Finally the daughter of country Lugu Lake / Shangri-La dream Daocheng Aden on foot through the diary
Authors: Jia Tao Xia Yulong mountain people by E_mail: xiajiataoyn@hotmail.com
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June 6, 2003 -26 days, while the vast land of odd to be a sudden catastrophe, such as - "SARS" epidemic of the occasion, we (Yulong mountain people, A Jian) and caravans (junction Badelon, Seoul Car Ma ) along the following lines to complete our anti-"SARS" Journey: Lijiang - Lugu Lake - Yongning Spa - Wood Lane Mountain - Aden - Inagi - Litang - kang DING - Chengdu - Xichang - Panzhihua - Lijiang, where foot Lugu Lake / Inagi Aden eight days along the year was an Austrian-American botanist, geographers and anthropologists Joseph Locke's footsteps to find our dream of Shangri-La.
Attractions and Background:
Lugu Lake:
Lugu Lake in Yunnan and Sichuan Yanyuan Ning Langxian between the town 72 kilometers away from the Ninglang Xian. Like a glittering jewel set in the mountains northwest Yunnan plateau a pair. Lake elevation of 2685 meters, but his face is about 48.5 square kilometers, of which 30.5 square kilometers in Yunnan, with a total capacity of 1.953 billion cubic meters of water, the water inflow towards the Yalong River and finally into the Jinsha River, belong to the Yangtze River. The lake is an average depth of 40 meters, maximum depth of 93.5 meters, in Yunnan lakes, after Chengjiang Fuxian, ranking the second place. The entire lake, Zhuangruo Horseshoe, North East and West long narrow neck gourd shaped like a song, hence the name Lugu Lake. Absolutely fabulous lakes and mountains in between the continuation of a rare live at home and abroad with the characteristics of matriarchal Mosuo people, it's unique, "Assia" marriage, natural and primitive customs, for this ancient land infected with a layer of the mysterious and beautiful colors, known as the mysterious daughter of the country the East.
Daughter, thousands of country style, one lived for generations because of Lake Mosuo people still retain the original matriarchal society of the extended family system and the men do not marry a woman does not marry, "Assia marriage" customs; second Mosuo people "respect for women worship Mother "culture, it seems that has also affected the lake landscapes, beautiful and ethereal to become the feature into this line into the Pure Wansi goddess territory.
Inagi Aden and Joseph Rock:
Aden Scenic Area in 2002 by the State Council as a National Nature Reserve. Is now actively apply for world natural heritage. However, in view of its magnificent, so many years ago have known.
Aden Tibetan means "sunny place." Scenic core of 24 holy places of Buddhism in the world ranking 11th place three presume the main snow-capped mountains. "Are creatures of God Jide towards the holy shrine." 3 presume the main snow-capped mountains for the three peaks Dingli and Zhi, North Peak Xiannai Ri, which means Guanyin Bodhisattva, charitable serenity, warm and calm, elevation 6032 meters, in order to Inagi first peak; South Peak Yangmai Yong, meaning Manjusri , dignified and quiet,冰清玉洁, elevation 5958 meters; Higashimine Xianuoduoji, meaning Vajrapani, handsome and staunch, his voice, elevation 5958 meters. 3 Xuefeng was "goods"-shaped, peaks around the peaks everywhere, large and small, a total of more than 30 seats, is both varied and very beautiful spectacular. It still did not have three snow-capped mountains to climb virgin peaks.
In the exploration history of this region for the first time documented the activities of the French in 1909 to Inagi region Gongga Beko Ridge Temple visits, due to bad weather, he did not see snow-capped mountains. England National Geographic Society in September 1924 issue of the "Geographic magazine," an article entitled "Snow Mountain in Yunnan," the article, the first time, Inagi mentioned that the three sacred mountains, but no detailed information and pictures, also marked geographical in the Yunnan region.
Foreigners for the first time an official report to the outside world that the three sacred mountains of the American Joseph. Locke, who in 1928 came to Aden from the wood inside the three sacred mountains on foot to gather a great deal of valuable information is also shooting a lot of historic significance photographs, and later published in the United States, "National Geographic" magazine, these valuable data are still attracts many domestic and foreign adventure explorers to the region.
Joseph Locke (1884-1962) Austrian-American botanist, geographers and anthropologists. 1922 - 1949 years of 27 years, he has the U.S. "National Geographic magazine," the U.S. State Department of Agriculture, the United States Harvard Institute of Botany, explorer, writer, photographer identity, has in China's southwestern Yunnan Province Sichuan area lived 27 years.
