Some appear to calm the plan, in fact, provoked only a moment.
As this fall and Xinjiang to this date. Filled with the original one's faith is to a certain date, happened to see "Chinese National Geography" Kanas in Xinjiang region on the introduction. Substantial excess golden color pictures, a strong stimulus to the optic nerve me. Autumn of Kanas, has not yet met face to face, they are scared of Heaven.
Otherwise do not have to rigidly adhere to the season. Quiet Kanas, is makeup heaven's beauty, it is regrettable the image has been deeply beautiful dress in Xintian. In order to rush this fall, appointments, and I work at one of the busiest in the unit leadership issued an order to cancel the vacation time, with the initiative to request the Ku Rouji deduction of prize money and can not help but drop a few drops of crocodile tears, forced the leadership of overdraft leniency.
In the end, low-key to hit the road. The do not want to take over the tedious temporarily behind them and embarked towards the hearts of the golden country.
Desert hurry euphratica
The first two days, basically in the hurry to get somewhere.
Because by a bit too early, Kanas in early September, I am afraid, or a green. I would like to partner suggested that we first go to the west via the Korla Yining, and then north Burqin, hoping at least to catch up with Kanas leaves start to turn yellow.
High-speed travel from Urumqi, Korla, the way little to landscape. In addition to being Dabancheng wind power station, the routine should be down a few similar photos. And this well-known Billed as Asia's first wind power plant, in my opinion still not spectacular. Perhaps, 152 typhoons cars and more than 60,000 kilowatts of installed capacity, although adequate stirring, but the scenery is still not quite enough as the momentum, especially in Xinjiang, a vast background. And I shot exactly where some of the windmill stopped turning, and some even missing an arm, looks are not flawless.
The same well-known Dabancheng, we did not go in, only by a number of low brick road made some superficial imagination. It is said that Dabancheng fact it was just strung a street fair on both sides of a small bungalow just do not know where there is no girl named Kambarhan do?
On the road through the Bosten Lake, wanted to go, but ticketing problems resulted in some unpleasant, so gallop all the way to near Korla are only a few kilometers, one called "Lotus Lake" place. Here is a small Bosten Lake in western series of interlinked lakes, Kongquehe sources. Scenic entrance, hung a banner, I can not remember incomplete, and the effect that "people of Xinjiang Tour Bavaria, Bavaria who visit Lotus Lake", a very interesting large vernacular.
As the name suggests, there should be a lot of Lotus Lake Lotus, but the season does not, we do not see LT scenery, but added to see the large roots has become a golden reed, in the setting sun flashed a glossy. The sky is the evening, we did not ship out only in the boat at the entrance to a few hastily photographed phase, angle constraints, more distant magnificent reed, can only rely on imagination to fill the.
This is the first day of hurry to get somewhere. Road is very bumpy, old丰田越野车is aggravated by the bumps. Although Urumqi out there is a high-speed, but most of the time we are in the yellow sand billowing sidewalk right on the left shaking Akira, Shangcuanxiatiao. I originally volunteered to sit next to the driver on the grounds that he was asleep and the driver so to speak. But the end of the day, which had long been Ciqiong, hand, secretly played a number of sleepy.
When the lanterns, and finally arrived in Korla.
The next day went to Kuqa, the way around to the round of Taiwan to see Populus euphratica. Similarly, the relationship between the season it, Populus euphratica Forest Park, P. euphratica to us feel that it is full of cover Chensha, dirty. Should wait for another month, Populus have become golden yellow, and only showing the kind of spectacular.
But the road passes through small piece of Populus euphratica is to give people surprise. The long of the short plants in the desert, through the years may not be short. Euphratica "born alive a thousand years, death being overthrown in a thousand years, but never broken down a thousand years," they looked not as good as pine and cypress Qiu Jin, less graceful willows, nor the common northern birch tall and straight like the straight, but the natural vicissitudes of a deep-rooted appearance, unique.
The green leaves with P. euphratica, and the Christians I have been hoarse all branches of Populus euphratica intake of the lens and found that the former like a bonsai, the latter, such as Root.
I actually prefer the growth of Populus euphratica in the environment here - I is defined as "a kind of" desert. Sparse, scattered, and the foot is a large expanse of sand or a few Peng hay, very few minutes the flavor of Africa's woodland grasslands. In fact, we have come half a day in the desert highway, saw a different desert landscapes better. Some are large tracts of sand outlines bending arc is a common picture of the classic desert landscape; some are rough texture like an ordinary hard-frozen ground, accompanied by wind, rain washed or wheel Yaguo of bumps and hollows; sand, the vegetation is generally sparse, except for that one special eye-candy of Populus euphratica, is that some small shrub or a cluster of a cluster of grass-pont, there are many places, just grass.
On this day, although it has also hurry, but the scenery on the road finally starting to entice the eye.
The afternoon, arrived in Kuqa.
Subas Changping still happy
Settled accommodation, take advantage of the sun not yet down, we drove northeast corner of Subas Kuqa Buddhist temple ruins. Collapsed buildings bathed in the brilliant sunset, not conceal the traces of history and the vicissitudes of the atmosphere. I have made a deep breath, I heard a companion said: "This is a decent attraction."
Immediate Subas, falls under the jurisdiction of soil building sites, including pagodas, palaces, shag, cave. If it is not residual Nipi plug the brand, the light from the outside, I am resolved not even pull out. With just a feeling, captured two images. Resembling a camel is a wall Canqiang, one is that the pyramid shape of the Inca empire, pagoda ruins. Climb the tower, but also see a small platform, as well as two connected caves, or the shag of the past.
We visited the West Temple, standing on the platform can be the distance of the East Temple. Ancient records from east to west two Buddhist temples, are name "Chao presume PCT", across the river from. Although it is now dried up river into the shallow stream, but it also built a diffuse large tracts of land, is said to walk in the past, but also three hours.
This place tourists scarce, but we are not the only visitors. One reading "Xinjiang Television Station," the word of photography car in pagoda, the working staff are instrument the lifting bracket. A little far away from the crowd, a small slope on a very long queue, dressed in ordinary clothes blue grid girl, back towards us, towards Zhao presume determining the direction of the East Temple, quietly sat a long time.
She was like a lone person, seemed to enjoy the quiet serenity. TV trucks and our emergence, perhaps she is a kind of annoy?
Loaded with this feeling that out, companion says, no, she has their minds.
Case? A sad person? We are down the pagoda carefully around from behind her, did not want to bother her.
Quite unexpectedly, the girl told us was welcome in the ranks. She voices softly, the tone is very flat, but one then to let a room we do not digest.
She told Jean Changping.
