Journey begin
I think that is the end of the road in front and did not want it is a beginning.
Prior to this for a long period of journey, I am convinced that Yangshuo is an ideal romantic town of birth, or at least to get some rest.
I thought dragged his exhausted body down from the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, the eye does not look This is called the scenery in Guilin city, self-serving come to this, pushing a wooden porch of the pub, feeling a lovely service smile, cling to each other comfortable chair, a cup of points on the rocks of the whiskey - the kind of red roses, and then out at the scenery while memories of a rare side of immersion of alcohol, relaxation, indulgence, eager to see too much suffering comfortable guilty soul.
I thought the waitress took me some very young, seventeen or eighteen years of age, with a clean hair. She may not be beautiful, development of immature petite body can not be caused by a dirty fantasy, but it can bring the eyes and ears of the sober, this is a girl living in the landscape in unique Xiuse, contains pure and spiritual. In this connection, we may talk to a number of irrelevant topics, such as have occurred in the various romantic and may experience all kinds of joy.
In December, such a season, not too many tourists, making West Street pub can really become a pub, like a club, you and I, as well as the lovely waiters and passers-by passers-by have A, harmony inside, chat drink Tea, the beginning of some insignificant ridicule, as if the whole world to a small round table inside the wooden porch, the same as I do not know sadness, no pain.
Ah, I will tell myself that this is the life, present life, Red Wolf's life, quiet and peaceful life, no doubt will not be disturbed destroyed.
A thousand miles away and that the decomposed corpse children do? Will continue to decay Come on, this regardless of my business, I can do is leave the burial of the yuan, to do to vent their extreme fragility of compassion, and then catch the train to leave the body lying horizontal city, continue to travel ... ... or to escape the petty bourgeoisie magazine is full of romantic Yangshuo, a glass of wine, forget that many.
The winter of 2002, the Central Plains the snow, the stench of corruption and the erosion will be temporarily covered with white snow, and then the cheers of the people happy New Year.
And I choose a small town called Yangshuo, as the end of travel and ushered in his 20-year-old.
Road
Do you think your journey to Lilian, you want access to rolls of books of knowledge and thousands of miles way seen or heard.
Now, after all these years, you walked the streets than the last Red Army, and you did not read the books there are thousands of 10000, but why, compared with the beginning, you did not feel enriched it? Increasing the pace of in-depth the world, this country, the more you doubt, many in the past from the knowledge that the books have been gradually see the reality of defeat personally, and then continue to let you read the life of even greater suffering. Ordinary, everyday occurrence, and accustomed to suffering around you, just let you see, so you hear it the best script, than all Shakespeare's masterpiece is true, as long as a reach out gently, you can touch perception, and even with the best actors of the tragedy to talk face to face.
Oh, you feel what? Cold, rancid, the lack of anger and devoid of wisdom.
There are more pressing desire for truth.
This is your fellow citizens, rich and beautiful city magazine describes living on the land other than the compatriots.
The most inferior of the Green Paper on the train compartment, you terrible people caught off guard opposite side, you doubt your own eyes - those eyes are really clueless about the so-called human beings like you come from Mody?
Rough, dirty, dark skin, and that only long-term not to clean up the trash in order to emit the smell - the most frightening thing is seen in their eyes is no hint of thinking temperament, great ignorance mixed with, solidification of the air.
You scared, you back, you said that you go in-depth experience of working people live, do you think a student from the remnants of southern rural experience enough to get you to cope with everything, but now you only realize that their own wrong, naive, so that their fear of .
So for a while, you looked at the windows of Retention gap, an impulse to jump out of the non-inhibited hearts and minds of Flaring fragile.
This is how it?
You do not have a commitment to make a SAGA Mody? You're not always talking about the romantic landscape of the motherland travels Mody? You do not always claim to want to travel in the wonderful story of leaving the text Mody?
Your endless journey has always been such a fantasy as the romantic stories, such as a body Jiaohao Manhuaixinshi woman sitting opposite you, looking out the window, wistfully, with the train bumps melody, your state of mind was gradually led . Wind into the car, a heavy braking, lower berth newspapers scattered in one place, you stooping Qu Jian, bowed his head but just to see her body would have to squat, reach out to pick up a "Trendsmag", then the above is also close to the sexy leggy blonde, do you remember like a supermodel, a long string of names, there have been what should be declared a sex scandal dyed Unfortunately, the specific unknown - but it does not matter, you have found the topic, so formulaic lines were started.
The result?
Train indeed bumpy, your opposite is also true there is a woman - at least not look like a man, her chiseled facial features, such as the Shanghai Museum, a very ancient human bones showroom, Yuanmou, or Beijing's ... ... In addition to bones, The remaining black skin, even if separated from such a distance, can still see the washboard like wrinkles, like men, grass-like hair, gray-black of the jacket, clutching do not know what the food swallowing the saliva, deep concave turned over into the white, black eyes, turning from time to time, make you believe it is alive.
Such a woman sitting across the aisle you are, wide fat ass Crimping Baby's luggage under the straight Leng Leng's watching you.
This is what you imagine the romantic Mody?
Can accommodate 120 people in the cars, stuffed with no less than 200 such people, when you got up and carrying a backpack of 50 liters JackWolf time, everyone staring at you, many still not be proud of in your eyes, shoot him, so that you hair bone Song Ran just want to find an excuse to leave.
Ah, the beautiful scenery between the compatriots across this I do not know what this travel magazines have recorded them?
Rhythm gradually I feel very comfortable and cheerful.
The seat luxury bus with neatly printed "Jiangsu Yaxing" message, home car, produced from the Mercedes-Benz passenger car plant in Yangzhou. Sitting thousands of miles outside the car home, this comfort is special, as if this trip will be exceptionally safe.
An hour through the mountains and water, road, to Yangshuo has.
The same imaginary place that is a parking lot not far from the famous WestStreet, where there are a lot of unique, but also only interested in the existence of the pub.
I know it is different from the Hengshan Road or the new world, Yangshuo pub significance of the existence and common mountains and rivers just loving person ... ... Although It has not been to, this belief is unparalleled dedication. I told myself it would not be Zhouzhuang, Tongli, like packaging material desires of making money.
Long journey across half of China came here, hoping to find a favorite pub quiet drink.
The first meal is actually the noodles, the center of town to the locals to do a small shop as early as possible, has not been documented in any of a travel manual, the furnishings simple, but steaming arouses the appetite.
Base of the hill is the kind of high fresh-baked dumplings steamed stuffed buns, steamed dumpling, suddenly the sour taste this southern Guangxi fine, combined with enamel bowl fragrant dry sea-mix noodles, red is the material, green is onions, which is a meat-like paste round and round At the end, as long as a bowl of thick solid fifty cents, accompanied by a cage snacks, the whole becomes a perfect breakfast.
Wai, East Asians in the table behind, muttering with did not understand the language of Zaza's facing the shop owner, I think they compliment, at least on the face looks good, then fed a companion began to ponder which is Korean Or the Japanese ... finally concluded that such a tasteless Koreans wear clothes that only come to ...
Today the weather is good, so the first thing a disaster took place, wallet empty.
In fact, I still can not figure out how the thief can touch the means superb walk my wallet, sending it back, also left tens of dollars a ticket for my small pocket money without being noticed ......
Documents, passports, credit cards Yigai lot, but thick pink yuan a couch no more, and the remaining pieces of money about 40 tickets - I feel that if the other party and then leaving a note that this is even a tour dramatic of the.
Hard to think of something and looked blankly in the streets, serial, but after the cattle pull wooden handcart, motor 3, there are Giant's latest sports car, two or even three travel bike, looks like a circus From the street in single file while the same before, this scene makes me immense interest. Then the weather, the bigger the fine, peer just right to tell me the right to buy a sunny day when the money, after all, Guangxi has been raining for a long time, rarely out of the sun - this is a more acceptable excuse, I am even unable to control their own thoughts, thinking about the possibility of pub called on all to come along with the tourists asked me to drink to the table to thank ......