1922 - 1931, the Joseph Locke in the United States National Geographic Society with the support of Lijiang in Yunnan Province as a base for expeditions to the area in the southwest study; in June 1928, Locke in the Muli king arrangements, and follow him for many years 21 Naxi followers from Lugu Lake County, through the wooden house foot Township, Lodi Township, to Inagi Aden Water Nature Reserve. 1928 -1931, the "National Geographic Magazine," Locke carried straight on Inagi Aden, "Say Green Day Song Gongbu Gongga" Kamiyama region, text and image data, causing a huge stir. The article said that he Inagi Aden saw the world's most beautiful three peaks, Inagi worthy of the Tibetan people and Buddhist holy sites and so on. This trip he called "the most of mystery and adventure value" journey. Will be in 70 years ago this piece of Ganzi Autonomous Prefecture in China has never been involved in off white Uncharted brings the world ... ...
In 1931, to discover the mysterious "Shangri-La" as the background of the novel "Lost Horizon" by British novelist James Hilton published, this novel and Locke in "National Geographic magazine," the rapid publication on the cross-dissolve, in the Europe, the United States, Japan and other places has made waves, and to "Shangri-La" the word spread around the world, but also in the rise around the world boom in the search for Shangri-La.
Shangri-La Where?
Hilton stated that his readers can not be found on any map Shangri-La, but he also hinted that: Shangri-La to lay a long valley, on both sides of a seemingly lonely hills but very sad, but its highest point is is "the world's most beautiful and lovely mountains," "This is almost a flawless white cone-shaped peaks, a simple outline as if from a child's handwriting."
According to The Nature Conservancy provided a report on the propaganda card that the Shangri-La, Hilton, and neither Capra visited the area, many people speculated that Hilton writing "Lost Horizon" draws its inspiration from the 1924 to 1935 published between "National Geographic" magazine launched by Joseph Rock in the northwest of Yunnan adventure series.
Hilton's "Lost Horizon" is a fictional novel, but any fictional novels can not be concocted out of thin air, and there is always a single real-life prototypes of life impact. Hilton have never been to southwest China, and his work is described by a plane flying from west to east fringe of Tibet was forced to land in a mysterious valley - the adventures of Shangri-La. What is intriguing is the novel describing real-life Shangri-La and Lijiang in southwest China - Lugu Lake - Water Luo Valley - a perfect fit the actual Daocheng Aden: the novel of the snow-capped mountains, the Grand Canyon, temples, gardens and other natural match; and novel human harmony with nature themes of national traditional culture is consistent ... ... Maybe this is what we dream of Shangri-La?!? ... ...
The ancients said: "Long Journey, won big applause." To continue to understand the world through tourism has always been love outdoor activities, Yunnan, Lijiang, Yulong mountain of local people, A Jian two people completed the walk before the Tiger Leaping Gorge - Lugu Lake, Haba Snow Mountain - baishuitai, Meili Snow Mountain, in turn, economic, Drung and so on, after crossing on foot, this plan - on foot Lugu Lake / Inagi Aden unusual for us to have different meaning, we use our own manner of anti-"SARS" tour, along the Austrian-American botanist year home, geographers and anthropologists Joseph Locke's footsteps to find our dream of Shangri-La.
1, ready to walk (Lijiang / Lugu Lake / Yongning Hot Springs)
June 6, we proceed from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, sitting 4-hour shuttle bus, we arrived at Ninglang Xian city, this has a little known in Liangshan Yi Autonomous County of the city before we reach the most populous county Daocheng place, tile decorating the streets, poor health status shows there is a development in the city, where I changed some money, which was very convenient in the mountains. We just get off, there is enthusiasm for the local minibus drivers waved to us, that our luggage proof of our purpose in coming. Three hours later, we arrived at the lake, accompanied by two local villagers, a Hunan's youth volunteers, and she finished at the local lake drowning small as a teacher, to complete her outlook on life, very interesting, I think it is life bar.
Lugu Lake is known as "Pearl of the plateau," said, 2685m above sea level, when fine weather after the rain the lake is more beautiful, the lake islands Tingtingyuli, shape varied, trees lush, green picturesque, slowly sliding in azure above the The Zhu Caochuan and slowly floating in the Tianshui Mosuo between the folk songs, so that even added some ancient period, a bit quiet. As in the "SARS" period, few tourists, which makes the lake extremely graceful. Night, we enjoy the local Zhu Biaorou, fresh fish the lake, and the Mosuo uncle chat, there is no singing and dancing the night is also beautiful Moso.
