Dusty, horseshoe scattered. Trek, trek, from the sunrise of the Department, went to the sunset of the township.
Road is time woven belt, gray, slim and fragile in the Northwest Yunnan Plateau luxuriant mountains rise and fall between the meandering Ganma were hastily marched his heart in the edge of the world, people deep in history.
Napianhaomiao piece of good news for the mountain, right Napian tsunami-like waves of mountains, a narrow, just enough for a mule Chek yourselves in line yidao, the agenda for what?, However, is a tenacious post road, it sometimes Cuanshang the clouds, sometimes crashed into the canyons, broad, flat and yidao never miss.
The real road, never mind just Ganma people, in their trance of memories, in a fit of hesitation, the caravan started again their forward, kicked the spark horseshoe, horse ring shaking off the setting sun. Off the night, caravans on the road to rest, the bonfire red, ripped through the long dark night, will also be warm Ganma of people homesick dreams. Eer, there will be soon as long masi, as the whole world's cross-examination, a long reverberating in the mountains.
Today, of course, that kind of scene will appear in historical records, the appear in the imagination of later generations. I have to find out, not to pay tribute, I do not believe that, generation after generation, live life, could ever be so lost without a trace.
Along the legendary trail, I have a step by step toward the distance, looking forward to its tracks. I was surprised to find that the trail is still alive, even if it has become history, it was only a history of dehydration. When faced with moist eyes, there is bloody mind, it is blamed for back to life again, along with all those branches, tangled vine, and plush velvet details. At Tiger Leaping Gorge, 12 bars, small Zhongdian, soup heap Village, A Dunzi and Benzilan, such as water in the stars of the night sky, the old people's description of where it is still so vivid and realistic. I go there seems to be reaching can touch horseshoe worn Hill, Gan Ma's song, midnight bonfire, and the smell of horse manure, dust, and years of taste.
In 1953, at the time of the Zhongdian County, Ni Xixiang busu village gods silent. The early morning quiet of the mountains, Zhou Qi of several more dogs barking like balderdash. 27-year-old Gan Ma who Dhondup looked away and starting from the front of his house, set foot on Gan Ma's long journey.
Small busu Village, from the Tea-Horse Road main road 78 kilometers away, one from the village through the Ni busu West hurling benzilan paths, as the Tea-Horse Road, a small offshoot from the edge of the village Wan busu anchovy by. One after another Ganma person who go out from here, in some cases return to their homes after a year or so, but some dark and quiet Otonobu no, never returned. However, regardless of the presence of exotic said, a little savings, or on the road restrain difficult to die abroad, Ganma the human soul, will at some point return to their homes from afar.
Toinzhub is not busu village, he was originally Zhongdian County, five of the slaves throughout the Township, a landlord, a certain one day he fled to busu village, made a poor people's door-law. However, landlords in the inquiries into his whereabouts after he was unconscious all the circumstances of his hands to sell another one landlord, the owner has changed, but his slave status does not change, in the long ago, the owner let him Gan Ma a trip to India, he could not not go, Left, and that he could only bid farewell to their loved ones, hit the road.
Forty-six years later, talking about that period of past events, he still think that everything is at hand. Thus began, the entire 10 years of his career Ganma people, like an old painting, grinding through the days of washing, wind and rain erosion, natural colors had faded, fuzzy brush strokes. But those who ride from Horseshoe dust, those winding paths, then again and again the back of his wife, Yuan Wang Yi Men, for him, is still the clear, clear as yesterday.
Looking at his eyes in the dim light of the eyes gradually been recalled, I suddenly understand that I can not enter his world ------ that is full of vitality, full of tough Wrangler world. I can only brink of this world, perhaps, he, like me, that can no longer return to his world.
The Han Dynasty from distant starting to draw the line a distant, vast space-time Trail through the years, has been extended into the Ming and Qing dynasty until the Republic of China, and its tail, in some remote areas, and even extended into the sixties of this century. Generation after generation, a team of another team caravan, with the flesh measured the earth, step by step, from Xishuangbanna, Dali came and went Lijiang, Zhongdian and from Lijiang came and went Deqin. Road, are still at the forward extension, through the snow-capped mountains, into the snow-covered Tibet, and from Tibet into Nepal, into India, and even the entire West Asia.
Tea-Horse Road brilliant, long submerged in the history of aeolian yellow sand, may be the way to go to, perhaps when, there will be some kind of ancient and strange feeling of mortal presence, you inadvertently cents when tapping your soul door.
Perhaps this is the diffuse line lies the charm, right?