The name, before I end travel back to Guangzhou, the way through the online ordering buy her book, written by "West out of Yang Guan - me and Xinjiang, seven appointments," only after becoming three-dimensional up.
As the pages of a 1 to turn the past, this in my photos gently Min Zhaozui Sixiaofeixiao woman, became the journey of Xinjiang in a rainbow, do not intend to encounter, to see these at a glance.
Most of our people, no matter how grand it gives to the name of tourism at best be only a pastime, after all, and few people can do as she does, once again alone, walking in the ancient Silk Road, in the Lop Nor and the Elang Dance, in the broad river between the arbitrary wandered off his yellow sand.
Away from her, as we have every day from nine to five, work work then it is reasonable. When she Subas we recommend her to this book, his tone was so indifferent, neither flaunt nor embarrassed.
This is her life, and also the work of ways. We thought she was an independent outsider, in fact, she is to write commentary to that crew. They are ready to shoot a presentation of Xinjiang-style series, had just shot a few points, but all the work is expected to spend 8-12 months to complete.
We are also guest appearances by an actor accidentally. In that beard at the mercy of the director, the line-up in single file onto the slope, facing the sunset in the ruins of the pagoda for overlooking meditation-like. NG twice, each time Yi Bai pose, yet Changping to call me names, saying: "Why are you so serious ah?" I have enough to create misunderstandings, had asked: "director, what should I face?"
In fact, no need to control what the expression, because the director does not give us great close-up. Think there's still clamored to Changping, a kind of lone person used to the lack of enthusiasm.
Freelander career seem to be more highlights to her delicate and strong feelings.
I still do not understand why she would take the initiative and speak to us, perhaps we have heard a smattering of knowledge of the discussions, can not help but to correct our understanding of this land? She finished a self-introduction, immediately said: "You are behind the mountain, called it Le Tage Hill. I have heard some people say you Tianshan, which is wrong."
From her mouth, know that there might be a Buddhist "bird from the land," will be the 3rd century there was a Buddhist temple here, and after the 10th century but eventually lost to the invasion of Islam.
To leave, yet Changping has send us to the entrance ticket. Waved goodbye when I look at her, and suddenly found that she looks a bit like a memory of a friend, a very high Xin-Zhi girl, bent on their own town to get rid of captivity, and finally to seize a chance to go to England training, from run to effort, do not look back.
Write here, yet the book still in my desk in Changping and off have not yet read. On behalf of the sequence where a woman editor quoted her words, made me impressed.
"I'm very happy, I always consider themselves very happy. Want to go where I go, I do want to do."
Editor lady surprised: Happiness - The average person should weigh the words over and over again, how she so easily out of the mouth?
Here, I can see some Cuxia to think: Apart from surprise, is not that some jealous then?
Kizil Thousand-Buddha Grottoes Beacon
Kuqa formerly Kucha kingdom, history, expansion of people's imagination, so in terms of tree-lined paths through the evening, or one by one in the morning to follow the alien's face that we want to go to the mosque to find, I think this place quite a strange attraction and would like to melt into, and yet know absolutely did not fit in, wonderful feeling.
Chu Liaocheng, away from human habitation, but people relieved. Grand vision began to rise, a vast ecological system of the earth, sometimes there is uplift of the sand dunes and Jadin group. Hovering between the Hill Road car, the driver sensational highland songs, I seem to have returned to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
On the road there is a landscape, a large piece of brown soil Hill, texture clear, be tilted in one direction, inserted in a roadside sign, indicating the names of sites known as "the Potala Palace."
Perfect mountain climbing a total of four, three had set foot in Tibet, the same conclusion is not the Potala Palace.
I like the way Yardang Landform another group of "pyramid", the scale is not small, and there are several Jadin platform like the pyramids of Egypt. This place, vaguely evoke my memories of the forest soil on the Zanda.
Close to noon, arriving Kizil Caves. This is one of China's four cave and is the earliest age. But also because of this bar, most of the statues and murals have been peeling off lost - at least in an open valley to our West, the complete and colorful murals and statues have nothing left, better left empty cave full of scratches earth walls, there are some remnants of portraits of the local - I always worry about the rest would soon be buried in the sand of history.
Thousand-Buddha statue surrounded by a Kumarajiva, modern works, had become a tourist taking pictures to commemorate the only point.
The impression that this place is far better than the Dunhuang Grottoes, Yungang known, is not with the fast decline of Buddhism in the Western Regions, and in the Central Plains had its peak so far about it? Cause these exquisite works of art can not be long-term preservation, in addition to the destruction of natural forces must take human greed - in a cave, we saw the wall full of statues, uniform neatly Fuzuo with, strangely enough, the left half of all the Buddha statues are peeling off the cassock. Puzzling: Could it be this part of the cassock is painted with special paint, which paint they are particularly vulnerable to weathering or volatile?
Asked tour guides, return for the faint four-character: "That is gold."
Understood why.
Plastic金身ancient Buddha statues, that is a kind of devout belief, at that time could not imagine that future generations have eyes only for gold, no Buddha, right?
Because I do not know to appreciate, so in the eyes of the Kizil Thousand-Buddha Grottoes somewhat dilapidated, but experts have pointed out its special value, enough to Bimei Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The other, whether alone, the so-called Kucha artistic style, it should be, and later in other parts of the cave has been excavated distinguished. The guide Enlightenment from, I have seen in a cave the zenith of the sun god's unique portraits - who pulled the car wheels with the gods, in addition withstand a lap behind the image of the halo compared with the Buddha is similar, seems there is no reason that the Chinese deities appear in the world, on the contrary, indeed a bit like the Western mythology, the sun god - I would like to tour guides should not make irresponsible remarks here, when the exchange with the West, here to what extent, really worth studying.
Plan is to see Central Plains Kizil Ga Ha beacon, but no one including the driver know the way, so after visiting the Kizil Thousand-Buddha Caves, too early to take advantage of the weather, all the way back in time - beacon should be closer than the Thousand-Buddha Grottoes in Kuqa, a city should have to go.
Peer took out travel guides, find what you want: "After a graveyard ... ..."
Napian out of town soon to see when we are neglecting the cemetery, after which the land in Xinjiang see a lot of graves, I began to have the basic concepts of the Islamic cemetery. Is actually a Lilliputian version of the village - the Han tomb is a bun-shaped land package, Islam is much more realistic, a tiny four-seat walls, pay attention to points of carved patterns, a look is a typical Uighur residential model. Also the tomb covers an area of some larger, more elegant materials, exterior painted white, and some even in the "residential" still stands next to a miniature version of the mosque, the tomb where the owner, I believe that net worth is relatively abundant.