June 7, four days of rain finally clear up the day after tomorrow, and good weather presage tomorrow's walk will be a memorable journey. We came to ride under the Lion Rock Yongning Township, here is a very high altitude rice growing areas, the local red rice famous in the market, where they prepared some food, and later discovered that varieties of these foods are too monotonous, allowing us to reach the next Station Shiyou supplemented. That afternoon, we transfer in the hot springs hiking guide and groom knot Badelon (hereinafter referred to stammer) lived under the structure of his house, houses along the way and then we see the Tibetan houses are similar. Housing is a square-shaped wooden building, second floor, first floor, which is fed to livestock corrals, horse cow pig and chicken was very complete. The middle is a four-square garden, livestock and people can human activities, also was very dirty, mud, animal feces everywhere, this is the so-called civilized society from the tourists coming from the most unbearable thing, it directly to the bring a strong visual impact.
As night fell, when we Mosuo people's grandmother room using dinner, stammer Mary Sullivan brought the Moso's all we drink wine, which is a wheat, corn and other pickled in rice wine, but also saw a whole head pig fat, was originally a whole boneless pork, Zhu Biaorou with local climate-related Every year in October of each village, killing pigs produced pork fat is concentrated. Show their drink three cups of wine, tomorrow we start on foot from here.
2, theme: Walking Lugu Lake / Inagi Aden through the eight days from Lugu Lake to the foot of Aden across the Daocheng general there are two paths are based on hot springs as a starting point. Emei Village through a yes to Russia after the tooth fellow east-yi direction, starting from the village of Cass Cass hell through the valley, from Xian Nairi and Yang Maiyong Yakou between snow-capped mountains wear down, after milk, sea, Luorongniuchang arrived in Aden Chonggu Si. Walking 3 days left to Russia teeth fellow, there have been a simple village roads can lead to Cass, but very few passing vehicles can be rented tractor. This road is not difficult, just a few pieces through the forests and 5,000-meter snow-capped mountains Yakou Yang Maiyong not be turned several mountains, in addition to Cass Hell Valley scenery outside is limited. The other one is to the highland pastures Carl direction, over the water after the Luo River gold mine, from the snow-capped mountains Yakou Xialuoduoji turned over, straight Daya Ding Chong Gusi. This road is basically the plateau on the journey needs to climb several mountains about 4,000 meters and about 4735 meters Yakou the Xianuoduoji Yakou, all the way is quite difficult. We chose the Carl pasture this road, does not challenge the line would make the whole journey bleak. Although Carl ranch on this road on foot is not completely follow the footprints of the year Josef Locke's advance, but I think we really went into the dream of Shangri-La ... ... ..
June 8th Circuit: Hot Springs Village - Li Jia Zui - Township foot house before the grasslands (La Shuidong)
Last night, we know and our accompanied by stuttering Assia (Mosuo people take marriage, partner) Mary car Seoul, stuttering is a common Mosuo people, of medium build, outline a clear, very hard working, enthusiastic and cheerful , starting today, eight days for firewood for our fire, making tea cooking, without him we may be unable to complete the journey on foot. Caravan near nine o'clock we began to clean up properly after the start, horses from the composition of a mule and a horse, horse is very gentle, but powerful enough to really "horse mule pack than not," from Ninglang Yongning Township, Hot Springs Village, is a land out of the road the road on both sides of a wide field. Half an hour later, at Lu Yi Five small village beside the old horse to help us along the road slowly started climbing, hill and dale of the rhododendrons bloom in silence after the rain, rendering into the eye-catching scenery. Not too high, turned over Yakou (2970m), after passing through a forest, 11:30, we arrived at Yanyuan Toshiie Zuicun. Here is a small village Mosuo people, all with extended family, even more than 300 people over 20. The local people claim to be Mongolian, according to legend this is around the Yuan dynasty in 1253 Kublai Khan who often had mishaps on. After lunch, they jumped over the hills 3040m above sea level Yakou entered Muli County Township foot house in the wizard to us about the future days, should we be afraid of the mountain, distant mountains in the mist of Buddha extraordinarily ambitious, today's with impressive results achieved through the two provinces in the three counties. 15:00 pm We are the house feet Heung Ming Jiaoji Year of the pasture before the camp, there is a small river into the La Shuidong, the Montreal purple primroses in tents around the camp is really good, fly in the ointment is the dinner we drink water, because the days of rain turned into mud soup. I think this is a strange world to witness another way of life and experience another life course, to my ordinary life, the pages of the book was added to a color page, or black and white photographs.
