Beijing, in my travel plans in life, it is only those who should be the place to be.
Among these are neither entirely because Beijing is China's capital, the political center, is a textbook longing; not because she is the Imperial Ming and Qing dynasties, has lofty majestic Forbidden City, Great Wall winding ambitious. I Guahuai really more of her history - the history of Remembrance, whether it is comforting, humiliation, or puzzled; and I can feel the freedom, quiet, and even some thoughts of self and confusion.
Beijing, that is, nearly 500 years of our nation to survive, a microcosm of experience in the struggle and markings. During our trip, is an attempt to capture and feelings to those fragments, incomplete and vague traces of history. It allows them to shoot all sorts of mind-Indian imagination, wanton with the sense of conflict, harmony, from which access to nourish the mind and experience the thrill and the touch. This is the Beijing real meaning in my mind, that is why I aspire to deeper motives.
Travel in Beijing, but not always in my travel plans a reality. In my consciousness, and even the Forbidden City and Great Wall is the only aspire to maintain only two place, and they face is so familiar, so on so I have some neglect and numb. Become familiar with so emotional calm and indifferent to the loss of the last Queshi calm passions, just left of the cold. It is true that he is unable to completely get rid of it influencing the formation of a long-term didactic textbook-style driven, may be the land of Beijing but is most unlikely to be as unrecognizable as the Yangtze River Three Gorges and disappear, perhaps precisely because of these factors, the trip to Beijing This ignored and gathering dust.
Wife to a business trip to Beijing. As a result, long-buried plan will naturally be put on the agenda.
The impression that there are many on Beijing: city, traffic jams complex, dust storms, alley, courtyard, the Olympic Games ... ... these or clear, or vague, or fragment of memory traces, after the trip, some have a more tangible proof, Some have had to be revised, while others with more tales of nameless, strong, deep touch and awaken them such as "Boxer Rebellion", "looting", "humiliation", "burn" and so on and so forth are the most jumped into the eyes of the most frequent words, that moment in my mind always billowing sky blazing fire, tortuous swaying figure, I even hear a trace of sound, even though I clearly re-imagined not too exaggerated, but it happens As is watching the sound of a silent film, body stiffness, 2 Gogo ... ...
History, to me, invariably appear to be excessively heavy; while traveling on me, even more like the coming battle. According to my character, control is vigorously pursuing. So, plan - a detailed, meticulous, a good travel plans have become a matter of course, had to complete the task.
With regard to travel plans, the first must be determined in the entire planning process a few nodes. Journey beginning to end, which must reach the specific location. Then based on these nodes to determine the layout of concrete actions and steps between the two is the relationship between the branch and leaf. The entire plan, time - the traffic time, tour time, rest time, and so is the need to control the key to the key. Like a real battle need to do it, you have to control the location of troops to fight the time required to launch the attack time, time to end the fighting is expected to set aside time for retreat and recuperation, and even the time of unexpected situations, etc. All of this is not to be accurate to minutes and seconds, but it should be as much as possible the budget; should also take full account of the need to exclude and to avoid. For example, when the fighting forces must be allowed in the plan in place before dawn deployed, it is time budget dawn hours of the end point, otherwise the battle will affect the entire comprehensive plan; and from a tourist point of view, for instance to watch flag-raising ceremony , we must determine the starting time of the ceremony, arriving to watch the counting of the traffic time, whether to advance in order to occupy the best location, allow time for unexpected situations and so on. I think the principle of such a plan should have great regularity, and travel to other situations or daily life, work, etc. are intertwined, and can properly draw.
About Beijing travel plans in the following main points:
2 accommodation point in considering the health, economic and security should be fully take into account on the basis of day of travel itinerary, which is easily accessible. This is important, especially in Beijing such as the mega-cities of travel, which for reducing the traffic on the time-consuming, to ensure adequate rest time for tours and there is a very significant role.
2 transport difficulties to be given full consideration. They had to be studied as accurately as possible to determine the traffic routes and vehicles driving range. According to the characteristics of the larger sites tend to closely integrated with the actual tour route to determine which direction to a scenic area of import, re-export from which the end and connect to the next trip. In addition, it is important point is to maintain a good attitude, the light is not possible anxious to resolve any problems. "No, if release physical, mental, Ming Ren Ran Tendo."
2 key scenic spots should retain sufficient time to visit, or even did not hesitate to cancel minor items, changing the original itinerary. Travel utility the best, does not lie traveled to play to make all of the place, but that you can place in the most admired before the imagination, and understanding after the harvest and the actual sentiment among the closest to achieve full, deep confirmation and sublimation, in order to obtain a full, full experience.
2 make full use of network resources, through an understanding of web site on local briefing, read the User their travels tips, communicate a variety of difficult issues, from the summary of the information filter out useful information to enrich themselves added to the plan.
The flight to Beijing at the Second ○ ○ San Nian Ba Yue Jiuri Saturday 8:00, after about two and a half-hour flight, arrive destination - Beijing Capital International Airport. Immediately, we transfer to the airport bus to the urban area, such as a number of airport bus lines, travelers can choose according to their own itinerary, tickets are 16 yuan. We chose the direct international hotel shuttle, because the planned first stay at the front door, while the International Hotel in the Jian Guo Men Wai, near the Beijing Railway Station, from the front door close. International Hotel direction of departure and arrival airport bus in different locations, arriving at the hotel, East Gate site, while the place of origin is in the west gate. We are out of the west gate, arrive by bus 120 is accessible to the front door, also arrived at the first Beijing trip point of an accommodation.
The front door --- remember best was in the lyrics, the "tall front door ... ...." It is located just south of Beijing City, is a Dongcheng District. Geographical location is extremely convenient, it can be said of the transportation hub south of Beijing, and gathered most of the Chinese people familiar attractions, including natural, historical and cultural, commercial, and so should stop and taste the scenery. Xinshou can twist to that in the south of its Temple of Heaven, Dashilan commodity markets, in its being the north of Tiananmen Square and the nearby buildings, National Museum, National Palace Museum and Jingshan, Beihai Park, etc., and its distance from Beijing two major Xidan and Wangfujing commercial center --- no more than three stops and subway stations leading to every corner of the capital, there is also dotted with hundreds of big and small hotels, hostels and guest houses. Therefore, the front door should be to come to Beijing camp of choice for the traveling public land. We are based on-line information, select a new front door a new hotel. Small and medium sized hotels in Beijing are not generally assessed stars, and even there is no uniform standard, totally rely on my own eyes study. So I chose to stay at the points must look at the room, after the stay. Of course, do not forget Kanjia. Here, let me explain a little episode, the way it is ... the words of a two-day stay at The New Hotel, clearing rooms and time-consuming, Nasi ask us to take a 6 yuan per person per day fee for urban construction. Have been to many parts of the whole country, this issue probably is unique, and at that time did not think about yew, the right people in the capital when the sponsor happy life bar. However, after the stay at the hotel are not so experienced. Can not help but suspicious, his wife Suizhi city website to look and found that Beijing suspended due to SARS affected Lodging urban construction fees charged in September of this year, but this hotel has knowingly turned a deaf ear mercenary, but also insidiously into the room will be the cost of implicit fee, there is no official city construction fee receipt issued. So, I have no hesitation in complaints to the Beijing Tourism Bureau Accommodation Management Office, it is quite unexpected and regrettable that the provisions of the department officials indicated that they actually know nothing about, but fortunately it is also a good attitude, promised to investigate and respond. Amnesia about the time when we, but not two days after his return, it was gratifying to receive the boss of the hotel phone to us addressed to him and promised to refund more captive to our hard-earned money. For us, it can be considered a successful conclusion of the. Just do not know how many travelers have been, and paid the money wasted and the ignorant do not know how many stores got Mei Xin Qian private titter, but I do not know that our bureaucrats, they have also confused, numbness, and not as to when? However, fortunately, who is so happy there I'll wait for complaints but not too weak to those who Fortunately, even Zai, song by Yung Chi.
Implemented around noon residence. Rest, adjusting the pack, in principle, yes to the province of provinces, traveling light, but such as cameras, film, map, water, dry rations, and so you must bring along with a foot. Hastily in the nearby north-east restaurant with lunch, then went straight to the Temple of Heaven Scenic Area as scheduled.
The Imperial City Temple Scenic Spot is located in the southeast direction, rather than as to the altar, on the altar and the Temple of the Imperial City, as built on true north, due west, and is the East up. Regulation at the Royal ceremonies, the Temple of Heaven occupies an extremely important position, to be built in a location is yin, while due south to the yang, is clearly inappropriate; the southeast to the known as the C bit, is precisely the location of a case of yin Therefore, the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven built on the south-east direction. The Temple of Heaven was the Emperor up days reporting gains and losses, and an important place to pray for blessings bless each ceremony, emperors have to walk to the Temple of Heaven Temple of fasting, fasting for three days, including eating fishy dirty, not nearly in sex, Zaoshuizaoqi and multi-bathing, etc., which are complex and varied set of ceremonies, and pay attention to. Scenic area is large, and even far beyond my imagination, it made a sort of a small mistake. We arrive by bus to the scenic spot of Simon Temple of Heaven, in fact, the layout of the Temple of Heaven is the main building into a north-south axis distribution, Huan Qiu, Qi Niandian such as whispering gallery, and from south to north are lined up in the surrounding area is dotted with large old trees and lawn, very large, as well as we had to walk from the West Gate a tremendous addition to the tree is the long grass of the "pilgrimage of the Road", had to south and back north in order to be one of major construction-take-all. This is a lesson, as previously defined, play must be determined before the start and end, starting from the end of the previous action, while the end is the starting point for subsequent stroke; starting point for determining run-length of the consumption and utility, then the impact on travel destination coherence and smooth. Before the line not only to carefully study the traffic maps, but also its ties with the scenic tour map, comparative analysis, two fully integrated to form a unified and effective travel program.
To appreciate the beauty of the Temple of Heaven as a whole, the best way forward would be overlooking from the top of the high altitude, so it may see a comprehensive, real; can be for us, now only depends on the imagination. Essence of the Temple of Heaven is a Qi Niandian scenic area, as whispering gallery, and Huan Qiu is really nothing breathtaking intake of office. Qi Niandian tall and majestic as a whole, rounded lines, simple and honest. We followed it around the Golden Temple of the frustum of a cone of high white marble stone steps slowly, the steps to its front. That oncoming force's momentum, but the Yang-chih, are all imbued with the majesty of the King, the Son of Heaven's Supreme; standing In the meantime, if they do not consciously on the spin up; as if I have the tall temples with, integrating to become the center of heaven and earth; also seems Looking to see that year, the emperor and his ministers a ceremony here, canopy flying, flags fluttering, spectacular, shouting loudly in, with grand grand and, it is lamentable. In my imagination, the Temple of Heaven should be the most beautiful scenery in the morning and evening hours. Sunny morning, when the sun is not out of fresh air, and visibility. Qi Niandian at this time in the solemn quiet and solemn atmosphere, surrounded by nothing Xuanrao, engaged in between the ancient buildings, overlooking the modern reinforced concrete. At this moment, a scene that, how can they make people have more a bit of reveries, imagination and an understanding of it? Lofty Xiaguang when leaping out of the clouds when the evening mist, Shen Zhong Xing retreat to fight after the Temple of Heaven also has a different kind of charm of the US-hyun; even in the darkness and lifeless, and Shino nobody, start luminous works the Temple of Heaven, still blooming with brilliant brilliant luster; even worse, or when you accidentally from its side of a corner, through the trees branches and leaves gaps, depending on her Zunrong stealing, she also kept the are so dignified, then the majesty, even if merely temples looming outline of eaves corner ... ...
