Qiandongnan on the 6th row
12:05 noon on November 12 from Shanghai Hongqiao Airport to fly to Guiyang, Guiyang, 14:40 Longdongbao airport arrival. Landing looked from the window of Guizhou have seen the earth after another while winding mountain road winding line, thousands of miles gut, no wonder that Guizhou has historically been a strategic military. Got off the plane, the ground temperature of 12 degrees Celsius, unlike Shanghai is low, check online weather forecast is wrong, warm clothing and bring too much, and miserable, I have running all the way carrying a large bag on his way in the southeast of Guizhou. By air bus straight to the railway station, admitted the railway guest houses, bought the next day morning, 7:40 to go after Kerry's ticket. At the station door, squatting with a group of dark complexion, with dark blue or black clothes of men and wearing a minority style headscarf, hangings, but wear of the woman, presumably they are the indigenous people of Guizhou.
All the arrangements in place and asked the way to the downtown, then take a road car fountain stop, here is the city commercial center, visited the Parkson Shopping Center and the surrounding shops. Taiping road turned into a street snack. This time is the lanterns, I have a empty stomach Luk Luk came to a relatively clean and self-help fast food shops, 5 yuan / person, first solve the problem of food and clothing, and vegetables are still many varieties, but some cold. After eating out, not far away found a slip of the food stalls, each are used across the board, a very simple and arrayed a number of low tables and chairs. Most of the business of the shop are deserted, almost no guests. Suddenly I heard a loud sound, the sound went down and found a shop not far from the noisy, inside the guests are eating in full swing, eat Well, you need to popularity, to see signs, "unknown spicy hot and sour soup "I went in, regret just eat too full, and eat a little feature at all. There are features at hand, and does not think much of the spare belly to fill, good or ill have to stays stays only live up to this trip. Then want to come to a hot and sour bottom of the pot (hot and sour food along the characteristics of Guizhou), pick up their own dishes, all resting on a shelf layers of varieties rich class alone there are more than 20 kinds of vegetables are string with the bamboo stick with a handful of a handful of places to pick out a number of side dishes will be to sit down, other tables are 3322 bustling my by itself, pot has not opened, made a number of text messages to friends, telling them that my whereabouts. Taste really good, eating a lot of consecutive strings. String with the bamboo stick with pricing particularly convenient, after eating only count the number of thin bamboo sticks, a 2 angle, plus a bottom of the pot of money is the total consumption. End knot accounts, there is a friend from time to time sent text messages, mostly asked, then asked me to pay extra care, "Night chilling hot street music, fine art Guiyang Mala Tang, foreign land is more chaotic than the foreign land, speed back to hotel Mo neglect" is also the , a look at watches, it is 9 o'clock, they Chengju Wang Station. Guiyang's night was also good, approaching the railway station is the discovery that a darkened area, rely on several revealing candle shop barely walk on the road, I heard that Guiyang Railway Station was chaotic, not help the way trot, clutching packets of manpower, feeling passers-by were acting suspiciously, finally touched the hotels, is completely in the dark, originally blackout, and do not know when to call, the next day in the newspaper that originally powered by a nearby explosion. Halo, I have come to Guizhou's first night actually spent in the dark.
November 13 to eat breakfast, beef powder, the other has had no breakfast. Remember two years ago, with the pink ling, eat eat in Guilin was a see a "pink" Banner feel nausea, Guizhou, Guangxi, along with almost all with powder-based, but this time I have to exercise some restraint. There are not as Guizhou, Hunan pepper that tastes sweet.
7:40 on the train to the Kaili began my trip to the southeast of Guizhou. Find it difficult to Guizhou, one of Guiyang, the train on a one to wear to wear to the cave, the scenery along the way no reward.
10:50 to Kerry, Kerry is the capital of Southeast Guizhou Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, but also Qiandongnan economic, cultural and transportation center, it has more than 500 years of history.