June 9th Circuit: La Shuidong - House Rural feet - is Faldo Yi Village - Tribulus terrestris Ancient Yakou grassland under the horses we have 8:50 am ready to continue the road, in 40 minutes after the arrival of Mongolian Autonomous Township foot house. This is a multi-ethnic and mixed ethnic minority village, there are Mosuo people, Yi, Pumi, Mongolians and other nationalities. There is a simple village house feet of dirt roads may be opened to traffic, a jeep and motorcycle will be parked at the entrance to the village, where the "Grain for Green" before the busy transit point for forest areas. The village next to a house foot river, the river flowing into the joy of a beautiful valley, we follow the easy road ahead, the state has always been good, always without intermittently walk in front of the caravan, and even the ranks of rejection often very far away. 11:10 We arrived at the bridge is Faldo Yi village, began to climb the Buddha mountain, hillside villages inhabited by the Yi, and legs belonging to rural housing. Local watchdog after the bark at the fence screaming, we have a strange image in the ground may be very conspicuous. In the next few days, we basically through the 3000-4200 m in the plateau between the trek, and in the true sense of the forest to walk through the way encountered the indigenous villagers a day not more than 10 people, I have more than 4000 m climbing climbing step by step, when the lack of oxygen are uniform up slow operations, there are many times, even the mule are breathing. After a pine forest, we called the leech area of virgin forest in the next lunch, where the groom stammer demonstrated his skills in a good field fire last few days, the rain did not affect his operation, choose the groom is really very important. Zone through the leech, we found that leech in the first person through the atmosphere when you could smell the grass from the street to wake up ready to attack in the past pedestrians and horses, but fortunately, only the horses when they graze bitten a few mouth, but actually a leech in the leech area have not attacked our team four people to some extent, this will lead to hunger, leech has been lost ... ... 17:00 PM We are in the rain, climbing a half hours later reached an altitude of about 3900m of Tribulus terrestris ancient Yakou, turn this on arrival Yakou Carl Muli County ranch, we are under the pasture where Yakou camp and pasture around the white azaleas exceptionally beautiful, high-altitude mist-shrouded meadows below, looking at distance The Lion Rock, there is a mood-elevating feeling. We go to pasture not far from the outlet of the shower, brush your teeth when you experience the taste of ice water, teeth almost lost on the cold ... no ... Tonight the stars over the grassland has a dense mass of clouds, while beginning to rain down as expected. I listened to the rain pounding the tent intermittent sound, loses sleep over. Din Din griddle pan to well when the horse ring near the Kongkuo resounded through the wilderness, this crisp, ringing like a lullaby to accompany us through a number of the night. Mule at night are generally not tied to the pile on the left to move back and forth on the grass grazing, but also not afraid of their escape, the mountains of the good faith of people simply do not worry about Pirates of the horse and the like to happen. Surprisingly, yes, Tribulus terrestris, under the ancient grassland Yakou actually have a mobile phone signal, I reported to my family and friends of the peace.
June 10 Line: Tribulus terrestris ancient grassland under Yakou - Carl Ranch - tas ditch - Sparrow Fall Mountain Ranch last night's rain did not affect our departure, 9:10 Yakou we embarked, 4150m of Tribulus terrestris is not the ancient Yakou imagine so hard, we climbed one step at a solid pace of the up, only took half an hour later, we walked a rhododendron bush reached Yakou, according to local customs to Mani Tim heap of small stones, such as action to help us have gone through the next few days trip. When down through the rhododendron bushes and Mary do a heap, we have come to forests under the ridge, the valley is the Carl ranch, from the hillside around the past, did not stay at the ranch. Pastures have pockets of several wooden huts, the surrounding around the fence, pasture, there are yaks, horses graze in the buried, I really have "the bluest of blue sky Baiyun Piao, white clouds below the horse run" Zongma speeding desire ... ... the ranch dominated by alpine meadows, purple azaleas as a Dean-like color of the carpet is not flat valley to the distant extension of a gurgling brook across from the pasture edge. 11:50 noon, we turned over all the West Yakou later, in a small mountain at the foot of the beautiful lake, lunch, as are rhododendrons blooming season, and the lake were yellow pollen drift, and this is the plateau green lunch, compared with natural pollen mixed with a feeling worth remembering. Climbed over a small Yakou about 4200 meters, the eyes suddenly light up, the following trough colorful and picturesque scenery, this is beautiful tas groove. Ventas groove is crossed to heaven Aden before the passing of the most beautiful valleys, dreamlike scenery is still surrounded by my mind.
After finishing the downhill carefully walk through a swamp, we have 15:20 in the afternoon to the cho la tasa groove under the last paragraph of a lawn, camping here tonight. The lawn was full of cow dung, we are going to sleep in tonight on the cow dung. This is not bad, only the flowers was inserted in cow dung on the Well. We camp next to a simple cow grazing in the cho la basin, the all around top of the hill bare little vegetation, camp altitude is not low, there are 3950 meters. Camp opposite a waterfall from the top flows into primary forests, tas, lying in ditch quiet valley, this is Austin-shaped purple rhododendron and distant white, yellow, red, pink azalea bush together constitute the a beautiful landscape, or even vaguely have Jiuzhaigou's shadow, beauty and the monotony of dinner in sharp contrast.