We finally found a beacon tower, seen from afar is just one stood alone on the ground, the soil columns, approached and we have to find that it is still tall enough to stirring. This is a Han Feng Sui - the night of ignition for Feng, release smoke during the day as a flint. Trapezoid Feng Sui, there are more than 10 meters high and well-preserved. Rammed earth structure, seemingly sealed, but still relatively high place in the woodshed and exposed some signs of the window.
Surrounded by deep valleys, rolling hills, large tracts of white sand, boundless the end. Such an environment, easy to muster during the day to relax, enough to deepen the bitter lonely night. Or here for thousands of years the landscape has greatly changed it, otherwise the soldiers stationed here, then how they could survive the bitter cold and loneliness?
Tianshan Grand Canyon Overnight Long Pool
Afternoon, the vision appeared in front of the color red mountain, that we are close to the Grand Canyon of the.
Way line, this is the first one we are ecstatic attractions. Heavy Luan peaks, steep cliffs, mountains are all strongly exaggerated, reddish-brown, rugged steep, straight into the sky. On several occasions, I am trying Dundao minimum, the lens onto the farthest, is still not able to complete a vertical cliff into the frame.
This is the Kuqa Tianshan Mountains Grand Canyon. I had thought of this Zhuyi Ye, but since the meeting coincided with a mission, all the rooms are full. Can only continue to forward their progress, and can only take half of the Grand Canyon.
Into the Gorge, cool quickly replaced the hot. Is not the rainy season, Valley Falls, has been drying up, but many of the lot is covered with a layer of shallow water, wet sand, stepped on the foot of a kind of special texture. In fact, most of the canyon the road is not difficult to go, relatively flat, spacious place, enough to accommodate a Tuodui calmly through - on both sides of a towering cliff, circuitous front Tuoling Sheng faint sound - I've been in fantasy of a mysterious adventure movie clips of the theme.
But there are also advantageous where the need hands and feet to climb in the past. There are some small corridor, people go to have one husband when drilling off 10000 Fumo open trend. I am most excited is a piece of hanging on the iron chain attached to the cliff, looking not very long, also 10 to 20 meters look like it, leading to the grotto Ayi - knowing that the other side there are steps you can easily reach, I still insisted on this iron chain to climb. His companions expressed concern, because I wore slippers, or high-heeled kind.
But I still take the lead climbing, and very successfully reach the peak. His companions also went up, we were into the caves Ayi. A lot of things inside the cave has been removed, but the wall is still left a lot of portraits. The expression of these statues are very peaceful, apart from I do not see more of Daodao.
The caves in the cliff's not large, only about 67 square meters. The staff said it was the latter cave rooms, expert analysis, the former chamber has collapsed as torrential attacks, and this has led to the now the cliff.
In 1999, a young Uighur who Ayi herbs are the Grand Canyon looking for herbal medicines, all of a sudden it began to rain, boy climbed diagonally opposite the cliff to escape, but saw a golden light from our place in the location of injection to. You look closely, heavy rain washed out of the rocks, cliff actually exposing a hole. Young man rock climbing stunts displaying immediately, came to San Liangxia hole - shocked the world of Ayi caves have been discovered this way, but also by chance it, otherwise, this cave and its only the first half-length, like a number of years after the annihilation in the erosion under flood, and never known around the world - who knows what the Grand Canyon where the number of caves like dying!
Ayi said first golden Buddha inside the cave took Silver Bears in the house, after a period of time after they were handed over to the government - did not know there has not been Ayi fierce ideological struggle, anyway now he has become a legendary figure. If nothing else, said he had bare hands in the rain just to daydream of vigorous climbing posture, enough people to envy - and I finally know why we have just come where there is a iron chain, the original A Yi is coming from there to climb with bare hands - No iron chain was a natural!
And I was very smug when climbing iron chain play a hero-like, the next two are the rigidity of the leg is.
Evening, Kankan rushed to the roadside a private hostels.
The owner or the Uighurs or Kazakhs, the language barrier that, with the help of gestures, or simply solve the problem of eating and living. Very hasty. Dim lighting, simple wooden bed, a sudden drop in temperature, as well as braving the cold wind brushing outdoors on a cold water wash the feeling reminds me of Tibet, I think of Everest. Buy a new headlamp came in handy, and my heart there is a strange feeling enlightened.
This is the worst condition of accommodation along the way, sleeping bags rolled out the first time. Bring simple discomfort, so we got up early the next day a rare, launching the Sheung.
Can be such a place right I always have a special kind. Shen is a very dark night, but people sleep free from anxiety. Asleep, I could clearly hear the joyful sound of song and dance.
The master has distinguished friends, and what are the grand celebration thing, or is that basically they have usually ended with song and laughter every day of it?
First, find some noisy, slowly ears to listen. When the sound gradually dissipated, I was actually vaguely something missing.
This place, not far from the size of the Longchi. Since the early dawn the next day, we went to a car the color of the green side of a large lake, it is a big long tri.
Bayinbuluke narat
Bayinbuluke was my plan the second focus, select the same reason it is very emotional: This recited the refrain's name gave me a sense of beauty. Introduction of the Swan Lake is also charmed me a long time, although this season, I know how much luck to see the Swan.
Bayinbuluke the grass has yellow, relatively short, but large tracts of grasslands, scattered like pearls on a white sheep on their pastures, combined with distant snow-capped mountains under the blue sky, or give a very atmospheric, very cheerful感觉. Here, let me remind Hulunbeier Inner Mongolia, far from the western highlands days a fatal temptation for me about that from that journey began.
The car in the limitless expanse of grassland on the Mercedes-Benz has once again proved the old saying prairie there is no road, the driver was also asked us whether or not to drive laugh. Embarked on a long grassy slopes was shocked to see the front of a picturesque landscape: thin blue rivers, is stretched around the curved around to the distant. This is the 9 18 Bay, and open both river sources.
Swan Lake should be a large swamp lake bar, or on the side, or viewing the whole situation. Along the way, I am very clear on the prairie and the visual distance is by no means be easy to get to, and according to plan today we went to narat, and is now noon, even if has come to Swan Lake, it is impossible to see to the Swan.
So with a little sorry to leave. However, the grass has been discolored Bayanbulak grasslands, it's still a very beautiful part of the journey. And from here, along the scenery better and better.
With the golden Bayinbuluke different narat grass color is still quite green, but grass is also relatively long. Pilates Bayinbuluke go there from the way we can see the terrain change. The former is flat prairie, boundless Yimapingchuan the end of the latter there is a mountain tree structured alpine pastures. Silhouetted against the blue sky with white clouds green grass of the hillside, neat upright, patchwork of coniferous forest, temperate latitudes remind me here. Bright and pure colors, people relaxed and happy. Of a fairy-tale beauty, reminds me of the Honghuaerji Hulunbeier.
