First, run away
Out of the plane, a cool breeze suddenly hit.
Can not think of Kunming, ground temperature only 21 degrees.
Rather than to the two hours ago, I fled the city, 35-degree heat for at least a part of the brain cells melting away.
Cool let me Shuran conscious, aware of their left in a hurry, and even failed to prepare a long-sleeved clothing.
But the nature of the trip, I am four months ago has already begun. If it is not SARS obstacles in May will be the to be here.
Heart faster than the foot had to see the knee-jerk reaction of the.
South kiln Terminal, all bound Wenshan long-distance cars full.
That dead end, I suddenly heard a Canadian car.
Waited more than an hour, and finally more expensive than the price of long-distance sleeper sit retro small CMB. Huddle in cramped seats on the front behind a group of migrant workers who look like, it appears dirty. I smoke and odor straight nose drill, but can not open the window, if only the windows opened a crack, a drastic Ye Feng they are just like a knife mercilessly across to ... ...
In fact, do not open the window inside the car is cold enough, air-conditioning was very full, others wore a jacket, only my reckless outsiders Huddled inside the shirt.
Had time to go to the toilet before driving the vehicle out of the pedestal near even the aisles were full, I never go out of opportunities. Sitting next to me that increases in seat backs, is a face with dark complexion, hair knot of middle-aged man, middle of the night flew around in a car people have to sleep, this man has consciously or unconsciously put his head to me again and again here rely on.
I had to constantly dodge is really no place to put the flash of the cross-border Zheke pushed to find the head of the pillow. Eyes were heavy, some pain, I know I need sleep, but this requires some luxuries such an environment.
Night, a foreign land, a woman alone with a group of "indigenous" crowded into a minibus. Think about this scenario that were interesting themselves, many people will take it for granted that the horrors of terrorism became the assumed reasons for refusal trips.
I have a solid way came.
2, Wenshan
Happening gain on quickly, arriving at 5 am Wenshan is surrounded by a silence, the only lighting is the waiting room. I had to just sit here for several hours.
The sun comes out, I have see the broad contours of this place, but also determines the next trip.
To put their luggage opposite the station a small hotels, paused for grooming, I boarded a bus to the park in the western China.
The park built on mountains, rugged rocks, mixed pavilion, green forests, brilliant wild flowers, a mountain park that some of the basic elements of both, but are relatively simple and very popular non-wang. The reason why fairly minor celebrity, I would like to be attributed to its history, had been built in the early Qing park, even nothing, and can also be left in the first and antiques.
I came here, they are just visitors to the Wenshan routine Bale.
Wenshan, 37 of the township. A time when the 37 blossoms bloom. I have hostels rest an hour, a female singer on the television kept singing: "37 flowers waiting for you to, hey hey Luo, and so you wait for you to Come."
In addition, Wenshan is very common in a small town. Feels like home that town. Both familiar and strange atmosphere, a little bewildered, a little bit at a loss. Take a look at the faces and footsteps coming and going, seems to have extent, revealed a kind of lazy, idle, and even sluggish. Occasionally I could see the sunshine, Sentimental juvenile, has not the same vigor and handsome. Some of them, after some years will maintain this spirit and handsome bar - leaving their home place, Swordsman.
Standing on the streets of a foreign country, I think of a thousand miles away the home already and I have two two-phase Forget?
Decided to travel this journey to become a pure scenery of the trip. I decided not to stay, did not go Malipo, though well-considered way in advance I also organized a border permit.
Bought 37 boxes of tea, hop on qiubei car, I left the Wenshan.
3, Pu were black
Qiubei Pu were black, and got up and strange name, a major destination for this trip, boasts scenery in Guilin, south of the rhyme.
Come here, the lake is not the province of the money, otherwise those who can not appreciate the black & Poor's charm. 20 km stretch of water, the less the last time a boat tour that will take three or four hours. Tour Lake scenic spot must go to the door Box Office to purchase 75 of the block. And coastal water around the boat does not drift passenger travel, although the same is a local boatman. These boats are selling barbecue food to tourists. Boat loaded with BBQ tools and food raw materials, or parked at the shore to wait for action, or personal services chase boat. In addition to eggplant, sausage, leeks and other conventional Yakitori, there were the black lake and finish of the S & P small fish shrimp, clam meat Luorou, general were long out of the Black Lands where the small purple potatoes - the locals call it purple potato, and then those who cast a black homegrown sauce & Poor's, taste really good.
