens can no longer be opened, and I was blowing another rejection of water, or not open, press the shutter also do not go over, how do photography? I said, pity and finally Ling back with a plastic bag wrapped in bag.
There are two fork Road, one is to baibung the liberation of the bridge, one is to that East Village and the county seat, and I opened the map of studies about it, decided to take the second Road. At this time, we finally realized the difficulty of the road two days ago, although the foot ishikoshi stream, cross-vine wood drill, but after all, faintly at the foot of a rut, and now go to that East Road, nothing, only the mountains and forests, top of the head is heavy rain, we began to climb, and Shouzhua ivy, foot wet stone and mud, a move step by step, here are plants into an abyss, in many places had to climb up the stone with your fingers wet Kouzhao go hand fingertips so painful that there is no perception of, in addition to mountain climbing, and sometimes like a crab on the lever on the hillside, like a stone, foot Chienshih move around, if one foot Caikong, or hand-pull the stone loose living, it will slide into the cliff, the certain death.
Good high mountain, ah, not a two-hour climb to the summit, the rise of boundless days, were living in the dense foliage blocked the rain under the brawl, and we who are charged with a heavy backpack, long sweat Lin Lin, and clothes all wet, and a screw on the water, shoes are also filled with mud and water, a walk on the "Puchi, Puchi" ground ring. Outside, the rain, which is a sweat, very uncomfortable, and no wonder the locals simply do not Chuanyu Yi, wearing it is.
Climbed a mountain they got into the clouds of the vast woodlands, mountain become wet mud, stone is not so much earlier, and a huge dead trees fell into disorder enclosed dark jungle, like a heap in the mud hill seat on the ground with rotting leaves withered branches, and the Millennium quit the mud mixed together.
Leaves on the grass all Leeches, 10 minutes the legs have more than 10, thanks to a spring, not yet big Leech (Leech summer have fingers as big), I pulled out from time to time to stop and leggings and shoes on their hands The Leech, bar the leggings, it is not drilled into the shoes, but it has been climbing, which way is forward somersaults, one will be able to turn 20mm, soon to the waist, and no one tie tie waist, Leech see sew on the hard drilling, believe it or bite on the waist on one, this guy up after the bite, can secrete a kind of narcotic drugs, people who do not feel pain, and it can absorb the equivalent of 10 times his body's blood, blood meal, and make them can not pull out of it, because it's mouth has barb, greater and greater pain, smoking and perfect after the blood, it also secrete a heparin, wounds will not be condensing, blood should flow a little while This thing is a mollusk, pinch, pinch, drag, shoot Dunong die it, only by fire.
Finally reached the summit, my legs have become numb, and stand here and can already see the roar of the Brahmaputra, and I looked across a small village, one kilometer away from here, but the distance, but to get there but first downhill, and then detour and climb mountains, go around here, there is no two-hour Forget that too there.
Just to be out of this hilltop village, there was a more than 60-year-old woman standing in middle of the road barefoot, and her mouth, "creak, creak, creak," barking, Shen Zheshou to intercept us, from the expression of view, it is very enthusiastic and very eager to look, next to her house and the yard is also a lot of people standing. We guess she wanted us to her house to drink, Ling said, "People here are nice to customers." I suddenly thought of the door before the local Palestinian people have heard of a tradition, that is poison to others, because they think it has the identity talented poisoned, after the deceased during his lifetime of fortune can be transferred to their own homes because of their traditional consciousness. I am reminded of a horrific poison memba! Taken aback and lay reminders Ling brisk walking, but that the door is still followed by our Palestinian woman, barefoot, dancing, courtyard there are still so many people are waiting and watching, I am really worried about not walk. Ling and I am passionate side to her talking back, while Bop, and finally in a large stone while the old woman stopped, still shouting at us with, we go out very far, very far back and looked , you can also see that gate Palestinian woman stood waving to us from across the entrance to the village. I still can not understand what the old woman What does that mean? Is it true hospitality and invited us to drink and not thoroughly poisonous snakes?
Successive climbed over a few Road ridge, we reached the ditch. Here, the valley appeared to be very open, very smooth road ahead, we are going very fast. The way we have also encountered a few who are granted in sheep's clothing, clothing, waist insert knife in hand the long hair bow and arrow hunters.
The weather dark gradually down the dense woods pouring rain, I am deeply shallow kick kick Chuaizhao mechanical earth with stones and mud, every step, knees, spreading Zuanxin in crevices bone pain, calf also As cramp-like pain Ling Zhugenmugun, persist in the behind with the move, a sudden, the road sideways a Zhai Men, black wet black wet, Zhai Men's side was the top die, in Zhai Men's side have a thick wooden frame in the door, wood carved with an ax above, a number of slots, and this is a simple ladder, hands and feet to pull the tread groove we have turned the past. Rain and tired, we stopped to rest Ling sitting in a dried tree fallen pole rest, suddenly I saw a lot of climb Ling T-shirt black leech, I am Ling yelled: "Fast to stand up, there are Leeches! ", Ling busy to stand up, but Ling's shirt already climbed to 78, and a good Hyun! Climbed almost neck, it seems forced to take off clothes, Ling took off his shirt, exposing a white shoulder, I Beiguo Shen go, to help her put all the clothes on the Leech removed. After that, that is, No matter how tired I am, and Ling did not dare sit down.
The sky was dark, the front is a debris flow landslide block off this avenue, we have been to the other side of river. Water very rapid, we have to find a period of slow flow at the river, stepping on the river stones, wading river. Climbed half way up mountains, and we walked along the Road to the river valley downstream. Ling took my Yibubuxiang went before,
We are in the rain and fog, the then climbed a ridge, fog has gradually fades, the sky is still raining, as well as the last 5 kilometers, I really want to go crazy, and I do not know what they are doing and watch it like hell Road, only sigh, in addition to a free can. The world has ceased to exist, the only way to move the complex mechanical movement. At this point I think if someone small pushes me one, I would have fallen never get up. From time to time I come back to look at Ling, Ling walking very difficult, it seems like me uncomfortable, but along the way she will always be a fearless expression, never reveal frustration. What a sensible girl, thought.