June 11 Line: Sparrow Fall Mountain Ranch - Mongolia sub-Ga Kamiyama - Longsa pasture beside the edge of the forest road as early as 8:55 we had another one involving swamps, waded through muddy horse Road, in the drizzling rain across the landscape, such as painting ventas ditch, after this day, we follow the year's Tea-Horse Road crossing up a few forests, jumped over the Mongolian sub-Ga Kamiyama, after a few patches of highland pastures after arriving before nightfall Longsa pasture edge, the beautiful scenery adds to my life in a memorable memories. I Ejian easily skip the pan-Smirnov-flow streams, walk through swamps, and some sections seem to take the plum movie heroes, like piles need to jump before it is passed. Soon we began to climb mountains, and dense forests, and I went through the Meili Snow Mountain in turn is surprisingly similar forest vegetation, tall trees, forests, flourish mostly pine. Every pine tree, both covered with green green radish, fluttering in the wind all over the sky, the rhythmic sound of the caravan bells quiet is even more evident in the old trail. 10 o'clock we reached an altitude of 4180M small Yakou, sunny day when the groom said that you can see snow-capped mountains of Aden, and we worship the direction along the Mani Dui about the distance Kamiyama. After a relatively gentle little trail on the downhill, we came to Mongolia with a stone forest landscape characteristics sub-Ga Kamiyama in front of clouds in the holy mountains even more mysterious, I realized that in nature is so tiny. . . . . . After the 14 o'clock lunch, we crossed the Mongolian sub-4350M Ga Kamiyama Yakou, came wide grasslands, the purple dotted where Dean-like azalea, azalea bush, forests, numerous Mani Dui, cloud formation in Kamiyama a beautiful picture. Rain in the afternoon we had a difficult journey, we came to the Long Sa 17:30 pm pasture edge of the forest road beside rained constantly non-stop, just as I worry about dinner when you light a fire, we are fortunate to find a small cave, so that we spent in the rain, an extraordinary night. I now feel that the local villagers over to the Mani Yakou Tim heap of small stones is a multi-need somewhere to dominate their own, "busy reactive" is useless, so that we can encounter in the rain a cave fire, we are back The Yanyuan caravans are less lucky, the evening is very difficult, the next day the wrong path, backward have our half-day away.
June 12 Line: Long Sa pasture beside the edge of the forest road - Tongtianhe Side - East La Village (Fei Liu Mashimo 2000 m)
As early as 9:00 am We Longsa pastures beside the edge of the forest road and began to go down Yakou embarked. 20 minutes later, we reached an altitude of 4,000 meters Yakou from Yakou an area where we began the endless downhill, the next too low means that after more than a few days we will be more than for the difficult climbing, because we ultimately have to climb about 4800 meters The snow-capped mountains to get to the Daya Ding Yakou. We chose the path down the mountain, rainy day to go muddy mountain is not wise, but today the line is very long, the only way not to delay the trip a mountain, a section of highway. Mountain is a shortcut down the mountain, but signs were not obvious, several days of rain, the mountain towering pine trees on the tall and straight and proud on the extraordinarily strong and vigorous, tree beard released into the atmosphere in the trees, pink azalea shrub dotted the forest. After a while we need to take a mountain road, so that alternately several times, this road is obviously used to transport timber is not wide, several serious landslides means that for a long period of time here, no longer open to traffic a. Highway under the valley streams murmuring, crisp sweet. A dive down from the mountain streams, murmur to flow through the highway to the valley any more. Many streams in the disorder to lay thick deadwood Unfortunately, these gradually decayed wood. In our pre-departure Yanyuan caravan chiefs may not know that fork in the road sub-path has been along the forest road downhill, and soon lagged behind in our rear. We are in the forests along the highway side of the trail to continue bolted down, 13 o'clock when the bell arrived in Ludu village, with an elevation drop, keeping us company for a few days of rain we say goodbye. After lunch, we cross the winding road continues rapid decline, at 16:00 to arrive at water potential of the turbulent water Luo River (also known locals Tongtianhe) side. We are in the water two days in the future through the Luohe valley, valleys, the upper and lower elevations in the 2200M, the mountains more barren, vegetation is not good, along with Tibetan village, with terraces. Nature is very fair, and river gravel containing gold, the gold has long been known in the riverside. Water Luo valleys of the Jinsha River valley of Lijiang, Baoshan Stone City is very similar, I am very proud to own such a place can have quietly gone through, although not had to leave footprints and shadows, but never got unforgettable memories. There are several hills toast remnants of the towers, isolated in the Cham, blue skies, was very eye-catching, is said to be the year of Lijiang Naxi Wood King of toast to be left behind when the local gold mining to under. Around 17:30, we pulled around the East Village, came to the hill of the primary schools. Pull the mouth of the East Village there are dozens of the hundreds of roadside Mani Dui, yes I have seen the largest group of Mani Dui. Mani Dui fact to the size of stones stacked in pyramid shape, some stones will be engraved with golden verses, scripture is Tibetan, there are some bamboo poles stuck in the Mani Dui provoked streamer, in the the wind blowing. After Mani Dui said when the bypass from the left to go to show their awe. La primary school in the East, we have encountered an elderly Tibetan school for his two granddaughters to make rice, a month or so once they come back to after walking four hours to reach home. We bought a chicken in the village as a dinner entree, the price of chickens so that I will never forget the experience. We went to a couple of laps around the village asked a few people have said that his family had no chickens, and groom them to buy horses and they said there was no grass, the hospital calls in the chicken, horse bells sound ruthless betrayed them, is indeed surprised? ! ? . . . . . . Later, it bought a tongue so much is slightly larger than the quail chicks, fifty yuan, and Phoenix is really about. But the most memorable thing is that we have today from an altitude of about 4000M above sea level 2000M water downhill to the river Luo really Fei Liu Mashimo 2,000 meters. . . . . .