Take a taxi to the train and bus stations, ready to go to Lang De. Langde from Kerry 40KM. In the end they ended up, but the taxi drivers Ruanmoyingpao, and to save time, to 50 yuan chartered directly to the Lang De.
Jin Lang De shangzhai, in the case of a Walled door dressed woman, warm and inviting me to her house, gave me reading a 98-year travel magazines, it is the woman on the cover of the miaojia her when she was 2 10 succeed, and who is not pretty but it is on the mirror, now old, is still conceivable that year by her presence. It is now old, and seems to rely on youth to eat no longer the capital, and could only sit and wait for the guests to wear clothes of her seedlings camera. Miao wearing her clothes, she was with me walk around in the Walled Village, according to some of the photos, this stockade did not seem to have any particular place, because there is no performance hit. Here women have the special beauty, which is my general feeling that the Miao Village. The older woman's head is wrapped with bright towels, younger women, the hair high drive, the plug gorgeous flowers, their use of color are especially bright, dancing eyes, red, pink, yellow green, and had done their loved ones, although the sun and wind due to the long labors, premature wrinkles have climbed to their face, but still give way and the pursuit of beauty, this is a woman.
Langde points, the next two stockade, xiazhai do not want to go, with an estimated Walled almost keep up with, then by the Village to go out into the intersection and so the direction of Ray Hill's car to the West River. Half an hour (fare 4 yuan) to Ray Hill, hastily ate lunch, got on the car west river. Motors 1.5 hours to go before the country's largest Xijiang Miao Village --- 1000 Miao Village. West River is located in the northeast 37KM Leishan Department, Walled in by the eight villages together into one. Walled entrance to vault into the eyes is the hundreds of thousands of Diaojiaolou, mountains on both sides of the potential to spread out the momentum of an extraordinary, there is indeed a "sky high and the emperor is far" place.
Walking in the street, it's still not see the other tourists, in the Xijiang Miao over exhausted even less visitors came to the streets a bit deserted, carrying a big package I did not see the second one, on the 26th of this month even before the Miao "the year after that," Unfortunately, so unlikely. Check the national guest houses, I heard just yesterday, was admitted to a pair of Beijing to the couple, in the wash between the encounter and that woman, a woman dressed Miao, pull hair into a bun on top of the head son, also inserted a number of flowers, to do not say I thought she was also born and raised here, do the Miao women.
Did not take advantage of days went to the street Liu Liu dark, but done at dusk, the light too dark already shot down the stone steps had to look at the Miao Village. Miao Village here are built on mountains, over steep terrain and take up quite Chi Jin. Miao Village divided into three layers, the bottom is usually stocked with poultry, two-story living room, kitchen, bedroom three is.
Guest House on the way back again met a small girl with Dan miaojia car, she was enthusiastically invited me to her house to eat dinner, I promised, and I followed her into the street and bought more than a pound of pork, then on her Jia Zuoke the . She zhaili well known due to mountain singing, teacher after graduation working in a mine-town post office, my sister danced very well in Guiyang Song and Dance Troupe, as well as a brother in high school Carey, the father shop, mother household, one-off quite in well-off. They were all very warm, also made less than 10 days out of the bacon are also treated me, as well as their home-brewed liquor, we sat around the blast furnace the United States and the United States to eat dinner. The dining-room ceiling at the top of a separation of a whole floor full of sweet potatoes are piled corn, these are pigs, and wonder where the special delicious taste of pork, non-feed pigs can eat our city than, I have a full night Tim had two bowl of rice.
November 14 Unfortunately, late yesterday afternoon to the West River, can not be photographed. Have to prepare like crazy this morning, and so on. Got up early, 7:30 miaojia it with a woman up the hill, trying to shoot down the hill of grace Miao Village. However, too much fog, clarity is poor, left-right, etc., etc. not see parted and allowed to go. By 9 am, and the fog lifted a bit, unfortunately Miao Village gathered at the east, from the west point of shooting good effect, but the backlighting, it is necessary to take the good times, we must stay up that afternoon, I can not wait, noon to rush to Rongjiang, only hastily took some estimated results will not be very good.