7:00 in the evening, and finally reached the then East Village, there are twenty or thirty families, the villagers depend on kinds of corn, wheat, chicken feet for a living and raise a number of valley pigs, cows and other livestock. As being located in forest areas, where the house is all dark wood do three or four feet from the ground, surrounded by a dozen wooden pillars supporting the roots up and down two floors. The upper occupied and storage, low-level raise livestock, the following space has also Shuanzhao cattle, houses have been black, is a classic of the original villages, the arrival of strangers, so that is almost isolated stir up the quiet village, the villagers out of curiosity, all pouring from their homes watch the fun. Even the dog barks more than reason, have not seen the children were frightened strangers crying mother's arms straight drill, a time of boiling up a small village.
We stay at this family man called the bazaar, this is an area of about 100 square meters of Mulou, there are 1.2 meters off the ground, construction on hill slopes, two children were a pre-Tsuishine Muban Fang, wood Chung is about one meter long, about the middle of two small sized coarse, Sheng m is the hollowed out wooden blocks, kids wood with both hands clenched Chung Central, high lift, and then smashed down to, repeated dozens of times before the hull out. I walked outside the house with dark wooden staircase on the floor, through a small hallway, turning left into the principal room, due to smoky and no electricity, the room light is dark, decoration is also very simple, a woman is being Mamba cooking on the floor, I was wondering, in the wood burning on the floor, how can such a big fire?
Room no lights, no candles, lit the stove on a few small pieces of pine oil for lighting and sitting next to bazaar, from time to time to add pine, Chinese pine burning very vigorously, is also brighter than the candles. Stove next to the hanging bamboo used tools such as wine, the room very warm, and I took off his coat and shoes, and a butt ton son sitting on kitchen before Kaohuo, ankle, knee pain, open leggings, 2 only the feet were shoes and water, simmer white foam was swollen swollen white. Pull up pants look, God, the legs are all blood, there are several blood-sucking leech leg still do, I counted a total of eight, leggings Zadeh Yanyanshishi, they are how come it? Bazaar a lot of experience to use with a hot stick of Mars Leech my legs, so painful that I Ziyaliezui, leech out, turning the blood to flow, Leech secrete a heparin, wounds will not heal, finally, I disinfected with alcohol, paste the sores can be attached. Similarly, Ling's legs have also been stung a few Leech was blood DC.
Mamba's home there is no water, and entertain guests all rice wine and spirits, everyone has a set of home brewing bamboo tools, Moinba people do not drink tea water habit, every day drink a lot of rice wine, wine is lead by the corn, and the slopes around the village can be kinds of corn and vegetables. Some people heard that day to drink here, 30 kg of rice wine. The evening meal, the door Palestinian woman gave us warm rice wine, pour a large cup, Didao my hands, although I have door Palestinians are wary of wine, but good to see her eyes, I drank it, not to mention the the way is a living death, drank no harm! Here I learned a lot of doors Pakistani language, first learned of the sentence says, "will, Amu啦, Amish about her." Means "leg pain, ah, I Tengsi啦" This phrase I will remember a lifetime.
I drank a few glasses of rice wine, an hour later, clothes and shoes all done, the door Palestinian woman with a similar casserole black slot gave us rice, I come up with canned food, but also with the local vegetable stew up a pot of very hot dishes. I ate three bowls of dried rice and canned vegetables on the hot meat, and well fed. Speaking of tomorrow night will be able to reach the county seat, and the relieved a lot of heart, but the door Palestinian woman told me that tomorrow is the hardest way to go, to go Leech Hill, leech more.
Ling night and I slept on the floor, outside, with heavy rain, but warm, dry room. Suddenly it felt close to her felt she lay on his side, close to the body on its own, and my heart a sense of happiness wane, Yi Gu. This feeling gorgeous legs is Itai-itai, the body is warm, the heart is the itch, the feeling is that the exciting moment.
The next morning wash the outside still raining, the roof on the shed Mulou water were introduced in a Mu Cao years, and then flow to the stairs outside the house next to a big wooden tub, their home life is to use rain water for rice.
After breakfast, I and Ling with the rain hit the road. Under the multi-mountain walk through the mountain streams, roads slippery difficult, arduous journey that day the road is difficult to go all the gravel roads to the jungle, and only 1 ~ 2 meters wide and slippery after the rain is more difficult to use. Next on the morning we had a weed, the experience of the circuit 50 meters long and a width of 1 m, on the left is an abyss, the right side is a precipice. From time to time stones rolled down from the top of the hill, we have to keep the dodge.
11:00, stopped in front of a cliff avenue of our road is a rock dug out of the cliff path, over 700 meters long way to gossamer camel hanging Yashang above is Qingsa waterfall, the abyss is under Brahmaputra River, the riverbed blocked by dense woods, only hear the surging waves, dug the road is extremely narrow lane is a person vulnerable to danger.
As the attached heavy rain, where mud-rock flow occurred in the Peak of rocks and soil over a period of time on the water with silt washed down by a group of rumbling, how should I do? I said it must be washed in the past, the use of intermittent debris a few minutes. Awful, ah! To his way through the more than 100 meters of dirt road, easier said than done, at the foot of all the activities of smooth stones and mud呀. Ling asked: "If come the middle of the Peak stones washed down in advance how they do? Not yet been crushed to death?" I said: "Only in this way, and later on, let me rush, you wait again after the second batch of rocks washed down." I lead the charge, in fact, I was the first time the way to go here, I was actually off the mark, but also a number of cattle the size of the rocks rolled down, I looked up the hill, make sure that all the fall, and then quickly walked to the opposite of those big stones rush, stumble, fall Jiyu, good! Was finally passed. Children after a pause, the second batch of stones rolling down, with bottom of my heart, hub of the past, the time is still more than enough, and I look at Duval stability of the heart, rushed into the legs, from time to time from the stone skew to the mud , I then forced out of running, Ling suddenly heard screaming: "Hurry up, the stone down." ears at the same time alarming news came that the roar, looked up and, ah, ah! Stone has been rolled into the hillside, and I have 10 meters away from the safety zone distance, I am deeply shallow kick kick to life to fight mad rush, legs are not lame, and I only know that the stone rolled toward me, I was only know that gallop things one step, waiting for the final kick cross into the safe area, on a television-sized rock in the distance behind me, passing on one meter under the smoke-filled moments rolled into the Brahmaputra go, and splash mud from the date of hit me a reel. True Hyun ah, my paralysis, sitting on the floor panting haste, there Landelihui legs of those Leech.