June 13 Line: East La Primary School - duro Village - 4 Village - gold - Galuo village last night's heavy rain so that we wake up very early, and 08:50 we embarked on the next stop, on the road we met Several teams caravan, very far from the sound of horse bells on uploaded Trail opened, on a distant hillside where goats graze in the valley. 12:00 minutes we arrived in gold have been known for a long time. Gold mine is located in a hillside, the need to go through a small bridge, the baishuihe brawl from the valley through the rushes out from under the bridge, plunging to a turbid water Luohe, near the mouth of the formation of entirely different in the waterline . Gold gold-rich, multi-year boom had a while ago, and now because of the increasing depletion of reserves wilt millet sluggish, still some gold mining boss. Gold There are several small shops, material deprivation, bought some gifts, we have met in the stammer of a family to eat lunch, we sat cross-legged on a mat, drinking instant play host to our system of butter tea. . Housing is a typical Tibetan wooden building, on the first floor to support animals, on the second floor are occupied. You Zhaiyou steep staircase upstairs, almost into the degree bend angle of. On the second floor has a spacious living room, two pillars either side of legislation on both sides of the fireplace, is said to represent the men and women. In the rear there is a fireplace Aden 3 Kamiyama mural on the stove filled with a variety of statues and other items. 14:00 pm we left the gold, along the Tongtianhe move on, half an hour later a white sparkling rivers pour out into the valley and from the Tongtian, which he also called baishuihe. Baishuihe water joy carefree, fast-flowing, hit the rock off a piece of white spray. This is what I have seen the most beautiful rivers, buzzing sound of the water is just like a mildly touching song, it is brisk pace can easily bring our emotions. River water plants lush, good trees silhouetted against the showground. Baishuihe said the water comes from the mouth of Yulong with spirituality. This is a stammer said, I doubt he was also staring eyes solemnly explained to me. I prefer to believe him, even though I know that obviously the water from the snow-capped mountains, maybe that is the source of snow-capped mountains Gongga it. Buddha said to the mountains there are holes. 15:00 Yakou we climbed the hill about an hour later we came to Galuo Village, yellow and green and white terraces, castle-like Tibetan residential areas in the clouds looming, is extraordinarily beautiful. We groom stammer acquaintance named "Azi" and a dozen others ground floor, "Azi" We are a people friendly, the night I broke into the sleeping bag and a few "uninvited guest", made me feel not sleep well Is this is a walk through the necessary experience?
June 14 Line: Galuo Village - Galuo mountain pastures Galuo village, which is arrived at Aden, the last one before their village in the morning 8:20 we began the arduous climbing. As the altitude increases, colorful landscapes on the plateau gradually began to appear in front of Yi Keke isolated pine on hill slopes, teaching people sympathetic, my eyes have a strange moved far from the steep cliff, soles of the feet are colorful shrubs, and occasionally even across a few gurgling streams. Overlooks the village from the cloud in the Galuo Xialuoduoji Kamiyama, always feel that it is very close, but yet so far away to go up. One after another one of those endless little Yakou easily cause Xinfuqizao, dispirited. Have always felt that the goal stands in front of the road on foot, but only after experiencing genuineness of feeling, only step by step and walked with a firm step in order to reach the hearts of the final peak, we do not have wings, we can not fly, but the We are willing to spend time and effort. 11 o'clock we came to an elevation of 4100M's Galuo Yakou, from here to Galuo mountain pastures still have a relatively flat mountain. Today Galuo Yakou much fog, visibility was only about 5 meters and I Ajian out a walkie-talkie to keep in touch. Thinking is not far in front of Aden, I and A Jian grow emotional pace, the caravan left far behind. 16:20 pm We came to an elevation of 4450M's Galuo mountain pastures, here are a few stones piled up 20 made of cow, as precisely Cordyceps harvest season, people here than we thought it would be more pasture where the Tibetans lived, it seems to to a village, really, "Kamiyama under the village."