Back to the hostel to pack up ready to return to Carey, because Ray Hill to the road in the road impassable Rongjiang, all of the trucks have to turn back to the Rongjiang Kerry. According to the time line, Carey to Ray Hill, Ray Hill to the West River, full with more than three hours later by the local people pointing, first ride to the direction of Ray Hill's car in the fork in the road, the ride motorcycles to the row or three in music and then back to Kerry, so just over an hour will be able to Carey, this is really a good line. In the fork in the road to catch a big beard motor, big beard Yuemo more than 40 years old, appears to be a kind-hearted people. Speeding along a rugged mountain, one side of mountain streams, clear can be seen at the end, both sides of the scenic landscape. Although the gravel roads, bumpy so badly, but he's very good, what's the risk啦all behind. Beard light driving them cooked, he said that in this area have opened nine years of motorcycles, and not help him even more confidence in them. To the three trees, to Carey's car had left, in order to save time, as well as the exciting motorcycle ride gives me implicitly, and they immediately decided to sit his motorcycle back to Kerry. Back to the road is asphalt Kerry, in the way as to open up more carefree motorcycle, maneuvering. The way through the South to spend Miao Village is also a good Miao Village, a pity that some commercial, and after packaging, Xu spent on the southern side of the road, traffic convenience's sake, the cement road from the side of the road has been to the Village Shop where I Qiandongnan The best road trip Miao Village. Sure enough, before me a group of guests from the Duyun shortly after his arrival by two coaches. Zhaizi beach souvenir shop were filled with children, as well as restaurants, it seems there has been full of commercial atmosphere, and stockade not, the idea is fine.
To leave South Flower Miao Village, nearly 12 o'clock, Speed straight Carey, along the way from time to time to see Miao Village, Castle Peak, green water, the rope bridge, blowing smoke, people, urban spent a long time, it is difficult to see such a simple Veronika's natural scenery. Take advantage of a motorcycle is that you can stop-go, the way the scenery will not miss.
To the Carey bus to buy a ticket Rongjiang 1:00 to go, leaving only 10 minutes, and have no time to eat lunch, and also near the station had nothing to eat, and hastily bought a bottle of water on the last car. Kerry to make a detour to go Rongjiang, there are more than five hours by car, which will be for me a car for those who do not is a test, followed by the people on the bus to discuss and find the one with the driver side by side position. Surrounded mostly locals, said the local dialect, the language barrier, especially alone. Five-hour trip, I looked out the window, constantly watching, ever think, afraid to miss any of the scenery. Along the way through the Duyun, the three are all Walled. . . Aquarium in three people have seen, here is the aquarium populated, the villages along the mountain basket to do more than ring layout, aquarium people and Miao people in very different clothes, women's dress color aquarium relatively simple, mostly blue-black, Hair is very simple, only black, blue cloth wrapped, there is no Hmong people so much bright color, it seems a more conservative approach.
This trip is that the deepest feelings of a woman with a hard-working spirit. In the construction of the road along the woman's figure can be seen everywhere. Women lug burden to walk the edge of the back of the road has been deeply remain in my mind. Their average height at 1. 5-1. 55 meters, very rhythmically pushing on the pace of hip, waist swing in harmony with, so let me figure has been moved forward, and feel beautiful. In the Xijiang Miao Village, the construction of Lusheng field, pick stone, bricks are also mostly women.