A definitive end to ideological walks out of the Shop seems to have taken place in an exciting a good thing, the result would have just walked up towards the threshold of thin noodle shop owner face helpless laughter ......
nod, forget pay for the ......
Sunlight is really getting better and better, even peer guides are lamenting do not know where's the good weather, wet clothes to dry in a few days.
The Wizard is a voluntary coming do not see the older woman, like all of the village has a thin body like bones, wrapped in a neutral jacket next to the skin, a non-compliant is not ugly long hair draped over his neck and a natural, and beautiful involves no connection between them, but not ugly intolerable, why it so long now that we have not subjected to cruel rejection, and even the "grabbing" of our heavy food bag, then vacuum-packed inside Gaoyou double yellow duck eggs.
In Guiyang, when I developed a deal with the nag companion stick people "pimp" a unique skill, generally positive towards each other suddenly, in unison shouting "god with you!", And then embrace with open arms of Allah like to do. This image of the beggars who sit in the station soliciting persons, underground market to sell "life movie" caught with considerable effectiveness, combined with our strange clothing and deliberately strange accent, usually scare off the other side - of course, encounter such an act two serious blow for the first time in Yangshuo WestStreet, decumbent can not leave a beggar responded: "how are you ?"...... second time still Yangshuo, encountered this guide, and she respond to my "god bless you!", and then started fluent London cavity exchanges along these lines ......
The future direction of the uncertain and unpredictable, when the dedication of the Girl Guides raise money, one afternoon, five guides and time-consuming, we have decided not to insist on the idea of self-help, coupled with transport and a total of 15, is also responsible for band Let's from the the back door to enter the big banyan tree area, replacing dozens of yuan tickets, plus bonus one-hour bamboo raft drifting free time ...... the occurrence of this kind of thing never would not have been documented in travel manual.
I am curious to ask why, I thought the London chamber of mountain women would say that the responsibility attributed to the Asian financial crisis or the United States attempts to attack the Iraq issue, and she told me that this is a tourist off-season, off-season when the boring local guides were also looking for a small excuse to pass the time.
Probably from this time onwards, I like this piece on the landscape Yangshuo.
Dinner style meal aisle location, behind the poor capacity of the hot water boiler at your fingertips.
This convenience makes you a little comfort, at least for the time instant noodles do not need to cross-shop Minesweeper like human flesh across the corridor.
Can not be denied the spirit of your cockroaches on the road to play well and beat to death be able to overwhelm, even under such adverse conditions can also search for spice of life.
Saola table melon shell, covered with a "clean" of "the Economic Observer reported," remove heavy luggage bag of dry food - made in Japan instant noodles and vegetables in Italy, four-year Zhangyu dry red wine, vacuum-packed phoenix wings crystal elbows, tempered glass cup (you said to use paper cups hold wine is a kind of a throwaway sin), there are other snacks, like trophies on display. Scarves wrapped across your fellow apparently frightened by such a lineup, and conscious lift arm, loose narrow desktop, so after a few minutes steaming dinner began.
Now you, as a drilling of new nests of cockroaches, quickly adapted to the inside air.
Weird mixture of the eyes and coughing sound, and even the conductor has to stop and watch the wonderful scenery, you reach the peak of despair, as if accustomed to all of this, slowly white handkerchief on the tube, holding a plastic knife and fork Sisiwenwen to swallow a ham, and then drink instant noodles soup, Xie Xialai end, I did not forget to taste red wine, lips gently dip - you feel a little astringent taste, and should be a bumpy train sake, so you wipe the mouth, followed by taste crystal bright white meat slicing elbow.
You looked up and saw three rows of seats separated by a little girl stood back and watched you Liekai mouth, eyes clearly fired at the hands of a barrel potato chips, her face fairly white skin braided Mawei children, grasping a half of a orange peel, orange and white clothing has been groping hands, pan-black, this means that a child may not look clean, so clean and tidy - but this does not prevent you to make sarcastic self gentleman moves toward show her Brazilian barbecue taste of "Pinky", exposing a friendly smile, on behalf of share, only to see the result of this action and the fear of a pair of eyes, then stood up and cracking a bearded middle-aged, the girl took Silver Bears in the position, until the group of tailed disappeared in the dark green seat at the end, you realized that the stare angrily adults you look like a kidnapping of children, criminals, as you took out the candy so gentle, we face the minor girl to say "come , uncle to give you candy. "and then an innocent girl from slip and began a bitter tragic human tragedy, telepresence full disclosure in the" Southern Weekend "on account of sub-headline, illustrated the text read like anger Like martial arts novels enjoyable - you remember what observable by name even one who can not help but sigh so there must be considerable length earns royalties.
Look at you, want to go where.
This wonderful dinner Leighton orderly conduct of a long time, the night was deep, and you are wrapped pile of debris, together with the hard shell inside the box of instant noodles to vent their anger with the bunched up into a gigantic ball, turned and thrown in the bin - but to hear "yo" is heard, looked back, then half the height of containers actually sit on a pair of men and women, bleary-eyed face of a sudden attack. Junk ball just landed a woman cross legs cross one's legs between the superficial stimulation of the right to wake up from sleep, you wanted to panic the interpretation of what that guy saw suddenly stretched its hands into the subconscious Trash to explore, so you immediately have played a fear by the mood, a frown wrinkles away.
You to a sideways, not psychologically prepared for a little chip on the costume of the saw only the scene, minority elders, dressed in old books, the novel only held out the water pipe, the pipe green arm than in the elderly but also sturdy, you want to laugh, pulled out cameras to take pictures, find out what it remembered the camera remained in their seats, your heart was astonished, hastens to turn around, Yi Sha elderly people would forget the strange events.
The camera is still, digital, and you have to post a car filmed on the Ma On Shan, photo conductor, but also on the spot through the LCD screen showed him what was going on, but did not think that middle-aged man was very disappointed muttering "how so, Laila could not take pictures, "you certainly can not explain how to use Epson print them out.
The camera still attached to that place, but your subconscious mind has always thought that the passive-off, and start with the seat which could be around any one person ... ... or even the whole plot up cars to take over your Olympus to think that you're afraid of , look around, it seems that the eyes do not have plans. You have to sit down, put valuable things are worthless incorporated into the backpack.
Loss of a woman sitting on the ground looking at you, start playing in the swing I do not know how long the orange.
22:25, the train communication followed by sleep time, sleeping with ordinary cars would be closed between the channel and radio to stop as well, until the next morning at seven.
Sweep sweep of vision loss you have a group of the same car passengers, bind tightly cell phone across from backpack and slowly go out.
Has not left the aisle looking on the face of poor conductor block, she also remember your strange behavior, she warned you the next section is a sleeper compartment, do not affect others rest, you have no choice but to pull out soft sleeper plates, was a conductor the snatching, bitter sweep you look at it, over and over again the authenticity of the study for a long time before they have been reluctant to open locked doors.
You have done a deserter, wanted to uphold the 2000 kilometers of the people appreciate the journey, the results of the first night so terminated.
Heard the rattle of the lock the door behind sound, you turn the last two layers of glass separated by a saw carriage, as if you had been the original location near the door sleep on the floor of the mast to the women's preemptive step of sitting, causing dissatisfaction with some of the guests around you know it's nothing, as long as the woman got up and the last toilet seat will once again become the ground floor were a number of non-seat race goals.
Ah, you think of trash on the men and women, may be spherical in garbage bags have been opened they looked at it ~
Tickets are 17 money under a large banyan tree Third Sister Liu story.