We narat National Forest Park, which to stay. In addition to the viewing platform into the mountains to see the sunset - I think that looking at enough of that large areas of alpine meadows - we are the only entertainment here is the riding. Although I started cold from the Kuqa to have reached the limit here, and even a brief ringing in the ears, but how can we not come to steppe riding it?
In fact, I would not ride a little. Had plenty of theories, but it can not be applied in practice.
On horseback, slowly and kept beating about the bush. Bad luck, ride a horse does not obey the nag - I learned from it that mouthful of teeth to determine its age is not small - and always refused to go, and always want grazing, to the last in my strong Pull hard Yexia even want to come back to bite my feet? In fact, nag do not know, if it is willing to run up and I will be more afraid of - I always clip not live horse stomach, there is always a kind of feeling to be left out of the down.
Admire grassland, but the total can not learn horse riding, the heart is always some bitterly.
Horse riding is addictive, right? Accompanied by two GG, the next day characterization spent half a day to go riding.
And then left narat of. Because the road of reason, the car bumps for a long time to walk on the riverbed, the river bed covered with large, round stones, and accompanied by scattered the spray, a great test of a driver's skill and our endurance.
Some of the valley is kunas. Since then, the road all the way to Yining, the landscape pure and simple, white birch lined tree-lined road, watermelons spread under the tree - trip to patronize our trip a lot, thick corn, the typical scenery of the North.
Prefer the sunflower visible way, the vast expanses of golden yellow sunflowers, and when seen are amazing visual feast - a phase as evidence, I have taken quite a sunflower to a photo, the color is extremely bright and After washing out the effect of the kind of stunning, complete no less than the Autumn Kanas.
Yining Sailimu Lake Mid-Autumn Festival
To Da Yining coincides with dusk. To the Ili River Bridge to see the sunset and the wedding, just in time.
Come before heard of, Yining's Uighur wedding is usually held on the Ili River bridge. The driver told us that time is usually in the evening. We are lucky to see a row of three pairs. I have some concerns about the start, only dare quietly photographed. Gradually feel that they are very friendly, and some already used to the curiosity of tourists, and the courage to please friends and family in a messenger, hoping matter sorted out beautiful bridesmaid photo. Not only very smoothly, and the bride and bridesmaids all together the video, one of their relatives and friends also encouraged me to go and groom photo, but I am really sorry - the language barrier, I can not see from the bride's face restrained her face .
Turned again to see some adults, get together with a group of children to the camera. Among a small boy, both hands and a bunch of flowers, the upper and lower body dressing up like a little prince in ancient. They are obviously nothing to do with the wedding ceremony, it seems that what activities to celebrate. Kanleyihui puzzled but to passers-phase exercise, the answer was that the "circumcision."
Oh, I almost forgot the beliefs and customs of the Uygur. Quickly pushed children in front of a few carefully photographed phase. Next to the grown-ups are not blocked, but he happily called the children look into the camera, obviously proud of it as a happy event. I carefully look at the front of a small actor, this Yuemo 67-year-old boy, Meiqingmuxiu, the body line of the set of the first led to his grand look outstanding. He was obedient to the command of mobile line of sight as adults, but did not always reveal a trace of a smile, I even think his eyes are some of melancholy. A melancholy little prince, I do not know if he knows himself to be carried out it is a kind of ritual?
Yining, a city of western Xinjiang, the capital of Yili Kazak Autonomous Prefecture. But apart from resolved at the night market for dinner, and we have no more than stroll in the city. The evening before going to sleep, I could hear the singing and dancing outside the hotel there are outdoor activities, may be exactly the Mid-Autumn Festival owes something. On this day I also received cell phone text messages sent by his father: "the moon and Shoen, Fan Zheng Yutian children. Grape taste is not enough, Tianshan may linger?"
Count, I have never at home for 13 consecutive years before the Mid-Autumn Festival. Next year's Mid-Autumn Festival, I would have gone wrong?
The next day went to the Huiyuan first bell tower, the Qing government to review the army generals Ili important place. Horgos port to go there, and the Kazakhstan border trade zone transfer. Both are just routine visits only, did not give me a very memorable impression. Port reminds me of Manchuria, East and West while dazzling, but can not afford to hook my desire to purchase. However, Hui Ancient House in a video store in order to broadcast over loudspeakers in Xinjiang folk songs, both lyrical again to rock with a rapid pace, but added so that we hear Xuemobizhang. Companions flew into the store and bought some tape, and put in the car to listen to, and I returned to Urumqi, the Book Center has also made a special trip to buy this "desert songs" in CD.
The so-called "such as paintings Bank" in guozigou, perhaps not quite the season's sake, did not seem to the legendary beauty of variety. In addition to a lush forest Huashugou watching, outside a little bit, basically on both sides of the mountain roads are relatively thin and barren. However, before he came here have been mentally prepared, it is not very disappointed. Guozigou are sold along the way where the natural honey, can help imagine the scene in summer here, and flowers and fresh grass.
Wear clothing with full 28 kilometers of the guozigou on is the Sailimu Lake. Like all seen the plateau lakes, endless blue lake, Hao-miao beneath pure fascinated me. Because the scenery in front of some of the poor brought about by fatigue, when also stimulated by the beauty swept away.
Sailimu Lake quite a number of mystery, is said to have been unable to confirm how many meters the deepest lake and the lake has never been a natural growth of fish, of course, is now spent a considerable effort, except the success of artificial breeding.
These I do not care, snow-capped mountains and lakes scenery is enough for me. Unfortunately, bad weather in the afternoon when they arrive or the genial sunshine, as we hastily took a bath, the sky suddenly became overcast, and the wind blew. Looked out the window, went so far as to see a yurt was wind knocked over the top! The weather did not improve until after nightfall, originally hoping Sailimu Lake River to enjoy the romance of the eighth lunar month Shiliu Yue-liang Unfortunately, only time keeping us filled the clouds and the Qin-bone wind. Night time, but also it began to rain came.
Our driver is an absolute optimist, one minute saying Sailimu Lake this time of little rain, a moment that windy evening that it would not rain, they also say that at night it rained the next day will not come - the truth do not know how would he find these inexplicable meteorological theory, but looking forward to the next day clear up the enthusiasm, but it is quite infected me, because it was originally supposed to be riding well into the next morning to see the distance Swan, the weather if you do not, and this plan may be aborted.