Six in the evening, and finally to the Rongjiang county. Rongjiang is the birthplace of Dong Miao culture, where woodlands in the city there are 5 shaped like a canopy of big old banyan tree, several hundred years of wind and rain so far there are 40 trees at the survival, you have to admire the tenacity of nature, In contrast with them, people seem to be too short a life. Check-defense hotels, it is now late autumn, there is the room of mosquitoes. Washing is completed, ready to go out corruption and look at noon, has been hungry for a meal, and Defense Guest House in the county diagonally opposite, there are many eateries nearby. Into the "big sister, Yi Mui Yang deflated Pavilion", the boss to see me one person, no interest in my dead-Jin will come up, the boss said that certain elements of the pound to the meal, in order to leave no regrets, decided Kuang Chi 1 . Then seated, the waiter Duan Laiyi a Tingda's pot on the table, the following burning liquefied petroleum gas, the pot is the sheep deflated, in fact, Yang Du something inside, and all ingredients are red pepper, taste, tastes salty addition to that is hot. There is also a big tub of cooked rice, a pot of cabbage soup, a big desk that I sat a thin woman of the South. No wonder there are several guests through the wall to take Keiko probe into my head and Chou Chou. Tube, he does, I have only targeted to fill my stomach, a full night I ate three bowls of cooked rice.
Eaten head, and stays much and feel uncomfortable, and only the streets Liu Liu, and county governments are in the vicinity of roads, bad walk, living in a foreign land, inconvenience stroll too late, then back to hotel.
November 15th visit is to today's major treasures Dongzhai, Jae swing, Fengdeng. Early in the morning to the bus stop, haggling with the driver, package of a public light buses, 120.
First go to slaughter swing away from the county more than 30 KM, at the side of the road into a cul-de bifurcation. Shashi Lu, bumpy, narrow road, only allow one car before, along a 50-minute walk is not Jianyi Ren, heart some fear, if Yurenbushu, I am a woman, hands-free village of iron available to accompany life, and thought about a variety of possible waves of tingling, firmly holding the door handle, secretly pray God bless. The driver was not much, but it looks more honest, at the station or car when I observed several drivers, some of looking fat, flour and good choice for certain is my object, this driver is my own selected eyes should not take it, think about which I gradually ease up. He said that this way the drivers are generally unwilling to come, and if it rains, cars simply get into.
An hour later saw the villages, slaughtered swing into the car straight to open the drying village to court, immediately surrounded by several children up, looked at us with curiosity. I am busy out snacks, then I do not know from where they ran a bunch of kids, some kids still carrying a smaller child, it is so me surrounded the building, and they both stretched out a dirty little hands, Zhang was an expression so full of desire I have some bear, regret did not pack more years, when I want to give out his camera to photograph them, they all immediately ran away.
Continue to walk to the depths of stockade, a small stream in the village rather than a central walk through the women in the river, vegetables, washing, and a lot of bark house roof is done, I doubt Qingshi road in the Yangtze River, a small Bridge water people. Here, the house seems to be particularly old, locals dressed very old, and some may even say that ragged clothes than I imagined the poor even poorer, because most people are not educated, a lot of people know the Chinese language, to the exchange of very difficult, but people are more friendly, but an extra worry. I try to keep smiling, because the smile is the difference between them and the locals away from the best way, I do not want to disturb my arrival in their lives, because my arrival so that they found themselves ashamed of poverty and saw the old man's weather-beaten the face, I have the impulse to want to take pictures, but they hurt my eyes, I do not have the heart to flash in front of them at any time exposure, so that some cruel, I'm just passing through.
Longer follow-mile road through a culvert, to another village, the village is also said to be slaughtered swing, with almost seen previously, there is a good Drum Tower.
Jae-out swing to backtrack, walk 35 minutes down to the road in less than 2KM Department on to the Fengdeng, which is a local anti-poverty demonstration village, is also a Dongzhai, there is a beautiful Boasting more than slaughter finishes should be better (generally speaking, Dongzhai is indeed better than some dirty Miao people's living conditions seem to be worse some of them).
Return, approaching County 5KM lies in that chejiang Sambo Dongzhai, tickets 5 yuan slipped into a circle, nothing to see.
