Xpress and the Bank ---- Lijiang
Flying height continues to decrease, and we circled the edge of the mountain, that mountain overlay stretches thousands of miles, the distance is then set fire to the clouds, taken the door, you can board the Peak; sunset, such as blood, dyed the half, one side are the Yunnan-Guizhou plateau, side of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. On that pass, catch a glimpse of the gray tiles, low room, civil wall, Yishanbangshui patchwork. Lijiang is up.
Water tankers, in the ancient city entrance, Qing Wu slow turn, like a janitor for the elderly, in the town to you, recounting the countless years of history Feng Yan; that stream of notes plowed your heart, with thousands of thoughts and feelings. Is not a reincarnation is an old soul, take you into the tea-horse town.
Tea-Horse Road, between the coil in the mountain valleys, followed Sichuan-Yunnan-Tibet, extending into Bhutan, Nepal, India, reaching as far as West Asia, West Africa, red coast. Caravan come and go, pack away the tea, brought back the exotic property, that the mottled dried footprints, passing the original nature, but also in the direction of modern civilization, it is one of the Plank Road to connect the multi-ethnic blood. Lijiang ancient town is on a Tea-Horse Road Inn, Ma created the town's prosperity, but also because of its geographical position the edge of potential, making here, became the Han and Naxi, Tibetans and other ethnic minorities city cultural exchange. A large number of inns, many of the numerous shops, vaguely see past the Tea-Horse Ichii's prosperity.
Waterwheel Department, upstream, bypassing the landscape, let me see Naxi Ren. See Naxi Ren, first of all to see the Naxi woman. We are backpackers, all the way through it, from time to time localization of the Naxi woman came forward, his face earnest, sincere asked whether you want to live in inns, meals, car, horse riding, shopping, tour guides and so on. They spoke the Han, then, dressed in Han Chinese clothing, look at their business cards, and last name, text name mostly Naxi surname, the above is also engraved with the world's only still alive ---- Dongba hieroglyph hieroglyphs. People here are mostly native Naxi people's Dongba religion deeply respect for nature and the Dongba culture, nurtured, rustic natural, friendly, amiable. Naxi is a woman headed, the men hanging around, women are a symbol of power and family prosperity. Look at a busy sidewalks, dressed in coarse blue shirt, Pleated apron, wrapped in thick sleeveless jacket, laundry, cooking, carrying water, vegetables, streets and marketplaces are Naxi woman to make a living.
Not far away, wooden side, we saw an old man, sitting in front of the setting sun shines, under the shade, a gentle breeze, little bit of scattered sunlight, written in the elderly face. Perhaps you seen such a photo, front of the house basking in the sun, dark face, deep wrinkles, rough hands, nicks the years that we are in front of the Naxi old lady.
Upstream, look at scenery, sound of flowing water, An Liu green, stone promenade, gray tiles dwarf room, ancient natural, restaurants and bars, the city people, roaming among the scenery is built. Little Paris, cherry house, each one inside a small room, all have many stories. Sitting in the window, the window is small bridges, the window is blankly in a daze.
Unconsciously, we arrived at the center of old town Square Street. Square Street, surrounded by shops Inn surrounded by the streets are paved stone, mottled Street, SHI Cheng-thing of the past carrying an open-air market flows through thousands of years. See, however, that the river Shupang, sitting with a group of Naxi the elderly, play cards and chat spoke ancient and modern. Some say that Square Street is a virtual has real, actual situation and-white world. During the day, lively clamor miscellaneous, to the night, letting them silently disappear streets and marketplaces, quiet ethereal moonlight diarrhea over a house one street, straight out from that pool of water overflow.
Our inn, in the eternal city on the floor next to the Lion Rock. Climb the stairs and slowly passed, road slope ramp turn, even higher level, another layer of landscape. And gray tiles powder wall, built on mountains, pavilions ups and downs, Yan Jiao Ru-fei, a long front of the house there is moss, on-street long have weeds. Afterglow, Phi sprinkle in the Mid-slope, so that the roadside hawkers are selling silver, takes up a bit of glory, we saw that decorated the silver device on the Olympus flashes, blurred the mountain down the mountain people.