June 15 Line: Galuo mountain pastures - Xialuoduoji Yakou - Chonggu Si Aden - Aden, a cold night on the village pasture after a long absence, we greet the sunny days, although there are some clouds to see incomplete Xialuoduoji Kamiyama the whole picture, but it indicates that God for us on him. Ranch's breakfast, was able to buy fresh yak milk, 9:10 Yakou we Xialuoduoji attack the snow-capped mountains, to 4500M above sea level, I feel a bit tough, uniform pace has slowed progress. 10:00, we are under a snow-capped mountains Yakou grass see several Tibetans lying on the floor, we stepped forward to inquire about it know what they are looking for caterpillar fungus, we have stopped participating in their ranks, the lucky Ajian in Rhododendron his side to find a caterpillar fungus, we are ecstatic to leave the Napian grass.
11:40 noon, we arrived at 4735 meters of snow-capped mountains pulling a Xialuoduoji Yakou, Yakou, there is a big Mani Dui, Mani Dui provoking the streamer fluttering in the cold wind creaked, Qing Wu flying. I am standing on the blue sky his hips forward in the distance, valley below Yakou lush vegetation, colorful, cross-flow stream slopes, streams are filled with large and small gravel. Oh, the front is in front of Aden. On the snow-capped peaks to misty, next to the two peaks are covered with snow, such as the two white "gold" is used. Xuefeng steep cliff, canyon where dense vegetation, unfathomable. Rhododendron valley remains the same, gurgling streams have been merged into a murmuring stream. I stroll by the river, in the bush walk through, such as the Huaichun woman, fascinated by the brilliant colors. Under the valley there are valleys, while the valley below the color even richer.我信步行去,转过一个弯又一个弯,也不知走了多久,又两座美丽的雪山出现在眼前,我能轻而易举地分辨出,一座是央迈勇,另一座是仙乃日。央迈勇的主峰铺满白雪,如一个白色的“金”字,那是鹰的躯干,而旁峰则象展开的雄鹰的翅膀,随时都将腾空而起。据说这是所有雪山中最美丽的一座。仙乃日如正襟危坐的严师,耸肩收足,给人以端庄肃穆的威严。它是亚丁三神山中最高的山。夏诺多吉循规蹈矩,朴实无华,平静淡然的神态总是不经意地出现在眼底。令人稍感遗憾的是天阴沉沉的,央迈勇和仙乃日都云雾缭绕,未能尽展芳华。从这里开始相当长一段路,三座神山都一直同时出现在眼底,而在亚丁别的地方,能同时看到三座神山的地带颇难寻找,除了我们这种徒步者,能同时看见三座神山的人只有那些虔诚的转山藏民了。随着海拔的下降,穿越了一片长满树胡须的原始森林后,下午15:00我们到达了冲古寺,建于元代的寺院规模依然很大,残垣断壁更显出古寺的沧桑,从这里看仙乃日神山是最好的角度。 18:30我们到达了亚丁村,在藏民家里过夜。
回想冲古寺前的一片草坪格外漂亮,云彩在天上飘、美丽可爱的雪山、茂密的原始森林、静静的河流、牧场上的牛群,马匹,古寺里喇嘛的颂经回响在耳边。难道这不是我梦中的香格里拉吗? . . . . . . .
三、美丽的四川西部藏区
6月16日我们搭车返回了稻城县城,在温泉里洗尽了徒步期间一身的疲劳。经转站里塘、康定等四川西部。那种山腰之间原始森林扶托着雪山,飞泉瀑布,宽谷溪流。大地上镶嵌着明镜般的湖泊,绿绿草甸,牧场牛羊,木屋毛毡交相辉映,构成的一幅幅原始迷人的风景画一直在我的脑海里回荡。 . . . . .
四、成都/西昌/攀枝花/丽江
6月20日从康定经过11个小时后车程后,我们到达了成都,和朋友一起在锦江边喝茶,遇到了西藏的老朋友。很快我们转火车去了西昌,在6月24日我看到电视中报道北京“非典”“双解除”,我们的抗“非典”历程胜利了,我们以健康的身体战胜了“非典”。 6月26日又回到了我们温暖的家,回家的感觉真好。
我喜欢背包徒步的感觉,那种感觉令我总是充满憧憬,“健康才是硬道理”,这句话在“非典”时期有特殊的意义,我真希望我们爱好户外运动的朋友“让一部分人先走起来”。 Ha! Ha! Ha!