In ancient times there is legend in Guangxi Zhuang Gexian Third Sister Liu, a tour of the cottage the way they sing Guilin, over the Elephant Trunk Hill, Duxiu Peak, Diecai Hill, was fascinated by feng shui, to coincide with Guilin drought Gexian came to Crescent Hill The hole sang a rain, awoke the old hermit dragon, just listen to sound of wailing is heard, Po Kong clouds away, the sky deep-fried a few Menlei immediately poured heavy rain fell Gone with the Wind, from octagonal pond filled with water, the , Lijiang River navigable, and fish fat, and Guilin, who lived a good life for generations.
Of course, the real so that it should be a well-known opera "Third Sister Liu", the director who is forgotten, composer Lei Zhenbang down always remember, probably because this is a new China's first opera, chanting. The Japanese returned the outstanding composer of the folk songs have a considerable understanding of the foundation, after the "Why Are the Flowers So Red", which are still popular classic - the first time I heard this song is the modulation hackberry version feel strange, sing together Daoting have taste.
Praise for the opera itself, the class struggle under the love story was a bit dismissive sense, it seems to happen and are just so simple, gratuitous love, gratuitous dead set, gratuitous together, gratuitous ending, the last prince and princess had a happy life, both traveled Guangxi, will be spread throughout the world folk songs. Sigh and say, history is really a simple and pure love something - or if Yangshuo-like landscape where suitable breeding such a direct reflection of the love without the brain, the book said, this is romantic.
"Which lived to 99, Nai Heqiao upper three years."
I was looking for a romantic, not a lifetime.
Sure enough, the London chamber of the wizard will send a bamboo cutting our free, waves bottomed out in a tributary of the Lijiang River, oh, so clear water is only seen in Jiuzhaigou, but that does not allow visitors to touch, the green like copper sulfate .
Lijiang River water is alive, inside plants, there are fish, there is reflection, as well as my hands - if not in December, I vowed will jump to swim!
For a long time did not feel like real water, filled with pure atmosphere, calm nature, reach, calling me close, touching, integration, I believe it will wash wounds with the past, like a gentle woman caress my rough skin, away fatigue, in exchange for Dousou spirit. Yes, I love this water, after quite a long time, I have decided to live in the Lijiang River side, all day looking vibrant touch of clean water, reflection, there are mountains, sky, birds are banyan tree has good people, as well as fish .
Old fisherman turned his head, rose a red face, I think he must drink it immensely at noon, but also in such a beautiful afternoon on the sun surface, life may be happy.
He asked what we want to go to the lake side, large banyan tree to the outside of the lake between the island, I said, Well, so the fisherman punting in that direction to the side while muttering the afternoon the weather, suddenly I feel something is missing, so I said, you are rest assured boatman go, let's subsidize you some, will not let you in vain the time delay in the afternoon, the old fisherman who turned his head flew into no where no where the price of companion that you open a bar, let's take someone by sea, in vain felt quite embarrassed, refuse for a long time, old man says, then the person on two dollars a bar, under the island, I wait for you until you get back will be also.
2 money? He said the U.S. dollar Mody?
I still remember the cost of introducing YouthHotel trip stays on the written Yangshuo bamboo cutting 70 yuan starting.
So we have this money paid 4 yuan in exchange for the afternoon of cutting the bamboo rafting, also age in 1700 to protect well-photographed large banyan tree below. Go back to the shore, when excited with our guide, such as telling this matter, London cavity woman faint again at night to say that the Lao Jiugui filling a yellow soup.
In Yangshuo, the cost of daily life are guaranteed, and all would be sufficient.
I do not know how to think of Bangkok, Thai people are so casual, groceries earn enough to live on a day on closed their doors, faint ~
When the sunset back to West Street junction YouthHotel, 206 West Street, Room confident the whole scene the best one, two-storey hotel at the main entrance is at the top, as long as open the windows, all the visitors and the landscape on the city from my noses through, it is easy to cause a sense of accomplishment.
Only Shanghai in east China have YouthHotel, also hide a particularly deep, to find a few back are missing, so most of the people do not often go out do not know if the convenience of the International Youth Hostel, of course, the most direct benefit is low, such as my shop the soft sheets There are air-conditioned standard double room bathroom as long as 50 dollars a day, if the discount card can, if willing to go to earth, they are only 15 8. Lijiang, Yunnan, heard in the world except money, a bed 8 cheaper than here, Oh, so immediately I was the boss of CYTS position to Yangshuo - then let's go to Lijiang!
Another advantage is that all countries will gather interesting people here, early teen or even younger, the Japanese lone teenager, a pair of beautiful sisters in the U.S. I do not know where they came from the first meeting on the gentle greeting of mixed race beauty ... ... ah, but also there is nothing I can say that in December of this day, are living in this small hotel on the second floor.
Dawn of the feeling we have to go out the natural Yangshuo in the evening that we have to come back began to prepare a certain pub at night the party, late at night, we have to come back to sleep; and then we come from all over the world, no matter what kind of people of faith have at least points the same - love nature, advocating freedom, like the gregarious societies, willing to meet new friends.
Is the youngest, romantic elements are perfectly in line with each one, and young and no burden to bear pressure.
Taste of the "No Hotel" famous snake Rougeng, drinking fresh juice, I am waiting for the arrival of the dark.
Chen did not promise, but also do not need to Nai Heqiao upper years.
Singing and old trees
Hakka folk songs, nine transfer cavity 18, if we really like movies in general, Third Sister Liu would be proficient in all, I am afraid life is to consume energy. Is free and open to folk songs, and probably many of the scripts may sing different words represent different meaning, may be familiar folk melody master really be able to compile all kinds of tunes adapted to local conditions, but also fluent in singing out, like the Han Chinese Yin poetry Chukouchengzhang. Metrical constraints and the different poems, even an illiterate mountain guy can create their own folk songs, sing loud, sang himself to hear.
Walking in the Zhejiang Province inland a certain unknown Hill, listening to the singing mountain side, you can not help but have to yell a few words, but the lung cavity where love love love it apart from a few, and the remaining is the "Mitsue popular ".
Suddenly you feel the inadequacy of their own language and stupid, blurted out before the general need to think about whether the strict logic, whether it is reasonable sentence was intended to result, the words never withered Flaring non-natural, Zhuoben children seem to learn language.
Singing accompanied by mountain big eyes staring back tired, see you, ask how to say do not sing?
You are unconvinced smiled, suddenly mustering the enthusiasm to cry open to:
"Snow Mountain grass! Beautiful lamasery!"
"Endless girl! On the endless laughter!"
... ...
Fortunately, the memory of your own there is a last remnants can still cry the natural sound of the music the moment you understand the boundaries of what can only be air-conditioned room and listened to, and which can only echo in under the neon lights.
When you forget the existence or non-existent when the blurred emotions, but also what kind of songs?
Symphony of Destiny? Carmen? Beyond? Children's songs? Minor self-compiled?
Yes ah, they are music, there is no distinction or distinction, when you need to melody, when the sounded crisp keyboard, then flow to open, the more rampant only, soaked the foot of land, intoxicated inside, trembling throat, break elastic force moving vocal cords, with their own melody, you hear the mountains in response to your voice, whistling sound of the wind in response to your music. One's whole life so truly feel the first time the existence of their own voice, not loudspeakers, flash, that moment, you become a hero, and endless landscape is your stage, bird fish insect forest beasts are your audience.
You're shouting, in the screamed hysterically, forgetting himself, but also Zhang Yang himself red in the face of the carried away, until the throat choked unable to pronounce the sound.
You are tired, you big mouth of breath, and you are looking at the distant mountains and began illusion that there is a deep black triangle above the piano, a child through music room like you see it frame under the door locked, never open the keyboard, but never people to move to and fro.