Wang Old Town Inn, the owner said, looking over the hemispherical dome, unique to this one. Wangcheng standing units, overlooking the city, the situation panoramic view. Distance curl smoke, and moving into the air, and clouds connected to the horizontal in the opposite half-way up, not tell, is not the outer Fei is human smoke, the wind before, rains will be removed and was in a dream or in the human ?
Inn is the old Naxi dwellings, surrounded by enclosure, the middle day, well, wooden structure, two-story building. The owner is also a backpacker who came to Lijiang, in love with this place, could not bear to leave, they rented a few houses here, as he runs the inn, while keep watching their dreams and freedom. He surnamed Li, Mo Yang thirty or forty-year-old dream of, yet we call him Xiao Li. Xiao Li Qi Jian hair, of medium build, dark-faced, looking healthy clear. Li was previously at university is learning from the West linguistics has undergone a number of things, the backpack away world, he said that it was foreseeable that he can not find to see where a small faint Pianyu this way. Wangcheng stage jug of wine, hold negative attitude towards worldly love and worry. Xiao Li talked, voice low, slightly a little hoarse, but he was chatting up a little literary talent Wu, suddenly surging, like a talented Smirnov-nomadic poet, but also to demobilize the battlefield like a general. A pot of tea, the chatter of the city's rougher edges, myth and decline, and straight talk to the beating in the darkness sing thin, the ancient city of lights are bright.
Say goodbye to Alan, came to international youth hostels, backpacker's camp, our friend who lived here. And they know before they come online, and have not met, but you can backpack to go with a friend. Lijiang is our first stop, but behind the long journey on the Tibetan Plateau. To find a few people walk together, you can make friends with each other along the way can also be anaphoric to improve the safety factor, reducing the cost of self-tour, met a good scenery, but also to share with you people crazy with. I remember on the plane, I took my StrategiesChinaInc line rows of sourcing in the past, and thus know the girls and boys Nina Roy, they are alone came to Lijiang. In my youth hostels outside the message bar to see a lot of unaccompanied backpackers seeking issued by post with the same tour. When entering the hotel, has 78 previously did not know each other friends in a warm discussion, I am here to join to boil up.
Our route dangerous, and long distances, Judy and Jesse erratic, but ultimately did not take place. Only Roy support my Raiders, but only half of the distance attendant. Nina them to Lijiang as the center, close play tomorrow, went to take the marriage practices that are Mosuo people's paradise Lugu Lake. Up until the time line, car rental, accommodation costs and the next stop off the set, I propose to go clubbing, we have to respond. In the out of time, I also posted a look for "donkey" notice in the message bar.
We walk in the way to the bar. Evening stroll in the bluestone road, wind gently, weeping willows Yiyi, its winding paths, looming shadow of ancient curtain Korea. Where tourists do not have the usual hubbub of the city, quietly-spoken, afraid of disturbing the silence of the ancient city of souls for thousands of years. That lanterns hung in the river branches, reflecting the river Ambilight. Not into the bar, the river had been drunk wandering people. Only to hear the "thump" heard, they really going to the river where it was drunk in this? Turn back, looked Xunsheng are passers-by stoning, startled the wave of ripples, waves rippling in the river, in the wall, in the hearts of visitors.
Xiao Li said that a good Inn Little Paris. Then fell in love with a French boy came to Lijiang, a Naxi girl, and also like the small town, he stayed and opened a bar called Little Paris. Girls will not be a foreign language, so that French young people learned to speak Chinese.
Into the bar, I saw after the boss is busy busy before, that was it for her obsession with a small group? In a dark corner, alone, Zizhenziyin, listening to music, pensive, it's nostalgia, is a romantic, is sad, is reverie, or miss?