The next day I almost gave up, 5:00 is still wet, the Pilipala not live to play my heart sank. Her colleagues, and nothing happened, I am resigning to fate lying in bed - this kind of weather, had to look at the Swan bar in a dream.
But almost 8:00 Shique heard the knock on the door, GG decided to ride to see the sunrise. In fact, this time the sun will rise too Lao Gao, and Bale is just hiding behind the clouds. But since some action, I will do Shuran come to a spiritual. With the fastest speed quickly dressed shoes, ride horses hit the road.
Sun hidden behind clouds, however, the natural Xiuse Sailimu Lake is still fresh after the rain can not stop through the dissemination of them. Workaday are green pastures, sheep stud embellishment where the air is full of wet grass flavor. Looming dawn shone on the lake, wander points of light sparkling Watermark shuttle back and forth, only a pity that inadequate lighting of the camera and not so delicate.
Rare today, a very gentle ride up a small black horse, a little touch of the rope will know what I mean. Saddle position is also placed just right, the first time I am riding can be very comfortable, even when not at the trot is very afraid.
Only the long distance than we thought, and today has also come out too late, to 10 am, and there are companions to introduce the back. But it has not troubled to see the swans in Bayinbuluke me, had long been "Swan," the word to stimulate the nerves, lead the way of the horse owner has repeatedly promised "in front", so my stubborn Jin up, please horse owner with me, ride horse called "tigers" in the first Malaysian High - in order to save time, I decided to race with the strength of these horses running to the front swans are said to have a place, which of course require horse owners to policy-chi.
Two-pronged, first go back and check out two companions to take luggage, I and another companion continued toward the swans land.
"Tigers" turned out an extraordinary, you must carefully pulled the rope, otherwise it is a run up on the slippery slope. I soon found myself a bit naive, the original when the rider and the "ride-off" is the same difficulty - "tigers" in the master maneuvering under control, I am appalled at the top, she felt being thrown out soon gone. The owner told me to pay close attention to bridle, without fear, things have been so far, I only teeth, suffering from "clouds" in torment - in fact my body despite the forward was almost kissing horse's mane, and still can not withstand gallop of the momentum, almost the whole person to fly across the horse-like.