From the north gate to leave the Temple area, it is dusk, Zaiqu some great scenic spots have been unrealistic, combined with the Temple of Heaven where we have already consumed a lot of heads feet of reserves, we originally planned on trying to Jingshan Park aerial picture of the Forbidden City and the night view of the capital. Use "try" only because it was my imagination and uncertain content of the plan, whether Suiyuan have to look at good luck. Jingshan As we have said, scenic area not large, but there is also the import and export in several directions. The direction of a car direct from the Temple of Heaven, but if the starting front door, take the 5-way car, direct access to the park Simon, is the most efficient route visit Jingshan.
Jingshan is a royal garden, is located in the north of the Forbidden City is. Most people today talk about a lot can cause it to be only a small life of the emperor Chongzhen old locust tree in the crooked neck. In fact, the Jingshan real beauty lies in the capital where she was a unique advantage. Although not particularly tall, but it is rare in the capital letter inside a high point, is entirely by hand made of hand-dug hands are piling up. More from high and low mountains, building on the East-West axis of the five different characteristics of the pavilion buildings, they are arranged symmetrically, the proportion of co-ordination, be called a masterpiece. We followed a winding stone steps and neat, no how much strength on the board of the peak, also came to the highest level of that booth Hall ----- 10000 Chunting. From the kiosk outside the railings overlooking the surrounding buildings, is the south is the majestic majestic National Palace Museum, the number of pavilions, the number of halls cornices, it is to count, first thing that strikes forward to their exposure in the sunset under the dim lot of attention the soft golden light. Although the pace of the years of silence that has been relentlessly bleak eye-catching bright golden glazed tiles, but not dim our imagination, right in the past those beautiful, most beautiful things, scenes and experience the memories and imagination. And when we are faced with these historical sites, we looked at is more than just watching them, and not only so, we also have seen the history itself, or at least imagined history. Whether it is the truth or illusion, in itself is not so significant, because for those of us spectators of history, the really important and reality are not history itself, but on the history and the satisfaction derived from historical experience and our experience personality development .
Gradually the sky dim down a bit broad in the capital where the original light has gradually brighter up, but my eyes always admire those who did not leave the Forbidden City of the cornices glass; distance of the Tiananmen Square has become one ablaze with lights and bright and dazzling. In contrast, the Forbidden City on a bit bleak and desolate, and only the walls of several Wall Fan Chu light and yellow light, for the huge Miyagi, the light is only marginal, and can be is one such humble bright spots, map in my eyes, but in my mind through several centuries of dust, back to the past. Miyagi at this time is no longer dark, and no longer crisp, I am totally confused and bewildered, that's brilliant light, I do not know from where the emperor likes wedding lantern was knocked over a small eunuch asleep The palace lantern, or foreign Maozei were fierce-looking face of hate under the raging flames of the sky ... ...
Are among the illusion of free, land of a sudden thing that strikes you are in a great light. Often billed as the original is the night view of Jingshan Park project started, and saw several pavilions decorated cornices lighting, along with precipitous release of brilliant light, will hide in the dark of the pavilion buildings architecture perfectly upright and vigorous lines sketched out. I think, from the capital can reach every corner of vision at the moment is certainly bright for this rule attracted by Jingshan night. I do not know at this moment, how many pairs of eyes focus on the pleasure is to invest in our standing in place? Unexpectedly, the original is to Jingshan to enjoy the night view of the capital, it also inadvertently became a part of the capital's most beautiful night. Perhaps this is the magic of good fortune and unpredictable bar!
At this point, the capital has been completely at night. Around there are not many visitors, as we generally a strange land, and they have become more night Deng Jingshan old man, most of them in the evening after the "late", and with tea and snacks along the way met a partner with the greeting greeting. Jingshan this is not high, the three dog days of summer can easily reach the summit do not sweat, they are ready to invite the 35 old friends and enjoy the night view of the capital, nagging the joy of life, but also taste the capital's history. All this demonstrates is so very quiet and calm, but with the hustle and bustle of the capital city so complicated is not coherent. Maybe, young people should also be in the dark of night, and leave more time to Jingshan on, try to use a more tranquil and peaceful state of mind to observe their own body and mind all day long in this bustling anxiety of the city, a real hard look at ourselves body and soul, and examine their own The existence and significance of dreams. The last emperor to rule the world in order to recognize his own palace, at enormous cost the strength of man spelled out a Jingshan; today, why should not the people trying to get to higher places, and went outside, in a different perspective on your life and existence of of the environment? Will it be harvested and gain it? I think the answer is yes.
His wife's voice awakened dreamer, "the hour is late, it not you hungry?." Do not ask, do not matter, suddenly feel in hungry. Today, a lot of walking path, consumption is indeed not small. Even if the spiritual world in another filling full, it is difficult to resist the small stomach bursts of protest ah. So bid farewell to Jingshan, still out from Simon, at the door by 5 Road, opposite the car back to the front door. Decided to go to taste Beijing roast duck. The most famous Beijing roast duck is naturally Quanjude enough, but we follow the User's recommendations, Qianmen Street, cheap imitation of fresh fish in the mouth, tasting furnace roasted duck. Because the business is too good to be Quanjude to queue up, and cheap Square, only 58 yuan a whole roast duck, as well as the master site to the film ducks, while we taste the delicious Beijing, edge to appreciate the exquisite craft knife, it is good to enjoy ah ! Just like to eat Sichuan pepper, like mountain climbing do not climb Huangshan to Beijing not to try the roast duck, some regrets and sins of the Piansi. After fond, then go back to rest, do not form, thus ending the first half-day Beijing trip.
The trip added two new experiences:
The first is the trip before departure to develop a more detailed plan and made a table style, which contains a specific trip, tour of the classic, the cost of expenses and the corresponding point of concern and tips and so on, also requires own daily itinerary and in the evening at any time must be documented and summarized in order to facilitate aggregation and accumulation.
The second was the end of a day trip to the days of the trip finishing notes and special folders such as custody, one to facilitate the statistical cost of two to facilitate collection, not damage and loss. From the back after the conclusion of view, this should be a pretty good two practical travel experience.
Since we are only Saturday to Beijing, taking into account the weekend, Beijing must be Yourenruzhi difficult to measure, and for the National Palace Museum's trip would be quite valued, plan is to thin in the day travels, it will arrange a trip to the National Palace Museum Monday , the peak travel period to avoid the idea of giving a tour of Tiananmen Square, scheduled for Sunday in the vicinity.
The next day, we slept a Lanjue full ten minutes before the starting point. Want to come today or a day of grinding foot, coupled with a more intimate of the sun, after it became fine, we are prepared with sufficient water and sun protection items. Out the front door to the Tiananmen Square direction, the direction of the front door from the recent Zhengyang to Tiananmen Square, to the Forbidden City, many temples, even to the Jingshan Park in 10000 Shouting, they are strictly in accordance with the North-South axis of symmetry around the building, even if the modern the construction of the People's Heroes Monument and the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall are also in accordance with this regulation the construction of the building, even to the degree of accuracy not leave nothing. We are in accordance with the direction from south to north north-by-tour. After a front door, first came to the Zhengyang. In the dynasty era, here is the gateway to enter the Imperial City, so the construction was especially thick, majestic, and tall, so that both play a defensive role, to better highlight the majesty of the Royal free yet. After a Zhengyang, the huge building is the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, its just like they should, have a dignified, though not as ancient imperial mausoleum-like large-scale, complex structure, it also built quite awe-inspiring grandeur, evident by the date of the construction their intentions and building people's enthusiasm for the. There was pieces of anecdotes on the MAO Tang, 80 years has been rumored to be pulled down MAO Tang, Deng Xiaoping, chief architect at the time said of "The construction of MAO Tang is certainly contrary to Chairman Mao's original intent, but the fact is that MAO Tang has been built in China and the the world into a huge impact. For a fait accompli, just a simple approach is not necessarily appropriate, even if the facts themselves are wrong. " At this point, MAO Tang around the almost exclusive around the whole building has played a long queue, and many staff in the maintenance of order, asking people to pre-existing packet queue, in accordance with the designated lines were neatly arranged and so on. Visit MAO Tang is free, but pay their last respects to prohibit entry to those who carry all the items, and therefore must be entered before the storage, but also distinguish between big packs, small packets of different standard fees. This is the first who went away without a few bags, so a single point of view on economic considerations, it also has a considerable economic benefits. Inherent hate with people crowding together and some rebellious character, so I must give up struggling to pay their last respects to follow someone else's visit. I think, a far cry from people, it is important the material is no longer exist, and should be sublimated or a variation of the properties of the spiritual dimension. MAO Tang Beyond that is just north of the front of the People's Heroes Monument, its image and history do not need me too much without saying, and so his wife is regrettable that, just because there are iron bars and valiantly, surrounded by gun Bing Gege , so that we can not come to the monument front, close to admire those who have been in the textbooks, the memory of the magnificent piece of relief, accepting yet another deep solemn patriotic education is really a pity. Between the monument and the Tiananmen Square is the square in the true sense, of course, also includes MAO Tang Plaza, the location of four weeks. Square west is the Great Hall of the east is the Museum of Chinese Revolution and the Chinese National Museum. According to the information I have access to, in the dynasty period, currently the location of the monument, stands with a gate, called the Ming dynasty gate (also called China Gate), in the Ming dynasty gate to the east and west north of the extensions were built 1000 Step Gallery connected with the Tiananmen Square at a time when the square is one of this part of the door in the south of the Ming dynasty, and now the location of MAO Tang, along the axis of a wide road, flanked on either side of the trees form a barrier into the film, which can block sand, also the formation of some shade. Later, the establishment of New China, Chairman Mao he the elderly the need for a square large enough so that the world proletariat can be gathered together, but also allows him to enough audience. It is also amazing really flat spring thunder, Ever since, is the demolition of the demolition of the reform changed, in any case have to build an assembly can accommodate 15 million people in the Grand Place, the result of the current square shape. The actual size is still far beyond his original intention, and now a full square to accommodate 50 million people in a flourishing gathering. This fully demonstrates the Chinese people tremendous enthusiasm, wisdom and extraordinary creativity, indicates that the world finally has its own proletarian party, shouting place is really fortunate the Chinese nation, the world is still in dire straits in the large well-being of the people ah!
At the same time in order to open up things Chang'an Avenue, East and West side of Tiananmen Square will also include Donghuamen including several gates are fully removed at about the 10th anniversary of the founding around, these projects are largely complete. The Square in the 90s also conducted a large-scale renovation, re-laying a more solid appearance of the granite on the ground, and so, when my own eyes is that we are already quite a new "people's" Square of the. Only in such a grand people's Square, and completely forgetting the people there is no point for the rest of the edge of shade. Perhaps the people who come here have feelings of emotion and great enthusiasm to the extreme, there is no need to rest completely, but also does not mind sinister sun, sand a nuisance.