Lin Chuang sitting here clean elegant, soft lighting, soothing voice, in this listening to music, drinking tea, reading, relaxing contentment. Hungry, and there are all kinds of flavor snacks, tired, hair daze, or lying down also did not care for you. Approached the event of the passing, chat, or even speak of a sad past, At the end, dispersed, have no idea on the name. A girl among us, just spent three days this town.
Come, come, drink a large glass of beers, we then, the more up, from different places, ancient and modern, but talked more to this trip. Margin margin margin, another drink, we saw across the girl, his face appearing faint blush, sound graceful tactfully, exhaled, such as orchids, out of the window Fengyi Chui, hair fluttering in the wind, people also like fluttering in the wind, which Weizui beauties drunk riverside willows, drunk water out the window, drunk sitting opposite sweetheart. In the meantime, Nina tomorrow they travel, go ahead, and Roy stayed on, and there are two friends drove all the way from Kunming eolian come. Friends came and went, and then another friend come ... ...
When we go out, it was found long ago under the rain. Some of halo spin, wind shake Liu, suspected of moving the tree to come to Rotary, the rain is pouring, wake up way too go back. Through the ancient city back to the Inn.
Lying in bed, I wake up. Looked out the window on the roof and down rain infiltration, feeling for a long time did not listen to the rain of the. Night lying listening wind rain, Didi blah sound, as though old caravan passed from the window. Breeze blowing, with rain, and a great wetting my thoughts. Soon as Ray ring in the sky, and that lightning is a tunnel through time, bring me back to childhood that rainy night. Vaguely heard the city, but on the ascension Naxi ancient music, misty misty indistinct, I fell asleep holding the Sound Of Nature ... ...
Early morning wake up, hear the birds, I wonder if I wake up in the bird, or earlier by my snoring alerted that the branches of the bird. Out the window, the sky blue, such as washing, occasionally a trace of clouds, as if it is next to the Fairy Tianchi scattered in the spun yarn. Days of high, thin clouds, the wind gently, one day a good mood.
Out of the door, the city came to look on stage last night Yuxi, the ancient city of fresh and natural. I saw the distance, a dragon, towering into the sky, straight into the sky, it is true Yung Jian Xian Yulong Snow Mountain. Well, breakfast is here to eat. Called for a bowl of Nasimi line, delicious, delicious, really delicious, just one of those dotted spicy enough to conquer my stomach. Look at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, it has already become a Qingtangguamian. You see, stomach how important it is ah, even the best scenery, not as immediate a bowl of delicious noodle.
Speaking of eating, one morning we traveled the streets of Lijiang, Lijiang, look for snacks Cuisines. I must mention the Lijiang Baba, whether it is online StrategiesChinaInc, or in the Cuisines of the introduction, the saying do not eat a lot of money to the Lijiang Lijiang Baba. It is said that the invention and the Tea-Horse Road is also related, made from wheat, oil and many non-degenerate, easy to carry long-term. In the bridge around the corner, bought a Lijiang Baba, eating a good-bye it, has entered into a trash can. Too difficult to eat, and this oil is also too much bar, cold Baba, and a bite oil DC. Is it really sealed a long time, which are filled with oil and gas, kept trained on the flavor of the wall Chen. I think, at that time, I am sure that is not in the caravan were removed from a tea-horse ancient road on one. Is also hard to say, to adapt to make the most beautiful Lijiang Baba became dinner.
Moreover m enema, sticky rice, and poured them into the pig's blood sausage, the slices fried to come back on. A Look at the color, black and a few hemp peace, my appetite had been knocked over in one place. But to eat them, then overflow to the aroma, turn my stomach Fu up, irresistible, ate three, and stopped, got tired.
How much time I hope I did not drink in Lijiang Nawan butter tea. That has let me mental state how many times around the soul, in a dream to take me into the Tibetan Plateau, approached the Shangri-La and into the buttered tea ah pastoral home, I am not used to drinking. Not as good as always stood quietly watching quietly away. In the ensuing journey in Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and in-depth Tibetan hinterland and there is no drink one, my dear butter tea.