All vessels, including cruise ships, are canoe-style, which is endemic means of transport, almost every household has, no wonder black people who also put Putin likened the Yangtze River Delta.
I was almost noon, only buy a ticket on the boat, the entire crew on board in addition I was the only one tourist. Some of the young boatman shy, not much, but the Insider, but also to explain it in detail. Before he came to know here to immediately enter the Erhualian section, and asking the young man was aware of the origins of Erhualian section. There are evil spirits in ancient times is said to harass the village, the villagers cast Erhualian deter evil spirits, from generation to generation Erhualian Festival has become the traditional festivals.
Wenshan Zhuang and Miao Autonomous Prefecture Qiubei is a county, I would assume that the boatman was Hmong. Sure enough, I guess, but the young man told me, and I saw the way clothing is worn Sani ethnic minority people - a branch of the Yi people, but also those black & Poor's main ethnic groups. The Erhualian Festival, naturally Yi holiday.
Young man is very friendly and could serve as my guide and photographer, but then we met another boat, the boat tourists to see me a man, then a friendly invitation. Shengqingnanque, I will do a straightforward "jump boat", please go back and rest of the crew.
If the sun heat pressing, and boating on the lake is a very pleasant thing. Long and narrow canoe, fish in general picture of the shuttle in the landscape in itself brought a somewhat poetic. Poor visibility in those black lake is said to reach 3 meters, the actual number of I do not know, anyway, dense water plants are soaring is to see that very clearly. In the shallow areas, there are always many exciting swim tourists jump off play. Sitting in the boat, but also took Xiaopen splashing fun with each other. Pu by the black of the surrounding white-collar workers a good place to relax over the weekend, as I have here from afar to see her very little.
Here is the karst landform scenic spots, take analogy is the image of Guilin. One after another of the Qifengyidan, Wuli light waves, undulating surface of the water, like gods. An inter-tile cottage, which nestles at the Dutch swing bamboo forests, as well as the shore from time to time on the road traversed by Yijia maidens, to remind people that this is another haven.
Made me feel pleasant, is in large tracts of Dutch fields, interspersed by the black covering the S & P quiet clear lake. Here are the wild lotus is basically divided into two colors red and white, are re-valve, huge beautiful. Is the lotus blossom season, green lotus leaves and elegant lotus flowers sway gently in the breeze under the attention of many tourists taking pictures in boats. When the boat swing into the depths of the Netherlands, more people can not help but want to kiss fragrance of lotus flowers. This time, S & P are a microcosm of the black turn became Jiangnan.
Almost all karst areas, caves tiankeng is always unavoidable. I have a particular favorite cave, but the S & P are the black holes are not really outstanding. We looked at the moon hole, torch-dong, guanyin cave, Fairy Cave, etc., are basically similar, but there may be some holes within the boating lake, feeling a little fun.
Evening, our ship finally docked slowly. I boarded the P were the bare black hotel before a small hill, looking down from above to see a picturesque landscape: Shi Feng Tsui Lam narrow lane, the broad S & P who was a large black lake and flourishing of the load curve are asking is divided into fields patterns, meandering to stretch far away. Smart canoe, just like a strip of lively stature of fish, the tourists on board the same color of bright-yellow life jacket, then formed a small fish found the brightly colored markings.
You are standing on the bridge look at the scenery. Look at the scenery of people see you under the bridge.
Pressed digital camera shutter, and captured two on this trip the best photos.
Fourth, farmers, and Erhualian music festival
Erhualian Festival coincides with the opening ceremony the next day. The Erhualian Festival, the local government the occasion, not only to organize large-scale song and dance performances, body painting performances, the festival in Erhualian week has also organized a variety of mountaineering race, dragon boat race, what race Moyu said to the participants are local villagers.
Originally thought would be good to see the results miscalculate. Opening day, huge crowds of people are lively enough, but the organizers announced that the package usually set aside, to watch any show had to purchase separately. Even the open-air dance performances, four weeks have been sealed up, including an excellent perspective of the hill next to Nazuo also sent guard not to let anyone climb the mountains, for free viewing. I wanted to make another one up the landscape according to S & P were black - and today's tourist surge, river crowded with narrow canoe, wearing a yellow life jackets uniform tourists laughter playing in the water, such as dragon boat race ahead of the beginning of spontaneous , compared with yesterday have a special kind of energy - but seal off the results, I also shoot photos not do it.