Across the street into the tunnel, across the Chang'an Avenue, we came to the Tiananmen Gate front. Everything, in front of all the fact is so familiar with the towers, lanterns, stone lion, Chinese tables, Golden Water Bridge, huge portraits, as well as it is always packed with crowds. Mechanical instinct saved a camel in those positions more photos, with his wife and walked quickly to pass through the crowd, walked into the Tiananmen Square from the portrait. Xu is now on the tower, it is also OK to be hosting package, I saw a few captain Long Branch deposit bag, the staff sweat, deft hands and feet, shouting constantly, basically does not rise watch others, the joy of a good harvest scene faction ah! The size of the colored lines from the hosting package, so that we can easily foresee that the good momentum of national economic development, and successfully completed the task of GDP growth of 7% is a piece of cake. On the tower, embracing the railings overlooking the square around the scenery, for the year like everyone scenery. Entered the house and furnishings have already gone past the Royal and put on the forum for the leaders of New China, rest of the seats, the same seat luxury grand, highlight the new no less than the old people to come, shabby, even the farmers in cities, sat the world. Unfortunately, the real world are no longer sitting farmers or had their achievements in their careers from the hand on the shoulder of the farmers in the "evolution", and no soil, and not ignorance of the. At present, our brothers from the farmers but also to pay education surcharge, namely, Health and co-ordination costs, fees, etc. for military service is evident. History is so ruthless, as ruthless a political general. We stood on the Tiananmen rostrum, a former A huge building on the dynasty, but it did not feel the touch of pure breath of the last dynasty, its history, as if suddenly started only from a certain moment, in the past everything has been completely abandoned and fragmented. May be people's moods and anxiety can be completely washed clean? This is a typical political history, political history of the original simple and clear, conscious and ruthlessly cut some modification. Really old people die, new laughter, brokers baffling ah. Because the old one, there is unspeakable, new nonsense. Ever since, we must know the months in the artful indeed requires great wisdom, great courage otherwise. Down the tower, take a line of bags, the north stands of the gates is the Meridian Gate, passed the door to truly enter into the Imperial ---- Forbidden City, which is today's National Palace Museum has. According to today's itinerary, it can only be paused at this moment, and then the door of the scenery on the press to scrutinize resistant to a thin bar tomorrow.
Out of Tiananmen Square, Zhang looked anything but straight wide Chang'an Street. Nearly noon, when, with his wife to discuss, to the Wangfujing meal, then stroll around. Guo Road, take the bus to go east, less than two stations are on is the Wangfujing.
Beijing Wangfujing is the oldest of the most prosperous commercial district, the extent and prosperity of its long history in other commercial districts can not be compared. In the eastern part of Imperial City of the West than it is prosperous and more taste, Take Xidan, for example, where the bustling mix of people squirm factor, there may be planning factors, the same as a commercial center, Wangfujing Xidan there would be no less than the noise and busy, but no lack of excitement purely a commercial boom. It also implies a strong history and culture so that people wandering around the meantime, in addition to coming here purely to satisfy curiosity and pursuit on a commercial basis, but also can we not the time or access to the mind and the emotional experience of different kind. That is why I have so many people love and remember the reasons for Wangfujing bar. In the intersection a sign of the restaurant is full of hometown flavor for lunch. Although the name from quite cordial, but the price is not considerate, but this has not cut out of the mouth of a small wine almost every meal continued, without too much restraint on the economy, also go with him! Fond after the fiery sun, his eyes blurred. Perhaps men are born for shopping on the lack of adequate enthusiasm and resilience, compared to women in this regard is pure low-energy. So, for me, it is always in a half awake state of alternating among the shops or the mall into something, you do think of to find a cool place to play confused take a rest. Of course, we take into account the psychology of the dignity of his wife to prevent her fragile hurt innocent little soul. May be a return to the streets, I do not know the reason the sun in the sky, or psychological release dictates, but rather is awake a lot of eyes are always able to Di Liu's looked about him. Then Wangfujing commercial street food festival is being staged at the world of beer, xing XU weather reasons, or after the real opening night, few diners, business people also made fade a little lackadaisical, Booth Dao Shi Qi pretty open, one more The Beer Barrel upright in that high, I heard the whole come from a foreign country, the wines are not cheap, as if it was not too interested, anyway, I have boundless capacity of it. Here, attracted the most prominent is the Nazuo Cathedral, tall and elegant, no small scale projects, building technology excellent, and fairly well-preserved. The people have more of reveries that such an exotic religious buildings are well integrated into the most traditional Chinese architectural pattern, and made no mention of abrupt and strange. I can not be clearly would like to know, but perhaps the role of historical time inexplicable power bar. Quiet time to scour the history of non-interest bearing river, occasional rapids, or drop, and can not really change the flow of the track, but it is that come and go day after day, such as low v. whisper-like traces of deeper, the real evolution or alienation may make history beyond recognition. This is also a real sense of the word should be a verdict or the trial This is the real historical truth should be ah!