Now you are a hero, you are a musician, you want to wind to the summit of mountains, overlooking the earth, ringing it with the piano, in accordance with memories as if born with a temperament press the finger, tapping rhythms, the sound spread thousands of miles, to the home, you let them because of your musical genius and embarrassed ... ...
Oh, you always like to fly without the purpose of their own thoughts, friends said, would be too long here for a long time imaginary disease, such as the distant mountains only a few hundred meters high, not enough to bird's eye view, your fingers are inherently slow, even the guitars are all bomb played a stammer, so do not fantasies.
Like your music, but you may still act as a mountain guide, his smile exposing Han Han, saying that this energetic. Some years later, the first mountain you climb in life, breathe the pure air, and Meng's sing this song - peers who fear quickly Cover your mouth, God, ah, no one wants to experience the legendary avalanche.
And then climbed over a col, you are looking for fellow Confucian at hand, and he lived long, long time, as if for life, from your grandfather is here, when Zouchudashan alone, study his knowledge, gossip, or Book of Changes Yunsheng celestial phenomena, these mysterious knowledge is you do not know, your grandfather told you such a person exists, they want you to imagine an old pedantic solitary half-century stay in the mountains can study anything. Xing XU, he has moved from an ancient, yellowed volumes were found on the wisdom of the future might even inspire.
He must have white-haired, whole body exudes elegance, only a pair of eyes, a trace of glory, watched you gave do not bite, only to you at a critical time of the test, finally exposed satisfied smile, feel the beard, be regarded as awards, you will get books there is no knowledge.
But in fact, he may have died, the mountain that seemed to lead the way for many years at the market did not see him, you know it carries great wisdom of the elderly with the majority of outcome is just enlightenment ideas buried, a lifetime of knowledge into loess, to the mountains, so that knowledge does not seem to use.
But you think he is out there waiting for you, or at least should tell you what eyes closed after, so more like a traditional RPG plot, and then young person, you master the mysteries of ancient wisdom to begin a new journey, novels are not so written.
In fact, you have come to his real purpose is simple and boring, to help it verified elm tree outside the village history, village literacy, help the elderly want you to Grandpa's stories of trees they will be reported to Zhe Ke cultural sector, better the protection of ... ... let the poor villages will therefore be concerned about the mountains there, not all bamboo and wood, as well as people, anxious to be brought out as the building of wood, like people of the city.
The following is the unique mountain huts pit, but fortunately it is winter, smell no smell.
Open the door to greet you is a Heishou old, withered head to make you feel even when I was younger, he is not really look elegance - of course, refined this is not something external, so you also look forward to pushing Meet the door literature, listen teachings.
At least for the elderly is still alive, this is the surprise.
The only grasp the exact age of trees for the elderly is still alive, elm village, the villagers do not have the expenses for the experts to identify worried.
Can you hear is broken gong sounds in general, old people excitedly talking about the past few years of good harvest in the mountains, mountain side of the village can be kinds of rice, and a home Waer admitted to a county high school ... ...
You expect great intelligence?
Old Lie Kaizui Pakistan, exposing yellow teeth, bite-made Han Yan bags Tumo Speaking of aging stars 4 injection allusions, from the start before liberation.
With years of mountain found a pretext for pee got the message, exit the room, leaving you alone for one to listen to "great wisdom", mountain outside the Japanese devils, and looting of food warlords, rob and kill caravan, blood revolutionary heroes, history in the suck Pakistan's tongue rolling, and accompanied by white smoke and staged scenes, with a country flavor.
When the old people of the Fourth said the Revolutionary Armed Forces, if not trouble himself in the capital can be mixed Chuming Tang, you can no longer put up with this endless repetition of speech, we face the uncertainty of the sky that you would also like to catch an early return.
These seniors very sorry to send you out.
Suddenly you think of a tree, so ask him.
3000-year-old ~
Such a tree, 3000 years ago?
If elsewhere, must long been surrounded by high walls and isolation protection up strike.
In your place of residence, a few hundred years of trees will die like kind of like being surrounded by iron fence, engraved marble plaque on the ground by a variety of wonderful stories Xuan dye tickets to meet the visitors.
You remember the village, really big tree, surrounded by six adults, is also He Bulong, the following long trees, direct dial into the sky to look at this piece of mountain.
If the success of the trial reported that heritage should be protected from the small village of some unnamed books will be loaded, and even cultural tourism recommendation, the associated Yuan that the several hundred years of ancestral halls became worth recalling the scenery together.
However, if, as the mountains band of the children would no longer play hide and seek under the big tree holes of the strike ~
Relics such thing could have been not to see too many people, and eventually one day be said to have become relics, so that heritage, and be washed before Shaorenwenjin embarrassment.
3000-year tree if there is perception, it will favor the laughing or silent?
This has been regardless of your business, when you turn over those mountains, the news will be wise to bring people in, and then with Zheke not yet been iron fence enclosed a picture of a tree, got on the car tomorrow morning, leaving .
Heard love to come back too
Wooden porch of the pub where there is a window of the round table, I pull a half-body V in the above, tired.
Under the sun excitement, in exchange for the night's fatigue.
Before the octagonal crystal cup of fresh blood flowing like whiskey bright, beautiful red roses, floating ice crystal Rosen.
My complexion began to reddening, which is a good sign Weizui I feel happy, thoughts began to Pentium, give rise to the indulgence.
In Phnom Penh opened the notebook blank mosaic graffiti something, I decided to let thoughts of unrestrained laissez-faire, write down what is what.
I am curious about this will be a Journey or the lyrical prose, or just a diary it ~
Love is always confusing, unpredictable and see the future unclear.
No one knows what kind of environment for the birth of love, do not know how to love torture destroyed.
I do not know what to do in the end is right, just as I am not sure what is wrong.
Loyal, pure, eternal, rational, feeling, soul, and I even do not need to believe anything, let the feelings of such a random flow.
Natural, frank.
However, Nietzsche said that frank destruction.
Well, I dream that in order to prevent break down the illusory Mody?
Stretch out your hands, I began thinking unnecessary, there is no answer to no end.
Might really need to sort out clues, maybe just pass the time.
Meditation always been interrupted by such events as, and then quickly forgotten once learned the answer to be shipped until the next silly new thinking.
Maybe I grabbed the cup of silence gesture seemed inconsistent with the pub and cheerful atmosphere, and finally brought to the fore.
Qiaosheng Sheng-li in the front is a lovely waitress looked older than 20 years of age.
Can I help you?
I write with a noisy sound that you can put the Scottish bagpipe Mody?
Little girl with a smile ran away, arm around the other bar looks mature and sexy whisper a few hospitality, and then came the strains of Celtic music.
For the love of a princess.
Scotland and brave, seems this is the understanding of service to the bagpipes, of course, that was quite good, "Brave Heart" is my favorite movie, especially when disembowelling her voice crying out, Freedom ~
我曾经猜想历史上的英雄是否真的都有如此戏剧壮丽的镜头——对了,这就是很好的搭讪话题。
我打算为可爱的服务生点一杯饮料,晚上7:00,还没开始上客,难得清闲。
小姑娘含蓄的拒绝了这个邀请,因为刚刚工作生疏么?因为我不够魅力么?因为早已生了防备之心么?
很好,咯咯的笑声中,由一个话题牵引另一个话题,这是情趣的开始。
她看起来还很年轻幼稚,这令我没有非分的幻想,无关紧要不伤痛痒的内容得以继续。
在这期间我又点了两瓶ice bud,一份沙拉,放下戒备的姑娘已经放开胃口的大吃,我甚至别有动机的招呼另一个成熟得体的服务生过来一起品尝,毕竟我是唯一的客人。
老板不在,可爱小姑娘给我的酒钱打了折扣,还一同分享自己的手艺,呵呵,这看起来真美好,可惜我的同伴还在206号房间睡大觉,他说白天太累了。
九点,阳朔的夜真正到来了,我听见背对的门廊不断被推开的声音,成熟的服务生迎了出去,传来悦耳的英语对答,不禁泛过一丝苦笑,我们恐怕是这里少的可怜的几个中国人吧,以至于连卫生间的水龙头都写着hot water......