Tourists flooded land increased, can not stand to see the mountain scenery, can not stand on the bridge look at the scenery, because the boat under the bridge across the will to keep a clean water splashed on the bridge with a laugh to.
Sell barbecue boats are also particularly up more, there are arranged at the various roadside snack stalls, grocery stalls, the original Erhualian the actual meaning of the festival is to create a large temple, so that people come to stroll the Quartet.
I certainly would not buy a ticket unnecessary Look at the performance, simply on between the various food stands deterred, by the way look different ethnic wear - not a costume will not be an exaggeration, but the same bright, more real.
Cylinder-shaped flowers, wearing hat, of course, those black & Poor's Sani girl, hat there is a bow in front. However, they are most special clothing is a belt, the end of a series of red or colors of the balls, each the size of tennis, patchwork manner Dangling from behind, it is an attractive option. While their clothes, are like to use a similar silk of the material will, affixed above the reflective dot or flower and bird designs.
The most famous is the Miao girl pleated skirt. Mostly white, normal will be embroidered lace with a few careful that still hang from the waist started a string of beads network, while the small colored beads Tiefu to cover the whole skirt, the look very much like the ancient Han woman attire. Painting a kid costume beauty, I am often designing this kind of "network Shaqun beads" is now in the stage, he still has to see a similar clothing, put on its role, multi-class characters is a princess.
Zhuang's Clothing more simple, almost entirely of dark blue coarse cloth. Jacket, Xie Jin, neck, elbow each circle pattern. They usually line a flower apron, looks like the bottom of an embroidered jacket. The most distinctive is their hat, that is, Baotou, although the color uniform blue-black, but both sides of the tilt, like a pair of wings, and ears is also a pair of brown tassels hanging, looks like a hung up two short braids .
Have seen a few come from outside should be wearing a flower hat like the style of the Bai.
There are several selling halal food, girl, wearing a thin silk scarf, from the forehead had been fastened to the chin, only to face leaving a triangular space, a typical Muslim dress. Only later did I know, there are four Muslim villages.
Landscape seen style to see more, I started hanging around in my accommodated in the village - a "farm fun" activities.
I live in this village, the entrance of legislation of "Fairy Cave Yi ecological culture first village," the brand is clearly a masterpiece of the local tourism sector. Here is the Sani-populated areas, almost every house hangs "Nongjiale" signs as hotels. I live in what is called "lotus pond Nongjiale", while the neighbors were called "lotus pond Nongjiale", "Lotus Nongjiale", "lotus leaf Nongjiale" - these names are enough to explain the surrounding environment. Go out the door Hawthorn, natural rustic beauty, people relaxed and happy.
These are only visible during the day. Here I stay there at night, when nearly 10 points, the room also serves as a simple rough Heart doubts. D'black person that day to the already dark. Prior to the S & P by the black hotels made a phone call, knowing Erhualian the room during the festival were booked. Then ask around and found that although there are some hotel rooms, but prices have been taking advantage of overstating.
I have a lead the way, was the one from Wenshan to qiubei started the car to me was approached by local people. To listen to his words do not understand, but generally understand that he wanted to take the initiative to help. To show goodwill, he did not even dig out ID card system, the language barrier has made me mistakenly thought he was Putin himself who happened to go to black, so they obediently and took him.
But gradually felt wrong, this person I thought of another way of sets of names, telephone numbers and addresses, and said he was all right, made a special trip to me lead the way, if I am willing to him that two days have come Peiwo Wan.
Although expensive hotel rates did not say I do not live, but added this "big brother" a rebuff for me, finally took me to the village to the dark and to blanket in front of my face and bosses in order to the price of 50 yuan for me to set this only one with a toilet room - of course, the role of decoration than practical. Moreover, the room has never been cleaned, mosquito corpse actually covered with white sheets.
Along the way I want to get rid of him but I never succeeded, but one of us to see him in order to express a wide range and constantly and people say hello, I will do that bottom of the heart, unless this place is a whole black den, or else I fear that he could have What tricks.
