Ever tired this year, was GRE and TOEFL vocabulary and ETS's magic changed their tactics not a human form I think the torture of whether the rest? Anyway, I feel that should be a break, walk outside, breath of fresh air, take a look at the outside world, perhaps destined for me and nature, the nature of it, I remember reading one travels in May, saying that the walk across the Tiger Leaping Gorge is said to go through arduous climb involved, but also foreigners travel to China must go down the road on foot. Think of the Chinese people unlike us poor foreigners, foreigners can take An Men Chinese people not fall behind, so he decided to challenge what I was exhausted physically and mentally tortured ETS, the way you can practice speaking foreigners are said a lot of ah ------- Unfortunately, my trip was two MM know, they asked me (I was single) go ------- Oh, is not envy ah? But I am depressed --------- -------- 2 MM 1 has been married, one is about to get married, I rely on, I would like to help them pack! I faint! That the male compatriots will have to be careful, do ... ... Haha, the next thing to look for materials, I have made a more than 40 online pages of information on the trip were made about the arrangements, reporting to the two ladies, they look at to still relatively satisfied with the end, is preparing items such as sunscreen, drugs (cold medicines - cold pass, high altitude medicine - Rhodiola, fluorine haiku acid, do Ding MTX and so on), mountaineering bags, Jackets, a pair of good shoes (hiking shoes best friend I )-----( This is a friendship promotions, in this special thanks, this is a time when Chinese New Year An Men friends, we play cards together, that is, if you like gambling it, I said I did not last, but now they are forcibly pushed into careless, won the 1000 ¥ more, ha ha, so I have no hesitation, ran to store, bought a coating shoes, ha ha had also prepared to buy tents and sleeping bags , taking into account of this journey do not have access, they still save time, next time buy, once again thank my friend and love interest), slippers (very important), good camera, film. In order to back a lot of things I do not, I have repeatedly not to take too much care of two MM something, otherwise very tired climbing, one of which is not the experience of walking, this is the first time in her foot. I also playing a little clever, one way or another Zhuang men and two to go with me, so I can not backpack the. 哈哈---- -------------------------------- I was not too clever? ? ! ! ! ! ! ! ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Everything is in place, only a strong wind ------------------ 2.14 Departure (2 Takeo only to then leave)
Despite drastic changes in 2.13 ---------- ----- Takeo who can not find false, with no way to go, I would rely on! "# ¥% ¥ - ... ...% - ¥% ... ... # ¥ # ¥ *" I am filled with nowhere to vent their anger, that is, these two bad guys in order and so on, I'm not a statutory tickets, train tickets sold out sleeper, and had you can take a hard ride, taking into account the two ladies, or fly bar. Poor poor little beggar, I ... ah ...
2.14 Morning 6.40 to 8.40 to get up in time to Kunming aircraft. Chengdu airport and the two girls meet, halo! Actually brought a beautiful play with the group what these things will happen ----- --- ah, I back up my hiking pack 60 +10 immediately packed! After this check-in, an hour later, I have appeared in Kunming, began an unforgettable 10 days on foot self-service line. Bus Station from the airport to the bus 1 (saving is always a good practice), get off, under the clear sky with light rain, two ladies umbrella, I wore Jackets wandering in Kunming, Dali asked about the car is probably 12 points away, decided to go the same day Dali. Kunming, the park is not fun, online friends are not recommended for long stay in Kunming, as the famous bridge noodle, or come back at leisure or pleasure. 11 points before, 2 mm passed a restaurant that hungry, rushed to the prices asked are not asked, on the point of the noodle to eat, they did not eat breakfast, you can forgive, I would like to have enough time to stop, hey, or give them a little lesson bar, distasteful! ! ! ! ! Asking about the price after eating, each 6! I rely on, a feminist ah! ! ! ! ! My family ate noodle (Nanchong) 2 Chengsi you. There is no way to eat eat, and give you the money bar! (Suggest that you do not at the train station, bus stop to eat) dinner decided to place to eat in the future to me, two ladies had no comment. Ok! Go to the station buy a ticket 74 yuan (also slaughtered) There are several bus stops near the train, it is recommended that you go to the largest, multi-ask, do not be afraid to walk. Generally 50 to Gaoding. As the car the person is not enough only from Kunming 1.00 start around 6.00 to Shimonoseki. Some people gathered around the car, "go to Dali? Bar where I live!" It looks like the back of a big discount is the goal big one to see that come to tourism. We asked the way to Dali, there are more than 10 kilometers, about 30 taxi, by bus (4-way) 1.20 ¥, (10 Road) CMB ¥ 1.50, to one of the hotel owner has been with us. To the bus station and saw many people on board, taking into account the back of a big package, or to sit CMB bar! To the CMB station, left right, etc., etc., but could not a car, one asked, again, the strike collapsed ------ minibus! An Men can not think of a new socialist society there are the working class to strike? ! Or by bus bar, less than 30 minutes, bus to Dali, the boss took us to see the room, in the洋人街near the street has many bars, foreigners like to drink coffee, as its name. Rooms can also be, but we can not accept the price, but only one standard room, the other is a single, odd expensive, little beggar, I ... ... and decided to go to my plan Bai Ming Ju "Qingxin garden." Has just come out from the hotel door, but also surrounded by a group of people, asking it to where they live, I do not want them to struggle, so I've been scheduled to sue out their rooms, and live on "Qingxin Garden", one said, I is "Qingxin Garden "Would you go with me. Then went to User recommended "Qingxin garden." Sure enough, very clean and quiet. User said, "Qingxin Garden" from the洋人街far, but I do not think, in fact, is also not far, this is a residential Bai, there were reportedly several hundred years of history, the courtyard filled with ancient atmosphere, as if back to the distant Nan Zhao the ancient city. Is very good, unfortunately, only a room --- standard rooms, taking into account security, we do not live in "Qingxin garden", but live in "Qingxin garden," the brother of shops, from the "Qingxin garden," a few steps away. This is the two brothers opened a store, "Qingxin Garden" is the old shop, and brother, is a new repair shop, the environment, conditions are good. My friends have the opportunity to better living, "Qingxin garden" Well, it is strongly recommended, for several centuries-old building exudes a kind of cultural atmosphere Bai need to take your time and taste. Settled accommodation, is the time to resolve and stomach problems, in the ancient city looked for a person to eat a lot of restaurants fill belly and began visiting the ancient city of Dali, they found the ancient city where people come and go, but both a man and a woman, a few flower back and forth a little girl selling roses, the original Today is Valentine's Day! 2 MM, looking one, I actually asked this single gave them roses! They said to me out of Peiwo Wan is a great face. If I do not give no man demeanor. I faint!! Very much!!!! Of course, by me sternly rejected. Do not think about two people a marriage, a few married people, I was not肉包子打狗money in their possession, never to return? I am an idiot ah? The results of two MM immediately gave me an exaggeration, and I would also like to break off relations? ! ! ! ! ! ! However, we have to play small to large Hupenggouyou ah! I finally understand the truth ------- a woman is the most poisonous heart! ! ! ! GGDD you must remember me this lesson! This is the bloodshed in exchange for the ah! In order to clean ears, or to meet the people's vanity ,------- to meet my daughter, I really understand that the Monkey King, Tang Seng is really troublesome eh ------- I decided to ask them to clubbing, as Rose Well, do not even think. ------ Anyway, just finished eating, they also could eat Chengsi much! Big deal to contribute to 50 ¥ bar! So straight洋人街, see a bar, three of us went on the arch. Mm over a beautiful, sweet smile to me, sir, what is point? I took a look at the menu, I am happy呀joyful inside watching him! Immediately restored I-hearted nature! You point, casually point, today I pay, do not hesitate, psychological burst Qiexi: eat death you also going gets 50 ¥. A bottle of beer, a few side dishes, we started the open-ended chat, from marriage to the universe, I feel that too few vegetables, plus a few, Thailand, beef and so on exam. Sure enough, a very refined young ladies. Hey, fame and fortune! 12.00, ladies tired and back rest. Along the way the moonlight scattered in our body, quiet street, a few pedestrians pass by, only to hear the rustle of footsteps, a flash, I suddenly had a feeling that if I was, and a beautiful crush together, Hand in hand, stroll the streets in this ancient, time seems to solidification, and gradually, the more we rely on the more tight, An Men of the heart is getting closer, this is how the romantic feeling with the joy ah. Look at a familiar figure ... ... ... ... hey maybe this might even go out with Yan Yu? I am talking to himself ... ... aspire to the impossible home, accounts, bathing, and sleeping. (MM) I'm still the boss blending, arrange the trip tomorrow.
Attached to No. 14 cost: Ticket 430.00 * 3 = 1290.00
Airport Construction Fee (small aircraft) 10.00 * 3 = 30.00
Premium 20.00 * 3 = 60.00
Lunch 17.00
Tickets 74.00 * 3 = 222.00
Medicines 16.63
Film 159.13
Shampoo 18.00
Water 9.00
1822 / 3 = 607
To be continued ... ...