We stop-go, alternating between the cool and hot feeling the rhythm slowly pass the afternoon, the capital of the heat, and sometimes there is only the perception on the ground feel his legs as the clock ticks rhythmically move around, while the other part of the foreseen in order to evaporate into the air, they soon had no trace of. Take a look at his wife, it is quite amazing that the original shopper seems to have some different now, but still empty-handed, I do not know to the contrary, less showtime interest in a foreign land, or my attitude make her an interesting cut, or the weather, fatigue factor. Yehaoyehao so that my pocket can feel at ease, and we can easily continue our journey of.
Left the Wangfujing commercial street-crossing by car to walk from the Imperial College Road (also known as Yin Street) to visit the Imperial Academy and the Temple of Confucius (Beijing Museum), Then we went to visit the Lama Temple. I have considerable interest in the museum and preferences, or a bit arty, or quick profit out of personality factors; or the original appearance of historical truth of the preferences and tendencies. Regardless of ability to read the information hidden in them, as long as can be independent, quiet and free face to face with history itself; as long as they feel they are unmistakably real, there is no subjective bias in the natural, the original flavor, it is sufficient that these also is the most important.
Imperial College Road for access to both ends there are two tall and majestic arch, covered with a variety of colorful and beautiful painting, relief; road on both sides of the number of ancient trees that shade in the hot sun Dacheng crown and the road thus thoroughly field isolate. Even the upper part of St. Paul has set off on either side extend to the branches and leaves, the breeze blowing, the ancient swaying branches, and occasionally came streaks of floating transparent to light, as if it were the words on the arch and the characterization is also moving up, as if I front is passing over the correct code of dress which, looks handsome figure of wits, let me have a more profound experience of skimming over the surface.
About the Confucius Temple, are all about the ancient Bo Sensen, unconsciously, the spirit of truly yours; both sides of the scores of the two surfaces to a high stone arranged in a long Forest of Stone Tablets, the stone tablet engraved with the sage of ancient times people respect and admire, people feel to the extremely strong and heavy historical atmosphere.伫立其中,你绝不可能流露出一丝一毫的不敬、亵渎或是嬉笑,这就是历史事物基于历史人物、事件、评价等等,汇聚而成的给后来人从视觉、触觉到内心情感的冲击和影响。她就象拥有一条无形的通道,将过去、现在和未来连接,能够使她所要传递的信息、情感,毫不费力地自由传送。就如同网络中的骇客,他们的愿望和想法可以肆无忌惮地实现,因为他们有着可以仰仗的肆无忌惮的通道和网络;他们有着可以容他们传递信息和影响的介质,而这样的令人可怖的影响大多是无形而不可逆的。庙中,依然是中国古典建筑规制中都有的那些物件。正殿两旁有对称的两排偏殿,它们之间各建筑着两个小殿供奉着巨型石龟和大钟;正殿前耸立着两株巨大的古树,殿门上挂着漆金大匾,书着四个大字“万年师表”。只是,比较起天安门、天坛、或是王府井等等地方,这里实在是有些冷清和残破了,只听见有两个年轻人看着那外皮皱折、枝冠枯槁的古数、清冷寂静的庭院、空荡肃然的大殿、甚至还有那传来的阵阵昏鸦的叫唤。连连说道“这地儿怎么这么破啊!”不屑之情溢于言表,紧接着便匆匆离去。可我却喜欢极了这儿的氛围,尼采说:最伟大的体会不是在喧闹之处,而是在寂静之时。那一切物件构筑并展现迩来的古朴、沧桑和安详,使人不由得静寂下来,那是一种不由分说的压迫,如醍醐灌顶一般。在那些喧闹的处所,和那些喧哗的人们,那些敏感而高傲的历史情绪便冷笑而孤寂地躲将起来,藏在那不知名的高处,而我则象那帮渴求偶像临幸的不幸的家伙们一般,愤怒而无助;而在这里,我甚至已经感受到出已壳的灵魂,游走在虚无和自由之间,体会着前所未有的心灵触觉。有些枯萎彷徨的心灵,重新鼓起战斗的勇气,无畏地探出触角,尽可能地向外伸展,期许能汲取到连通历史与现实通道那一端的能量,得以揭开迷惑和找到新生的动能及规律。我愿意在这其中,多待上一会,从不同角度端详这里的一砖一瓦;看看天,透过殿堂之间或大或小的缝隙;触摸那些班驳的墙壁、皱褶的古树。这些就是历史的书卷,有些泛黄、有些残损、有些霉斑,可却是那般的真实、深邃和纯粹。这些也才真正是我们精神中需要的营养,原汁原味、没有曲笔、没有篡改、诚实而坦率。只有真正亲近到文化的清源,我们也才可能获得最大的触动和快感,也才是最有裨益的。相比天安门广场偌大的地方,即没有遮阳挡风的树阴,也没有供人歇脚休憩的街椅,这里就已不知好上多少倍了。
沿着殿宇之间步道的两旁,总能见到那些不起眼却能够让人更加松弛平静的物件。我也就总愿意在那些甚至已经很班驳的椅子上多坐一会,午后的阳光依旧强烈而扰人,而在这样温和而恬静的氛围中,却并不觉得酷热和烦躁。或许也只有处在这样的身心状态下也才可能真正融入那历史遗迹的年代氛围。如果是在那焦躁愤懑的境地,又有什么奇思异想不会悄无声息地从思维中溜走,甚至都不可能存在什么思维。残留下的只有情绪、糟糕的不良情绪;而我们只是过客、迷惘失意的过客了。漫无去处的遐思连同身心的释放如此完美地交织在一起,让人倍感舒适放松而不肯舍去。
孔庙四围的偏殿原本是北京博物馆的展厅。这时却已是空空荡荡,了无几物;大门紧锁,张贴着字条,写道:馆藏搬迁,暂停开放。甚是遗憾,窃以为抛开安全、保护等层面的因素,将博物馆设在本就是文物的孔庙中,其实是相当不错的。这是一种历史情绪的汇聚,历史真迹的集合。而令让我担忧的只是,那被腾将出来的空间,历史的空间,将会留给谁、接纳谁?我想知道,却又有些不忍心了解,却只是不忍失望罢了。
终究是要离开的,其实并不会有任何的伤感或是忧郁。人们来到这里,期许更多的是获得某种不同寻常的体验和快感。如果你得到了,你就首先必须满足,更何况,离开本身就是这种体验和快感的组成部分,甚至还是不可或缺的重要因素。假若真有伤感或忧郁,那也是在回忆时才有可能,而且还不见得全然是由于此处的缘故。所以,我们满足地离开。
走出孔庙,向路的另一头走去,注意到正门两侧内百米伫立着两块一人多高的大石碑,上面用各种文字镌刻着“文武百官,到此下马”。这是文明中国为了表现尊贤敬教的下马碑,多少年来,不论世事变迁、潮流更替,它们依旧完好地伫立在此,尽管字迹有些模糊和失去光泽;尽管石碑的起伏处挂满了蛛网。这现实的存在并不是最重要的,因为老百姓的淳朴愿望和权力者的伪善姿态,还有它们耐于岁月磨折的质地属性,它们都必然会尽可能长时间地存在下去。只要不是被粗心和无良的家伙撞断了腰(沈阳故宫)。
存在并不意味着就必定具有意义,意义的大小也并不在于存在时间的长短。孔子云:朝闻道夕死足已。尼采言:只要能够体会到爱,刹那即是永恒。
走尽这条成贤街,过到马路对面,就到了雍和宫。这也是我们今天景点游览的最后一站。
步入雍和宫,第一印象就是这一系列的建筑是只有皇家才有的规制。长长的步道,让人必须经历一段笔直而庄重的收拾整理心情的过程,才能接近它的容貌,才能仔细地端详。走入正殿区域,赫然在目的是两座粗大高耸的旗杆,典型的喇嘛教风格。看了景区介绍有了更加深刻的了解。此地在康熙三十三年(1694年),由康熙帝在此建造府邸,赐予四子雍亲王,称雍亲王府。雍正三年(1725年),改王府为行宫,称雍和宫。乾隆九年(1744年),雍和宫改为喇嘛庙。由于雍和宫出了两个皇帝,成了“龙潜福地”,所以殿宇为黄瓦红墙,与紫禁城皇宫一样的规格。可以说雍和宫是全国“规格”最高的一座佛教寺院。
雍和宫由牌坊和天王殿、雍和宫大殿(大雄宝殿)、永佑殿、法轮殿、万福阁等五进宏伟大殿,加上有东西配殿、“四学殿”等建筑组成。整个建筑布局院落从南向北渐次缩小,而殿宇则依次升高,形成“正殿高大而重院深藏”的格局,巍峨壮观,具有汉、满、蒙、藏民族的特色。雍和宫的建筑特色是我不能细细叙述的,这也非我所乐于记忆和记载的。其中给我留下最深刻印象的是万福阁中那尊用一整棵名贵的白檀香木雕刻而成的迈达拉佛(弥勒佛),其高18米,地下埋入8米,佛身宽8米,堪称世界一绝。而深深让人回味的却是那交织在皇朝与佛教,人性与佛性等等中绵绵不绝的历史韵味。这里首先是雍亲王府,曾经生活了末代皇朝的两位重要的皇帝。在这里又曾发生了多少世间的悲欢离合、关乎国计民生的运筹帷幄呢?更有甚者,乾隆帝时在此设立喇嘛学院,专业培训藏传佛教的人才。学成之后他们将被派遣到西藏地区负责管理教区的工作。这样就使得中央与西藏的联系更加紧密,加强了内地与边疆民族、文化、宗教的进一步大融合,维系了王朝广大疆域的统一。乾隆皇帝的深谋远虑、高超的政治智慧及治国韬略,由此可见一斑。
来到永佑殿,这里曾经是雍亲王的书房和寝宫。一种油然而生的情思不觉流淌而来,乾隆帝弘历就是在这里长大,我甚至还能想象出孩童们在此玩耍嬉戏的身影。不觉长叹了一口气。太长时间沉溺于此,是叫人有点喘不过气了。
这就是雍和宫,京城值得一去的地方,完全就在于孕育在其中的皇家的、宗教的、人文的、建筑的、政治的、野史等等的相当繁复而饶有趣味,值得细细琢磨的历史韵律。
结束了雍和宫的行程,也就完成了今天的景点歼灭站。时辰也已经不早了,这与我行前的计划大体吻合,就是在黄昏完成大致的行程。而接下来就是吃饭和休息的问题了。计划中的下一站是去“簋街”。
“簋街”在京城的年轻人中相当有名。其实就是东直门内大街的一段,是一条美食街,主要以经营川菜和西北风味为主。 “簋街”在字面上一般都被说成“鬼街”。或许是原作的簋街,拼写太过复杂、发音太过难懂,于是就被谐音成了“鬼街”;另外的原因,就是这条街两侧都挂着成串的红灯笼。入夜掌灯之时,由街的一头向前望去,红光摇曳,犹如鬼火丛生,加上来这儿的基本上都是“饿鬼转世”。到那夜深风起,凉气迫人时分,还真有点鬼魅的味道,因此叫它作“鬼街”也是相当的贴切。当然,肯定还有些勾引人们好奇的小心思吧。窃以为,这么一条“鬼街”不必象目前如此的宽,再精致小巧些,或许会更有些韵味,更“鬼魅”些。今天的行程让我们的确感觉到有点累了,所以也就在逡巡逛荡一会之后,随意找了家馆子,裹腹加歇脚。晚餐中有一道妻亲点的“羊蝎子”,实际上是羊腿骨挂肉,加入药材、调味在大锅中小火熬煮,可麻辣可清淡。吃将起来,一般皆用手替筷,方便撕咬、吮吸等动作的运用,还真有点原始的味道。听说这道菜相当滋补,有滋阴壮阳的功效,老少皆宜,特别适合秋冬季强精补髓之用。说来,这鬼街家家做的多是些“麻辣小龙虾”、“香辣蟹”等等,特别适合那些好吃麻辣、喜欢大快朵颐、胡吃海塞、大口喝酒的家伙们。