Soon I was no longer slippery grasp of palm unstable bridle, horse can not be allowed to run up. Return the way, most of the time could only slowly. Fortunately, finally saw the elegant swan habitat in the water's edge, the wings to fly, and finally there is no impulse to a return to white. Although the impulse to this, we put a mistake when the price for it. Although the driver has been working in a hurry, but the weather is bad, and leave the Sailimu Lake after the rain there came up, there is a road or heavy fog filled the air, even the roads are almost invisible. We spent a full 78 hours before the rain, the mud has completed 300 kilometers, until it completely dark days before we arrived Kuytun to stay.
Mo Guicheng Hauni Burqin
From the Kuitun to Karamay, both road conditions and weather are getting better, bring up people's mood up. Karamay city is small, neat and clean. The outer city, roads are lined with the work of wells, the scene is very impressive - feeling more than a windmill in Dabancheng viewability.
From the north Burqin Karamay is definitely going to go take a look at the Mogui Cheng. In fact, only one more representative Yardang Landform, known earlier. 50 square kilometers of land stands the large and small, jagged shale castle, mixed scattered, grotesque, both a towering and strange, visual effects, really good.不过之所以叫“魔鬼城”，主要还是因为起风时气流穿梭在怪岩沙土间，天昏地暗飞沙走石的时候，更伴着鬼哭狼嚎般凄厉怪声的缘故吧。我们在阳光灿烂的大白天穿行其间，无法验证这种恐怖，不过这里又叫“乌禾尔风城”，因风得名应该无可置疑。
这个地方已成新疆著名景点，自然少不了圈起来收门票。只是门票上面印有几行“游客须知”的小字，细读之下哑然失笑——其中一条曰：“不随意践踏草坪、采折花草树木。”
黄沙万里，寸草不生的地方，哪来草坪和花木可供破坏？
这样的警示，似直接从城市公园或森林旅游区的门票移植而来。若用在哈纳斯景区，或还勉强说得过去。
哈纳斯已经不远，我们正在向布尔津进发——对旅行的人来说，到达布尔津就等于一只脚踏进哈纳斯了。下午，快到布尔津的时候，我们看到了彩虹。远处的雪山顶上，笼罩着一层乌云，而在乌云下面，凌空升起一座七彩拱桥。彩虹代表雨过天晴，在旅途中，无疑是一种好兆头，能够带来好心情。
而且不仅仅是一条那么简单，旁边还有一座并列的拱桥，也是七种颜色，虽然稍稍淡一点，仍然非常清晰。仔细看去，发现这七种颜色的排列顺序恰好与那条虹相反，也就是说这条是副虹了，也有专门的名字，叫霓。
应该是很不错的运气吧，印象中，我还没有见过虹霓并列的情形。
傍晚时分，到达布尔津。这个听起来很有异国情调的名字，想象中是一个有着北欧风格的小镇，作为前往哈纳斯必经的前哨，过去总给我一种遥远神秘的感觉。
现在很真实地踏上了这块土地，才发现这只是一个很普通的边陲小镇。虽然街上确有一些红顶白墙的欧式建筑，但总体上还是很中国、很平民的一种面貌。街上的建筑似乎大部分是旅馆，行人也似乎大部分是游人。
或者这也是布尔津的价值所在吧。从四面八方涌过来的人，向往哈纳斯的人，也确实需要这样一个小城，落脚歇息，表达一下，交换一下心中的激情。我们发现同一家旅馆里两拨游人的服装似乎是一式的，无意中促使这原本是同事的两伙游客有了异乡不期而遇的兴奋，直至吃晚饭时，当中一位女孩特地跑过来道谢之余，还不停打听我们一般上什么网，网名为何——大有再在异乡与网友相认之势。
我们的晚饭是在河堤夜市进行的。这是一条不长的街道，食品种类也相当稀少，然而来自各方的游人都聚集过来了，气氛相当热烈。我意外地发现自己一直被感冒抑制住的胃口出奇地好，不仅大快朵颐，烤鱼吃了一条又一条，酸奶喝了一碗又一碗，连带桌上摆着的俄罗斯啤酒我也毫不客气地尝了——甜甜的味道，有点像在内蒙古把我醉倒的“爽口”。
按照同伴在网上得来的资料，我们选择了一家名叫“小白鹿”的俄罗斯风情家庭旅馆。有着红色尖顶的房子，外形就像一座小别墅，小小的庭院里开满色彩鲜艳的花朵。主人夫妇说的是汉语，但面孔显示了他们的俄罗斯血统，而他们的儿子，一个高高瘦瘦的年轻人，更被同行的MM评为俄罗斯美男子。
入夜，枕着绣花的方形大枕头——这也是俄罗斯风格么？ ——同行的MM大约来了感触，说了一句：“这里让我有长住的感觉。”
家庭旅馆的魅力吧。而我有些困惑——长住的地方，叫做家吧？我却不大明白，什么地方更吸引？是我循了梦的指引，千里万里追寻而至的前方的美景，还是现在已在遥远他方的，我生长栖息的那块土地？
金色的哈纳斯·图瓦人家·羊群与驼队·璀璨星空
一阕华美的乐章快到华彩段的时候，往往是有预兆的。离开布尔津不久，视野中天地越发广阔起来，雪山在远处时隐时现，平坦的草原和起伏的高山谷地相间，草原竟是一种奇异的红色，山谷中林木葱茏如烟，谷地里散落着一群群牛羊。仿佛闯进了世外田园，景色的壮美让人只有屏住呼吸的份儿。
我们正在进入哈纳斯——路边越来越浓密的树林揭示了这一点。有桦树，有松树，层层叠叠，沿着四周的峰峦蔓延而下。好些叶子开始呈现黄色了，我很庆幸当初先往西行的决策正确。
穿过哈纳斯前往白哈巴，一路经过卧龙湾、月亮湾、神仙湾，每一处都是谋杀胶卷的地方。卧龙湾四周都是高大的桦树，叶子已经变成鲜艳的红色黄色，碧绿的湖水在密林围绕中，宛如一块沉静的美玉。湖中的小岛满覆茵茵绿草，加上半黄半绿的桦树，以及一丛丛灰紫色的小灌木，这个形状特别的小岛宛然便是一条披了鳞甲的青龙，气度很是雍容。
月亮湾的特征很明显，反S形的河流，犹如一条明亮的蓝色缎带，蜿蜒穿过繁坡密林。夹岸是层层桦林，树梢开始泛黄，极目望去，一大片斑斑驳驳的黄色绿色，既有水墨的清逸，又有油画的质感。
神仙湾也是一色的碧蓝，它的特色是湖边有一片小草地，感觉上更像一个小牧场。