2.15 get up around 6.30 am and found that MM had Huanzai Shui, decided not to disturb their dreams, and one walk alone to enjoy the sunrise Lake Erhai. Cangshan on the cloud cover, the next a goose feather snow, cloud cover of more than 4,000 meters above sea level Cangshan peak, while other places are cloudless. Quietly out of the sun from the horizon, the golden sunlight lit up my face and illuminated the snow-capped Diancang love. Unfortunately, my technical bad, when the film forgot to use hood, (plateau sunshine strong) piece of the photo's good, read the sunrise, and hastened back to the sisters wake up sleep last night and bosses are blending 8.30 carriage to meet us play Erhai Lake, ¥ 2.00 per person, from the residence to the Erhai Lake pier, about 3-4 km. Finally, we believe that a good deal, decided to pack horse, and the driver bargaining, from the hotel to the pier to the Three Pagodas of Dali to return to a hotel full of people 5.00 ¥, ok! Transaction. Wake up a few beautiful moves slowly, 9.30 not getting out Fortunately driver has not arrived. Time is limited, there is no breakfast, the boss called in the following car came, rushed the car, rushed to the pier of Erhai Lake. We are along the old lane long before the line, the morning air is fresh, swaying forward horse carriage accompanied by the jingle bells crisp sound, as if came 500 years ago, ancient Nanzhao along the way very few pedestrians hurry and too, most of the students go to school, I heard hello, a smile, greetings, and simplicity in exchange for good smile. Within a short while, out of Dali, Dali's romantic look at all felt. A beautiful moonlit night last night and this morning to enjoy the wind took the snow made me feel the beauty and charm of Dali. Although in February, but the camellia to open, in the Dali Bai houses each one will be planted a camellia, which may be ancient customs, beautiful Camellia open often Dali the most beautiful season, especially in March, there is Many people aspire to the festival (Bai bosses language) Unfortunately, I do not have time to enjoy this beautiful time. Strong winds, swept through the fields, golden rape quiet opening, but why are dance looked back, white ancient residence located in the Castle Peak under snow-capped mountains cold and windy, snow flying, foot of the mountain wind Rong-Rong , beautiful flowers, spring to thick. Dali's "Wind Flower, snowy night," indeed is a well-deserved reputation ah! Along the way, and groom bragging, saying bad way to go in Yunnan, but this standard asphalt Well good! Groom told us that this is core to Lijiang River during the evening rush-built, the central leaders have been to a lot of Dali, Lijiang, the original road is poor, which is specialized repair the. It seems leaders would do well to extra walk, ancestors planted the tree, posterity will enjoy the cool bar! This is not, An Men also enjoy Hei hei. To the terminal (private pier), the owner to soliciting, asking price 60 ¥, our counter-offer 40 ¥, after several twists and turns, cut into 46 ¥ (slaughtered, it was halfway old KMT ----- subsequently joined Takeo ---- - said that as long as 20 ¥), boat tour Erhai Lake, with the groom meet the agreed 1.00 clock terminals, then we can go back. Boat into the sea, the wind is very big, blow my hat flying children, the poor it is not giving up on me to stay in Dali is gone, into a mind that is not the name of the park, tickets 5 ¥ (forgot to bring student ID), mountains to shoot pictures Cangshan Erhai Dali panoramic view, very beautiful, and fun in the park by boat to the fish village, on the island have discovered that surprisingly fees of 2 mm was furious, hungry, eat burning exam, giving up on me this big beggar (in fact, they are very concerned about the I, But I still want to go to fish village, go shopping, declined their good intentions), take the initiative to send three ¥, small fish village is very small, but there is a breath of life, though most people have set up a stall to make points, a small business, but morals Fortunately, a group of kids came up to me to taste characteristics of three tea Bai, bellowing 10 ¥, I did not do, he saw a pair of young people, obviously tourists, Ying Shangqu, smiled, knowing from Kunming, Sui go hand in hand, went together to visit, there Kunming friends anaphoric, three tea prices cut into 5 ¥ (it really was within the four seas are brothers), and a sister home, drinking tea, chatting, visiting a very residential Dali Bai Ju The cottage, standing very unique beautiful wooden side of a group photo, one out, right outside the old-old mother had a smile (away from home, a smile is definitely the most useful weapon), narrowing the distance between them. Luckily, met Bai young married, gradually shameless about, proceeded to take a look at two little girls standing in the doorway for us to laugh, when we come to one clicks, the shy and hid in the house, leaving a mass bell laughter. In order to save time, and the two friends say good-bye, Kunming, forgetting to leave addresses. Chibaohezu's sister and the two join the board returned, median value obtained from more than one point. By carriage to the Three Pagodas of Dali, a group photo taken at the door (a very expensive tickets Dali Three Pagodas, 60 ¥ more feminist price, but if the new Xiu Guo, tickets up, the original 40 ¥ more!), Accordingly to the Three Pagodas reflection Park, tickets 4 ¥, want to make about the reflection of Three Pagodas, Dali Three Towers is the most famous photographs taken from there. Unfortunately, strong winds can not see the reflection, photographed or to leave. Back to Dali, shopping (MM), a break for a while, buy tickets to Lijiang (35.00 ¥ said you can bargain). To leave Dali, and Dali left me with a good impression, although the wave of commercialization is also deeply affected this ancient town, but the Dali's folk customs are still honest. Away from the reinforced concrete jungle, came to this ancient town, living in the old shops, eating unknown food, drinking good wine in the moonlight, to understand what is unaffected and hate with the group since then.
Waiting for a train ... ... see a Takeo (old KMT) back a large bag, a single one over, she decided to came up blending: "go?", "Lijiang, Zhongdian, Tiger Leaping Gorge." Smell of great rejoicing, subsequently invited to join the intertwined and promised to consult after Lijiang, when vehicles have to just four seats, a flash, several uncle, an old woman pre-empt the car, two MM furious, let's buy a ticket ... ... taking into account An Men China nation's fine traditions, or so on the next bus, and small-Mo (called used to it, although he older than me) go first, an appointment contact in Lijiang, leaving the phone on the bus to leave, go to Lijiang contact accommodation. 40 minutes later, we also embark on the journey to Lijiang.
Around 7.30 pm, to Lijiang, with a small Mo contact was informed that the door waiting for us in the Naxi ancient music, to read the map before, knowing the specific location, get off gradually straight away, who knows just get off and was dragged a group of shops stopped, asked to live their stores, and has been following this we (low season), the entrance to the Old Town of Lijiang, Lijiang, far away saw a sign, large water tankers, next to the inscription Jiang core, many people in that group photo, Lijiang indeed is a tourist spot, visitors are many foreigners from various countries all over the city, inns numerous. Naxi ancient music to the door, all the way to see the small Mo, asking shelter, saying: Common among 15 ¥ one person should be MM request, to live in standard room, so go with the drag store, went to the papaya Inn, Yung slope Inn, the boss Yue 100 ¥ one, and I will quit, too expensive, said outside the Old City 40 ¥ one, even though we live in Old Town of Lijiang, the off-season, but is should be able to bargain, An Men decided to ¥ 20 a person, and the bosses cut, last boss promised 50 ¥ one, and refused to bargain. So decided I'd go to see if there are no more low-cost, off-season few people (in fact, throughout the year in Lijiang is the peak season, but now that I have just a little bit less, but the Old Town Inn numerous, are far from filled, we can Ask a few more, do not rush to stay there), we went out to ask the price, let the boss catch up slope Inn, saying, live in our bar, the price can be discussed, bargained after 45 ¥ a standard room, to the two rooms , MM had one, I and a small Mo. Move in, put down packages, went to look for rice, in large stone found near a restaurant, onto the second floor, looking for a place to sit by water's edge, I chat with a small Mo, 2 MM a la carte, are the happy talk, vegetables, the Startled, the 8 to food, weight extremely rich. Q: "Your point? To eat do not eat the End?" Extremely hungry, Meng Chi and found that worry about excess, vegetables are eaten on average eat three bowls of rice, is simply incredible, and then I (I think) was Eat in Lijiang most sumptuous meal. Take 60 ¥. After dinner, two MM alone (to buy water and beef jerky), I with small MO shopping, go back a bath. MM met two back rest exhausted sleep. At this point almost 12.00. I chatted with small Mo speculation, then went to the riverside bars, clubbing, small Mo inviting guests. Asked for a 3 beer, a point of a fish, a shrimp, a total of about 70 ¥. Lijiang luxury to the next night, the bar filled with tourists, we are far apart to blow for a while, nearly 1.00, small Mo decided to go with us to begin with Tiger Leaping Gorge, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lugu Lake. Then in the arrangements for other routes, and from his mouth that he had just foot-Yang Su. Tiger Leaping Gorge, taking into account the next day to return to an early break Inn. Lying in bed, listening to sleep next to MM, An Men 2 still under discussion tomorrow's arrangements for exchange of information to prepare, read travelogues printed predecessors, formulated the following plan: In the morning chartered to the Tiger Leaping Gorge town (bridge), the way the first to see the Yangtze River town of Shek Kwu first bend (the Red Army over the Yangtze River Office). If the time came, and, End of the tiger jumped, lodging halfway (halfway Inn), if the time was too late, boarding Naxi Ya Ge. End program will have 3.00 or so, thinking about tomorrow's arduous climb involved, lifeless sleep.
Tiger Leaping Gorge, I have come ... ...
Attached to No. 15 cost: Accommodation (14) 70.00 ¥
Ticket ¥ 5.00 * 3 = 15.00
Park Ticket 5.00 * 3 = 15.00 ¥
Reflection Park Ticket 4.00 * 3 = 12.00 ¥
Carriage charges 5.00 * 3 = 15.00 ¥
Motor Vehicles (Dali - Lijiang) 35.00 * 3 = 105.00 ¥
Lijiang Accommodation 22.50 * 3 = 67.5 ¥
For lunch (dinner) 15.00 * 3 = 45.00 ¥
Buy water ¥ 8.00
Beef ¥ 20.00
372 / 3 = 124.00 ¥
6.40 wake up 4.16 am, MM and small-Mo is still sleeping, not easy to disturb the decision of a people to visit Black Dragon Pool (where we can see that peak of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and sunshine Jinshan, scenery great pity ¥ 20.00 tickets, too expensive, on-line that 7.30 may be waived before the morning tickets go). So go out, according to maps referred to in the direction of straight away. From the ancient city to the Black Dragon Pool, about 30 minutes walking (6.00 ¥ fight, not play table, Lijiang is very small, generally 6.00 is entirely possible to your destination). Sky is still black, the whole wrapped in a pre-dawn Lijiang shady, the people on the streets scarce, most tourists and residents are still asleep, which makes thin I can taste the ancient city of Lijiang, walking in a centuries-old streets of the historical sediment on the ancient style of the Naxi house next to the clear Yulong snow from the adjacent river meanders through to drive the old waterwheel, "Karma squeak, squeak Karma" and slowly turn the road without street lights, can see no wires rod, the whole of modern civilization could not see anything related to (Dali, though very beautiful, but now of civilization in order to deeply laid on him the stigma of the times are everywhere ------ poles, cement road surface), by grinding uneven streets and old cottages and the murmur of the river form a beautiful picture, it is difficult to use language to describe the need to personally go to your long experience. Moonlight quiet sprinkle on the roof, old streets, the light and shadow with a coordinated, stroll the old town in the dead of night, time seems to solidification, and wind blowing gently, with fresh air, along with the sound of running water head descend quickly, if the adoption of a time tunnel back to a familiar era of another illusory. Walk right out of the ancient city of north for 20 minutes, saw a few characters jade Longtan Park, and indeed no fees of any kind (they do not get up!). The success of free riders into the park is not, but I not familiar with the road, how could not find the best shooting spots, parks and Li Ren, most of these morning exercises are the elderly, casually ask the way to catch a very enthusiastic to tell Wangnalizou I do not want the wrong direction again, the elderly called the wrong side while running over, bent to give me lead the way, let me strange stranger moved tears, features a move to say thank you (I just can use this word to express my gratitude). Soon they arrive at my destination, there are already several hobble around a tripod, where the fans and so on, and they are compared to I is just a rookie. 7.40 ~ 7.50, the sun finally came out, the snow-covered Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, in the golden sunlight change the color, I see sunshine Jinshan, finished lit, hurried back to the inn, 8.30, small Mo just to get up, pick up things in preparation for departure to the Tiger Leaping Gorge. I went to set breakfast, wake-up MM, eating, blending with the owner, chartered to the town of Tiger Leaping Gorge (bridge), passing on his way to see the first bend of the Yangtze Shigu (not the same path, to go over 30 kilometers road back ), said that the Red Army of the Jinsha River is from there too. Chartered costs 140.00 ¥, HA Lai taxi. After breakfast, clearing house rent (breakfast 9.00 ¥, ¥ 90.00 Su 15), starting.