夜渐渐沉了,风也悄悄起了,鼓动着燃起的红红灯笼,使入夜后有些孤寂和晦暗的京城,象是多了些身着红裙翩翩而动的舞娘,舞动着长袖霓裳,诱惑着尘世俗子,渐渐迷失在现实与虚幻之间。或许就在这里,得意和失意、亢奋与低落的人们,不约而同地推杯换盏,寻求与体味着别样的世间情怀。加上我们这些好奇的看客,这也算是一道不错的风景线吧。
火红的灯笼渐渐连成了线,灯笼上有些诡异的“簋街”二字也早以模糊不见;,走过了街的尽头,回身望向红光的方向,却始终看不到它们的尽头。只觉得它们甚至都挂上了中天,曲折了起来,象是一条龙,不屈而执拗的红龙。
我俩寻到地铁站,回前门,思量着换个地方住住,就找了家无量宾馆。在新新宾馆后门隔壁,条件改善了些,尽管也贵了点,只是这样避免些住宿的乏味。之后,整理资料、收拾心情,好好休息,明天是周一,将开始令人向往和兴奋的故宫之行。
A night without dreams.
次日醒来,浑身乏力,真有点只愿终日长卧不愿起的念头。可故宫对于我们实在有太大的诱惑力,还好要到9:00钟才对外开放。就多眯了会,才收拾行装、退房、入住新店,不敢有过多磨蹭,匆匆用过早膳,就直奔将皇城方向去了。
重走昨天的路程。经过前门、正阳门、天安门广场、永定门,走过天安门城楼,就到了故宫博物院的正门——午门。我们的紫禁城之旅就此开始了……
故宫,又称紫禁城,是明清两代的皇宫,为我国现存最大最完整的古建筑群。这样一座无与伦比的古代建筑杰作——紫禁城,占地约72万多平方米;据说共有宫殿9999间,都是木结构、黄琉璃瓦顶、青白石底座,饰以金碧辉煌的彩画。这些宫殿是沿着一条南北向中轴线排列,并向两旁展开,南北取直,左右对称。 This not only runs through the axis of the Forbidden City, and Yongdingmen south, north to the Drum Tower, Bell Tower, runs through the whole city, the daring, ambitious, planning rigorous, and very spectacular.无论是从她的平面布局、立体效果、以及形式上的雄伟、堂皇、庄严、和谐,在世界建筑史上都可以说是罕见的,是五百多年前中华匠师们高超智慧的结晶。
故宫吸引我们之处,一则在于她建筑的规模和形制,以及从中展现出来的极具帝王震慑力量的皇家威仪。二则是作为故宫博物院所收藏的大量的珍贵文物,根据统计总共达1052653件之多,统称有文物100万件,占全国文物总数的1/6,其中还有相当多是绝无仅有的国宝。
我们在入口处租了自动讲解机,这样做是很有必要的。这种讲解机是根据电子感应的原理,当你带着它走到屏幕景点的区域,与设置在那的感应器感应,耳机中就会响起相应建筑和历史的解说词,还可以重复再听上一回。这对自助游览故宫的人们,应该讲是必要而不错的向导。
故宫的游览区域相当之大。走过三大殿之后,便进入内廷,内廷分中路、西路和东路三条路线。一般的旅游项目,都不外乎将天安门附近的景点包括故宫囊括在一天的行程中,这样算来,故宫的游览时间就最多只有半天,而半日游故宫,这三条线路也不可能游遍的,必定只是走马观花,听听说辞、拍拍相片而已,根本谈不上细细观赏品味和遐思一番了。走中路,可以观看到皇帝的寝宫(乾清宫),放置皇帝印玺的交泰殿,皇帝结婚的新房(坤宁宫),嫔妃居住的地方和御花园;东线主要有珍宝馆、九龙壁等等,西路主要是一些由格格公主们住过宫殿改建的展厅和尚未开放的地方。按照讲解器上的地图,我们选择先游览中线三大殿区域,然后折行至东线,游览珍宝馆、九龙壁珍妃井等等,再折回中线内廷部分,游览御花园、交泰殿和乾清宫等,最后进入西线游览,最后由神武门出,结束故宫的全部行程。
我们穿过午门。展现在眼前的又是一个很大的广场,远处的太和殿四平八稳地安坐在那,是那样的雄伟和巍峨,气派非凡。也只有眼前这样规模的广场,才足以印衬出那金銮宝殿的威严。走上通往宝殿的御道,不自觉地想要踏入那相当残破而崎岖的广场中去。在这样一片威严辉煌之间,它们并不会让人觉得一丝的不和谐和唐突,反倒还油然而生一种淡淡而深沉的怜惜之情;其实那些就是历史,最真实地保留着不知多少年前的模样,还有岁月无情而悄然无息的变迁。一块块突起的青砖,衬托着那一块块早以腐朽退蚀的青砖,一切都是在这样的无声息中渐渐的演变;就如同长城一般,我们看到那些残垣断壁、粗糙不堪的横截面、散落四处的旧时的痕迹,甚至只是些夯土,仅仅是一些黄土堆成的小疙瘩,都较之那些修缮一新,砖齐路平的新时代长城给予我们更多心灵的触动和感官的刺激。原因只在于我们能否直面历史,而不是面对附着在真实之上厚厚的粉饰;可往往要亲近这些真实历史,却必须经历非凡的艰辛和苦难,灵与肉的,深刻的,甚至是不计后果的疯狂。真的庆幸,那些劳苦的修缮者,不知是何种原由,使得他们遗漏下了这么一块真实的历史而没有横加修饰。无论如何,是该好好感激他们,就算他们不配。
过了广场上的金水桥,经太和门便是雄伟的太和殿了。在走进太和门的一刹那,不禁回头,从另外角度再注视那宏大的广场和广场中班驳青砖的身影,遥想当年皇帝登基之时,文武百官跪拜于此,高呼万岁,天地齐惊,实在是摄人心魄。在故宫最吸引人的三大殿:太和殿、中和殿和保和殿中,第一座大殿太和殿是最富丽堂皇的建筑,是皇帝举行大典的地方,殿高28米,东西63米,南北35米,有直径大1米的大柱92根,其中6根围绕御座的是沥粉金漆的蟠龙柱。御座设在殿内高2米的台上,前有造型每的仙鹤、炉、鼎,后面有精雕细刻的围屏。 The entire hall decorated magnificent, solemn gorgeous.而中和殿是皇帝去太和殿举行大典前稍事休息和演习礼仪的地方;保和殿则是每年除夕皇帝赐宴外藩王公的地方。三大殿都是建在汉白玉砌成的8米高的台基上,远望犹如神话中的琼宫仙厥。从高处看,午门进来广场的金水桥和流经广场的那条河,其形状恰象一把巨大的弓。我们在结束三大殿的历程后,就将近正午。寻了个阴凉开阔的廊檐下,妻将早已准备好的午餐小点摆得有模有样,象是个不错的郊外野餐。此时就完全不必狼吞虎咽了,悠闲是我现在所最愿意体验的感觉。细细地品尝着丰盛的午餐,回避着骄阳的亲近,端详着近处远处庄重威严的殿宇,玲珑精致的飞檐,还有飞檐上的小兽。铺开几张准备好的报纸,仰面躺将下去,望着清朗蔚蓝的天空,身体下面是厚重、博大和悠长的历史。深深地吸口气,微微地闭上眼,感觉到一股暖流传遍周身,再长长地将它们轻轻地呼出来,我甚至怀疑,这一切只是错觉,只是一个清晨半梦半醒的梦而已。
渐渐都有些迷糊了,妻的声音再次唤醒了梦中人,仿佛从天上又落回了人间。刺目的光线扎入了眼帘,眯缝着双眼,环顾四周,苍天依旧蔚蓝、大殿仍然巍峨、青砖终是老旧。时光荏苒,岁月沧桑,而眼前万物仿佛依然如故,没有一丝的变化;可人却会是正在渐渐的变老,白发也悄悄地爬上鬓角,眼下也已有了细细的纹理,一切也就在这样的悄然声息中变幻了模样。这就是生活,如果你只关注存在的表象,其实存在并没有隐瞒和欺骗什么,根本的只是人们意愿和侥幸地逃避和曲解。在怠惰和柔弱的本性中,他们更愿意去忽略掉任何不快、痛苦的因素。可这些存在的内在变化并不会就此抵消那些令人郁闷的要素,更会继续地郁闷起来。只要生活在继续,变化就在继续,那为什么还要无聊地逃避在表象之外,为什么不能勇敢地冲破表象,无畏地直面一切变化,了解其中最细微的,甚至最无情的变异。所以,我能够看到天空中浮动的云彩、大殿飞檐上尖尖的青草、由风扬起的青砖上的细尘……
午休结束,继续故宫之旅。
走完三大殿,穿过乾清门,我们就将进入故宫的内廷了,这里是故宫建筑的后半部,以乾清宫、交泰殿、坤宁宫为中心,东西两翼有东六宫和西六宫,是皇帝平日办事和他的后宫嫔妃居住生活的地方。后半部在建筑风格上大不同于前半部。前半部建筑形象是严肃、庄严、壮丽、雄伟,象征着皇帝权威的至高无上。 Netting the latter part of the rich flavor of life, building mostly self into a courtyard, a garden, den, hall pavilion, rocks and so on.在坤宁宫北面是御花园。 Imperial Garden, there are towering pine and cypress, rare flowers and trees, rocks and pavilions.其中两座名为万春亭和千秋亭的亭子,可以说是目前保存的古亭中最华丽的了。自然也会想起景山公园上卓然而立的万春亭来。
来到故宫,最大的目的就是期以看到那些沉静而韵味十足的文物展品。实际上在故宫数以万计的珍贵文物中,真正展出并能够让我们平民老百姓一睹其芳容的,却是少之又少,更何况那些旷世极品了。出于保护或其他什么原因,她们也都是养在深闺人不得识了。故宫中我们能观赏到部分文物的地方主要有三处,两处是乾清宫两侧由偏殿改建的展馆,分别是青铜器馆和瓷器馆,第三处是故宫东路上的珍宝馆。当然还有一些宫殿被建成展馆,诸如钟表馆、历代艺术馆等,只是我对于这些物件,并没有太大的兴趣,加上好些馆也不知什么原因都关门大吉,也就不太在意了。听说其中的珍宝馆中,展出一套清代金银珠云龙纹甲胄,通体缠绕着16条龙,形状生动,穿插于云朵之间。甲胄是用约60万个小钢片连结起来的,每个钢片厚约1毫米,长4毫米,宽1.5毫米,钻上小孔,以便穿线连结。据说,为制造这套甲胄,共用了4万多个工时。
我们首先来到了乾清宫两侧的展馆,青铜器是我最心仪的古代文物。重要的是在于它们的质感,厚重、博大的历史质感。那连接紧密的铸造技术,刻画精美俊秀的铭文,浑然天成的轮廓线条,还有那若隐若现的点点青锈,如果没有这些甚至都可以让人错觉为今天高科技水平造出的赝品,不过只要你我仔细端详这些历史珍品还是能够感觉到他们与那些的仿造品之间有所不同。只要你有相当的热情和专注,你便可以清楚地感受到那些来自几千年前的宝物在灯光下泛出的纯粹而美丽的光泽,纯然是不可言状的心灵感悟。你仿佛已经触摸到了历史的身影,仿佛就在铸造的现场,火热的熔炉旁,目睹着所有的过程,眼见打开坯模的一刻,完美而光彩夺目的青铜器皿呈现在世人面前。这一刻,在古人面前,或许并没有过多的欣喜若狂,而在我们今天看来,它们却是在历史的尘封和磨砺中多么幸运地来到了今天,沾染了岁月的风霜、留下了自然的腐蚀,依然完美和让人惊叹。此时此刻,这一切是无法让人割舍的爱恋和遐思,是如此的真切,但浮现在眼前的景象却是繁复而交错的,偶或捕捉到的一些清晰、片断的印象,彼此却错乱了空间和时间,而我也就自然而然迷失在了其中。解脱的方法只在移动的脚步中,变换的眼神里,走出这一片视觉的、感觉的恍惚中,自然就能够渐渐逃离过去、走回现实中来。每一次,端详和注视的经历和过程,都是一次与历史神交的心灵和感官的体验,也都能给予身心以相当的营养和收获,或许对于旁人而言是暂时无法确认和明晰的,但之于我,却是十足真真切切的满足……
参观完青铜器馆,参观另一个展馆就要从东侧走到西边。这里展出的是些瓷器、宫中生活的器物以及各种各样的历史遗迹。没有给我留下多少深刻的印象,就略过不提了。
绕过乾清宫,走上了故宫东路,这里有九龙壁,珍宝馆和珍妃井等等,没有参观珍宝馆,表面上是由于它需要另外交钱买票,其实钱甚至不是问题的关键。只是如妻与我这般倔强、迂直的家伙,当被一种态度“困扰”的时候,甚至是无法解脱和拐弯的,于是过其门而不入。紧接着,就走了一段长长的宫墙之路,高高的红红的宫墙,笔直的有些起伏而破落的青砖步道,不觉中抬起头来,往景山的万春亭方向望去。此时,前天旅行的记忆全都又悄无声息地被唤醒了……
走在青石板路上面,时而贴着墙根,时而定立路中,抚摩着有些鲜艳的红墙,摩擦着略微发亮的青砖。这一切其实是那么的普通而平常,却只因我们所接载的历史信息在思想和判断中形成了固化的痕迹,而我们的复杂难测,无法琢磨和潜质巨大的想象力,可以从中重新凝聚和激发起难以置信的意志表征和内在印象。真实的路途并不遥远,而思索的轨迹却是如此的曲折、艰辛,甚至一无所获、误入歧途、疯癫失常。人生的路或许亦是如此这般。
从东线路又绕回中路,我们就到了御花园、坤宁宫、交泰殿一线,这里就是真正的后宫重地了。也就是皇帝与那些幸福和不幸、得宠和失意、说话和听话的女人们,一起生活、工作和战斗过的地方。当然还有那些总让人津津乐道的一个男人与数不清的女子永远纠葛不清的爱恨情仇。与先前经过的那么些大殿相比,这里的建筑风格自然是细腻、秀美了许多,仿佛在这里,还能够在风中嗅到一些脂粉的香味,好象那几百年前的雍容华贵的女子们,并没有将这些女人香随魂魄一起带去,而是将生命中的乐与苦,年轻与老去,都凝聚在了这么些园子里,每一个可能的角落、甚至空气中。
再走到故宫西路,这里的建筑也大多是女人们使用的,是供公主、格格们和年轻的秀女们居住的,包括储秀宫、漱芳斋等等。其中以漱芳斋最是耳熟能详。一对来故宫游览的母女,年轻的女儿期盼而有些急切地向工作人员询问,“漱芳斋在哪里?”仿佛对于她而言,故宫只是一个可有可无的名字,只有她梦寐以求看到的地方,在她的眼中和心中才真正具有意义。而当得到了否定的回答“漱芳斋没有对外开放。”接下来,只有那母亲搂着孩子安慰的份了。我不难从孩子的眼神中捕捉到失望和哀伤的情绪,只是在其中,我还看到了执着和热情。在我的经验中,人所具备的执着和热情,甚至是随着年龄的增长而逐渐丧失和销蚀的;而同样是我的经验,当你期以驾御自如和得心应手地成就一件事、哪怕是再小的事,没有足够的执着和热情,想成功是难以置信的。无论是读书、运动、收藏、挣钱等等。
总的说来,故宫之旅,有些象我所正在炮制的所谓游记。开始时兴致盎然,渐渐原有的执着和热情不再那么聚拢和坚定,到后来就有点鸡肋的味道了。或许是兴趣点正逐渐在消逝和离我远去;或又是满足的业已满足,遗憾也的更加遗憾,已然不再有足够的空间来挤进些许感触了;更或是体力、智力和学识早已不堪负担了。于是,休息,也只有休息成为了现下的主题。消化任何的体验,没有足够的怠惰是不行的,就如同草地上横卧的奶牛那般的情景。
下午4点多钟,在神武门退还自动讲解机,依依不舍地出了城门,与“故宫博物院”几个大字合了个影,就离开了。
入秋后,京城的阳光就越显乏力了。也许是一整天大多时间都留在了故宫里的缘故,情感和思绪很难一下从中挣脱出来,一时间脑中空白,不知该往何处去?