And the sky was late, I decided it would later say.
Insisted that "Big Brother" has been perfect virtue, then there is no need for him to help and took him away and started figuring out the next day to early detection market, from another place to stay to avoid this guy to run over again Bushihaodai.
Mosquito boss sent me and asked me: "Just now he said you are his friends?"
I said: "He said you are his friend."
We all smiled, as if in tacit.
The next day the sun well, made me feel fearless. Exploration results, the whole village are private hotels, at the same time act as a "peasant music" attractions, not unscrupulous business practices. With the arrival of the festival who Erhualian tide, let alone one place to another, there can keep on the good job - the boss has been urging me to make an early decision still living do not live.
Thus a prompt decision Zhuxia Qu. From the next day price mentioned as 70, but has considered cheaper. And the boss what I mean to re-clean the room, feeling Yehao a lot.
The most important thing is, that no further Qiubei people came to see me, I finally feel comfortable living in the three nights.
Almost every household in the village hall room are hung with an interesting plaque: Heaven and Earth KMT and the PFP division.
Entrance to the village is a large bamboo, bamboo is an outdoor open deep in places, is said to have a bonfire night party. To go any further, it is some Yi unique stone carvings, modeling eccentric characters and faces and ghosts in general look and attitude, about belief in god is a Yi.
Continue along this road, we see the two mountains lined. Ahead is farmland farming area, leading to another village. Up the hill then we can see that some of Tiankeng cave, like the "old Fairy Cave," I do not know why abandoned, it seems is nothing worse than it is now the Fairy Cave.
Good night moon, big and round, bamboo forest, the more the crowd gather more still have not seen the opening evening bonfire. Suddenly a horn siren voices who claim to be what the S & P Black Management Area Director, bonfire party changed places, let us follow him.
It's that thousands of people in the darkness, moving in a direction away raging. Suddenly, in front of riot was underway, saying it was also changed in place. Sure enough, the sound horn sounded again, saying that to change back to the original location. "Please believe me, party will be held."
Idle is idle, I decided to simply follow in the end, do a thorough observer.
Facts have proved that, then it is a perfunctory matter to a "bonfire party." Hundreds of tourists surrounded by a small group of people entertain themselves, that what the management of the district director for holding a speaker to serve as master of ceremonies, so that it has failed to make out all the stops rolling atmosphere. Stir constantly dissatisfied with the crowd issue, the Director has had to constantly reassure: "We actors are transferred over, please be patient."
The whole process, I am a man ran to the hills next to read. To this mountain, the famous "secret sticks forest", this time surrounded by a dark, full moon reflection of Seiki and the following up of the light open space to play around swaying branches long shadow, brightened up a bit bleak. I stood in a large rocks, the commanding looked quite deserted the station's "bonfire party." So boring scenario, then the strange environment, I actually be able to stride to spend more than an hour, when the spies themselves feel that this is the quality, or else detectives is required.
Actor is not the end came, to a few large speakers. So at almost 10 o'clock when the raging bonfire finally ignited, along with the speaker broadcast cheerful melody inside, visitors were holding hands danced around the bonfire. I quickly ran down and take pictures.
After a trying to get to, and the crowd suddenly dispersed, the original wipe Erhualian's activities began.
I also grabbed the camera to capture subjects, all of a sudden next to it was washed over, move very quickly to my face and wiped a handful, but also mortal drill into the crowd went. Look to see me at a loss, next to a girl hastened to comfort me: "We are here to wipe Erhualian is that like you, for your blessings, not malicious."
Oh, I am of course aware that the collective prank Well happy. So the girls took me two photographs are provided for the occasion. (Unfortunately, it grew too dim, washed out pictures of almost scrapped.)
Back to the residence a look Amazing, both sides of the face is dark charcoal, and even ears have really become a big Erhualian of. Fortunately, complacent with a towel, water, quickly washed off of.
- Later, a local told me, the villagers must do it with lard coated charcoal to wipe Erhualian and told you can not easily washed off.
Was wiped Erhualian was before I left, S & P gave me a black person happy gift.
5, Shilin and Expo
Back to Kunming, I attended the Stone Forest tour.