Scenery along the way can also be, MM suggested a photo off nostalgia, photographed from a mountain road Yulong, Haba two snow-capped mountains, knowing from the Jinsha River valley between two mountains through the Pentium rather than (Tiger Leaping Gorge), on the bus hurry, take out on foot from the Internet to download a map of Tiger Leaping Gorge, to tell you today's schedule, and a short while, to the Yangtze first bend, climb the tall roadside cliff, tired of the kick gas, 1 mm Startled: "finished , I may die in the Tiger Leaping Gorge, I still go back and wait for you to bar! "was all sternly rejected. Film impressions, starting Ben Tiger Leaping Gorge away. Around 1.00 to a bridge, the driver said bridge, and giving money ¥ 140.00, cars go, the roadside restaurant for lunch, (35.00 ¥) asked the boss of knowledge from the bridge there are 7 to 9 km, are faint! ------ This section landslides roads, drivers are unwilling to go, leaving us at the bridge, hateful! Said foreigners who often deceived, but also, in this off! It seems only a foot. Back bag (30 kilograms) the road, the sun is very toxic, dry, gray great. While walking, while bar car. See a pickup truck opened, the show of hands, car stops, blending with the driver, agreed to ride, one 5 ¥, I and the small Mo bragging in the car with the driver, the driver promised to take our free riders into the mountains (into the Tiger Leaping Gorge, overseas visitors to ¥ 30.00 fee into the mountains, he could find local drivers belt, ¥ 15.00 per person), smooth entry into the driver side of our on-leave-Zhongdian, Tiger Leaping Gorge, giving the driver 60.00 ¥ (four) down to gorge at the end, fancy Tiger Leaping Gorge. ---------- In fact, there is only one Tiger Leaping Gorge, and now back into more man-made Tiger Leaping Gorge (including the Tiger Leaping Gorge, in the Tiger Leaping Gorge, the next Tiger Leaping Gorge, these three tiger jump Gorge in Lijiang and Zhongdian was again divided into six two counties, in fact, there is only one Tiger Leaping Gorge, in the Western world, Tiger Leaping Gorge, a great reputation, almost every foot of the foreigners will come to love through Tiger Leaping Gorge is a foreigner China must go on foot, one of the classic line.), the story of Tiger Leaping Gorge will be specified later on .------ the so-called Tiger Leaping Gorge Tiger Leaping Gorge is not in the true sense, in the last tiger jump Gorge to see the tiger jumped stone is the Lijiang earthquake shock when a rock from the mountain, the fall middle of the river, resulting in today see the tiger jumped. However, because of huge stones, but also landed middle of the river, the river flow is not to wear Guo, water so loud that a few steps away from what heard not seen. usually quiet and calm like a little sister of the Jinsha River at this time completely changed the appearance of coarse ore passionate show a broad power, standing at the shore, feeling to the person's tiny and nature's great. rafting Tiger Leaping Gorge will deeply appreciate the courage and the great heroes and would like to go to the expense of drifting in the Yangtze River Warriors flowers to express our respect, but do not know where, very sorry. There is a saying the drain waves淘尽, gallant heroes of bygone ages ... ... the excitement, and small-Mo group photo taken with the MM.
Tiger jumped on the play, the time is 3.30 or so, climb up the Mid-Levels Highway to spend 1.00 hours, very tired, and walk back along the road network, about 10 km to the mountain through the path, hailed the road, and vehicle owners to bargain with a person 2.00 Round the price of Gao Ding took us to the junction, about 10 km. got out and began a memorable two-day walk across the Tiger Leaping Gorge. walk the line has three Tiger Leaping Gorge. a walk along the riverside road, although the landscape It can be seen, but a lower degree of difficulty is said to often take the line of small Japanese, because it is not dangerous, a good one. One is the high way, he is along the Tiger Leaping Gorge in the Mid-Levels on an original path, Europeans and Americans especially like go to the Tao, the general load of 30 pounds to go more appropriate, they may be lightly armed uphill climb, but I think it is still loading more interesting, there are extra fun. we have to go this route. there is a very difficult way to go is said to need to guide, but walk the line the people are extremely abnormal Laolv, and must load more than 40 kilograms. purely for the purpose of self-flagellation ------- I thought they were to exercise their own will for the purpose. When you are overcoming difficult to overcome the kind of mood when the self is a kind of language can not describe the joy, which is like walking a number of reasons for foot lovers bar .--------- For the average person walking the difficulty of sufficiently high way . is a good choice. but we really arduous journey has just begun. lateness of the hour, decided to adopt the Naxi Ya Ge lodging option. sun slowly sets and climb mountains, rest, drink ... ... a person (who is obviously on foot, backpack) up from behind and ask for directions, holding bar in Lijiang free access to the hand-drawn map, pointing to Naxi Ya Ge ask how to get it! will not be Chinese, Asian ethnicity, English is not, gesture for a long time understand what he was to join An Men team. ask where do you come from? understand replied: japan, collapsed ,----- I do not want to experience the best little Japanese, I and small in Japan as a military Xuehaishenchou ------- I Grandpa in Shanghai and Japan fought, who left wounds and go with him a battalion of brothers (when he was a battalion commander in Chengdu ---- ------ Battle of the national army uprising), only six the next battlefield ------ However, taking into account the previous generation of resentment has nothing to do with the next generation, we accepted him, and asked to know his name is called the short ** Nagai Nagai. hiking, road signs are everywhere, not get lost, But are all written in English, it seems a lot of foreigners walking the line. about 2.30 hours, he saw a few Chinese characters: "Red Flag waving is the Naxi Ya Corner" turned the ridge, the red flag fluttering on a bamboo pole shrouded in the sunset especially under the small village where a prominent, red in the past, pushing Xu Yan of the courtyard, you see the boss honest faces. flew at table, beef jerky in your mouth and ate a great deal, the boss wife mood and hot tea on the side , let us feel at home far away wandering the warmth (tea is free of charge). We have decided to rest, eat a Kazakhstan. while eating, side and Wang Yuan-brother (the bosses) bragging. King Brother is a pure Naxi people, has a Naxi tribe's honest, kind-hearted. Although the living conditions of Naxi Ya-ko can not be compared with the inn in Lijiang, but his sense of serving the people, the absolute best in the business of sweeping the land of China today, there is still such a sense of serving the people with Pure Land of Ultimate Bliss is really mind-boggling. ----- In fact, if we can not have the money to live in the Naxi Ya House Inn ---- The emergence of the first only to go through to provide a resting place for passers-by. This is also the reason foreigners like the Tiger Leaping Gorge, and me too, with the screen name comes more and more people inside the Inn Valley and the more open the more. Conditions are improved. Getting dark, we decided to start our dinner, and the boss to discuss the following, MM o'clock seven dishes, and then is a short wait, a moment, sumptuous dinner appeared in front of us. Gorge ... ... eating a rest for a while, Wang big brother to us burning good water, and told us to bath, of course, ladies first, and then us, a hot water bath Xijin the fatigue will be a warm stream in their hearts, Wang brother had been for us to boil water, no rest, bathing spent 1.5 hours. As night fell, a moon climb the high peaks of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the soft moonlight selfless sprinkle a steep cliff in the Tiger Leaping Gorge, the mountains, temperatures drop quickly, cold pressing, the name of whole body trembled, careful proprietress of carbon fire had burned, and we Wai carbon in the warm fire next to the big brother to listen to King speak that thing of the past. Naxi is not here, the original inhabitants of their ancestors to escape from war and kill enemies of the movement came from the mainland came to this interpersonal Han letter of the mountains and live a free life unaffected. They love life and strive for liberty. Perhaps they are remnants of ancient Shu State, in order to escape the kill Qin, perhaps descendants of the party's key people in order to avoid the iron heels of the Mongolian ... ... We do not know, the original customs and habits unconsciously changed, but the hospitable, honest kind-hearted but continued to this day the United States and Germany. I will also have the opportunity to go, just do not know whether the wave of commercial intrusion into our hearts in heaven? Heard that the state should invest in Tiger Leaping Gorge line, I am very worried that the power of commercialization throughout the world today, people of wealth but also by many to lose many of the most precious things. Tiger Leaping Gorge is a kind of primitive beauty of the United States, it is a time when the conquest of nature, a sense of achievement and the kind of person to person through thick and thin, good faith feeling. No money, there is no conflict of interest. Have been to many places of interest, scenic, though good, the personnel to Africa, to see those hundreds of one night's hotel, repair the cable car on the cliff, climbing elevator, a team of a team, coming and going of the tour group, voices, mental a kind of indescribable feeling. The night was deep, due to the time for tomorrow's road ---- 28 ---- Shui is said to be the most difficult way to go and decided to rest. Climbed the bed, exhausted I soon entered a dream ... ...