We ate some dry food, but also set out. Toward the downstream walking trail in the valley on the right bank of the Mid-slope, the slope is very steep, very narrow road, only twenty to thirty centimeters wide, and he is a shepherd Road. I helped Xiaoling the upward climb, almost hand clutching rocks and roots to climb. In some places, steep slope slippery, I have only my first climbed up, put down a rope, then pull up Ling. Foot on the muddy road is very slippery, careless would fall. Brahmaputra in our left side, thick fog obscured the deep bottomless and can only hear the sound of the river's roar. Each step must be very careful, if the slide down, you have only to play the Medog.
We climb the right bank of a mountain. To the Brahmaputra rivers and bamboo bridge, the mountain height of about 3, 400 meters, almost vertically. Up on the hilltop, you can see the Brahmaputra, we descend along the steep slopes of the mountain, and went about 2 hours, the front not any way, and I looked around, only the drill vine grass, to climb. Next on our vine grass, and reached a hill, where the mountains have also been heavy rain washed away, and is different is that here all mud mountains, there is no stone, after the rain ran through already Wong nudity.
That we have in recent days, bamboo bridge collapse by 5 base pairs of the fear of landslides enable us to slide through each one when they take extra care. Above sea level continues to decrease, the way downhill more. Sometimes could not help but quickly run up, as there is a driving force, prompting you to go downhill, side, mountain side bottomless ravine, pay no attention to control is very easy to roll down the valley.
由于小路上有层稀泥，非常滑，我们行走的速度较慢，尽管非常小心，我们还是不断有人摔跤，浑身上下粘满了泥水。接连翻过三四个山梁，我们又爬上一座山坡，在左侧远处，隐隐传来阵阵的流水声，我们以为就要接近天竹桥了，小玲便欣喜的冲下山坡，我落在了小玲的后面。这个山坡较陡，只能侧着身体向下走，山坡上缓下陡，真要滑下去，不到坡底肯定停不下来，下面就是密林覆盖的悬崖，崖底是白色烟雾笼罩的雅鲁藏布江，一不小心就会跌进峡谷，掉入江中。到了中间，随着坡度变陡，走在后面的我突然看见前面小玲左脚下的石块一滑，我的心揪了起来，她背着包的身体向一边倾斜跌到后就开始向下面的悬崖滑去了，此时一切发生的太快了，我想冲上去抓住她，但已经晚了。小玲身背40斤重的背包，她身体轻，背包重,小玲背包连人一齐急速下驶，我只听到她尖叫一声，人已掉入悬崖，“喂，喂，小玲....”我站在山坡上大叫，回应我的只有咆哮的江水和哗哗的雨声。
无论如何，我也要下去，我要找她，我把背包拴紧，下到悬崖边上，然后，我手紧紧抓着地面，小心翼翼地向悬崖峭壁下爬去，我一边小心地向下爬去，一边发疯地大喊：“喂，喂，小玲，小玲..”