接着可爱小姑娘停在我这桌的时间也越来越少,每当送过一盘点心到我身后,回来的时候路过我的身边总是一个点头示意。
成熟的服务生好像落在了一桌白人身边,用着流利到我听不明白的英语彼此调笑些什么——有一个高个子白人长的好像汤姆克鲁斯,我想他一定很有钱,能游荡到中国,再找到阳朔这样的地方,还有一个性感中国服务生陪着,会赏小费么?
又过了一些时候,换了新装的同伴来了,看着已经勾肩搭背的成熟服务生,说我看起来太嫩,只能吸引未成年小姑娘,那些有味道的女人就得奔更有味道的洋鬼子去咯。
说这话的时候,可爱小姑娘给我送来一份切开的柠檬,也冲着我同伴美丽的笑了一下。
我想,该不会这是职业笑容吧。
月亮停在最美的天上,漓江渔火闪耀柔和。
夜,降临了。
The EDGE
你热爱冒险,却总在幻想自己不会是倒霉的那一个。
听说山上有狼,于是你上山;
传说老屋有鬼,于是你夜入;
结果没有看见狼,倒是被半人高的狼狗吓了一跳;没有撞见鬼,倒是被腐朽的屋子搞得满面尘土,狼狈不堪。
97年,有一部片子叫“The EDGE”,沉默羔羊的吃人医生扮演一个陷入原始森林的亿万富翁,寒冷的阿拉斯加,有冰雪、有鱼、有落难同伴的尸体、有不忠妻子的情妇、还有时刻想要品尝血肉滋味的食人棕熊。故事结局,年过半百的亿万富翁最终凭着书本上得来的野外知识熬到了最后——还杀死了一头熊。
你感兴趣的是熊。
你以为动物园里圆滚滚的那驼会动的肉就是熊,总是被杂技演员逗着玩,就连你,也嘲讽的拍下一幅黑熊的阳具,充作bbs帖图灌水的搞笑题材。
好像这就是一种天生愚蠢的动物,你自信无论在山林还是平地,一头饥饿愚蠢的熊都不会对行动灵敏的你造成危害,你幼稚单纯的想象那条步伐蹒跚的熊一定追不上你。
哦,97年的你是多么荒诞愚蠢啊~
真正的丛林永远是一个恶梦,当你孤寂的落在野外,寒冷、饥饿、疲劳死死纠缠着你,闭上眼睛就是天黑,尘封多年的孩提时代恐惧,对黑暗的恐惧时隔多年以后不可抑制的涌向你,迫使你努力的睁着眼睛,仿佛一旦合上,刚刚熟悉的世界就不见了。即使面前摆着指南针,你也会神经错乱的分不清南北。
精神上的巨大负担,导致肉体能量的激烈损耗,前所未有的饥饿感逼迫着你,生存手册上记载的一切野外需知都被抛在脑后,你忘记了要保持体力,像只没头苍蝇,到处乱撞,跌倒了无数次,嘶力叫喊,呼唤所有你昨天才知道的山民姓名。
刚开始,整个山谷回响你的求救声,然后渐渐的声势转微,直到喉咙里只能发出沙哑的嘶嘶声,这个时候你感到刚刚沉寂的森林开始活跃了,到处都有响声,到处都有眼睛张望着你、嘲笑着你。
你想唱首歌壮胆,跳动喉结的代价是钻心的嘶裂疼痛,呼唤不出声音,你才想起遇到危险首先要珍惜水份的第一生存原则,这令你吓出一身冷汗,开始冷静。
你想吃点东西,摸摸口袋,抓出一盒口香糖,你恨自己为什么没想到塞一块压缩饼干,虽然每次在手册上读到这一段时都自信一定会记得。
意外往往就在最不可思议的时候发生。
你开始回想过程,几小时前依然走在模糊但方向确切的山路上,呼吸着清新的空气。明天你就要离开,去一个有热水器的城市舒舒服服洗澡,想到这里,你的嘴角泛出一丝微笑,交代的任务差不多都圆满完成,好客的乡人还送你一大包干货,这是城里买不到的山里特产,你的祖辈已经几十年尝不到那些记忆中的食品,每当回忆过去的时候总要提及——而现在,你带着丰盛的礼物,赶在春节前一天回到家中,炫耀般的展现给父辈们看,还有那些即将写下来的山居笔记,这都值得憧憬,于是心情愉悦,又觉得这条山路在向导的带领下早已走过数遍,该在哪边转岔都记得清清楚楚,不用费心回忆。
走着走着,山间的道路似是而非的相似,每一个树木,看起来不像,又好像;每一块石头,好像本来就在那里,也像动了位置;每一片云彩,都在你头顶……流动的方向却明显不一样了。你有点诧异,风向并没有明显的改变,难道自己走错路了?
就这么想着的时候,你依然没有停下脚步,“习惯”性的顺着路走,直到周围的景色越来越没有映象,直到脚下已经没有路。
你终于醒悟自己走错了,于是赶忙转身想要找到正确的方向——却意外的发现身后已没有路,甚至脚印也消失无踪,好像不曾来过。
你着急的走啊走,脚步越来越快,终于看见一块似曾相识的草地,欣慰的走过去,猛的发现地上留着的是自己刚才扔下的口香糖纸。
书上说,迷路就是这样发生的,在没有路的地方,人的双脚总是不规律的移动,看起来好像在绕圈——也确实在绕圈走。
太阳渐渐消失了,你强打着精神起身去找水源,原本抛在脑后的知识终于一个个冒了出来,刚才的呼喊消耗了太多水份,如果不及时补充,夜里就会支撑不住。
很多东西,在你不需要的时候,总在身边出现,不胜其烦,但当你真正需求的时候,就会消失的无影无踪,比如那条沿着山道的小溪。
你越是着急,脑子就越糊涂,犯下的错误越多,脾气就越暴躁,你忍不住就要大喊大叫,忘记了喉头已经发不出声音。
又是一阵钻心的痛,让你回归了理智,安静下来,溪流就出现在你脚下。
你知道只要顺着水源走,就会找到村落,就能结束这段不光彩的遇险。
可是天已黑了。
萎缩在树根,双臂抱着双脚,你庆幸身上没有伤,不要为抵御疼痛支付更多热量。
现在很冷,潮湿的地面滋生出寒气。
你不知道几点了,没有星星,天气看起来很不好,要下雨了,这才是你最害怕的。
寒冷与潮湿,足以击倒一个缺乏房屋保护的壮年汉子。
所幸最终没有落下雨滴,伴随而来的却是另一种恐惧。
对黑夜、对未知世界、对鬼魅最原始的恐惧。
曾经单身匹马,独闯乱坟岗,把酒言欢,对月当歌的勇气荡然无存。
现在的你平凡如张三李四,一样的颤抖害怕。
你还想起山民提到的那只老虎,老李头将那条神出鬼没的老虎如何甩掉村里猎人、又如何将落单的汉子拖进林子里的故事讲的生动活泼,如同亲见。