Attached to No. 16 cost: Accommodation (15) 22.5 * 4 = 90.00 ¥ ¥
Breakfast 9.00 ¥
Chartered (leased) Lijiang --- --- Bridge Shigu ¥ 140.00
¥ 35.00 lunch
Car fare evasion into the Tiger Leaping Gorge ¥ 60.00
Back mountain car * 4 = 2.00 ¥ 8.00 ¥
342.00 ¥ / 4 = 85.50 ¥
Note: (Naxi Ya House on the 17th morning, along with room and board expenses paid)
4.17 7 am wake up, wake up little Mo and long-wells, awakens sleeping next to the MM, washing down the stairs to the book after breakfast, when Japan is also a small downstairs, ask him Chisha? Do not understand, did not understand, depressed! Called in the end the boss brought an egg, a handful of rice, to make copy of the action, Nagai finally realized that, and even said ok! Ok! Eating breakfast, it is already 8:00 before, and Wang brother and wife took a photograph a feeling of Yiyi The mood left the Naxi Ya dismay Court, I am sorry, forgot to checkout, accommodation, meals plus a total of ¥ 92.00.
Along the winding mountain climbing, is not far in front of 28 to Shui, looking round, Naxi Ya Club, under the red flag fluttering in the sun, do not, and the beautiful Naxi Ya Pavilion, Farewell, King Brother, I have the opportunity to come back? ... ...
28 Shui can imagine is that turning on the Peak 28. To breath up is not possible, stop-take a rest at last to the top of the hill, standing at 28 Shui Office, to see written on the cliff on the "you win", not far from sudden stood majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain once printed on the eyes, and the foot of the mountain like a snake light green of the Jinsha River. The face of such beauty, I suddenly stunned. All the fatigue also disappeared in an instant without a trace. Moment, with regard to travel insights are also fully understand them - meaning of travel, in fact, a kind of suffering experienced after going through hardships to see the kind of beauty when you feel the soul that comes from feeling and from the heart sentiment.
28 Shui climbed them took us two hours or so, in the 28 Shui break for a while, crazy pressing the shutter, they began to move toward Halfway along the way to view the scenery along the way, Yulong Snow Mountain, and the Jinsha River is also accompanied by down around the United States pole. Unknowingly already 13 o'clock, the legendary traveler's paradise Halfway Inn is up.
Now do not eat lunch, tired and hungry, our burst into the courtyard. Best in the world the balcony, first-come, several hongkonglists already enjoy sumptuous lunch finished, ready to go. And their greeting and had arranged to meet in the Gorge, we have wait at the table, refreshments, free of charge, possession of enough of the ... ...哈哈Shuangsi. Quickly opened square table, long bench, one cup of hot tea for the last, and then get on a roll of bamboo, I almost thought it was the Qin and Han antiquities, there is a surprise to see the top foreign language know that this is the menu, in English and Chinese bamboo engraving the menu, but also great originality. I did not think of this backwater place not only drink beer, has the gall to eat Western food, but did not think there's pretty affordable price, and a night pass shop 10 yuan, a pile tip Egg Fried Rice only 5 yuan (where the remote deep in the mountains, the vast majority of raw materials had to come from the mountains external basket carried on the back, not strange to open a high price). Jiuyang halfway of the proprietress cooking, its gold soil chicken dish is absolutely more human Acura naturally can not miss (strongly recommended not to eat). ¥ 15 pound chicken, point to kill one, 3.8 pounds, but also a point of 7 ~ 8 dishes, we celebrated the best in the world began to sit in the balcony on the toilet ... the sun is said best in the world toilet picturesque ... turned out well-deserved reputation, one side is the Yulong Snow Mountain, one side is the Haba Snow Mountain, when the boss meal An Men devoured food, sitting in the balcony while it is called a best in the world to eat while listening to the sound of the Jinsha River side of the river rolling sun, this When the moment, beauty, food, wine, there is a group of friends through thick and thin, life is in such that, who needs!
Halfway Inn side of the courtyard there are "Donkey wall" Tingyou characteristics: the bar is probably in May, a few travelers from the big a departure, across the Jinsha River, under the tiger jumped across the big ditch, the tiger jumped , went to this hotel, Feng boss brought them from the Half Way starting on the Haba Snow Mountain, the road, bad weather, at night accommodation in the Yi shepherds abandoned stone house, hardly anything to eat, also it began to snow at midnight the following day, All four cold and hungry, finally stepping on the snow before returning to hotel. Some people wrote a classic travels, in order to commemorate the journey of Friends of the expedition, von bosses engage in such a text was engraved on all routes and donkey donkey wall and follow-up activities, namely, re-travelers along this route, the first day of the big a walking High Path to Half Way, Haba Snow Mountain on the following day to complete can the donkey's name was engraved on the wall of a bamboo and get souvenirs - donkey palm. Feng boss hopes to this event bigger and to introduce more people to this tourist routes, but unfortunately I'll wait for equipment, not enough, otherwise they can reach Haba has.
After dinner is 3:00, the starting (a total of 83.00 ¥ lunch), we decided to go to the Gap Inn accommodation, but heard that the Gap is expanding, and we do not know, want to come, or take a look at that that time in determining, no You can also live in Teacher Chang Inn ----- did not expect this decision to change the future of our journey ----- After more than two hours of hard walking, along the way met a lot of head-Wani illustrious past, and finally to to the Gap Inn is already 5:30 pm Sure enough, the Gap is being expanded to a site and decided to live Teacher Chang Inn, Teacher Chang Inn Inn not far from the Gap, also 10 minutes walking distance (road). Had decided to go in the tiger jumped, but not enough time, even if the go 40 minutes to 1 hour, very bad way to go, decided to go tomorrow. Fancy tiger jumped the best time is around 5 pm, when the last rays of the setting sun to sow into the valleys, and beautiful exception! Unfortunately, An Men out of time. Su Chang teacher's house. The door and found a very lively, too many boys and plmms. So it was introduced to each other: Yunnan trio: small white, octopus, crabs and sister; I and I of the two MM, little Mo, long shaft; Guangzhou four groups: small Ling, Xiao Pan,小朱, as well as a MM forget the name (Hei hei), a hongkong sister --- posture, young people are always together with a common language, along with chat, Guangzhou, four groups to return to Lijiang, their Let out of the room, An Men 3 Takeo stay in Yunnan, three-chat, to know Yunnan Mountaineering Association, who posted 14 in the Cangshan on Cangshan accommodation, due to its high altitude, as well as the snow has resulted in two Yunnan Takeo cold headaches, lucky The crabs are taking good care of her sister's extremely impressed, I strongly recommend to the mountains themselves up to a foot of snow, can see the footprints of wild animals ----- bears, leopards, deer ... ... and so on. Is extremely stimulating. At that time, I straight-line distance from their less than 1 km, ha ha, speculation! Yunnan, a friend invited me to join them for dinner, I politely refuse, saying: I still eat together, etc. An Men's team, there must be team 3! ---- In fact, they are afraid that I Chongseqingyou mm ---- Haha, Yunnan has a long-haired sister, fluttering, Hei hei ... ... PL, three very admirable, the mountaineering team spirit is extremely important, as I as a friend,哈哈--- boast! Know that they come to Haba Snow Mountain climbing, and bring all equipment, unfortunately not enough time, (the mountain in front of the origin of the story has already been mentioned.) Zaiqu had to the next, warm and inviting them to come to Sichuan to play, to crawl in Sichuan Xuebaoding, Siguniangshan major peaks, ha ha, I agree, it seems the next, with companions, and hey, there PLMM ... ... points in the mountains some of the special meals, delicious .... In the Mix on the wall of the dish were evaluation of Sure enough, by an asterisk above the highest point it wants to, absolutely wrong.
After dinner, a bath in batches, MM continue Nagai exchanges, teaching little Japanese Chinese, and everyone I chat with the teacher when Chang came back chatting with you drink, maybe I was the only teacher inside the bar --- --- a common language between teachers, although Zhang teacher primary school, I taught at the university, but does not impede communication between us, but also the mouth from the Teacher Chang of knowledge in the tiger jumped the road under the circumstances --- ---- 80's, one of Hong Kong people in the United States National Geographic magazine to see pictures of Tiger Leaping Gorge, came to Tiger Leaping Gorge, hoping to see for themselves, but when he went to the tiger jump, there was only , after seeing the pictures of the canyon found not on the way people asked, finally finding Zhang teacher, aware of the road (this road is 50 years old general in order to develop a hydropower Tiger Leaping Gorge, from an exploration of the use of the nation paths, geological exploration, for which general regardless of age, seven visits to Tiger Leaping Gorge, exploration, and later for various reasons, the dam plan abandoned, the generals after the death of his ashes with his capacity as one of the Jinsha River, after which Trail gradually abandoned) can continue, and Zhang Hong Kong people and the teacher brought down a few simple tools for road and spent a day back and forth (An Men now can be as long as two hours back and forth), finally saw in National Geographic Magazine Virtual photo. Hong Kong people are gripped with horror and returned for Chang teacher suggested that repair of the road, and tell the teacher that there would be many others like him who would come to Tiger Leaping Gorge. Later, Psychology alone take up road thing, until now, many people walk, others see a profit, but also added to the road of the army. This is the reason to go thin strip of sky fees, the original one 10 ¥ that now, because people walk more, the cost of road Teacher Chang has been a more balanced approach (open hotels), so the cost has been reduced to 5 ¥ one person, if the accommodation Teacher Chang Inn , toll free (save 5 ¥). Internet have friends that the charges for suspicion of arbitrary charges, in fact, I think much better than the fees charged into the mountains, at least for Chang teacher who received the money for roads, Anmen everyone can enjoy. When the rainy season to be very careful during the rainy season every year road is often washed off, landslides, very dangerous, so road need to maintain, this is also the reason for each passer-by charges, but the rainy season the most spectacular Tiger Leaping Gorge, hoping the next opportunity go and see. Friends from all different places together to play cards (Gong Zhu) chat is a very pleasant thing, we come from around the country ------ Beijing, Shenzhen, Chongqing, Chengdu, Guangzhou, Kunming, Hong Kong, Hangzhou, as well as Japan Osaka, can get together this is a fate. I may never forget. The night was deep, taking into account tomorrow's arduous journey, we all return to a rest house, I live crabs sister's next door to her surprise, harassment, I still peeping I of the thigh, trying to my bedside to chat with me ... ... very sexual, right? Hei hei ... ... crazy night! ... ...