这时,不自觉地又想起旅行与游记的问题。个人愿望总期以能够实现与众不同的旅行经历和完成惊俗流芳的言语佳篇,但局限于个体经验、素质、外部环境等等因素。真正实现的必定是少之又少,程度也会是参差不齐。至于我,要努力的知识使我的旅行和习作不致成为漫无目的的游走和琐碎冗长的流水帐。实现这一切的途径所在,首先必须有一个正确的态度,关于旅行和写作的热情和热衷。其次,尝试,毫不迟疑地实践一切可能的经历,并十足地收集一切由来的经验和心得。再次,培养独到的眼界。将收获的经验和知识,与了解的自我相中和,探索出一点能够满足自我进步和发展的思路。然后,继续在实践中考察和锤炼眼光和性格。这样反复修正提高的过程,就能使现实越来越快地接近个人的愿望。需要强调的一点是,在这其中,自我是最最重要的,千万不能舍本逐末,过分追求满足外部的肯定和共性。应该建筑在自我性格之上,努力追求实现自我性格的最大完善和自我价值的最高实现。当然我们并非排斥适应环境和从外部环境中获得肯定和补充的必要,相反这方面也是相当重要的促进发展的因素。
在公交站台上休息了许久,排遣着堆积的情绪、就白开水吃着干粮、寻思着下一站的去处,北海公园是没趣味的,局促而限定了的空间是无法在此时被接纳的。此时急需的是一个自由的空间,闲适而放松,甚至有一些无聊的懒散。
讨论的结果,目的地----什刹海什刹海,其实是后海、中海、西海和积水潭的统称。位置在北海公园以北,如同一个一个的小湖泊依次排列,中间以石桥连接两岸。其中最为有名的就是后海和西海之间的银锭桥,据说建筑该桥时,在桥的两端用银锭镶嵌在桥面中,故名银锭桥。听说那里非常的热闹,是一处风景与人景相得益彰的,融合历史和现代的不错的去处。我们从故宫乘车,到鼓楼,回头从一个胡同中穿过,很容易就找到了银锭桥。眼见为实,历史发展到今天,这里以烤肉季饭庄和酒吧一条街,当然还有那让人流连的银锭桥而闻名京城。饭庄经营特色饮食,常常是食客如云,趋之若骛者不免要耐心等待;而酒吧街则成了洋人们聚会的场所,有一些丽江的风范,临街户外而建,水流其旁,并且每家都各具特色和个性,主人都努力将自己的小店营造得温馨、精致和吸引客人。不过自然是无法与丽江相比的,因为这里没有丽江的高大神美的雪山草甸、古老神秘的纳西文化、清澈冰凉的雪山流泉,却多了些城市的焦躁、空气的混浊、还有那积水潭上空挥之不去的SARS的阴霾。
另外,这里本是恭王府的范围,又是京城有名的胡同集中的地方,形成了民间胡同游的小市场,相当兴盛和热闹。胡同游,我是没什么兴趣的,那只是好奇于中国历史的洋人们和遗忘了民族情结的“老乡们”,满足猎奇心理的需要罢了。总而言之,这里的现在延续、继承和发展了过去的繁华和闹烈。
这里的风景在入夜后就会有所变化了,因为当那时,风景的中心就已经转移到水的上面。两岸的垂柳在晚风中愉悦地摇荡,灯火的倒影在水中欢快地闪烁,海中泛舟的游船缓缓地彼此交错。一切都已安静了下来,连我们这些俗人也多少感觉到了平和的气息,也能够在繁复的人群中长长地吁上一口浊气;将身旁交错的人影、喧闹的言语多少地排遣在思绪之外。此时的风大了,吹动起放荡的思绪,不禁大口大口地呼吸着清新的随风而来的气息,甚至在呼吸都有些困难和急促的情况下,都还是不甘心停歇,仿佛希望让强大的气流涤荡躯体和灵魂的浑浊、郁闷和迷乱。原本是想到烤肉季去见识见识,只是不出所料,人满为患,侍者态度盈盈,恭敬地请客人们在店前长长蜿蜒的板凳上耐心等待,脸上总挂着满足快意而有些莫名的笑意。我们却十足不堪忍受此种甚至让人无懈可击、无气可撒的阵势。嘿,咱这暴脾气,那受得了这郁闷,撤,二话不说。还好,一会儿工夫便在附近寻到了一处不错的吃处,露天、居高、临海,正合我意,空间宽敞、气候宜人、可观“海”景、高处清凉……妻与我要了两扎冰啤,点了龙虾小菜,不觉口水横流,食欲旺盛,毫不顾及形象问题,大块朵颐起来,间或叮当碰杯狂饮一番,实在过瘾不已。不时又能袒开衣襟,迎着扑面而来的“海”风,实在是别样的爽啊!而真正制造这一切的,并非外物,却是我们自己啊!
夜已深,“海”风起得更狂了,吹拂着众人的发丝和心绪。人群却没有散去的意思,他们依旧在其中寻访着自己的快乐和忧郁,体会着自然与人性的冲突和融洽,各人或许都能在此地收获和失落,也都毫不迟疑地等待着,探求着,仿佛只有等到夜无比的深沉、天极度的静寂,那样的机会才可能出现;贪婪地过滤着看到、听到、触觉到的一切,好象那实现愿望的契机会象流星般稍纵即逝。这就是我们这些无知和贪婪的人类,将对满足和快感的疯狂体验的欲求和冲动,虚伪地深深隐藏和克制在灵魂的某处,只在情绪失控和极度失望时才略微露出些端倪,而我正捕捉到了关于我自己的愚蠢的端倪了。
返回了明天要离开的前门,那热闹而让人有些焦躁的前门大街、高大而有些落寞的正阳门。这只是暂时的分别,隐约中感觉还是会回来的,仿佛仅仅几日的相处,却已渐生情愫了。
妻学习的地点在北三环,在城区的西北面,离前门可有些距离,但距离颐和园、北大清华,往长城可就近多了。计划明天游览颐和园,主要就是出于交通和住宿方面的考虑。
第二天,考虑到交通、换宾馆和游览的时间安排,一早就退房离开了前门,赶往北三环方向。费了些周折,才找到先前预定的总政北太平庄招待所。虽名为招待所,实际标准挺高,达到了三星标准,关键是干净、设备新,环境不错。经过这番周折,收拾停当就近了中午时分。隔壁有一家东北菜馆,接下来的几天,基本是在此解决的吃饭问题。东北菜口味重,份量足,而且都会有招牌菜,中午就吃了他们的一道---烤猪手。味道相当不错,用铁针穿过,放在炭火上文烤,最后在撒上芝麻和黑胡椒,香辣扑鼻,外脆里嫩,口感奇佳,而且还不贵,一只猪手价钱6元,真是价廉物美啊!酒还是不能少的,这几天下来,倒好象沾染了些酒瘾,不拿那么点小酒配饭都有些不习惯。酒足饭饱,懒散得都有些不愿挪窝,可这旅行的计划排的满满的,稍微破坏一点都可能使计划无法顺利圆满完成,真有点为外物所役之感。话虽这般,与妻却也不敢怠慢,稍息之后,就寻路前往颐和园去了。我们乘公交车718路,往京城的西北方向去,大约一小时的车程,直达颐和园。
颐和园占地面积达290公顷(4350亩),其中水面约占3/4。整个园林以万寿山上高达41米的佛香阁为中心,根据不同地点和地形,配置了殿、堂、楼、阁、廊、亭等精致的建筑。山脚下建了一条长达728米的长廊,廊檐各处的枋梁上都绘有许多精美的彩画,犹如一条彩虹把多种多样的建筑物以及青山、碧波连缀在一起。整个园林艺术构思巧妙,在中外园林艺术史上地位显著,是举世罕见的园林艺术杰作。
颐和园原来是帝王的行宫和花园。公元1750年,乾隆皇帝把这里改建为清漪园。 1860年清漪园被英法联军焚毁。 1888年,慈禧太后挪用海军经费3000万两白银重建,改称今名,作消夏游乐地。到1900年,颐和园又遭“八国联军”的破坏,烧毁了许多建筑物。 1903年才得以修复。后几遭破坏,又几经修复,才是现在的摸样。
这座巨大的园林依山面水,昆明湖虽占了全园面积的3/4,但它的水面却并不单调。除了湖的四周点缀着各种建筑物外,湖中有一座南湖岛,由一座美丽的十七孔桥和岸上相连。在湖的西面,有一个西堤,堤上修有六座造型优美的桥。想那乾隆帝几下江南,对江南秀水丽人眷念不已,回京后便有了仿之修建园子的念头,于是就将兴修重任交给了一个外国人。从目前颐和园的建筑风貌来看,都能够明显看出江南几大园林的痕迹。它效法了江南园林的一些优点和特色,如谐趣园就是仿无锡寄畅园建造的;又如昆明湖、西堤、就如同杭州的西子湖和长堤;而园子里的苏州街,更是直截了当地照搬苏州水乡生活和商业的风貌。或许乾隆皇帝终归国事缠身,不可能常流连南国而忘返,想得紧时来这儿徜徉一番,聊以排遣那萦绕于心怀的对江南风景的眷顾和情思。如同风流的诗人,离开了风流的景致,是难以抒发出风流的情怀的。风景是变化的,对于不同性情、不同境遇、不同眼界的人,风景就是不同的样子,所以人又何时能够离开风景而感悟和体验呢?从车站到园门口这一段路,是让人遗憾而产生错觉的。我们无法从一开始就对这样一个世界级精美的园林油然而生仰慕和向往之情。因为实在是太脏太乱了,缺乏起码的规划、管理、整治和维护。我想,这样的局面并不仅仅只是由于城市管理的局限和欠缺,更重要的是我所提及的官老爷们的不作为吧!有学者将之称为我国政治生活中日益泛滥的具有普遍性的腐败,我是相当的认同。正如我所探讨的,风景其实是敏感、善变的物质,我不知道有多少人从这样的环境趋向所谓精彩的风景,会对风景的美好感觉打多少的折扣?弗洛依德针对大多数成年人都无法记忆起他们3—8岁时期的各类经历和体验的现象,研究认为这些记忆并非消失了,只是脱离了意识的层面,进入了潜意识,而潜意识却还总在影响着人们。这或许能够解释为什么我们总能梦见或回忆起似曾相识的模糊片段,它们闯入我们的意识中,影响着我们,甚至相当长的时间困扰着我们。对于风景最初的印象,可能被压制和升华,但并不会轻易消失。潜意识层面有足够的空间和愿望收留它们,并且至今还没有足够证据表明人类可以自由地操控潜意识,因而潜意识的影响作用是难以琢磨和估量的。对于颐和园,就是如此,兴许是自我性格原有的局限,颐和园在脑海中,已然丧失了一些印象分。
颐和园中,除了可以欣赏到巧夺天工的园林艺术,观赏各种古代建筑物也是相当重要的内容,园中共有各种建筑3000多间,几乎集中了中国古代所有建筑的形式,亭台楼阁、殿堂厅室、廊馆轩榭、塔坊桥关,应有尽有,除了木建筑以外,还有铜铸、石砌、琉璃镶嵌等等,有着极高的工艺水准和艺术造诣,堪称杰作。
颐和园的大门叫东宫门。以东宫门的仁寿殿为中心的一组建筑物,是当时的政治活动区。仁寿殿原名勤政殿,是皇帝坐朝听政的大殿。慈禧太后、光绪曾多次在此召见群臣,接待外国使节。现在大部分还保存着清代时的摸样,所陈设的铜龙、铜凤、铜鼎等,雕制均极精美。由于颐和园占地相当之大,对于我们来说,只能择其至善处览之,所以主要参观了德和园、佛香阁等。德和园是慈禧太后每年过生日必到的地方,它大体是在仁寿殿之西北,园中有一组戏园建筑,是其精华所在,也是老佛爷常常流连之处。
佛香阁,高41米,建筑在20米高的石造台基上,气势宏伟。据说现在这座巨大的建筑物是在被英法联军烧毁后,花了78万两银子于1891年重建的,是颐和园中最大的工程项目。这里是颐和园的中心和制高点,登上佛香阁,周围数十里的景色都能够尽收眼底,东面是排云殿,是前山最宏伟的一组宫殿式建筑群,是慈禧太后在园内过生日是接受贺拜的地方;西面是一座纯铜制成的宫殿,据说上面的十面铜窗户,在洋毛子的劫掠中流失到了海外,后来由华侨收购,使其安然回归。正前方就是昆明湖,湖中有南湖岛,十七孔桥是前往岛上的唯一通道,桥长150米,宽8米,是园中最大的一座桥梁,它西连南湖岛,东接廊如亭,上面雕刻500多尊石狮,形态各异,无一雷同。
