At midnight, long-distance bus stopped at the Qinghai Lake River, a small town on the plateau. Here only a few small motels cottage homes, and some hurried to Lhasa, crossing the driver, seems to have nothing else passing through. Liao, if the stars of light-colored sky shrouded in the shady under the town to take the air on all sides who seem lonely desolate. However, here, we backpacker line three, started the long-awaited trip to Qinghai Lake.
The following morning, the sky covered with dark clouds cover the earth with a one JANSEN, late autumn in northern Tibet, "the north wind convoluta Baicao off." Facing the map, we decided to walk along the south bank of Qinghai Lake in the day. Then leave the town, along the path between the highland pastures north and the line, empty plateau far saw, gray blue Qinghai Lake on the unexpected seems to come from the ground in general, hanging in the air, actually 1:00 not sure . In the midst of excitement and cheering after the run, really we came to her side.
Between heaven and earth are confused and endless stretches of barren, Nongyun Crimping the lake has been extended to the days of the end of the broad lake waves rolling, rolling waves flock to the shore, the beach tides unceasing beating around the clock.
Winding Li a northwest wind whistled, the plateau on foot shore, walking on the beach and between and pasture. We sometimes burst out Fang Ge, in the eternal silence of the plateau cry: sometimes silently forward, listen to the voice from the voice of nature. Years if the pace of time and space shuttle to explore the soul of this Haizi formation. Montreal, big chunks of yak dung, let a long a lot of insight: occasionally there will be a few pieces were even higher than the hwangcho, drowned in our figure.
At noon, the sky suddenly began to snow Piaoqi a goose feather, and our trip seems increasingly difficult, Koe-leria cristata or melting snow, walked on, our shoes and trousers were soaked, the air has become more and more cold. From cold and hunger we decided to turn back roads, had to repeatedly climb over the fence off pasture south trip.
Afternoon, the snow slowly stopped, and we finally once again back to the highway, roads were wet snow fight, and rarely passing cars from here, the National Road written kilometers figures clearly tell us to leave the That is called jiangxigou has more than 30 kilometers of the town of. But now here we are in the open wilderness, the front of map view, the former stores the middle of nowhere. A sudden I saw not far away from us, there is a hidden package. After some of our together, decided where to spend the night in a night bar.
Where the majority of Tibetans do not speak Chinese, this guy is no exception. He Nongmeitaiyan, a tall man, wrapped in a thick jacket to Tibet. Possession of a small bag on the floor there is a simple little stove, the pot is cooking something Gulp, red packets to the fire seemed very warm. We are interspersed with hand gestures gesturing to him that want to spend the night here temporarily, and would like to eat that pot thing. He half puzzled half-solution, give each of us a bowl of steaming hot mutton potatoes, not much to say, we quickly gobble up. After the meal, he sandwiched a simple Chinese characters by hand gestures that he would have gone immediately to bring out more than 200 sheep went to somewhere else. And tell us that about three kilometers away from here in the west, where there was hidden packages, you can go try. It appears to leave here, he strongly do not want us and handed the meal. In the simple and affectionate farewell handshake, we step back to look at the three hidden packages, and watched it quickly demolished, and slowly disappearing in our sight.
In the deepening twilight of the wilderness around us, we finally found, an excuse boy pointing Tibetan package, man of the house is a large circle of yak and sheep crowd, we have expressed our errand, he was warmly received us possession of bag, where furnishings are very Simple. The hostess was on the ground assemble the stove, it seems also for grazing and erected temporary accommodation. Man of the house of Chinese speak bad, people are very warm, in a familiar voice say hello, we have not met for years, seems to have an old friend.
Darkness slowly enveloped the earth, the wind gradually died down. We put down luggage, try to also go to helping ring sheep Wai cattle, and mud assemble kitchen. Their side to teach on our side to do, looking at the way they are able, we have again and again clumsy movements, a mud both ambiguous dirty hands, have made us laugh with each other.
Night, in the possession of bag sat on the floor, when the property's kaoliang, gradually we drank most of a bottle, whole body began to warm up. Were also heated face of the flush, we then more and more, talk more and more concentrated Hing. 酒逢知己千杯少. Far apart from the capital Beijing to Lhasa: ways of the world, from the customs and habits to personal ideals, we talked about the topic too much.