Attached: 17 Fees 16 Naxi Ya Ge lodging, meals ¥ 92.00
halfway lunch ¥ 83.00
175.00 ¥ / 4 = 44.00 ¥
18, 7.00 get up, and the boss to discuss breakfast, porridge steamed bread, and contact the wizard (the Tiger Leaping Gorge Road, go bad, the best please guide to safe and secure away from home is always the first one). After dinner is 8:00, the wizard has come to pay for rice places (17) Total 92.00 ¥, from the Teacher Chang Inn in Tiger Leaping Gorge, down to the bottom took about an hour, and finally to the inside of the Tiger Leaping Gorge I Dreamed . Here, the 5-kilometer portion of the river fell 100 meters, the river between the roundabout in the reefs, the waves-tao rolled, the formation of mist in the air. Those rocks everywhere in the river, he served as the water impulse, he served as fog. This landscape also made the tiger jumped live up there, "sky full of stars," the name, but the reef is much more surprising than the stars seem to insurance. However, if looking down from the sky, eyes glide on both sides of cliffs, into deep gorges in the beheld it, it really would be "stars."至身此处,两岸悬崖林立,听见中虎跳那轰隆隆的巨响,我们的心情益发兴奋、激动。
我们无法不激动,因为这是举世闻名的虎跳峡中最最险要的之处-中虎跳,是著名的“鬼门关”。 1986年中国长江漂流队队员孙志岭和四川记者万明都在以身殉职,更将悲壮赋予了中虎跳。
在往下走不久,攀过江边的几块巨石,跳上江心的望峡台, 哇—顿时,只剩下四个张大嘴巴的木头人,此时的心情无比激动,兴奋无法言表。
只见,奔腾的金沙江带着雷霆万钧的力量,带着远古雪山凛凛的寒风,带着玉龙、哈巴两大雪山压迫下的怒吼声,向我们迎面扑来,在峡谷中激起冲天的巨浪,在望峡台边卷起千堆雪。
江水撼动着脚下的岩石和我们的身躯,甚至周围的空气,扑面而来的新鲜的水雾很快打湿我们的头发和脸庞,水声的巨响使我们不能听到彼此的惊讶的呼叫。总之,如此近距离的金沙江冲击着我们所有的感觉。忠告游客:最好坐下来感受,此时容易头晕目眩,不小心栽下金沙江就只有一个答案:see god!
当然,我们合上惊讶的嘴巴后也得开始拍照,此时是上午9点20分,倘若是中午来到,太阳直射峡谷,我们可以看到在奔腾的江面上有三道无比艳丽的彩虹。倘若到了七八月份的雨季,中虎跳的巨浪的峰谷达到22米,景观更为惊心动魄和骇人。我们留下了一声声的遗憾。
躺在被流水冲刷过的巨石上望着兰色的天空以及半山上沿着峭壁开凿的便道,东面的峡谷下面江水因落差翻着白浪,峡谷上面光照的峭壁、蓝天白云,景色美不胜收,令人惊叹。徒步虎跳峡不来中虎跳,真是天大的遗憾,然而后面去的中虎跳满天星(日落时分最佳)才是虎跳峡的景色极胜处。停留30分钟后,张老师的弟弟(向导)带领我们向东去中虎跳满天星。这段路基本上在滩涂上,巨石林立,一块接着一块,有的巨石超过2米高,从这样的巨石上爬上爬下,若不是身手矫健,几乎不可能,路十分难走。在巨石前,向导处处赶在前面,爬上巨石,在上面拉我们;爬下巨石,在下面接我们;我们几个喜欢摄影的人几乎在与太阳赛跑,这里峡口的江面更窄,落差更大,水流更急,湍急的江水打在石头,溅起巨大的水花,。 Unfortunately.我们坐在瀑布前巨大的岩石上,看着急流溅起的巨大的水花,听着震耳欲聋的水流轰鸣声,感受着时时迎面扑来的、带有凉意的水汽,拍着照片,感受着虎跳峡的极胜景色。张老师曾说过:虎跳峡是不能用静态的照片来表现的,它是一种动态视觉的壮美,你需要用耳来倾听,用眼睛来做摄像机,用头脑来做胶片,用心灵来感受!啊,大自然多么美妙,真是鬼斧神工,创造了这样举世绝伦的景观!真是不到满天星,妄来虎跳峡呀。此后,休息一会,我们继续向一线天出发。所谓“一线天”,就是“望天一条线,看地一条沟”,至身此处,两岸悬崖林立,这里已经可以听见中虎跳那轰隆隆的巨响,我们的心情益发兴奋、激动。
这段路恰好穿行在峡谷腹地,两侧雪山都是最高的主峰段,在这里往两头望峡口,看到随着江流弯弯曲曲,高峰深谷把蓝天切成一线,你会有一种走至天边的感觉。雨季该路十分危险,常常因塌方而路断。特别是一线天,特别危险,虽然给我的感觉一般(去过华山的长空栈道的人是不会被吓住的),但对于哪些一般的旅游朋友,该路还是很险的,走的时候要特别小心,最好请向导,毕竟安全第一。我们背着30斤重的包,向导怕我们出事,最危险的那段路向导帮我们背包,后来不好意思把包要了过来,过了一线天,爬上公路,到了核桃园,和向导合影告别,约好下次登哈巴雪山找他当向导,一天50¥,同时给他向导费:一人10¥。告别,沿公路去新渡口。从公路下到新渡口的路很危险,由于已经徒步两天以上,大家都很疲惫,所以特别小心,可是我还是划倒,不过都是在安全地带,想想如果是在某些路段,哎…想都不要想……花了一个多小时下到新渡口,喊渡船过来接我们,一人12.00¥,不讲价,雨季该渡口无法渡过。由于丽江地震时塌方的原因,这里成了高峡出平湖,江水平缓,和蔼的象一个小姑娘,度过渡口,渡口的人为我们从大具叫车来接我们,新渡口离大具还有10公里左右的公路,车费一人10元,从渡口上到公路还有一段路,爬800米左右,渡口的人说我们可能要1个小时就可以爬上去,我们爬了接近2个小时,途中水喝完了----估计路途不太远,为了减轻负重,早上我把饮水减半------恶报,哈哈,下回不会干这种哈事了,只好节约喝,所以爬的特慢。好不容易爬上公路,等大具的车来接我们。先买瓶水喝,狂饮,然后吃饭,每人一碗面(将就)条件有限,这时已是3.00,大具到丽江的最后一班车(下午1.00发车)已开,我们决定晚上宿大具。
坐车20分钟到大具,看来没有回丽江的车,我们死了心,住客栈,洗澡,吃饭,欣赏大具风光。
夜,俺与小莫商量明天的计划,决定明天去玉龙雪山玩,骑马上山,下午回丽江。定完计划,疲惫的我最早进入梦乡……
附:18号费用饭宿(张老师客栈) 92.00¥
过路费(新收费点,两个,一人2¥) 2*4*2=16.00¥
导游费10.00*4=40.00¥
渡船费12.00*4=48.00¥
买水3.50*4=14.00¥
中饭(面) 4.00*4=16.00¥
车费10.00*4=40.00¥
266.00/4=66.50¥
19号早上一早俺最先起床,把大家叫醒,收拾好行李,吃完早饭(宿饭车费共140.00¥),坐车去玉龙雪山牦牛坪。车行n个小时到牦牛坪,玉龙雪山有三个索道,一个是到扇子斗(玉龙雪山主峰),一到牦牛坪,一到云杉坪。扇子斗海拔最高,达5000米左右,一般旅游团带队去扇子斗或云杉坪,自助旅游去牦牛坪。扇子斗海拔高,直接到冰川,近年来由于山上活动的旅游者太多,冰川已经融化,听说国家为保护玉龙雪山决定拆除该索道-----听到这个消息很欣慰----索道费用120.00¥,春节期间听说出事,该索道关闭。牦牛坪可以看玉龙雪山主峰扇子斗,可坐缆车40几块钱,或骑马上山(63.00¥),我认为还是骑马有意思点,我们决定骑马上山,每人雇了一匹马(到管理处买票),管理处对马管理很严,禁止私人雇马,价格规定死了,没发讲价。也可以徒步上山。上山花了一个小时左右,由于才下过雪,山上很漂亮,疯狂的按动快门,两个妹妹把各种衣服穿来穿去,忙坏了我这个可怜的小乞丐,哎……回头继续往上爬,却幸运的的与广州四人组不期而遇,世界真小,哈哈……小玲告诉俺他们要去泸沽湖,问我们去不去?如果要去的话邀请俺们一起去,哈哈,大喜,他们四人加上我们四人一共就是8人,可以包车了,于是很愉快的同意,告诉小莫,小莫也很同意,约好晚上回丽江后在详细的谈,互留电话以便联系,丽江有很多徒步旅游者,很容易就找到同路者,只要在各个客栈的留言板上去看看或留言,就可以约到同路人。接下来的时间俺和广州妹妹一起爬山,同时又给小莫和妹妹们照相,在高山上看到玉龙雪山很美,可惜俺技术有限,不能完全表达,交谈中广州妹妹流露出喜欢摄影的爱好,并且看着俺的相机说我比较专业!哈哈……可实际上俺可是一只菜鸟……在雪山上闲逛了将近2个小时,决定回去,俺爬过雪山,所以雪对俺来说……可是来自广州的朋友可就不一样了,也许是第一次看到雪山吧?我们先下山,约好晚上谈去泸沽湖的事。我们就下山了,等了一会,上车回丽江(车费10.00¥人)。回到丽江已是下午5.30左右,下车直奔容坡客栈,毕竟45.00¥一个标间让我们无法拒绝。还是住走之前住的屋,放下包,就出门去找晚饭,走到大石桥附近找饭馆的时候却意外的与骑车游玩的云南三人组(螃蟹,带鱼,小白)邂逅。皆大喜,螃蟹告诉我他们在丽江碰到了所有的住在张老师客栈的朋友们,惟独没有我们,没有想到最后还是见到了。并且问我们明天的行程,当我们告诉他们去泸沽湖时,他们大惊-----喜,同去?于是一同去,得知他们住东巴嚎斯,广州朋友住木瓜,我都知道地点,互留电话,约好晚上9.00钟谈明天一起包车去泸沽湖。吃饭后(60.00¥),回客栈洗澡。 9点我正洗澡的时候,小玲打来电话,约我们去木瓜客栈,我和小莫商量,小莫先去,我随后就到,洗完,发现MM们还在逛街没有回来,我带上相机去木瓜客栈,同时给小白电话,约好在木瓜客栈门口等他们,不一会儿,到木瓜,不到5分钟,见到小白纯洁无邪的笑脸和腼点的带鱼兄,一同进木瓜客栈,看到久违的小玲和俺们小莫。再次相逢的我们十分高兴,互相问候后都询问从张老师客栈分手后的经历,去泸沽湖好象不是我们最关心的话题,包车的事很快就决定了,小玲他们已经联系了人,我们建议先看看,不过太贵的话,用我和小莫的信息,我们出发前准备了许多包车的信息,以及电话(从网上收集的)。不一会,人来,和我们谈租车的事,要两天700¥,我们一听大喜,很划算,不过我和小莫厚着脸皮继续砍价,最后以650.00¥两天,车(金杯)一直跟我们走。问姓名,居然是网上大名鼎鼎的雪山飞狐(网名,丽江自助旅行车队俱乐部丽江“四川浪人”老乡会的沈三,手机:13170771480,电话:0888-5186644,地址:丽江古城新华街双石段70号(木瓜客栈)。)我们就有他的电话,哈哈,真是踏破铁蹄无觅处,得来全部费工夫。从丽江到泸沽湖300公里左右,往返路费(坐公车)要100元左右,俺们包车平均才650.00/11=59.00¥,我和小莫晚上回屋睡觉时谈到这个问题笑歪了嘴……哈哈。便宜,果然便宜! ! !约好明天早上7点出发,大家分手回去准备,我和小莫回客栈,等到MM回来,告诉明天的具体安排,出门泡吧去了,小莫请客,坐在小店外的木椅上,听着流水潺潺,眼前时熙熙攘攘的人群和七彩的古城(晚上的丽江非常美丽),喝着美酒,谈古论今,难怪有那么多的人喜欢丽江,晚上一点钟左右,离开回客栈,躺在床上,回想起这几天的经历,难以入眠。
走了一趟虎跳峡,对它的感受变得实在起来.在中虎跳的江边,我感觉到了最强烈的震憾,于是会去想人与自然之间种种微妙的关系,会去试着用另一种眼光去看这个原本以为看懂的世界.