我们俩在佛香阁消磨了相当多的时间。我无法象那些焦急、赶时间的游客们,匆匆地从这个景点奔向下一个景点。这本身关系到的是一种态度的问题,对风景的、对自我的态度问题,旅行的至高境界是将风景与我们自然协调地融合在一起,你必须去感知它,不一定只有亲近或触摸,但足够的诚意和充分的时间是必要的。我想真正的风景不在低处、不在近处;而在高处、在远处。就如十七孔桥,上到桥面,感受到的只是一座桥、精致的桥,而在远处、高处,你欣赏到的是如缎玉般美丽的曲线和结构,那本身甚至就超越的桥所能带给你的体验和想象。从具体的位置和角度看待,风景可能是相对死板而固定的,可在人的视觉和想象中却大不相同,甚至是截然不同。人们通过对美的感悟和理解,将所谓风景的元素归结组合到一起,添加进别样的灵感和想象,从而勾勒出一幅与众不同的属于自我的画卷。这就是艺术,甚至就是我们所追求的被世俗认为高不可及的艺术本身。
出了佛香阁,我们就没再去别的有名景点,随便在阁外长廊的一处坐下,找了个相当舒适的姿势,惬意和散漫地用视线打量着四周。高大而俊美的牌坊前满是合影的人们;步道上高举各色旗帜的人招呼着各色帽子的人们,匆匆地行进在漫长的古老的园子的路上,他们要赶着点到下一站去,没有过多的时间浪费在“无聊”的“散漫”上。那样岂不是太浪费时间、金钱和生命了吗?我时不时抬起眼,透过人群、牌坊和树枝,留连在金光灿灿、波光粼粼的湖面上,泛舟的人们或许才如我们这般闲适呢。走总时常较之坐着要来得匆忙和焦虑吧?可匆忙的人又怎么有闲暇来堆砌辞藻呢?而闲适的坐家们,却又何以能让堆砌出来的东西使人信服呢?人生也罢、写作也罢,总是应该走走停停、停停走走的。不论走在哪里,停到哪里,并不重要。随处都有足够的风景让人流连,只要你有愿望、热情和自我,就足够了。我丝毫不为没能到十七孔桥、南湖岛、苏州街等等地方而遗憾,我得到了我期许获得的,并将足够的时间、自我和热情倾注在了风景与我的交流中。我已然在灵魂中勾勒出了一幅关于颐和园令人欣慰和难以忘怀的画,作者只是我、读者也只能是我,必须如此。
与妻唠着闲嗑,时不时发表些奇谈怪论,惹来那丫头的阵阵轻慢。也罢,总得有人泼泼冷水,以免头脑过热,得不偿失、后悔莫及。自然也有不少精辟论调逗得小妮子傻笑不已,前伏后仰,责怪我又叫她容易长皱纹。尼采关于婚姻的论点是,婚姻的幸福与否只在于是否到生命的最后时刻依然能够谈笑风生。我深以为是。
来颐和园之前,已决定免了清华、北大和圆明园方向的旅行。前两者自不在话下,至于后者,来北京或者更早的时候,是期盼亲近的,纯然出自对历史、对民族的追思和感伤。残破和完整,与美和丑之间没有必然的因果联系,区别只在于观察者的立场和情感。后来却打消了前去的念头,先前的愿望是那么的强烈和迫切,想来那是有点虚荣和矫情了。并非我的立场和感情出了偏差,只是通过网络的了解,那里的景点已经残破不已,对外开放的少之又少,能亲近的更是寥寥无几,加之管理者的口碑相当糟糕。正由于此,先入为主的感觉进入了潜意识,并由潜意识影响了进一步的感情投入,最终影响了决定的形成。也罢也罢,扪心自问,对历史、对民族的态度依然强健而执着,并没有脆弱而经不得考验。不过那线条惟美的、残破了的大海法却早已烙刻在记忆中,它的美丽而忧伤的曲线,作为这样历史的传承者,我又怎能忘却呢?可我的族人们呢?他们又是怎样的态度和心情呢?我很想打听,希望他们较之我更加的强烈,使我能够自惭形秽一些,才可能变得更坚强些、热烈些、无情些。
在日暮黄昏,离开颐和园就回去了。
晚饭还是在门前的东北菜馆消费,妻亲点了那道烤猪手,也还是来了点小酒。这就是旅行生活的一部分,十足让我想起了寅次郎来。
晚上收看安徽台播出的《我拿什么拯救你我的爱人》,海岩作品,还不错。或许是在外面的缘故,或者是现在连续剧大多太滥,逻辑性太差,该片相比之下剧情、台词和演技、细节的把握还有些可取之处。最重要的是,一部电视剧或电影,逻辑性是致命的,如果从剧情、台词、情感和细节等等方面都毫无逻辑,牵强附会、心地不纯、不诚,那这部戏就是狗屁不如。这就是我关于电影和电视剧的态度。
天气预报周末京城有雨,心下不免有了一丝忧虑……
次日清晨,果然下起了阵雨,天气也凉爽了些。因为计划中明天登长城,而前面的旅行都还挺顺利,不觉担心万一大雨瓢泼,误了我的好汉之行,岂不抱憾。不过,以我的经验判断,这种临时起雨,特别是在炎炎夏日,长期干旱之下,必定只是过云雨,规模大不了,持续长不了。果不其然,这雨几个回合也就小将下来,我冒着雨丝,继续我的京城之旅。
今天的目标是国家博物馆,它在天安门广场的东侧,也就要重回前门了。转车来到了已经相当熟悉的前门大街。走在这里的街道,甚至都有些在家的感觉。今天,我减掉了所有可能的行装,两手背在身后或插在口袋中,象一个漫无目的的游荡者,轻松而无聊地在街头逡巡;打量着擦肩而过的路人,仿佛他们都是匆匆的旅客,而我才是这里真正的主人,我的眼神是对他们的审视和准许。从熙熙攘攘的前门大街来到了垂柳拂拂的国家博物馆,这里正在举行由国博、故宫博物院等单位联合举办的国宝文物展。各个参展单位都拿出些不错的宝物,听说还有不少青铜器,也正是吸引我的地方,于是就专程前来一睹为快了。进入展馆,直奔青铜器区,租了个讲解机,交由那充满磁性和浑厚的声音牵引,进入那神秘奇异的过去,感触那惟美雄浑的青铜古器。此刻,现实与历史已然模糊了界限,只有肉体还留在今天,魂魄却早以飘进了昨天的漩涡之中,被揉碎在所有已知和未知的历史尘埃里。今天,对于展品的记忆早以模糊了,但那深深触动和镌刻的感悟却是如此清晰。我能时常在思索中触摸到它们—关于那历史和过去的感悟。民族的博大精神从心灵深处涌动迩来的阵阵澎湃,涤荡着那些正在极力试图让我忘记历史、民族存亡的颓废和庸俗,它们甚至就是我自斗的利刃,使我始终堪以保持清醒的意志和成就日臻强大的战斗力。惟有这样属性的物质才可以和可能成为我追求和接纳的营养,所以我愿意始终热烈地钟情于它们。
一直在赘述旅行的林林种种,夹杂匆忙和闲逛、感悟热情与无聊,有收获也有彷徨,不过却也是难忘的旅行经历。感觉就象放风的囚徒,至少在某一段时间是自由而放肆的。在漫长没有自由和不能放肆的情形下,就算是仅仅一刻的变化都能体会到相当的快感和满足。九天的旅行已经用完了七天,明天计划登伟大的中国人独有的长城,它代表了中华民族龙的精神。我把它留在了最后,我想,最精彩和美妙的总是应该被留在最后。中国人尊崇善终,特别在乎画龙点睛和身后的口碑,我也一样,要把最让人振奋的长城之行在我的旅行中刻上最深重的一笔,只希望老天爷也能体恤我的一番心思,不要太过为难我们。
去居庸关、八达岭长城游览的交通方式很多。大体有两种,一种是乘坐“游”字打头的旅游专线车,有普通型和空调型,票价不同。这种车一般将附近的几个景点游遍,但最大的缺点就是时间掐的太死,到了钟点不等人,而且还是票跟车,误了这班车,票也就作废了。另一种是乘坐到景区所在县的长途车,919路,上车地点在德胜门箭楼下,也有普通型和空调型,还区分慢车和快车,空调快车走高速,到长城票价12元/人,头尾行程约1个来小时。在我独行京城的最后一个下午,还特地安排到德胜门进行了一番实地勘察,以便第二天行程的顺利进展。顺带一提,德胜门的箭楼在京城还是相当有特色和闻名的。听说是当年皇帝在此迎接打了胜仗,班师回朝的威武之师的地方。只是正在修缮,无法登临其上,一览古城风貌,遥感那豪气云霄,威镇四海的帝国阵势了。
时常感慨,伟大中华民族,何时方能寻回昔日汉武中兴,大汉民族之惟我独尊、号令寰宇的兴盛局面呢?又怎么才能不在历史浩瀚中落伍和退却,被历史的汹涌卷回潮流的深处,甚至最无情地劈个粉碎呢?还能始终在急流险滩的浪尖潮头,如一杆精粹的舵般,引导着历史的方向和进程呢?我以为,这一切的一切,就在于我们的族人们,是否能够致力于自醒自觉、自我教育、直至最深刻的自我解放。让最伟大的公共精神——为民族和后代奉献和投入的精神,引领我们在生活和斗争中更新我们民族身心上的每一个应该被更新的因素,直到我所期望的那一刻的实现。我的每一个族人都应该是英雄,民族的英雄,至少他们应该具备成为民族英雄的人格气质、勇气和热情。或先成为自己的英雄,生命的英雄、灵魂的英雄、孩子们的英雄、事业的英雄、斗争的英雄。而失败和胜利恰恰都是英雄手中的两把利剑,甚至失败较之胜利而言,更让我推崇,因为我从失败后的种种迹象就可以分辨谁可能、可以成为英雄了。
次日,依计划沿着昨日探访的线路向居庸关、八达岭长城进发。
中国的长城号称万里,好好算算,绝对不止万里。从教科书中我们得知长城西起甘肃嘉峪关,东到渤海湾的老龙头。可实际上在我国北方边陲的好多省份都有历史上各个朝代兴修的长城遗迹,而我们计划明天前往的是八达岭长城和居庸关长城。在北京地区,长城遍布在郊县的很多地方,值得攀登和游览的却并不多,其中以八达岭长城、慕田裕长城、司马台长城、古北口长城等较为有名。慕田裕以造型独特、司马台以气势雄奇著称,而八达岭是目前保存和开发最完好的一处,也是广大旅游者青睐的实现“好汉梦”理想的场所。由于这点,也正说明八达岭长城是最方便攀登的了,因为与妻一同前往,实在不好不顾安全而贸涉险地,故选择此处实现“好汉”之愿望。
八达岭长城和居庸关长城,位于北京昌平县,在市区西北约60公里处。居庸关是长城一个非常重要的关口,地势十分险要,为古代兵家必争之地。八达岭,就是闻名中外的八达岭长城和关城,建于明弘治18年(1505年),是居庸关的外口和重要前哨和明朝京城重要的屏障,居高临下,地势雄险。八达岭长城至今、已有近700年的历史,其所在的山叫军都山,山内是明朝的十三陵,过去此处皆被列为禁区,还特别为此增设了昌镇,总兵驻地就设在昌平。关城东窄西宽成梯形,建在八达岭口,有东西二门,西名“北门锁钥”,东称“居庸外镇”。长城就是从“北门锁钥”开始,往南北延伸。向南的一段通称“南四楼”,往北的一段则为“北七楼”。无论登上南北楼,临高眺望,长城宛如神龙飞天,巨蟒伏地,盘旋于燕山的崇山峻岭之中,不见首尾,气势磅礴,令人惊叹。