天色阴暗，在凄凉的秋风中，在瓢泼大雨里，我一阵心酸，极度莫名的难受和恐惧感觉袭击我全身，也不知这样向下爬了多远，就在我快要绝望的时侯，忽然我听到了下面有微弱的回音，她一定是挂在树上了，一定是的，我把背包丢在一边，找一根木棍拨开下面的树叶树枝，啊！一棵大树丫刚好挡住了小玲，她距离上面约有4米左右，怎么办？我忙解开绑腿，把两根绑带接在一起，有6米多长，我又连叫几声，小玲回应了一下，我问她摔伤了吗？听到她说：“先休息一会儿。”我告诉她一定要坚持住，把背包丢掉，我马上用绑带拉她上来，她回答说不能丢背包。
又过了10分钟，我在绑带上拴了一块石头慢慢系了下去，小玲接到了绑带，艰难地卸下背包，用绑带拴牢，我感到绳子抖了几下，听到一声：“好了”，透过树叶间隙，依稀可以看到背包已经拴好了，我就开始向上拉，中间拌住了几个树枝，我先缓一缓，然后用力一提，终于把背包拉了上来。我脚下的土石有些松动，忙换了个落脚点，在脚下又垫上几块木头，我把绑带又丢了下去，这一次是拉人，我大声叫着，让小玲把自己拴牢，很久之后，我听到下面叫了一声：“好了”，我小心地向上拉，终于，小玲安全落地了，她很有办法，象日本象扑手那样，用绑带把自己臀部拴住，双手还一直紧紧抓住绑带，她浑身是黄泥巴，满脸是泥水并渗着几道血迹，上了岸，小玲一句话也不说，面色刷白，目光呆滞，她看起来是多么无助啊！我看着小玲脸上痛苦的表情，难过地对小玲说道，“想哭的话就哭出来吧”。我以为她会大哭一场的，但她没有。 “没事。很快就会好的，别担心”，小玲忍着痛楚笑了一下回答道。我尽量控制着自己的感情，可眼眶还是一阵灼热，双眼热乎乎的。伸出手臂紧紧地把她抱在怀里，小玲的手和脸冻得冰凉，她的脸颊贴着我的耳边，靠得那么近，让我清楚地感觉到她每一次沉重的喘息和起伏搏动的心跳。很久很久，小玲趋于平静，
我把小玲扶到路旁，替小玲解下绑腿，费力地脱下鞋子，卷起裤脚。我的手忽然停了下来。眼前露出了小玲惨不忍睹的小腿，血肉模糊地沾在了一起，血水顺着脚落在地上。我忽然觉得自己不知道该干什么好了。我从背包里找出消毒水和云南白药，我裹上棉棒，倒上消毒水，轻轻地清除伤口处淤积的污垢，然后开始对伤口进行消毒处理，消毒水的迅速收缩会使伤口产生剧烈疼痛。我看到疼痛使小玲猛的收缩了一下，小玲忍着穿心的剧痛，抬起头来朝我笑了笑，接着撒上云南白药，覆上纱垫，最后用胶布固定。包扎好伤口，我又取出两粒先锋6号让小玲吃下。
我拿出一袋巧克力给她吃，以补充体内热量。接着我们开始收拾腿上的蚂蟥了，比昨天的还多，拉起裤筒，腿上血水一片，血泊中侵泡着一些蚂蟥，我一条一条地拉扯着，扯不下来，就同时点燃几支香烟烫，烫着蚂蟥也同时烫着我腿上的肉，皮肤上冒着烟，不知是香烟的烟还是烧肉的烟。我们重新扎牢绑腿，继续赶路。我把小玲的背包也要过来背上，80斤的东西象泰山一般重，我感到两条腿已经不属于自己的了，只有从骨头缝里传来的刺痛，才使我意识到还有腿脚存在。小玲一条腿已经瘸了，稍微动一下，就会产生钻心的疼痛，我也有点虚脱。小玲一路咬着牙，紧皱着眉头，还是坚持走在后面，大约10分钟左右我们就得站着休息一会，不能坐在地上休息，一坐下来，腿就会慢慢恢复知觉，一恢复知觉就疼得要命，所以是千万不能坐下的。我砍下一枝树藤作木杖，让小玲柱着以减轻脚的疼痛。很多时候我根本无法相扶，小玲只能自己一步一个脚印地前行。还有28公里的山路等着我们，脚下这条崎岖的小路，曲曲折折，反反复复，好象永远走不到尽头。我不时地回过头来看看小玲，却无法停下脚步来凝视身后这位步履维难蹒跚前移的姑娘，只感到眼眶盈盈。我觉得自己好象开始喜欢她了。
终于到达了天竹桥（也叫藤网桥）了，就象大渡河上的铁索桥一样，这座桥长约200米，只有两根大拇指粗细的钢索分系在江两岸，用竹子皮围成一个高约1.5米椭圆，缠绕在两根铁丝上，人踩着竹皮过去。我上了桥，就如同进了一个网状的颤颤抖抖弯弯曲曲的圆笼子里，有些地方竹皮已经绽开，露出大窟窿，走在上面，一颠一簸的，越到中间摇晃得越厉害，令人心惊肉跳的，我真担心发锈的铁丝会突然断掉，跌入咆哮的雅鲁藏布江里。走在摇晃的吊桥上，谷风强劲，吊桥被吹得丝丝作响，如荡秋千，摇摇欲坠。由于在桥上我不能扶她，小玲几乎是爬着过桥的。
爬过天竹桥，小玲要回了她的背包，我们开始爬岩，江的这边全是大岩石，上面有角有棱，不用担心会滑下来，但绝不可以向下看，一看就头晕，下面是滚滚的雅鲁藏布江和坚硬的大青石板。
过桥后是一段很长的上坡路，穿梭在松林之中，小路曲曲折折，上下坡很多，绵绵的细雨变成了瓢泼大雨劈头盖脸地倾倒下来，小玲深一脚浅一脚的步履变得勉勉强强，踉踉跄跄，山路实在是太窄太陡，前进更加艰难。我们在一块可避雨的石崖下休息了一会儿，又顶着大雨，踏着深渊向墨脱走去。我们又走了近三个小时，在雅江的一个拐弯处透过雨雾，终于隐约看见了对面山顶一个竖立的铁塔，这就是墨脱县电视台发射塔。