There is always a kind of inexplicable moved, let us talk to each other. I told them that we are here is to experience life, to find a return to nature tourism, to understand more and more people's way of life, to experience life. He also told us that he was born in Lhasa, 30 years, ran the business done to make a living car, wander more than half of Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, and now live relatively stable, the family's biggest dream is to go to the capital of Beijing to see a certain have a look. There is always a kind of inexplicable moved, filled in around us.
His wife does not speak Chinese and focuses on Tim with dry cow dung, from time to time wisp wisp of black hair hanging in front of us, and we smiled, he smiled, sparking the fire, Surely in her face on the bronze She was so beautiful and serene. The pot boiled with mutton, is very incense wafting heat, and the enthusiasm of our words, gradually filled the entire tent. Somewhere, God arranged for us here, in the wilderness on the plateau on Earth, and this fellow to meet the snow-covered plain, whether it is God, or the legendary fate.
The next morning, bright and sunny, blue skies. We take great strides on the road to the west around, walked towards Bird Island. Not far from the Qinghai Lake, in the sunshine becomes azure blue. Across the snow-capped mountains and diverse colors have become. Lake in the Harbor Hill is clearly visible, it seems that in the Looking to the winds and waves, and we are a forward.
We seem to Yu Chunshun at the foot of China, long-distance truck in the side flash that is over. Su-mei driver of his life at us, some good will by pressing the loud speakers, and some waved encouragement to us. Once again, after going through a morning walk, then ride bandwagon, after a dark horse Changhe Town, I came to a longing for a long time the town of Bird Island. Plateau exceptionally bright afternoon sun, in this is not a tourist season, when there is no tourist crowds and vehicles. Is particularly the desolation of the town.
In fact, here, from a real Bird Island, as well as 17 km. We decided to use his legs again, to measuring the remaining mileage. This is made of Buha River alluvial delta plain, the land is fertile. Gravel-paved road, a boundless at the end, both sides of the pasture was a piece of wire into a circle, in many Tibetan houses settled here, and always heard bursts of barking dogs. Sometimes the road will encounter a few come out of the yak, and we go to, and their friendship and shadow.
Sighs again and again, where is the end of the road. Dusk, Bird Island in Qinghai Lake Station after a long finally greet the eye. We arrived on foot, so here is stunned by just three staff members, but also hastened to greet us to house sit, and to steaming dumplings entertainment, it also makes us moving. They told us that today they received the first batch of tourists, but also the year the first batch of visitors came on foot from the town.
As has come to early winter birds on Bird Island all had to fly back to the South go. At this point there are only a few wintering swans. Although we have expected so, but with ease. After all, for many years to achieve a long-cherished wish. Cheer up again, flying to Saudi Arabia, then in May there have been tens of thousands of birds to lay eggs in the sand, we look for the birds possessed a trace. Bird watching so many bones and feathers, and we enjoy flying the wings of our dreams, to imagine the spectacular tens of thousands of birds flying together. That numerous small hollow where the number of chicks hatched ... ... ...
Unconsciously, we are faced with China's largest lake stands quietly and slowly became the Bird Island side of the three magic lonely rock.
In the sunset light, a long delay in the shadow, once again embarked on a journey back to town. Brilliant gradually dispersed, the air became cold quickly up the road in addition to our rustling footsteps, leaving only silence and stillness. The moon hung quietly deep blue horizon, night gradually deepened, while the moon is also down. Only the sky of the stars hanging in a shady color the sky, has been down to a horizon. Plateau the air is so transparent, for the first time saw the Milky Way so clear, never been stopped, the two sides across the sky, like a mosaic full of gems of the feathers, then such a shining light Milky Way. Milk way into the West known as the Milky Way is really their fair share.
The next day we left, and really want to leave. Looking out the window to blue to deep blue sky, majestic and mysterious snow-capped mountains, the eternal sea of lonely hearts mountains, the blue Qinghai Lake. Really have to find a time to seize the throat, so that space-time frame freeze-frame, so that our feelings stopped. Yes ah, only in this snow-covered plateau lakes and wash off the mind and soul, will let me so Nanshenanfen.
Qinghai Lake has finally disappearing in the line of sight, the snow-capped mountains are farther and farther, but the memory of the fence it actually filled, and this can get rid of Hui Qinghai Lake trip.
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