Rongjiang the trip is over, at noon aboard the car to Congjiang 1:40, 2.5 hours to arrive Congjiang county. Plan the next day went to Basha, on the bus station near the registration of the Blue Moon hotel accommodation. The time of registration, there is a driver asked me if I was going to come Basha, I said tomorrow, and so on. He said Basha when there are performances, because there are two foreigners go there. Soon as I heard about travel fatigue wiped, dropped luggage to the attendant, immediately chartered to the Basha. (Basha with the eight different two parts sand, by the way Rongjiang to Congjiang through the eight sand, but may be authorized by Basha Congjiang walk away from Congjiang county 7KM, in the mountains, a lot of data into eight sand with the Basha are confused that Basha in Rongjiang Congjiang way to the next, does not.) Basha Miao Village is fantastic, here still retain China's most ancient Hmong men's long hair braided pull on the beam head, Shen Pei muskets and waist knife, shaped like a samurai. Quanzhai to "roll" as the surname is said to Basha Miao ancestors are the vanguard when the great migration, so they still retain martial customs, guns not leave the body, known as "China's last one gunman tribe."
Drive too fast in less than 20 minutes to arrived Basha, to the Village where I saw two foreigners and guides the presence of a group of men and women dressed in national costume Basha the side, foreigners are holding photographic equipment, men's haircut in shooting Basha lens. Basha Miao advocating nature, worship a tree, so men from middle childhood onwards, leaving only a handful of shaved, swept up in a chicken button shapes, to adulthood on the amount of Le a linen. Unfortunately, come come up with, performing almost over, the only guy with the girl Basha photo. 2 foreigners is a well-known French magazine reporter, this time to film the documentary. 2 foreigners was very friendly, we have to do a simple exchange of each other, and then together with the small group Basha girl to dance, after the warm hospitality of Basha girl guy send us got on.
November 16 Today's trip is to Chao-hsing, the last leg of this trip, thus to turn Fujian Sanjiang to Guilin. Congjiang not have a car due to go directly to Chao-hsing, only first-Xiang Luo, and then from the Luo Xiang Jin Hatsuoki motorcycle ride. Car to Hatsuoki 8:40 am, bound for Hong Luo trek the entire route is in an extremely bumpy road, rolling along yellow sand, a half an hour after arriving Luo Xiang, down a car on the street looked around, but no motor cars, cruise around for a long time at the end of the street to see a step in the four motorcycles, according to pre-hello to talk about the price of 10 yuan price, drivers are unwilling to go, only to be 25 yuan to go, but unfortunately could not find a whole other cars on the streets of the had to on the. Hatsuoki opened the way to go, way to go is Shashi Lu Chao-hsing, bumps a lot and even the benches are impatient, firmly grasp the handrail, and thus Huangdao the zhaoxing, I got out when people have almost untenable , and whole body quickly fall to pieces.
In the small Hatsuoki town, carrying a large package, I drew the most attention, an older brother (guest houses, land and named the town cultural center owner), came to ask me whether or not to stay is a wooden building, about 15 yuan a good price night.
Chao-hsing formerly known as "Chao holes," Village are all within the land surname Dong, stockade where row upon row of hanging feet Road, Peking Opera Theater, Song Ping dotted Drum Tower, the stone road, cobblestone paths criss-cross. Hatsuoki Dongzhai of 5 Dongzhai Drum Tower Drum Tower is currently the most concentrated, the Drum Tower interior is full of fun Dong Jia, wing corner eaves side loaded with animal patterns, and narrative. Drum Tower, Huaqiao, Zhai Men are Hatsuoki Dongzhai a major feature of the Drum Tower and the 5 five huaqiao styles, along the river Diaojiaolou ceiling interlinked, and Boasting a contiguous, even on rainy days can be an But before, to lose, wet.
Walk in the town, there is a very short commercial street, filled with architectural style of local residents, a number of shop signs are in Chinese and English, feel a bit like Yangshuo, here is a place where being commercialized!
Do not intend to come to a bar - Haixiang bar, the name suggests this bar is a two over 30-year-old co-owner opened, one of Shanghai, one of Hunan, where they have to open some bars in Lijiang in Yunnan, but has now to Hatsuoki this place to Xanadu, do not have enough courage to difficult to do so.