末了,你问他这是什么时候的事,老头眯起了眼睛,吐出一口烟,记不清了,也许很久以前、也许去年、也许就是上个月,他肯定的说这事山里人都知道,不信你去问。
你当然没问,你知道山里人总是喜欢这样的故事,吓唬山外来客,也满足听众的欲望。
可几日后的今天,你在害怕,你明知道不该畏惧那条也许不存在的老虎,但这抑制不住恐怖的气息蔓延,山鬼、生魂、僵尸、狐精、土匪、老巫婆,团团包围你,将你深陷进自己的恐惧。
“The EDGE”里的亿万富翁说过,山里迷路的人,多数因为无脸见人而死。
你觉得这句话应该翻译错了,可惜当年的你无力纠正,今天的你没机会再看到原文字幕。
你需要放下负担,安静的睡一觉,养足精神,到天明,一切都会好起来。
可你不知道如何熬过这个黑夜。
吃人的老虎,一旦品尝过人肉的鲜嫩滋味,就只想吃人肉。
夜里的声音越来越多,到处有树枝折断的响声,那是夜行动物出来觅食,你在揣测这是些什么动物,能否对你造成威胁。
幸好这是冬天,要不然你甚至不敢靠在树上,你害怕不知何时就被一条通体碧绿的小蛇盯上。
再这样下去,精神会迸裂。
你强迫着自己思考快乐的事情,可一旦闭上眼睛,爷爷说过的妖女又会串进你的脑海……
不知何时,睁开眼睛,已看见太阳,难得好天气。
整个身子拖拉在地上,眼前浸着露水的绿叶上爬过一只蜗牛,从视线的这一角出现,又从另一角移开。
你惊觉自己居然睡着了那么久,感到浑身酸痛,站不起身。
忽然就想到电影里的棕熊,你确信现在的自己,连只乌龟的速度都不如。
积聚了好久的力量,跳起来看看四肢还是完整的,没被猫科动物刁走什么部位。
呼一口气,一样的清新。
然后你听到山歌,打柴的老乡就在附近。
你整整衣装跑过去,看着那张憨厚的脸,忽的,说不出什么,笑一笑,道声早,问明路的方向,独自走去。
好像夜晚的你不是你,好像丢面子的事情从未发生过。
走在阳关路上,你在心底呼喊,真虚伪。
阳朔的RPG游戏
上海外滩的YouthHotel,租一辆普通自行车要200人民币押金,10块钱4小时——家乐福里面买一辆自行车,最便宜的不到150块,所以我觉得即使上海的国际青旅,都免不了粘上浓重的上海味,斤斤计算,不亏一分钱,此事一直被拿来印证上海主义经济特色,算是笑话。
刚来阳朔的时候看到满街新款跑车,感叹不已,至少在自行车档次方面,小镇遥遥领先国内水准呢。
西街青旅的租车价格是10块钱一天,捷安特前后减震车型,双人车15块钱一天,至于街道上,肯耐心杀价的话,5快钱就能搞定,当然车要次一点——我相信来阳朔没人会在乎这点价钱,只是听说到了旅游旺季,新跑车甚至能涨到50块钱……
最令人吃惊的是不用押金,看不清摸样的租车主人只是关照了晚上七点前回来,直到我们骑上车也没说抵押的事,这令习惯了中国市场经济的我们深感不安,于是问不用押金么?
那汉子也一脸疑惑,押金?要押金干什么?哦,留个手机号吧,迷路了或者回来找不到我了就打电话,说完就又去招揽别的客人了。
然后我们萎缩的想了好久为什么他们不担心车子一去不回……或者坏了不认帐……还是有什么阴谋……
... ...
感叹自己真是幸运,永远避着蚂蝗似的游客,享受非凡的折扣价,就说我引以为豪的206房间,老板告诉我到了5月,涨价到400宰你没商量。
同伴老马酷爱野外飙车…仅限飙自行车,怎么摔都不会死于是第二天早上品尝完青旅特色的英国式早餐,各自租了新车,裹着地图,沿着漓江,朝另一个方向探索。
公路是蜿蜒起伏的,清早,除了太阳,就是偶尔过路的客车,于是我们得以自在的违反交通规则,逆向行驶、勾肩搭背、横穿马路,甚至闭着眼睛骑车……能想到的荒唐动作都做了,就这样一路快乐的飙了九公里,还不觉得累。
前方又是一个小镇,路边铺满了沙田柚,对这种巨大化的“橘子”我们本能的充满了好奇,剖开以后干瘪瘪的,看起来没有水份,却是分外的甜,不知不觉手上就会粘乎,掏钱付帐的时候,发现没有零钱,只好摸口袋,这个举动却被卖水果的大妈误解了——她说:
“台币么?我找的开啊!”
都觉得口渴,偏远的小卖部里居然能买到“红牛”——老马说新加坡NUS考试指南上注明:建议学生在复习期间饮用“红牛”……
足以见得功能强大的东东,补充能量的效果比那些花俏流行饮料好得多。
一罐红牛喝完的时候,我们已经脱离了公路,走进了乡间小道——我们也不知道能走到哪里,只是在岔路口觉得这边的天空看起来比较顺眼。
前方在修路,高低不平、坑坑洼洼,同路的山民都满脸痛苦,唯有我们兴奋莫名,终于有机会体验减震效果了,果然无论怎样折腾,屁股一上一下的都挺舒服^_^
山在我身后,水在我身旁,路在我前方。
出村不到5分钟,我们再次迷路了,有点后悔没雇个向导。
村民告诫过我们这条地图上没有的路错综复杂,路线正确了3小时就能到阳朔……如果走错了,天黑了还在芦苇丛中转圈,过去常有些不信邪的旅客独自一人出去闯,转到天黑了还得回村子投宿。
其实听说会迷路,我感到很兴奋。
在阳光明媚的天气里,最美的漓江山水之间,迷路也是一种享受,说不定能带我们去到另一处想象之外的风景呢。
原来顺着山民采柚子的小道走,弯弯曲曲的转几个弯,路就没了,四周都是两人高的芦苇,脚下充生扒轮胎的荆棘,虽然是12月,可在亚热带,我们依然卷起了裤脚,于是很快腿上遍布枝条划伤的血痕,有点讨厌。
望着太阳,对着指南针,辨别了方向,横在前面的是一湾鱼塘,没有路,只是我们知道,顺着方向就能到阳朔。
嗯,那就让我们先想办法过河。
扛着车,沿着灌溉水稻的渠沟,走过5米高、不到20公分宽的梯形水坝,再杂技似的趟过横在水边的浑圆管道,终于到了彼岸。
回头看看,已经绕了好大一圈。
对着指南针,重新确定方向,这次挡在面前的是整条漓江支流。
就在我们一筹莫展的时候,远处听到歌声与嚎叫,另一队穿越芦苇滩的游客出现在新的彼岸,对着我们呼唤——怎么?难道可以直接过去?