曾经读过一篇文章,主要讲对山的敬仰是以对困难克服为代价的。我爬过的名山不多,也就是峨眉山,华山,加上穿越虎跳峡爬的哈巴山路,一级一级的爬时,仿佛感受到了山的心跳,这心跳传到腿上,在由腿波及到全身,爬山,当然很累,远没有坐缆车那样轻松,潇洒,但是只有与山这种对体的触摸中,才真正感觉到山的伟大,才体悟到什么是真正的男子汉。爬上山顶的感觉是最为美妙的。爬山穿越虎跳峡前感觉到一种畏惧,大山对我们来说是那样的神奇,高大。当我一步一步丈量过虎跳峡而站在山巅时,虎跳峡对我而言已不在陌生,不在畏惧。我熟悉了虎跳峡,亲和了哈巴,玉龙以及金沙江,我觉得我就是虎跳峡,虎跳峡就是我,我把我的生命中的一部分与虎跳峡容为一体,这是一种难以表达的愉快。我景仰山,不只他的高大坚强,更再他的博大雄浑,我热爱水,不只她的温柔平静,更在于她的汹涌澎湃。
山与水,阴与阳,大自然是那样千变万化,又是那样的和谐与统一。有人说男人是山,女人是水……也许是吧。
《周易》云:“立天之道曰阴阳,立地之道曰柔刚。”阴与阳者,日月也;柔与刚者,山水也……地,阴,月,柔,水,女;天,阳,日,刚,山,男……
呼….呼….呼………
我走过,我看过,我征服过附:19号费用饭,宿,车费140.00¥
骑马63.00¥*4=252.00¥
车票(回丽江) 10.00¥*4= 40.00¥
午餐21.00¥
晚餐60.00¥
513.00¥/4=128.00¥
To be continued ... ...
20号早上一早起床,出门买来包子作为早餐,回来后叫醒MM和小莫,吃完早餐去大水车等车,不一会儿,云南朋友和广州朋友聚到一起,与司机见面,上车出发。很久以前就知道在云南有一个地方,它的名字叫泸沽湖。在种种的传说里面,那是一个美丽和神秘的地方----东方古老神秘的“女儿国”,想到俺现在还是单身,就忍不住嘿嘿……后来发现俺们车上的男士都是…。世界各国民间传说中的女儿国,存在至今的,恐怕只有摩梭人这一族了。滇西北高原川滇交界处的云南宁蒗彝族自治县境内有一片美丽的泸沽湖,摩梭人世代生活在泸沽湖畔,他们至今仍保留着“男不婚、女不嫁、结合自愿、离散自由”的母系氏族婚姻制度。从网上得知泸沽湖简介:
泸沽湖,位于云南省宁蒗县永宁乡与四川省盐源县左所乡之间,距宁蒗县城76公里。当地摩梭人称为谢纳米,意为母海,因湖的形状如曲颈葫芦,故名泸沽湖。
泸沽湖是由断层陷落而形成的高原湖泊,水面海拔为5685米,是云南海拔最高的湖泊,湖水平均深度40余米,最深处达73.2米,仅次于抚仙湖,位盾全省第二位。整个湖泊状如马蹄,南北长而东西窄。 Here is located in remote, inconvenient transportation, natural environment, destruction of small and clean water.湖东,有条山梁婉蜒而下,下插湖心,似条苍龙俯卧湖中汲饮甘泉,形成泸沽湖上一个美丽的半岛,它几乎将广阔的湖面一分为二,半岛尖端与对岸相距仅2公里,成为湖面最狭窄的地方。
沪沽湖畔村落棋布,当地居民以摩梭人(纳西族支系)为主。摩梭人民居建筑为方木垛成的井千式木楞子房,以木板当瓦,每块长约0.8米,宽0.2~0.4米不等。内部以火塘为全家的中心,旁有老人及未成年孩子住的地方;另一幢二层楼房为客房,上为青壮年妇女与她们的阿注(朋友)的居室。由于历史的原因,在摩梭人中还保留着具有早期对偶婚特点的阿注婚姻形态,保留着母系氏族公社时期的一些特点,这种婚姻,在时间上,可长达数十年,也可短到一二天;在数量上,可与一二人结为阿注,也可以与更多的人偶居。结合自愿,解除容易,双方不来往即算解除阿注关系。与此相适应,家庭是由血缘为纽带的母系亲属组成,家中财产均由母系血统的成员继承,子女均留母家,随母姓。男子的身份是舅父或舅祖父。妇女在家庭生活中和生产管理上是主持人,享有崇高的地位。
下午1点左右,汽车结束了一路风尘抵达终点。途中买了进入泸沽湖的门票(38.00进山费+3.00保险=41.00¥)。这时我借的学生证发挥了作用,半票:20.50¥。翻过山口,美丽的泸沽湖刹那般的出现在我们的面前,那种感觉只有在三亚看海的时候才有(众里寻她千百度,默然回首,那人却在灯火阑珊处),震撼!
我们站在半山上的小亭,欣赏着这人间的绝酿,此时正午,阳光强烈,把这地处二千七百米高的泸沽湖映照出五种不同的色彩:沿湖一带是黄色,与岸边金黄色沙滩为一色;渐远为浅黄并略有淡绿,绿;湖中央大部分水域为深蓝色,纵眼望去可以遥看到水鸟禽类高低飞翔;天际边接近湖对岸前的湖色则为薄薄的一层深蓝。这多彩纷呈的色彩互不干扰;加上泛起的雪白浪花,由近而远密密麻麻,完全就是大自然调制成的一杯赏心悦目的鸡尾酒。白云朵朵,缓缓从容地飘过这明快的湖水,飘过村庄,飘向远方。微风拂过,松涛阵阵……这蓝天白云,神山圣水,不曾受过一些污染,仿佛就连世间罪孽最深的灵魂来到这里也会得到忏悔和洗濯。
回到车上,我们直奔落水村。大多数旅游团会选择住落水村,可是我们觉得落水村的商业化太浓,坚持按我和小莫的计划去里格半岛的扎西家住。落水村住可以洗澡,其他地方无法,不过随着商业化浪潮的冲击,这个问题很快会得到解决的。洛水村现在已经被开发成一个商业味十足的地方。你要是住在这里,我可以肯定你不会看到泸沽湖的好处,也许你呆了一个晚上,就想离开。但是你乘坐的车的司机一般都会让你住这里的某家客栈,因为他们有的可以拿回扣,有的是自己家里开的客栈。
我们在落水村的湖边的码头上欣赏着湖光山色,红嘴欧随风起伏,象风筝一样停在空中不动。这时有人提议是不是先吃饭,这时才觉得腹中空空。坐车直奔里格半岛的里格村。里格村是一个处在开发边缘的,有22户,130余人的小村。比起洛水而言,要少一些商业气息,也比较多一些古朴和真实。临水而居,从这里观赏到的风景是其他村子无法比拟的。在这里,可以住到老乡家里的客栈,很便宜的,10-15元一天。如果是在渔歌唱晚的傍晚时分,以里格半岛为中景,岛前的湖水为近景,岛后的水、山、天为远景拍些照片,你会发现泸沽湖的美丽将从此定格。大约有10公里左右,我们的车一直开到离扎西家200米的地方停下来。扎西的家就位于里格半岛上。扎西------个村里最英俊、最能干、也最有见识的男人,有许多的故事。比如他是村里第一个男婚女嫁的男人。而这,是他和他的爱人在经历了8年的走婚以后作出的决定。 They left each other's families, from scratch, established a truly belongs to a small house.不仅如此,他除了抚养自己的两个小孩之外,还担负起抚养已故姐姐的两个小孩。比如,他8岁出家,18岁还俗……比如他没有上过一天学,却走南闯北,结交了一大批国内外的朋友,他的谈吐、他的见识、他的思想可以篦美一个专家、一个学者。又比如摩梭人是没有在家中专设一个厕所和洗澡间的习惯的,他们的果园就是他们的厕所,这一点是最让游客头痛的。而扎西家,同时也是扎西客栈却拥有也许是泸沽湖畔摩梭人家有史以来的第一个厕所哦!对了,扎西客栈的床上没有虱子啊跳蚤啊之类的东东。别家的我就不敢保证了:)他的电话是0888-5881055。你到洛水以后,如果司机不愿送你去里格村的话,你可以打这个电话让扎西骑马来接你。当然最好的是你说服和你同一个车的游客一起进去,这样你好他们也好。如果你有好多的时间,那就想怎么玩就怎么玩。还可以让扎西带你去远一点的村子采风,你会发现他是最好的向导。不象有的老乡只是骗吃骗喝,胡弄你一番而已。如果你想对摩梭人多一点了解的话,一定要和扎西聊聊天!