哈纳斯的水色既清且美，可与九寨沟相比，而且据说是随天气和季节变化的，但这大约需要长期的观察了。这里的水域不像九寨沟那样丰富，除了三“湾”之外，一路看到的只有初进哈纳斯时路边那条清浅的小溪。我怀疑那就是额尔齐斯河，我国唯一一条流入北冰洋的河流。
当然这时还没看到哈纳斯湖，那可以说是哈纳斯的中心和灵魂。但即使后来看到了，感觉上，浩淼的哈纳斯湖还是没有九寨海子那种小家碧玉的魅力：小巧玲珑的体态加上五色彩妆的光采。
哈纳斯是林区，在我眼里，她最大的魅力还是山色，而不是水色。蓝天下耸峙的雪峰、起伏的山峦、无边的密林、明丽的湖溪，哈纳斯是一众湖光山色的总和，而金秋增加了色彩的丰富层次，无疑要为她加分——我再次庆幸我选对了时间。
骤然直面哈纳斯，已经为之心醉。而从哈纳斯到白哈巴的30公里路上，我更是一次次被无与伦比的景致击倒，心底的激动无以复加。
离开哈纳斯游览区，很快进入广阔的草场。发黄的草根，映着很蓝很蓝的天。路旁的山沟长满那种灰紫色的灌木，一眼望去烟树凄迷。路上不时有零落的木楞房子，那是图瓦人的住家。
我们在两座孤零零的房子前停下来。两间木楞房，一间尖顶，稍高，两个图瓦女人正在屋前洗衣。另一间房子比较低矮，是平顶的，确切地说，是圆拱形的屋顶，铺了一层厚厚的泥土，长着一层草，几乎和屋子的高度一般长。我想这大概是草料房吧，也没仔细留意，就拍起远处的雪山来。
忽然听到身后有孩子的笑声，回头一看，“草料房”窄小的门里，竟然出现了好几个孩子。
原来这也是住家。弯身跨进屋子，里面另有乾坤，可以直起身子，床铺被褥也一应俱全。窗台边堆着一堆松子，孩子们正在剥松子壳。红红的小脸，亮晶晶的眼睛，烂漫的笑容一下子就把人的心熔化掉了。我掏出了巧克力，却踌躇着，只剩两颗怎么分配？
却见那比较大的孩子豪不犹豫地将巧克力掰开，分给了更小的孩子。
太阳吹散了头顶的乌云，我们继续上路。阳光下的木楞房子和图瓦孩子的笑容，一直在我心里萦绕不去。我希望不会有太多人来打扰他们，可是又很难说清，我是否希望他们一直生活在这个似乎与世无争的国度里。
不知不觉已经上了山间小路。我们的前后左右，不知何时冒出来大群大群的羊，白色的褐色的黑色的，山羊绵羊黑脖子羊，还有应是此地特产的阿尔泰大尾巴羊。每一群至少都有几百上千只，而群与群之间的间隔有时只有十来米。数目之多，间隔之密，是我们从未见过的，实在令人瞠目结舌。它们和我们的行进方向是一样的，不但完全充塞了整个路面，还蔓延至路边的山沟和山脊。开始时司机还使劲按喇叭，但没什么效果，大概“羊多势众”，而且此处只有这么一条山路，“山高皇帝远”，羊儿们也不再惧怕车和人了。
于是我们只好当上“牧羊车”，安然地跟在羊群后面——同时后面也有一群紧贴着我们车屁股的羊。我开了车窗把身子探出去，拼命按动快门。看着一只只羊咩咩叫着，急急迈着短短的腿，大尾巴一晃一晃，拼命往前赶却怎么也跑不快的样子，可爱极了。
这么壮观的羊群，却只有一两个牧羊人骑在马上驱驰，但他的工作看来挺轻松，只是领路而已。也许季节已到，羊儿们都知道要搬家了，很自觉地配合。
再走，就进入了林子深处。羊群散入林中，和我们平行漫步。以前也曾和原始森林亲密接触，但那是在热带，眼前却是温带落叶树和针叶林，少了一份跋扈的霸气，多了一种包容的气度。林坡上不时出现小群的骆驼队，高大的骆驼背上满是牧人的家什，有时也驮着女人和孩子，缓缓向前走去。
牧人们好像都集中在这一天搬家，他们要到哪里去呢？
穿出林子，眼前豁然一亮：雪山下是一大片极为广阔的高山牧场，骤眼望去，满坑满谷，都是茵茵绿草，如丝如缎。好一派世外桃源，难怪牧人们把他们的牛羊、家当都送到这里来了。草地上已经有大群的牛羊在悠闲地吃草、漫步，或者侧卧着休憩。几顶白色帐房的上方，隐隐有炊烟升起。
当车子在树林中穿行，斑驳陆离的光线在脸上身上游移时，我已经激动不已。这时面对这块宛如镶嵌在林中的巨大绿翡翠，这样一块迦南美地，我已经无法用语言形容所见所感，所剩的只有心跳了。
中午时分到了白哈巴。这是一个图瓦村寨，一条小道贯穿其中，两边都是木楞房子，大部分都挂着某某旅馆的牌子。曾在网上看过介绍，说随着哈纳斯的旅游开发，游客的纷沓而至，图瓦人悄悄退到了白哈巴。但就眼前的情形看来，这里基本上也蜕化成一个旅游寄宿点了。
但我们到达的时候，游人稀少，气氛显得很宁静。这里的天极蓝，色调相当纯净。举起相机朝树梢上的蓝天按一下，随便都是一幅结构和色泽都不错的画面。村子旁有一条清澈的小溪，不知是否流往白哈巴界河。我们是不能越过界河的，那边是哈萨克斯坦的土地。而司机曾经好玩越过界河，他很得意这段经历，一路上讲了又讲。
附近有中国岗楼，高高飘着的五星红旗，证明这里确实是严肃的边界地区。
返回哈纳斯，入住在离哈纳斯湖和观鱼亭都比较近的科普园宾馆。我在这里见识了一座很另类的澡堂：一个直接在草地上搭起来的帐篷，上面开了天窗，连接太阳能热水器。地面除了两条湿漉漉的木板条，就是泥土和零落的湿草。想挂衣服，只能借助搭帐篷的支架了。而所谓的门，拉得再紧也有一条二十厘米的缝，完全不能挡风不用说，洗澡的时候还要时刻警惕门外有没有人走过——偏偏又只能在下午阳光最强的时候使用“澡堂”，那种感觉，实在刺激得很。
哈纳斯的夜晚，很冷很湿。我穿着拖鞋在户外站了一会儿，厚厚的袜子底都湿透了，不得不回屋去——尽管夜空的星星非常吸引！整个天幕犹如一块巨大无边的黑色天鹅绒，缀满闪闪发亮的碎钻，而且感觉如此逼近，仿佛就要扑面而来。如此浩瀚壮美的星空，城市人是没有多少福气能看到的。看一回算一回——上一次是内蒙古红花尔基，这一次更加让人赞叹——不仅银河可以看得清清楚楚，就连银河两边逸出的细小“支流”也看得明明白白。
站在这样的星空下，只有想哭或者想喊的感觉。但我最终什么也没做，只是深深深深地吸了口气。
早晨起来，见户外的水龙头边垂着一根细小的冰凌。天还是很冷，寒气仿如沁入骨髓。我们吸溜着鼻子开始登观鱼亭，不到两个小时就到达了。天气不好，已接近10点了吧，但太阳还是躲在厚密的云层后面。下山途中倒有几次见到阳光试图冲破云层的阻隔，偶尔露峥嵘，从云缝里射出丝丝缕缕的金光，照在湖面上，山麓里，霎时水面就镀了一层金光，林间也镶了一道金边。虽是浮光掠影惊鸿一瞥，但已足证登观鱼亭望哈纳斯湖是最好的，亮丽的色彩变幻让人赏心悦目——如果阳光足够好的话。
其实哈纳斯色彩最好的时候是早晨和黄昏——阳光斜斜地照在山坡上、林子里、草地上，触目所及是无所不在的金色光芒，无孔不入地渗透到哈纳斯的每个角落。那是一种很难用文字描述的光之渲染，细腻却又铺天盖地。金秋的哈纳斯，这时是如此地美不胜收。
路遇车祸·禾木晨雾
哈纳斯到禾木50公里，全是弯来绕去的山间小路，既崎岖又颠簸，而且又在修路中，不少路段只能容一辆车小心翼翼左摇右摆地穿过去。这样的路反而能让人打起精神——事实上我们在离开哈纳斯那天，遇见了一宗车祸。当时并不太清楚具体情形，只是见到几个穿制服的人在忙碌，路边有破碎的挡风玻璃以及一些染血的细碎物件。想想也知道出事了，司机判断是车子掉下了山谷——路上有明显的轮胎擦痕。但我还以为已经处理完毕了，毕竟路面还比较干净——直到几天后看到比较详细的媒体报道，才知道我们擦身而过的时候，车祸也许刚发生了几个小时。