晚上历经磨难终于到达墨脱县城,晚上住在县政府的招待所， 房间里面又湿又潮， 放下行李,脱下肮脏的衣裤扔到盆里泡着，捕捉蚂蟥，用凉水冲洗全身，换上唯一还干爽的迷彩裤，然后和小玲出去吃饭，小玲也换上的一套干衣服，我和小玲胡乱地吃了点东西，此时小玲显得非常疲累，面色苍白，她告诉我现在她脚痛得十分严重。饭后我们回到房间，挂在天花板上那盏散发橘红色光芒的灯泡微微地摇动着，我帮她用热水泡了泡肿胀的脚，又取出两粒先锋6号让小玲吃下。小玲很快钻进了里面那张床的被子里，我也钻进了被窝想睡，可是被子里外都湿得发粘，根本无法入睡，窗外的大雨还在哗哗下着。就要快睡着了，突然小玲轻轻地说道：“我现在腿疼得很难受。”我忙转过脸向着她，轻声问道：“怎么了，没事吧。”小玲哼了几声，说：我帮她盖好被子安慰她，但我实在也没什么办法。
沉默了一会，小玲脸上的表情很特别也很认真,轻声说：“你过来抱住我，好吗。”我探过身去抱住她，她也搂住了我，她的头枕在我怀里，我就这样抱着她，小玲比刚才好受一些了，借助外面的光，我看到她低垂诱人的短发，她双眼微闭，露出长长的睫毛，此时不禁蒙生出想吻她的念头，但控制住了自己没有做。这时小玲突然睁开眼，温柔地看着我说：“你说，如果我们能永远象现在这样多好啊”。我不敢正视她的目光，只是低下头，我没回答，接着是一阵长时间的沉默，小玲发出一声轻轻的叹息，又闭上了双眼，眼角里流出了晶莹的泪珠。
一夜没有睡好觉，清晨醒来，我的头还有些沉。走出房，这时天出奇的好，竟然有蓝天显现，又挂上了几缕薄薄的云彩。这种天气在墨脱并不多见。墨脱坐落在雅鲁藏布江边一座不高的山顶平台上，被田地、树木包围着。其实墨脱没有县城，县城只是一个称谓而已，或者说是政府办公地地方，这里只有几十个房屋零落在山坡上而已。
第二天小玲的腿没有昨天那么痛了，可仍旧肿胀的厉害，我开始外出觅食了，有三个外地人在卖牦牛肉，17元/斤，我打算买肉煮汤给小玲花补一补，于是我买下了2斤瘦肉回到招待所，回来时看见我看见小玲正抱着大盆在正午的阳光下洗衣服，她把我昨天脱下的泥衣也全部拿去洗了，有点不好意思。我到招待所的一间烧火房，我把水添上，加上佐料，放进去肉块，生起了柴火。足足炖了一下午，牦牛肉已经煮熟，我打开锅盖，晚上，我和小玲吃上了喷香的牛肉喝上了可口的肉汤了，还喝了自带的3两白酒。
在墨脱休息了三天,小玲的腿伤也基本好了.我扶着小玲上街去邮局给家里打电话。路上看见一个漂亮文静的藏族小姑娘坐在路边一家商店的柜台上晃着脑袋低声地唱着歌，一副悠然自得的模样。小玲走上前和她和蔼的打招呼。小姑娘没有说话，带着满脸的稚气笑的清新悦耳，一缕头发顽皮地从额角滑落，脖子上的那串松耳石把整个脸映衬的无暇而可爱。此时小玲的嘴角挂着微笑似乎已经忘记了腿上的伤痛，又变回了原来那个快乐的姑娘。
下篇走出雪山
第四天，我们离开墨脱,沿嘎龙藏布江继续向波密行进，中间要翻越海拔4500米的嘎隆拉山。中午达到108K,这是从波密进入墨脱县的公路终结点，有村庄，村里有小卖铺、住宿点、录像厅等，我们短暂的休息一下，顺便补充一些能量。
更让我想不到的是，此地还可以住宿，小玲说“如果我们今天不到到80K该多好，那我就可以停下来在这里美美的睡上一觉了”。可是没有如果，小玲还得和我一起向前走。离开村子好长一段距离，小玲还在回头向它投去我留恋的目光。晚上到达80K,虽然从80K处便有了公路，但我知道在这个季节不会有汽车经过这里，如果有我一定会想尽一切办法让小玲搭便车离开这里，而不再经历后面的磨难。没办法，还是只有继续用我们的双脚丈量这片神奇的土地。嘎隆山要到8月才开山，目前仍被雪封，但门巴族人已经可以走小路翻山口进出墨脱。我竭力想找到几个门巴人来打听情况，如果运气好，还可以跟他们一起走，但没有成功。
第二天早饭后，我们离开80K,跨出了通向嘎隆拉山的步伐。前方的道路如何？我们都没走过，仅从地图上可以看到大致的路线，我和小玲仍背着大背包，拄着拐杖，一步步朝雪山深处走去。走呀走，那郁郁葱葱的森林开始渐渐地消失，白皑皑的雪峰正列队而来。
下午两点钟，我们已经走完三十多里路。在一个水溪旁，我看见一辆锈迹斑斑的推土机，机体上的落叶和浮土告诉我，这是一辆被遗弃了多年的老家伙。我们在此休息.我们放松地平躺在溪边的碎石上，闭着眼静静地呼吸着清新而稀薄的空气。这是一种独特的享受，身心与自然融为了一体。也许，这是我们走出墨脱全程的最后一次享受，再往前走，就开始进入了冰雪世界。
半小时后，我们又出发了，穿出一片高原森林，树木渐渐稀疏。下午5点，我们开始登山了。傍晚，远处的雪峰在夕阳的涂抹下变得金黄透亮，雪峰山腰则一片橘红，色彩不停地流变着，构成最美妙的图画。我们不忍离去，就这么呆呆地看着，直到雪峰山尖被染成了红色。
晚上六点半，我们到了嘎隆拉山下。寒风卷着碎雪在山谷乱窜，伴随着刺耳的怪叫声。小玲从背包里翻出一个帽子戴在头上，帽子的两面是用围巾缝织在一起的，戴在头上可以把头和脖子包裹得严严实实，仅露出两只眼睛。我们走进积雪里，踏着掩埋脚背的积雪，一步步地朝雪山深处走去。前方被连绵的雪峰遮挡，一座雪峰变戏法似地移到了身后，新的雪峰又冒出来。公路在右方盘旋而上，消失在一片白色之中。我试图用肉眼辩认哪个隘口是可以通过的嘎隆拉，但很快发现这是徒劳。因为隘口处都是陡峭的冰川，上面根本没有任何路迹。晚上八点，我们到达一座雪峰的半腰处，翻过眼前这座雪峰就可以看见嘎隆拉山垭口了。公路在一处转弯处彻底消失了，一个60度的倾斜冰坡使得路在此成为终点，除了后退无可选择。那里有一尊巨大的石崖，路旁有几间极为简易的木板屋，这些被人们遗弃的木板屋在寒冷中顶着碎雪，使人感到凄凉悲怆。我走进破木屋，屋里还铺着一排湿漉漉的木板，一看便知开山时节这里曾住宿过进出山口的背夫或民工。