214 State Road, Xixiang, after Ni after they entered a steep winding road, and then into the territory of Sichuan Derong is about 23 kilometers, through the Jinsha River on the Fu-long bridge, then back to the cloud Nande Qin territory. State Highway Department to enter the K1975 Benzilan, Tashi with the car suddenly asked me, Have you been Gyejoksan do? Problems come unexpected, the moment I can not understand his meaning and thought for a moment, I said, never been to. See the puzzled expression on my face, Tashi explained that, in accordance with existing legislation, the Tibetan Buddhism followers to the Meili Snow Mountain to worship before the first pilgrimage to the Dali territory Gyejoksan made "key" and then to the Meili Snow Mountain, Meili Snow Mountain in order to see the true capacity. I said that I was sincere, only I did not first go Gyejoksan tube. Tashi look of Su Rong, ask me, that God what faith can you?
I am speechless, I understand, in the dust filled the pilgrimage on the road, those who knock the head and other body length is faithful to the gods in order to confirm that prove their piety, confirming their faith, also confirmed that they love.
It turned out that love and faith are the need to take actions to confirm that, like Dhondup was described to me in the ups and downs of those pilgrims on the road, his eyes blinking light dream.
There is no doubt, and the trail is closely linked Inn. In Chinese culture, history, Inn is not only affecting the mind sees a poet, but also frightened the name of Lebanon's population. Probably, coaching inns such as the star not only with the horse, the Tisheng closely connected to rain, but also with the fortunes of the strong or weak, is closely related to Xingfei dynasty. I think the desolate when the Inn was Tisheng and Bianying broken by shock, a dynasty, some also come to the end of collapse, such as "Red Dust Feizixiao a ride" kind of joke, is not to open a few back.
However, the Tea-Horse Road on the borderland Inn, the Inn is very different from the Mainland and the Central Plains, it is more desolate, more loneliness, but also a bit more dangerous. Although, according to frontier traffic hub, Quenan involving the major political dynasty, more often, its use is in the business, in order to Guanfu passing instruments and command fell to the second.
In the Lancang River where a deep canyon, in a place called Huafeng Ping, I encountered such a Inn.
Chan village, the old man told me, from the vici Diqing to A Dunzai, Tea-Horse Road is another important branch, when the plateau into the winter season, from Dali to Zhongdian, Deqin through the rugged Hill was buried in snow, ice snow white block letters Mang Snow Mountain to become an insurmountable barrier, the trail of this branch of business travel has become another one caravan only way.
Huafeng square feet, was originally called for Fu Ping, from the famous village of Tribulus terrestris in just six kilometers, that husband's word, in fact, the meaning of porters.
As the old people talked about the dusk outside the window is getting stronger, are the two sides across the Lancang River towering mountains, gradually approaching for Fu Ping, for our nostalgic conversation remarks of adding to a dash of boundless.
The old man told me that old Guan Fu's Inn, generally can be divided into customs, Tong, flood, post four grades, in addition, there are not enough on the level of a small station for Fu Ping is such a small station. From business travel caravan arrived here Weixi County, Buddy, after already became exhausted, Betrader here to Tamar material, for porters. At that time, for the town of Fu Ping owned Deqin Shengping pipe, he did not land, thanks to the above to the Xiang Yin, obtain other big villages, people are buying food rations. He put special ring Xiang Yin, Ping-fu said that until the liberation for people still have to take Xiang Yin.
At that time, my thoughts drift very far: This Inn is too remote, and remote to almost insignificant, that is, there is resigned to his post of Husband passing, not how anxious mood. Perhaps it is because of this, with the Saint of Fort Washington, a sense of balance, a pot of butter tea, officials and Yizu nothing but talk a borderland anecdote, say a homemade. When the sun rises the next day, officials set off again, facing the prospects are, but also put this small Inn forgot a spotless.
However, for long distance business travel, the caravan is rushing through the years, changing this Inn Fu Ping, indispensable, it is business travel the road signs, Ganma person's home. Accommodation and contacts many times, they had become acquaintances, old customers and friends, to make a living, we all live in difficult, there will be a mutually accessible and understanding.
Even before the arrival of the caravan Inn right on schedule, there will be a worried about: It is by the robbers, or by the cold? Is the wind and rain barrier, or cut off the road? Gan Ma into the Inn on the Chang-San Lee did not see my boy, but also there will always be some question if a temporary leave, we will ask soon as the Trustee on behalf of the good, saying that next time let's look at him; If there is a prolonged illness passed away, there will be some sighs sadly, saying that the world has fewer friends, human one less good man.
Rivers and lakes on the people, loyalty and credibility is the first one, but the friendship is indispensable.
Thousands of miles to go to Ganma people familiar with the Inn each space between them, should have some sort of mutual Baituo and transactions. The hearts of mankind, while they chat while drinking the best food and wine, even if in the future no longer eat Nawan incomprehensible Gan Ma Nan Yan's 100 meals, casual encounters, do not own a friendship on.
Such a scenario, how the object of envy.
When I said farewell-for-fu ping back on the road, the border sunset, heavy cloud sihe. Looked back, for an evening mist shrouded in Ping-fu into. Lancang acoustic surging, flow is taking the river, stream without taking the cliff, just after the disappearance of this little man Ganma Inn.
So, in our journey of life such as water, but also left a small Inn does what?
Author: RYQ50