In the out of Lijiang city, I miss the early morning from Nawan Rice Vermicelli.
Rent a bike ride north, the immediate is a vast stretch of wilderness, in its deep set off with an ancient village, this is the first settlements of Naxi ancestors - Beam River.
When entering the village, several old people sit in the shop next to the junction slipped and told us that this is a real town, his voice reveals a hint of arrogance, as if laughing at a show in Lijiang City.
This is a quiet village. If we say that in Lijiang city, you see the red light off paint brush, kissing to be faded in You Qiwei, look to see that this man-made antique plot, then you can see here, Naxi houses, stone Itabashi, ancient theater House, tanner Street, Mati Yin, that is, that there is no cover up of the ancient and natural, and even some run-down, there is little vicissitudes.
I do not know a dream body is off, just because his heart in the middle painting. Inn is not everywhere, no feasting, no bustling crowds, no small business operators, there is no noisy downtown, the cattle to graze cattle, the farm, farming, the laundry laundry, some fresh green of the mountain wind, clear bottoming out rivers, swimming fish ... ...
Alley, there is a lunch break of the mules, lying by the roadside; black pigs in the road in the walk swaggering; Huagou elongation of the tongue, under the shade of a tree enjoying the breeze; Naxi woman at the leisurely walk, old man squatting on the steps of adsorption long-tube pipe. Man and beast, to come and go, no problem.
There is also a like Lijiang Dayan Town Square Street in general. There are several around the shop, but they closed the door, the wind and rain, and that dead wood doors and windows in general, saying it's centuries of vicissitudes.
Doors and windows, then come here often, how the youth, then eclipse off the tap as du temps a blossoming, doors and windows together in the ring and slowly grow old and spend the with each other can not see any to each other, but each note printed each other's beauty.
Door said: I have old.
Window said: In my mind, you are beautiful.
Fifty years later, and my wife seems to have dialogue.
Quartet snacks are sold on the streets, and that snacks color Gray-green, fried or cold in there, flies, flying around the sky in Montreal. Only later did I know that the snack is called the chicken bean jelly beans. Is caused by a hen in a specific area of the pea made of. Stalls sat before a pair of Guys and Dolls, side catch flies, eating grass jelly beans with chicken. That man back of deja vu, but not clear. Around to look, the original Roy. Roy Yesterday was aware that we need to come here, while the beam is not in his river plan. Of the situation must have occurred, and that is pretty close to Roy MM ... ...
Roy also see us, he was not surprised, but greeted us to eat chicken bean jelly beans. Case of girls thought that Roy foreign land refresher, explained hurriedly that they only know just this morning, I told her yesterday, this time we do not know Roy who he is. Eventually, everyone laughed happily, laughing very pure and very sincere.
Girl named stirred up, from Shanghai, has spent two days in Lijiang, this morning out of the hostel, cross the threshold, lift knee is too low, a reel, ran into a boy, this man is Roy. The development of the story as the movie can see the same, if stirred up as early as 0.01 seconds out or night out, they will slip past, but also, in this moment, stirred encountered Roy. I made fun of Roy, do not know how long you are waiting at the door, finally capture the such a coincidence, and the scene raise the threshold of whether they have been suspect. Roy, embarrassed, and Mangjiang subject diverge.
Stirred beautiful hearty, and very talented, so we are pleased that we can together chartered to Zhongdian. This, is a coincidence. Stirred to join, has deepened our understanding of the Roy. Roy smart, enthusiastic, thoughtful work, and very considerate of others. I think the perfect mountain climbing, happy endless ... ...
In front of an inn, is a martial arts inside the Dragon Inn. To go the military, there is an old man plus house old Mrs Cimei good side, there is no Choudao knives to injure the signs, door-tang quiet, no other Keguan phase interference, look at their granaries, rice dishes without stale flavor, and enough to fill fed stomach. Decided at this meal.