Whether long-term short-term, provided that travel on the Staff Committee and ultimately visiting the shop this item. Moreover it is said Chen Yuanyuan his way Guaiqu hair cultivation over a three-month tour Yongfu Temple, a moment when you reach the Stone Forest was already noon.
Eaten lunch, braving hot sun into the area, head milling around, brightened up the heat a bit. Fortunately, the tour takes us to avoid the crowd, specifically to go cool trails. That's good, anyway Shilin is a two billion years ago, the seabed stones, look at this one with Look at a similar.
Stone Forest scenery both God and the creation of exquisite earth-shaking significance of the Sani people lived here, is another Road landscape. I have found here, with the S & P Sani people who dress different from black, belt tail no longer have those cute little balls, hats, bows were separated on both sides of the ears move, but it is more colorful clothing.
Yi said that the clothing is the most complex, because there are more than 20 branches. Clearly, even if the same branches, in different places have different dress habits.
Yunnan, the last day spent at the Expo.
Realistically speaking, the present exposition is impressive, not worth a visit. Expo has been in the past number of years, leaving behind the large garden has become a basket case. Decay pavilions, flowers, trees and sparse. Basically, every indoor and outdoor exhibition area have become tourist commodity shops, selling things that are similar, no more than the national costumes, local products and so on.
100 yuan ticket is really spent some injustice. But I still insist on walking inside for a whole day, have been to almost all the commercial counters, until the whole garden is completed, and almost blistered feet.
The reason, in addition to be fair to their 100 yuan, but also to a small ring.
6, rings the story
The trip of the most bizarre thing.
Erhualian the opening ceremony that day, I have those black & Poor's "temple" on buying a Thai silver ring. Set in her fingertips, just accounts for the length of a finger. Complex showing the simple, exquisite disclosed in generous style, and let me titter low price (such as a ring in Guangzhou boutiques will certainly be tens of dollars, but here only offer 10 yuan, finally, I bargaining 4 yuan turnover), so I have been picking up a big Qiexi cheaper, happily wearing a day.
Only one day.
The next day to Yongfu Temple. Temple looks simple, but in guides such as the spring clever tongue, seemed extraordinary position. Guides has been said a lot of twitter, I have been into the left ear right ear out, simply did not listen carefully. Such as tour guides say that we are lucky, "said Hung Yuan master" a few days ago just in order to participate in an important Buddhist activity, moved into this temple. But I totally do not understand matters of Buddhism, this master of how lofty status, the significance of this event there are more important, and I matter?
To the hall, tour guides picked up Qiantong that draw people here not the same as with the Han, not shaking, but readily drawn from the Qiantong 1. He let each of us draw teams to sign, saying it was free. Out of courtesy, coupled with the ballot I think is more reasonable and closer to Buddhism made no correction features, so they line up with everyone by drawing lots.
Qian Tong Qing-out from a readily handed over to the little monks, who Qian Tong. He went on to the past, look at me, smiled: "One sign."
Is not it? I am suddenly a little surprised. Have just finished a tour guide on a legend on the 1st to sign!
Unfortunately, I was again off on a tangent did not listen carefully. I only remember that the protagonist of the story is probably the master of military power in Yunnan Province that year, namely, when the turmoil in the current situation can not decide whether or not to surrender to the Communist Party, then went to Yongfu Temple, and the abbot master seminars three days, but also the support from Qian Tong Village pump One sign - this sign his name happens to contain "dry" - realized that God willing, determined to surrender, and later also became the first governor of Yunnan Province.
This one was given the legendary sign, were ordinary people be able to get me what's the use?
Take about to sign out of paper, on the 1st "dry" Gua, Shangshang Qian. My life has never been able to get off Shang Shangqian it, so have been studying. It seems, however looked, do not think how wonderful sign language is right, not necessarily Yimapingchuan every success, adding that any errors do fiscal. - I have any financial you can lose?
Out of the hall, please take a picture guide to help me. Tour guide suddenly asked me: "Do you want to see Hong-yuan master?"
"Ah?"
Tour guide asked again: "Do you want to see Hong-yuan master?"
I do not know how leng the answer. Hong Yuan Masters Who are you? To participate in an important Buddhist Buddhist's an important figure, but, but ... ... with me? Nanbu Cheng tour guide know that I took this on the 1st to sign? Nanbu Cheng signed on the 1st are eligible for the draw and Hong Yuan master dialogue?