A short nap at noon, immediately walk to the town 4KM away from the Norman village, I heard that there are two beautiful styling Drum Tower, but here is the most prestigious teacher-storey building, Beijing, the Chinese Garden, Shanghai and the Chinese people come from Grand View Park, Drum Tower Norman village, built-storey teacher's hands. In the case of an older brother took his son on the way is also prepared on the Norman village, he enthusiastically asked me to colleagues the way, beautiful scenery, there are red maple, as well as a Norman Pavilion, mountain about 40 minutes away to the Norman village, stockade surrounded walked, Drum Tower, the stage, the altar of these quasi-religious spirit of the place had everything to play an unspeakable force that these down so reproduction in remote villages.
More than four points back to town, walk away from the dinner time also went to the street cafes sit, speed is very slow, but it has been seen, but I have joined the first one Qiandongnan Internet cafes.
After dinner, wandered Haixiang bars, because today's Shanghai boss's wife came from Yunnan, the shop quite lively, the same gang of people playing mahjong. I chatted up with Shanghai boss, was also sitting next to a young local guy. Soon they came in twos and threes to a few villagers who drink a bit of wine with their standard Mandarin is not up to talk to us, I was the only tourists in town today, they are very curious about how could I have a woman running alone to be here. To listen to the boss said that the villagers here have been particularly enthusiastic, they opened a store a month ago, the villagers were all spontaneous firecrackers in the streets to celebrate for them. Villagers come again and again posed a few, are all sitting together, then use their Dong exchanges, has also been let us Never mind, they are not rude, is because they are afraid to speak in Mandarin, said less than three minutes, no word. How honest villagers!
9:30 I told them goodbye and return to residence, in the room, open the wooden windows, looking out the window, everything seems to be particularly quiet, month, Lang-Xing Shu, heart followed by a simple, beneath pure, in the gentle embrace of the night to sleep .
November 17
7:30 Sanjiang the direction of a plane bound for the car, 108KM (16 million), Hatsuoki to Sanjiang road is still difficult to go on the road cars were roaring in the melodies of yellow sand in the car all the way have been diverted in the mountains between the , ever be able to see the Drum Tower of the Dong Jia village. Large tracts of landscape in the window, do not mean in the current of her beauty, I also enjoy to enjoy nature's gift, in the beautiful scenery in the end of my trip to the southeast of Guizhou. 11:30 to Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County, Guangxi belong. 12:30 Take bus to Guilin, full 167KM, to four hours, today should be spent in the car. Car a Sanjiang, road conditions get better, and Guangxi, the driver is really extremely happy. 2.5 hours later arrived in Longsheng, Longsheng 1-off into two roads, traffic is even better, and color gradually rich and exceptionally comfortable mood.
Epilogue In the Southeast Guizhou travel six days, I have big-toting luggage, and walk in the ancient rich, charming charming Miao Dong Xiang, enjoying the nature of air and sunshine, never felt the joy and freedom. Kerry and surrounding areas with the most concentrated and most representative, along Rongjiang, from Jiang, Liping line can appreciate highly distinctive style of Dongxiang, although the road is difficult to go in some places even free bus, must go to Miao Dong Xiang Most rely on Rider or on foot, for backpackers is good about it, the more remote places, scenery and customs are preserved the more intact. Just a short trip through the past few days and can not make me a real in-depth understanding of their inner world, just as they do not understand, like us, I even have little opportunity and time to reach out to their daily lives, each other's living space is different from right they have different interpretations of life, but I'm just a stranger, a passer-by in life.
Single backpack of a woman walking alone, not made from the arduous journey that may occur is unsafe factors have deterred a lot of people difficult to understand, I think there is no more reason, except that it gave me a rich background in his life opportunities is a journey in my life can not be used to compare the wealth of money, so I go traveling enrich walk dedication.
Hopefully Drum Tower towering, covered bridges Yiyi, ancient mellow sweetness of folk customs, such as full-bodied wine, attracting more people who love the natural love of life to pursue this piece of beauty in heaven's land. Thank natural, thank God, thank all the way to a friend!
Author: helon_yu