八达岭长城的城墙高大坚固,墙顶面宽5米左右,可以五马并骑,十兵排列并进。城墙外墙为堞墙,堞墙上有砖砌的一个个垛口。城墙内侧筑有宇墙(又称女儿墙)。这种建筑形式在中国万里长城中也是独具特色的;长城的城墙不仅仅是一个将敌人拒之门外的心理屏障,同时更是一座具有主动防守能力的城池,城墙上每隔三五百米就有一座敌楼。在漫长的范围中能够相互呼应,相互支援,使得本身单薄、容易出现突破口的单一的城墙连成整体,其中的烽火台更主要就是起着预警和传递敌情的重要作用。只不过有人妄以为乐,却断送了自家的王朝。看来,人是最可以开玩笑,也是最开不得玩笑的动物了。最低级和最深奥的就是那个狼来了的故事。其实不论这个故事真假与否,重要的是人们在自我生存和斗争中可以从中获得经验和感悟,越来越不会犯低级的错误,越来越成熟。这个过程是相互促进的,越能够驾御自我的思想和行为,就越能够从容不迫地处理生存斗争中的诸多细节,也就会拥有更加成熟的人性品质。
我们走进关城,并没有就进到长城的跟前,尽管早已在路途和远望中目睹了它们的真容。这里面是一大堆建筑和人群,有博物馆、电影院、餐饮设施等等。我们径直踏入城关口,这里正好是在一整段长城的中部,左边较短,有四个敌楼;右边较高,有七个敌楼。来此游览的人们,大都选择先上右边的长城,因此这段长城也相对拥挤嘈杂些。我们反其道而行,选择攀登较为清净的左边的小些矮些的长城。我只想尽可能地与长城静静地面对,而不是忙于穿梭在人声鼎沸的喧闹中,根本不能主宰继续前进或是停步歇息,连这都无以控制,何谈自我的旅行和体验呢?这一段的长城的确是静寂的很,甚至有些清冷,一是时刻尚早的缘故,一是刚才所说的人们的选择吧。我们可以说是在长城上闲庭信步,以至后来见过我们长城留影的人都十分诧异于长城己近空无一人的清净。先上南长城还不仅有这么些好处,从这里的进程中,还能不时注视那紧紧相连的更为高大的北长城。那蜿蜒逶迤雄伟的身形,在我们的攀登和注视中不断地变化着身形,似乎在为我们的攀登起舞。随着高度的不断升高,我们登上了一个又一个敌楼,敌楼里很阴凉但也异味十足,猜想是那些无良的游人随处方便的结果。当然这一路漫长艰辛的攀登,山里阴风阵阵,难保那么些人感了风寒,生理起了些反应,也算是这地方旅游设施滞后罪过吧。这段长城一个重要的特点是基本上没有一块长城砖是平整洁净的,几乎每一寸墙体都被刻上了某某人到此一游的字样。众人皆乐此不疲,兴致昂然。或许正如人们必须要在老毛手书的好汉碑前留影一样,这也是心魔在作祟吧。中国人对某件事情应该不应该做,实在是缺乏主见和坚持。普遍的情况是人们在刻字时找到了极好自我安慰的借口和心理平衡。那就是几乎所有人都刻了字,他们都刻了,我为什么不能刻,再说,法不责众,又真的能把我怎么地?如此一来,心下释然,就不会再有任何自责和顾虑,也就能沾沾自喜,安然走开了,只不定还有些得了便宜卖乖的爽意呢。这是怎样一种思维逻辑啊!另外,这段长城格外的新,每一块砖尽管在制作时都故意作了些仿古的处理,但却仍然显得那么的扎眼。走在这样的平整崭新的新砖大道上,舒适之余更多的是感叹那让震撼人心的长城精神的淡化。我仿佛在注视着修缮一新的什么庙,什么殿,却还自豪地告诉你那是古代的文物,可却没有一砖一瓦是凝聚了先人的心血、留存着古代的韵味。我不认为面对和置身于这些仿制品之中时,会有多少真切而刻骨的感触?所以,我一定要走到这段长城的尽头,因为在尽头,必就能目睹被粉饰者忘却的、真实的、原始的残垣断壁,那才是真正的长城,先人的杰作啊!尽管已破败,却依然折射出历史的辉煌,震撼出心灵的唏嘘,睹物思人、触景生情,这才是我们所钟情的风景啊。其实,我并不反对,人们开发旅游资源,为使更多的人能够亲近长城而将某一段长城修缮一新,在所谓的旅游中仅仅只需要走走看看,纯然不需要动一丁点的脑筋,就可以让人们不用动脑筋、不必费思量就能够在眼中直截了当地呈现出长城的模样,此时此刻,我有了一丝遗憾,甚至只是一闪而过,或许我原本应该辛苦些去看看慕田裕和司马台长城的,只因为那里的长城残破、危险和真实,仅此而已。
终于登上了南四楼的顶点,探出头去,让视线沿着长城展开,直到整齐和残破的交界面。那就是历史和现实的交汇点,好象只要就那么轻轻一跨步,便能从现实一下子回到那魂牵梦绕的古老过去,只可惜却被胆怯和铁丝网轻易阻拦,在可能的危险中丧失了获取体验的尝试。或许那些或有或无的所谓体验,在极其讲求实际的中国人看来,实在太过糊涂、可笑与得不偿失。这也是为什么在中国探险运动难以开展和普及的一些深层次的原由吧!
立定在那里许久,环顾着四周的风景,品味着过去的幻象。这时候,太阳渐渐出来,原来有些雾气的天空也明朗了,远处巍峨的长城也清晰了,显露出挺拔刚强的身躯。人群多了起来,远处五颜六色的人们汇集在本来宽敞的长城上,缓慢地挪动着,而我们所在的这一边,自然也没那么清净了。我们回到起始的关城,下一个目标是去攀登北七楼,以圆满完成八达岭长城之旅。这又充分暴露了我们追求完美和求全责备的顽固心理,甚至致身心俱疲也浑然不顾。当然,如此好或不好实在是值得商榷,至少应该是择善固执而并非凡事固执。不然,那就只是个愣头青罢了,没什么出息可言。
只是,该完成的任务还是必须圆满地完成。于是我们从关城口又开始了北七楼的攀登。 “北七楼”,言下之意,那可比南四楼高去不少。攀爬起来,还真有些地段艰险的很,台阶陡峭狭窄,再加上人潮汹涌,堵塞交通,导致我们举步为艰,只得随着兴奋而无顾其他的游人们寸步挪移。所幸过了这些“险关”,就相对能够轻松地穿越人丛,向下一个制高点进发。这里的城墙和敌楼与南四楼是相仿的,包括内部和外部的。值得庆幸的是我们在观察地形的时候,发现我们将不必在登临制高点后原路折返回关城口,想到不必再费劲地与那些个游人们亲密接触,不用再多费口舌,就已是欣喜若狂了。脚程也不自觉快将起来,不一会儿功夫,便到了顶峰。那最高处的敌楼被封了起来,周围满是人,有与碑儿留念的,这当然是要收费的;有忙活着刻制纪念牌的,那自然是要宰人的;反正是绝无高处不胜寒的意味。没有落脚之处,没有清净之所,没有可不摩肩接踵的可能。哎,呜呼哀哉。还是早些离了这是非之地吧。
沿着最高敌楼的另一面下“城”,的确感觉到上“城”容易,下“城”难。可以想象当年在这城上生活和战斗的士兵们,应该是相当训练有素的。这么一段长而陡的长城,往上走已是不易,而由上往下冲就更有难度了,再加上是集队行进,没有一定水平是难以实现战斗要求的。因为下城相对艰险些,也就无暇潇洒地伫足观景了,时间无多就绕回了关城口。因为门票包含参观长城博物馆和全周电影,本着不浪费的中华民族的优良传统,就前往看看究竟。全周电影内容太老,画质模糊不清,总体效果差强人意;长城博物馆内容相当丰富,特别是图片资料丰富多彩,让观者对中国各地长城的特色和有特色的长城都有了初步的了解和认识。另外,馆内按照一个循环线路引导人们参观,使参观者可以尽可能不走冤枉路和最大限度地看到所有的展品,是相当不错的一种安排和考虑。当然,由于展馆内容相当丰富,加上我们也有些倦怠,就匆匆和草草地走马观花了。
从关城出来,本来想到KFC用午餐。一则信赖其用餐环境,二则应该价钱公道,不会因为在风景区而哄抬价格。想想我们的同胞,一瓶矿泉水要翻一番,一碗面条要十几元,你跟他提意见,他还理直气壮地跟你较劲,“这里可是风景区,全中国都是这样的”。不禁哑然,生气是毫无必要的,改变也是毫无可能的,一切只能靠自己的智慧规避讹诈,再或是欣然承受了。遗憾的是并没有找到地儿。只是瞧见一家麦肯基之类的,进去一看,全然中式快餐,全然一般德行。遂赶忙溜之大吉。罢了罢了,顿时食兴全无,啃了点干粮,上车回城,再去饿补吧。
回到京城,依旧对KFC耿耿于怀,还是找了家,要了个外带全家桶回宾馆好好享用。晚上继续收看《拯救》的大结局,感慨不论是故事,还是影视剧,结局总是令人带有遗憾的。好在这部戏的结局还有些冲突,叫人有点意料之外。从一般观众的角度看待,总希望故事有一个明确而具体的结局,但对我而言,一部好的作品,需要作者或导演的残忍和无情,必须要让观众在疑惑、迷惘和困扰中煎熬,要靠想象力和意志力去给那些虚拟的人物安排自我意识和意志所愿意和能够达到的命运结局。
计划明天下午的航班返厦。
这次出来,也没有多少与妻逛街购物的机会和安排,心中不免有些不安。剩余的旅行时间就安排到妻仰慕已久的秀水街购物。
由于游览长城的疲劳反应,第二天,我们好好地恢复了一下,近中午才收拾行装,退了房,前往我们计划中的目的地---秀水街。为了轻装上阵地外出活动,我们先到北京火车站寄存了行李,这是我一贯的经验和原则,花小钱却能够轻轻松松地实现旅程的最佳效应。因为北京火车站距离我们乘坐机场班车的国际饭店也很近,这也是其中的原则之一,不过可千万不可在不正规的寄存处寄存,那可能会得不偿失,徒添烦恼了。
秀水街在永安门外,其实上就是在一条支路上形成的小商品市场。同全国各地的小商品市场一般,卖的东西也相差不离,闻名于京城的一个重要因素是因为这里洋人特别的多,而这里的小贩经过长期实践的锻炼和摸索,也掌握了相当熟练的运用外语进行吆喝、讨价还价做买卖的技能。市场里,听到最多的就是商人们吆喝的洋文,反倒是中国话听得少了;再就是那些不知高兴不高兴的洋人们大包小包地用黑色的塑料袋往回搬,不猜也知道里面是些什么。哎,对这么些洋人们,少见多怪了!就我观察,那里面商品,假冒的不少,价格也不地道,兴许就是给洋人们看的吧。也就难怪没多少摊主爱搭理我们这些黑头黄皮的同族人了。市场外的三轮车夫也能够操着流利的英语招呼洋人们光顾他们的生意,我就在想,这说外语也并非难上天的事,交流的关键是在于能不能懂,而并不在于刻意的模仿和教条。
到了秀水街,妻照顾我的脾气和身体,让我买瓶水和报纸在市场外等候,她自己到市场里享受逛街购物的自由气氛。我也就乐得清闲,寻了处背阳避风之处,享受起了我自己的午后清凉和闲适了,虽然这样显得有点那个,却也不失为两全其美的方法。
不久,妻出、空手、摇头、叹气“东西不咋地,要价倒高得离谱,连价都懒得还,纯粹是骗老外的、骗那些傻不拉叽的外地人的。”空有其名,这是妻对其久仰已久的秀水街的总体评价。这个地方并不会给我留下多么深刻的印象,就或许如同我在街头看见一个洋人的感觉而已。
随后,我们就到附近的超市给亲朋好友们尽点心意;取了行李,到国际饭店乘机场班车前往此次北京之行的最后一站---首都国际机场,一切顺利地飞回了厦门。
我的旅行就如宇宙的存在,也象那阅读和观看着的人生悲喜剧,没有人晓得终点应在何处?也不知结局该是什么?
我的旅行是一条长长的河流,北京旅行甚至只是其中的一个浪花。
至于我的旅行记载,也没有开始、更不会结束。记载就只是痕迹,曾经的痕迹,如同从流水中舀起一瓢水,将它倒回去就又了无痕迹了。
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作者:marxlyly