那是一辆旅游车，也许是在躲避对面来车时打方向盘过猛，撞到山墙，反弹坠落30米深的山谷。 6死24重伤的数字，足够令媒体以“哈纳斯特大交通事故”定义之。
我们懵懂过路，没有即时得到悲惨信息，游玩的情绪也没有被打击下来。直至两天后在北屯一家清真饭馆吃晚饭，戴着暗色精致花纹白帽的回族小伙子——我以前从不知道回族的小白帽是有花纹的——知道我们从哈纳斯过来，就说：“哈纳斯出了车祸，你们知道吗？”
原来是新闻联播的报道，那就应该是很大的事情了。正怔忪回忆稀里糊涂路过的情形，手机响了。妹妹很遥远的声音说：“你干吗老关机呀？再找不到你我们要报警了。”
哈纳斯大部分地方没信号，所以我关机两天了。所谓报警我知道也只是开玩笑，家里人都习惯我定期和不定期的远游了。但此时忽然心里一惊：如果父母看了新闻联播，会不会担惊受怕了两天呢？
第一次有些严重地意识到，我可能走得太远了。不仅是人，还有心。
然而，已经走远的心，很难回来了吧。远方的风景，总是有着致命的吸引力。
禾木就是这样一个地方。
这个行程中最后最重要的一站，事实上也是一段急鼓繁弦的高潮演奏，以一个大惊叹号的姿态，让我们圆满地完成了这趟新疆之旅。
上路伊始就发现满山满谷的树林比昨天更加出彩，似乎一夜之间，秋风把树叶金红的色素尽数催开。层林尽染的风光，让人心醉神迷。忍不住要再次肯定自己所选择的时间，再晚一点的话，恐怕叶子已掉光，我们也将冷得无法忍受了——然而也是后来才知道，我们在哈纳斯逗留期间，恰好一股冷空气袭来，就连乌鲁木齐，也从仲夏跌入深秋。
禾木也是一个全由木楞房子组成的小村庄，但是规模比白哈巴大。有一所小学校，一个卫生所，还有一个边防站——我们就住在里面。村子呈长方形，两边都是桦树林，屏障一般。这里的桦树成行成列，密密麻麻，一眼看上去很像人工园林。
这里的黄昏很美，在夕阳的映照下，树林黄中带绿，草地绿中带黄，那是一种既浓郁又温暖的色彩，无比鲜亮。牛儿悠闲地吃草，牧童愉快地欢笑，村子里次第升起袅袅炊烟，马蹄声声，间或踏过耳畔。这是一个很容易让人沉静下来，并且想一直沉醉下去的地方。
而入夜，当然也是刺骨地冷，但透过隔了双层玻璃的窗子望出去，闪烁的繁星依然夺人心魄。
至于早晨，那是绝对不能浪费的了。禾木的晨雾相当有名——否则山长水远来到这里为的什么？
早晨起来，霜风凛冽。穿过村边的禾木河，就到了村子西北角的小山脚下。我们心太急，没有发现路是藏在山背后的，便从前面手脚并用地往上爬了。在带刺的灌木堆中小心翼翼攀行，有些害怕又有些刺激，这样的爬山方式，记忆中只在很小的时候试过，而现在的身手，显然不如小时灵活了。
好不容易上得山顶，一大片齐腰高的野麦田赫然出现在眼前。麦田前面是比较平坦的坡地，一群长枪短炮的色驴已经严阵以待。这确实是一个最佳角度：背后是一座大雪山，有人说那就是友谊峰——脚踏中国、蒙古、俄罗斯、哈萨克斯坦四国的神秘雪峰；正前方的山脚下，是躺在黎明中，素净如同一幅水墨画的禾木村；此刻在我们的左边，乳白色的雾正从山谷升起，慢慢地向禾木村蔓延过来。
从山上望下去，禾木村的每座房子都像一个褐色的小火柴盒，而整个村子就像一条沉睡的溪流，被包围在晨曦淡淡的蓝色中。晨雾越来越浓郁了，弥漫数公里，铺天盖地的，也带着清晨特有的淡淡蓝色，仙子一般飘渺袅娜，曼妙动人。浓雾的移动缓慢而坚执，初看似乎一件巨大的月白色纱衣，悬浮在空中不动，然而不知不觉地，就漫过了一排又一排房子……
左前方渐渐露出红光，太阳正在升起来。那是相当壮观的一幕：金色的霞光与白色的晨雾互相角力，彼此攻击对峙的结果，是相互的渗透交融。于是朝阳披上了迷朦的轻纱，而晨雾也焕发出金色的光泽，并且开始膨胀稀薄，但仍锲而不舍地蔓延着，亲吻着被太阳唤醒的村庄……
阳光穿过重重迷雾打过来，白桦林、野麦田、洁白的雪峰，还有我们的脸我们的头发，全被染成灿烂的金色。
任何人工的设计都无法媲美大自然豪迈的演出了。晨曦中宁静的禾木村，鬼斧神工的禾木晨雾，还有晨晖泛起的万丈金芒，就这样定格成新疆旅程中最感动的画面。
下山才发现，金色的太阳还未能融化木桥上、草地上铺就的晨霜。那是厚厚的一层白色立体小冰晶，形状犹如一朵朵小花。长年身居南国，连薄霜也鲜见，和这样美丽的霜花晤面的机会，我想也是可遇而不可求。
太美的风景或会让人神经麻痹，变得不那么敏感吧。南归途中，虽然也邂逅了许多碧蓝如玉的小湖泊，但已不再乍惊乍喜，只在经过乌伦古湖的时候停了一下。这个湖据称与赛里木湖并列为南北疆两大渔场，一眼望去江波浩淼，无边的芦苇在风中飘摇，倒也别有一番韵味——但也找不出更多的感觉了。
车子勉强捱到接近北屯时，终于弹尽粮绝——油表达到底线，连备用的20升油都用光了。其实这辆老爷越野车一路毛病不断，能坚持跑下来也算鞠躬尽瘁了。
就像我在最后算总帐时只有一元钱的差额一样的难得——我一开始就不幸被抽签委任为管理公共帐目者，自此每晚算帐都要花去许多时间，且每每要发动同屋的MM一起回忆白天的花项，才能补齐帐目。至于最后为什么还是差一块钱，对我来说已经成了永远的迷了，我也不想追究，反正已经吸取了一个重要教训——寸有所长，尺有所短，事实雄辩地证明我不适合从事任何与财务有关的工作，以后再与人结伴出游，打死也不能管帐了。
卡拉麦里·火烧山和五彩湾·归家
从北屯到乌鲁木齐，一路要穿过准噶尔盆地，经过卡拉麦里有蹄类野生动物保护区。其实也就是茫茫沙漠，旅途到了最后，已经不感新鲜，或者仍然新鲜，但已懒得逗留拍照。车子走了几小时，除了沙漠还是沙漠，不止一次见到野马、野驴，还有不知道是不是野生的骆驼，总算不枉走过保护区。
路上还要经过的景点是火烧山和五彩湾，已经归心似箭的司机只让我们在公路旁敷衍地拍了两张照片。所以对于火烧山和五彩湾我只得到了广义上的概念：前者是火红如烧的山峦，后者是丛生着浅青色灌木的另一种沙漠景观。 And nothing more.或有偏差，但毕竟二者不是重要景点，也就忽略不计了。
回到乌鲁木齐，开始“奢侈”。住下酒店结了车钱，我们就在司机的带领下奔赴血站，吃正宗的大盘鸡。第二天各自行动，但目标却也不约而同。阿布拉的馕、北园春瓜果批发市场的葡萄干，总是免不了的——司机托我带一些水果回广州给朋友，我于是顺带得到了额外的一份。
也没有忘记去二道桥巴扎补上一转，以及特地去买了那张《大漠情歌》。
我一个人坐在飞机上。同伴们都是一个城市的，已经早我一个小时飞走了。与来时不同，我坐的是南航的客机，而且，这次是往回飞。
这架飞机相当宽敞，座椅舒适，设备完善而先进。我面前正好是一块大屏幕，最新的MTV和电影，整整播了一路，直到午夜抵达广州。偶尔除下耳机，我会听到机舱里其他乘客欢快热闹的声音，相当熟悉的乡音。一切的一切，在在提醒我，我正回到我栖居的城市，那里土肥水润，叶茂花繁，灯红酒绿，动感无限。
但我也知道，我的心还在北疆的湖影秋光中穿梭，在大漠的驼铃声声中流连。要把它唤回，大约需要花上不短的时间，也或者，再也很难唤回……
2003.11
作者：fannylian