This is a veritable buffet lunch, one person to do a dish, pots and pans, laughter, with gusto. To be fond and rest a while after they leave for Pak Sha Tsuen, Baisha fresco concept.
We are speeding on a ridge in the countryside, Cui Liu grass in the breeze to catch up with the inside clouds, the fields in the hills where the clouds kiss the sky. Only heard back, "ah" is heard, the tone is not as lyrical, it seems some people trouble. Busy brake back, we saw stirred, khaki-colored purse, military water bottles, cowboy hats, big head boots, plus a "mud" color clothes, how a cool Zile De. It turned out that the ride had stirred up the muddy water, a beach, the wheels were cards, threw down. Fortunately, people and vehicles are all right.
Baisha murals, according to legend is a cross between Zen and Tantric dissolve the embodiment of Tibetan Buddhism and Chinese Buddhist mutual penetration of the crystal, drawing from the early Ming and early Qing has lasted 300 years. When we went to see the murals Hall is a lock on the door. This is a lock, lock the Sakyamuni, locked the three Guardians, locked the four kings; locked history, locked the gods. I can not play from the Red Dust 100, so lock me outside of the gods. But my heart was allowed to fly through the heavy door that came before the Buddha, only hear the sound of jis, as if the masses 1000 Fotu a low voice singing: my heart has been Xiangfo no intention of kicked up dust.
Do not see the murals, sitting in front of watching children play, and we joked national football's future is here, although they can not even decent pairs of football shoes are not, some of them barefoot kicks, but is playing good-looking than the national team, which is our common assessment.
The back to Lijiang, and circumventing the countryside trails, came to asphalt road, this is an old road, no vehicles, we will be stirring up a car on the road to. With each other to catch up with heaven and earth boundless joy are boundless. The wind off, the rains cloud, and then they played under the rain. Jizhao Che, Lin Zhaoyu, singing songs, and soon the fruits of a self-park, Entering the park, but found that immature peach, melon is still small, plum Sentimental and told me how the next exit? But here, the air is very pure, scenery is very pure, very pure heart. This is the rain come and go, and now he is the sun is high.
Finally back to Lijiang. Also a car going up the river, far Azi saw a man sitting exhausted water table, smoking, drinking, a daze. The reason why a distance recognize Azi is due to her share of melancholy beauty, which the United States across the water spray can also distinguish them. Azi is a half-breed, just resign soon, nor a hurry to find work. Last night at the bar, she also trip pending, early this morning up and went to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, a mountain sickness her stomach empty, pale. Azi character random, erratic. She said she did not come out when the soul, did not come with ourselves, will do nothing, letting his tired with making mental energy failure, sense of weakening, so that later died, to wait for that new lease of life happiness. This is a heavy girl injured, and we hope she can rest in Lijiang good, because no matter how good, but Lijiang is a place of healing. She said when she had the pain is better than later, to Shanghai and come to us. After dinner, bid farewell to Azi, in the fork in the road, and stirred up, Roy broke up, we returned to Old Town Inn observation.
Washed End break for a while, his wife went to bed. Once again, I hope the city came to the stage, where the fleet have been sitting better person. Both inside and outside walls, breeze moon, lights sometime. Today's comrades more of a silence and a daze, occasionally there are one or two words, may also wish to spare. Sit. Suddenly remembered the one passing through a few words written on the door on the inner edge of self-monologue: here, if you look back, it will be less remembered somewhat regret a little more pleasant; if you contemplate, this minds of this would be a bit less heavy and a little more relaxed; if you are intoxicated, it would be less intoxicated inside a bit unreal, a little more real.
Millennium city, Tea-Horse Road, catering, freight, live in dreams; flashy earth, to fend for themselves; Oh, drunk drunk, waking up is that the removal of the cloud rains the mountains.
From now on, how many times, you will appear in my dream?
Farewell, Lijiang.
Ye Weiping
2003.8.2. Shanghai
Author: junwan