我决定沿公路一直上去再说，天开始下雪，但碰到身上就化了，公路两侧尽是未化的积雪-更恰当地讲是冰。天地间一片灰白，风刮了起来，很冷。我在路边的平地上搭起帐篷。雪渐渐停了。饥渴难耐，此时我们最大的愿望便是吃顿热饭。找了一大堆枯木枝，大都是因下雨淋湿了，把一个打火机用坏了才生起一堆火来，我在地上挖了一个坑，架上树枝点燃火开始煮饭。 熊熊燃烧的大火将雪崖照得通红，大火将我们烤得暖乎乎的。借助火光我解开小玲腿上的包扎带，仔细地看了腿上的伤口，已经结疤，在红红的疤缘处还渗着星星血迹。我为她重新上了一层药膏，慢慢包扎好。
我和小玲钻进睡袋,我把唯一的那条毛毯给小玲盖上,由于轻装,我们只带了一条毯子,外面的风声呼啸而过，声音似鬼哭狼嚎，令人毛骨悚然。我就要快睡着了，突然小玲轻轻地说道：“这次的经历真是很难忘，但我这几天总有一种感觉，我们越往前走，我觉得你离我就越来越远了，你觉得今后我们有没可能再次走到一起？”我一时不知道怎么回答小玲，小玲知道我听见她的话了，我思考了一阵，慢慢地说：“我想我们是不可能的，说心里话，我很高兴能同你相识，共同走过这么艰险的长路，但是。。”.“但是什么？”小玲的声音明显有点失望。我继续说“因为一旦我们回到现实中后，你可能不是现在的你，我也可能不是此刻的我了”。我接着说：“人总是这样，越得不到的东西越觉得可贵，但理想和现实之间总是会存在很大的差距的啊”。听了我的话，小玲沉默下来，叹了口气；说“是啊，这是一种缘份，但缘份又都是可遇不可求的啊。。。”。通过十多天来的接触，我感觉到小玲是个很优秀很可爱的姑娘，我相信如果是在城市里，一定会有很多优秀的男孩喜欢她，追求她。我一直很奇怪小玲为什么会来走墨脱的，后来她告诉我这还是她第一次出远门，至于墨脱，她还是到西藏后才弄清楚在哪里的。从进入墨脱的第一天开始，她一路上吃了那么多苦，还要承受很大的风险，甚至是直接面对生与死的危险。一次在路上我问她这个问题，但她却以开玩笑的口气说：“你不会以为是因为我喜欢你吧，把你美的”。看到我有一丝尴尬，小玲又笑着说“本姑娘是出于同情心才决定来照顾你的，怕你一个人走会太孤独，太危险，于心不忍啊”。有一次，小铃神态严肃地问我：“我和你一起出来，你不会认为我是一个很随便的女孩吧？”我没有回答，小铃又接着说：“你相信吗，我是一个很传统的人，以前我从没想过会单独和男孩子出去旅行的”。一次小玲对我说：“我一直都是一个追求完美的人，爱上一个人是很难的，但我真的很欣赏你这种类型的男人。”我好奇地问：“为什么”她说“沧桑沉默，我也不知道怎么回事，就很容易喜欢上他们”。其实我已经听懂了小玲的意思，面对一路上小铃多次试探性的言语，我只能保持沉默，更多的时候是顾左右而言他，我至今不知道当时的那些猜测对不对，因为从没有向小玲求证过，我不知道当时的那种态度是否已经深深伤害了小玲，现在想起来觉得心里很内疚，我也不知道如果以后一直和她在一起会有什么结果，无论如何，今天我更希望小铃能够理解我当时的那些想法：其实我也是一个很认真的人，但我知道小玲年龄还小，我和小玲的经历和环境也有很大的差别，小铃是一个富有热情的人，我也一样，但我知道现实生活中有很多东西可能是我们永远无法超越的。我当时的拒绝正是为了对小玲的未来负责。在别人眼里我一直是一个很坚强的人，但作为一个男人，为了不伤害你所爱的人，有时必须控制和压抑自己的情感，这其实是很难做到的。但我真的不想伤害小铃。我就是这么想的。但小玲当时并不知道我想的这一切。
我合上眼沉沉地睡去。不知是海拔偏高还是气温下降，半夜我明显地感觉到呼吸困难，我使劲翻身坐起来，外面熊熊燃烧的大火已经彻底熄灭了。小玲裹着毯子紧靠着我熟睡着，寒冷似乎还没有影响到她的睡眠。我看着身边的小玲，怀着对明天翻越嘎隆拉山垭口命运未卜的担心，心里想：自己的现在体力和精力都也已消耗得差不多了，但无论如何明天一定要照顾好小玲，一定要安全地将小玲带出墨脱。我在心里告诫自己：一定要小心，小心再小心。看看时间，才早上三点钟，就这样迷迷糊糊地捱到了天亮。
天空在时间的流逝中渐渐亮开，团团白雾正朝巍巍的雪峰之巅飘去。我睁开眼，拉开帐篷,帐篷外面的天地似乎已经变了模样：大雪覆盖的山峰，昂着头颅傲视深深的雪谷，一束金色的阳光正好映在雪峰尖上。我摇了摇僵硬的头，定睛细看，帐篷上有了厚厚的一层白霜。我坐起身，叫醒小玲。小玲的整个身躯和头颅都深深地藏于睡袋中。她钻出头来，眨巴着迷惑的眼睛望着我：几点钟了?我大声地叫小玲快起来，已经七点钟了。小玲从睡袋里爬出来。我对着茫茫雪山深深地呼吸着，一股白雪特有的气味迅速潜进肺腑。我不停地活动着四肢，让体内的血液加快流动。我站在转着身子四处寻望，太阳悄悄地冒出头来，把山谷雪地照得通红。然后我告诉小玲今天是大太阳，“哇!没有风暴。”小玲兴奋得左手紧握拳头朝空中猛然一挥，几乎跳起来。我见小玲如此激动，也咧开嘴笑了。据介绍，天气恶劣时，嘎隆拉山垭口就会起风暴，这时翻越垭口将是极其危险的。随后我又补充了一句，关键是看垭口有没有风暴，有时阳光普照山谷的时候，高耸云端之上的嘎隆拉山垭口正在下冰雹。我的这句话真实地反映了高原雪峰的特征，使小玲迅速地冷静下来。但我知道还有有一点也很重要，就是要赶在中午一点以前翻过垭口。时间晚了，就没时间下山了，这也是一件非常危险的事情。因为嘎隆拉山的另一面同样是冰雪天地，一个生命如果没能按时走出这个严寒缺氧的冰雪世界，会永远倒在那里。