我们下了车,进入扎西家,很不巧,扎西不在家,但是我们见到了他的夫人,我们先解决吃饭的问题,毕竟大家都很饿了,在扎西家住宿是每人10.00¥一天,早餐每人5.00¥,中餐和晚餐每人10.00¥。做饭的厨师是个四川人,很胖,屋里已经有人入住,我们互相打过招呼,很快,大家就熟悉了,有人已经在扎西家住了一个月了!太让我们吃惊了。不一会儿,饭好了,我们大家围上去,坐了两桌,上来了大约10个菜左右,只有两个肉菜,其他都是蔬菜,我们很快吃完饭,对于没有荤菜很不满意,觉得受骗了,不过大家觉得我们不是正常吃饭时间来的,可以原谅,还是看晚饭吧,如果没有改观,我们可要抗议了!院子里有条聪明的大狗,名叫大狼,后来我跟他勾兑好,给了我莫大的好处。夕阳西下,为了欣赏泸沽湖的夕阳,我们决定爬上岸边的小山,我和云南妹妹和广州妹妹小玲,还有小莫,和早就来到扎西家的东北人一起上山,路不好走,我帮东北人被三脚架,东北人自己背相机---德国制造,放相机的包比我的登山包还大,果然是专业人士,他在国外广告公司干活,为了拍广告片他已经在里格半岛呆了2周,还要呆,如果拍不到好片片,职业精神让人景仰。由于路不好走,广州妹妹拉在后面,路特滑,我怕出事,就留下来陪他,至于云南妹妹,登山队员,比我厉害的多了,自然不需要我照顾。我牵着广州妹妹的手漫漫网上爬,背上还背着承重的三脚架,自然慢多了,途中广州妹妹对我说你的手好热,嘿嘿,俺心理说你的手好软,呵呵……后来俺们终于上了山,夕阳西下,美丽异常,我把三脚架交给东北朋友,我们大家在一起谋杀胶片,风很大,白云朵朵,青山翠翠,苍穹蓝蓝,波光粼粼,春水共长天一色,落霞与红嘴鸥齐飞,旁边有漂亮妹妹作陪,与同生死共患难的兄弟指点江山,激昂文字,此情此景,难以用语言描述。
夕阳落山,我们开始了返程,广州妹妹的鞋滑,自然俺落在最后,下了山,我爬上里格半岛的高点,小白,带鱼,云南妹妹螃蟹还有和我一起的两个妹妹已经在上面吹牛了,大家一起合影留念,回到扎西家,大家准备吃晚饭。发现饭菜质量没有改变,大家都很不满意,后来厨师又给我们加了一个荤菜,但是大家还是很不高兴。后来晚上扎西回来,我们把我们的不平告诉扎西,和扎西交流的结果让我们明白,原来泸沽湖周围不产蔬菜,蔬菜要到40公里外的永宁去买,所以蔬菜特贵,用蔬菜来招待客人比用肉招待客人的规格更高,原来如此,后来我在泸沽湖周围的游览过程中还真没有看见菜地。晚上扎西为我们联系摩梭人,开篝火晚会,这可是走婚的机会哦!扎西和我们聊天,内容就是有关走婚的:“阿肖”是泸沽湖摩梭人中有情爱关系的男女双方的互称,彼此又称“肖波”“阿肖”婚姻的显著特点是:亲密的伴侣之间不存在男娶女嫁.男女双方仍然属于自己原有的家庭。婚姻形式是男方到女方家走访、住宿,次晨回到自己家中。因为是由男方的“走”而实现的婚姻,所以当地人又称这种关系为“走婚”。双方所生子女属于女方.采用母亲的姓氏.男方一般不承担抚养的责任。一个男子或一个女子的“阿肖”数目或有多有少.双方的“阿肖”关系不是固定不变的。
这种婚姻关系不受家长、亲族的干预、强迫,也不太注重对方的门第、身份和地位。选择上较为注重家族(母系血缘的男女之间禁止结交),看重对方的人品、才干、外貌等,在结交阿肖中女方的意愿受到最大限度的尊重,一般以女方的爱憎采取舍。 “阿肖”关系的建立较为自由,而且以感情为主要基础。在劳动中、在转山、转海等节日中、在日常生活和相互帮助的交往中或因对方勤劳诚实的品格产生了爱慕,或因对方俏丽的容貌.活泼的性格感染了自己......,便可向对方表示自己愿意结交“阿肖”的心愿。一般是男方向女方赠送诸如花头巾、衣服等礼物,如果对方乐意接受便可建立关系。如果女方有意,也可以大胆表露,例如主动从男方身上“抢”走一支钢笔.一块手巾;或者主动赠送男方自己绣的腰带.做的食物;如果对方乐意也可以建立关系。还有一种形式是,男女结交“阿肖”,必须先由男方请人履行一种当地人叫“佐佐嘎”的手续(意为互换东西)。当一个男子看中一个女子后,男子要请媒人带着给女方的衣裙、腰带、鞋子、茶叶等物品,到女方家给女子的母亲说明来意.母亲先要征求女儿的意见,如果同意,当即收下礼物,回赠一条女子亲手制作的麻布裤子和麻布腰带。经过“佐佐嘎”的男子首次走访女阿肖时必须邀上谋人或自己较亲密的男友一人,随身带着茶叶、糖食等。女方家中则盛情款待.同时将男子带来的茶、糖,分送给本村每一户人家或只分送给自己的亲族,表示自己的女儿已有了“阿肖”。入睡时,由女方母亲或姊妹将男子送到女子的卧室—花房。男阿肖走访女阿肖的最初阶段都要回避女子的舅舅、兄弟。随着时间的推移、便可逐渐随便起来“阿肖”关系的建立比较自由,解除这种关系也较方便。经过一段时间相处,双方如果觉得性格不合,感情淡漠或破裂,无论男方或女方,任何一方要结束这种关系都可以。一般情况是假若男方不愿再维持“阿肖”关系只要给女方说一声“我以后不来了”就行了;或者长期不走访女方,婚约自行解除。如果是女方不愿意.就可以当面告诉男方“你不要来了”,或者在男方走访,面带难色或拒绝进入花房,男方自觉没趣,就该理智地退出。在结交“阿肖”期间男女双方无论任何一方,如果知道对方另找“阿肖”时、通常要给其送一个用麻布包着火炭、辣椒、鸡毛的小包,以示警告或绝交。如果对方愿意改悔,就该向送包者赔礼道歉,这样就可以言归于好。
篝火晚会自然很热闹,妹妹们都是跳舞的行家,我们在旁边看,扎西告诉我们如果有妹妹和你跳舞,而且又抠了你的手心,那么恭喜你了,你被看上了,如果你愿意的话,晚上去她家…嘿嘿,每一个参加篝火晚会的人都会要求交10.00¥,摩梭人的社会是一种共产主义的社会,他们一个村庄收的钱按人头平分,不管你是这家,还是那家,所有的钱都会交给村长,由村长统一分配,试图砍价是徒劳的。篝火晚会很疯狂,俺们中的人有人乱抠别人的手心,嘿嘿,至于后果麻,后面会说,我坐在旁边吃烧烤,舞跳完后,是对歌,先是集体,然后是个人,我们派出带鱼,他得歌唱得好,一曲未尽,被摩梭姑娘包围,呵呵,艳福不浅啊,被她们捉住手脚,抛上天,哈哈,可怜的带鱼,吓得小白从座位跑道俺身边假装吃烧烤,一个半小时左右,晚会结束,摩梭妹妹们离开扎西家,我们这些一起出来的朋友们围着火炉,喝着啤酒,吃着烧烤,一起聊摩梭族的过去和未来。
沪沽湖养育的摩梭女儿,个个美丽健壮、勤劳善良、情深似海。她们在属于自己个人所有的花房里编织少女的梦,实现她的情真意挚的爱。她们没有古圣先贤留下的清规戒律,没有孤寂、失落的烦恼、忧伤。她们不奢求不属于自己的一切;她们不会做金钱、物质和权力的奴隶;她们按照自己的质朴本性,遵循自己心儿的指引在这块神奇的土地上无忧无虑地劳动、生活、恋爱;在母亲湖的山光水色中最大限度地展示自己纯朴的本色;在摩梭人最隆重、最热烈、最欢乐的格母女神的庆典—转山节中尽情地唱,尽情地跳,尽情地享受生活的甘甜。
篝火渐渐熄灭,月亮爬上了山冈,寒气逼人,我们一起进入酒吧,要了几瓶酒,和新交的朋友们一边聊天,一边喝酒,一边打牌,一边欣赏着这迷人的月光和湖光山色。夜已深,酒吧打佯,我们走出客栈,月光静静的洒在湖面上,磷光闪闪,微风拂拂,我们从扎西家拉来桨,带上手电,把我的冲锋衣给妹妹穿上(夜,很冷),爬上猪槽船,解开缆绳,荡起双桨,飘荡在夜幕下的泸沽湖中。我们在湖里唱歌,所有的有关月亮的歌都唱,小船儿轻轻,飘荡在水中,迎面吹来了凉爽(嘿嘿,冷得我发抖)的风……
夜深,我们划会客栈,回屋休息,被抠了手心的人来到抠手心的人窗前……(建议大家一定要小心,千万不要乱抠别人的手心哈)
The night of romance……
附:20号费用住宿(丽江) 90.00¥
早餐5.00¥
泸沽湖门票(38.00+3.00)*2= 82.00¥
包车费60.00*4= 240.00¥
晚会10.00*4= 40.00¥
泸沽湖(住宿,吃饭) 40.00*4= 160.00¥
617.00/4=154.00¥