Baffling. I prevaricate of "No, see also no use ... ..." quickly fled.
Fled to the toilet.
Hand was also carrying something wrong anxious one hand, rocket just wearing a ring one day - right, and it is not closed - fell into the pit went to Shu Di ... ...
The moment I can not react. This is, how's going on? Is not only pumped the Shang Shangqian do? Loss of earnings?
Yijingyizha, ending his brief stay in Vinh Phuc Temple. I have in mind the lost property, to simply treat this place as the exposition boutique chain stores, hoping to obtain other an inexpensive silver rings.
Here is indeed a lot of silver, sterling silver Thai Tibetan silver alluvial gold, and prices have been overstating, but also still more than the streets of Guangzhou, the low boutiques several Hum. I certainly do not expect to be able to buy exactly the same ring, similar to they like. But do not know whether it was too deep impression on the ring out? Transfer of most of the day, Tibetan silver bracelet also bought one, that is, did not see a desired ring.
The afternoon 34 points, the Expo has quickly closed down. I suddenly discovered in a counter the ring! Really is exactly the same pattern, although not as good as the original rocket gloss is good, the price is relatively high (the results of my bargain, or spend more than the original piece of money), but this can be "regained", are also considered a miracle.
I am all the way to scrutinize the hands of the rings, complacent. That is destined destined ah! Today, I live up go feet swollen.
Temporary out of Expo, I finally, on a trip to the toilet. This, of course carefully, rings safe and sound.
To go out, boarded a bus back to hotel. A smooth way without words.
I am pleased to small packets of knocking the bed, took off his shoes and accessories on hand 11 In addition to down - the way results have been ornaments to attract, I have a drag on the fingers and wrist are more naturally.
Suddenly I am stunned and speechless: the ring then? Also gone!
No fingers, small bag no, even the old drink plastic bags did not!
However, how lost it? I do not feel how? Is clearly on the front of the car still look, then, can only be lost on the bus it? However, the car was empty, I sat on the window Yi Shangju single seat, from beginning to end did not stand around all extraordinary. Road is very shun, turn do not have much, but there is no "subversion" down the reasons for it?
Baffled. Lost & Found, lost it, and I eventually did not这枚fate of the ring, the trip has become the biggest mystery.
Then think, really is not enough Yongfu Temple devout? However, the small matter of Correctional big ring, supposedly also fail to get how I am, after all, although I do not burn incense and worship, but not Kengmengguaipian - at least not owe people money.
- Stone Forest Day Tour I was contacted by phone, and travel agents to pick the person I only know that my room number, do not know my name and identity. Good day, said that swimming is 100 yuan, but actually forgot the busy tourist guides take me money. I went back to hotel think of it, suddenly ideological struggle up: This is regarded as people's fault, not my thing, how can we make the truth is not cheap? Moreover, such a day trip, travel agents, tourists tend to get slaughtered top university, the difference I am a person's money, they in fact suffered no loss, but they have a symbolic blow to the meaning of the Man You Well.
After much thought, or else incumbent, a hotel, so that they can not find? Otherwise just wait for them to find up well, are not I have intentionally not Jiaoqian. However, till 22 o'clock more or a little static and dynamic at all. I finally running out of patience, pick up the phone dial the phone a travel agent - alas, but also a waste of a long distance and roaming charges - to inform them to collect the money.
People come quite in fast. End of the money received left a business card, thank you have no more to say. I feel very Mogu Qi, alas, was not born when the bad guys of the material, but to self-mockery: the negative, I would rather people not to I'll take one.
7, regression
Aircraft in the Baiyun airport.
A boot door, a surge of heat waves hit, smoked wishes to faint.
Only later did I know that I leave it a week, the Guangzhou suffered a 38-degree heat, this year's highest on record. July Jiaoyangsihuo whole, but also achievements in the history of a rare once in 50 years.
Everyone says I will pick the summer time. Tiandeliangxin, as I really did not expect one in Yunnan Province is so cool in the world. Only in this steamer like atmosphere, the heart of a latent defect has health bar. Intent is also just want to go out and breathe, after all, hold back a half-year.
A result, ended up unintentionally getting results Yum.
2003.8
Author: fannylian