前方出现山民,于是我设定这就是个NPC,老马走上前运用“询问”技能了解到埋伏在树丛中的浅滩,刚好够我们趟过去。
对了,可能你要问我什么是NPC,就是RPG模拟游戏中自动出现,提供给主角情报咨询的人物,随着游戏主角“询问”技能掌握程度的不同,同样的问题能有不同的答案——着不,递上一根烟,我得到了比之前更详细的路线指南,呵呵。
顺利出了芦苇滩,开始真正的山路,高低落差夸张,一个下坡路能滑几分钟,所幸没有别的行人,不然刹车还真打不住。
四周的山景似曾相识,猛然领悟这就是曾经远处的山到了眼前,原来咱们已经到了这个地方——其实这个地方到底是哪个地方,我们还是不知道……
有山,就有山村,与之前渔村不同,这里标榜的是还在活蹦乱跳的山鸡。
一个地图上没有注明的小村落,除了一个孤零零的天线,再没有其他现代化的标志,看来我们的迷路很彻底~
接着,行程变得更加有趣,由于不断经过各个小山村,遭遇越来越多的岔路,遇到越来越多的NPC,我们几乎每走10米就要重新确定一下路线,直到幸运的遇见一个同去阳朔的山民,骑着车,说你们跟着我走就是了。
起初我担心咱们的高级跑车会把他的28式远远丢在后面,结果发现可能遭遇抛弃危险的是我们……
感慨,骑山地车的人比不上山地人的车。
这样的地方,你才能感到路原本是无所谓有无所谓无的,确定一个方向,一个目标,可以有各种各样的选择。
用专业的话说,阳朔之旅是一个自由度很高的开放式RPG~
没有导游图告诉你一定要怎么走、一定要看怎样的风水、一定要如何安排行程。
走累了,停下来吃点干粮,或者找个农家,给点成本费,做一锅野食。
玩累了,可以就地借宿,通常是不收钱的,只要给个餐饮费,早上起来可以去漓江划船钓鱼,鱼上来了,吩咐当地人做一锅地道泉水鱼,那种新鲜的滋味,全无腥燥,大大的铁盘累着满满的香脆鱼肉,炒几只野鸡蛋,要一碗自酿药膳酒……
酒饱饭足,再亲手拔几株龙弯草,做一锅蔬汤,不用任何调料,开水里煮几分钟,清新爽口。
整天都在山水,望着放牛娃,田地原野里放风筝,闻着清爽的乡土气,招呼一个又一个新到来的远方游客,拍拍他们肩膀,道一声欢迎,俨然自己已成了山水的主人。
城市里一切烦人的事儿都丢在脑后,天黑了也没有CCTV,只管看星星。
过足了田园生活,回到现代化的西街,pub上贴了新公告,今晚李.察斯攀岩俱乐部举办party,有免费的饮料,欢迎大家参加——当然是用英语写的,反正这条路上有闲心思看pub的中国人,也许就我们两个……
于是我们回到住处洗澡换衣,准备新的狂欢。
这样的日子,你能舍得轻易告别么?
高原上智慧的牛天是蓝的、山是白的、冲出云层直接暴露在苍穹的太阳,是金黄色,照耀在大地上,泛起一丝奇异的金色——如果不是海拔4000米、不是落差北京4小时的时差,你会以为现在是下午两点,可实际上,已经过了晚上八点,独特的高原天象轻易的打破平原人信守一辈子的生活常识。
五月的雪山之侧,你顶不住灼热阳光而不得不将自己捂实,结果闷热难受;可一旦转进山的另一面,当山影遮住了阳光,你又冷的发抖,失去照耀的雪地惨白惨白的铺在你身周,每走一步都要打一个哆嗦,你又开始诅咒,这样的天气令人不知道穿什么适合,难道,一定要像藏民那般在夏天还披着羊毛坎肩么?在阳光下卸除可活动的衣袖,到阴暗面再恢复成一件保暖大衣,太阳令人憎恨又不能舍弃。
你的皮肤最终呈现出一片暧昧的枣红,好像被灼伤,又好像被冻坏,如同那些高原人。
这儿不是风景区,不是交通要道,只是未被记载书册的一段高原公路——说是公路可能勉强,刨开积雪,覆盖的只有泥土,车子碾过阳光下熔化的地面,激起一片尘土飞扬;车子趟过山背面的雪地,雪花四溅。
来往的车辆无非当地藏民运送物资的东风大卡,偶尔,眼前也会奔驰过漂亮豪华的越野吉普,带着gps天线、夸张的车顶灯、前后铁牛、大功率空调、舒适的沙发座椅,那些有钱人或者更有钱的旅行家带着酷爱的装备,行驶在他们宏大旅行的路程中。
哦,可曾有人注意孤零零的你?
一个落单的游客?寻浪漫的轻狂少年?
还是迷路的可怜人~
你看着自己,感觉全身闪耀着刺眼的光,令人眩晕,令人迷糊,你知道这是个不好的兆头。
盘山的路总要从山的阳光面,转到山的背影面,寒冷与酷热的折磨每隔三十分钟就要交替一阵,你羡慕那些能将全身裹起来的藏民,拥有天生的枣红皮肤,天生的抵抗着放肆的紫外线。
没有云彩遮挡的高原,太阳是天使,更是恶魔。
四面围着叫不出名字的大小雪山,缺少植被,一切都是光秃秃的,仿佛从前面的山崖滑下去,顺着方向,就能到达另一座雪山,没有阻拦——除了可能站在山崖上的野牦牛。
牦牛,是九寨沟里傻待着不动给游人拍照亲近的温和动物。
野牦牛,就是眼前喷着鼻息横在你面前的硕大怪物,黑乎乎的毛皮,散发浓重的腥骚,瞪着牛眼,藐着你。
这次不是一只,足有一群,身边也没有指挥的藏民,你说你不怕,大踏步走开去,却又担心头上的红帽子、甚至红墨镜可能引起危险,于是你又赶忙停下来整理这一切,把帽子、墨镜一古脑塞进背包,结果第一时间的被阳光灼疼。几米开外的牦牛似乎并没有动静,只是悠闲的晒太阳,其中一只傻傻的看着你傻傻的举动,露出不解的神情——你确信这不是高原反应的错觉,那头牛,确实有一双智慧的眼睛,或许是牛中的智者。
这里前不着村后不着店,天黑以前回去的路只有这一条,你知道白天的阳光能杀人,而夜晚冰冷的月色更可以冻僵一切。
何况遇上了最不知死活的野牦牛,来的路上,就是40人大客车遇见了它们也得小心翼翼,这种迟钝的动物从来不担心公路上有足以伤害自己的东西。
没法子,硬着头皮,挨过去罢,假装不在意它们,从身边,缓缓的走过,牦牛依然懒洋洋的晒太阳,一点回避的意思也没有,只是在你靠近的时候,侧了侧身子,扬起肥硕的尾巴,转过头看着你,这叫你胆战心惊又受宠若惊。
你还记得昨晚吃了喷香的牦牛铁板烧、新嫩牛柳、牛肉汤、真空包装牦牛肉干,你说了要带上火车吃。
现在你一个人站在牛群中间,高大强壮的牦牛围着你,好奇的看着你,不时耸耸粗壮的牛角,能轻松的挑开脆弱的皮肤,上面还粘着泛黑的血迹——那是何时留下的?你不敢多想。
你觉得聪明的牛能明辨是非,该死的,为什么不去找做牛肉汤的厨师刽子手……
在这一瞬间你相信牦牛才是高原真正的主人,天生不害怕阳光,也不畏惧酷寒,强壮到没有天敌,即使传说中小牛一般壮硕的雪狼(学名不详)也不敢轻易靠近一头愤怒的野牦牛。
可你不小心瞟了一眼牛腿,不知怎么的联想到牛柳,就藏在这毛茸茸的皮肤下……
突然而生的想法叫你更加害怕,希望聪明的牛不要察觉你的心思。
经过那头聪明的牛,一股更强烈的气味差点熏倒你——天哪,它在马路上拉屎了……
你突然想起背包中刚买的牦牛骨梳,晶莹混黄的透明骨质中夹杂着条条血丝,蜿蜒纠缠,触目惊心,靠在鼻尖,有一股特殊的味道——你还记得卖梳子的老藏民炫耀说这把梳子里鲜血多,一定是趁牦牛活着时候硬砍下来的好货……你还记得行家说买牛骨梳一定要内含血丝的……你还为拣了便宜的梳子着实高兴了一阵……现在你祈祷牦牛的鼻子不要那么灵敏……
想到这里,回头看看盯着你的牛,不由得背脊一寒。
早上刚被梳理的头皮,跟着微微发麻。
曾经这样一头有智慧的牛,横在面前的牛,被宰了,还在流血的当儿砍下骨头,打磨成一把精巧质感的梳子,供你回去讨好年轻的女孩。
好像挨了半个世纪,才疲惫的穿过短短十米的牛群,小心翼翼的加快了脚步,不敢再回眸,生怕牦牛们觉悟你的残忍。
天黑了,终于回到小镇,热情的店家招呼你,客倌,来点什么?