如果你执意追问我为何时刻都向往远方,我将双手负后,笑望长空,在那蔚蓝的天幕下因风飘漾、快乐游弋的白云,正是我此刻的心境。倘若你仍想追问我为何选择行走,那请让我认真地告诉你:或许我没有能力在无路的地方闯出一条路,但是,只要世间有路的地方,我的脚就能够到达;只要我的脚能够到达的地方,我的心必能够到达!
旅行就是我的一切,只有在路上我才能感觉到生命的价值与生活的多姿多彩,我才会觉得这样活着真好……
我心飞飏。 . . . . .飞扬在我们梦中的香格里拉。 . . . . .
附录:装备和给养清单:
以下穿越装备和给养是以我们玉龙山人、阿健2人进入徒步泸沽湖/稻城亚丁的亲身经历总结而成,其中有不少经验教训,望能使再去的人少走些弯路。不妥之处还望大家指教修正。
1)背包(我们携带有90L、70L、35L、28L大小背包若干,几乎都配有背包罩)
建议:背包体积大小可视各自情况而定,但务必要考虑自己负重行进的可能,背负系统尽可能好些,尽管此次穿越我们使用马帮负责大件行李,但随身的背包很重要。另外背包的防水性能也一定要列入考虑范围,并加以准备。随身腰包及防身刀具也要准备。
2)帐篷(我们带了双人OZARK)
建议:切记这条线路帐篷一定要带。只要是双层三季帐,防水性一定要好,抗风性要求不高。马帮使用的是简易帐篷:一根绳子,两棵木桩,一张塑料布即可。
3)锣锅(我们只带了二个小的饭锅和一个小水壶)
建议:与马帮商量好由他们带较好,我们曾为此用饭锅烧4人(含马夫)的水和饭。另外斧子一定要带。
4)冲锋衣裤(上衣、防水裤我们每人都有不同的准备)
建议:从整个过程来看,GTX冲锋衣给我帮助最大,大多时间只有上半身是干燥的。 GTX冲锋裤价格虽然不菲,但我认为如有条件那将是很明智的,当然其他类型的防水裤也可以选择。快感(干)冲锋裤最好也准备一条备换(两截更好)。就防雨而言雨衣也是不错的选择。
5)登山鞋(我们每人都准备了较好的登山鞋)
建议:鞋子的防水性还是要强调,因为那样在大多数的时候你不必再小心地涉水,高帮也确实防止了脚腕的扭伤。当地人大都穿我军的解放鞋,防滑性不错,只是鞋底太软,至于防水用不着考虑,反正打湿也不怕。建议去徒步泸沽湖/稻城亚丁有条件可以多带一双解放鞋备换(到达目的地后更换)。
6)睡袋、防潮垫(我们每人一套)
建议:睡袋只要不是在冬季,真空棉的就足够,羽绒会有些热。
7)头灯、手电(我们每人都有准备)
建议:有头灯最好,走夜路用处就大了。
8)沙滩鞋或凉鞋(我准备了)
建议:实在无鞋可换时我那双TEVA帮了大忙。另外在冲凉时、休息时一双舒服的沙滩鞋能解放你劳累的双脚。
9)海拔表、指北针和GPS(我们备有SUUNTO、CASIO户外专用表各一块,GPS一个)
建议:有条件使用户外专用表更好。不然应准备防水和精度较好的海拔表和指北针,当然即便没有也无所谓,向导不会让你迷失方向的。 GPS在当地无数据可寻,加上进入山里经常无法搜寻到3颗以上卫星而失去作用。
10)其它个人和集体需准备的物品:
军刀、手套(最好防水)、帽子(有沿)、水壶或水袋(最好有透明的,有时打水要注意水中有没有蚂蝗)、湿纸巾、防晒油(35+以上)、雨衣(一次性)、压缩袋(备用)、个人卫生用品、地图(尽量详细)、辅绳30m(有时很需要)、登山手杖(也可以就地取材随时制作)
11)我们随行带的药品:
抗生素(好几种)、止痛片(普通和吗啡类)、止泻药、驱虫药(清凉油、风油精、雷达喷雾剂等)云南白药(冷却止痛和治疗喷剂各1)、感冒药、绷带、脱脂棉、脱脂纱布、双氧水、创可贴、维生素(21金维他)、葡萄糖粉、洋叁片,天景红口服液(防高原反应)。注:在行程中所有种类口服药都有使用,外用药除创可贴外没有使用。蛇药应准备一些。
12)应准备的食品:
丽江购买:压缩饼干、密封肉类食品、快食粥、汤料、咸鸭蛋、榨菜、果珍永宁购买:大米、鲜肉(只能保存2天)、熏肉、蔬菜、水果(进去后就只能靠维生素片了)、调料、方便面
作者:xiajiatao