阳光穿破云层射向嘎隆拉山顶。看看时间，已经九点整。我们朝嘎隆拉山峰膜拜了一下，希望得到众多雪峰神灵的庇护。然后，背起行李包，小玲又戴着她那顶帽子，还把毛巾围在脸上，透过毛巾的缝隙在雪中行走，只露出两个眼睛，再戴上墨镜,我也取出墨镜戴好，我走在前面。小玲拄着拐杖紧紧地跟在的后面。我知道，离嘎隆拉山垭口还很远很远，现在我们攀越的这座雪峰连山顶都看不清楚。我们拄着拐杖朝嘎隆拉山垭口前进。随着海拔的升高，心跳猛烈加剧，感觉头有些晕痛，眼前的一切变得模糊，人出现了飘逸的幻觉，这是严重的高山缺氧反应，也是身体严重不适的危险信号。只能喘息片刻，让狂跳的心渐渐平静。
终于我们登上了离嘎隆拉山垭口最近的雪峰。我深深地吸了一口气，看看远方的嘎隆拉山垭口，再看看身旁的小玲。翻越海拔4700米的嘎龙拉山的路极其陡峭、湿滑，不论怎么走，都必须要从冰雪坡上通过，而唯一比较平缓的雪坡却是两山之间被不知多深的积雪填满的沟谷。也许下面是深达百米的冰雪，但也许下面是空的。
上午十点,终于看见了远处隔着一条深深雪谷的嘎隆拉山口。我右手握住插进积雪的藤拐杖，左手摘去太阳镜，按捺住激动的心情，睁大眼久久地注视着前方的嘎隆拉山垭口。从太阳射过来的方向看过去，十几座雪峰紧紧地相靠在一起，可以清晰地看见七个醒目的垭口。据当地人介绍：嘎隆拉山垭口是从左面数过去的第二个垭口，其余的垭口翻过去后均是万丈悬崖，翻错了垭口必死无疑。我用左手指着前方的峰垭大声对小玲说道：就是太阳照着的那个垭口，第二个雪峰上的那个垭口，就是我们要翻越的嘎隆拉山垭口！小玲抬起他那被帽子和毛巾紧紧包裹着的头颅，顺着我手指的方向，也朝远处寻去。
嘎隆拉山垭口上阳光与白雪碰撞出的光芒强烈地刺激着我的眼睛，忽然使我的眼睛迸出无数光斑。我摇晃着身子，瘫坐在积雪上，紧紧地闭着发痛的眼睛，双手捂着脸。我意识到那是雪山垭口反射出的阳光射伤了眼睛，我赶紧埋下头，等着视力的恢复。同时大叫小玲快戴上墨镜。据说，翻雪山不戴墨镜眼睛要瞎，我们要行进的方向正好是顶着阳光与白雪交汇的方向，若不戴墨镜，眼睛受到这种长时间的刺激其后果非常可怕。我的眼睛慢慢地恢复了，透过墨镜又可以隐隐地看见了色彩斑娴的山峦、雪峰，看清了嘎隆拉山垭口。
这里的岩石缝中生长着许多雪莲，有的仅长出小的嫩叶，有的已有一尺高，半开着花儿，雪莲是这里的唯一植物，行长期较短，且只生长在这样的海拔高度以上，不畏风雪严寒，一棵棵傲立风雪中。雪莲是非常好的草药。我随手采了一只，但没有放进包中，此时的状况，已不想再给自己行包里增加任何一份重量。
前面出现一条约一百米长的山脊边缘，我们的左面紧贴冰崖，脚下是厚厚的冰层，一串串粗大的冰柱悬挂在头顶上，冰道的右面却是深不见底的深渊。我仔细地观察着这段不足一米宽、似老虎嘴的冰道：亮晶晶的冰层将崖道紧紧包裹着，光滑的冰面上凹凸不平；冰道的左面没有任何可抓攀之处。我不敢贸然走上冰道，可这是惟一的路啊!
在我们的脚下，云团起伏升腾，连成一片，如浩瀚的云海，渐渐朝山峰间涌来。我紧张起来，这是风雪即将来临的信号。不能再犹豫了，遇上风雪，我就翻不过嘎玛山垭口了，会冻死在山上的。我背包内翻出衣服包在小玲和自己的胶鞋上，增加鞋与冰面的摩擦力，背着行包，极为小心地踏上冰面，我们用拐杖在一点一点地拄着走。我在前面走,小玲跟在后面,但小玲还未走出三十米，就喊双腿就发软，而且一个劲地抖，最后,我叫她干脆跪在冰道上，将行包给我，她慢慢地爬行通过。
离嘎隆拉山垭口仅有二百米远的距离了。山口两侧极为陡峭，近乎垂直，只有隘口处插着的两根竹杆证实了人类的气息。嘎隆拉山垭口就在前方,我已能清楚地看见垭口两端竖着两根木柱，这两根裹缠着白色哈达和经幡的木柱已被冰层包裹得严严实实，成了两根粗粗的冰柱，这是嘎隆拉山垭口的标志，也是保佑翻山的路人平安的吉祥物。
临近山口，雪越来越深，行走更加费力，小玲每走几步，就得喘息很久，我就停下来等她,自己也借机气。小玲弯着腰用拐杖顶住自己的胸膛，似乎一步也走不动了。我的腿也麻木了，右腿一打弯便紧抽的疼痛。上下坡时，腿会吃不住劲跪倒在岩石上，不知摔了多少跤，双膝已不知是什么感觉了。这是一段难以想像的险途，每向前一步，都得全身心地投入，不得有任何闪失。
忽然，一阵轰轰隆隆的炸裂声从雪谷中传来，我惊异地转过头去，大面积积雪排山倒海般朝深谷坠去，雪浪似万顷波涛，吼声如千雷齐鸣，巨大的雪崩持续了十几分钟。雪浪雾气从深谷中升腾蔓延，很快这种由雪组成的雾气将深谷填满，奇异狭长的雪谷消失了，消失在滚滚的白浪中。填满深谷的雪雾，随风一波又一波地朝雪峰之颠涌去，场面非常壮观。在惊异与激动中，我发现两小时前我所走过的雪道已经面目全非。