咱们这有上好野牦牛肉,绝对新鲜热辣……
Dance
三年前一个人流浪在城市,不经意的路过一座貌似平凡的建筑,并不宽敞的门廊站着一个黑人侍应生,殿堂里透出柔和的光,吸引行者驻足,我忍不住好奇凑过去,感受着外滩的气息,突然醒悟了这是哪里,一个书上的地方,萧伯纳、卓别林、鲁迅、宋庆龄待过的地方,鉴证历史的地方,名流大贾的地方,远东第一名楼,物欲与艺术的历史交汇。
很奇怪的并没有一种被拒之门外的感觉,心情平静,我只是告诉自己未来的某一天将会出现在这儿,品尝一顿世界名厨亲自料理的早餐,坐在书上记载的房间里,抚摸那张记录《私人生活》的书桌,打开历史的窗户,去感受。
这算一个年轻时的理想吧,老马总是指责我追逐这些转瞬即逝的虚荣,呵呵。
广场上立着12根高大的圆柱雕塑,镶嵌在上的是金色的12生肖,围成一圈,中间立着看不清字样的碑塔,一样的金灿灿。
就是这里了,号称中国景区首家五星级酒店,富丽堂皇的令人眩晕。
据成都400公里,过了海拔2000,其间没一条像样的公路,艰难的路况考验游客,也阻碍了阿坝洲的百姓生活,可是对建立一座豪华的五星酒店似乎并没有影响,物欲轻易的横流在远离城市的深山,却换不来平民的富足生活。
搞不明白是什么的建筑风格,似是而非的棱角显然不是哥特,圆润的屋顶也不够透彻,不似香格里拉的完全现代主义,更没有和平饭店的传统气息,乳白的砖瓦结构又好像布达拉宫,我觉得建筑者企图营造一种民族风格,看起来却是多种艺术的无主题堆叠——当然,建筑的问题我不懂,只是瞧着觉得不太舒服。
蒙古包一样的艺术剧院门侧站着两排民族服装的漂亮女孩,笑盈盈的瞧着你走近,献上一束洁白的哈达,你的头脑还很清醒,知道这并非象征友谊,只是钞票买来的欢心。
既来之,则安之,仿人民大会堂的沙发很舒服,但左侧死板着脸的日本人身上浓重的古龙水气味实在令人受不了,借着演出段落的当儿逃进了洗手间,干冰与芳香剂也成了好味道的东西。照着镶金边的水池镜子,你觉得自己看起来实在太年轻了一点,帆布鞋与这金光灿烂的一切都那么不协调,剧院宽敞明亮,仿佛在嘲笑你的渺小——镜子映出身后的中东人做着手势向你指点,哦,该让位了,这样的中年人才是酒店真正欢迎的住客吧,他们有黑色黄金。
下一个节目是群舞,偌大的会场只坐了三百人,主办单位居然就将大家都拉上了舞台,围着漂亮的舞女——年轻的少数民族女孩可能是你在这儿能找到的唯一同龄人,皮肤细腻的好像水乡汉人,明眸皓齿,白净柔滑的惹人眼红,于是当音乐响起,身边很自然的围上一圈苍蝇,少女的小手被争相握住,你能看见那些姑娘强作欢笑又尴尬于抽身的表情,默默叹一口气,来到这里,就是命运,恐怕拉大家上台的主持人也乐意以此吸引有钱人吧。
民乐很动听,舞蹈很美,男人们手舞足蹈,却都不自觉的往那些舞女们身上挨,有些姑娘乖巧的躲闪,更有一些大概接受了现实,任由各种肥硕、结巴的大手不怀好意的掌握,台下男人们的女人们跟着干瞪眼。
你闪在一边,有点无奈被拖上台,随着节拍生疏的起舞,看着胸前的哈达飘荡——钞票换来的哈达。
突然,无序晃动的手被另一只温暖的小手拉住,摆出更大的幅度,迎合这音乐,像模像样的挥舞起来...这是怎么了?
环顾四周,你看到写满敌意的眼睛,男人丛中逃出一个女孩,借着曲风改变的瞬间,灵敏的串到你身边,不知不觉,像一只兔子,激得你心跳突突的急剧起来。
你有点意外,更多的是惊喜,难道自己看起来安全可靠的足以做一杆保护伞么?
还是因为同样的年轻?
你记不清她的样子,只知道很美,没有说什么,因为不重要。
你感受一双温柔的小手,扑鼻的香气,舞台上高贵的公主如此近的靠着你。
企盼时间的延续,也在咒骂为什么只是民族舞。
于是你从一个假想中的保护者,蜕变成登徒子。
扇动的舞衣露出雪白的肌肤,从脖颈往下,灯光照耀不到的诱人阴影,还有甜甜的笑。
亢奋的民乐下却有了不洁的思想。
牵着的手与手之间裹的更加严密,不自觉的贴近了彼此,没有想象中的排斥,利用每一次舞步的节奏作出夸张的动作,感觉对方温暖的身体......
可惜曲终,终要人散。
走下台时你像那些原本被你鄙视的中年人一样恋恋不舍,主持人说晚会即将结束,祝大家好好休息,他们的眼中更透出不知所以然的光彩。
你知道,你苦笑,物欲的世界有怎样的规则,女孩也好、舞蹈也好、哈达也好,在这里,终究是商品,有钱,就能买到——通常会换上更美好的词汇,比如浪漫。
走出剧院,你有点后悔为什么没说几句话,或者留个纸条,写在手上。
也许她现在也在等你的到来,坐在酒店的吧台,你相信你们会有一些共同的语言,共同孕育一些有趣的情节。
Yes!她现在一定在酒吧等着!
她们的身边也一定各自坐着一个男人,但一定不会是你,也许是腆着大肚子的中东人、金丝眼镜的大陆商人,甚至气味难闻的日本人,可以是这酒店的任何一人,唯独不会是你。
你是行者,不是寻欢的游客;你想要浪漫,不是金钱的买进卖出——虽然浪漫可能就是一笔期货生意。
你不要相信这是真的,你想转身重新走进酒店大堂,可是掉头看见一脸怪笑的日本人,反胃,下了狠心,头也不回的走进黑暗,走到光芒四射的酒店彩灯探照之外的地方。
美丽姑娘的故事每次都会发生,浪漫无所不在,只要你愿意买单~
夜深了,我躺在舒适的床上,回忆起白天猎人偷猎的老虎皮毛,用宗教仪式的借口,借特殊的政策,捕杀珍稀动物的人们。
还有未来的一些路,因为无钱看病而死的孩子,腐烂的童尸,某市民政局不受理的遗体火化,暴尸街道,只因他们不是人,没有登记,没有交税,所以不被认可,不被承认,死了也不能享受公民的安葬权。
哦,这些才是我旅程的主题吧,美丽山水之间横陈的现实,刻意回避的真实。
在美丽的阳朔,没有发生特别的浪漫故事,虽然我确定如果愿意,就能开始。
只是生活的影子更深的笼罩着我,令我知道,旅程刚刚结束一个段落,即将开始下一个,前面的路,还很漫长,更多的痛苦等待我的光顾。
快乐与幸福催人堕落,忘记根本。
几个月后,2003年的5月,我会再度踏上征程,走过丝绸之路,从西安到乌鲁木齐,直到天山——答应了一个女孩,为她的生日采一朵雪莲,不是雪山脚下山民贩卖的那种,我要亲自去采摘。
再一次的旅行意义莫过于此。
大概,这就是我注定的生活呗。
OVER
作者:redwolf