21号早上6.30起床,准备去看日出,一出门,就发现可爱的小狼趴在我的门前为我站岗,背上相机去看日出,这时小狼陪我,在前面给我带路,这只可爱的狗狗可真机灵,给我带路不说,还陪我一起看日出,(看日出的地方在一个半岛边上,要走30分钟左右)看来昨天的肉没有白给他吃,呵呵。天边的云很多,没有看到日出,但是拍到朝霞也很快乐的事。 8.30返回,吃早饭,听到台湾人说要走茶马古道(早就听闻南方丝绸之路---茶马古道)很想去看看,但是妹妹们昨晚受了惊吓,执意要回丽江,很明显,看来我的和他们一起回去了……很郁闷,说句心里话,我真很想留在泸沽湖,在呆一天,为了看到日出,为了走走茶马古道,为了去永宁温泉泡泡澡。可是妹妹们要走,哎,如果没有人留下,看来我也要走了。当时,我离下决定回丽江只有0.01秒,suddenly, 广州妹妹找我,对我说我们一起去走茶马古道吧,好吗?希望我和她一起去,还说如果我不去她也不去,我考虑了很久,望着妹妹乞求的眼光,俺同意了她的提议-------需要申明的是俺绝对不是一个重色轻友的人,我真的想走走着条大名鼎鼎的南方丝绸之路,因为暑假可能我我要去北方的丝绸之路---新疆,看看,并且希望拍到泸沽湖的日出,当然,我也相信每个男人也绝不会拒绝漂亮美眉的邀请啊,是吧?只是可怜与我同行的两个老友了,我相信在回去的路上他们绝对把我骂成猪头,这是后话。既然决定,就要和云南朋友告别。他们时间不够,必须回昆明上班。与小白,带鱼,螃蟹妹妹拥抱告别,约好有机会到四川来玩,我和广州妹妹还有扎西,台湾人,满族人踏上了去茶马古道的漫漫征途。
茶马古道是自唐代以来逐步形成的沟通川、滇、藏边三角地区的茶马古道。
“茶马古道””是藏族地区以马匹、皮毛、麝香、鹿茸、藏红花、贝母、虫草等特产与四川、云南各民族地区交换以茶叶为主包括糖、布、线、粉丝等生活必需品的商业通道,依靠马帮在山谷、 驿道中成年累月地长途跋涉来运行。
对这条古道的具体路线至今学术界各说不一,似乎形成了一个联系川、滇、藏乃至东南亚诸国的茶马古道网络。但其中涉及大理的一条路线是十分明显的,它发端于思茅地区、西双版纳的云海茶山之中,向西通过云县、凤庆到达大理,再向北至丽江经中甸、维西、德钦进入西藏。这从近代下关茶叶生产的可靠史料可以得到证明:长期以来下关成为滇茶最大的加工、集散中心,原料主要来自缅宁(临沧)、顺宁(凤庆)、 双江的勐库、博南以及车里(景洪)、佛海(勐海)、南峤(勐遮),运输全靠马帮。主要产品为销往藏区的边销茶(包括沱茶、紧茶、饼茶)。 1941年滇藏合资在下关成立”康藏茶厂”(即下关茶厂的前身)。抗战期间,下关有茶厂达18家之多,1946年边销茶的年产销量高达25000多担。
马帮驮运的路程由下关至丽江经德钦到昌都约4300多公里,马帮连走带休需80~90天。从这一史料可以推知大理在茶马古道上的重要地位。
自唐代以来,茶叶成了藏胞生活的必需品,宋代开始又推行”以茶治边”的政策,宋神宗熙宁7年(公元1074年)在永北(今永胜) 设茶马司以茶叶交换马匹,至清朝历代又在滇西多处设茶马互市。而滇茶始终是藏胞唯一信赖的生活必需品,使得这条神秘的古道绵延千年,成为各民族友好交往的纽带。
无数史料表明,绵亘散布在横断山脉崇山深谷中的茶马古道,以频繁往来的马帮商队作媒介、作载体,进行着汉、藏、白、彝、傣、纳西等各民族的文化、宗教、艺术交流,增进着边疆各民族之间的友谊和团结。对于大理来说,正是形成其历史、宗教和文化艺术多元性以及白族的开放性的重要历史原因。
车把我们带到不通公路的小村庄里,我们换上马匹,上路,悠扬的铃铛回响在千百年来走过无数马帮的古道上,我们一路翻山越岭,这条经五朵金花的故乡大理古城、丽江纳西古镇,世界著名的大峡谷虎跳峡,香格里拉之称的迪庆藏区,及世界屋脊—青藏高原的古道是世界上最为艰险的道路之一。我们走了大约4个小时,翻过4座山头,返回出发地吃午餐,午餐是烤鸡,烤土豆,啤酒,和烤鱼,是在经过永宁时在市集上买的,生起火,把土鸡杀了,放上盐,放在碳火上烤,不一会儿,香气四溢,让我们垂涎三丈,呵呵放上孜然,辣椒面,花椒面,吃的我们……,大家可以自己去体会,一个字,爽,啤酒,烤鱼,烤土豆,我的嘴吃的嘿嘿的,手也黑了,自然这些黑糊糊的手要摸摸妹妹们漂亮的脸蛋,嘿嘿,无耻吧,好在俺的老友不在,不然俺在他们心中的光辉形象……哎,不说也罢。吃玩饭,收拾好垃圾,把骨头和没有吃玩的烤鱼带回去给小狼吃,看看大家嘿嘿的脸蛋,赶回永宁去泡温泉。嘿嘿------永宁温泉,大大的有名,这是一个祥和而宁静的地方,群山绵延,摩梭人、普米族的村寨依傍着群山,村村寨寨相连,家家户户相邻,鸡犬之声相闻,炊烟袅袅,古风淳朴,令人陪觉温馨。宽广的永宁坝子尽现眼前,格姆神山离你如此亲近,黛色的山峰和斑驳的岩石清晰可辨,在田畴阡陌间,劳作的人们不停地忙碌着,吆喝声、欢笑声和歌唱声交杂在一起,远远传来,悠悠飘荡,久久不散。每当秋收过后,忙碌了一年的人们便聚在终年热气腾腾、蒸汽弥漫的温泉,男女同池共浴,与大自然和谐而畅快地融合在一起,好不惬意!秀美的自然风貌与古老淳朴的民风形成了一种至美的境界,好不乐哉。
温泉每人2元,我们都没有带泳衣泳裤,满族大哥可顾不了这么多了,拖光衣服,跳进温泉,先享受起来,呵呵,光光啊!想到既来之,我也下了水,一广州妹妹也下了水,还有一同来的另外一妹妹也下水,不过他们一人穿了一件白色的上衣,一人穿了三点式,下水,由于交通、文化交流都很封闭,与山外的交往甚少,人与人之间纯朴无瑕,到温泉洗浴露天池塘,无需回避路人,扶老携幼,不分彼此,在纯洁自然的气氛中共泡一池水同饮一罐酒,相互交换食物,传递酒碗,攀谈问候,拉家常,对山歌,好一派古朴自然的民间风俗与和谐景象。如今随着山门的打开,形形色色的文化差异的侵入,这样超越世俗的文化现象,在各人眼中所看到却是变异了欲念,一时间这片灿烂的文化失去了生息的养分。
今天的人们为了堵塞着一道一道贪婪的目光,把池塘一分为二,从中间隔离起一道鸿沟,警示人们不可越雷池。这道鸿沟从60年代第一次隔离到今天,隔墙从高几十公分加码到几米,最终把整个池塘封死修成了房子。这时人们才真正理会了永宁温泉昔日的精彩价值,昨天天人合一的文化历史,给今天的人们多少羡慕和向往,多少遐想和反思。除此而外,永宁温泉受旅游者青睐的还有一个原因是,它被周围民族文化浓郁的村庄所包围。摩梭风情完好保留着的瓦拉比、依满瓦、阿汝瓦、阿古瓦等摩梭村寨的陪衬,产生了温泉的休闲疗养屿领略风情的珠连璧合、交相辉映的完美效果。我们是在露天温泉里。没有搁开的那种,嘿嘿。
妹妹们犀利的言语激怒了俺们,于是几个人上去要求回归大自然,吓的妹妹们大叫,呵呵,我在一边欣赏,嘿嘿,还有嘛,就是英雄救美了……
享受完永宁温泉昔日的精彩已是一个小时以后的事了,俺们座车回到里格半岛,吃完晚饭,和一些驴友们一起聊天,广东人牙医把他拍的片片放给我们看,这是他走茶马古道时拍的,从我们今天的出发地开始,走7~10天可以到稻城,亚丁,他就是在没有向导的条件下走的,带了10天的给养,结果迷路,走了28天,终于出来了,曾经一块压缩饼干吃了一周,真是勇士,如果是我也许早就崩溃了,看到一路上拍的绝美风光,深深体会毛主席的诗词:无限风光在险峰,世界上最壮丽的风光属于那些不怕艰难困苦,勇于攀登的勇士。夜深……
第二天一早起床,和广州朋友一起去看日出,返回后坐车回丽江,与广州朋友们告别,和小莫,还有俺的朋友们坐夜车回昆明(我真的不想离开啊,如果不是妹妹家里有事需要赶回去,如果不是开学要回去上课),云南朋友已走,这一天的开销我大约是120.00左右。包括吃饭,住宿,包马费用以及车费。
附:21号费用120.00¥
22号早上到昆明付车费130.00¥给妹妹们买好回云南的火车票,小莫去杭州的火车票,我们去吃大名鼎鼎的过桥米线,有人请客,在昆明逛街,1.00钟左右送妹妹上火车,4.00钟送小莫去杭州,我一个人在昆明闲逛,等11.00的班机回成都。机票330.00机场建设费10.00。在机场等机的时候偶遇广州朋友们,世界真小啊!和广州朋友们依依惜别后,孤独的我飞回了成都……
如果你不甘于生活的平庸,想找个景色秀美的地方作一次穿越冒险;如果你厌倦了城市的喧嚣,想找个有山有水的地方彻底的放松几天;如果你憋闷于工作压力而想找个有雪山和蓝天的地方作一次自由的深呼吸;那么有一个地方可以满足你所有的需要----那就是云南。人生都是在不断变化中行进的,人生也在追求无穷无尽的变化,以免生命陷于孤寂和枯萎之中。旅行,也是追求生活形式变化的一种生活方式。走入原野,一山一水,一草一木,总有些让人激动的东西……
总计费用:607+124+85.5+44+66.5+128+154+120+130+340=1800.00¥
加上其他费用,不会超过2000.00¥
夜深……
窗外,暮色中飘着细雨空气中透着丝丝寒冷端起茶杯,喝一口热茶耳边传来熟悉的旋律脑海里过去的往事也渐渐变的清晰不知不觉陷入片片回忆仿佛又见你隐隐的身影微笑着走来想触摸你,却又遥不可及一曲渐罢,一切陷入沉寂我还是我,那样孤独……
flymouse于2003.4.2,夜
作者:flymouse