我们已经不可能再行走了，沿垭口途中积雪已经掩埋到膝盖，厚度超过一米五，陷进雪中的腿根本无法抽出来，身躯在积雪中慢慢下陷。也许前面的积雪越来越深，这样走下去，我们会被积雪活活掩埋掉。我将自己的背包压在胸前，绑带的一端系在我的腰间，另一端牵着小玲，一点一点地朝前爬行，耳旁是心脏猛烈的狂跳声和踏进积雪里发出的咕咕声。我的手掌很快失去了知觉，随即膝盖以下的脚也失去了知觉，每向前一步，都得费劲地扯掉衣服与冰的粘连，这是海拔五千多米高的雪原，每前行一步，都是生与死的考验!就这样爬过了冰道，但我们不能作任何喘息，必须不停地运动，否则寒冷将伤害我们的身体。还剩下短短的几十米距离我们朝垭口靠近，再靠近……的胸闷、头昏、呼吸困难，我看到小玲一次次地紧闭双眼，将红肿的手放在胸前，张大嘴喘息、再喘息。
离垭口仅有十米远了，透过亮晶晶的冰柱体，缠绕在木柱上的白色哈达和经幡清晰可辨。我告诉小玲，翻垭口的时候不能坐下来喘息，有的人就是坐下来喘息时窒息而死的。无论如何，身体不能停止活动，否则会被冻伤而渐渐昏迷。爬行中，我的手套也不知掉到哪里去了。时间在一秒一秒地过去，垭口上，咆哮的寒风竟奇迹般地停了。万般小心地一步步挪到了山口处，最后的十多米是近乎垂直的陡峭雪坡，上面有人工挖出的脚窝，但我们不敢仅凭这脚窝爬上去，因为身后的大背包使我重心偏后，一旦失足，后果不堪设想。我和小玲每走一步便要把杆子深深地插进雪里，慢慢地挪到了山口。我知道，我已经爬上嘎玛山垭口了。直到最后一步，我才真正的看到嘎隆拉。
中午12点,我们终于登上了海拔4300多米的嘎隆拉山垭口。这是封山时节的嘎隆拉山垭口，是墨脱通向波密海拔高度最高、道路最危险的地方。蓦然，胸中猛烈地狂跳起来，心中的快乐难以言喻，我大叫了几声。我慢慢地跪下来，解开了系在腰间的绑带，将小玲一点一点地拉上来。小玲上了顶，她没有结开绑带，乌紫的嘴唇半晌说不出一句，几分钟后，突然“哇”地一声，她扑到我身上，号啕大哭！我紧紧搂住她那消瘦抽搐的双肩，突然也泪水难抑。终于走过来了，我感到了走到生命边缘的无奈和重获新生的难言.几天来，小玲和我一起，翻山越岭，钻穿密林，天天在死亡线上挣扎，可怜的女孩！很久很久，小玲止住了哭声。
回望走过的道路，雪道上留下了长长的爬行痕迹，从山腰曲曲弯弯朝高处延伸，一直通向峰顶。垭口的另一端，覆盖着千年积雪的山峰依然雄伟，山峦半腰裹着厚厚的云雾，山下右前方出现了三个很大湖，巨大的冰川从山顶直滑向湖中。三池银光如景的湖水并排依偎在一起，雪山挺拔的倩影倒映其间，一片片轻云在脚下浮动，漫山遍野盛开着雪莲，就象展开了一卷斑斓柔媚的彩墨画。这便是我们的下山之路，依然充满着曲折和艰辛。山口的另一侧是一条细长的平台，挂满了经幡的玛尼堆上一些人民币被小石块压住，这是过路的门巴人用来敬献嘎隆山神的。为表虔诚，同时也表示感谢，我也压上了一块钱。越过隘口我们已踏出了墨脱的地界。
波密一侧下山的小路清晰可见，但走起来简直没完没了。来到了嘎隆山的山脚。一片雪峰环抱的牧场，左侧的小山坡上有一座喇嘛庙，牧场上有一些藏式帐篷，几头牦牛闲放着。喇嘛庙里也没人出来。已经下午5点了，我们还在不停地下坡，腿几乎已不是自己的了，回头望去，嘎隆拉显得又高又远，可前面的路仍看不到尽头。在一处坡面稍缓的地方，我碰上了迎面而来的两个门巴汉子，我有些激动，总算又见到人了。他们也停下来，年长些的一位用不太标准的汉话问我们是不是走过来的，年轻些的则掏出一瓶川曲喝了两口后递给我。他们告诉我：再下一个钟头就到公路了，而公路上一个叫53K的地方有幢破房子，可以避雨生火，甚至搭上到波密的车。
我再一次抬起头寻望嘎隆拉山垭口。傍晚的太阳将远处的雪峰照映得金光灿烂。雪峰依然美丽，我开珑始忙着拍摄这些多姿的雪峰。这些雪峰都是南迦巴瓦峰山脉，蜿蜒起伏，很有特色，永远也不会融化的白雪将山峰深深地裹住。此时，垭口雪花飞絮，云雾缭绕。我寻视着四周的雪峰，心中溢出一股敬畏感。
往下的路依旧十分陡峭，又走了一个多钟头，终于又见到了公路。这时的我们已经快站不住了，每迈一步都感觉两腿发麻，难以支撑，值得庆幸的是没走几步就在路右侧见到了塌了一半的破房子-已废弃的原53公里处养路站。
我们终于到达了通汽车的道路。在这里我们等到晚上7点钟才搭上一部去波密的军车。 “今晚有热水可以洗澡吗？”小玲问了个至关重要的问题。 “也许有吧”我对她说道。 “洗了澡，我要马上换件干净的衣服！”小玲兴奋说。如果现在一个女孩祈祷的只是用热水洗澡，能穿上一身干净的衣服，是一种什么样的感受。我想，如果没有她，这条路我也会默默地独自走完，但有小玲的陪伴，给这条原本孤寂苍凉的行程带来了很多温馨，后来每当我从电视、书中看见墨脱时，我总是会想起当时一个叫'小玲'的女孩。
车开了约两个小时，天已经完全黑了，从下午7：00至晚上9：35，五十公里走了近三个小时，晚上9点32分，暗红的天空正在失去光泽，波密大桥出现在我的视觉中，插在桥面上的白色经幡正随风飘荡。内心的狂跳令我头昏目眩。经此段的河流宽阔、缓慢，隐隐地折射着水波的光彩，远处是起伏的山峦。晚风掠过，渗溢着清新的草木的气息。
晚上到波密地区宾馆，我们又感受到了久违的床的温暖，只记得那天晚上睡觉时，小玲抱着她自己的被褥，不停地在床上打滚，口中兴奋地喊着“我要睡觉，我要睡觉，我不吃不喝，明天要睡上一天哟！”
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Author: billccc
